smellallthesmells

[smellallthesmells]

Anubis- [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab] - A General Catalogue scent found in the category: Excolo. 

Notes: His scent is a blend of holy myrrh, storax, balsam, and embalming herbs. This bottle was purchased by myself in February of 2019. 

I wasn’t sure why I decided to review this particular blend, as all I did was open up the first container of BPAL bottles I grabbed and this one just became “the one.” But then I went back and read the blurb that is posted with its notes and realised it might be my subconscious reacting to the passed few months here on Earth. If somehow this blog post has survived into a future where you, dear reader, are not aware of what is happening in 2020, lucky you. But as it is still the mind numbing present for me I’ll fill you in: Its headline being the Covid-19 Pandemic. This year, so far, seems to be churning out one bad joke after the next. What with, Australia having been on fire, World War 3 nearly being a thing, Covid-19, Murder Hornets invading western North America, Meth Gators, and the recent emergence of large cannibalistic rats that are very angry humans aren’t eating at restaurants. Oh, and this is all before June {and to be fair, that’s not even all of it}. But, I digress, this is not why you are here. How does this all fit in to my perfume review? Well, here is the blurb:

“He Who Counts the Hearts, Jackal Ruler of the Bows, He Who Is In the Place of Embalming. Jackal-headed guardian, protector and psychopomp of Egypt’s dead, he guides souls to the underworld and holds steady the scales upon which the deceased’s heart is weighed against Ma’at’s Feather of Truth. He is the creator and master of funereal rites, He Who Opens the Mouth of the Dead, and is the sentinel that watches over the sanctity of tombs and the virtue and privacy of his charges.“

So...Death. And the one charged with caring for the Dead.

It also just so happens that this blend was one of the very first in BPAL’s vast range that I ever tried back in 2005 or so. I still have the imp’s ear 1ml vial that was gifted to me by a dear friend. The label is yellow an the name is well faded. but the essence is still apparent and oh-so-beautiful after all these years. I can’t wait for this bottle to be 15 years old.

In the bottle: A creamy scent heavy-laden with incense. When I say “creamy” I don’t mean gourmand, but more like when book pages are ancient and begin to break down and resemble vanilla’s scent. Or a caramelised resin which has gone ooey-gooey and is dripping down the walls in a temple which is only lit by a few torches. The fire flickers and shadows dance on the walls.

On my skin: Old wet scrolls and herbs, the drippy incense has lit and is burning bright. Its smoke fills the stone corridors and I can smell it envelop me. Maybe it’s not scrolls, but muslin or old dry linen that has long enshrouded the form of an ancient pharaoh perhaps. This might not be a temple....

As it dries: It’s like the herbs are encrusted in the incense. Perhaps adorning a wooden vessel left in the catacomb for its owner’s journey and safe passage. The herbs are not calling out from a modern kitchen, but from baskets in a hot market. The sweet incense smoke drapes around me like billowing silk leading me up and out of the dark tomb into the light of a setting sun sinking down into the sand....Now, where did I park my camel?

[smellallthesmells]

Third Charm-[Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent among the category Halloween 2016. Notes: Fiery red musk, luminous elemi, East Indian patchouli, champaca flower, cedar incense, ho wood, and hemlock accord sweetened with a peculiar sweet honey.

As I anxiously await the arrival of my most recent Bpal “Weenies” order to arrive, I have been digging through my collection from last year’s purchase. The autumnal scents are among my favourites; heavy in the dark musks, outdoorsy wood oils, and smokey incense notes. Mmmmmmm…Halloween smells… As i don’t live near a heavily wooded area anymore, these are quite special and hit the “homey” parts of my brain.

Today’s pick is a witchy blend that I once enchanted a whole group of friends with while on a night out.

In the bottle: Dark, sweet, smokey, a handful of unburnt incense, and somewhat sticky. The red musk, patchouli, and honey are what I can identify as the forefront of this fragrance. This is a dark apothecary with jars and boxes of ingredients for spells and charms. I can see old teakwood and an aged oriental rug lining the dusty floor. There’s not much light but a few beams with particles floating in the air shining on a vase of long dead flowers.

On my skin: still dark and sticky and very woody in the most beautiful and complex way. Someone in the apothecary has noticed my presence and subsequently lit a yellow lamp and some incense. I can see the drawers of dried herbs being opened and riffled through. Some bound flowers and plants have been gathered along with some unknown oils and thrown into a cast iron cauldron. The spell is about to be cast. I feel like this is for a hex breaking or road opening. Something is in the way, but not for long! *POOF*

As it dries: The puff of smoke still lingers in the air which is warmer now. The incense in the corner billows with vigor. I can feel the fabric of my clothes absorbing the smells around me. I’ll be smelling like this for a while. It’s comforting like my favourite witch is giving me a hug. It’s a true witch’s brew; a cup of Fiery Wall of Protection tea. I want to find this apothecary. I truly feel transported with this perfume and absolutely under a spell. I wonder if they carry any eye of newt?

[smellallthesmells]

Pumpkin Sugar-[Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent among the category Halloween 2016. Notes: Crystallized glittering shards of lightly spiced pumpkin sugar.

It’s that time of year again. The leaves have begun to change, the air is crisp and fragrant with detritus, every morning starts with a Pumpkin spice latte, and BPAL have released their WEENIES!! *ahem* Halloweenies that is...

And this year, the catalogue is as gorgeous as ever. Everything from the traditional Samhain and All Souls, to another awesome Pile of Leaves set, and some based on the Poe classic The Tell-Tale Heart.

My bank account took a hit only hours after they hit the site what with so many “foodie” scents being released this year, along with some Liliths I’ve had my eye on for a few weeks. That being said, today I have chosen to bust out one of my favorites from last year: Pumpkin Sugar! I mean, I already drink enough PSL’s per week to make any basic bitch proud, might as well smell like it too! #sorrynotsorry

In the bottle: Mmmm sweet pumpkin pie filling. Decadent and thick. Sweet and spicy. Like getting your pie ready to put into the oven and dipping your finger in just once to taste it before it bakes. MUST....NOT...DRINK...

On My Skin: OMG I can smell pie and the crust now too! It’s so sweet and sugary. Like pumpkin cookies with giant sugar crystals on the top. It’s getting warmer like its being baked. The spices are so beautiful! I feel like I am being wrapped up in a blanket of pumpkin spice and sweetness. It confuses my brain a little and makes my mouth water. if you wanna smell like autumnal food, look no further than this blend. I cant decide if this smells more like a pie, cookies or donuts. 

As it dries: The three elements I smell predominantly have come together nicely. (Sugar, pumpkin, spice) Its still sweet and lovely, just a bit tamer now. The pumpkin smell has evened out the sugar and the spice. As if the two were fighting over who would be first and pumpkin pulled them apart by the ears. The fragrance is less pie, and more pudding now. I don’t get as much crust but more the sweet pulp of the pumpkin with the sprinkling of spices and sugar on top. My husband can still smell it from across the room but isn’t offended by it. It’s strong but benevolent.

Get in loser, we’re going to Starbucks!

[smellallthesmells]

A Week On The Wrist

Last week I was on the loveliest of holidays with my husband. Once or twice a year we escape the calm and quiet of Yorkshire to experience the noise and life of London. This year, the week was for my birthday.

We left with the plan to take photos of the architecture and movement in the city. I also wanted to smell things.

Covent Garden was where I began to explore.

~My first stop was a lovely shop with flowered framed pink neon letters spelling out: “in bloom.” It was Miller Harris. I was drawn not by the outside decor, but the double row of bottles I knew to be perfume. I almost always try a perfumer’s rose scent first as a place of reference. It was lovely and wet and but not quite rich enough even after layering it with their leathery brew. I ended up choosing one that is so different from my normal path. The very last perfume I tried was Poirier d'un Soir. A heavy but not overbearing, woody, fruit scent described as “…the contrasting flavours and complex aromas of a ripe pear and its delectable possibilities. Like lights ablaze in a dusking sky…” This is a fair illustration as I get boozy sticky pear tree in the bright melting heat of the setting summer sun. I didn’t hesitate, this was the one I needed to buy.

It’s heady in that “perfume” sort of way but it doesn’t offend. It was the hottest it had been in London for 40 years, or so the papers said, and this was complimentary. It reminds me of melting pear drops on the dry down, hot and sticky-sweet, almost gourmand, but expensive.

~Continuing in Covent Garden I stopped at one of the oldest perfumers in Britain: Penhaligan’s. I had discussed one of their particular perfumes with a friend of mine and I was intrigued to experience it for myself. Their perfumes are presented in an elegant old style way- a circle of bottles on a gold trimmed glass table with a large carafe of perfume in the middle. To see them is almost as lovely as to smell them. The first I needed to try was Iris Prima- which I later purchased- inspired by a prima ballerina. It is light and delicate but not breakable. It is as a ballerina bends and twists as she dances but never falters. Graceful but bound to the earth. The background is reminiscent of point shoes, the pink silk and leather being the base for the allégro floral notes. It is a unique potion which is why I chose to purchase it this time. I can smell the costumes, the wooden stage, the classical music accompaniment, and the performance itself. As it dries, I am left a sweet powder sillage with the silk and slightly less leather undertones begging for an encore.

Along with the Iris Prima, I tried a few other scents, one of them I purchased in a roller called: Artemesia. Inspired by the Greek Goddess, Artemis- huntress and whose symbol is the moon. This is not necessarily how I would have perfumed Diana, but it is lovely nonetheless. The top is crisp, fruity and green. Like an orchard in the moonlight, it morphs into a white floral but not soapy or sharp. I can detect the violet and jasmine tea as the green begins to fade. This is the gown of Artemis before the hunt maybe? Or on a night she just wishes to walk with the beasts of the forest as kin. The green makes a return but it is as leaves on branches of a tree in summer. The wood is warm but its limbs are heavy with leaves and blooms. It dries to a fragile amber cradled in sweet resin.

~The last fragrance shop I stopped in was Diptyque. They are a Paris based company with some incredible brews-as to be expected of a French parfumerie. I’ll get straight to the one I chose. Once again, I went for something I would not have expected, but needed in the moment. After smelling their rose, and oud, and blonde tobacco perfumes, I was asked if I wanted to try their citrus range. Not wanting to miss out I agreed. L'Eau des Hespérides immediately took my fancy. It is a bitter orange with peppermint and everlasting flower. It is fresh, exciting and instantly made me smile. It reminded me of the Validation Facial spa treatment by Lush. The orange is sweet and yet holds onto the peel and its foliage. The peppermint is what tickles me the most since I have never worn it or thought to wear it before. I’m not ever really drawn to mint, but this has opened a door for me. This one smells just like a summer day and I am eager to wear it as often as possible. I want to run through a Tuscan orchard in the sun and eat ripe fruit. If you’re looking for the scent of joy in the sun, smell no further.

~In-between my hunt for summer scents, I was made aware of a brilliant event happening in the Somerset House. A Perfume Gallery. Holy shitballs! As soon as I figured out we were only 2 tube stops from this place, I grabbed my husband and practically flew there. I apologize for the lack of photos of the exhibition, but I only took what you see, and frankly, it wouldn’t do the experience justice. The gallery was created to give wearers a different perspective into creating perfumes. Ten perfumers showcase their creations in a medium that challenges how we perceive them. When you walk in, you are given a card with numbers and a space to write how each exhibit makes you feel, or what notes you think you can detect, etc. Next you are directed to the first installation. It looks like a raised square filled with black pellets and some billiard balls with cotton pads where the “8″ would be. Each ball smells the same but you are encouraged to sniff. I think I said it was “sweet-floral-fruity.” I won’t give it all away in case any of you happen upon it, the surprise is half the fun. I will say that my favourite section involved some powdered water colours and painting what you smelled. I liked it so much I bought it in the form of a scented postcard. After the first 5 exhibits, the notes were revealed and you could try them all again and compare what was written. Then repeat five more times. At the end of the trail you are invited to experience the breakdown of a famous perfume by top, heart, and base notes. You can also smell a variety of oils commonly used in historic and contemporary fragrances. If you love mystery, conceptual art, or just perfumes, this is fun for all. Even my visually dominant husband had a good time.

[smellallthesmells]

Samhain [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent among the category Halloween 2016. Notes: Truly the scent of autumn itself — damp woods, fir needle, and black patchouli with the gentlest touches of warm pumpkin, clove, nutmeg, allspice, sweet red apple and mullein.

Sometimes even in the summer I long for the harvest period. The damp leaves, cool air, and the magic Samhain brings. Last year, when I decided I was going to purchase my first “Weenies” from Bpal, that was when I knew I needed to join the forum on Bpal Madness so I could continue my obsessing and speak to other obsessors about the impending fragrance launch. It’s a great community to discuss all things Bpal and non-Bpal. There’s always a “stalking” group to watch people dream up what the Lab might bring out next. It’s fun to say the least and can help in between paychecks...or hinder depending the thread.

Obviously, if its your first Bpal Halloween, and you’ve never smelled the core scents, you’re probably going to want to smell Samhain.

In the bottle: Deep and syrupy in the autumnal sense. I can see a black potion, a damp forest, and dark spiced something...maybe a cake? maybe an ale? Somewhere in the distance a bonfire is blazing with dark hooded figures encircling, arms raised.

On my skin: I’ve approached the bonfire and one of the hooded figures offers me a chalice. The fir needle becomes more apparent but not in the “Pine-sol” or car-air-freshener way. It’s dark but sexy and I can see moonlight slightly obscured by the clouds during the ritual of which I have become apart. Something sweet creeps in. Perhaps the liquid in the cup is a warm dark cider.

As it dries: Apple spice in the woods. I can see in my mind’s eye a hedge-witch’s cottage with a wood burning stove. She is cooking soul cakes and baked apples. This is so beautiful now that it has had time to age. To be honest, I haven’t really worn this since I bought it, much preferring its darker, boozy cousin: Samhainophobia. But, I am glad I brought this out again and gave it another try. It is so gorgeous without being overpowering or head-achey. Now, where have I left my black velvet cloak and athamé?

[smellallthesmells]

Mouse Circus- [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent for the Neil Gaiman Coraline Collection. Notes: A toodle oodle of pink cotton candy noses, vanilla spun sugar fur, scattered kernels of popcorn, and a touch of polished golden wood.

All aboard the nostalgia train!

I was drawn to this scent based on its notes and my memories of making fresh popcorn in my grandparents’ kitchen. Often my grandfather would get out this contraption that had a heavy base which could heat air hot enough to pop kernels of corn. It was loud. But few things were less satisfying at a young age than pouring the kernels into the heated base and awaiting the explosions that soon followed. It would take a few batches to fill the large barrel sized tins we stored the popcorn and it always made the house smell amazing. This perfume takes me back there. To the point where I remember being barefoot standing on the wooden stool and pressing myself up onto the kitchen counter in order to get a better view of the cooking corn. It felt at the time what I can only describe as a bit sadistic now. Though it wasn’t, I felt evil for what I did to those kernels.

In the bottle: Popcorn, but in one of those red and glass carts that also held cones of candy floss to sell. I can see the wooden wheels made of oak? Maple maybe? I think the cotton candy is blue.

On my skin: Warm popcorn kernels. Shiny polished wood like the bannister I used to defiantly slide down when no one was watching.  A tuft of candy floss floats by. Mice begin to scurry from a dark corner. Snatching a kernel. Popcorn seems to be caramel coated. Perhaps the candy floss is beginning to melt. 

As it dries: The kernels have popped. I'm taken to an old theatre. I can see a stage. Smell the wooden chairs and carpeted floors. I am eating sweets that have somehow fallen to the bottom of my popcorn bucket. Sugary and covered in a thin layer of butter and salt. The mice are fluffy and scurrying to and fro across the stage. Encore! Encore!

...the very end. The show is over. The clapping has died. The crowd has gone. I get up from my seat and exit the theatre eager to return for another performance.

[smellallthesmells]

Cherry Sugar Cookie- [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent for the November 2016 BPAL Los Angeles toy and food drive. Notes: N/A 

This will be the first time I write a review in this particular platform with first impressions. I was ever so lucky to come across this via a kindly person in a Facebook group. This scent was released in such a limited way, that it was almost impossible to get unless two things: 1. You lived in the area and were directly able to participate in the toy and food drive. OR 2. You knew of a lovely Bpal “fairy” who was able to donate for you, get the perfume, and send it your way. All of the toys and food donated went to Spark of Love and Burbank Temporary Aid Center. 

This is, I believe, an annual event, and another of the ways Bpal makes the world a better place via perfume oils.

I am currently obsessed with anything containing cherry notes, so I jumped at the chance to snag this beauty. The nice lady I bought it from even sent me some lovely imps and treats that reminded me of home along with this bottle.

In the bottle: The first thing I smell, is warm brown sugar. Like when my grandmother was making cookie dough and she was melting brown sugar and stirring it in a bowl with flour and milk. On second inhale, the cherries begin to ooze in. Thick and sweet like syrup but not medicinal. I can see warm snickerdoodles being taken out of the oven and sprinkled with dried cherries. I can see the cracks on the tops of the cookies and the cherries sliding off onto the hot cookie sheet slightly melting them. GIMME!

On my skin: the cherry comes through a bit more to the point where I can smell their skins. The cookies are on the cooling wrack across the room and they fill the kitchen with their warm, inviting fragrance. This is beautifully gourmand. I can see the cherries sitting in the syrup, but its as if they are being boiled down on the hob. Caramelized. 

As it dries: I can detect a slight amoretto or almond paste coming through. And I’m getting true vanilla extract mixed with a cinnamon-brown sugar base. A vanilla pod wrapped around an old cinnamon stick simmering in milk. As it warms I am reminded of a Yankee Candle called: Home Sweet Home. Actually, as I write this I am taken back to the Cracker Barrel of my childhood. Not the restaurant itself, but the country store attached. The wooded floors and walls, rocking chairs, the knick-knacks, hand lotion, toys, old style candies, and gifts one pick up to make their home feel more rural. It’s still around today, but not as special as when it was exclusive to the southern states. This makes me more nostalgic than I thought it would. And hungry. Anyone wanna send me snickerdoodles and dumplings?

[smellallthesmells]

Fairy Wine- [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent for the Neil Gaiman Stardust Collection. Notes: An ethereal vintage, steeped with dandelion, honey, and red currants.

One of my favourite things about BPAL, is their commitment to helping the world through perfume. Very often they will release scents and collections with the proceeds going to various charities. The Stardust collection is based on the novel by Neil Gaiman of the same name. It’s an incredibly fantastic story about love, magic, and a fallen star. Each bottle purchased from the collection has its proceeds go to the Comic Book Legal Defense Fund, which works to preserve and protect the First Amendment rights of the comics community.

I was drawn to this scent for a few reasons. First, I am huge fan of the Lab’s “wine” and “fizzy” notes. Second, I was looking for a scent that I could wear in the spring and summer that wasn’t heavy or too dark. Third, uhhh..duh, Fairies? Yes, please. It’s everything I wanted and more.

In the Bottle: I get the sweet and amber honey dripping over a fizzy drink of some kind. I would definitely describe this as ethereal. It’s like I have a flute of champagne that has honey dripping over the edges and tiny flowers floating on the top. Though, I won’t, I want to drink this.

On my skin: the red currants have bubbled to the top colouring the drink red. The golden honey holds it together keeping it from being sickly and the fizzyness is foaming at as if it has just been poured from a freshly uncorked bottle. It is so soft and delicate but not in a traditionally “perfumey” way. I can detect the dandelion starting to germinate in the blend. Like a flower pushing through a soft layer of snow.

As it dries: I can see myself drinking this on a spring morning in a field of dandelions. It’s still bubbly and sweet, fruity, and the honey has settled now. I want to wear a long flowing light gown on the edge of a wood. It begins to turn slightly green as if the flowers are fresh cut and put in a vase of this fragrant potion. The floral notes keep blooming but never turn soapy. I feel like a wood nymph at a festival of magical creatures and kin dancing in a meadow. Excuse me while I go put on my wings and cover myself in glitter.

[smellallthesmells]

An Interlude After Sake- [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent among the category Novel Ideas for Secret Amusements among the 2017 Lupercalia Release. Notes: Fir needle and white tea with crushed fresh ginger, white amber, apricot and oakmoss.

This being my first year of purchasing Bpal, any of the seasonal releases will have been my first until the next Halloween. I was teeming with anticipation for this year’s Lupercalia perfumes because over the passed few months I have fallen in love with the Lab’s honey and leather notes. I know what you’re thinking…uhhh ma’am, neither of those notes are in this perfume. Yes, I am aware of that, and this particular scent was an impulse buy on a later order just before the “Lupers” came down. Don’t worry, I will get to all the leather and honey fragrances at some point.

If you’re not familiar with the ancient holiday of Lupercalia, here is a little history: LUPERCALIA. The perfumes are based on this festival of fertility and spring. This one, specifically, a painting of two lovers in one of many sexual illustrations Bpal listed as such:

“++ NOVEL IDEAS FOR SECRET AMUSEMENTS

A limited edition Salon series celebrating the joy, humor, playfulness, and thrill of sexual intercourse through scent interpretations of Japanese erotic art.”

I am so glad I decided to grab this one, as I don’t normally go for “fresher” scents and usually stick to the incense/warm/earthy/sweet types. Honestly, who doesn’t want to smell like sweet-sweet-loooooooove? 

In the bottle: The fir needle is at the very top like a child clambering for attention, yet being ignored. We know you’re there, get back in your seat please. I can smell the white tea mixing well with the ginger and along with the fir, it creates something completely new. It’s fresh and sweet but not traditionally western as if I am sitting in a Japanese tea house with rice paper walls, bamboo woven floors, and a maple tree just outside being tussled by a soft breeze. It’s elegant and I impatiently apply it to my wrists.

On my skin: The oakmoss and fir needle dance with the apricot and it’s hypnotizing. The apricot breaks away and begins to take center stage making this gorgeously fruity but not cheap or gourmand. I am slightly reminded of peach rings. It moves on to a sensual fragrance as it continues to mature and it matches the greenery and sun I can see from my bedroom window.

As it dries: This has taken me back inside the Japanese tea house. I can see someone performing a tea ceremony like a ballet. I can feel the heat of the cup as I pick it up and bring it closer to my lips. I can smell a fresh, perfectly brewed green peach tea. The ginger note waltzes passed in a pale pink and white kimono. She joins me for the tea but does not linger long enough to overpower it. I wore this outside on my way to do some shopping earlier and I could smell it every time a breeze passed. It wafts like the steam from a hot cup of tea. Some perfumes become what I would describe as “puffy” or “pillowy” and grow around my person. This one is like incense smoke. It lifts and ribbons and billows seductively. Now I need a silk kimono and some tea.

[smellallthesmells]

Dead Leaves, Honeyed Patchouli and Champaca Blossom [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition scent among the category Pile Of Leaves 2016. Notes: N/A.  This bottle is from a batch made in 2016 among the Halloweenies Release. 

Throughout the year, BPAL has several limited edition releases. They do some regularly- ie: Halloween, Yule, Lupercalia. And sometimes something will happen in the media or they will attend an event and they will spontaneously issue perfumes coincidentally. [For example- Nasty Woman perfume released during the 2016 presidential debates and re-released for the Women’s March, or more recently, exclusive Drag Queen scents for RuPaul’s Drag Con 2017]

By far, their most anticipated seasonal release of the year are those during Halloween also known as “Weenies” for short. I am apart of Bpal Madness, their large community forum, and as early as late July, members begin to buzz about the upcoming autumnal fragrances. 

This passed Weenies edition was my first experience with a seasonal drop from Bpal and I was ecstatic to say the least. It might seem silly to be geared up for perfumes, but anything smelly and having them be Halloween themed...yes please!

I bought so many....we’ll just say that it was enough to get free international shipping....my poor poor bank account. I was most surprised and thrilled about a section called: Pile Of Dead leaves. Oh. shit. My favourite perfume company is making scents based on my favourite smell ever. Detritus. Growing up in a house that borders a state park, the odor of leaves piling up during the fall is beyond nostalgic and comforting to me. I remember being small with my grandfather raking the leaves in the front yard onto a huge piece of canvas before dragging in to the back yard before dumping them into a compost pile. I loved to hide in the pile and have him drag me with the leaves, tumbling me out along with the heap. He used to wear a beret and smoke a pipe back then. 

There was no way I was going to pass up reliving that time via perfume. I purchased 5 vials from P.O.D.L. This one being my favourite and the one closest to the essence of my autumnal childhood. 

In the Bottle- Musky crunchy leaves. It’s warm and borderline incensey, but the musky dead leaves note is what shines through. It’s stunning and I immediately want to roll around in it. I can see a pair of red leather hiking boots I used to wear stomping down a trail in the park behind my childhood home.

On my skin- It’s slightly green as if the leaves have fallen back up to their previous branches. There is a sweet floral note at the top that I can only guess it is the champaca blossom. The musky note creeps up from underneath and is rounded off by the sweet patchouli. The perfume is brown and I can see my grandfather’s brown jacket and matching beret. 

As it dries- The scent has become less heavy and dried to a cleaner musk. I still get dead plants but not repellent at all. It’s autumnal and complex. It’s now the fragrance of my clothes after climbing out of the ton of leaves. The after-crunch. But it’s as if the fronds that aren’t quiet completely dried, still slightly green. I know right now it’s spring outside, but I want to put on my leather boots and jump back into that mountain of leaves.

[smellallthesmells]

Anne Bonny  [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A General Catalogue scent among the category Bewitching Brews. Notes: Indonesian red patchouli, red sandalwood, and frankincense. This bottle was purchased in the early autumn of 2016.

Inspired by a most infamous, strong, independent, woman, and female pirate of the 18th century, Anne Bonny is a scent to be reckoned with. After I purchased the Unicorns from Bpal, I spoke to a few friends about putting in a group order. They smelled Blood [tee-hee] and the Unicorns I carried, which was enough to make them want in with me. I was going through the Lab’s catalogue for hours a day trying to decide which ones to order. This is not for the faint of heart. The Lab has HUNDREDS of fragrances to choose from, in dozens of categories. You could be there for weeks. I ended up creating a Pinterest board in order to organise and remember which oils I favored. So. Many. Choices.

One of the first that caught my eye was Anne Bonny. Firstly, I love patchouli. The sandalwood and frankincense are a giant bonus. I MUST KNOW WHAT THIS SMELLS LIKE. 

In the bottle: woody, and a bit like wet leather. Though there isn’t any leather note present, I smell what I can only describe as a hip pouch where one might carry a flask of rum. The patchouli is the dominant note and it being a red Indonesian variety, it is heavier and more vibrant. Less hippy.

On my skin: I can smell the ship this pirate sailed. I can see her standing boldly at the helm commanding her crew. A faint hint of sea spray creeps into my nose, somehow present among the mixing of the oils. I can smell her clothes and the old wood of the ship. The sweetness has died down and I am reminded a bit of President’s Hat by Lush’s Gorilla Perfume. It is an old redolence, but not offensively fusty.

As it dries: The woodiness has matured beautifully. The frankincense has come to the front. It’s as if Anne has retired to the Captain’s chambers. She is sat at a giant mahogany table with charts and navigating instruments deliberately scattered about. The smell of the carpet makes an appearance. The ship is closer to land as a slightly earthiness is present as well. This perfume makes me wants to wear brown and drink rum.

[smellallthesmells]

Blood [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A General Catalogue scent among the category Bewitching Brews. Notes: Essence of dragon’s blood resin, thickened with myrrh and cherry, with a trickle of clove. This bottle is from a batch made in approx 2006. 

I came across this bottle in the spring of 2015. One of my very best friends, a truly magical lady who actually introduced me to Bpal wayyyyyyyy back when, and I were in her kitchen enjoying some of her homemade tea. This is worth noting because she lives in my home state of Delaware and I have been living in the UK essentially since 2012. It is a rare occasion when i get to see her outside of my phone or laptop screen, and when it happens, we make the most of it. Through some horrible unforeseen circumstances, I was forced to leave the home my husband and I lived in and return to the US for what was, in the long run, a short time, but in that moment agonizing. At least I was with Amy. We were enjoying some Firey Wall of Protection tea, eating strawberries drenched in chocolate balsamic and lavender pepper, around a cauldron of burning dragon’s blood. If you arent sure what dragon’s blood is, it is a red resin obtained from several different kind of plants. It has been used for centuries as varnish, medicine, incense and dye. When it is burned, it bubbles bright red hence the name. I became fascinated with the smell that emanates from the resin as it is earthy and yet deceptively floral. It reminds me of a sweet smoky rose. Amy, went upstairs to her cabinet of wonders and brought down a selection of her Bpal bottles. I remember smelling Blood, Dragon’s claw, and Dragon’s musk. All containing dragon’s blood in some concentration. I’m sure there was more, but my memory is selective at this present time. She generously told me to choose two to take with me, as the ones we were sampling we apart of the General Catalogue [GC for short], and she could replace them at any time. My first choice was Blood.

In the bottle, the fragrance smells deep, dark, sticky, and red. It’s incensey, and a touch smoky. I can smell all the notes well in the aged serum. First, the dragon’s blood, then the cherry, myrrh, and in the back, the clove is present. Not shouting, but rather at the back of the class defiantly smoking a cigarette with his boots on the desk and sunglasses tipped down. Its there, but too cool to sit with the rest of the group.

On my skin- Mmmmm, smoky cherry. Sweet and sticky with the dragon’s blood keeping it in check. I can see a pagan ritual with three red heads around a smoky cauldron drinking dark wine from a silver chalice. The sillage is beguiling. I have only a used the lid of the bottle to add a drop to my wrist and as I type the fragrance dances around me. Not in a way that offends or overpowers, but in a way that you want to join in the waltz. It’s almost romantic, but too gothic to be frilly. Maybe more like a tango between Mortisha and Gomez. 

As it dries, the myrrh stands out a bit more pairing well with the dragon’s blood. The cherry has moved to the back of the room, now making out with the clove who looks up from the encounter as I notice them. The smell is ancient. It’s like a recipe from ages ago carved into a rock somewhere. Warm and still dark. I love that when I wear this, it has staying power. I only ever apply it once and I can still smell it hours later. I feel fierce and magical. It takes me to Amy’s house. Filled from floor to ceiling with sages, books, crystals and brews I can only be jealous of. It’s my favourite accessory to a black outfit.

EDIT: According to Facebook, the day I described happened exactly two years ago.

[smellallthesmells]

The Virgin And The Unicorn [Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab]- A Limited Edition perfume oil sold during the 2016 Art of the Unicorn Archive. Notes: The palest of green mosses, mist rose, white pear, white incense, white sandalwood, and a hint of vanilla.

I can’t remember the exact date I was introduced to Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab [BPAL or bpal for short], but it wasn’t until years later that I was able to make my first purchase and dive into a unique world of bespoke handmade perfume oils. To try and describe BPAL is a daunting task itself, as these perfumes are like none other. They range from the lightest florals and delicate teas, to the deepest darkest rich leathers, musks and even loam. If you want a perfume that mimics something like graveyard dirt, old books, fresh birthday cake, or something that speak of macabre hollywood and famous authors or gothic themes, look no further than these purveyors of olfactory experiences. 

I had been following BPAL on various forms of social media and I remember being on the train last summer coming home from work and seeing the launch of the Art of the Unicorn Archive scents. Well, that was it. It was my two favourite things rolled into one. Unicorns and perfume. As soon as I entered my flat and threw my bag down, I was on my laptop in a flash reading all of the fragrance notes for each title associated with a Unicorn tapestry or painting. Because this was a Limited Edition group, purchasing a small 1 ml vial (known as an imp to those in the bpal community) was not an option. So “blind buying” was my only alternative. It is a risk some are not willing to take since the shipping costs to the UK from Bpal’s California hq are somewhat steep. I read over the list and chose a few based on notes I assumed I would love. It was uncertain, but all of the perfumes I chose I ended up loving. Bonus!

I decided to write about this particular perfume first, not because it was my first Bpal I ever wore or owned, but because of all the ones I do own, this one I kept coming back to over and over again. And, it being one of my first purchases, it holds an extra special place as it ushered in an era for me of an ever growing obsession with the company and the community of its followers.

The Virgin and The Unicorn in the bottle is green and sweet. Now I am saying this 8 months after its purchase, and it is important to note that these perfumes are essential oils and therefore will deepen and age with time. The white pear note is at the top and reminds me of eating a fresh pear while on a picnic or in the woods. On my skin I immediately smell the white incense mix with the pear while the moss cradles the scent. I don’t get too much of the rose, but it may be the misty cloud that is the mid note. The vanilla is definitely the base note and stays earthy rather than sickly. Like a whole vanilla pod would be were it kept with the incense. The perfume takes me to a beautiful tent in a sunny meadow. Large soft pillows, oriental rugs, burning incense, and fresh fruit in silver bowls abound the scene. I can almost see myself in the gown the virgin wears as she strokes the magical beast. Its youthful but not sordid. It’s elegant and yet fresh but just earthy enough and in no way overpowering. The sandalwood note is present enough to make me think my grandmother would have liked this fragrance. I may like it so much because I can smell both her, and myself in this scent.

After some time on my wrist, it smells like white and green smoke billowing and wrapping around itself like vines around a trellis. The incense note mixing with the vanilla is what lingers the most. This is truly an enchanting representation of the painting or tapestry that inspired the scent. 

[smellallthesmells]

Wrist-sniffing wench

From a young age, I have always been a very scent dominated person. My earliest memories of waking with my grandmother and grinding fresh coffee beans for my grandfather’s morning cup. The smell of her opening up the spice cupboard would send gentle waves of cinnamon, all spice, paprika, nutmeg and sugar over my toddler sized body. The opening of the foil coffee bag filled my nose with warm, dark, french blended beans, and the grinder itself turning it to a softer, more palatable version. I didn’t like the taste until I was close to twenty, but as a three-year old, this morning ritual was one I insisted on participating in just for the smells.

Most every family member had a distinct scent, but it was my grandparents with whom I associated the most comforting fragrances first. My grandfather wore something like Old Spice, I cant say for sure, but I know it was a warm masculine musk combined with the starch my grandmother used to iron his shirts and pipe tobacco. My grandmother always smelled of sandalwood and white musk. Though she once visited a perfumery in New Orleans and when she came back, it is said I told her she smelled of “noodles.” I still come across perfumes and soaps that remind me of her here and there. 

My first own fragrance was that of Tinkerbell cosmetics. A bright pink package with a fairy on it that was sold at Strawbridges and Clothier usually with a nail polish and compact along with the cologne. I wish I could properly bring it back to my mind, but I only remember what it smells like when I come across something else which is close. If anyone out there has it, I would love to smell it again. I am told a certain BPAL perfume is similar, so after i get ahold of it, i will review it here and compare it with my memory.

I have begun this blog for a place to jot down my love stories and ideas about the world of fragrance. It is an art that is under appreciated and held hostage by marketing campaigns. My happy place is a story-telling sniff. I don’t plan to make this more than it is. I am just a brain attached to a nose. Someday I wish to return to a perfume house I visited in Paris some years ago and create something. I also wish to source raw ingredients and build a perfume from the ground up. For now, I will appreciate the artistry of others and smell amazing.