#105mm f1.4

[siga10604991]

桜はいいものです。

[piotrtymcio]

Julia

Canon EOS R6, 105mm F1.4 DG HSM | Art 018

[EN] Julia on a couch at Onegog in Gdańsk. Lately, I've been a bit disorganized in creating new projects, but I think it's time to get back on track.

[PL] Julia na kanapie w Onegogu w Gdańsku. Ostatnio jestem lekko zdezorganizowany w tworzeniu nowych projektów ale czas się chyba za to zabrać.

[bbllens]

Art 105mm F1.4 DG HSM BBL

[terrilicious]

Shuttercount 5dmiii

SHUTTERCOUNT 5DMIII HOW TO

Off the top of my head I didn’t know a specific answer, but I was aware that Canon makes it tricky and it would most likely involve using some third-party software.

SHUTTERCOUNT 5DMIII HOW TO

It's up to you if it's worth that extra money, what features mean a lot to you and what don't.I had an email come in from a reader asking if I knew how to find out the shutter count for a Canon 5D Mark III. There's also a point of diminishing returns in cameras where you're paying a lot more for slight improvements in certain features. There are times it's worth upgrading, and this might be one of them. I think any camera is a good one if you get good at using it. The outer points are better when you understand how to pick contrast for them to grab, too. From there, if you don't want to focus-recompose, you can always crop (most print / web uses of photos aren't going to be that demanding). I'm amazed with what mine will pick focus on even in terrible light, especially when a lot of people bag it. The centre point is particularly good, so if it's very low light start with that. Some people froth on having more, but it's very capable. You could always start going with the 70D and see how you like it.Īlso, a note on the focus points of the 5D / 6D system. There's advantages and disadvantages to both setups, it's just a matter of what you think you'd use more. Either as a failsafe, or say you're shooting some sort of interview work in a more controlled setting, having two vid cams set up makes it easy to cut between them during a shoot. The 70D is a great camera too, and having a back up 650 on you isn't such a bad thing. Usually I'll take a small prime with me too, f1.4 or something like that to make up for the 24-105's f4 in really low light. It would be nice to have an f2.8 but for me the IS makes up for that - not totally in low light, but the amount it improves your handheld video work is not to be understated. It balances well on the camera, it's pretty sturdy, sharp enough (there are better lenses but again, 99% of the time that difference isn't awesomely noticeable), most of all it covers all of the focal lengths you'll typically need. Throw a system zero follow focus and a rode videomic and you've got a very robust kit.Īs for a lens, the Canon 24-105mm ticks about every box for me. 5Dii delivers admirably on video on it's own. Two, nice pictures (not an issue with any camera really) and great video. For me, weather sealing and a strong body, since I knock the shit outta my cameras and they get dirty all of the time. I have a list of needs that I go for first, everything after that is a bonus. Not that the extra fancy stuff is bad, it can help, but in 99% of situations you won't need it. I think being technically good with your gear (which comes with time) reduces the need for 1000 focus points and all that jazz, because you learn to work with what you've got. I can change any setting on mine in the pitch black, I can take lenses off with my eyes closed, etc etc etc. More important than the specs half of the time are knowing how to work and how to work your camera. Honestly, whatever camera you have, you can make it work. In a lot of ways, the 6D is a better camera.That said, I don't think I've ever felt limited by the 5D. well, whatever's going really), and use a 5Dii. I'm a journo who does a fair bit of tog work (Everything from mag features to. If you plan on using 6D with Tamron 24-70 you should first test that combo, being that the mentioned lens is a third party product (not that I have anything against using 3rd party stuff) designed a few years before 6D so there may be some compatibility issues and the focusing speed could be affected. Other than that the only times I get shots with missed focus is when I do something wrong or the subject moves more than I expected after I recompose (which has nothing to do with the AF system on 6D). Protests are like any other assignment and 6D could only be limited when shooting fast action sports where its frame rate (4.5 frames per second) is a limiting factor and could cause you to miss a decisive shot (compared to 14fps on 1Dx that does not miss a thing). I use center AF point and recompose and also use Servo with back button focusing. I use 6D for photojournalism work on daily basis (mostly with Canon 24-70 and 70-200) and it's AF is fast and precise, although it is limited to 11 points.

[alexdrogers]

isaac jones jr. photographed by @alexdrogers

[nelunderson]

“ Abandoned portrait　1/11” 　 　

[monicareconstructed]

Sigma 105mm F1.4 ART 龍睬崴 by 林 大翔

[siga10604991]

花手水

EOS1DX2+SIGMA 105mm F1.4 DG HSM | Art 

[thephoblographer]

You'll Really Love These Manual Focus Lenses!

Slow down.

Very few things excite this staff like manual focus lenses. They help us feel connected to the fact that we’re taking a photo. But they also force us to work harder to get a better image. Some folks think manual focus lenses are a waste of time. But, they force you to take the time to compose an image in a different way. Check out these fantastic manual focus lenses. (more…)

[justclik-ltd]

Best Sigma Lens Under £500 In 2021 | Leeds | UK

Best Sigma Lens Under £500 In 2021 | Leeds | UK

1. Sigma 30mm F/1.4 DC DN Contemporary Lens (Sony E) This 30mm f/1.4 DC DN Contemporary Lens from Sigma is designed for use with APS-C-format Sony E-mount mirrorless cameras. The bright f/1.4 maximum aperture benefits working in low-light conditions and also affords extensive control over depth of field for using selective focus techniques. Also, a Super Multi-Layer Coating has been applied to…

[bbllens]

Art 105mm F1.4 DG HSM BBL

[orange-moka]

「BOKEH-MASTER」でボケ写真を楽しもう♪

ブログを更新しました！！ 「BOKEH-MASTER」でボケ写真を楽しもう♪

シグマ Art 105mm F1.4 DG HSMでボケ写真を撮ろう！

「BOKEH-MASTER」の異名を持つ、SIGMAの単焦点レンズ 単焦点レンズと言いながらも、重さは「1645g」とヘビー級 レンズフィルタの径もφ105mmと、単焦点レンズとは思えないほどの大きさ ^^; だけど・・・ そこから映し出される写真は、、、素晴らしい ♪

カメラ：Nikon Z7 レンズ：SIGMA Art　105mm F1.4 DG HSM

カメラ：Nikon Z7 レンズ：SIGMA Art　105mm F1.4 DG HSM

カメラ：Nikon Z7 レンズ：SIGMA Art　105mm F1.4 DG HSM

(more…)

[pix4japan]

undefined

French Hill Park (フランス山公園) near Motomachi-Chukagai Station in Yokohama, Japan.

Video: Canon M50 + Sigma 16mm F1.4 DC DN Stills: Pentax K-1 II + Pentax-D FA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

[winsten-photography-21]

Camera used :

Sony ILCE-7RM3 105mm F1.4 DG HSM | Art 018

Link - https://pascal-chapuis.format.com/

Model - Luna

[nelunderson]

“ Abandoned portrait　11/11” 　 　

[lucadenardophotography]

Lenti Vintage per Mirrorless Sony A7(xxx) - Parte 1

In molti mi chiedono quali attrezzature fotografiche uso quando scatto e quali sono le soluzioni tecniche che adotto con la mia fotografia. Premessa: da oltre 3 anni ho sposato il mondo Mirrorless, dopo aver abbandonato il mondo DSLR (avevo Nikon). Nello specifico uso una Sony A7II che adoro e che se mai dovessi sostituirla, prenderei ancora lo stesso modello (visto il costo estremamente contenuto per un corpo Full Frame che è un trattore meraviglioso). Come seconda macchina uso una Sony a6000, una APSC, che mi porto dietro ovunque per la sua compattezza e la sua velocità.

In entrambe i casi, sono due corpi macchina perfetti per me visto che scatto esclusivamente con lenti vintage e quindi non necessito in alcun modo di tutte quelle features aggiuntive che i modelli più recenti offrono.

Il passaggio dal mondo DSLR a quello mirrorless è stato assolutamente indolore, sebbene quando feci il salto ero particolarmente preoccupato nel dover abbandonare il mirino ottico per quello elettronico. La scelta non fu mai più azzeccata di così...

All'epoca mi ritrovai a vendere dunque il mio vecchio corredo DSLR Nikon, ma innamorato del mondo ottico Nikkor, decisi di tenere tutte le lenti, anche su suggerimento del venditore, visto che da quelle lenti non avrei ottenuto un corrispettivo economico interessante dalla loro vendita.

Mi ritrovai dunque a tenere un Nikon AIS 85mm f2, un Nikon AIS 105mm f2.5, un Nikon 50mm AFS G f1.4 il cui motore di messa a fuoco automatico era bruciato. Lenti che ancora uso e dalle quali non mi separerò mai.

Come ho risolto la fase di transizione, considerando che da li a pochi giorni sarei partito per Cuba con l'intenzione di realizzare un libro su Cuba?

Ho acquistato un anello di conversione Nex-Nikon, la versione G con anello per diaframma, così da poter utilizzare anche le lenti Nikon AF (non dotate di anello diaframma).

Casualmente optai per la marca K&F, produzione tedesca, che a confronto della Novoflex ha sempre mantenuto costi più che accettabili, dimostrandosi nel tempo affidabile, precisa e veramente ben fatta. Per chi fosse interessato, fate attenzione a non acquistare la versione normale (ovvero solo per lenti Pre AI, AI e AIS) nel caso prevediate di riciclare anche lenti più moderne AF dal mondo Nikkor; non potrete controllarne il diaframma.

Fine parte 1