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sgiandubh · 11 months

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Do you have any secret tips for restaurants or cafés for a trip to Paris?

Dear Paris Anon,

I am happy and amused you ask me this question. Happy, because I have been calling Paris home for six years: that means there are places where I was madly kissing a beautiful (and cruel) boy from Bastia, places where I walked at night drunk as a boiled owl with people who are still in my life, places where I regularly went shopping or having an endless coffee with friends and places I was entrusted with, like precious jewels. Amused, because to be honest, Paris is probably the last French destination I could think of for an enjoyable week-end en amoureux (I suppose you want to go as a couple?), right now: it is overpriced as hell (the Olympics are round the corner), dirty and seedy (I was shocked, last time I visited and Manu Macron, my old acquaintance of yore, spoke about parking all the homeless outside of town during the Games 'for aesthetic reasons' - the boy never had a sense of humor, trust me on this one).

I shall give you 5 restaurants and 5 cafés (oh God, why didn't you ask me about Bangkok, instead?). Many of them are on the Left Bank (all of my addresses were there, simply because the closer to the university, the better).

Five restaurants: as it happens in Rome (where the gap is truly tragic), I will try and recommend places where locals go. You will find a menu in English everywhere, but at least try the holy trinity of bonjour, l'addition (the check) et merci. All the Parisian waiters are sourer than the Politburo and insolent as highway robbers, but do not be deterred by their manners. Order away.

Le Relais de Venise - son entrecôte (271 Bd Pereire, 75017). It is not in the center. They do not take reservations. You will be met with a long line of people patiently waiting (Seinfeld style) to get in. They have a minimal set menu (which is always a very good sign: https://relaisdevenise.com/menus/set-menu.php). The waitresses are kind and dressed like 1920's maids. It will be the damn best entrecôte-frites you've ever had (their sauce is a secret). Nothing changed there since 1959. Double check opening times and plan accordingly: you will need a taxi and plenty of time ahead. Almost a bargain for its stellar performance. The London one is a sad spin off.

Le Soufflé (36 rue du Mont Thabor, 75001). An original choice, but oh so good! They only cook soufflés (not exactly a pudding, but a pudding angels must have on a daily basis). Very reasonably priced for Paris (set menus at 40 and 55 euros - https://www.lesouffle.fr/bienvenue/home/menu/). If you want to eat à la carte, I recommend le soufflé Henri IV (cheese soufflé with chicken & mushrooms sauce) : it is heaven.

La Jacobine (59-61 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006). You will find tourists in this one, it is always full. Service is impeccable. Do not bother with Le Procope round the corner: it used to be one of my haunts, but this is over. The best soupe à l'oignon (onion soup, notoriously hard to cook) I ever had (yes, they still add white wine!). I would also recommend the magret de canard sauce aux cèpes (duck breast with a porcini mushrooms sauce). I could not find a decent menu, but that should give you an idea - they don't have a website (https://eater.space/la-jacobine). Very reasonably priced, too - and very, very good.

Chez Julien (1, rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 Paris). This is one of my mum's favorites. It is open only in the evenings, but it is an excellent choice if you want to call it a night, because it has service continu (all night long, wow!). It is more expensive - this is, after all, the Right Bank, so expect prices to go drastically up. This is the only option serving wonderful breakfasts, so I beg you: have breakfast in town at least once, Paris hotels tend to do it on the sad and sorry side (https://www.chezjulien.paris/en/home#menu-en). Pair anything you pick with a glass of Pouilly fumé white wine (it goes with anything, it is that magically good).

Money is no object? Entice the guy to take you at (I am torn, here, to be honest) La Tour d'Argent (19 Quai de la Tournelle, 75005). It is very expensive (like VERY), but it is worth every penny (https://tourdargent.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/LTDA-SEPTEMBRE-EN.pdf). You must (it's an order!) order the canard au sang (you will find it on the menu under the entry Duckling Frédéric Delair and it is outrageously priced). But you will never have a chance to see the table show anywhere else (it is served in two times: first the fillet and then the legs and it uses a sort of Medieval contraption, to get the blood out for the sauce) - just a specialty from Normandy, you will not find in Rouen anymore. It is divine. They have been there since 1583. What are you waiting for? (for a less break the bank option, try Le Grand Véfour, near the Louvre - google it, it will take forever to explain why).

Four cafés and a salon de thé (tea parlor) : all are haunts of mine. In every single one of them something very personal happened to me. Consider yourself lucky. On a more practical side, all of them double as excellent lunch options, for a fraction of what you would spend in a restaurant. :)

Chez Carette (4 Pl. du Trocadéro, 75016, but also Place des Vosges, with a nod to C). You will have an exceptional choice of anything you could think of and the same Roaring Twenties atmosphere as in the Relais de Venise restaurant. The chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) is almost perfection (do NOT go to Angelina, on the rue de Rivoli, that is another favorite which went south and not in a good way). The best macarons you will find North of Saint Jean de Luz's Maison Adam (where the story of macarons began in earnest). This is Someone's favorite, but then he always was a Right Bank purist. Service is old school, which means supremely kind, if only a bit on the slow side: you are in France, soak it in!

Les Deux Magots (6 Pl. Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006). On the Left Bank in the publishing houses district. This is my second favorite (there is a first favorite) and you will likely find me on the heated terrace with a cigarette and a newspaper, if I were there. Service is appalling, but you should not mind, I have warned you. Reasonably priced for what and where it is. Breakfasts are mediocre, but still enjoyable and lunch/dinner menus are typical brasserie fare - you are not there for the food, you are there to cosplay Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir and act intellectual and sophisticated and have endless talks about the world's destiny (https://lesdeuxmagots.fr/en/breakfast-menu/). If nature calls, head downstairs with an air of intrinsic superiority and don't forget to pay the grumpy dame pipi (toilet lady), who will give you what you need and look at you like you are the scum of the Earth. Always makes me laugh.

Le Café de l'Epoque (2 Rue du Bouloi, 75001). On the Right Bank, at the end of one of the most beautiful passages couverts (glass-roofed passageways) of Paris. Again, you are there for the supremely dreamy atmosphere, I can only fail to describe. Look on the map for all of these passageways and then get lost in the maze of stamp shops, bookstores, taxidermists and God only knows what else you could think of (or at least add to this passageway the Galerie Vivienne). Usual brasserie/bistro fare, reasonable prices (https://cafedelepoque.fr/en/services). The lemon meringue pies are to die for.

Café Le Rostand (6 Pl. Edmond Rostand, 75006). Steps away from the Luxembourg Gardens, which I crossed every single day to go to the uni. Steps away also from the secret and sublime Medici fountain in above park (oh, the things I did there!). Surprisingly good French fare, the beef tartare is excellent (a rare thing!) and well priced (https://lerostand.fr/carte/ - use Google translate, they don't care for tourists). Service is cheeky. Round the corner, one of the most charming shops in Paris, Parapluies Simon (56 Boulevard Saint-Michel, 75006) - only umbrellas and dandy walking sticks (you can hide a whisky mini flask in one of them, I am told by Someone on the phone, but I think he is trolling us - we love that shop).

The Tea Caddy (14 Rue Saint-Julien le Pauvre, 75005). It's been there since 1928, when a certain Miss Klinklin opened it and introduced the Devon scones to France. It is my favorite favorite (https://the-tea-caddy.com/en/tea-room/) and it is perfect on a rainy day. Steps away from the Medieval church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, one of the most authentic and moving experiences of its kind in a very secular town. The Shakespeare & Co. bookstore is just round the corner. A rare gem of a place.

I could go on and on and on. Three more short tips and you will thank me for it, as alternatives to deceiving mainstream options:

The Musée de l'Orangerie instead of The Louvre. Blasphemy? Intense perfumes come in small bottles. It is breathtaking (https://www.musee-orangerie.fr/en).

Château de Rambouillet instead of Versailles (you will not be able to enjoy it AT ALL). Where else could you find Marie Antoinette's private 'milk bar' (La Laiterie de la Reine/ The Queen's Dairy), a supremely elegant affair, with milk-spouting fountains, built to encourage hygienic milk consumption as an alternative to breast-feeding (she was unable to). Trust me and plan a full day for it (https://www.chateau-rambouillet.fr/en/discover).

La Sainte-Chapelle instead of Notre Dame. I always preferred it to anything else, except perhaps Vézelay (far, far away from Paris). It will shock you, but in such a perfect way (https://www.sainte-chapelle.fr/en). Enough said: I will let you discover. Across the Seine, couple this visit with the Musée de Cluny and tell The Lady and the Unicorn I miss them (https://www.musee-moyenage.fr/en/).

I am not sorry for the length of this post. At all. I hope you will enjoy this modest, but very personal selection and perhaps you will come back and tell me if it was worth something. Bon voyage!

Notre Dame on a snowy evening, Paris 1953

#Anon

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home-decor-design · 7 months

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The most beautiful old cafes in the world

It's hard to believe, but some cafes have existed for several centuries. Just imagine that you can go for a coffee and you will be surrounded by objects that are already 200, or even 300 years old. And how many stories such establishments keep! In this article, we'll highlight 30 old retro cafes you might want to visit on your next trip.

Cafe Chris, Amsterdam

Location: Bloemstraat 42, 1015 TB Amsterdam, Netherlands Cafe Chris is the oldest establishment in Amsterdam, founded in 1624 in the Jordaan district. Due to its dark interior, it is also called “Brown Cafe”. Once upon a time, workers who were building the Westerkerk bell tower came here for wages. The cafe still has old floorboards, backlit windows, and dark wood paneling.

Gran Caffe Quadri, Venice

Location: Piazza San Marco, 121, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy The establishment opened its doors in 1638 - then it was called Il Rimedio. Malvasia wine was served here and was said to “invigorate the body and awaken the mind.” In 1775, merchant Giorgio Quadri and his wife Naxina, who arrived from Corfu, decided to invest in this cafe. This is how the history of Gran Caffe Quadri began. In 1830, management passed to the Vaerini brothers, who expanded the establishment by one more floor. In 2011, the Alaimo family bought the cafe. In 2018, Gran Caffe Quadri underwent a major renovation. The famous French creative and designer Philippe Starck was invited to transform it.

Cafe Procope, Paris

Location: 13 Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie, 75006 Paris, France Café Procope is the first literary café in Paris. It was discovered in 1686 by Sicilian immigrant Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli - after whom it took its name. Following the traditions of the Procopio family, who ran the establishment for many years, the cafe serves sorbet and granita (crushed ice), the forerunners of ice cream. King Louis XIV appointed Café Procope as the exclusive producer of sorbets. Its famous visitors include Napoleon, Honoré de Balzac, Paul Verlaine, Victor Hugo and Voltaire.

Cafe Tomaselli, Salzburg

Location: Alter Markt 9, 5020 Salzburg, Austria In the center of Salzburg, on the Alter Markt square, there is the Tomaselli cafe, perhaps one of the most famous in the world. Family-owned for centuries, this restaurant embodies stylish Austrian coffee culture. The first cafe was opened here in 1703, and in 1852 it was bought by Karl Tomaselli. Mozart and his wife Constance, playwright Hugo von Hofmannsthal, and composer Carl Weber loved to visit it. Cafe Tomaselli recommends trying the Einspänner (double espresso with cold whipped cream) and Melange (an espresso-based coffee drink with the addition of heated and frothed milk and whipped cream).

Caffe Florian, Venice

Location: Piazza San Marco, 57, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy Caffe Florian is one of the first cafes in what is now Italy. It was opened in 1720 under the name Alla Venezia Trionfante. The establishment gained popularity due to the fact that both men and women could visit it - in those years this was very rare. Over time, the cafe began to be called Florian - in honor of the owner Floriani Francesconi. In 1760, the sales point for Venice's first newspaper, Gazzetta Veneta, was opened here. At different times, the cafe was visited by Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Johann Goethe, Charles Dickens, George Byron, Giacomo Casanova, Ernest Hemingway and others. Today, Caffe Florian offers more than 30 varieties of coffee drinks, many desserts, salads and light snacks.

Antico Caffe Greco, Rome

Location: Via dei Condotti, 86, 00187 Roma RM, Italy Antico Caffè Greco is a historical café in Rome, opened in 1760. Its founder is the Greek Nicola della Maddalena. Over the centuries, the elegant Caffè Greco has been visited by Hans Christian Andersen, George Byron, Henrik Ibsen, John Keats, Mark Twain and others. Some 300 paintings, memorabilia and vintage photographs of famous clients adorn the walls of this establishment. And gilded mirrors and a piano help maintain an authentic atmosphere.

Caffè Al Bicerin, Turin

Location: Piazza della Consolata, 5, 10122 Torino TO, Italy The history of the establishment began in 1763, when Giuseppe Dentis opened his small shop in the premises opposite the entrance to the Santuario della Consolata Cathedral. In 1856, the current building was built here according to the design of the architect Carlo Promis. And then the cafe acquired a more elegant form, which we can appreciate today - its walls were decorated with wooden panels, mirrors and lamps. It now has round white marble tables, a counter, and shelves. This establishment was the birthplace of the famous Turin drink Bicerin - a mixture of coffee, chocolate, milk and syrup. Even Alexandre Dumas mentioned it in one of his novels.

El Fishawy, Cairo

Location: El-Gamaleya, El Gamaliya, Cairo Governorate, Egypt El Fishawy Café is hidden in the heart of Khan Al Khalili Souk. Its doors opened to visitors in 1773. The first owner of the establishment served Turkish coffee to his friends after sunset. There were more and more people wanting to enjoy a cup of aromatic drink and discuss city news. And then the owner bought buildings nearby, added even more items and hookah to the menu. The current owners of El Fishawy, heirs of the founder, are trying to preserve the traditions and atmosphere of the establishment.

Cafe Tortoni, Buenos Aires, 1858

Location: Av. de Mayo 825, C1084 Buenos Aires, Argentina Cafe Tortoni is considered the oldest in Argentina. It was opened by an emigrant from France in 1858 and named after the café of the same name in Paris. It is worth noting that the first premises of Cafe Tortoni were located on Avenida Rivadavia. The cafe moved to its current location in 1880. The owners have maintained the same style of the establishment throughout all the years of its existence. There is a tango room, as well as tables for playing billiards, dominoes and dice. His most famous guests were Garcia Lorca, Jorge Luis Borges, Carlos Gardel, Hillary Clinton, Albert Einstein, Robert Duvall.

Café Gerbeaud, Budapest

Location: Budapest, Vörösmarty tér 7-8, 1051 Hungary Café Gerbeaud is the most famous cafe in Europe, whose history began in 1858. Its founder is Henrik Kugler, a representative of the third generation of a dynasty of confectioners. He became the first to offer customers slices of his signature Coogler cake to-go in cardboard boxes. During a visit to Paris in 1882, Henrik Kugler met Emil Gerbaud - they soon became business partners. And later, a French confectioner entrepreneur bought the cafe completely. With the advent of Gerbeau, many changes took place in the confectionery - the menu expanded, the equipment changed, and the staff increased. Café Gerbeaud became a favorite place not only among city residents, but also among city guests, since the prices here were affordable for absolutely everyone. After Emile Gerbeau's death in 1919, his wife ran the confectionery. From 1950 to 1984 the cafe was nationalized and was called Vörösmarty. In 1995, Café Gerbeaud was bought by German entrepreneur Erwin Franz Müller. The establishment was renovated and restored to its historical appearance.

Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Naples, Italy

Location: Via Chiaia, 1/2, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy The legendary coffee shop is located in the center of Naples. The establishment was founded by Vincenzo Apuzzo in 1860 - his dream was to create the best cafe in Italy. The next owner was Mario Vacca in 1889. By that time, the premises were already in need of reconstruction. The owner of the cafe invited an architect and artists who worked on updating the interior. Their paintings and sculptures adorn Caffè Gambrinus to this day. The establishment was once visited by Matilda Serao, Ernest Hemingway, Oscar Wilde, Guy de Maupassant, Princess Sissi, and Emile Zola. By the way, the tradition of caffé sospeso was born here - paying for coffee for the next customer.

Cafe de la Paix, Paris

Where is it: 5 Pl. de l'Opéra, 75009 Paris, France Café de la Paix is located in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, at the intersection of Boulevard des Capucines and Place de l'Opéra, in the building of the Le Grand Hotel. The hotel and cafe were opened in 1862 with the financial support of the Pereire brothers. The Café de la Paix gained its first international reputation in 1867, serving the International Exhibition. The establishment, located next to the Opera Garnier, attracted many famous personalities. Pyotr Tchaikovsky, Jules Massenet, the Prince of Wales and Edward VII visited here. In 1896, Eugene Piroux held film screenings at the Café de la Paix, and later a radio studio was organized there. Just like 150 years ago, today the restaurant is also very popular. Salads, hot dishes, snacks and desserts are served here.

Café du Monde, New Orleans

Location: 800 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116, USA Café du Monde is a true New Orleans landmark. The establishment has been in business since 1862 and always serves dark roasted chicory coffee, milk (regular or chocolate), fresh orange juice, hot chocolate and French donuts (beignets).

Cafe Landtmann, Vienna

Location: Universitätsring 4, 1010 Wien, Austria Café Landtmann is the oldest in Vienna. Guests began to be received here on October 1, 1873. Franz Landtmann dreamed of opening not just a coffee shop, but the most elegant place in Vienna. And he did everything for this - visitors were delighted with the innovative spirit of the establishment. Years passed, the owners changed, but this place was always popular among citizens and guests of the capital. In the 1970s, Cafe Landtmann was threatened with closure, but thanks to the efforts of the new owners, it was saved.

Baratti & Milano, Turin

Location: Piazza Castello, 27, 10123 Torino TO, Italy Caffè Baratti & Milano is a historic café in Turin, opened in 1875 in the central Galleria Subalpina. The establishment owes its name to two pastry chefs from Canavese: Ferdinando Baratti and Edoardo Milano. Soon after its opening, Caffè Baratti & Milano became a meeting place for the intelligentsia and the bourgeoisie. Its success has grown to the level of "official supplier of the Royal House". The current appearance of the restaurant is the result of reconstruction in 1909. The room has a lot of marble, bronze, stucco, gilding and wide mirrors, which give this place a rich artistic appearance. The cafe was damaged during the Second World War, but was restored in 1948. Caffè Baratti & Milano offers its visitors more than 20 types of coffee drinks, tea, light snacks, pastries and sweets.

Cafe Central, Vienna

Location: Herrengasse 14, 1010 Wien, Austria The Central coffee shop is the most popular place in Vienna and is included in all must-see lists in this city. There are always long queues here - people come here to drink delicious coffee, eat strudel, listen to live music and just enjoy the atmosphere. Cafe Central was founded by the Pakhi brothers in 1876. Over time, the establishment became a popular place where cultural representatives loved to come. His regular guests were Egon Friedel, Peter Altenberg, Adolf Loos, Alfred Adler, Leon Trotsky and others. After World War II, Cafe Central closed. In 1975, the Ferstel Palace, where the establishment was located, was completely renovated. After this, the cafe reopened its doors to visitors.

Cafe Sacher Wien, Vienna

Location: Philharmoniker Str. 4, 1010 Wien, Austria Another must-visit place in Vienna is the famous Sacher Wien café. After all, this is where they serve Sachertorte, made according to the classic recipe. In 1876, the Sacher family opened a hotel next to the Vienna Opera, which operated a café. It became a place where it was customary to have dinner before attending the opera - writers, artists and high-ranking officials met here. Today, Cafe Sacher Wien is still very popular, as evidenced by the long queues.

Les Deux Magots, Paris

Where is it: 6 Pl. Saint-Germain des Pres, 75006 Paris, France Les Deux Magots is a famous Parisian cafe located in the luxurious Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter. It opened its doors to visitors in 1884. Originally a novelty store was located here, later coffee liqueurs were sold on this site. By 1914, the company was on the verge of bankruptcy, and was bought by Auguste Boulet for his cafe. His heirs still manage the establishment to this day. Since then, Les Deux Magots has played an important role in the cultural life of the capital - writers, poets, artists and other intellectuals gathered here. Among the guests in the cafe one could meet Pablo Picasso, Bertolt Brecht, Albert Camus. The establishment has been described more than once in literary works and shown in films.

Cafe de Flore, Paris

Location: 172 Bd Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, France Cafe de Flore was opened in 1887 in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue Saint-Benoît. The interior of the establishment, in the classic Art Deco style, has remained virtually unchanged since World War II. Since its opening, intellectual audiences have met here. Among the famous guests at Cafe de Flore were Robert Desnos, Pablo Picasso, Georges Bataille. By the way, Charles Maurras wrote his book Au signe de Flore while sitting on the first floor of the cafe. The restaurant's menu includes breakfasts, salads, cheeses, hot dishes, drinks and desserts.

Cafe Comercial, Madrid

Location: Glorieta de Bilbao, 7, 28004 Madrid, Spain Café Comercial is located in the Glorieta de Bilbao square. It was founded by Antonio Gomez Fernandez in 1887. Read the full article

#cafe #historicalplaces #oldcafes #restaurants

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