#David Gareja monastery complex

[dato-georgia-caucasus]

David Gareja monastery complex, Sagarejo, Georgia

[brosencrantz]

This is the last post in a series! You can start from the beginning in Kutaisi here, or browse the whole Adventure in reverse order using the tag here. And as ever, click the images for full-size versions.

The 12th century Tsunda church: locked to visitors, with an alcove by its hearth stained by the soot of centuries of votive candles. I wonder how many have burned there?

Breakfast was a truly scrumptious mix of local fruits, veg and preserves, cheeses, fresh bread, and good black tea (with milk, even!) Unfortunately Arpi was totally ruined with sickness and couldn’t eat, so half – well, a third – of it went back uneaten. I scrubbed the transport arrangements to Batumi, cancelled the nice-looking airbnb in Batumi, agreed another night with our lovely hosts, and asked them if the offer to drive me around the ancient monastery and fortress complexes was still open. It was. So myself, the guesthouse owner and the 12-year-old daughter went off on a ROAD TRIP.

Southeast of Akhaltsikhe, on the way to the Turkish border, the Kura has eaten deep into the stone of the Caucasus mountains.* There are flat valley floors here, rectangles of green and yellow like elongated chequerboards, but it’s mostly a rugged landscape of high hills and scree. Huge building works were going on near the road, vast concrete pilings and silver pipes reaching down from mountaintops; we discussed what was going on, eventually reached a shared understanding of pumped storage. Bright sun beat down; the constant hiss of the crickets mixed with the rush of the airstream, changing in tone as we jinked around crags and big holes in the road. There were more cows about than cars, and it was difficult to get a sense of how busy this place must have been in its heyday. But the relics of a past Georgia were everywhere: a beacon-tower from the time of Tamar; a church one thousand years old; a fort that had once been sacked by Alexander.

“There was a market here for selling people. Is that right?” “Slaves?” “Yes. A slave market.”

Past the confluence with the Paravani river, the land takes on a different character. Like Dartmoor, evidence of sustained, intense human activity is just beneath the surface everywhere: step-farm wine terraces abandoned for centuries; cliffs riddled with mysterious, too-regular holes; remote domes perched on crags; the high, remote, romantic silhouette of the earthquake-slighted Tmogvi fortress, its ruined towers merging into the mountainside. Eventually, most dramatically of all, we came to the monastic cave-city of Vardzia.

https://brosencrantz.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/20180701_102951.mp4

Dramatic Vardzia Reveal. But if that doesn’t work for you, there’s a photo here.

From a distance, Vardzia looks like a termite mound with the side kicked off, if termites could carve out entire mountains. A quake in 1283 did terrible damage, and the whole site was abandoned after an Ottoman invasion a few centuries later. Around three hundred chambers survive of a supposed six thousand. The guidebook at the guesthouse said that it only has four levels now, from an original eight; the audioguide I rented (in good, slightly breathless English) contended that the original number had been nineteen. Much of the city’s structure can only be guessed at, but if you start from the idea of a well defended fortress-monastery dug into the hillside, with a supporting town in its skirts, the picture comes together.

I hiked up the hillside to the base of the complex, rather than wait for a minibus; there were a handful of other tourists there, some American, some Russian. The exposed architecture is weathered to abstraction, and I needed the guide to explain most of the chambers. There were buried stables, refectory chambers similar to those at David Gareja, rooms with huge ceramic wine vessels buried in the floor. A belfry with martens nesting in its carved eaves is one of the rare parts of Vardzia which was actually meant to be above ground. Deep within the mountain, accessed only by a hundred yards of bent-double crouch-walking, a clear spring next to a floodlit chapel gave a real, rare sense of serenity. The audioguide was filled with explanations of sneaky ways the locals would wall themselves off in times of trouble (with only one main entrance and exit to the city). And wonderfully, the core holy site and the most artistically important part of the whole complex has survived very well: the Church of the Dormition, with its ancient but decently-preserved paintings of angels, saints and Tamar the Great.

Tamar occupies a similar position in the Georgian national pantheon as Elizabeth I does in the English: a much-celebrated queen** ruling over a golden age of cultural achievement (with her chronicler Shota Rustaveli an independently-legendary writer of Shakespearean renown***), their reputations shining all the more brightly owing to reigns bookended by periods of darkness and horror. Her depiction at Vardzia is the oldest and most famous, dateable very precisely to within a year of 1185. In a fantastically detailed royal costume, she’s moon-faced and tough-looking: narrow eyes, strong brows and a pursed mouth might indicate character, might depict courtly formality, might be the 1180s ideal female beauty, or might just be the result of an artist used to painting human faces in a martyrdom context. A long, winding, dusty stair took me back to the valley floor; my Georgian guides, who had seen it all before, were chilling by the river. We refilled our water bottles at a fountain, and rode on.

The Vanis Kvabebi complex (“Vani’s caves”) is if anything even more interesting than Vardzia, because it’s easier to understand how it worked in its golden age. A triangular settlement, two sides defined by a deep V-shaped notch in the canyon, one a massive fortification still impressive eight hundred years later. The open-air buildings are mostly now outlines and wildflowers, but the cave dwellings remain in decent nick. A segment of the dome of a fallen church is visible above an altar; in the caves, ancient wine-vessels cut ceramic-lined circles in the floor. Above it all, a tiny dome perches like an eagle’s nest (see if you can find it in the pictures), supposedly lined with ancient calligraphy. My guide was eager to show it off, and borrowed a key from a bearded monk who seemed to appear from nowhere, but a long, steep, rickety pathway and a makeshift ladder later we were wiggling it without effect in a lock. Maybe the lock needed oiling; maybe the monk didn’t like our faces.

Last point on the journey back was Khertvisi Fortress, which stands where the fairly dramatic Paravani River meets the extremely dramatic Kura. Legend says Alexander stormed a predecessor of this castle – plausible, it’s a supremely defensible point even by the very high local standards. As with most of these places, imagination is required regarding the contents, but the keep, the towers and the gingerbread-man-hand crenellations all stand on their own, huge and impressive.

We came back into Akhaltsikhe via a moneychanger – an interesting thing I’ve learned on travels into similar economies is that you get better exchange rates in the back of beyond than you do in the big cities – and I tried, with only partial success, to pay my hosts properly for the wonderful journey. I can’t remember what trifling amount they eventually accepted, but it wasn’t enough. I roused a still-ill Arpi, wrapped up our belongings, and we headed for Kutaisi and the long journey home.

* One plausible etymology for the river’s Georgian name is “gnaw”, as in “gnaws through mountains”. ** There are lots of modern English-language references to Tamar as “King” rather than “Queen”, and half-baked suggestions that this is a unique honour or that she somehow had a masculine kingliness. But Georgian doesn’t have grammatical gender, so her title is genderless – “monarch” or “sovereign” would be more appropriate. *** If you really want to stretch the point, The Faerie Queen and The Knight in the Panther’s Skin are also roughly equivalent, being famous era-defining literary works which are also thinly veiled political allegories about the queen. But that’s a bit tortuous.

  Georgia 2018

Good morning, Kutaisi! – Museums and wine – Chiatura from above – Pioneers’ Palace, Gori – Tbilisi – David Gareja – Akhaltsikhe – Vardzia

the hall of the mountain queen This is the last post in a series! You can start from the beginning in Kutaisi…

[ctdots-blog1]

After before The road peaked near a monument, or just a strange construct to mark a small, from a first sight not important peak. So much of these strange lands remains invisible due to language barrier. Nevertheless, we got our main prize once we turned around. I was so busy observing what is in front that I totally forgot about the other side. The mountain ridge was even clearer. #travel #photography #nature #mountainslovers #naturephotography An excerpt from: https://ctdots.eu/places/sakartvelo/david-gareja-georgia-azerbaijan-border/ (at David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/BygdKQ1I6zs/?igshid=gdsba2u6b6iw

[thehemingwaystories-blog]

Exploring the east of Georgia 🗺 . . . . . #georgia🇬🇪 #saltlake #stunningview #beautifulnature #faraway #wanderlust #photooftheday #pictureoftheday #thehemingway #travel #backpacking #endoftheworld #hike (hier: David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bodsi3VF4nS/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1qoh8jofdzl49

[tpehep-cache]

#spi_animals #turtle #glasses (at David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/CaVwtOOjaoV/?utm_medium=tumblr

[colourtourgeorgia-blog]

Why A Trip To Georgia Should Be On Your Wish List? 5 Reasons

In my opinion, a trip to the past Soviet republic of Georgia should be on every travel enthusiast’s bucket list. With miscellaneous architecture, incredible mountain backdrop and the famous wine-growing province of Kakheti, there’s so much to explore & discover. Below I have mentioned my top 5 reasons to plan a trip to Georgia.

To Savor Appetizing Food & Wine:

A fascinating fusion between the Mediterranean and Persian cuisine, Georgian foods are absolutely appetizing and worth tasting. Its mouthwatering Mediterranean style cuisine regularly involves yogurts, nuts, aubergines, cheese, and fish. Not to forget Khachapuri– cheesy bread; which accompanies just about every meal in Georgia.

Apart from its appetizing cuisines, Georgia is also believed to be the birthplace of wine. Their ancient winemaking procedure using clay jars has been incorporated into UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

To Enjoy The Captivating Mountain Scenery:

Runs between the Black Sea & the Caspian Sea, The Caucasus mountain range is so remote & impassable that rumors have it the great Alexander employed them as a massive natural prison for his boisterous rivalries. However, at present the mountain ranges are subjugated by gorgeous snow-covered glaciers, crystal clear lakes and rivers, and also offer the opportunity to spot wolves, eagles, and bears. Especially in spring & summer, the Caucasus Mountains are a perfect site for walking and trekking.

To Revisit It’s Fascinating History:

Dates back to the biblical eras, the history of Georgia are worth exploring. Its position between Islamic Asia and Christian Europe has ushered to a long string of attackers, all of whom have left their mark on Georgia’s culture & heritage. Even Georgia’s winemaking history dates back 7 thousand years.

To Witness The Out-Of-The-World Sights:

For a country of its size, Georgia is blessed with a massive variety of sights that will take your breath away. Some of the must-visit sights include but not limited to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, cave towns of Uplistsikhe and Vardzia, Ananuri castle complex, Gergeti Trinity church, Stalin Museum, and David Gareja Monastery among others.

To Enjoy the Georgian Hospitality:

Last but certainly not the least; Georgia is perhaps best known for its great hospitality & toasting frame of mind. In fact, there is a proverb that every Georgian follow “every guest is God sent”. Any tourist to Georgia is certain to be invited into the homes of locals, where they’ll make friends forever.

If you are planning for a day tour booking in Georgia, look no further! At Colour Tour Georgia, we have been serving tourists with their Georgia travel needs for more than 20 years. With us your online tour booking in Georgia will be an effortless affair. Whether you are planning for a cultural tour, wine tour, adventure tour, pilgrim tour or cycling tour we have the best tour itinerary and of course deal waiting for you. For any help, don’t hesitate to call us at +995 599 555 242.

For more details, stay social with us on: Facebook , Google+ , Instagram & Twitter

[funtravelmag]

. 去这个 David Gareja的路上，绿色的草地，蓝蓝的白白的云，风景美煞了！等下才放照片 😄 . 先说说这修道院，下面的寺院走几步路就到了，但精华是要上去山顶后面的修行洞，洞里有好多圣人的壁画，就像中国的敦煌莫高窟，价值连城！ . 修行者住在洞里闭关，后面是山，前面就是阿塞拜疆的大草原，风水极佳！上这座山也不难，一个多小时吧，有些地方滑，最好有登山杖，听说有蛇，但我没看到 😉 这里是格鲁吉亚和阿塞拜疆边界，山顶有几个士兵守卫。 . . #davidgareja #格鲁吉亚 #funtravelmag #hiang88 #ITO (at David Gareja monastery complex)

[pmtoliveira]

Foi difícil lá chegi, mas valeu a pena! (at David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/B1t3fGUnrTiyH_5L3ZwfZNJd5595aDulfBB4tc0/?igshid=chrosb4h9a03

[myriamphoto]

When you are in an orthodox monastery in a Georgian mountain and only have an infinity scarf in your bag... 😋⁣ .⁣ #circlescarf #infinityscarf #sexytravel #femmetravel #gltlove #photostory #monastery #shetravels ⁣ #selfie_time #girlsmeetglobe #thetravelwomen #girlsborntotravel #travellushes #mountaingirls #goeverywhere #discovertheworld #travelmoments #beyondthewanderlust #girlswithglasses #blueeyescat #welltraveled #traveljunkies #wanderingsoul #sexy_girl #seekmoments #accessoryfix #travelgeorgia #multipurpose #shetravelz #blueeyed (at David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/B05UcuYnsF7/?igshid=4zyyelqtswm7

[alexsmitposts]

Media Spin Makes David Gareja Monastery a “Flashpoint for False Flag” Both history and borders are not constant. They are often in flux, especially if conflicts can serve some not so hidden agendas. On 30th July, the self-described “independent” outlet OC media, which also happens to be funded by the Open Society Foundation, released an article stating that only Moscow benefits from rising Tbilisi-Baku tensions, referring to the recent flare up in David Gareja between Azerbaijan and Georgia. The article begins with an alarmist tone, claiming that there is hateful rhetoric on both sides, and that only the Russian government can benefit from this. But first some background is required on the current disputed area around a 6th Century Monastery, which is on the border between the two countries and is known as the David Gareja Monastery in Georgia and Keşiş Dağ (Priest Mountain) or Keşikçidağ Dağ (Guardian Mountain) in Azerbaijan. The rightful ownership of this monastery was rarely discussed either during or after the Soviet Union. Not until recently did it become a heated issue, taken advantage of by all sides. Even now it is only fringe nationalist groups and people looking to score political points who are discussing it, but the OC media article makes clear that this will not continue to be the case – foreign contenders have also entered the ring, with far more sinister proposals. But what do these contenders have which will prove their unsubstantiated claims? No historic reference is given to the root of the problem, which lies in the former USSR , when this disputed territory was split between the Georgian and Azerbaijani SSRs, then ceded to Azerbaijan by Sergo Orjonikidze, who was later killed in Stalin’s purges, as a way of laying ticking time bombs. Both Georgia and Azerbaijan have things to gain from this dispute. When the article states that ONLY Russia can benefit from it, this gives the impression that this article is shifting blame to another side to hide its own agenda. But it won’t remain hidden fort long, based on what we know. Now is the future The only thing the authors can cite in support of their rabid claims of rising tensions in the area is a mere two articles on the above-mentioned OC media site. They also find a way to mention Putin and his supposed benefit from the incident, as if he himself is Russia,, and this in itself raises flags. The whole aim of the article and mentioning Russia becomes much clearer towards the end, when the EU and U.S are urged to support Georgia and Azerbaijan in resolving the conflict and curbing Russian influence in the region. Having spoken with several citizens of Azerbaijan and Georgia, I can confidently state that the issue in the David Gareja complex is one between Azerbaijan and Georgia only, and both are sovereign and independent nations with relatively good relations, capable of negotiating the demarcation of the border, as is planned to take place in August. But OC media has made my job easier by demonstrating the motives of the two authors. David J.Kramer is a former Assistant Secretary at the Bureau State for Democracy, Human Rights and Labor, known for influencing countries under the guise of protecting human rights. He has also written a book about containing Putin’s “regime”, a topic he seems to care deeply about, judging by the article. Kramer is a war hawk with a great appetite. He favours keeping sanctions on Russia and meeting any challenge to US dominance with swift action. Richard Kauzlarich, the second author, is a former Ambassador to Azerbaijan and head of the National Intelligence Office for Europe – a man who has spent years influencing Caucasus politics both from the inside and outside. Both these men have experience of working for the US government, and its intelligence agencies specifically, so they know exactly what their employer’s goals are; pushing US interests in the Caucasus, under the guise of stopping Putin and protecting human rights. Their articles are stated to be opinion pieces, to give them an excuse for being so brazen with their propaganda efforts. They usually write for smaller, local new sites, to make it seem as if they have a special connection to the reader, rather than being yet more foreign analysts talking down to them about their own countries’ problems. Bit of History The David Gareja Monastery Complex is located about 60-70 km southeast of Georgia’s capital Tbilisi. Georgian official information describes it as a Georgian religious and cultural monument. It consists of a number of churches, and has historical significance for Georgians as the foundation of one of the most important Georgian saints and the site of the martyrdom of the last remaining monks in Georgia during the period of Muslim occupation. David Gareja has been included on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list. The site is characterized by a unique combination of historic architecture and important bio-geographical features. There are dozens of cave monasteries, decorated with unique frescoes, considered excellent examples of the harmonious interaction of manmade structures with a dramatic landscape. They were created on traditional principles of sustainable living and are considered masterpieces of Georgian Medieval art. The former Soviet government designated the complex part of Azerbaijan. However, upon the collapse Soviet Union the final delimitation of borders was never fully completed. The alleged facts are: “The delimitation process between Georgia and Azerbaijan on the state border is still ongoing. Commissions of delimitation between the states have agreed on 66 percent of the border, but two percent of the David Gareja monastery complex territory is included in an area whose delimitation has not been agreed, including the cells of the Udabno Monastery and the paths leading to it, for the very simple reason that the above mentioned percentage of the monastery complex’s territory came under the control of Azerbaijan during the period of the Soviet Union. Accordingly, the rest of the David Gareja Monastery complex is claimed to be situated on Georgian territory.” Azerbaijan didn’t restrict free movement on this territory for many years. However, things have changed in recent months, as Azerbaijan border guards have told Georgia that they will only let clerics and border guards into the Udabno Monastery. It appears that the Government of Georgia raised the monastery issue after information was reported about Georgian citizens and tourists not being allowed onto the part of the monastery complex now occupied by Azerbaijan. I researched this topic back in 2012, when researching information shared by Georgian priests. Since May 6 of that year Azeri guards have been posted on the part of the monastery complex their country controls, specifically the Udabno Monastery. They have not allowed some Georgians to enter various sections of the monastery complex, and visitors are told that the Udabno Monastery is part of an Albanian cultural monument, a contentious claim in the eyes of most Georgians. Naturally this issue must be resolved based on the two countries’ traditional good-neighbourly and friendly spirits. However, The former Saakashvili government and its supporters are keen to use media sites as pots to stir in order to further divide an already divided country. The dispute had almost entirely died down in Azerbaijan, but an opposition politician made a video a few weeks ago. General Elçin Quliyev maintained in this that in light of Georgian violations of the border and acts of violence towards border guards, which include grabbing their weapons, more punitive actions should be taken. Ali Alıyev, one leader of the Citizens and Progress Party, said in a recent interview with Hamam Times, that a source who claims to have worked in the border patrol for over a year and a half had strict orders to warn off those approaching anywhere within 50 metres of the border, first verbally, and then by firing warning shots into the air, and then finally shoot the intruders if they took no notice and violated the border. Ali Aliyev is not related to the first family, and Aliyev is the second most popular name in Azerbaijan. The party he represents is a minor opposition party, demonstrating that the border question is being used by political parties on both sides for sordid purposes, which is scary in itself. The purpose of this dispute, and who lies behind it, are clear – to provide an opportunity for friends of the US to capitalise on the possibility, however slight, that this cherished historic site will be forever lost to future generations of Georgians thanks to their allegedly “pro-Russian” government. Having failed in Tbilisi with efforts at destabilization, they are now trying to foment an upheaval in the border regions, amongst people more than happy to resolve this issue amongst themselves, without outside interference.

[dato-georgia-caucasus]

David Gareja monastery complex, Sagarejo, Georgia

[ctdots-blog1]

Walking on the edge The road on the edge of the border between #Georgia and #Azerbaijan continued to a picturesque small Chapel with many people around it, just sitting and observing this magnificence. The best part of it was that the Georgian side seemed to be green and the Azerbaijan side looked golden yellow. So much contrast in such a small space really surprised me, but once again it just proves the importance of the mountains to the micro-climate. #travel #photography #nature An excerpt from: https://ctdots.eu/places/sakartvelo/david-gareja-georgia-azerbaijan-border/ #connectingthedots #photooftheday #outdoors #naturelovers #awesomeearth #explore #exploretocreate #natureswonders #travelwriter #travelblog #travelgram #travelphoto #blog #travelblogger #ilovetravel #writetotravel #picoftheday #postcardsfromtheworld #traveltheworld #traveler #mountains #hikingadventures #mountainslovers #visitgeorgia #caucasus (at David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bye2OcsoRUK/?igshid=opluspazmwak

[thehemingwaystories-blog]

At the border between #georgia and #azerbaijan ⛰ . . . . . #thehemingway #georgia #azerbaijan #explorer #travelgeorgia #davidgareja #davidgarejamonastery #girlswhotravel #shewhowanders #femmetravel #trekking (hier: David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/BpRSdrNijrO/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=14vrbx2yj0281

[forsomemasses]

St. David Garejeli pilgrimage at David Gareja monastery complex ~ Magical experiences in a magical land #georgia🇬🇪 (at David Gareja monastery complex) https://www.instagram.com/p/Byqi4VtFf-5/?igshid=1709cvu413y8t

[landscapeusa]

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[donatto-tur]

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