Travel Sketches (Nov 2023 - March 2024)
Nov 2023.
Bishnumaya just turned 100 this October. She comes from Pokhari, about 15 kilometers from Mirik town. As we spoke, she recalled old memories, her expressions shifting as if reliving those moments. She seemed elsewhere, gazing past me into the distance, and then, as if continuing a conversation with herself, she said, “Nowadays people ask about caste when they meet someone, and how is that of any use?”
She described how, when she was small, there were no proper schools in her village. She learned to read and write, however little, by arranging corn kernels on the ground to form shapes that resembled letters and numbers. Reflecting on her long life, she added that everyone around her—friends her age and younger siblings—is dead, and she feels like a monster who swallowed them all.
The sun is out, but it’s only warm where the light falls. The history of Mirik is reflected in its lake, which used to be a marshland. According to Wikipedia, the name Mirik comes from the Lepcha words Mir-Yok, meaning "place burnt by fire." It's very green now for a place that was once burnt.
A town fair is underway, offering a range of attractions: a Ferris wheel, flower park visits, fast food stalls, ice cream carts, horse and boat rides, live pop music, card game betting, balloon shooting, local bingo-type card games, and hoopla with prizes up for grabs. Some prizes are cash with notes of 20, 50, and 100 rupees.
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For the past ten years, I haven't had a permanent home. When I wanted to sidestep the weight of planning and longed for comfort and familiarity, I returned to places I liked a little more than others: Auroville, Dharamshala, Shillong, Aizawl, Nagaland.
I like meeting new people and have formed what feels like extended families in some of these places. Since I have mostly felt free to move around, sometimes nostalgia of people or a time or a curiosity to see how things may have changed would draw me back to a place.
Earlier in August, while I was temporarily living in Auroville, I got a call about a six-month project called The Great Himalayan Exploration, a collaboration between UNESCO and Royal Enfield. The project aims to document the intangible cultural heritage of local communities in the Himalayan region of Northeast India.
My work on this trip specifically involved photographing the people behind various cultural practices and examining the ecosystems they exist in. To build context, I engaged in various methods, such as scanning old photos from people’s personal albums, taking photos of their living spaces, landscapes, and exploring archival resources. From November to April, we were in West Bengal, Sikkim, Tripura, Mizoram, Assam, Nagaland, and Meghalaya.
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On our way back to Siliguri from Mirik, we made a lengthy stop near a tea estate. Lalita, from Tingling village, shared that she had spent two decades working on the estate, much like many other women from the village. Their collective hope was to earn a minimum of 500 rupees per day for their labor. Currently, they are receiving 250 rupees per day for an eight-hour shift.
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Sanchamaya, 74, sits with her friend Bodhimaya in the front yard of her house in Darap, both lifelong farmers of the area and belonging to the Limbu community. They're nice and welcoming. It's our second day in Pelling, West Sikkim, and I've ended up at the wrong house. Today, we're supposed to see a drum dance(chyabrung) performance by local Limbu boys, which I'll catch later.
They talk in basic broken Hindi, with Shusan translating most of it. Sanchamaya leads me to the back of their house, where she proudly shows me trays of dried large cardamoms. Later, we'll visit her cardamom field. They also cultivate Mosambi, oranges, guavas, maize, peas, ginger, and onions. Sanchamaya spends her days with her friend, grandchildren, working in the fields, and cooking in the kitchen.
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I visited Chuba village, 3 hours away from Gangtok, with Semeon from Haflong, Assam, a textile design graduate from NID and working at Sonam’s design studio called EchoStream based in Gangtok. Semeon was familiar with the village and the community I was there to meet. Arun Gurung and his wife, founders of Chubako, are endeavoring to revive an old tradition of sourcing wool from indigenous banpala sheep to make clothes. They operate a small cooperative called Chubako. In this village of 43 families, one person from each household now works for Chubako. (photo above: Arun Gurung, founder of Chubako)
(photo below: Designed by Sanskruti Shukla, co-created with the craft community of Chubako for Echostream, Gangtok)
Local stories of the craftspeople of Chuba are showcased and incorporated into wool through interactive workshops focused on storytelling and design development. The felted art rugs depict the flora and fauna of Sikkim.
Gangamaya Gurung, 83, Arun Gurung's mother, lit up like a child when she saw Semeon. They shared a bond akin to best friends. Despite her age, Gangamaya remains active, tending to sheep, cutting grass, farming, and weaving. When asked about her leisure activties, she said, "eat, watch TV - eat, watch TV."
Sampati Debbarma, a farmer, returning from work in Takarjala, Tripura.
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Jan, 2024.
We have been out on this trip for 3 months. My thoughts scattered in a kind of bardo between the world I know and the world I am coming into contact with. I picture house fronts with flowers in Darjeeling, roads winding, the long cold rivers snaking toward mountains that seem no bigger than my thumb, the snow capped peaks shifting colours, the prayer flags in high altitudes and on house doors. Gangtok’s Lal Bazaar skateboarders flash by, a school in Tripura where a student lives on 700rs a month, nini bung tamo and 4 other sentences I learned in Kokborok nag me like a tune. Sidangcherra to Pecharthal to Panisagar to Damchara checkpoint we make our way from Tripura into Mizoram by road. I think about where I will be later in the summer and see a white fluffed cloud taking the shape of a growing tree far on the horizon.
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Krismas Ruaitheh(Christmas feast) at Khatla Presbyterian Church, Aizawl. This is my 3rd time in Aizawl. I used to go for dinners, sometime evening tea to my friend’s family house further up the road from the Khatla church. We are here to document the traditional community feast of the Mizos.
Priscilla is currently pursuing her BA in Political Science in Delhi, and she's home for the holidays. She was volunteering at Khatla Presbyterian Church where she and her friends were tasked with serving lemonade, a customary drink after the meal. For Priscilla, the most remarkable aspect of the feast is its longstanding tradition — dating back to pre-Christian times — where the entire community comes together to share its moments of joy and sorrow + they still use Changel Hnah (plantain leaves) — the traditional way to serve meals.
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On an idle walk one evening in Khatla, I find myself in a local thrift store and get invited to meet James Lalhmingliana. He is 80, one of the founding members of Aizawl's first bike club, Aizawl Thunders. He went to school at Sts. Edmund’s in Shillong.
In 1966, he joined the Mizo National Front uprising, fighting for freedom. He went underground for seven years, first in Arakan, Burma, then in 1969 to East Pakistan for shelter. "It was useless," he says. "We wasted our good years. When I came back, I was put in jail, but not for long."
He has been housebound for years due to his health.
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At 8 am on a cold January morning, we arrive at Joonbeel Mela. (Joon and beel are Assamese terms for moon and wetland. The Tiwa community first organized this in the 15th century to exchange goods between indigenous tribal communities in Assam and the surrounding areas.)
It is known as the only fair in India where people still practice barter, exchanging goods like fish, sweet potatoes, yam, homegrown vegetables, turmeric, chili, kali miri, and rongalau.
Over a few hours, I have brief interactions with people from Jagiroad, Pamlatar, Deosal, Sira, Changsari, Potia Pathar, Bengenabari, Palahguri, ulukunchi, morigaon, Nagaon, Saru Amli, Belguri, Damal, and places as far as Langpih, mawlynnong in Meghalaya. No one refuses a photo.
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This is my fifth time in Nagaland. I first came here ten years ago and stayed at Kevesho's home. He is the father of the Tetseo Sisters, a well-known folk group of four sisters from Nagaland.
Kevesho Tetseo, son of Nülhüprü Tetseo was born in 1950s in Thüvopisümi village, Phek District, Nagaland. Initially schooled in the village, he finished his HSLC at Government High School in Kohima and graduated from Kohima College in Arts. He worked in the Education Dept. for sometime and now retired. Active in cultural music, Chokri language preservation, and in church choir since his youth.
(Tati - - a single string musical instrument which is used as an accompaniment with singing of li- indigenous songs by the Chakhesang Nagas.)
Kevesho learned how to make Tati from observing elders in his village when he was young and has done Tati making work since 1990s and a good number of it has been produced till date by him including improvising it for longer life by using steel wires as strings.
He tells me, the woven shawl he is wearing in the picture is "thipiqhü". It is the most prestigious shawl (indigenous cloth) among many traditional clothes of the Chakhesang tribe. It is a shawl they wear with humility and honour.
“Nagaland is my home and I love my culture, its rich traditional heritage, and the natural beauty.”
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Daisy Yaden was born in Zotlang, Mizoram. She studied at the Welsh Mission School in Mission Veng, Aizawl. She will turn 98 this June. She learned to weave shawls on a backstrap loom, stitching, and baking from her mother, often baking cakes in the fireplace. She taught in the interiors of Nagaland, in places like Noklak and Changtongya. She started her career by teaching people self-sufficiency—how to cook, make jams and pickles—skills she picked up from a British magazine called Woman’s Own. She used to compose little tunes for children at Sunday school. She loves flower gardening and her favourite film is "Gone with the Wind."
Photographed at her house in Duncan, Dimapur.
I am sitting with Marian, Daisy's daughter, at her house in Duncan. Marian, now 75, lived in Bombay from 1970 to 2012. She went to college there and worked as an air hostess with Air India for 34 years. In 2012, she returned to Nagaland. We agreed to meet again for lunch and look at her old photo albums.
(below: Marian,16, in Kohima trying a sari for the first time / in Santa Cruz, Bombay in the 80s with James Ferreira and friends)
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Khinchi is Christian, and Sindri is Songsarek, belonging to one of the last animism practising communities. I learned a few words in Achik: Khading bo, Methela, Namja, and Manja. Here I am in the extended kitchen space at Sindri's hut, in Sadolpara, Dadenggre, where they are taking a break from cooking lunch.
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First published in Hindustan Times June '24
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Hindustan Times vs. Times of India: A Comparative Brief
Hindustan Times (HT)
Founded: 1924
Headquarters: New Delhi
Ownership: HT Media Ltd.
Overview:
Historical Significance: Founded during India's freedom struggle, HT has played a pivotal role in shaping public opinion and supporting the independence movement.
Editorial Stance: Known for its balanced and moderate stance, HT covers a wide range of topics, including politics, business, sports, and entertainment.
Readership: Popular in Northern India, especially in Delhi and surrounding regions.
Digital Presence: Strong online presence with a focus on delivering news through its website and mobile apps.
Times of India (TOI)
Founded: 1838
Headquarters: Mumbai
Ownership: Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd. (The Times Group)
Overview:
Historical Significance: One of the oldest English-language newspapers in India, TOI has a long history of journalistic excellence and influence.
Editorial Stance: Known for its comprehensive coverage of national and international news, TOI often leans towards a progressive and liberal viewpoint.
Readership: Widely read across India with a strong presence in major metropolitan areas, including Mumbai, Delhi, and Bangalore.
Digital Presence: Leading digital platform with a significant online readership and robust engagement across social media channels.
Key Differences:
Founding History:
HT: Established during the independence movement, reflecting a strong nationalist ethos.
TOI: Began as a British-owned publication, transitioning over time to an Indian ownership while maintaining a broad editorial focus.
Editorial Approach:
HT: Known for a balanced and moderate approach.
TOI: Tends towards progressive and liberal perspectives.
Regional Influence:
HT: Stronger influence in Northern India.
TOI: Pan-India presence with strongholds in multiple regions.
Digital Strategy:
Both: Have strong digital footprints but TOI leads in terms of online readership and engagement.
In summary, while both Hindustan Times and Times of India are major players in the Indian media landscape, their historical backgrounds, editorial stances, and regional influences set them apart, offering readers distinct perspectives and coverage on national and international affairs.
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Singer Louis Tomlinson has embarked on a journey of finding his own voice and rhythms, outside of One Direction band, and he’s clutching on to his experiences as part of the boyband to help him navigate the music world.
After stepping away from One Direction, the 30-year-old made his solo debut with Walls in 2020, and is coming out with his second solo album, Faith in the Future, seven years after the band split.
“When you’re in a band, there’s always an element that you’re one out of five. While you’re still yourself, you remain conscious of everyone else,” Tomlinson continues, “Now, the good thing about being out on your own is that it gives you a chance to show who you are as an artiste, and who you truly want to be.”
Talking about his evolution since the band members went their own ways, the singer, in an exclusive conversation tells us, “With every song I write, I feel like I grow as a songwriter. For me, just to be in a position right now, and to be able tour with this next album, is definitely something I didn’t really expect at this stage of my career.”
[…]
We all are really close. The bond that we shared growing up through such a crazy amazing experience but chaotic at times… That’s a bond for life,” he gushes.
Meanwhile, Tomlison is busy making a career as a solo artiste. Less than a year after the split, he released his first single, Just Hold On, with Steve Aoki. He feels his evolution as a singer reflects in the music of the second album, which ranges from pop to punk to dance music to emotional, with songs such as Silver Tongues, Bigger Than Me, and Out Of My System.
“It’s a better representation of who I am as an artiste... For instance, when I listen to Silver Tongues, it’s one of the songs that I’m proud of. I could imagine it being on an album that I was listening to growing up, or on my playlist. As a music fan, that was a good moment while creating something. I was really excited not just to sing, but also to listen,” he explains.
And the singer credits his time in the band for preparing him for survival in the industry. “It definitely taught me a lot. It was pretty much like a crash course (to be) in the music industry because we did so much in five years,” he says, admitting, “But, there’s also a part of that experience which makes this solo part challenging at times. That’s because you’ve got different expectations and you’ve to work out where you are in the industry.”
Talking about the pressures of fame, the singer says while there are days where it’s more challenging, “I’m used to the pressure; it definitely motivates me and keeps me ambitious”.
Mention about enjoying artistic freedom as a solo artiste, Tomlinson says it was a revelation for him.
“I didn’t really know until I started my solo career how much I wanted to do this and how much I enjoy it. Being a solo artiste definitely gives me a moment to express myself and give fans better insight as to what they saw me in the band and who I really was. So, it has been good,” concludes the singer, who recently announced a UK and European Arena tour for 2023.
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