#I also love on the top floor of my hostel and it’s boiling here all the time

[yourworldmyworldourworld-blog1]

Bolivia - The land of the Salt Flats and much more

Now onto my trip into Bolivia. A land where the people are kind yet proud. Which means issues can arise and no one wants to compromise. One of the highest places on earth. A land growing in exportation and a land of new insights.

Day 1. (16.10). From Peru, Puno we left at 8am bus to Copacabana. Arrived at the border at 11am and got to Copacabana at 13:00 (Bolívia is 1 hr ahead of Peru). I arrived and had lunch at a Coffee-Restaurant Gourmet "Ali" at Av 6 de Agosto. Order the trout lasagna; it's amazing. Then back near the white anchor for a quick singari sour - the bolivian equivalent of Pisco sour. At 2:15 pm boat to isla de sol Set off arriving at 3ish. I found the Intikala hostal (bol50) for single with bathroom but no paper, towel, soap or breakfast also no wifi (for bol80 all of the above included). I also had the option of inti pacha hostel. Off I went to walk to both viewpoints. Sunset was stunning even if overcast. I saw sunset at las velas restaurant and dinner next door to the hotel - quinoa soup for bol10. Would have loved to have walked back to last velas for some hot wine but with the thunderstorm and having to walk through a small forest alone in the dark I thought best not to. Next time. Also be aware that the north part of the island is shut for tourism due to a conflict that started 1.5 years ago between the communities in the Centre and North of the island. The Centre gets no income and the North has great tourism. Consequently the center stopped tourists crossing to the north as they don't want tourists. The North, in turn, does.

Isla del sol - south side

Day 2. (17.10). I woke up at 5 am to find that the sun was already up. It was overcast but the view from my window was stunning with peaks covered in ice. Back to bed for a 9am wake up. I checked out and off I went to see the red flag where you could not walk past due to the Northern conflict. It was a nice walk and a sad reality that tourists for a year and half now have not been allowed to go beyond this point to the Northern part of the island. Then back to the hotel and off to the other view point further south. By that point, the sun had come out and what a view. Now back at the hostel for 12. Watching the view with some muña tea and some peanuts. I will head down for the 3:30pm boat around 2:30pm. You have to pay for wifi here. So 24hrs without connection to the outside world, which was quite nice. I had lunch with an amazing view then ferry back for 3:30pm. Make sure you set off to go town (taking the left turn on the junction). It is hard to miss the way as there will probably be a few people coming up that way. On the way to the island we were dropped off at the temple and not the port (where we were picked up) as the climb up from the port is quite tough so make sure you carry as little luggage as possible. You can leave your big bags at the cafe by the big anchor (literally a large anchor in Copacabana). Just buy something there and they will keep it. Any doubts ask the Peru Hop guides if you are travelling with Peru Hop. Arriving back in Copacabana at 5pm we had 1hr. So we walked to the church which is quite beautiful with Arabic architecture then back down to get some food and our bags. Then 6pm bus to La Paz. In La Paz we stayed at Loki hostel, which, although known to be a party hostal was actually quite chill. The location is central but near some apparently dodgy streets. I had no issues and as the hostel is in a building which was formerly a hotel, being on the 3rd floor when the bar is on the 7th means you can’t hear much noise. The noise that annoyed us for two nights straight was coming from the street.

La Paz - view from Mirador Killi-Killi 

Day 3. (18.10). First breakfast at Loki which was ok but not great so I would recommend going elsewhere in town although Loki is just easy. I then set off to get some money out from the ATMs right in front of the hostel. The hostel also does not do laundry but there is a laundry place across from the hostal that does laundry and delivers back at the hostel - 12bol per kilo. Today we went to see the Mercado de las Brujas which is just a collection of stalls. From there I went to get my Peru Hop top. Then calle Jaén and then the Killi-Killli mirador. I advise you get a taxi up there and back down. It cost up 10 bol up as we were half way there and 20 bol to get back to the hostel. We made it back for 11ish. We had lunch at Cafe Vida - vegan place with a delicious lunch set menu with soup and salad plus juice for 35bol. Then back at the hostel for some chill time until I went to meet Agnes for drinks at HP Bronze Coffee Bar. I had a quinoa beer which was super nice called Niebla brewed by the place. Then back at the hostel and on the way bought ceibo chocolate (Bolivian chocolate which is quite yummy).

Lunch bowl at Cafe Vida

Day 4. (19.10). Wake up at 8am to head out into La Paz to take the Teleferico. I took the orange line north (3Bol a ride) and stayed on it until the end, then bought another ticket to the White line and stayed on it until the end and lastly the Blue line (called línea celeste). On this last line you can either take it back to the centre of the city or out to the south of the city to connect with the green and yellow lines. The south of the city is the richer part of the city. The orange line is the longest and takes you up towards the mountains which is pretty awesome view. Then the white line is also quite cool as it takes you past the tall buildings. The blue line then drops you off just outside the centre, near the Wild Rover hostel. I then walked back stopping at the restaurant called Ali Pacha recommended by Agnes. The menu looked amazing, Bol100 for a set lunch menu that looked beautiful. I was just not in the mood so went back to the cheaper option: Cafe Vida. Bus at 9pm to Uyuni with Todo Turismo buses.

CRIBSHEET OF LA PAZ

Where to stay: I stayed at Loki which although known as a party hostal is like a 7 floor former hotel and I had no issues in my room. They also do individual rooms. My issues was on the street as both nights I stayed in La Paz there was a band outside playing until 11pm. The other options that other PeruHop travellers stayed at was Buckie Hostel and Adventure Brew B&B which were on Av Ismael montes but also pretty close to the centre. 

For Restaurants: I went to Cafe Vida and loved it (vegan and delicious - BOL35 for lunch deal). I also ate at Loki but not the greatest food. Also gave a chance to street food which was ok. Other places I would try/ recommended: Bolivian Popular Food (Calle Murillo 826); La Casona (Av Mariscal Santa Cruz); Ali Pacha (Calle Colon No 1306); HB Bronze Caffeebar (Plaza Tomas Frías 1570). 

For typical foods and drinks: empanadas (saltenas); sopa de maní (peanuts soup); plato pásenos (typical dishes); sackhta (dehydrated potatoes, chicken and salsa and pepper). Then for the drinks you have Singani sour (a Bolivian pisco sour); for beers look out for Pasena and Wari brands.

To do: city tours; the markets (La Lanza, de las Brujas; Rodriguez); teleférico with 7 lines); trekking (choro which starts at la cumbre up el chairs to come back to la Paz, taquesi until chulimani, three day trek from tiwanacota); Tiawanaco (archeological site at Bol100 entry, Chaqueltaia (5,200m mountain full day trek); vale de la Luna; Vale de las Animas (geological formations); Muele del Diablo (30 mins from la Paz and a 3 hr walk); Camino de la Muerte.

From La Paz to Uyuni: Todo Turismo buses. 

Uyuni Tours: use FindLocalTours to look at the possible options. When you get to Uyuni there are lots of options but don’t opt for the cheapest as you need experienced drivers and that will cost you a bit more. I used Perla de Bolivia and had no issues (USD200 with all included plus transfer to San Pedro de Atacama).

Day 5. (20.10). Arrived in Uyuni  for 8am. Some people headed straight to their salt flat tours which is definitely doable. I instead, checked in and relaxed. Watched Netflix at the hostel: Piedra Blanca. The hostel is clean and very nice only a bit outside the town but only 5/10 min walk. Went into town bought pasta and cooked it at the hostel. Relaxed day.

Day 6. (21/10). Wake up and breakfast was good. Left the hostel around 9am to get to the agency promptly. Arrived there at 9ish and waited around until 10ish when we set off to the train graveyard. From there we went to a salt making town which has souvenirs etc. I didn't buy a dragon but I should have or instead have props for the salt flats. We resorted to using a banana, which served as a boat quite well. Then lunch at the next stop at the salt flats and more photos. We stopped at another beautiful spot and took more photos. Then we stopped at a coral volcanic island for an one hour walk. We then stopped again for sunset and wine. We then carried on towards the evening hostel.

Sunset at day 1 at the Salt Flats

Day 7. (22.10). Day 2 of the sat flats. We woke up at our salt hostal at 7am and were out by 7:30am. We decided not to do the galaxies cave as it wasn't amazing and would cost us bol20. Instead we headed to the army of stones which are volcanic formations from when the volcanoes erupted and formed interesting shapes raised from the floor. We drove past the altiplano lakes and siloli desert to later stop to see the flamingos. We had lunch at a flamingo lake. We then carried on to the stone tree for 3/4pm then the red lake when we entered the national park (bol150). Almost at the hostel we passed the sol de manana geysers with boiling sulphur (volcanoes below the surface). We arrived at the hostel by the hot springs for 6pm had tea and dinner. The entrance to the hot springs was bol6. Some went some didn't as it was super cold but the stars were beautiful.

Day 8. (23.10). Wake up at 6am to leave at 7am. If you can wake up for sunrise and head to the hot springs, do. The sunrise is beautiful. At 7am we headed to the Salvador Dali desert (the paintings came first). The green lake followed with a beautiful view of the Licancabur volcano. From there we left the reserve and headed to the border. We arrived at the border at 8am and the Bolivian side was easy. At the Chilean side we took an hr or so. They stamp passports then check bags for food etc. From there into Chile.

Alicancbur - day 3 almost at the Chilean border

Thank you Bolivia.

Your world. My world. Our world. 

[ovmatt-blog]

Chapter 7. Magic Eye Hostel

Cold stars blinked at me in the velvety-black boundless sky… Some terribly powerful unfathomable force hurled me through the night sky at a reckless speed, the chill wind blowing into my hot sweaty face… Whoosh! … The whistle of cleaved air in my ears… Whoosh! … I turned over… My jacket was flapping in the wind… Suddenly I started losing altitude… Bang!

...I touched the ground with my arms as I was let down to land, squatting down. I was gulping lungfulls of cold night air. I opened my streaming eyes, hastily drew myself up to full height and looked around…

I was standing in a wide cobbled pedestrian street. Bright billboards, flickering with neon ads, soft music, flowing from gaping entrances and drowning the distant rearing of rumbling cars and passing double-deckers, created the swift mix of light and sounds… The restaurant quarter…

It was strangely warm and chestnuts waved their long leaves under the fresh night breeze. A line of them, twined with the strings of glaring electric light bulbs, shielded the glass-walled terrace of the restaurant I was standing in front of, Tin-Tin and Max flanking me. A huge neon signboard in the form of two pure-white outstretched wings on the top of the building, splashing white light in all directions, spelled ANGELS. A rain of white electric light strings illuminated its transparent panes, which alternated with gaping spaces. A greatly crowded place it was, with all the tables occupied by visitors, chatting and laughing while having their meals, and waiters in black rectangular aprons, balancing trays and several plates on their wrists, while shuttling about wooden tables.

I stood absolutely charmed by the luring warmth and light. “Maybe we should drop in?” I implored my companions.

Max looked askance at me, “But you have said you are out of money?” His very tone and entire appearance seemed to blame me for squandering.

“Max is virtue itself,” Tin-Tin winked to me, “Cheer up, Robin! One day we will afford the luxury of dining here!”

“It’s late, we should hurry on,” Max said in a conspiratorial tone and then said in a loud voice, addressing no one in particular, “We are the guests of Magic Eye Hostel.” A strange grinding sound followed… With unbelieving eyes I was staring at the glass restaurant, which – well, you won’t believe– was rotating clockwise! And the next second the icy gust of the west wind blew out the white electric lights on the chestnuts, while the restaurant showed its backside and stopped with a clang…

…We were standing in the cobbled street, in front of a grey stone single-storeyed building, fenced about with short silver fir trees in tubs. Narrow loophole-like windows were decorated by hanging boxes, from which none-so-pretties were peeping out. The neon signboard read Magic Eye Hostel and the “e”s in its name, shaped and coloured as green eyes, winked at the deserted open countryside beyond the fir fince. Below the signboard were smaller neon letters: Special offer – pay in instalments!

The arch-shaped oak door lacked a keyhole or door handle. Tin-Tin knocked at the door three times and after a second it opened inside. Max stepped over the threshold, Tin-Tin and me at his heels. The door closed behind our backs with a creak and we plunged into complete darkness.

We were standing close together near the entrance in pitch darkness, unsure whether to move further into the house or to remain at the threshold until dawn. Then Tin-Tin made a few steps and stumbled against something, nudging it with his foot. Something soft and warm and evidently alive brush against my leg, I started and ticked off, “What the –”, when all of a sudden a tongue of flame emerged out of nowhere in the centre of the hall and hung in the air, lighting up the face of a lad, arising behind it, who turned out to be carrying a candle in his hand.

He was wearing a long nightshirt and nightcap with a long liripipe dangling near his shoulder. He raised the candle higher, so that its flickering light was thrown along the square hallway. The walls were completely crammed with pounchy bookcases, stuffed with shabby books, bound in old leather. Flower-shaped green glass vases, white crystal glasses with sterns in the form of human figures, supporting those cups, and old-fashioned gilted Christmas-tree toys glistened in the pool of dim light.

At the foot of the one of the bookcases was a peach-coloured cloud. I looked more closely – the cloud turned out to be a huge fluffy cat, screwing up his eyes. No doubt, it was he who had rubbed against my leg in the darkness. Having noticed my intent gaze, he looked back with a green-eye stare.

“It is a bit late,” uttered the “Liripipe”.

“Yeah, we were at classes and – ” started Tin-Tin, but was interrupted by, “I see a newcomer…”

“Yeap, my name is Robin Orion, I would like to – ” But I was also interrupted by his short, “Yule.” While I was staring at Tin-Tin, asking with my eyes what this person meant by this, he proceeded to the bureau and opened a huge ledger. Hardly had Tin-Tin hissed to me, “His name, it’s his name,” when this strange guy held out a quill to me and pointed at the ledger, “Write down your name and how many nights you will stay for…”

“Well, I have only one pound and I …”

Yule interrupted me again, “Don’t bother me, state the number of nights, you can pay later.” Then he shut the ledger down with a loud noise and exclaimed, “Now will we listen to a tale or don’t you need breakfast tomorrow? Let’s go to the kitchen!”

Tin-Tin swore under his breath… Going in arrière-garde I asked him quietly, “And how are tales and breakfasts connected?”

“He will explain it to you…” hissed Tin-Tin.

“And how much do you pay per night?”

“I don’t pay, I have no money,” light-heartedly he answered, “I live in debt.”

“I hear all you chuchoter! Yes, I am a waiter at the Gudwin restaurant and help out here as receptionist and stay overnight and cook breakfasts… But cooking is my passion! And one day I will become le Chef at Gudwin’s! And you know that I need new impressions to get inspiration at cuisine! Even for cooking your breakfasts!” Yule proclaimed. “Therefore, you tell me the tales and what is the tale about in the evening that is your breakfast in the morning!” he finished his tirade, evidently exhausted by its length.

We passed the arch, leading to the kitchen with snowy whitewashed walls, covered with all types of hanging utensils – frying pans, stew pans, saucepans, pots, pitchforks, knives of all sorts – for meat, bread, cheese, deserts, and of all shapes – bent, curved, jagged, and of all colours – silver grey, steel-blue and even green and pink.

The floor of greyish-white faceted wood bars was pensively observing a sooty ceiling, anticipating the frequent pat-pat of the kitchen master’s foot soles, striding between steaming casseroles and hellishly burning pans emitting puffs and columns of black smoke.

In the middle of the room there stood a white oval wooden table with two semi-circular benches down each side. The benches had high striped backs where lettuce green stripes alternated the dark green ones. Huge blankets and petite pillows with oriental patterns were lying, folded in piles on the benches. Flashes of hearth fire played over the walls and reflected themselves in the utensils and flaming gothic glasses in the cupboard.

Yule was spinning here and there, opening and shutting cupboard doors, to proclaim at last, “I will brew up some tea!” And he jabbered, “You know, different travellers bring me exotic food as a present – dried grasshoppers from Mexico, rose petal jam from Uzbekistan, tofu from Japan. And tea – green needles, bergamot, pu-erh, oolong.” He waved with his hand in the direction of an oven and soon a kettle started to whistle. Then he took a glass jar with little grey-green balls out of the sideboard and a glass pitcher out of the cupboard, threw one ball into the pitcher, poured in boiling water and uttered, “Now I will show you a Wonder!” Fascinated, we were watching his preparations.

For a few seconds nothing was happening, but then the ball started to swell and expand, unfurling its long, narrow green leaves, and tiny yellow flowers shot up from the ball, soaring bottom up and, finally, in the centre, a Miracle – an innocent white lotus flower  emerged and… it was blooming.

After we tore our gazes away from it, we looked up at Yule, waiting for an explanation. With an air of reverie he stated, “This precise ball is called – White Lotus virgin.” Looking at our perplexed faces, he snapped, “Blooming tea it is! Haven’t you heard about it? During the rainy season, the Chinese collect the tea plants’ upper leaves and leaf buds, and wrap them around a dried flower – chrysanthemum, jasmine, lily or hibiscus, which is put in the middle. Amaranth flowers, lavender, clover, calendula or peony can be also added to highlight the flavour. Chinese wanderers have told me that this tea can be not only sphere-shaped (the sphere being the symbol of love in China) but also ring-, Chinese lantern- or even Dragon-shaped, which is very precious and rare! But my dream is to see the unique “Birth of Pearl”!

…Having unfolded the blankets, we were sitting on the benches, drinking tea out of bowls, when Yule asked, “So who will be our Scheherazade for tonight?”

His question caused sudden confusion in our ranks, but after several seconds of violent whispering and hissing – “I won’t! It’s your turn!” “No, it’s your turn, I had already…” – Tin-Tin cleared his throat and said, “I’ll tell you the tale of soft oatmeal cookies … So …” He cleared his throat once again and started his tale.

 The Tale of Oatmeal Cookies

 It was such a night in the beginning of July when there is a light glow in the sky till midnight and it’s getting light at four in the morning. Still now it was thick darkness. Not a star twinkled in the sky and the darkness was so dense that a foal, resting afield, could not discern his own nostrils, and to prove the sheer fact of his existence, he sniffed and immediately snorted loudly, as the fragrant aroma of fresh grass tickled his nose.

All day long he had been rolling in sweet fields, his mouth full of grass, plunging into the sea of oat to spring out of it and again scamper and roister recklessly in the grassland.

Only when the sun set, he lay down by himself, a bit far from his Mum, near the very edge of the oatmeal field. Juicy herbs were his bed and lush grass was his pillow, over which his chestnut mane spread. He was being gradually overcome with slumber, when a strange sound made him perk up his ears… The slightest breeze wandered in the ripe oats, and the field stirred and waved as the wind brushed it along…

Having calmed down, the foal drifted into sleep and smiled sweetly in his dream, as he saw himself bathing in a river flowing with milk, and rolling in its honey banks, through his half-closed eyelashes came a glow of light. Fully awoken, he opened his eyes wide, just in time to see that one by one three balls of light hopped in the air out of nowhere, flashing in circles above the endless field. The foal got to his feet and thrust into the sea of oat, which stood quiet and still, talking in its sleep with the wind.

Slowly the foal sneaked in the direction of the lights, drawing the oat ears with his head and hiding under the infinite sky, and when he finally approached the balls, he saw that these were … three fairies.

Pink, lettuce and bright-yellow-winged girls, the size of a human palm, gowned in a trapezium-shaped lettuce tunic, rose-shaped garment with many folds and a sunny circle dress correspondingly, they were hovering above the oats, their transparent wings shining brightly in the dark.

Or more precisely, the lettuce-winged fairy was hovering above the oats, drawing grains out of the oat ears, while the yellow and pink girls hung in the air, watching her working, having folded their arms in yellow puff sleeves on a bright chest and having propped rosy blooming cheeks with tiny fists respectively.

At last the yellow-winged fairy’s patience gave out and she asked, “Chloe, could you please explain what you are doing? The Queen of Elves has announced that she will grant a handful of magic blossom dust to the person who brings her soft oatmeal cookies! We need to hurry up to bake these cookies and – ”

“Leigh, you have answered your question yourself. We need to bake soft oatmeal cookies and how are you going to bake them without the oats? By the way, oat grains need to be hulled and ground to make oatmeal, so tonight we all will have plenty of work to do!”

“And oatmeal has such a delicious nutty flavour…” the rose-bud fairy drawled in a dreamy voice.

“Fiore,” Leigh came down on her, “what are you dreaming of again? Let's get to work!”

And they got to work in full swing. The fairies were hulling, grinding, rolling and singing a song:

 Seed of oat – inside the husk…

“How to pound, would you ask?”

Mortar would be shell of nut,

Pestle-rush – the groat is ground!

 Their voices were so sweet that they resembled the golden bells, gently ringing. The foal neighed softly in rhythm with the music, as he liked the melody and wanted to join in the song.

“Chloe, Leigh, look! A chestnut foal is in the oat! He is so jolly!” exclaimed Fiore tenderly.

“Certainly, Fiore, a pretty foal,” said Leigh absently, busy holding a heavy nut shell, full of rolled oats, “Chloe, you know that we need to find some stones or a slab to place dough balls on and get the fire lit to bake them?”

“And we need raisins and chocolate to add to the dough…” sighed Fiore dreamfully.

“Er… maybe Stonehenge?” asked Chloe, her voice not sounding confident.

“Let it be Stonehenge,” Leigh fumbled about in her pocket and drew out a handful of some pharmacist’s powder, shining in the darkness like magic pollen. She strewed some pollen into the air so that they all got veiled with the shining cloud and cried out, “Stonehenge!” And the moment she did so, they all disappeared. But they didn’t pay attention to the fact that when she was sprinkling the shining pollen in the air, some specks of it spilled down straight at the foal and the next second he felt some strange whirling sensation…

 The end

***

It must be the middle of the night. I want to sleep so much. And Tin-Tin’s voice is so lulling…

When I opened my eyes, a bit refreshed, Tin-Tin said, “The end.” Blimey, I’ve slept through the tale… Meanwhile, Yule, being open-mouthed, was staring at Tin-Tin, and Tin-Tin and Max were staring at Yule in reply, evidently awaiting for his approval of the tale and readiness to bake soft oatmeal cookies for us tomorrow.

I elbowed Tin-Tin in his side and whispered, “What have you told him to give him such a stunned face?”

“My Mum used to invent crazy endings to bedtime fairy tales and I recalled one of them…”

Finally, Yule closed his mouth, blinked his eyes and uttered, “Well, it’s late, I’ll show you to your suite.” He stood up and then slightly bowed to the storyteller, “Tin-tin, thank you for your tale, it was fascinating…”

He conducted us to the well-stout oaken door, turned the handle and pushed it. We stepped in and the glorious view of a summer night orchard and meadow outside the high hedge opened before our eyes…

“Wow!” came out of my mouth – it was evidently July or August there, as ripe fruits pulled down the branches of apple, pear and plum trees. Little yellow-bright balls of light, resembling light bulbs, were hovering and floating in the hot and dark evening air, creating slightest chime, adding to the chirring din of grasshoppers and dragonflies. If got entangled in the stalks of the luxuriant flowers, poured by tiny fountain jets, streaming up out of the ground, the light balls blew out of the tangles and danced against the night sky. And when I stretched my arm, trying to catch one of them, it jumped and hopped away, rotating and spinning in the air…

“Make yourself comfortable, choose your sleeping place.” With a wide gesture of his right hand Yule circled the entire orchard, “when the lights go out, the curtains are drawn.” And with these words he retreated.

I turned round the corner to see what was behind the wall, containing the door through which we came in, hoping to see there a front side of the manor. Still I found the opposite side of the same wood-panelled wall, decorated with seascapes and bright sconces, the only difference from its other side being the absence of a door. A lonely wall stood vertically in the centre of the orchard.

I looked behind me – there opened a view on the narrow path, starting from the gate in the centre of a neatly cut blackthorn hedge and leading through the open country to the redwood where the pines outlined sharply against the light-coloured summer evening sky, almost touching the moon with their heads. I stood still for some seconds, breezing the night pine-smelling air, and then returned to my friends.

Two white beds were standing near the wall on the grass and a hammock was stretched between two apple trees. Tin-Tin went to the far bed and Max fell into the hammock and starting rocking at once, pushing off from the grass plot with his leg.

“Guys, how do you sleep here? Don’t you freeze in the night in the open air?”

“Nope, the nights are really warm. It’s July, not August still,” yawned Tin-Tin, fluffing his pillow.

Suddenly I recalled Urai. “You know, this Dragon story reminds me of something… I can't think of what exactly…”

“You’re mental, you’re just inventing all this. What can it remind you of?” Tin-Tin said sleepily, “Look, it’s after midnight. Go to bed and believe me, you will have a great sleep here!” And with these words he collapsed into his bed and snored immediately.

I got into the remaining bed and tumbled in between the sheets smelling of lilac. Not visible, thin like the web and soft like the gauze, the lightest canopy was floating in the air, securing us from the rain and cold. I threw the curtain aside and looked at the stars, and they winked back at me. I didn’t remember how I fell asleep and in my dream I saw my Dad with his usual long blond hair, gathered in a ponytail. I looked at his hands – there were golden strings at the wrists, ingrown into his skin…

[fadingfartconnoisseur]

Adventure Activities in Ljubljana and Around – Hiking and Biking Slovenia’s Nature

Ljubljana is described as “a small capital with a green soul”, which means there’s plenty more to visually feast on than the gorgeous old town architecture. Central Slovenia is a blanket of nature filled with lakes, hills and mountains, and since 70% of Slovenian’s live in the countryside, the cities simply slot into this nature haven.

Like most city trips I take, I combine my time with exploration outside of it, taking in the best of urban sightseeing and active rural exploration for alternative feels and views of this region. With plenty of tempting outdoor adventure activities in Ljubljana right on its doorstep, it wasn’t hard not to get a taste of wider Slovenian landscape and culture.

Day trip activities in Ljubljana – Velika Planina Shepherd Settlement

Velika Planina is the oldest and largest shepherd settlement in Europe nestled in the Slovenian Alps. It’s said that some of the structures date back to the 16th century and today it is still home to the shepherds that return here in the summer and keep old traditions alive. One of the most notable things here is the unique architecture of the huts, which you can wander around freely in the seasons where the shepherds have departed.

It’s a real taste of rural life not far from Ljubljana. It takes around one hour to get to the town of Kamnik from the city, and from here to take a cable car up into the Kamnik Alps (or hike!).

Pristine, picture perfect scenes await as you walk towards the settlement. Look out for the golden roof amongst the architecturally vivid silvery grey structures.

Stopping for tea and cake (as in the Slovenian way), we were able to learn about the tradition of Trnič hard cheese that is made only on Velika Planina. This long-standing tradition is a symbol of love, and there’s a story as to why the cheese is shaped to represent a woman’s breasts. The herdsmen would make the cheese while working on the high plains, made from a mixture of cottage cheese, cream and salt and kneaded together.

The pair of cheeses would be engraved with symbols and patterns and left to dry and harden, and upon their return in the autumn at the end of grazing season where they would have worked for months, the shepherd would give one to their beloved as a proof of their love and fidelity. The other they would keep for themselves. If the woman accepted the cheese, it meant they were officially together. Note to self if a Slovenian man offers me cheese.

Seeing that the tradition of this very unique place was dying out, the Taste Kamnik project decided to revive it and preserve it, training new generations on how to make (and decorate) the cheese, which is still used in traditional restaurants today, even where a modern cuisine twist is served.

If driving to the area, the bottom cable car station is located in the Kamniška Bistrica Valley, next to the Kamp Alpe campsite. If you want to take on longer hiking routes and stay over night, there is the Zeleni Rob guesthouse next to the upper cable car station. Local guides can also accompany you here.

Climbing activities in Ljubljana – Šmarna Gora Peak

What glorious feeling to know there is a small mountain nearby to climb, a stand-alone giant mound in the region known as Gorenjska. Šmarna Gora sits 664m above sea level in the north easternmost part of Ljubljana and was less than a half an hour drive to its base to start the ascent. Legend has it that it is nothing more than a pile of rocks made by a giant called Hrust, and when the local people didn’t like it he got mad and stamped on it, making the two ‘humps’ we see today.

It takes a round one-hour to climb at a moderate pace, and a little fatigued from city wandering and six hours of biking the day before, I was a little slower. Plus, clambering on tree roots and through a forest of high-topped trees meant lots of temptation to stop and take in the untouched nature, from floor to ceiling.

While not just a religious pilgrimage, the climb leads to the ‘summit’ where you’ll find one of the countries most important churches. Šmarna Gora is named after Virgin Mary (Šmaren meaning ‘Feast of the Assumption’). It is said she chose the hill as the place of worship and the Christian Church (said to date back to the 13th or 14th century) was built in her memory. Even if you are not a frequent church visitor for the cultural aspect, it’s worth a visit just for the frescos – a colourful palate and impressive display of artistry depicting the life of Mary and her Assumption. It has been decorated and restored since the 1800s after a new church built in the early 1700s due to the number of pilgrims over the years.

In the 15th century, a defence wall was built around the church to defend it from Turkish raids, where locals sought shelter. You’ll find the bells in the church tower, converted from a watchtower.

A traditional lunch at Gostilna Ledinek set to a panoramic view is the ultimate reward for the climb, joining other avid hikers who come here for the Slovenian tea, and dishes like ‘žganci’ (boiled lumps of buckwheat flour served with little cubes of fat and a bowl of sour milk).

It tasted much better than it looks and it’s a rite of passage to dig into this carb-load when you arrive (honestly). Leave room for the melt-in-the-mouth blueberry strudel. I think it may be the best strudel I’ve had (sorry, Austria!).

Šmarna Gora is not a complex hike and is easy to tackle solo. Get a taxi from the city to its base.

However, there are local guides who can accompany you on hikes such as those to Šmarna Gora. All can be booked from the Tourism Office in the heart of Ljubljana Old Town on Stritarjeva ulica (street).

Cycling activities in Ljubljana – The Marshes and Lake Podpeč

I met cycle guide master, Tine who runs various half and full day biking tours from cultural, culinary and high adventure. He’s sparky, fun and full of facts to accompany the natural sights. I went to the Iški Vintgar Gorge tour, extending it to a full day in a 20km+ round-trip, through Slovenian countryside, typical villages, and stopping off at gorges, lakes, national parks and waterfalls.

Continuing things in true Ljubljana design style, the very first stop was to the Church of St. Michael in the marshes, designed by none other than the father of all remarkable design here – Jože Plečnik. The stairs on its façade look like a puzzle, but actually lead up to the belfry and the interior, made entirely of wood, has elements of Japanese temple design. Out in the marshes, it certainly makes a stand and remains as one of Plečnik’s early and original architectural creations.

From marshes to woodland, we cycled to the Iški Morost Nature Reserve, through the traditional village of Brest towards the Iški Vintgar gorge on the River Iška. Both a good reprieve from the sun and a short break from the biking, this stop was an introduction to the conservation practices in Slovenia, and the preserved environments surrounding the rural habitation. If you have time there is a 1.3-kilometre nature trail where you can learn more about its biodiversity.

The third part of the trip was the highlight – arriving at Podpeč Lake. Slovenia is known for it’s late and while Bled dominates, the smaller ones are still stunning.

Podpeč Lake is one of the deepest natural lakes in all of Slovenia and against the green and underneath a piercing blue sky, it sparkles and calls for you to take some precious moments to sit, relax, contemplate, or jump onto its inviting waters (just as you’ll see the locals do in rejuvenation).

Alas, after relaxation and lunch at the lake, refuelling called for more adventure and it was time to hike up the 25km path of St. Ana Hill for panoramic views over the wetlands and looking out towards Ljubljana. On a clear day you can even spot the Alps! 

Guide: Tine Zupančič from LB&T Vegov hram (www.vegovhram)

Hiking tours run from from 15 April to 30 October. Hiking tours take place throughout the year, weather permitting. All tours require a minimum of two persons to operate and work to all difficulty levels.  

Prices, which start from €36, include bike and equipment, lunch and return transfer from Ljubljana. I took the Iški Vintgar gorge tour and extended it to an all day trip (which is possible).

Ljubljana, surrounded by nature, is the perfect base from which to springboard into wider, countryside-laden Slovenia. Slovenia is so small it is said you can visit any point of the country in a day, so why not get a taste for the different landscapes using the capital as a base?

Things to Know:

How to Get to Ljubljana and Around

Well connected by rail, European buses like Flix and by plane, the Slovenian company GoOpti also operates car transfers between neighbouring cities and neighbouring country airports in Germany, Austria, Croatia and Italy. We took the GoOpti transfer from Graz to Ljubljana and I also took it back to Vienna from Ljubljana, where you share a car with other travellers booked on the same journey or route. You are reminded about your journey via text both 24 hours before and when your vehicle has arrived.

Where to Stay in Ljubljana as a Base

I stayed in Hotel Gallaria, a part of the Old Town and on its quiet fringes.  It sits on the corner of some restaurants and coffee shops (which are open until late!), and is a five minute walk to the very centre of the old town where the action is.

The former prison turned design hostel in the alternative area of Metlekova is called Celica Art Hostel, with 20 unique cell rooms to choose from. It’s five minutes walk from the main train station and 10 to the very heart of town.

For those looking for luxury, the 4 star Grand Union Hotel, just metres from Preseren Square and the Triple Bridge. From the early 20th century, it is the oldest in the city, built during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. It is considered to be one of the most significant Art Nouveau architectural structures in central Europe.

What time of the Year is Best to Visit Ljubljana?

Ljubljana is considered to have a ‘continental climate’ making it both a winter haven, given the rolling green that surrounds it, and with beautiful Mediterranean climate in the summer months.

For further information:

To plan your day trips and excursions from Ljubljana, visit the Ljubljana tourism website for further information and temptation.

My trip to Ljubljana was a combination of a #EuroCityTrip project to highlight the city as a ‘cool neighbour’ to Austria’s second largest city of Graz in partnership with both city tourism offices.

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