#and we have a BIG space! the cafe’s at a nature preserve. land is what we have. it is spread out

[fingertipsmp3]

Looking at the rota app thinking well. Tomorrow is going to be fascinating

[stereksecretsanta]

Merry Christmas, @flynnifox!

The prompt by @flynnifox:

I really like soulmates, and please fluff as it's christmas, coffee shop au's are also great, I like wolf Derek, werewolves are known, all the AU's, did I say please fluff? I totally love slow burn, kissing, nipping, scentmarking, sassy Derek, sassy Stiles, Alpha Derek, having to share a bed, snow, ice-skating

Here's to hoping that I blended these elements together in a satisfying manner that captures the soulmates + scents + sass + fluffy adorableness. Most of that brought by Derek's red eartips (because he's embarrassed so frequently).

Read on AO3

*****

Chocolate and Notebooks

Stiles pulls his eyes from the road, taking a glance at the clock as the trees zip past in the dark and chilly evening. One glance at the clock confirms his suspicions.

"It's 5:43 in the morning and this is a very dumb time to be driving through unfamiliar territory." He tilts his head, as if considering an argument. "And yet, we're perfectly safe because the shields are up and the path is true." His head cocks to the other side. "And yet, we are definitely feeling sleepiness come on." He hopes the next town is near, and avoids the part of his mind that would happily confirm for him that he's getting closer to his destination.

Built-in GPS is a great tool for a spark, but it can take the mystery and adventure out of life if he indulges the spark too much. And despite what others might say, he's not entirely convinced that there isn't a limited amount of magic available to any one person or to all beings and he feels responsible for not flaunting his magic with every waking moment.

"Beacon Hills: Next two exits" reflects back at him in bright white text on a shiny green background. The name sounds like an omen. A good one he hopes, and a town with a good little history, he double-hopes. Can't be too careful when there are many town that are just full of weird and sometimes bad things. Hunters are less likely to come make a mess in a peaceful town than they are in one with a reputation for trouble. Beacon Hills is, as far as he dimly recalls, not a name that's appeared in association with anything terrible in the last many years. He and whatever supernaturals may be around should be fine, so long as nobody upsets the balance.

Which is exactly the problem: The spark that constitutes the magical expression of Stiles is actually very interested in mischief. Supremely interested in making some things very much tougher for Stiles, and he tries to remind himself it's also done a lot of good for him over the years. A nudge here to take this turn, and a thought of just stopping and waiting somewhere on the sidewalk for a minute can both lead to finding old friends and good times, or missing a falling chunk of the facade from some ancient brick building. He can't often tell ahead of time despite pleading with himself to make it work.

He's decided that Beacon Hills has to be a good place, with good WiFi and good coffee and all that stuff. Nature is also calling more insistently against his bladder and he really hopes there's someplace open this early with internet service and decent restrooms.

"If I find that nobody in this town is awake at this terrible hour, and that they haven't got decent WiFi, I'm going to write them a very bad review and hex their coffeemaker. There are standards for how these things should work and that last place was a disaster!"

Of the four diners in the last town, some eight hours ago down the highway that specifically avoids the big urban centers, he found no curly fries on any of the menus. They seemed completely unimpressed with the idea of tater tots and he considered hexing them in some way or other but ended up just snagging food from the hot case at a convenience store and busting a move out of town.

When the first exit for Beacon Hills comes up he passes without exiting. It seemed too wild, like it was a regional wildspace, or something. Maybe this was more of an industrial exit for logging and whatever else they do here. The next exit surely showed promise.

Quietly in the back of his mind, a tiny version of Leslie Nielsen's voice replied, "And don't call me Shirley."

Erica had been ready for several minutes. Derek's routine for how to open the store properly had been whittled down to just 12 minutes for the cleaning prep, six minutes to get all the food out and presentable, and another full minute just to go around and make sure everything was in order. Derek usually closed the shop up, but today claimed he was feeling restless and arrived before she had and was already bustling around.

"Derek, you pay me to worry about these things. Why are you even here?" She watched as Derek redid everything she had completed already so he could be sure it met his extremely specific standards that are in no way related to what actually makes customers happy. Well, he's the boss, so he can ask for what he wants, but she's going to do it the way she knows is best when he's back on his regular routine.

She hollers at him from the cafe's dining area while Derek is in the back organizing and cleaning things in the kitchen he'd definitely organized and cleaned the night before. "You should go run out in the preserve or something. You have too much energy to be in a confined space before 6 AM on this day or any day." Her supernaturally-enhanced hearing helped her catch every syllable in reply.

"I'm here because it's my place and I don't really need a reason to be here, now, do I? I can come whenever I like."

Erica smirked.

"Shut your pie-hole, Reyes, or I'm switching you to the lunch shift and giving your boyfriend the morning."

"He'll hate you for that."

"I'm the alpha. I can take it."

At Erica's snicker, Derek growls to himself. As the alpha, his hearing is even more enhanced, but he can also feel her perpetual sniggering through the pack bond. He tells himself he should be used to it by now but he just can't. Wolves aren't monsters, they need to behave in a respectable way.

"Are you lecturing me mentally on how wolves should behave respectably in polite society? I mean, I know these customers and though some of them are gems, some are definitely not polite and don't belong out in society."

"Erica," Derek says as he enters the room. "Keep it down. You don't want anyone to overhear you talking trash about others."

"It's three minutes to six and I'm going to open up."

"It's too early. We open at six. Don't mess with people's expectations."

"Anyone here this early is here because they have no expectations, just a demand for coffee, bossman. You really don't have anything to worry about."

Erica walks to the windows and turns the lights on in the displays. She admires the way the colorful borders around the windows twinkle in the early air. They cast bright splashes of light into the intersection, visible from any direction of the street. Derek does fine display work and has made a version of the town in a huge diorama lit with tiny LEDs in the windows of the shops and homes, and decorated with the tiniest versions of people Derek knows. Customers, family, random people who caught Derek's eye are all represented in some way in the display.

She thinks it's the softest, brightest, most wonderful thing Derek does and he pretends to everyone like it's no big deal. He's the most ridiculous rough-edged marshmallow-soft man she's ever met. When she told Boyd about it, he agreed with a knowing nod of his head before he returned to mixing beverages for the fine residents and visitors who came through the door.

The subtle change in the air alerted her to potential danger, and she spun around to catch Derek standing at the door, looking confused and surprised at the man standing there.

"Uhh, if you're not open, that's fine, but I really need to use a restroom. Can I come in anyway to take care of the call of nature? She's been really, really going hard these last few miles."

Erica's snort escapes unintended. The man at the door snaps to look at her and grins, holding a thumbs-up. He gives her a sort of look that says, "Is this guy broken?" and Erica replies with a look that yes, totally broken, and harmless.

"Hey, welcome to Beacon Hills! We're opening right now and the bathroom is right down there. Go for it."

The man exhales and seems to weaken for a moment before taking off at a fast walk between the chairs and to where Erica had pointed. "Close your mouth and the door, Derek. I hear the landlord hates when people waste energy heating the outside."

The door closes with a click at the same moment Derek's jaw slams shut. She watches him transform from bare surprise to guarded watcher in an instant. "Watch out. I didn't hear him at the door when I want to go put the mat out."

"You still have that in your hands, Derek." She looks at him as he seems to realize the truth. Derek opens the door and half throws it out, trusting it to land however it lands as Derek seems to listen to the back area.

"Are you listening to him pee?"

"No, I'm—" He flashes his eyes at her. There's a visceral reaction for any beta to the flashing of one's alpha's eyes, but Derek does it so often they've all become somewhat immune to the power of it all. Derek's mother warns him about overusing his strength when a simple word will do, and while Erica see's he's gotten better with her coaching of him, he's still got a long way to go before Talia's advice actually makes a solid difference for him. "I can't hear anything. Nothing at all."

"He's probably just shielded, Derek. There are a lot of good reasons for that, especially when traveling alone."

Derek is a good-hearted alpha, and he's young, but Beacon Hills has been stable for long enough that his parents leaving him in charge isn't a disaster. Talia and her husband are consulting for another pack in Idaho and Derek's putting his training to use at home. The pack in Idaho had lost their alpha and Emissary in an attack of some kind, and they some serious help getting back on track. The mission, as it were, will be for a couple of years, but they're not far away and so the territory isn't really at risk even if Derek has some trouble to deal with.

"I don't think he's a threat, Derek. He seems kind of fun.." Which Derek would have considered if he wasn't being totally weird about this guy.

"Anyone who can sneak up on us is a potential threat, Erica. I shouldn't have to remind you of that." Indeed, Erica flashed right back to the moment she and Boyd finally returned to the territory after having been abducted by a nutty grandpa hunter and his daughter.

"Yeah, but like you also said, we can't just go in being suspicious of everyone. What if he's one of the good ones? You're the guy in charge, so people need to know they can come to you. He's probably not even aware this is our territory."

"We can't know that."

"I can just ask him, dude." Derek looks at her with an expression of disgust. She's solid in her sense of this new guy and his not-at-all-threatening intentions. Whoever he may be, or whatever he may be, he's good people. And he's not a werewolf, so there's no direct threat there. Derek's had his heart broken and his trust trampled on extremely effectively, so he's far less willing to consider his instincts and defaults to threat mode whenever something both supernatural and unexpected comes around. She regards him for a moment.

"I think we'll be okay. I'll find out about him and you hang in the back and listen, okay?" She considers for a moment. "What do you think he likes to drink?"

"I have no idea," he mutters and heads to the back room. Derek's taking things down to DEFCON 3 from DEFCON 2, which seems like a mark in her favor. She's not his first beta, but she does seem to be able to get him to think about other stuff sometimes when other people can't. When anyone happens to notice she says it's her brilliant curls, but the blonde really does seem to get his concern in a way the rest of the pack don't. Except for Boyd, and he's too busy being silent to really help Derek so directly. She lets a smile fill her face and nods to herself. Derek is trusting them more. He's been training them hard, and it's working, and she sets herself to figuring out who the new guy is and what new guy is up to.

She forgets for a moment how weird he was when he opened the door.

Stiles throws his bag onto the bench in one of the high-backed booths with a good line of sight to both the counter and the entryway and heads to the counter.

"What can I get you?" Erica says in her warmest 6-am customer service voice.

"Well, I think I want a coffee, but I also need to sleep soon, so that's probably a bad idea. I mean, caffeine can put me to sleep if I have a little, but it's been a while since I've taken my medicine and my ADD is probably going to fight me for sleep if I don't indulge in some delicious beverage action."

Erica laughs. Stiles beams. "I'm here with the jokes, folks."

"Oh, yeah, I can tell that about you."

Too quietly for normal hearing she hears, "Ask him who he is!" in an urgent tone from the back. Erica rolls her eyes briefly, making sure the visitor doesn't see it. She growls subvocally.

"Welcome! Sorry you had such a weird first experience with my boss at the door. He's not normally a weirdo."

"Eh, I'm not worried. I'm plenty weird. But he is okay? I mean, he seemed kind of... surprised?" Somehow, in some manner she didn't interpret, she heard the meaning behind it. The boss seemed both surprised and actually afraid of something, and the new guy had picked up on it.

Erica beams. "Yeah, we get that all the time. Boss is a total weirdo." Derek growls in the back and sets something hard against the table.

Stiles glances in the back then makes eye contact with Erica. "Is he alright?" he mouths at her.

She shrugs her shoulders. She isn't about to explain the weirdness on display right now. Derek's never been like this before.

"I am not sure he slept at all last night. He normally works the closing shift. I'm here to open, but when he needs pre-dawn fun, I'm apparently the one he needs to hang around."

"Oh, really?" Stiles raises an eyebrow.

"Oh, no, not like that. I'm taken. Boyd's a really good guy and he's not into sharing."

Stiles had glanced again to the back room but that comment brings his full attention right back to her. "Oh, I'm sorry, I wasn't trying to flirt! I am just like this all the time."

Erica leans back. "Hear that, Derek? He's like this all the time." She adopts a theatrical pose for a moment. "Oh, gosh, I'm sorry, I've completely forgotten to introduce myself. I'm Erica, and that's Derek."

Stiles doesn't miss a beat. "I'm Stiles, and you're one of the betas, then? Is he the only alpha around? It seems a little..." Stiles seems to taste the air, sort of. Erica isn't sure how to describe the way he takes an open-mouthed whiff and kind of lets his eyes go blurry. "Oh, I see. Got it."

"What do you think you get, Stiles?" Erica says with a dash of suspicion. She'd heard Derek freeze in the kitchen, his heart racing now. She tries to be a cooler customer than her alpha and hopes that Stiles isn't offended. She's not really sure what a spark is, or what they do, but Derek's got an idea and it's shocked the hell out of him for whatever reason.

"Eeek, yeah, sorry! Sorry. I find I do this all the time, and usually on accident, if I haven't prepared ahead of time. I'm a Spark, and I'm really just here to find a quiet place to rest and drink something hot and warm. I'd like to write for a bit in the booth," he says, gesturing with a huge swing of his arm to the booth.

Erica nods at him. "I am pretty sure we can accommodate that request and we won't even have to do some paperwork for it," she makes a show of stage whispering, "Since my alpha is hiding in the back instead of greeting important guests like he's supposed to do."

This time the growl is clear to everyone. Erica smiles wickedly. "Alpha Hale, I believe you have some alpha-level responsibilities here with regard to our guest. Don't you think you should get out here and be polite?" She winks at Stiles, who returns the wink with a laugh he tries to stifle behind his fist.

Derek comes out and now Stiles looks at him without saying anything. He seems to close-off a bit, looking at the alpha in his black shirt and forest-green apron with the cafe's logo on it.

Erica notices the two of them and then grabs her phone from the counter and stepping out of the way.

"Stiles, you're welcome to be here. We have no restrictions against visitors," and by this Stiles heard between the words that the alpha meant. "of the supernatural variety." Stiles hadn't met an alpha so formal as this before. He mentally knocked his hand against his temple to try to recall proper protocols. He was not successful.

"Hello, Hale. I mean, alpha. Gah. This isn't going well. I don't do many formal introductions and I'm sorry to mess it all up. I hope you're not offended."

"No offense taken." Derek looks at the counter and then at Stiles. "Do you know what you'd like to have to drink this morning?"

"I hadn't decided that, though I imagine you already heard." Erica and Derek watch him as he catches himself glancing back. "And crap! I left my shields up without regard to any possible werewolf packs in the area. I'm sorry!" he said emphatically. "I would have taken them down in the parking lot if I'd have been thinking. It's been a long trip, and again, I—" he waves in the direction of the restrooms in the back and at that moment Erica and Derek both got a whiff of the spark without his protections. It took a moment to realize he was still talking.

"...distracted, on top of that, I've got ADD. You know how it goes? Wow, this probably explains why Alpha Hale had some trouble deciding what to do with me when I was at the door." Erica couldn't tell if Stiles noticed Derek was taking deep breaths, seemingly to scent him over and over again, which our staunch Alpha Hale never, ever does.

It was the, "You can call me Derek," said in a very warm and cozy tone that persuaded Erica to get the pack here. Whatever was going on needed witnesses, and she wanted to be sure someone else could verify this totally bizarre behavior by their alpha. Stiles didn't lie about being a spark, though if he were doing sexy mojo on the boss she doesn't know if she could tell. The scent of magic in the air happened only after he released the shield, and even hen he's been fading into the background. She snaps a picture of them with her phone and sent a broadcast message to the pack. Derek's phone vibrated, and he subconsciously pulled it out and put it on silent, no vibration, as he continued talking with Stiles.

Something is odd here, and Derek's doing things with his eyebrows that are perfectly adorable. Erica wants to find out what's going on, and she wants witnesses. While Derek and Stiles worked out the beverage order for a specialty hot chocolate, Stiles had also talked himself into a muffin and some veggie snacks. She's been providing summary notes to the pack and comes to a conclusion about this situation that she debates momentarily, then shares with the pack.

She's certain that Derek is deeply smitten by this newcomer.

By 6:45 the pack had all arrived, even those who had other jobs they were supposed to be getting ready for. Derek seems to have blithely missed the fact that the pack had arrived at the cafe and had been huddling together at one of the larger tables getting the play-by-play from Erica about whatever each had missed before they arrived.

Stiles had developed his senses such that he noticed Erica noticing them, and noticed that there were more wolves coming. Their energy wasn't hostile, but it was actively engaged. As he talked with Derek, he couldn't help but wonder why the alpha didn't seem to notice the rest of them. During a break in their chat about a particularly delightful staff he'd made friends with at a diner in Nevada, Stiles nodded to where the pack was sitting and waited for Derek to follow his gaze.

"Why is your pack here, Derek?"

"I don't know." He seemed surprised at not noticing. Derek looked at them and noticed that yes, everyone had arrived. He gave a glance at Scott who was loosely affiliated, being an alpha in his own right but mostly disinterested in claiming territory and building his pack.

"Don't you have work, Scott?"

"I'm sure Deaton won't mind that I came for the show at the cafe." Stiles laughed, and Derek looked at him, confused. "What show?"

Stiles isn't sure how to break this to him, so he tries to ease the wolf into the idea in a roundabout sort of way.

"Derek, what time is it?"

Derek glances at the clock above the exit. "It's almost seven. Why?"

"When did I arrive?"

"Just before we opened, I think." He scrunches his eyebrows. Stiles smiles, having already started learning the way the wolf's expressive eyebrows communicate thoughts he doesn't speak with his words. "Yeah, I opened the door and you were there."

"So you've been here talking with me for an hour and haven't noticed?"

Derek looks at Stiles, and the pack, and then moves to leave. Stiles gently sets his hand over Dereks' own hand, interrupting his sudden (and fearful?) escape.

He opens his backpack and pulls out a notebook. He then slides out of the booth and heads to the pack table, and pulls up chairs for him and Derek to join them. He sets the book down.

Wrapped around the book is a worn leather cover. It's got a few scratches and stains, and it is soft to the touch. Stiles loves this book, and as he holds it up for the pack and explains the leatherwork. Derek looks at the cover, surprised. Erica brings over a plate of cookies from the display and they show the same triple-spiral pattern, a triskelion, curled into itself in a familiar form.

Erica seats herself in the lap of one of the pack members. "Good morning, Boyd" Boyd nods to Stiles, unfazed by the recognition. Derek looks surprised that Stiles knows Boyd's name, and even more so that his packmate seems unbothered by the way Stiles already knows his name. Stiles says hello to each of the pack members. He gets to Scott and instead of "hello," Scott asks, "Why does your book have Derek's tattoo on it?"

Derek finds himself flushing and he's not half-sure why. The triskelion is a common symbol in supernatural circles. They've got it on their cookies, as the plate suggests. He grabs one of them and takes a bite. Stiles laughed at Scott and confesses that he sometimes blurts questions out, too. When Scott beams back at him, Derek sees how the two of them will become fast friends.

Then he tilts his head to the side. The pack takes notice, and then so does Stiles, who has turned to him with a sly smile.

"I hope you will allow me to share something with you all that I haven't shared with anyone, not even my dad." They nod, and then Stiles looks at Derek and raises an eyebrow.

"Go ahead, I guess. Not sure what you need our permission for."

Stiles grins at Erica, who knows something special is about to happen that will make all everyone's grumbling about being up early disappear in an instant.

"At three years old the little wolf, with his bare little feet and scruffy face and pointed ears, was poking around at the wild things in the area near his home. He couldn't control his shift yet, so sometimes he was half wolfy and half boy, and he barely noticed."

Stiles tilted the book at Derek who took a look at the image and said nothing, but his heart skipped a beat and his eyes opened wide.

"And the little wolf saw a lizard. The lizard told him that they could be friends, but that they needed to learn how, because one day, the little wolf might have to remind the lizard who his friends were."

Stiles didn't glance at Jackson, but a couple of the others did. Danny set his hand on Jackson's shoulder and squeezed gently.

"The little wolf did not understand the lizard. He asked the lizard how he would know him in the future. The lizard said they were family, but they didn't know that yet."

Scott's excitement overruled his better judgment again. "Jackson was a kanima and we found out that he was Derek's cousin!"

Stiles glanced at Derek and nodded. Derek avoided looking directly at anyone, but remained attentive in his listening. When Stiles continued, he looked at Jackson and smiled slightly. They had a rough go of things at first, but they've come a long way. Jackson really has worked on letting his fears go, the ones that fed the kanima and he's becoming a better man. Derek likes to think the experience has humbled him, too. After all, it isn't every day you discover that a dangerous were-creature was basically possessed by the darker side of his own fears and ended up doing some pretty awful things until they got it all worked out.

Jackson is reliable now, and Derek is one of the people he sends texts to when he is looking for advice. Derek considers it good progress that Jackson doesn't just ask about pack advice anymore, and instead about real-life stuff, like running a business and all that stuff.

Stiles has moved to a new story and Derek catches his name again. He inhales once more, and Stiles stops to scoot a little closer.

"Oh, sorry, this one is out of order. I'm not sure Derek will remember it." Derek sets his hand on Stiles' knee almost as an afterthought. It is as if being with Stiles is a thing that has already happened, and they've been together for decades. They haven't, but it's so easy to believe it, to trust Stiles, and to trust Stiles with his pack.

"When the little wolf had his first birthday, his asshole uncle creepy pants..." ("That's exactly who he is" slips Lydia under her breath, echoed by "yeahs" around the table.) "...gave little wolf a box. Little wolf was a boy at this time, almost never being wolfy at all. The box in front of him had a very interesting handle. Uncle creepypants showed little wolf boy that he could spin the handle around and around and listen to the music the box played. Little wolf boy was so excited! He squealed with delight and turned the handle in his tiny fist and laughed himself silly."

"But when the box clicked and the lid opened to reveal an ugly clown on a spring, the surprise of the moment caused little wolf boy to change, with little sharp teeth and little sharp claws and he knocked the little box over with his mightiest growl." Derek chuckled at this. The image was adorable even if he still has a thing about clowns."

("Derek's got a thing about clowns." Scott chimes in. "Perhaps we should not keep interrupting Stiles, Scott?" Lydia said with a glare. Scott was suitably threatened into silence and put his hand over his mouth as a reminder.)

"After little wolf hit the toy he ran to his father. The man was tall, friendly, and even for a human he was strong. This man was not a wolf like the little wolf was, but he seemed just as strong as everyone else to the little wolf and Derek felt himself scooped into his father's arms and held close as he cried about the toy. His father soothed him, promising to damage his uncle's personal things in retribution for such a prank. Little wolf was happy, and though he dreamed of bad clowns for a week, he also dreamed that he and his dad would fight them together."

The pack seemed to adore the stories, and Stiles kept reading. Derek would have preferred if the pack never heard some of these stories because many of them revealed parts of his life he'd forgotten about, or didn't want to talk about. Stiles was a good storyteller, though, and he found that as he wrapped his arm around the other man's shoulders, and felt the lean muscular strength there, and smelled the way the chocolate and spice and scent of orange blossoms filled his nostrils, and how there was almost a flavor to the frisson of electricity in the aura of the spark. He felt cozy, and watched as the pack listened raptly to this master storyteller at work.

"This one is set in the future. Not even today, but in the near future." The pack looked at each other. Stiles looked at Derek, sat-up so Derek couldn't read ahead, or see the drawings in the margins. He wanted them all to experience this together. After all, the future isn't set, but this particular event isn't one of great triumph or struggle, so it shouldn't impact much of anything one way or another.

"It's the kind of Christmas morning where the windows are foggy and the lights on the houses nearby are blobs of color on the glass. The snow is on the ground thick enough to muffle noise, but not so bad you can't walk through it. In the great house in the preserve the pack meets. The little wolf is now a big wolf, but not a bad wolf. He's got his own pack now, and they welcome family and friends from far away every Christmastime."

"In the kitchen big wolf makes hot chocolate using a secret recipe he's developed at his cafe and which delights everyone. He prepares a cup for his electric friend, and for his friend who knows the ghosts, and for his cousin and his betas, for his sisters and their partners. He brews a magical potion of love and chocolate for everyone and makes it only at this time of year, as a treat to himself for his birthday, and as a cherished present to those he loves." Stiles grabs a cookie and munches it and glances at his notes.

"Oh, dang. Sorry, everyone, but I need to skip the rest of this."

"What, is it PG-13? We can handle a little of that. You two are already cuddling up."

"No, it's not that. The future is not set, and these stories might be pretty close to reality, but they're not facts. I don't know if the newcomers — No, sorry, I just don't know what I should say, so I'm going to skip it. And don't go trying to get into it later, Erica, you literally cannot read it, on top of getting a nasty burn if you try to open the book without my permission." She grunts back at him something about Batman with all his tricks and traps. "We'll get to it when we come to it. Together."

Derek nudges him with his shoulder. "Oh? Have you already decided you're staying?"

"Well, yeah, duh. When people meet their soulmates they really shouldn't just keep going."

"What? You did?"

Erica takes a cookie and throws it at Derek. "You're an idiot!" Derek looks at her confused, and annoyed. Boyd gives him a look that says to Derek that he is, in no uncertain terms, "being so stupid right now I can barely stand how stupid you're being. Would you please figure this out right now so we don't have to hold your hand through this life-changing event? What the hell, dude?"

Derek looks at Stiles, looks at the pack, and Jackson says, "Yo, dude, just check your threads."

It's Jackson's way of referring to the bond the pack has, and how they're bonded together with something that mentally looks like an energy string tying them together, supernaturals and humans alike. It's also the thing that Jackson knows will have Derek realize the truth of the situation. Derek tends to have to feel things out for himself. He doesn't think his way so much as do and feel and goes with that. The pack bond is one of the alpha's most powerful tools for relating to the people he's responsible for, and Jackson knows it's the kind of thing that will quickly get Derek out of his stupid place.

So Derek does at Jackson suggests. The pack are held with bright yellow bonds, the links between betas and between betas to their alpha. There are links to his family in colors that are tinted mostly with greens. Even Danny and Scott, both of whom are loosely associated with the pack, still have bonds to the alpha which show as gold from Danny and red from the other alpha. But there's a new line now, one directly to Stiles, and from Stiles come lines to the rest of the pack. There's a sort of hum to the group, a frequency that sounds like a cat's purr, or the perfectly tuned note on a piano, or the breeze through the forest in spring.

And the smells are incredible. He can now tell each member by scent just by thinking about them. Stiles being part of the group enhances his abilities considerably. He has the scent of desert clay and expensive wine from Jackson. There's the mixed whiffs of poppy and rain from Erica and Boyd. There is a tickling scent of dust from Lydia that underrides the floral of begonias and sparking wine. Allison smells of metal and snickerdoodles, and Scott of cane sugar and browned butter.

"Why can I feel your dad, Stiles?"

"Oh, well, we're a package deal. I bet you that within two years he'll move here, become Sheriff, and everyone will know him. He's just that kind of guy."

"How do you know this?"

Stiles opens the back cover of the notebook and holds it up to Derek so that only he can see. He folds it quickly before the pack can lean over enough to catch a glimpse. "Does that answer it?"

"Yes and no. I mean..." Derek glances at the window. Erica watches, and Lydia gasps minutely before catching herself. She barks an order.

"Boys, why don't you go get those figures and bring them to the table?" Jackson and Scott rise without a thought, only belatedly realizing they came to attention at her order. She's got no direct power over them, but yet, she somehow really does. She's just that intimidating. When she and Jackson broke-off their relationship, they took some time to heal from it, and now it's genuinely a good, close friendship between them. But he still does her bidding without necessarily meaning to, at times, to his minor annoyance. Danny just laughs at the situation, having been Jackson's best friend for ages and aware that Jackson really just kind of likes to be told what to do sometimes.

Stiles sits upright as the figures are laid before them. Derek is red-faced again, up through the tips of his ears. It's easily one of his most endearing qualities that are entirely outside of his control. Stiles loves that about the man, that his embarrassment and pride show through even when he doesn't mean to. and he's adorable when he's struggling with it.

"Wait." Stiles holds one, and then taps the rest, seeming to sense something about each. "You made these figures? The whole pack?" Derek nods. "These are great! Look, you even gave Jackson a little lizard tail. So cute!" (Scott had brought the Jackson doll over and hadn't realized that feature had been added. "Asshole" is all he says before sitting back in his chair and watching his cousin squirm under Stile's scrutiny.

"They're wonderful, and I think you did a great job. You could sell work like this for some pretty big bucks online, Derek. But why are we looking at them?"

Derek rises from his chair and goes to the window display. There's a house there between some tall trees. He reaches to the back, opens the door, and looks at whatever it is outside of Stile's line of sight.

"Come on, big guy. You don't need to hide your toys. Bring it over!" Stiles says playfully, and the pack giggles. Derek's ears flush brighter red and he steps over to Stiles and holds up to him a tall, thin figure with wild hair, a backpack just like the one he's got (down to the star and moon diagram in the middle), and sets it in front of Stiles next to the figure that looks like Derek.

"When did you make this?"

"I've had dreams about you for a long time. I could never see your face, but I knew the hair, and the bag, and the flannel shirts and tight jeans. I knew you were coming, but it wasn't until a few minutes ago that I realized this was you."

Erica holds her hands out. Several pack members put fives and tens into it. "I told you they were soulmates, but you all didn't believe me. All Stiles had to say was that he needed to pee and Derek just couldn't control himself."

Stiles and Derek could not help but laugh at that. Lydia and Boyd both gave half-disgusted, half-amused looks at her. Danny and Jackson were just laughing their asses off and Jackson silently filed that quote away for use later.

On Christmas day, not a week after they'd all met Stiles for the first time, the alpha and his soulmate had organized the pack to put up decorations inside and outside the Hale family home, they'd been cooking food, with Stiles giving Derek a flavor suggestion that perfected the recipe Derek's been working on, and they gathered everyone together for a huge pack picture. Stiles' dad and Derek's parents were able to get to town in time to welcome the happy couple to their first major holiday together and celebrate the blending of their families and pack.

As it turns out, the cafe has excellent WiFi and Stiles never has to worry about his things disappearing when he has to make runs to the restroom between writing chapters of his children's books about the Little Wolf and the Boy in the Red Sweater.

[adposto1]

Gulberg Greens Housing Society Islamabad

Gulberg Islamabad a society built with the latest and state of the art developments. Situated on the main Islamabad Expressway, and is central to Islamabad and Rawalpindi. With approval from Capital Development Authority (CDA), it has two parts Gulberg Greens and Gulberg Residencia. The best thing about this society is its greenery and a clean environment. It follows the Green philosophy that is a complete step towards conservation and preservation of the environment, providing a better understanding between human action and the natural environment. It has been planned to maintain a balance between a quality life and the latest development. And therefore its infrastructure and the landscape are designed with a focus on comfort and luxury as a priority. Gulberg’s community provides a huge network of wide roads. It has a 12 lane road, with a width of 220 feet. And more importantly provides a signal-free and a hustle-free drive, with the help of a self-built and self-financed underpass. Gulberg Greens New Land for Booking 2020 The society already has 85000 Kanal land which was divided into 19,667 for Gulberg Residentia and 18,660 for Gulberg Greens. But recently new land has been acquired. Gulberg Greens/Residentia Previous Booking Offer 5 Marla 7 Marla 10 Marla 12 Marla (short inventory) 1 Kanal 2 Kanal Farmhouses of 4 5 10 Kanal Note : D Markaz of commercial with having 5 more commercial zones in Gulberg. Gulberg Greens/Residentia Current Booking Offer after accruing New Land 5 Marla 7 Marla 10 Marla 1 KanalTaj Residencia is a partially developed housing project by Sardar Group of Companies near Sector I-14 Islamabad. 

The company has a background of building Centaurus Mall in Islamabad, hence it enjoys good reputation in the market. Some blocks of the society are developed already where possessions are available, however some more blocks are available for booking on installments which are currently under development. Major attraction of Taj Residencia is its location and the background of developers. Development standards are high, and pace of development is commendable. Centaurus Mall 2 is also planned in the central commercial area of this housing scheme. The society offers 5 marla, 7 marla, 10 marla, 12 marla, 1 kanal and 2 kanal residential plots, as well as 4 marla commercial plots on 2 years installment plan. More details are available at the following page:Islamabad is getting a new International airport and that is going to shift the growth pattern drastically. A new airport means more businesses and hotels around it. And thus the need for more residential facilities there. The areas around the airport are about to become the hub for commercial activity thus leading to a big jump in demand for residential facilities in the vicinity. A new economic growth zone is emerging.

300 Kanal land for sale near new airport Islamabad.This beautiful piece of land is situated on the prime location of Islamabad airport.Just 5 mins drive away from new Gulberg Islamabad airport and close to famous housing societies like Mumtaz city,Topcity and Green city near charki road.This land offers best potential to buy a golden opportunity to invest in commercial plot.About the neighborhood Yasir’s home is located in Islamabad, Islamabad Capital Territory, Pakistan. My place is a completely new building nearby Main Road. Close to New Airport and Daewoo Terminal yet well connected with Islamabad and Rawalpindi. (Everything is under 20mins Drive). major Markets nearby are F11 Markaz, F10 Markaz and Saddar where you can find all types of restaurants/ Cafes and shopping experience. Markets, Parks, all major banks, Retail brands, Major restaurants like Bakeman, itallian pizza, Rahat, Hospital are in walking distance from the property i-e from 400 Meters to 1 kilometre. Getting around Getting around Getting around NEED AIRPORT PICKUP? No problem. It can be arranged for you (guest responsible for the pickup cost, which is around USD $20) - CAR RENTAL? It can also be arranged with our partner car rental company. Building is only 500 Meters away from Skyways, Faisal movers and 2 kilometres from Daewoo bus terminal which makes it the only and nearest apartment to public transport. apartment have a 4 slots basement space for parking and temporary Guest parking in front of the building. Building is only 200 meters away from major service stations for refuelling. Its a well populated area with 24/7 security and situated on front Grand trunk road only 400 meters away from Kashmir Highway.Many investors and buyers are interested in Islamabad plots prices especially in the housing schemes located in the vicinity of upcoming New Islamabad International Airport. This is the area where most of the low cost yet feature rich housing projects are being developed. With a dedicated Metro Bus Service of Islamabad International Airport connecting this area with major city centers of Islamabad and Rawalpindi, approach is going to become easier in these housing schemes. These low cost Islamabad plots prices provide an additional cushion for investors to earn sizeable returns without risking a lot of capital. Rawalpindi Ring Road is also being planned in this area providing an additional travelling route for future residents and thus ensuring a jump in Islamabad plots prices.Housing Scheme With Ideal Islamabad Plots PricesIf you are finding plots apartments and houses in islamabad click now.There are 5 major housing schemes which are specifically promising for investors who are looking to benefit from upcoming launch of New Islamabad International Airport. These projects include: Al Mairaj Garden Islamabad Capital Smart City Islamabad Global Avenue Blue World City University Town Islamabad Islamabad Plots Prices – 5 Marla plots 5 Marla residential plots are for sure the most likely investment option because they have with lowest prices among Islamabad Property rates in this area. Here are the relative details of Islamabad plots prices near New Islamabad Airport for 5 Marla plot category Housing Project Total Price Payment Plan Duration Al Mairaj Garden Rs. 500,000 5 Year – Monthly Installments Capital Smart City Rs. 1,950,000 3 Year – Quarterly Installments Global Avenue Rs. 990,000 3 year – Monthly Installments Blue World City RS. 770,000 3 year – Monthly Installments University Town Rs. 1,350,000 – Rs. 1,800,000 Lump Sum Payment Islamabad Plots Prices – 8 Marla Plots Housing Project Total Price Payment Plan Duration Al Mairaj Garden Rs. 750,000 5 Year – Monthly Installments Blue World City RS. 1,100,000 3 year – Monthly Installments Islamabad Plots Prices – 10 Marla Plots 10 Marla plots is our next category for Islamabad Plots prices. The rates are understandably higher but so will be the profits once Islamabad property prices take a jump in next 6-12 months. Housing Project Total Price Payment Plan Duration Al Mairaj Garden Rs. 900,000 5 Year – Monthly Installments Capital Smart City Rs. 3,350,000 3 Year – Quarterly Installments Global Avenue Rs. 1,950,000 3 year – Monthly Installments Blue World City RS. 1,320,000 3 year – Monthly Installments University Town Rs. 2,700,000 – Rs. 3,200,000 Lump Sum Payment Islamabad Plots Prices – 1 Kanal Plots 1 Kanal Islamabad Plots prices are fairly higher at the moment, but once the entire area surrounding New Islamabad International Airport will be developed, these 1 Kanal plots are going to be goldmine for investors Housing Project Total Price Payment Plan Duration Al Mairaj Garden Rs. 1,700,000 5 Year – Monthly Installments Capital Smart City Rs. 4,975,000 3 Year – Quarterly Installments Global Avenue Rs. 3,600,000 3 year – Monthly Installments Blue World City RS. 2,310,000 3 year – Monthly Installments University Town Rs. 5,400,000 – Rs. 6,000,000 Lump Sum PaymentIf you are finding plots apartments and houses in islamabad click now.

Islamabad Plots Prices – 2 Kanal PlotsHousing Project Total Price Payment Plan Duration Al Mairaj Garden Rs. 3,200,000 5 Year – Monthly Installments Capital Smart City Rs. 9,950,000 3 Year – Quarterly Installments Blue World City RS. 4,180,000 3 year – Monthly InstallmentsCapital Smart City Discount Policy for Existing and New MembersCapital Smart City is offering two different discount policies for both the existing and new members of society. This discount policy allows existing members to avail 10% discount on a maximum of 3 outstanding or upcoming installments, while new members of Capital Smart City can avail higher discounts on half or full upfront payments for new plots and villas. In addition, Capital Smart City is offering a 6% discount for those existing members who will pay 6 upcoming installments in advance. However, the payment schedule for these new bookings will be 3.5 years instead of 3 years. New Surcharge Policy by Capital Smart City Islamabad Additionally, Capital Smart City has decided to levy a surcharge on late payments starting from 10th May 2020. Further details on this new surcharge policy are not yet disclosed. We are waiting for the details such as how many installments could be outstanding before a surcharge is levied? And what percentage of surcharge will be levied on the outstanding amount?If you are finding plots apartments and houses in islamabad click now.

[halsteadproperty]

Gardens, Courtyards, and Parks: Hidden Outdoor Spaces in the NY Metro Area

Curated by our Halstead agents

Few things are as coveted in the New York City area as green spaces. In the summertime especially, we all search for nature-filled areas to escape the noise, crowds, and pace of city life. We all know of the world-famous parks and gardens the area has to offer, but what about the lesser-known green spots—the secret gardens, hidden courtyards, and easily missed parks?

No one knows the hidden gems of New York City and its surrounding towns and cities better than our agents. So we asked them to share their favorite outdoor hideaways so that we can explore them for ourselves. Take a look at the hidden outdoor spaces they recommended, and find your new favorite place to unwind.

Palma West Village, NYC

“On a charming single-block street tucked away in the West Village is a restaurant that understands how to do garden dining right,” Janet Weiner shares. “With farmhouse décor and flowers everywhere you are transported to a romantic trattoria in Italy.” At Palma, attention to detail resonates in everything.

“Faithful to generations of family recipes and traditions and using only organic ingredients, the food is sublime—don’t pass up the pasta! The garden in back, overflowing with flowers and roses, is not to be missed. Its retractable glass ceiling makes outdoor dining possible year round.”

Janet recommends booking a table in the private carriage house for an intimate dinner party, while reserving the garden for a more festive event like an engagement or birthday party. “Dining in the garden at Palma is like taking a weekend getaway in the Italian countryside without leaving New York.”

Recommended by Janet Weiner of our Village office

Half-Moon Overlook Spuyten Duyvil, The Bronx

An intimate space on Palisade Avenue in Spuyten Duyvil, Half-Moon Overlook faces west and gives you a view of where the Hudson and Harlem Rivers meet. The small park is named for Henry Hudson's ship, the Halve Maen, and it is a beautiful perch to watch the sunset from and forget you're in a big city.

Recommended by the Sanjya Tidke Team of our Riverdale office

The Maidstone East Hampton, NY

The Maidstone has cozy fireplaces and a great bar inside, but it also has a beautiful garden where you can enjoy a drink or a meal. With umbrella-covered tables, benches, and plenty of greenery dotting the area, the garden is a great place to enjoy a friend’s company or sip on drinks with a larger group.

Shaded by large trees, there is a peaceful, almost park-like atmosphere here. “The grounds are absolutely beautiful,” Ani Antreasyan says. “And as a landscape designer, it’s one of my favorite places to hang out in East Hampton.”

Recommended by Ani Antreasyan of our East Hampton office

Amster Yard Turtle Bay, NYC

Tucked behind Instituto Cervantes, the Spanish Cultural Institute, Amster Yard is a true hidden gem. Vivian Ducat goes to this courtyard refuge to work sometimes and enjoys the Victorian atmosphere, with its iron grille work, wrought-iron chairs, and beautiful greenery.

Recommended by Vivian Ducat of our Harlem office

Rowayton Community Center Courtyard Rowayton, Connecticut

The land where Rowayton Library sits has a long and interesting history. Built over 100 years ago, the building that now contains the library used to be a barn and is on the National Register of Historic Places. 

Mike Barbis, who is a Commissioner for the town, shares the beauty of the barn's courtyard. It was renovated a few years ago and includes café chairs and tables where you can read or simply enjoy your surroundings. There's even a 100-year-old English Yew. On the property you can also find the dog park and the greenhouse, known as the Potting Shed.

Recommended by Mike Barbis of our Darien office

Tudor City Greens Tudor City, NYC

Two elevated spaces above 42nd Street and First Avenue offer a breath of fresh, quiet air above the maddening crowds below. The gardens are maintained by a neighborhood non-profit and boast much-needed shade, flower beds, benches, and gorgeous views.

Recommended by Madeleine Dale of our West Side office

Mount Prospect Park Prospect Heights, Brooklyn

A little-known park nestled between the Brooklyn Botanic Garden and the Central Library, Mount Prospect Park contains the second highest point in all of Brooklyn and was used as a lookout point during the Revolutionary War. The park is now frequented by locals and their dogs for early-morning playtime. It's close to Kris Sylvester's home, so he often goes there with his daughter so that she can practice riding her bicycle. 

Recommended by Kris Sylvester of our Village office

West Side Community Garden Upper West Side, NYC

Amelia Gewirtz was on her way to a friend's house when she heard jazz coming from a flower-filled area on 89th Street. She had happened upon the West Side Community Garden, hidden between Amsterdam and Columbus Avenues. Since then, the serene hideaway has become Amelia's favorite hidden garden, not only because of its stunning atmosphere, but also because of the many free music and theater events that are hosted there.

Recommended by Amelia Gewirtz of our West Side office

Terrain Garden Cafe  Westport, Connecticut

Terrain's greenhouse cafe has beautiful décor and seasonal menus, and there is an outdoor section as well. Enjoy a peaceful meal here surrounded by the lush greenery.

Recommended by Alison Mark of our Westport office 

St. Luke's Garden West Village, NYC

A green oasis in the West Village, the garden belonging to The Church of St. Luke in the Fields is a home for flowers, berries, birds, and butterflies. This is where Bo Poulsen used to have lunch, and though it's in plain sight, it's not nearly as visited as you would think.

Recommended by Bo Poulsen of our Village office

The Elevated Acre Financial District, NYC

Take the escalator at 55 Water Street to discover an expansive urban oasis above the bustle of the Financial District. Here you will find landscaped gardens, a lawn, winding paths, a beer garden, and an amphitheater. The views are pretty incredible, too.

Recommended by Madeleine Dale of our West Side office

Paerdegat Park East Flatbush, Brooklyn

Found in a part of Brooklyn with a lack of green spaces, Paerdegat Park offers a full recreation center including basketball and handball courts, a playground, benches, and most importantly, trees. 

Recommended by Wilford Nelson of our Fort Greene office

New Canaan’s Protected Lands New Canaan, Connecticut

The New Canaan Land Trust owns over 350 acres of land across the town in an effort to conserve the spaces. Included are the Bristow Bird Sanctuary, Watson-Symington Woodlands, Browne Preserve, and Silvermine Fowler Preserve. Found dotted around the town, these areas have diverse terrains and feature rivers, meadows, reservoirs, and wildlife.

Recommended by John Engel of our New Canaan office

Greenacre Park Turtle Bay, NYC

A beautiful urban green space nestled between Second and Third Avenues on 51st Street, Greenacre Park is a serene escape from the bustle of the city. It features a 25-foot-high waterfall flowing down a granite wall, a rarity in New York City. “It’s truly a hidden gem,” Ali Rubenstein says.

“Mature trees and landscaping fill the space to create a jungle-like atmosphere with tables and chairs sprinkled throughout. It’s a few blocks away from my apartment, so I frequent this tranquil oasis on the weekends in the spring and summer to enjoy my morning coffee. I always leave feeling refreshed and at peace.”  

Recommended by Ali Rubenstein of our Brand Team

Liz Christy Community Garden The Bowery, NYC

The oldest community garden in New York City, this green space was established by Liz Christy and a group of “green guerrillas” that cleaned up and beautified the then vacant lot. Today, you can find a pond, wildflower habitat, weeping birch trees, vegetable gardens, a grape arbor, and more.

Recommended by Madeleine Dale of our West Side office

Columbia Manhattanville Courtyard Manhattanville, NYC

Vivian Ducat was searching for a comfortable outdoor space to relax, so she headed to Columbia University’s Manhattanville campus. She walked alongside the Jerome L. Greene Science Center and came upon a lovely courtyard with shade-providing trees and colorful chairs and benches. “A breeze off the river makes it a very pleasant place to sit,” Vivian says.

Recommended by Vivian Ducat of our Harlem office

Public Hotel Garden Lower East Side, NYC

The Public Hotel has the popular Bowery Garden on its rooftop, but for a more casual atmosphere, try the small garden directly in front of the building on Chrystie Street. The space has picnic tables for you to enjoy a meal (consider getting something from the Jean-Georges food bar inside) and have a nice respite from the city.

Recommended by Bo Poulsen of our Village office

[travelteatv]

The final part of our road trip landed us literally, at the end of the road. John O’Groats is the most Northernly inhabited place in the UK/Scotland and we stayed there for our two last nights before returning to London.

LAIRG

We drove up to John O’Groats from our little cottage just outside Inverness, stopping for lunch and a walk on the way in Lairg, a village in Sunderland that was en route. We parked at the Ferrycroft Visitor Centre and went in to ask about which walks they recommended – they pointed us behind the building to a walk that went through the windows and round by the lake.

It wasn’t too long a walk but it was just right for us to get out and stretch our legs after being in the car for a bit. We were a bit hungry by this point and could see our next destination: The Pier cafe, where we were headed for lunch, so we got back in the car and drove over to there.

It’s a beautiful cafe and the food is incredible – we got there just amid the lunchtime rush and so didn’t manage to get a seat inside which was a bit of a shame as it wasn’t that warm but saying that, the view was beautiful so that made up for it a fair bit.

Once our stomachs were full we got back on the road and drove the last 2 hours of the journey up to John O’Groats. We took a beautiful scenic route and it was really lovely seeing all of the autumnal trees/scenery.

I hadn’t really thought about the fact that it would be fall when we went – we chose to go in October in an attempt to avoid the crowds and to be honest, I think we made a pretty good choice (even if part of it was a fluke). A common topic of conversation between us was how we couldn’t believe how lucky we were to be enjoying the beautiful roads, with no one else on them!

  JOHN O’GROATS

I’d been to John O’Groats once before on a road trip with my family (post here) and had a great time. We went to Wick (a nearby town) and tasted whisky at a distillery, visited the Castle of Mey and generally relaxed in our apartment, after a busy trip with a lot of stops.

The apartment was something I’ve always remembered fondly and hoped to return to, so when we started planning a trip to Scotland it was somewhere I suggested and I was very excited to return to it.

I emailed ahead to ‘Together Travel’ who run the accommodation we stayed in and they were very helpful with getting our apartment sorted for us. It’s situated in the old Inn, which they redeveloped a few years ago into luxury accommodation. As well as the old Inn, there are also individual apartments behind the building but I wanted to stay in the building as my family and I had done before.

What I like about the building is that they’ve kept the old characteristics of the Inn and managed to modernise it in a way that still very much fits in with the landscape. It’s cool staying somewhere that is such a landmark in its own way; I mean it’s right next to the John O’Groats sign! Plus, the inside is thoughtfully decorated and planned with lots of shared spaces including two libraries for guests to use.

Our apartment had a living room with separate bedroom, which overlooked the sea, so we spent our time going between our apartment and the libraries – the manager very kindly asked us if we were likely to go into the library, as if so he would start up the fire in there for us and leave us some wood to keep it going for the evening.

I have really positive memories of the last trip there – sitting in the library looking out at the stormy sea one night and the next, seeing the Northern Lights (something I’ll never forget). We weren’t lucky enough to see the aurora this time but we did get to drink whisky by the fire while looking out at the sea, which I really can’t complain about.

    Now, I’m still very positive about this place and would definitely recommend it but I do feel I should point out that it has its drawbacks – we got quite a good deal but it is still quite expensive. Yes, its a luxury place and very unique but there isn’t much else going on.

Compared to where we had just stayed near Inverness, which had so many facilities on offer (games room/free bike hire etc), to be completely honest we got a little bit bored. I had already been whisky tasting and it would have been a bit of a pain to go again as there were only two of us, and I would have had to drive, so only my boyfriend would have been able to actually do the tastings! Plus, on that same note, there aren’t really any pubs nearby or at least, not ones that looked like they would welcome locals.

In all honesty, the area as a whole is quite depressing. It’s definitely nice to go there as a bit of a retreat and to go for walks/see the wildlife nearby, but that’s all we really did. Ok, I can’t deny that drinking whisky by the fire, sitting on the beach under a blanket and going for coastal walks wasn’t lovely but we were there for two nights and really at a bit of a loss as to what to do with our time.

There are two towns nearby – Thurso and Wick, so if you fancied exploring those then that would be an option. We were quite content staying outside of towns for this part of the trip and so tried to make the most of the countryside as best as we could.

Personally, I think it’s a great place to stop if you are doing the Lands End to John O’Groats challenge (in any form) or doing the North Coast 500 drive around Scotland (which I would highly recommend). But to make the journey all the way up there for any other reason isn’t really necessary.

I enjoyed myself both times but I don’t think there’s any reason I can see myself returning.

  DUNNET HEAD

Dunnet Head is a nature reserve famous for it’s wildlife and stunning cliffs, not far from John O’Groats. I won’t lie, we saw some birds but not quite the ‘array’ of wildlife we were hoping for! The cliffs and scenery were nice though!

  It was super windy so we only spent about 30 minutes there but I still enjoyed it. There are no toilets/places to get a tea etc on site, so if you’re planning on going be aware that you’ll need to bring your own food/drink. Also, just a heads up – the roads are fairly narrow, so be cautious when driving down them.

As well as Dunnet Head, another short drive from John O’Groats is Duncansby Head – the physical most North Eastern tip of Scotland. The rugged landscape of the Scottish coast is especially prevalent in this area and it really is a stunning view of the ‘sea stacks’. There’s also a lighthouse here, though it’s not too much to look at.

Again, we spent no more than 30 minutes here, wandering and looking out at the view but it was quite windy and a bit rainy, and I wasn’t desperate to get blown off a cliff.

  CASTLE SINCLAIR GIRNIGOE

On our way out of John O’Groats, as we headed back down to Inverness to catch the flight home, we stopped at not one but two castles. Castle Sinclair Girnigoe just outside Wick, is an incredible place to stop – thought to have been built in the 1100s most of it is a ruin now although a fair amount of it has been repaired and you’re actually allowed to walk around inside it.

It’s free to access and makes for a lovely walk down to it, then in/around the castle – it’s not often you get to stand inside a ruined castle looking out over the sea. We went down there first thing in the morning and so it wasn’t too busy but it may get a bit busier as the day goes on.

  DUNROBIN CASTLE

Another place I would definitely recommend stopping if you’re going this way, is Dunrobin Castle. Dating back to the 1300s, it’s not quite as old as the ruined castle we visited first but this one is in a much, much better condition – the Earl of Sutherland still lives in it.

It’s a beautiful building (designed by Charles Barry, who also designed the Houses of Parliament in London) with very well kept gardens that has had a variety of uses in its time, including a boys boarding school and a hospital (during the war).

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You do have to pay to go into this castle (£12.50 each) but I would say it’s worth it, as you’re able to spend a fair chunk of time here looking around all the well preserved rooms and talking to the staff, who are all full of information and fun facts about the castle.

  BUSINESS CLASS FLIGHT

And that was our final stop on the road trip, before heading back down to London – we dropped our hire car back and then (this is the first time I’m ever being able to say this), went to the lounge – I collect avios points (for flights, using my credit card) and got a bonus from the scheme, offering me 2 free upgraded seats on a flight of my choice.

These upgrades had been burning a hole in my pocket for a little while and ran out at the end of the year, but I didn’t have that many points to make use of. You can of course just use the points for part of the cost and then pay the rest in cash but in all honesty, with the extra price you often end up paying, you may as well just go with a cheaper airline. Hence how we settled on a trip to Scotland – I had enough points to get us there and back, plus on the return journey we got to experience our very first business class flight!

The flight itself is only 1 hour 30, so it was a short time to enjoy all the perks you might get on a longer flight but honestly, we had such a great time. It was actually a fair bit different to economy than I thought it would be, just in terms of seating and food etc.

Firstly, we got to sit in the lounge where there are beers, wine, soft drinks and crisps/snacks available for free. Personally I wouldn’t choose to pay extra for this lounge in particular at Inverness Airport (it was very small) but I can imagine if you’re travelling from Heathrow or Edinburgh (both larger airports), then it would be worth it.

Then, on the flight itself there are lots of little things that made a big difference – it was a very short flight but we were given a proper meal, with real knives and forks. This might seem like a simple thing for people who travel business class/above regularly but for someone who had never done that before, it was very exciting!

Also, the seats themselves aren’t larger but there is more leg room and then block out the middle seat, meaning in general you get a fair amount more space. We only used the space in between us to play cards but I’m sure real business travellers use it for something much more productive!

I don’t know when (if ever) we’ll get to travel business class again but I’m very appreciative it was something we ever got to try out. Of course I would love to do it again but it isn’t something that is generally within my means.

  And that was our trip to Scotland! My previous Scottish Road Trip posts can be seen here, but if you’re still looking for any further information then leave me a comment and I might be able to help!

  Abi

X

@travelteatv

  Scottish Road Trip on a Budget| Part 3 | John O’Groats The final part of our road trip landed us literally, at the end of the road. John O'Groats is the most Northernly inhabited place in the UK/Scotland and we stayed there for our two last nights before returning to London.

[michelemoore]

Takhuk

June 25,2019

Michele Moore Veldhoen

Seven Gems on (or near) the Crowsnest Highway

Have you ever travelled the Crowsnest Route? Otherwise known as Highway 3, this 700 mile long blaze of wanderlust is a tribute to the landscapes of southern BC and Alberta and is scattered with gems. Its’ mountains and prairies, valleys and coulees, canyons and creek side rest stops, lakes and forests and rivers, collectively deliver an epic view of what this part of Canada is all about.

The genesis of this highway was a route called the Dewdney Trail which was built to connect gold rush towns throughout much of southern BC. (And resist American gold diggers pressing in from the south.) Beginning in the Fraser River valley outside of Vancouver, the route takes you east from Hope, B.C., through the Cascade Mountains and into the southern portion of the orchard rich Okanagan valley anchored by hot hot Osoyoos.  Over Anarchist Mountain (which if coming east to west may finish off your vehicle’s brakes), it winds for miles and miles through, say these names out loud, the Monashees, Selkirk and Purcell sub-ranges of the Columbia Mountains.  Don’t you love the sound of those names? The Mountain Show finale begins east of Cranbrook, where the first sight of the towering Rockies comes into view and commands your attention all the way to and beyond Fernie, the ski resort town so many Albertans love. Entering the Crowsnest Pass east of Fernie, passing the world’s biggest truck, watch for the appearance of the singular cloud calling Crowsnest Mountain, which owns the northern side of the highway here, a sentinel marking the end, or beginning, of your journey through this unique portion of the Crowsnest.

When heading east and home as I was a couple of weeks ago I always feel a certain melancholy as I pass through the little towns of the pass - Coleman, then Blairmore, after which Crowsnest Mountain fades in my rearview mirror.  The boulder sea birthed by Turtle Mountain and known as the Frank Slide adds to the sense of something different, an ending.  Soon though, hints of the coming prairie can be seen as the mountains diminish around Bellevue, the last little town of the Crowsnest Pass. Depending on the weather, the view beyond Bellevue can be inspiring or terrifying. An entire universe of pure radiant green and blue, all wide open and ready to receive you, or frozen wind stripped barrens with no obvious shelter. Either way, the remainder of the Crowsnest Highway offers a reminder of the vastness of the prairie and the courage of the people who farm and ranch and live on that land. The route travels through the vibrant small cities and cliff and hoodoo studded river valleys of Lethbridge and Medicine Hat. When you reach the Hat you have come to the end of this inter-provincial highway and seen a truly incredible variety of places and landscapes.

A couple of weeks ago I travelled west for about 500 miles of the Crowsnest beginning at the junction of highway 22 and 3, and ending in Grand Forks, BC. I made this trip to visit my father. This is one of many, many trips over the last ,35 years that I have taken along the Crowsnest to Grand Forks to visit family. Growing up, I lived in the Grand Forks and Christina Lake area and travelled the route east to come to Calgary and visit family here. I also went many times west from Christina Lake, down the brake burning Anarchist Mountain and on into the Fraser Valley and the coast, passing through Hope when it was still a long way from Vancouver, to visit my grandparents who lived in the heart of that coastal metropolis.

Thousands and thousands of miles, back and forth along the Crowsnest, over a lifetime. Autumn trips to Vancouver, launched at midnight so that we would arrive at my grandmother’s big round oak table just in time for breakfast, those trips made in the backseat of my father’s cars, the one I remember best an emerald green Riviera with white leather seats. My father commenting on the sunrise over the Fraser River and the sparkle of the water which he never painted but would have if he had had the time. Winter trips through all those mountain ranges to get from Christina Lake to Calgary to celebrate Christmas with my mother’s sister and my cousins. In the backseat clutching my book which I couldn’t concentrate on due to the terror I felt. It was the snow and ice on the roads, the vapour of the big logging trucks that made the world hard to see, the tension in my mother’s shoulders. I do not like driving that highway in winter but I did it anyway, when I was raising my kids, because I wanted them to have those memories of Christmas’ with their cousins, who grew up back in Grand Forks. People I love have always lived in Grand Forks, it seems.

But the summer trips! The summer trips through those mountains and valleys and along that piece of prairie. The treasures to be found, some hidden, some right on the highway, some just a few miles up another road.

Here are Seven Gems of the Crowsnest:

Hell’s Gate during hummingbird migration. Less than an hour north from Hope, Hell’s Gate is a spectacle unlike anything I’ve seen anywhere else so far on this planet. The crashing and ripping of the Fraser River through this canyon is in itself an experience, but it’s the spring hummingbird migration that takes Hell’s Gate to a whole different level. It’s like standing in the middle of an avian war zone. Hundreds, maybe thousands, of hummingbirds of various species take over the airspace of the platform which is hung with dozens of feeders. And every one of these master flyers are on a single minded mission to fatten up. Standing amongst them, it feels dangerous to move because your body might end up punctured with a sharp beak. It only feels that way though. These birds are aerial acrobats. Despite masses of them all working in the same confined space, they never crash. They fight, but they don’t crash. Spectators like me stand watching and speechless, as these birds zip by like electric currents, from feeder to feeder. It’s an incredible sight.

Keremeos peaches and cherries. Keremeos is a little village on the cusp of the Okanagan region. Aside from the interesting geography – moist cedar and fir forested Cascades meet semi-arid, stone and pine studded hills, the peaches and cherries grown here are indisputably the biggest, juiciest, and sweetest peaches and cherries you will ever taste. The soil and climate, the terroir, of this region known as the Similkameen Valley, must have something to do with it. Really, their fruit is beyond delicious. And as far as I know, none of it comes to Alberta. You have to go there to experience it. Go there.

Greenwood’s Copper Eagle and Deadwood Junction cafes. Greenwood is a pretty little town on the route with an irresistible main street.  A short walk to look at the classic western style false fronts and a longer look at The Greenwood Hotel and Saloon which epitomizes the character of this streetscape. I’ve never stayed or eaten there because it’s just a few miles away from Grand Forks, but I always stop at either the Copper Eagle next door, or the Deadwood Junction around the corner. In terms of pie, cinnamon buns, or some other wickedly delicious sweet to go with a cappuccino or latte, both of these coffee shop/bakeries/cafes can hold their own with big city coffee shops.

Castlegar and the area just north off the Crowsnest is a paradise for summer exploration. The jewel within the region, Valhalla Provincial Park and Slocan Lake. Swimming in this lake is a quintessential southern BC interior experience. Nothing like the crowded Okanagan or the Shuswap (which are nevertheless also divine). Slocan Lake water is warm, clear and clean, and surrounded by the beautiful Valhalla range of the Selkirks, which has been protected through the park designation due to the mountains unique topography and vegetation. Truly a hidden gem.

Truscott Farms in Creston. This fruit stand has it all. Every BC fruit in abundance, along with all the vegetables, always fresh and all grown on the slopes right behind the fruit stand. A big outdoor sink area to wash the fruit, next to a setting of picnic tables under the cooling shade of densely leafed trees. A huge herb and flower garden to wander through and stretch your legs. A lunch counter in the back of the fruit stand where you can get a delicious sandwich made with locally baked bread, a piece of pie, locally made sausage, a coffee, whatever you want. Go sit in the shade with your own packed lunch and a basket of cherries. Oh, there’s also an additional shop full of preserves, pickles, jams. And, if you’re pulling a camper, the parking is a breeze. This operation has had decades to figure it all out and invested in making their fruit stand a perfect place to enjoy the summer bounty of this region.

Almost any BC Rest Stop. Pick one that has a creek, which most appear to have, and a trail that disappears into the woods. These places are so thoughtfully done, scattered picnic benches under the forest canopy, nothing more to distract from the simple natural beauty.  So peaceful. There’s a really special one going east out of Christina Lake, on the big long straight stretch portion of the hill toward Paulson Bridge. There’s a tiny wooden bridge that allows you to cross from the paved and motorized world into the tranquil universe of plants and animals. It’s magic, like the kids that disappear into Narnia through the back of the wardrobe but better, because there’s no evil witch, just peace and quiet. I have not stopped there in years but in the past I went there in August and picked wild blackberries.

Fort Macleod. I just love this town. The importance of its’ history, which the fort itself interprets so well, its’ immaculate downtown streets, its’ friendly and interesting residents, its’ old stately houses and yards filled with tough prairie trees and plants and flowers, and, my memory of the first time I saw a prairie sunrise. I had come alone at the age of nine or ten on the Greyhound bus from Christina Lake to Calgary to stay for a summer vacation with my aunt. The bus rolled into Fort Macleod just as the sun was rising and I can still remember the feeling of awe I experienced as the entire world seemed to be painted and lit in the golds and pinks and tangerines of a Keremeos peach. I believe it was that trip that forged my love of travel.

 Wishing you a wonder filled, peachy summer.

 www.thetreeswallow.com

[thebestintoronto]

THE ULTIMATE 48 HOUR TORONTO ITINERARY

After so many years of travelling, I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to put together a 48 hour Toronto itinerary. It’s where I was born and it’s where I live, work and play so you think it would be easy to put together a list where to go in Toronto, right? Well, it is and it isn’t. Toronto is a world-class city but for me when I return from a trip, I just want to relax and slowly try to get back into the groove of the daily grind. But as a travel blogger who creates short trips, mini-breaks, and weekend getaway itineraries, I’m sort of obligated to create an itinerary for Toronto.

I GOT HOMETOWN ADVANTAGE.

HERE’S MY 48 HOUR TORONTO ITINERARY

All that said, I live in a very big city so I decided to stick with the downtown Toronto attractions instead of things to do near Toronto. Some are Toronto tourist spots while others are hidden gems that only a local like me would know about.

In addition, our national airline Air Canada is allowing you to hook up a stopover for up to 7 days in Toronto on your way to Europe or Asia. Sweet! You can bookmark this itinerary for when you get here. Hell, I’ll even welcome you at the airport with open arms.

WHERE TO STAY IN TORONTO

Fairmont Royal York Hotel

Fairmont’s historic ballroom is legendary and the hotel itself is a city icon.  Its spacious rooms feature floral accents and include designer bath toiletries and robes. It has a skylit indoor pool, 5 on-site dining options, its across the street from Union Station with shuttle bus to both airports.

Thompson Toronto

The Hotel has a rooftop pool and bar with views of the city and CN Towers – I could pretty much stop there. But, it has designer linens and bath amenities. Fully stocked minibars, 24-hour concierge, on-site valet and a 10-minute walk from the bars and restaurants of King West.

Hyatt Regency Toronto

Located in the entertainment district in the centre of Toronto – trust me there is no better place to be. It’s a modern hotel with flat-screen TVs and Apple docking stations,  on-site sauna, outdoor pool and it’s King Street Social Kitchen and Lounge serves regional cuisine

DAY 1

BALDWIN STEPS

The first stop is Casa Loma but in order to get up the hill, we need to use the Baldwin Steps, which are a public outdoor staircase that dates back to the 19th century. They are named after a former landowner of the area, the Baldwin family, which included Robert Baldwin, a former premier of Ontario.

CASA LOMA

This 98-room castle was commissioned by Sir Henry Mill Pellatt, a Canadian soldier, and investor who founded the Toronto Electric Light Company in 1883. Sir Henry Mill Pellatt ordered Toronto native and architect E. J. Lennox to design Casa Loma. The 3.5 million dollar castle began construction in 1911 and was finally completed by 1914. Today Casa Loma is used as a filming location, a museum, as a venue for weddings. It is also one of Toronto’s most popular landmarks.

ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM (R.O.M.)

The Royal Ontario Museum is one of the largest museums in North America and the largest museum in Canada. The ROM is highly regarded as a “preeminent field research institute and an international leader in new and original findings in biodiversity, paleontology, earth sciences, the visual arts, material culture, and archaeology”.

PHILOSOPHERS WALK (*HIDDEN GEM)

The Philosophers Walk is a scenic footpath located in the St George campus of the University of Toronto.  It runs north-south along what was once a natural water called Taddle Creek, which was buried during the industrial age and now flows underwater.

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO (CAMPUS)

The University of Toronto was originally founded in 1827 as King’s College and as the first institution of higher learning in Upper Canada. The university is comprised of twelve colleges. The University of Toronto also has two satellite campuses located in Scarborough and Mississauga.

BALDWIN STREET, RESTAURANTS (*HIDDEN GEM)

Yes, you might have guessed it’s the same Baldwin family who owned the land that the steps used to get to Casa Loma are built on. This small Toronto enclave is located in Toronto’s Grange Park neighbourhood. Baldwin Village is famous for its small shops and restaurants like, Shawarma and Falafel Place, Chardise, Sid’s Deli, and many other favourited restaurants of Toronto.

KENSINGTON MARKET

Kensington Market is Toronto’s self-proclaimed “most vibrant and diverse neighbourhood”.  This bustling Toronto neighbourhood serves as a fine indicator of Toronto’s multicultural diversity. No establishment in Kensington Market is the same. Vendors, shops, and restaurants of all sorts of ethnicities make up the melting pot that is Toronto’s “most vibrant and diverse neighbourhood”.

ART GALLERY OF ONTARIO (AGO)

The Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO) is home to over 90,000 different artworks and is lauded as one of North America’s most distinguished art museums.  This massive museum carried works of art that range from the Renaissance to contemporary pieces of art. Aside from being an astonishing physical museum, AGO also has launched its social media website called Collection X, which grants users access to a digital art forum that is opened to artists and art lovers.

GRANGE PARK

Right beside the AGO is OCAD U (The Ontario College of Art and Design University) and right behind that is Grange Park which happens to my local park.

Many-a-blog-post was conceived in this park!

There are two large sculptures by world-famous sculpture, Henry Moore and 14 nature related, inscribed granite paving stones from famous Canadian authors.

QUEEN STREET WEST

Named “the second coolest neighborhood in the world” by Vogue magazine, Queen Street West is downtown Toronto’s most celebrated (fashion) district. Queen Street West is a hip, urban strip that extends for two kilometres (1.25 miles) between Bathurst and Gladstone and is comprised of some of the city’s most trendy boutiques, art galleries, bars, and restaurants.

GRAFFITI ALLEY (*HIDDEN GEM)

Just south of Queen Street West is one of Toronto’s most surprisingly artistic accomplishments: Graffiti Alley. Graffiti Alley stretches for approximately one kilometre (.6 miles) and is teeming with urban art that is (legally) painted each summer by an artistic troupe called Style in Progress. If you’re looking to explore Toronto in hopes of finding a hidden gem that reflects the urban, artistic capabilities of the city, then Graffiti Alley is that and more. Read more about Graffiti Alley from my post: Toronto’s Graffiti And Street Art

KING STREET WEST | KING WEST VILLAGE

King West Village is one of Toronto’s fastest growing communities. With waves of young professionals moving into the neighbourhood, Kings West Village has experienced a boost in its economy and social scene. Aside from the rapidly changing demographic of the neighbourhood, King West Village is well-known for its landmarks, 19th-century buildings, and iconic brownstones.

ROGERS CENTRE (A.K.A. THE SKYDOME)

Opened in June 1989 and originally named the SkyDome, Rogers Centre is a multi-purpose indoor stadium that holds some of Toronto’s wonderfully exciting venues. Notably, the Rogers Centre is home to the Toronto Blue Jays (MLB) and has served as the venue for an array of different events: sporting events, concerts, auto shows, circuses, Disney on Ice, and much more.

Architecturally, the stadium is well-known for being the first stadium to have a fully retractable motorized roof, having an annexed 348-room hotel attached, and is also the last dual sporting major-league stadiums in North American (MLB and NFL).

TORONTO RAILWAY MUSEUM

The Toronto Railway Museum, a mainstay attraction of downtown Toronto located in Roundhouse Park,  is “dedicated to preserving the physical legacy, history, and experience of rail transportation in Toronto and Ontario.” The museum has lots to offer, such as a railway simulator, in-depth historical displays, and interactive displays. Be sure to check out the gift shop and go on a Miniature Train ride before you leave!

CN TOWER | 360 RESTAURANT

Often viewed as the pride and joy of Toronto, The CN Tower is a spectacular architectural and engineering feat that captures the livelihood of the city. This national icon and landmark are well-known for its (cost-efficient) state-of-the-art LED lighting system, as well as recently being on the cover of Drake’s critically-acclaimed album “Views”.  Aside from its stature as a culture and urban icon, the CN Tower is home to the revolving 360 The Restaurant.  This world-class restaurant is managed by Executive Chef John Morris and General Manager of Restaurants and Events Cameron Dryburgh, who helms the culinary team at the award-winning restaurant.

DAY 2

THE BEST 48 HOUR TORONTO ITINERARY

DISTILLERY DISTRICT

Despite its name, Toronto’s Distillery District is known for being “Canada’s premier arts, culture and entertainment destination”.  The district gets its name from the 47 buildings that were formally known as the Gooderham & Worts Distillery. Since 2003, the Distillery District has been offering locals and visitors a “hip, cool dynamic” that is comparable to New York City’s SoHo or Chelsea. Be sure to check out the Distillery District’s unique shops, galleries, studios, restaurants, cafes, theatres, and more!

ST. LAWRENCE MARKET

The St. Lawrence Market is an encompassing, nostalgic shopping destination in Toronto. The market is made up of three main buildings that each provides their own unique services and products: The South Market, the North Market and St. Lawrence Hall. The South Market is known for having vendors that sell fresh produce, meat, fish, grains, baked goods, dairy products, as well as non-food items. The second floor of the South Market, home to the Market Gallery, serves as an exhibition space for City of Toronto’s Cultural Services. The North Market is well-known for its Saturday Farmers’ Market, Sunday antique dealers, rental spaces. St. Lawrence Hall is comprised of various retailers on the ground floor, city offices on the second floor, and auxiliary rooms for special events on the third floor.

GOODERHAM BUILDING

Toronto’s Gooderham Building, also known as the Flatiron Building, is one of the city’s historical landmarks. Located in Toronto’s Financial District, the Gooderham Building was completed in 1892 as a premature model of its current architectural state. Now, the building serves as not only an office building but as a historical landmark that adds to Toronto’s pizzazz.

CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. JAMES

Opened on June 19, 1853, the Cathedral Church of St. James stands as one of the largest Toronto-built buildings. The Cathedral was constructed with the intention of replicating Gothic Revival architecture. The cathedral is well-known for its 92.9 meters (305 foot) tower and pointed spire.

YONGE-DUNDAS SQUARE

Yonge-Dundas Square is Toronto’s equivalent of New York City’s Times Square. This bustling, vibrant square experiences fluxes of tourists and locals who relish in the square’s open space and eccentric ambiance. Yonge-Dundas Square’s myriad of LCD displays brings a one-of-a-kind luminescence to Toronto and capture’s the city’s animated downtown vibe

EATON CENTRE

Located in downtown Toronto, the Eaton Centre is Toronto’s only mega shopping centre. This massive shopping centre is home to over 230 national and international retailers, as well as offering patrons tons of dining and entertainment options.

OLD CITY HALL

Old City Hall is just one of four city halls to be constructed in Toronto. The building boasts a Romanesque style of architecture, as well as a distinguishable clock tower. Since 1984, Old City Hall has been designated as a National Historic Site of Toronto.

TORONTO CITY HALL | TORONTO SIGN

Toronto City Hall, also known as New City Hall, serves as the home of Toronto’s municipal government.  Despite its round base, Toronto City Hall is comprised of two towers that are curved in, and stand at varying heights. Toronto City Hall’s courtyard, Nathan Phillips Square, serves as the primary host of various festivals and events in Toronto.

YONGE ST.

Centered around Yonge-Dundas Square is Yonge Street. As is typical of the streets of downtown Toronto, Yonge Street is lined with heaps of restaurants, bars, and shops. Yonge Street is one of Toronto’s main streets, it is the longest street in the world and divides the city between East & West.

HOCKEY HALL OF FAME

In the typical Canadian fashion, Toronto is home to the Hockey Hall of Fame (HHoF). The Hockey Hall of Fame building was established in 1943 and is located on Yonge Street. The HHoF houses 15 various exhibit areas that cover 60,000 square feet. Visitors of the HHoF can view trophy displays, memorabilia, and player equipment worn during special games. The Hockey Hall of Fame also has an interactive display called “Be a Player” that allows patrons to use shoot real pukes against a simulated legendary goaltender, Ed Belfour.

HARBOURFRONT | HARBOUR CENTRE

The Harbourfront Centre is nonprofit cultural organizations that put together events and activities to enrichen and enhance downtown Toronto. Located at 235 Queens Quay West, on Toronto’s waterfront, the Harbourfront Centre is a must visit destination for all those looking to enjoy the cultural diversity and creativity of Toronto, right on the water.

AMSTERDAM BREWHOUSE

Located in the Harbourfront, Amsterdam BrewHouse specializes in offering patrons craft beers and delicious eats. Amsterdam BrewHouse’s ideal location makes it the perfect place to enjoy local craft beers, delicious local foods, and a lakeside view of Lake Ontario.

Visit my post called The Best Harbourfront Restaurant in Toronto to find out more about this awesome place!

Also, while at the Amsterdam BrewHouse I got to hang out with a good friend of mine and fellow travel blogger Danielle from the Thought Card. She’s a pro at cost effective travel so if you’re curious about budgeting a trip to Toronto she wrote a great post called Toronto Budget: How Much Does A Trip To Toronto Cost?  

The post “ THE ULTIMATE 48 HOUR TORONTO ITINERARY “ was first seen on Rudderless Travel by Christopher Rudder

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[sarawaktravel]

SARAWAK – BEYOND HORNBILLS AND COLOURFUL CAKES

Discovering Sarawak with our two young children.

1 Nov 2018

It’s been a week since we came back from the land of the hornbills – Sarawak. Now that we are back in Sabah, we are blessed to be rewarded with the priceless memories of Sarawak, that is worth more than any Instagram worthy photos could relate to. Too many impressions that covered aspects of culture, art, nature, history and adventure that we just do not know how to begin this blog. And yes, it has been awhile since we have written any blogs due to work and family commitments. Nevertheless, for 2019 the goal is to make time for this space. Lets see.

As we landed in Kuching city #memorableadventures and quality time for our small family took shape. Being in the travel industry for the past few years now, our role as travel consultants/organizer/B&B owners always revolved around us being the host. So, it was good that this time around we were able to kick off our shoes and be on the other side of the fence. We were too busy before our holidays that we did not even look at the itinerary prior to arriving in Sarawak. All we had to do pre-holiday period was to inform our business partner in Sarawak of our interest, the places we are keen on visiting, our budget, what was important to us and the length of time we intended to be in Sarawak. They then carefully crafted an itinerary based on our requirements and availability and just like that flight tickets were booked and we were ready to go!

So there we were at the Kuching International Airport ready for our much-awaited family holiday. Just as I was about to check my itinerary, Khaliq our guide greeted us warmly at the arrival hall. Our first step of “nothing to worry about, everything is managed from the pick-up point till the end” commenced. We got in to the spacious van which Olivia till this day refers to “our bus”. Yes, the shuttle was just for us and we slowly made our way out of the airport area.

The quiet but always smiling road navigator Kumar concentrated on the road as he drove us to our hotel. Khaliq on the other hand began his role as a guide. Sharing with us bits and pieces of information on Sarawak. Though the ride was less than 30 minutes to our hotel, Khaliq was so resourceful that he managed to briefly cover subjects on the different ethnic groups, nature, wildlife and cultural & historical aspects of Sarawak. Within this short span, we could already sense that he is really passionate about his career as a guide. An Engineer by profession, he followed his heart and took on guiding role to share with travelers the Sarawak story. He was our story teller with facts and figures and examples. If you have an assignment on Sarawak, you would definitely want to speak to him and pick his brain.

Such interesting conversation we had with Khaliq that before we knew it, the van pulled to a stop in front of Pullman hotel entrance– ahhh our home for the next 5 nights. As we needed sometime to catch up on rest and some quality time with our soon to be 4 years old Olivia and 20 months old Emelyn, we have requested from our business partner to book 5 nights at Pullman just for us to unwind and to explore Kuching on our own, at our own pace. Due to our lifestyle we are always with the presence of others. Definitely nothing wrong with that. But that would mean that in order to deliver excellent service quality, some of our personal time with the family was sacrificed. So, these few days of just us being together was crucial.

Part One: Kuching – you had us at “meow”

Our room at Pullman was spacious with huge glass windows that showcased the view of the Sarawak River and the New Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building. The kids were too busy to appreciate this as jumping on the plush mattress and playing with the hotel phone was much more interesting. In as much as we would love to start walking and discover the city immediately, we realized that we were actually on holidays and do not have to rush into things as we used to whilst on “working” mode.

We eventually made our way slowly to discover the Kuching city by foot. We walked straight to the waterfront and what a sight. Traditional wooden tailboat stationed for the passengers to get across to the Malay Village. The river itself was clean not polluted with pet bottles as compared to what we have seen in some other states in Malaysia. It must be commented that Kuching city itself is very clean. The people were friendly. The heritage buildings were still preserved, and some turned into cafes/ restaurants. Some parts of the city reminded us of Penang with the charming narrow streets in the city, the sidewalk shops, Café culture is big and creative here too– from the local Kopitiam to the fusion inspired cafes. The graffiti which included different versions of the iconic Borneo orangutan and hornbills added character to the city. And boy did the cake lapis (layered cake) added a personality this state. Shops and side streets were filled with rainbow colored butter like cakes of different motives. On that hot day that we roamed the streets, their local “Ais Krim Gula Apong” is a must - delicious humble local ice cream made from the nipah palm sugar.

We are going to touch on food here as it is part of the travel. So if you are not so into food then you can skip reading this part.

Of course when one is in Sarawak, you can’t leave the state without trying their signature dish Sarawak Laksa. Whilst Laksa is available in many parts of Malaysia, each state has its own spin on the laksa gravy and the noodles that goes with it. The Sarawak Laksa consists of hearty spiced shrimp paste that it cooked to the consistency of a thick broth. It is paired with rice vermicelli and topped with generous amount of key condiments such as shredded chicken, poached shrimps, fettuccini sliced omelet, coriander, sambal chili paste, beansprout and calamansi lime to add zest to the whole dish. We must say we were rather ignorant and thought that the Sarawak Laksa was available the whole day just like nasi lemak in Kuala Lumpur – for breakfast, lunch, dinner and supper! As we discovered the city in the later part of the afternoon, we learnt that this dish is something that the locals have for breakfast or lunch. As such, where food is concerned, quest by foot for Sarawak Laksa around 2:30pm was to no avail. We settled for another hearty local dish called mee kolok (egg noodles) which was tossed in transparent, light soya type of sauce served with sweet bbq chicken. That definitely satisfied our hunger and gave us Energizer stamina to discover the city even further.

When in Kuching city, you will notice a few cat monuments and wooden crafted cats sold at the souvenir shops. Kuching is associated with cats simply because Kuching means Cat in the Malay language. Therefore, Kuching is known as the Cat City. The famous cat statue is the one we often see travelers post on social media and the one in particular is the one located at Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, at a roundabout opposite of McDonalds. And so yes, the Cat Monument is a place where one can play tourist – local or foreigner. Like Chapel Bridge is to Luzern or Twin Towers is to Kuala Lumpur, taking a selfie or picture with the cat monument in the background is a proof that one has been to Kuching Sarawak.

We took a lot of “pause” moment as we walked our way to discover Kuching city. The “pause” was stretched a bit further as Simon and I travelled with our two young children. We opted to travel light and as such we left the baby stroller at home but did take along the baby carrier. As we get to our other destinations in Sarawak, the stroller was definitely not needed. It would have been a bulky baggage and we were happy with our decision of not having a stroller. However, discovering the city by foot and visiting the malls, there were times when my back hurt and I was very close to buy a cheap stroller! But I didn’t in the end. Which makes me wonder do hotels or airports have the service of renting baby strollers? I am not talking about the strollers that some airports such as Emirates or Etihad provide in between transits at the airport (which by the way is very convenient for travelers with young children). Would be good if there is such service in Malaysia – just thinking out loud.

Our final destination on the first day in Kuching took us to a restaurant that our Sarawakian friend Lina recommended. We wanted local food and she made a great recommendation for us to try the food at Lepau Restaurant. It is about 10 minutes walk from Pullman or you can take a taxi for less than 5 minutes drive. The restaurant is tastefully done. Just the entrance welcomes you to a tribal mood. Lantern lights, tropical palm trees, outdoor dining split into two sections. One being the main serving area and the other space in the garden. As we were there during the “What About Kuching 2018 Festival”, our arrival were greeted by the local musicians that soothingly strummed on the traditional Sape instrucment adding charm to the ambiance. Lepau restaurant offers food enthusiasts ethnic dishes from the Orang Ulu and Dayak tribe. Till this day we are still reminded by the food experience we had at Lepau. We tried their delicious broth base Ayam Pansuh which is chicken cooked with tapioca leaves in a bamboo, stir fried midin (a type of fern) with belacan (shrimp paste), fish umai (fish salad), deep fried salted fish (acquired taste but not to be missed by those who are open to the authentic local flavor). The salted fish is to be eaten bit by bit (as it is salty) with rice and not to put the whole big chunk in your mouth. The dishes are served with brown rice cooked in a special leaf (not too sure what it’s called). We couldn’t recommend this restaurant enough.

As we retired for the day and as night took charge, Kuching city comes to live. A buzz of man-made energy filled the atmosphere. Different tones of light from the streets, from the vehicles of city dwellers rushing back home or nearby dining area, from the diamond like neon beams that enhance the silhouette of a building. Seeing it from the window of our hotel room, it was as if the glitter fairy came and scattered magical glow to the night.

Selamat Malam Kuching. You have treated us well on our first day here and we look forward to many more days discovering you further.

https://www.bikeandtours.com/en/malaysia/sarawak

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The Byzantian Istanbul

                                                                                                                April 2018

The trip promised to be weird from the very start. My other friend just coming back from Istanbul. People I wouldn't dare imagine together hopping on board the company. Health issues I kept from my last trip, meddling with my walking ambitions. It all drowned in sweet black tea between the minaret spires.

Suleymaniye Mosque, medrese, view on Bosphorus

Immersing Quaint Serenity

The older I get, the more inventive ways of getting to the final destination I develop. This time I experienced flying from a different city, with additional thrills of leaving home early the day before, spending the night at a friend's place and meeting half of my company at the airport (who took the train from Kiev to Kharkiv).

I must admit I thoroughly hate airplanes. My vestibular apparatus gives me the chills every time we take off - and especially as we land. I still have nightmares about a flight to Georgia, when our plane was caught in a storm and we couldn't land for nearly an hour, finally forcing the crew to fly us to Tbilisi instead of Kutaisi. What a ride that was!

Well, this one was better, though not by much. Naturally, having a sleepless night before the flight was a bad idea - but neither me nor my mom could resist the temptation. The friend who sheltered us for the night has the most peculiar hobby among all of my acquaintances (and that including a colleague who's into clay crafting and my own fascination with quantum mechanics): she collects, restores and renews vintage-to-antique dolls.

By the end of her tour over quite an impressive collection we felt as though we got our share of wonder for the trip. Next morning, getting up was an experience straight from hell - I muttered and grumbled through my morning coffee. Added my inability to walk properly and a severe cold I was holding back, Istanbul wasn't the experience I was looking for.

That is, until we finally arrived, left our bags and left for a late afternoon walk. The charm of Istanbul captures you even before you see its magnificent sights. It's not the modern gloss that gets your attention first, nor the minarets that you definitely use for locating yourself in a big city, neither the Roman aqueduct subtly leading your gaze to the historic downtown. It all starts with the small street vendors selling fruits and even smaller cafes that serve almost exclusively coffee in tiny porcelain cups. I have rarely seen women in such street cafes; it's mostly reserved for older men who spend their time over steaming cups, cigarettes and small talk.

For Turkish coffee, finely ground beans are of utmost importance - and no filtering! Coffee is served with the sediment, and it is traditionally strong. Turkish coffee is served in kahve finjanı, a tiny porcelain cup usually standing in an intricate metal holder. A nice souvenir from Istanbul for coffee maniacs like myself.

Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul

But, of course, there is this unique feel about the Turkish architecture and urban planning. Walking down the hill, Istanbul is just a large bustling city, but the enclosed gardens beside the mosques give off the authentic serene atmosphere perfect for silent contemplation. Suleymaniye mosque is probably the most prominent for catching the glimpse of how it used to be couple hundred years ago, with the meditatively slow pace of life and dignified discussions among the pundits. I believe that's the reason why, for me, the cascading roofs of Suleymaniye medrese most associate with the Muslim Istanbul.

The Three Circles of Constantinople

Hagia Sofia, Istanbul

Istanbul is one of those cities that possess a complicated character reflecting their long influential history. Starting as the city of Constantine, the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, it was succeeded by Ottomans and then transformed into a modern city bearing along the invasive European influences. Consequently the city is built in circles that show its growth through the ages.

The first circle is based around Hagia Sofia, the former Orthodox Christian cathedral turned mosque that bears the title of the epitome of Byzantine architecture. Its large dome is a marvel in itself - looking up at it from the ground, it's hard to wrap your head around the fact that it was built in 6 AD. The preserved frescoes and modern art installation add to the massive charm of Hagia Sofia. But what impressed me most were the reared stone floors. The slabs are uneven and shiny from the many centuries of use, and parts of them sink in a way that make our anxiety peak. Despite the massive size, it gives the thrilling sensation that the whole construction can skid and slump if you set your foot in the wrong place.

Hagia Irene, Constantinople

Beside Hagia Sofia, there's another monument of the antique Byzantine Empire, Basilica Cictern. The vast underground space used for storing water delivered via Valens Aqueduct was an important part of the city's infrastructure, and today is a curious, moist and cool place to visit. Add the former hippodrome before the Blue Mosque and Hagia Irene near Topkapı Palace, and you have the first circle of Constantinople.

Visiting Hagia Irene wasn't initially on my must-see list, but I sure as hell don't regret it. Lacking the crowds of Hagia Sofia (oh, the lines!), this cathedral preserves the unique spirit of solemn tranquility that you get from Roman architecture - only this one is clearly Byzantine. The amphitheater located in the apsis at the far end of the nave gives off such strong ancient vibes that it feels like a lost link between Roman and Romanesque architectural styles.

Second circle of Istanbul clearly dates to the Ottoman empires and gives the city its obviously Muslim appearance. The muezzins will wake you up early in the morning if you're a light sleeper. The minarets are useful to guide your way through the city - and also to tell the mosques apart.

Blue Mosque has 6 minarets, an unprecedented case; Hagia Sofia proudly bears 4, and most of the smaller mosques have 2.

The palaces of Topkapı and Dolmabahce offer a glimpse into the life of Ottoman royalty. Personally, I was fascinated by the famous Iznik tiles and liked the seral chambers, but the Topkapı Palace left me unimpressed for the most part. But the Turkish bazaar is a cultural experience not to miss: an idiosyncratic trading tradition with impressive set of goods from spices (go to Egyptian Bazaar near New Mosque) to sweets and from clothes to dinnerware. The Grand Bazaar that reflects its name spectacularly covers not just several blocks but is a city in itself. You can easily get lost in the winding labyrinth of narrow streets running up and down, turning, encircling and closing in dead ends.

Dowager Queen chambers, seral, Topkapı Palace

And then there's the final, third circle of Istanbul that defines the city as one of the modern centers of culture and trade. This one is vast and encompasses both European and Asian parts of the city, spanning across Boshoprus.

Galata Tower, Istanbul

This part of Istanbul was pure delight. It was fun riding one of the oldest subways in the world. It's short, and it used to be taken uphill by the horses. Under the ground. How is that not amazing. And then there's a historic tram that goes all the way along Istiklal Caddesi (basically Independence Avenue) - unfortunately, due to the crowds, the didn't get to ride that one.

The street itself is of huge interest - aside from the many, many shops, boutiques and cafes of all sorts, it also has European architecture and even churches and cathedrals due to the fact that this part of the city was the location of European trading districts. I fancied the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua due to its location and a curious twisted iron monument of Christ on the cross at the entrance.

As this part of Istanbul is situated on a steep hill, the streets are peculiar and distinct. The branching narrow streets up and down the hill open your eyes to shopping galleries and cozy cafes with pacifying views over the Bosphorus neck. But if there's no time to spend, the Galata Tower is that one site to look for.

Tulips, Tea and the Big Water

Tulips in Fatih, Istanbul

Part of the reason why we chose April to visit Istanbul was due to the tulip irruption the city is famous for. There is something about this simple flower that grand empires just can't resist.

Even tea in Istanbul is traditionally served in small glasses of a rather specific form that reminds a tulip.

Flowers in April, even if its windy and grey, is exactly the reminder of a close spring that revives the senses after a long winter dream. Tulips can be found throughout the city at this time of year, but the Gülhane Park is the real deal. Whatever color you think, there are tulips of that and its shades, at times mixed with others. The lakes of tender blue grape hyacinth intermingle with the vast seas of heavy-headed roses, gentle slopes covered in multicolored breath of spring. Due to health condition and the fact we've been walking the whole day, I could barely stand on my feet, which didn't stop me from anchoring to my friends and limping along the alleys with tears of wonder in my eyes. Or maybe that was the wind in my face.

Seeing all we came to see and having our last evening in Istanbul, there was one last combo to try, Bosphorus and black tea. As major cities standing on water tend to do at the lack of bridges, Istanbul offers half-touristy water transport that takes you on a short trip upstream the Bosphorus. It makes stops along the way, serving in part as public transport, and also takes you from the Western, European to Eastern, Asian part of the city. But by far the best part of these boats is that they serve tea along the way. You could find no public more appreciative than us, cold and tired after a long chilly walk. I literally lost count of the hot cups I had. Along with beautiful skies reflected in the restless waters, the night lights of the big city and the glimpses of the sites we didn't have time to visit (like eerily lit Bosphorus Bridge, Maiden's Tower surrounded by waves and Rumeli Hisarı fortress cascading down the hill), it's one of the warmest memories I have from Istanbul.

Rumeli Hisarı (Boğazkesen Castle) fortress on the bank of Bosphorus

What to see:

Valens Aqueduct

Suleymaniye Mosque and Medresesi

New Mosque

Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar

Grand Bazaar

Blue Mosque

Hagia Sofia

Basilica Cictern

Gülhane Park

Hagia Irene

Topkapı Palace

Istiklal Caddesi

Galata Tower

Church of Saint Anthony of Padua

What to eat:

Turkish coffee

tea (black and sweet)

sweets (honeyed baklava and rahat lokum)

kebap (grilled meat in whatever way you can imagine)

döner (specialty fish, fresh from Bosphorus)

bulgur pilavı (oatmeal side dish)

cacık (fresh cucumbers side dish)

In short

The Blue Mosque was under reconstruction; pity

The ambiguous tripartite spirit of Istanbul is hard to grasp; but as you learn to know the city, it grows on you, and later you start seeing its traces in places throughout the world. The city uniting West and East, the city of contrasts, the city of reference. Istanbul is surprisingly young for the elder of its age.

[mastcomm]

Marfa’s Answer to the Collapse of Local News: Coffee and Cocktails

MARFA, Texas — When Landrie Moore was looking for a venue for her destination wedding, she knew she wanted a space that really reflected life in this small, remote desert town.

Her guests would be coming from as far as Ecuador and England, and Ms. Moore, 35, who works for a boutique hotel firm, hoped to provide a memorable and authentic experience for those travelers. When you visit a new place, she said in a phone interview, “you want to feel like a local.”

Which is why she decided to get married mere feet from the office of The Big Bend Sentinel, the region’s oldest newspaper (where I worked as a reporter in 2014 and 2015).

Ms. Moore’s wedding, in June, was the first of five held last year in the Sentinel, a cafe and cocktail bar in the newspaper’s newly renovated office building. The space is perhaps the most visible sign that The Big Bend Sentinel is under new ownership: Maisie Crow and Max Kabat, two transplants from New York, took over last year from Robert and Rosario Halpern, the paper’s publishers of 25 years.

“We kind of saw us in a way,” Mr. Halpern said of the couple.

“Buy a newspaper?” Mr. Kabat, 37, recalled thinking when the Halperns first approached him and Ms. Crow about a potential sale. “What are we, idiots?” Their background is in consulting and documentary filmmaking. (The New York Times is a producer of a forthcoming film by Ms. Crow.)

Since 2004, nearly 20 percent of local papers in the United States have folded or merged, according to a 2018 study by the Hussman School of Media and Journalism at the University of North Carolina. In many cases, publishers have been replaced by a narrow network of large investment groups that have acquired hundreds of failing newspapers.

But Marfa is no ordinary town, and its newsweekly has been a pillar of the community for nearly a century — long before Marfa became cool. The Big Bend Sentinel’s pages are pasted up with major issues of the day (the death of Antonin Scalia, the Supreme Court justice, on a nearby luxury ranch, for example, and the possibility of a border wall just 60 miles away) alongside valedictorian announcements, photo spreads of homecoming events and advance coverage of the town’s many festivals.

Before Mr. Kabat and Ms. Crow took over, the paper ran solely on an ad sales and subscriptions. “It was able to sustain itself on a shoestring, but we wanted to expand the potential,” Ms. Crow, 38, said. They hoped to bring locals closer, physically, to the institution covering their hometown.

So they bought the building previously occupied by Padre’s, a dive bar that went out of business in 2016, and before that, a funeral home, and began renovations.

“We had to sage the whole place,” said Callie Jenschke, whom the couple hired to handle interior design.

She recognized that there was a familiar Marfa aesthetic that tourists had come to want and expect — “a nomadic austerity mixed with the warmth of the desert,” in her words — and married that with Scandinavian influences, including concrete floors and Hans Wegner chairs, while preserving the original adobe brick and plaster walled facade.

All the furniture had to be movable and multifunctional, Ms. Jenschke said, “because they didn’t really know how it was going to be used.” It could be a co-working space, Mr. Kabat and Ms. Crow thought initially, then decided a subscription model would go against their goal of inclusivity.

Instead, they landed on a cafe/bar where locals could work and tourists could recharge. They would rent the kitchen space to local cooks to serve food throughout the day. And though they wouldn’t make money off the food itself, they could turn a profit on drinks. Eventually, there would be requests to rent the space for private events.

On a visit in the fall, the morning crowd lined up for coffee, served in hand-thrown clay mugs and with the option of organic oat milk. By early afternoon, the bar offered watermelon ranch waters for happy hour. Newspapers were scattered on the surfaces of the space.

Next door, the Big Bend Sentinel’s staff squeezed into a dimly lit room just a fraction of the Sentinel’s size. Now and then, the two full-time reporters dropped into the cafe to refill their mugs.

A relic of the old office remains: a neon sign spelling out “newspaper.” In the evenings, when the light is turned on, the office glows red from within.

Sometimes the reporters work out of the Sentinel, which functions as a kind of public square. “It’s a great way to keep my finger on the pulse and get new leads and find stories,” said Abbie Perrault, 27, the managing editor.

For legal reasons, Ms. Crow and Mr. Kabat have decided to keep the businesses separate on paper. In Texas, any business with a Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission license for serving alcohol is subject to warrantless searches by law enforcement, and they didn’t want to take that risk with the newsroom.

Still, the couple sees the Sentinel as a natural extension of the paper. During editorial meetings, the staff discusses greenlighting private events. When a political candidate asked to rent the space to host a meet-and-greet, they declined, concerned it might violate the ethics of the newspaper.

Since Ms. Crow and Mr. Kabat took over, they have expanded the newspaper’s digital platform, which has seen a 7 percent increase in traffic, Mr. Kabat said, and broadened its photographic coverage. At the newspaper’s sister publication, The International, which the couple also owns and which serves the largely Spanish-speaking neighboring border town of Presidio, every article is now translated into Spanish. They added a crossword puzzle and Sudoku to both papers, too.

The newspapers still sell ads, which account for the majority of revenue. But with additional income from private events and day-to-day drink sales, the publishers have been able to keep yearly subscription costs steady: $50 for area residents and $60 for anyone outside.

“If people come in and buy a coffee and buy something from our shop, rent the space, buy a cocktail, whatever it is, their dollar isn’t just going to that,” Ms. Crow said. “Their dollar is going to support something larger.”

from WordPress https://mastcomm.com/life-style/marfas-answer-to-the-collapse-of-local-news-coffee-and-cocktails/

[wikitopx]

When you visit Raleigh, N.C., these are essential to check now.

From famous state-owned museums to some of the best restaurants in the country, you haven't fully experienced the destination until you check these out on your list.

[toc]

1. The Ultimate Fall Bucket List in Raleigh, N.C

So long summer, hello fall! Raise your hands, who is ready for the falling leaves, cooler weather, hearty feasts, N.C. State Fair adventures, explore museums and all sorts of pumpkins?

We have big plans for the coming months in Raleigh, N.C.! To jump-start your plans and keep you busy during this gorgeous time of year, we've put together this list of 30 items for your fall bucket list, perfect for planning a trip to the Raleigh area with friends and family. Need more inspiration?

2. Carolina Hurricanes

Location: 1400 Edwards Mill Rd., PNC Arena, Raleigh, NC 27607 Area: West Raleigh/N.C. State Univ/PNC Arena

The NHL's Carolina Hurricanes play at PNC Arena, Oct.-Apr. For ticket information, call 866.NHL.CANES or visit CarolinaHurricanes.com/tickets. For general information, visit the website.

3. Exhibition Puts Works from Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera on Display at North Carolina Museum of Art

Big news, art fans! Two new exhibitions will fill the galleries at the North Carolina Art Museum in Raleigh this fall.

Make your plans now to explore the work of two of the world’s most revered artists—Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera—in a remarkable exhibition of their masterpieces (and surely one of the museum’s most popular exhibits for years to come), plus see oil paintings from Avett Brothers band member Scott Avett in his first solo museum exhibition.

Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Masterpieces of Modern Mexico from the Jacques and Natasha Gelman Collection will open on Sat., Oct. 26, 2019, and run through Sun., Jan. 19, 2020. This exhibit will be ticketed in conjunction with Scott Avett: INVISIBLE, which will run through Sun., Feb. 2, 2020.

4. Ashley Christensen Restaurants

Chef Ashley Christensen's drinking, dining and event spaces are smart, stylish and inviting, the sort of places where you're just as likely to see tuxedos as T-shirts. Focus on food, done seasonally, simply and correctly, using a portion of fresh ingredients, many of which are grown on artisanal farms or harvested from the nearby coast.

5. Raleigh Beer Trail

From Wake Forest to Raleigh to Holly Springs and Fuquay-Varina, the Raleigh area's 30+ breweries have barstools waiting just for you and your friends. If you like to try different beers, Raleigh Beer Trail is designed for you. Check-in at the breweries you visit in the Raleigh area and earn prizes. The more you visit, the more prizes you'll earn.

6. Food Halls in Raleigh, N.C

Raleigh's food scene? It's booming. Passionate mind and James Beard Award-winning chef Ashley Christensen was named national Chef of the Year by Eater;

Garland co-owner and chef Cheetie Kumar earned a raving piece in The New York Times, and Maggie Kane's A Place At The Table earned a feature on The TODAY Show Opens in New Window thanks to the pay-what-you-can cafe's noble mission to provide the community healthy food for all.

What else is booming? Food halls. The trend of building large venues containing a larger number of smaller restaurants Neighborhoods and shopping malls moored in metropolitan areas throughout the United States have officially landed in Raleigh, NC, with Morgan Street Food Hall and Transfer Co. Food Hall nation.

7. Upcoming Concerts

Here, why: because Raleigh has the most live music in North Carolina. Most dates, the most venues, the most bands, the most genres, almost every music believer can hope to find.

You can find a show here every day of the year and from one end of the county to the other. Big band, small band, slow band, fast band, hard rock, and soft ballads. Large-scale arenas, medium-sized concert halls, mother and pop houses, and divers only know the locals. All. Find. Here.

8. North Carolina Museum of History

North Carolina has a fascinating history, and if you want to discover all of it in a dynamic and immersive setting, then the North Carolina Museum of History is the place to go. Located in downtown Raleigh, the museum showcases more than 14,000 years and 150,000 artifacts of N.C. history.

9. North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences

A trip to Raleigh provides a unique opportunity to experience one of the Southeast’s most valuable cultural resources and one of the nation’s most amazing museums about the natural world.

The North Carolina Museum of Natural Science is the most visited museum in the state of Pennsylvania, and its high standards are reflected in association with the Smithsonian Institution.

If you love museums and are fascinated with the natural world around you, this is one spot you simply can’t miss. The museum includes four floors of exhibits in its Nature Exploration Center and Nature Research Center—some including live animals—plus gift shops and cafes serving up delicious food.

All exhibits can easily be explored through various self-guided tours.

10. North Carolina State Capitol

Address: 1 E. Edenton St., Raleigh, NC 27601 Area: Downtown Raleigh

Completed in 1840, this National Historic Site is one of the best-preserved examples of a Greek Renaissance-style civilian building. It originally housed the governor's office, cabinet offices, legislative chambers, state library, and state geologist's office.

The building was restored from 1840 to 1865. Admission is free. Hours: Mon-Sat., 9 am to 5 pm; close the sun.

More ideals for you: Top 10 things to do in Jacksonville

From : https://wikitopx.com/travel/top-10-things-to-do-in-raleigh-nc-703848.html

[daisycactus20-blog]

Why You Need to Visit Gothenburg and its Archipelago in West Sweden

This is a sponsored post in partnership with the Göteborg & Co.. All words and opinions are my own. Thank you for supporting the brands that help us do what we do!

We recently had the opportunity to travel to Gothenburg, Sweden (or Göteborg). If you’ve been following us on social media, you probably saw a ton of Insta Stories and posts about it. We were there to attend the Way Out West festival, as well as to explore this beautiful city. Needless to say, we were so smitten that we couldn’t help but take a million photos (677 to be exact) and to share the experience with you.

Sweden has been on my “wish list” of places to visit for years. But to be honest, I wasn’t familiar with Gothenburg, its second largest city on the West Coast. I had always assumed that a trip to Sweden would land me in Stockholm. But Gothenburg caught me by surprise. And quite frankly, swept me off my feet. If you’re planning a trip to Sweden, a stop on the West Coast is a must.

Given its location, Gothenburg had for years been a major port; more of an industrial city than its glitzy, high-fashion counterpart. But in the last few years, this city, which locals described to me as “laid back,” and “cozy” — a favorite word of Swedes — has seen a dramatic change.

Old buildings have been renovated and now house cool mixed indoor / outdoor spaces. There’s a huge focus on sustainability (both in terms of architecture, as well as in food and fashion). And there’s a general feeling that they’re on the edge of becoming the “next hot place” to visit (listen up New York Times and Afar!). Not to mention, of course, music is a big part of this city; the Way Out West Festival is held in Slottsskogen, its beautiful urban park, which is easily accessible by public transit.

It’s hard to choose highlights from the trip because, quite honestly, everything felt like a highlight. Our room in the Comfort Hotel, a hip chain in Scandinavia and the Baltics, faced the water and beautiful city that meets its edge.

Every day, we indulged in a delicious breakfast spread before heading out to explore the cobblestoned streets. Of course, most people will tell you to head straight to the Haga district, a historical shopping and dining area that’s now home to well-to-do young families and the giant cinnamon rolls the size of your head. Given its central location, we ended up strolling through numerous times and each time felt no less magical.

pictured in my favorite, go-to travel Everlane Wide Leg Cropped Pants (c/o)

The Magasinsgatan shopping district is the place to pick up both high-end goods, visit global chains, as well as to immerse yourself in local Swedish brands. There are plenty of restaurants, cafes (most notably, Da Matteo), and bars here. Like Lisbon, where yellow trams are ever-present, Gothenberg’s light-blue ones are ubiquitous. But that’s not the only way to get around the city. You can hop on a boat or in a canoe to navigate your way under dozens of flower-adorned bridges. Get yourself a three day transit pass and you can hop on and off as much as you want (you can even rent bikes!).

Another magical spot right inside the city? Trädgårdsföreningen, the dreamy The Garden Society of Gothenburg, and 1878 Palm House. This is perhaps one of the most Instagrammable spots in the city, and also one of the most relaxing. Surrounded by gardens, the Palm House is filled with cacti, palms, a lily pond, and a lovely seating area where you can lazy away the day with a book. If you get caught in the rain, I can’t think of a better place to wait it out.

Our initial plans only vaguely included a trip out to the archipelago. But once we arrived and realized how easy it was to get out to the islands, we booked our way there. Locals will recommend you allot an entire day for a trip out there, but honestly, it’s so quick that even if you have just a few hours, you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to zoom over on one of the fast ferries that take off from Salthammen.

The island of Vrångö, which was our first stop, is the southernmost inhabited of the islands (with just 300ish residents). No cars are allowed on the island, making it tranquil beyond imagination. You can literally walk around the entire island, along the coast, through its nature preserve, and through the little neighborhood. Find yourself a slice of sea, a warm rock, and you’re set for however long you’re lucky enough to stay. The sweet cafe just across from the ferry is the perfect spot to sip on your coffee, grab some lunch, and squeeze every last minute of your trip.

Another island we had the opportunity to visit was Styrsö, which was equally as beautiful, albeit felt just a tad more populated. Here you’ll be able to hike up to a historical point and be rewarded with a jaw-dropping view of the surrounding islands in the archipelago. You’ll also be able to grab a bite at Cafe Oberska which, to our great dismay, was closed for a private event when we visited. Everyone we talked to raved about the amazing food and atmosphere here.

Both Vrångö and Styrsö are great places to swim, so if you happen to be visiting on a warm summer day, pack your swimsuit! Cars are also not allowed on Styrsö, but you can rent a bike from one of the small hotels on the island (or bring your own). It amazed us both that we could feel so remote and in just an hour, be back in the city center (and at a major music festival). This is the kind of balance we really loved in Gothenburg: it felt like we were exploring a city, but it was easygoing and chill.

Food-wise, there’s a ton going on in the city. The focus on sustainability means that you’ll find inventive vegetarian and vegan spots, “natural” wines, but also fusion cuisine (dumplings, Thai, sushi). If you’re European, you’re probably already familiar with Oatly (based in Malmö, Sweden). I was obsessed with all of their widely-available offerings in restaurants, coffee shops, and at supermarkets. Oatly, if you’re listening, please bring your vegan ice cream (which we got to sample at Way Out West) State-side.

It’s been over a month since we returned from our trip and I can honestly say that it was one of the best trips I’ve ever taken. Gothenburg, you stole my heart! I’ve pulled together a list of spots we enjoyed. Stay tuned for a music-focused post (all about record stores and with snaps from Way Out West) from Matt soon!

Stay

Comfort Hotel Göteborg 

This is where we were stationed for the duration of our stay, and I can’t recommend it enough. The location was great (close to public transit, with a lovely view of the water), the daily breakfast was fantastic (like, way better than most hotel breakfasts), and our room was super comfy. Plus, the vibe in the lobby is super cozy and there’s a great rooftop bar.

Eat and Drink

Totale

Our first dinner was at this fantastic neighborhood spot, and we both agreed it was probably our favorite meal of the trip. You can eat creative dishes made with locally-sourced ingredients, beautiful wood-fired pizza, and wash it all down with natural wine. The decor is also super cute and hip.

Da Matteo Café

This coffee shop and bakery is perhaps the most famous in Gothenburg (they even won the award for best roaster in Sweden!). We brought a bag of heirloom coffee beans home with us to enjoy. They have a couple of locations, but you have to try their pastries; they are truly the best.

Restaurang Gabriel

This fish restaurant is actually at the top of the “fish church” and we had the most lovely and delicious meal here (all the fresh seafood your heart desires!). This is a great spot for lunch, especially if you find yourself in a downpour. The owner of the restaurant happens to be a former World Champion in Oyster Shucking (x2!).

Feskekörka

The “fish church,” as it is lovingly called,  is the triangle building you see in the photos above. Here, you can buy fresh seafood and also pick up a light lunch, which you can eat at the picnic tables overlooking the water.

Le-Gbg

Admittedly, I dragged Matt to this Instagram-worthy spot, which I found by looking at the Instagram Nathalie Cuti, a Swedish singer who happened to be performing at Cafe Gazette the evening we ate there! If you’re into wellness and looking for beautiful smoothie bowls, healthy-ish pancakes, and the like, you’ll love this sunny spot.

Kafé Magasinet

Another iconic Gothenburg eatery, this is a gorgeous, plant-filled space that is housed is a formerly-abandoned auction house, and is a must visit. You can grab pizzas, bagels, coffee, and beers here. This would be a sweet spot to enjoy a book, too.

Saluhallen market hall

This famous food hall is filled with deliciousness, and also happens to be a beautiful space to wander and oggle, and tempt your appetite..

Basque (tapas bar)

We stumbled upon this bar late one evening after Way Out West, and were positively smitten. They lay out tapas (small bites) on their counter, so you can grab what you want and they add it up later. Also, we learned that in Sweden, most places only serve low-alcoholic beer, but here, you’ll find the most impressive selection of beers, including ones made at local breweries. The bartender was super friendly, too. Go check out this spot for a bite and a drink!

Restaurang Sjöbaren

We really wanted to hit at least one “super traditional” Swedish restaurant, and this one, in the Haga, did not disappoint. We really enjoyed trying some old school dishes here. The restaurant itself feels casual — with wooden walls, and is situated on the main street in the Haga, so it’s a great place to grab a seat at the window and enjoy some people watching.

FORSSÉN ÖBERG – Champagnebar

This champagne bar is situated in a beautiful courtyard where you’ll also find a tiny record shop (more on that in the next guide). It’s absolutely adorable. On a warm summer night, you should grab yourself a glass of bubbly and relax under the beautiful trees.

Café Gazette

The night we ate at this hip restaurant, they were hosting Nathalie Cuti, a local musician, to kick off Way Out West. The scene here felt VERY COOL and we were curious how the food would be. It turned out, delicious. Small share plates were a great way to sample virtually everything on the menu. There’s a game room in the back, and lots of beers, plus an awesome outdoor area.

Cafe Obergska (on Styrsö)

I feel weird including this because we didn’t actually go here, but it is obvious to me that if you head to Styrsö and you are looking for food, Cafe Obergska is a must. Sadly, we were on the island on a day when they were closed for a private event, but it looked insanely charming and everyone I talked to said that the food is amazing here, too. In fact, an older couple we chatted with told us that they would sometimes decide to hop over from Gothenburg on a sunny day just to have breakfast here.

Skärgårdens Café (on Vrångö)

This is the only cafe on the island of Vrångö and you can’t miss it as it is literally right in front of where the ferry drops off. Sitting here, eating my lunch, and watching our ferry pull up was maybe one of the saddest moments of the trip as I did not want to leave this magical island. No joke, when I want to think of something warm and happy, I’ve been mentally returning here.

The food at Way Out West

I can’t not talk about the food at the Way Out West festival (more on that from Matt soon!), which is completely vegetarian. We tried to sample ALL THE THINGS but the most unique thing I saw there (and I spotted it right away) was the active charcoal burger. I thought it was so cool that all the food trucks at the festival, even ones that aren’t typically vegetarian, adapted all their menus. Honestly, and somewhat ironically, given Sweden’s connection to the sea, I came back from Gothenburg feeling like I need to eat less meat and seafood.

See

Trädgårdsföreningen, Garden Society of Gothenburg

This park is a can’t miss, in my humble opinion. It’s peaceful and beautiful, and the Palm House is absolutely stunning. Not to mention, it’s free. Being here makes you feel like you don’t have a care in the world. If you’re in Gothenburg for a few days, come here with a packed lunch and a book.

Haga old town

The historic part of the city oozes with charm. Come here for a fika (get the GIANT cinnamon buns) and do some shopping, too!

Slottsskogen City Park

This was the location of Way Out West, but this lovely urban park is well-worth a visit even when there’s no festival happening. As someone who used to live blocks from Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, I so appreciate urban green spaces like this one. You can get here on a tram or bus, or rent one of the city bikes!

Paddan Sightseeing

Ok, when we first saw a boat tour on our itinerary, I was a bit skeptical. I’m not really a boat person, nor a tour person, but this ended up being so fun! You get to see the city from the water, passing under tons of bridges. Not to mention, we learned a lot about Gothenburg’s roots: its shipyards and role in wars, its relationship with Norway and Denmark, and how it has come out of a recession.

Shop

Artilleriet

This is hands down the most beautiful interior shop in Gothenburg. The kitchen part of the shop, though, is the dreamiest part…those yummy green walls..

Grandpa

If you’re looking to pick up a cool Swedish raincoat, sunglasses, or sweater, head over to this store. You’ll find Grandpa in the same square as Da Matteo . You’ll have a hard time leaving empty handed (you’ve been warned).

Twist and Tango

I stumbled upon this store in the Haga during their blowout summer clearance, and walked out with a pair of leather blush pink slides. They started in Gothenburg but also have a location in Stockholm. I’m not a fan of kitschy souvenirs, but shoes I can do. Check it out! They also have an online shop, but sadly don’t ship to the U.S.

Source: https://www.turntablekitchen.com/2018/09/gothenburg-west-sweden/

[passportsymphony]

What to expect when traveling to Turkmenistan, one of the last police states in Central Asia

Turkmenistan is a socialist, tightly controlled by the police, country in Central Asia roughly the size of Thailand, inhabited by only 5 million people. However, it’s a country with a rich history, and definitely a must-visit place. If you’re wondering what to expect when traveling to Turkmenistan, keep reading. This former Soviet country is home to the biggest archeological site in Central Asia, the former biggest city in the world, the door to hell, the birthplace of the Zoroastrianism and arguably the strangest capital in the world. To add to that, petrol is cheaper than water here.

The bad part about traveling to Turkmenistan is that outside of Ashgabat you need to have a guide. In fact, you need to have a letter from a tourist agency in order to obtain a visa. And the whole process will take around 6 weeks. Yes, that means you will have to do all the exploring accompanied by a guide. And you have to pay for them and their meals which will cost around $30 – $50 USD. They can let you roam around Ashgabat and other big cities alone but you’re legally forbidden to travel around the country without them. Additionally, tourists are charged a tourist tax of $2 USD per day. You will see this on your hotel bill.

A few things you should know about Turkmenistan

Avoid walking alone in the north-east of Ashgabat, especially in the late evenings. These areas are notorious for drugs trade and violent crimes.

Turkmen are the only people in Central Asia that don’t eat horse meat. In fact, the Ahal Tekke horse breed, which is one of the fastest and strongest in the world, is their national symbol. Today, there are only 2,800 horses of this breed, mostly because the Bolsheviks were slaughtering them for food during the Soviet era.

You can find prostitutes in the Florida Disco on Gorogly Street but you don’t want that. I’ve seen a lot of tourists that were imprisoned, harassed by the police or even deported just because they were accompanied by a prostitute.

Since I mentioned it, if you actually are harassed by the police, you will need to find a translator. The Turkmen police officers only understand Turkmen.

Most hotel rooms are bugged so be careful what you say. Never forget that the big brother is watching.

If you’re traveling as an unmarried couple, you won’t be allowed to share a hotel room.

Homosexuality is illegal in Turkmenistan and punishable by law.

Police have the right and power to stop and search you on the street at any time. So if that happens to you, stay calm and don’t let them put their hands in your pocket in the process. You don’t want to end up as a victim of drug planting in a country with notoriously corrupted police that seems to have unlimited power.

Smoking is completely banned in public areas, including the streets. However, you can find some restaurants and cafes where this is allowed.

Finally, if you’re sending a postcard, government agents will probably check what you wrote before they actually send it out. Keep that in mind.

Watch out for the weather… Seriously!

Most of Turkmenistan is made up of the Karakum Desert. Hence, the temperatures in Ashgabat in the summer go up to 50° C, making travel really difficult. What makes things even worse is that most Turkmen leave their gas stoves burning 24/7. Why? As you may or may not know, Turkmenistan is a country that has an abundance of gas, which is free for all citizens. However, lighters and matches aren’t. Apparently, that’s enough reason to have your stove burning all the time.

Don’t underestimate the curfew

Funny enough, according to government sources, Turkmenistan is a crime-free state. This is, obviously not correct but it is a fairly safe country. One of the reasons is the police curfew that doesn’t allow anyone to be out on the streets after 11 PM. And you should too. Trust me you don’t want to get in trouble with the Turkmen police, one of the most corrupted and notorious units in the world.

No travel zones

There are several regions in Turkmenistan that have been declared as restricted areas. These are the areas surrounding the Caspian Coast, the borders with Iran, Uzbekistan, and Afghanistan and the Dashoguz region. If you still want to visit one or more of the restricted areas, you need permission from the government. Keep in mind that Turkmenistan Airlines will not even sell you a ticket to one of these regions if you don’t have that permission. The whole process of getting that permit takes at least 10 days.

Be careful with the ‘Cargo Ferries’

If you’re browsing the internet or going through guidebooks, you’ll probably come across the ferries that travel the Caspian Sea. They enter the port in Western Turkmenistan from either Iran or Azerbaijan. These ‘ferries’ are in fact cargo ships that take passengers if they have enough space. The main issue if you would like to go on this adventure I the fact that you might not have enough food and water to make the trip. Don’t even get me started about the toilet and sleeping facilities. And the worst part is that when ships reach the port, they often wait at least a week for a vacant dock because everything goes so fast in Turkmenistan. Hence, I’ve met some travelers that had their Turkmen visa expire while they were waiting in the ferry with very limited resources of food and water.

Ashgabat, a capital like no other

When you land in Ashgabat, there will be no sign welcoming you or telling you where you are. There’s not even a sign marking the terminals or anything of that kind. In 1948, a major earthquake completely destroyed the city, killing over 100,000 people. After that the city was rebuilt in completely Soviet style. However, after 1991, Turkmenbashi came to power. Yes, he changed his last name to “leader (or father) of all Turkmen”, building a personality cult similar to the North Korean dictators. 

The eccentric dictator completely changed the face of Ashgabat. The city had to look appropriately for what he claimed to be the Golden Era of Turkmenistan. That’s how we got modern Ashgabat. A brand new city full of sterile white marble and golden statues, surrounded by teeming bazaars, mosques, and mysterious alleys.

Have in mind that internet is almost non-existent in Turkmenistan and heavily controlled by the government. There are only 4 internet cafes in the capital with a horrific connection. On top of that, there are pictures of the president everywhere just to remind you that the big brother is watching.

The forgotten city of Merv

Located in the middle of the Silk Road, Merv was arguably the largest city in the world in the 10th century. After the establishment of the Silk Road, the city of Merv was growing with the speed of light. Until Genghis Kahn’s son slaughtered 700,000 people in 1221. Today, this is the largest archeological site in Central Asia and a place where the empires of Alexander the Great, Genghis Kahn and the Soviet Union meet. The whole place just smells of history and it seems like it connects these three, at first sight, completely unrelated empires. If you’re a sucker for history (like me) Merv is a place you need to visit at least once in your life.

Gonur Tepe

Back in the days, this place was a real trade hub, covering over 3,000 square kilometers and countless of settlements on the Murgab River. Only a three hours driving from Merv, you will find Gonur Tepe. This ancient place is supposedly the birthplace of the Zoroastrianism and a home to one of the oldest civilizations in the world! The old temples and palaces look completely different than anything you’ve seen before and they’re in a surprisingly good condition.

The door to hell

The Darvaza Gas Crater looks like it came out of a Sci-Fi movie. That’s how it got its name: “A door to hell”. I don’t know if there is a door to hell on our planet but if there is I bet it would look like this. Back in the 1970s, Soviet scientists discovered what they thought was an oil deposit. But when they started drilling they were really surprised when they realized that was actually a gas deposit. The area completely collapsed releasing gas all over the place. The scientists thought the gas was poisonous so they set the whole place on fire. 50 years down the stretch- that fire is still burning. This is something you can’t see anywhere in the world and it’s slowly emerging as Turkmenistan’s main tourist attraction.

Karakum Desert

When I came here I was expecting to see nothing but sand dunes and camel riders. However, I was in for a big surprise in the Repetek Nature Reserve in the middle of the desert. The reserve is a home to over 1,500 different species like vegetation of shrubs and thorny plants, invertebrates and other small animals. All this led to UNESCO making Repetek a Biosphere Preserve back in 1979. Karakum will definitely change the way you feel about deserts and it’s certainly a place worthy of your time.

Swimming Underground

Another amazing site is the Kow Ata Underground Lake, located in the Bakharden Cave, east from Ashgabad. It’s a sulfur lake which means that the water is naturally heated and the temperature is around 35°C. The lake also includes 37 other chemical elements and many people believe coming here a few times might help you cure pretty much any disease. To add to this amazing experience, once you get out of the lake you can lay down on a colorful Central-Asian style carpet and have some black tea and freshly grilled shashlik.

  The post What to expect when traveling to Turkmenistan, one of the last police states in Central Asia appeared first on Passport Symphony.

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[georgieandgreg2]

Viking Day 3: Giverny and Vernon

The Viking Rinda set sail after dinner, and by morning we were docked at Vernon, which is the port for Giverny, the home of the Impressionist painter Monet. Giverny is a short ride from Vernon, and from the bus park it is a pleasant short walk into the little village. Unsurprisingly, the businesses along the main road are cafes or gift shops with an artistic theme, but very nice ones with a high quality of goods.

Entering the grounds of the Monet property, we first went though a tunnel under the road that bisects the land, to the famous water garden. The water lilies were not blooming when we were there, but it was thrilling to be in that landscape. I had said that I wanted to stand on the Japanese bridge and look back to where Monet had stood when he painted it, and was able to approximate that. Monet may have been sitting in a boat for some of his paintings, but it turns out there are two bridges on the property, and standing on one gives you the view of the other as portrayed in Monet’s paintings.

While the water garden is fabulous, the “Clos Normandy” garden adjacent to the house is just amazing. There are nearly two acres of flowers planted in riotous profusion, separated by narrow paths, with more types of plants, and more colors of flowers than we had ever seen, especially for late in the year. The flowers are planted thickly and grow tall, frequently more than head high, and blooms bigger across than the length of one’s hand were common. The gardening staff there does a truly fantastic job, and it was a privilege to have seen it.

Monet’s house is also part of the tour, and it also was fascinating. It was a long, narrow house, only one room wide, so that nearly all of the rooms have natural light on two sides, and some, like Monet’s first-floor “studio”, on three. The studio room is more of an office and display space since Monet did so much of his paintings outdoors, or in two other studio spaces on the property. The room is hung with dozens of reproduction canvases, which, were they real, would be worth an incalculable sum. Other rooms of the house are hung with examples of Monet’s extensive collection of Japanese prints, which must in itself be worth many thousands of dollars--.

The house has been restored and furnished as it would have been in the artist’s day, and is fascinating to contemplate the gatherings of great artists that may have taken place in the yellow dining room or the blue kitchen.

After a last look at the gardens, we checked out the very attractive gift shop, and bought a calendar and some postcards. There were many, many books on Monet, the gardens, and Impressionism, but the one book we would have liked to have, a guide to the plants in the garden, didn’t seem to exist. (I did find books and references online, later, once we were home.)

Meandering back to the bus pickup, we looked into a couple of the very nice stores, and also checked out the Giverny Museum garden, which was also very nice. The sections that were coordinated by color were very effective. Back at the ship, a “Normandy lunch” was laid on, buffet style. On offer were charcutrie, mussels (BIG bowl of mussels--), pork, choucroute, potatoes, and an assortment of desserts including éclairs and madeleines. We passed on the mussels, but everything else was very good.

In the afternoon, a walking tour of Vernon was available, and we went along for it. Vernon is an interesting small city. Some of the buildings are 14th-16th century half-timbered buildings which sag and lean picturesquely. Others are postwar concrete buildings replacing those that were destroyed during World War II, when Canadian troops fought the Germans for the river crossing. The history of Post-war reconstruction holds numerous ironies. When we were in Germany, which lost the war, but was reconstructed with the help of the Marshall Plan, it’s often hard to tell that any damage occurred (at least in Western Germany). In France, which would have had to do things more on their own, it’s easy to see where destroyed buildings have been replaced. From a couple of our guides, I detected a lingering sense of grievance, not only because of the relative homeliness of the replacement buildings, but also that the concrete suppliers who rebuilt were the same people who had sold concrete to the Germans for fortifications during the occupation. The businessmen were fined for collaboration, but were too valuable to the reconstruction effort to suffer any serious consequences.

Vernon has a very interesting early Gothic church, which was also the source of critical commentary by our local guide. In the French Revolution, all the Church property in France was expropriated by the State, and never given back. “Collegial” churches (those maintained by communities of canons) became property of the national government, and parish churches became property of the local governments. Since then, the Catholic Church has been allowed to use them, but the governments still own the buildings. Of course this means that church maintenance is frequently dependent on municipal budgets, and, if the local administration is hostile to the Church things can be badly neglected. This certainly appeared to be the case with the church in Vernon, going back a while. Our guide pointed out that the windows are all plain glass, because the relatively modern stained glass windows hadn’t been deemed worthy of protection, and were blown out in the war. Close to the building, one can easily see crumbling and eroded stone, which was very sad.

The city also has the remnants of a castle originally built by Henry II of England, consisting of one well-preserved round tower, used for storage, and the ruins of another and parts of battlements. We walked through parts of the business district, and were very interested by the locally owned shops. There were some very interesting looking chocolatiers, pattisiers, and a really fascinating butcher’s shop.

As members of the “Viking Explorers’ Club,” meaning that we had traveled with them before, we were invited to a cocktail party that evening at 6:15. We went to see what it was like, but stuck with soft drinks initially. I got to talk to the Captain and co-captain and told them how much I admired the work they do, knowing how touchy river piloting can be. At the end of the party, we were offered an aquavit toast, with special aged aquavit. I did take the shot offered, and found it pretty good. (Quite a lot of the people didn’t finish theirs, though--.)

For dinner, we decided to get the lighter, quicker meal. In this case, the started offered was a mixed sampler of charcutrie and seafood salads. There was a green salad with yogurt dressing and beef tenderloin for main course. The beef was excellent, with very good flavor.

After dinner, a local artist and teacher, Patricia Rinski d’Argence, gave an elementary but entertaining talk on Impressionism.

[curatedglobaltravel]

Last Minute Holiday Getaway Ideas You'll Love For A Fabulous Winter

Do you need to end your year with something spectacular? Or find that guaranteed fabulous start to your new year? Scouring every corner of the globe, our experts have hand picked amazing destinations to escape to this winter! The perfect cure for those January blues! You’ll add a few more pages to your bucket list after reading our top destinations around the world, starting with...

 South America - Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Columbia

Feel the rhythms shake through your bones at the carnivals in Brazil. Explore the depths of the jungles of Peru, Ecuador, and Columbia. Experience and learn about the world’s biggest rain-forest, the Amazon. Really get people’s eyebrows raising when you tell them you’re going to spend the holidays in South America! Have a completely new winter holiday experience by basking in the sun on soft white sands and mesmerizing blue seas. Not a snowflake in sight! You’ll swap out your thick coats and big boots for light short-sleeve tops and sandals, whilst lapping up the luxuries of this unspoiled nature retreat on the water. Your family will love these adventure-packed destinations!

Quebec City, Canada

Still love wrapping up warm and heading out into the crisp winter days? Quebec City is full of Christmas delights that will fulfill your holiday spirits. Get lost in the popular German Christmas markets and villages, blanketed by the warm scents of honey roasted chestnuts and sweet treats. Learn to ice skate at Place D’Youville for that perfect winter photo. Explore one-of-a-kind UNESCO World Heritage treasures on an exciting carriage tour. To top it all off, stay in the most talked about hotel in the city, Hotel De Glace, an ice hotel that oozes frosty fantasies. Unique to North America (the only one of its kind), choose from 44 themed rooms and suites that have been injected with colorful lights. After a day of sightseeing and Christmas shopping, relax in the hotel’s many hot tubs and saunas. You’ll be totally whisked away into another world this Christmas.

 Sedona, Arizona

Stunning Sedona scenery awaits your itchy traveller feet! Escape the hectic Christmas scenes from home to a land where peace, healing, and wellness are set centre stage. Lose yourself gazing at the vast canyons and mesa’s. Find contentment at the healing spas. Be enlightened in the vibrant arts scene. Once you have found calm, energize yourself with horseback riding, rafting, biking, and other activities! You’ll be surprised how much you can do over this Christmas!

 London, England

London is electric at Christmas! Home to the most flamboyant shopping displays that provide passers by a theatrical show, you’ll be mesmerized by the energized department stores that Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Selfridge’s, and Liberty’s all create. Marvel at the sheer amount of Christmas lights on every street you turn, juxtaposed upon the quintessential old buildings of traditional London. Really take all this energy in by ice skating at Somerset House, joining in by candlelight with the carollers at the Royal Albert Hall, and sinking into a comfy seat watching The Nutcracker at The Royal Opera House. Families will love the many museums with great kids activities too! The V&A Museum is forever a popular choice, with The Science Museum right next door. Love Christmas? Love London!

 Tuscany, Italy

Get the best of Italy this Christmas without all the crowds. Experience a more peaceful Italy this December at the Toscana Resort Castelfalfi. Located in the heart of Tuscany, you’re never far from Italian culinary delights and fine wines, which can be grouped together with tours and tastings. You’ll also have the luxury to choose from unlimited golf and spa packages, to Christmas and New Year’s Eve specials that include live music and exquisite, romantic accommodations.

 Central America - Costa Rica, and Panama & Mexico

Jump on over to a culture rich destination paired with the some of the world’s most beautiful beaches! See the fascinating Chichen Itza in Yucatan, then venture down to Ek Balam for the well-preserved sculptures and carvings on the walls and temples. All that exploring needs the perfect sun, sand and sea treatment, so stretch out along the stunning beaches of Celestun and Progreso. Your family albums will be full of great memories from this trip!

 South Africa

Escape to The Cape! Often overlooked but never to disappoint, South Africa has sunshine, beaches, culture, food, and the world’s best safaris! See enormous elephants, lounging leopards, rumbling rhinos, and lions yawning ferociously in their natural habitats!

 The Caribbean

There are still many stunning islands open to visitors! Turks & Cacaos, the Dominican Republic, Grenada and more have announced that they are welcoming many back to vacation, with lots of spaces left! Dip your toes into the bright, turquoise seas lined with the whitest sands you’ll ever see!  Did you know you can volunteer your vacation time and help the many thousands in need? Just let us know and we can arrange one of the most rewarding excursions of your life! 

 Northern and Eastern Europe

Finland and Sweden, Estonia and Croatia, and many more! These countries are gear up to what they really do best; Christmas markets! Unmatched by their twinkle, shine, hot chocolates and sweet treats, these destinations are sure to dazzle your family! Pick up exclusive, traditional and local gifts for a surprising holiday season.

 India

Fancy escaping more than the country this season? Try flying into a totally different world! India is sure to give you those fascinating stories to tell your close friends and family, as well as incredible photos to stick to your refrigerator door or frame on your desk at work. Begin in the fast-paced, hilariously chaotic, and bustling cities in the north such as Mumbai and New Delhi. Connecting New Delhi is Jaipur and Agra forming the Golden Triangle, creating a stunning and energetic tour of some of India’s best known sights. Take a trip down south where the vibe is a lot more chilled out. Reflect on your vacation by laying down on one of the many picturesque beaches along the coast.    

Israel and Jordan

Spirituality is a powerful and euphoric feeling, matching it with the joyful communities and bustling market streets of Israel and Jordan and you’ll have a vacation you’ll never forget!

Morocco

The deep and colorful scents of magical Morocco will move you down into the narrow market streets, overflowing with vibrant, locally made goods. When the sun dips below the horizon, Morocco shimmers as night lights illuminate plazas, cafes, and restaurants with a warm golden glow. You’ll be speechless at Morocco’s incredible beauty.

 South East Asia and The South Pacific

Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Tahiti, and The Islands of French Polynesia! Big, bustling cities to quiet, calming, towns. South East Asia has a wide variety of destinations catering to both sides of the spectrum. Your family will love trying the vast variety of foods and spices available throughout this region. Scorpion on a stick anyone??

 USA - Southern California, Hawaii, Florida

Fly like a bird this December and migrate south to avoid those harsh winter temperatures. Warm up those feathers on the sunny shores of Florida. Get an island vibe without leaving the USA by heading over to Hawaii. Take back breath-taking photos with you from a tropical paradise Christmas. There’s almost limitless choices for you to enjoy, from snorkeling to taking a cruise around Kealakekua Bay and other scenic wonders , to touring the rain forests of Hana and the eye-opening sea cliffs of Maui via Maverick Helicopters. Outdoor enthusiasts can opt for a whale-watching kayak tour while those seeking a restful spa vacation can find the perfect retreat. Getting a golden tan this season is totally possible! Explore your backyard parts of the USA for a straightforward but relaxing vacation! Leave your heavy coats in the wardrobe this December! 

 BONUS - UNESCO sites?!?!

We’ve Got ‘em! Are you are eager to get your world heritage tour started?. Contact us now for a free travel planning consultation and we can begin to map out your bucket list!

Click here now to book your adventure with Curated Global Travel!

[invitationbyrsquared]

Florida LGBTQ destination wedding sites we love!

Couples love Florida weddings. Especially our LGBTQ destination wedding couples!

Easy to reach, balmy and laid-back, it’s a slice of paradise right in your backyard. What’s not so well known is the diversity of its many LGBTQ destination wedding-ready properties, from quaint inns to historic hotels to sprawling beach resorts.

Whatever your dream wedding is going to look like, Florida has the LGBTQ destination wedding venue you’re seeking.

Here are our top Florida LGBTQ destination wedding venue picks.

Alys Beach – South Walton County – Mazes of shell-stone paths and rows of whitewashed villas hug a private sugar-sand beach on the eastern end of Highway 30A. Hold the rehearsal dinner at Caliza, where guests will feel like they’ve teleported to an intimate Moroccan Kasbah with an elliptical pool, a Moorish tower and billowing curtains.

With sweeping views of both the Gulf and the community’s 20-acre nature preserve, the lawn of Kelly Green is
a favored site for outdoor LGBTQ destination wedding events (seats 250).

Casa Monica – St. Augustine – Old-world charm pervades this circa-1888 landmark in America’s oldest city, and is perfect for a LGBTQ destination wedding.

Marry in a tropical, fountain-filled garden, then hold a fantasy-themed reception (think Gypsies or Pirates of the Caribbean – to offbeat LGBTQ destination wedding events recently held at this venue) in one of the ballrooms. Make your exit in the property’s getaway car — a vintage Model A Ford.

Celebration Hall – Santa Rosa Beach – If you want a blank slate on which to paint your perfect LGBTQ destination wedding picture, Celebration Hall, with its vaulted ceilings, wrought-iron chandeliers and room for 300 guests, is a classic canvas.

Surrounding gardens have ample space for a reception tent; or hold cocktail hour on the lawn while the staff transforms the hall from ceremony site to party place. If you’ve got your heart set on a beach wedding, the hall is just a few minutes from the shore and only 50 feet from 30A Suites, a boutique condo hotel, so no one will have to drive after your bash.

Ancient Spanish Monastery – North Miami Beach – The directions say Miami Gardens Drive in North Miami Beach, but the old street signs call it NE 183rd Street. And NE 185th Street. And NE 186th Street.

Maybe they don’t want you to discover this former abbey, hidden amid Spanish oaks dangling moss as long as a cathedral veil. The 870-year-old building, moved stone by stone from northern Spain, is remarkably versatile.

Opt for the intimate French Altar if the guest list for your LGBTQ destination wedding is under 10, or stretch your legs in the Gothic, 80-seat Monastery Chapel. Twenty acres of gardens make a breathtaking backdrop for any wedding album.

The Don CeSar – St. Pete Beach – Opened in 1928, the 277-room Pink Lady was once the stomping grounds of author F. Scott Fitzgerald, baseball star Lou Gehrig and infamous mobster Al Capone.

In addition to its prime Gulf Coast beach location, the Don also boasts three restaurants, a pool with an underwater sound system, a host of specialty shops and an 11,000-square-foot spa.

Most LGBTQ destination wedding affairs take place in the sand or on the iconic Courtyard staircase, while receptions occur in indoor-outdoor ballrooms or covered beachside pavilions.

The Gasparilla Inn & Club – Boca Grande – This Old Florida resort, which dates to 1913, features 62 rooms and suites with Tempur-Pedic beds and soft Southern decor, while 17 individual cottages house private parlors, screened porches and kitchenettes. Pets are welcome here too.

LGBTQ destination wedding sites include the Inn’s Beach Club, the Golf Course Gazebo (seats 100), the banyan tree shading the fifth hole of the golf course, and the Inn’s spacious living room (buyouts only; seats 300). An outdoor reception, with seated dinners available poolside or on the Croquet Lawn overlooking the bayou, is a must here.

Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum – Key West – A circa-1849 Old Town estate where Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote for almost a decade now welcomes tour groups and LGBTQ destination wedding affairs — and shelters about 50 six-toed cats, all named after famous people (continuing a tradition that Hemingway himself started).

Surrounded by a tall brick wall and a canopy of trees, its garden is a natural for destination weddings.

Ocean Key Resort & Spa – Key West – Tucked at the tip of Duval Street within walking distance to the evening Sunset Celebrations at Mallory Square, this 100-room property is right in the middle of the action. But holed up in a private cabana by the sexy waterfront pool, you’d never know it.

Hold your LGBTQ destination wedding on the waterfront on the Ocean Terrace, then enjoy a private cocktail party and a reception dinner at Sunset Pier (seats 200). Catering is available via onsite Hot Tin Roof restaurant (seats up to 60), with options like ceviche and Florida spiny lobster.

Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort – Amelia Island – Choose the view for your LGBTQ destination wedding — golf course, freshwater marsh or ocean — at this 404-room stunner, fresh from a significant face-lift.

The Plantation offers a glimpse into the more natural side of Florida.  Think lakes and marshes for fishing, kayaking or paddle boarding, and even a nature center for the kids. Welcome guests with a beach bonfire; then hold your LGBTQ destination wedding event in the chapel, on the sand or in the rustic Walker’s Landing event building outfitted with a fieldstone fireplace.

Ponte Vedra Inn & Club – Ponte Vedra Beach – This oceanfront resort still feels like an inn, with 250 individually themed rooms located in 10 low-rise buildings.

Events here, from LGBTQ destination wedding ceremonies to beach-buffet receptions, center on the sand. The Inn’s rooftop terrace and the Surf Club’s beachfront patio are also popular party spots.

Renaissance Vinoy Resort & Golf Club – St. Petersburg – The Mediterranean Revival architecture of this 1920s-era hotel landed it on the National Register of Historic Places. For intimate LGBTQ destination wedding affairs, opt for the Tea Garden, or go big with a 450-person bash in the grand ballroom, where former Florida governor Charlie Crist celebrated his nuptials.

Before we go any further, We HAVE to talk about these two Florida LGBTQ destination wedding gems:  Captiva and Sanibel Islands.

As the name implies, Captiva Island is indeed captivating. Few visitors can resist the lush tropical scenery, where summer breezes rustle the gently swaying palm trees, and the crystal-clear water laps against soft, silky sands!

The island is a peaceful haven, with plenty of wildlife and nature to enjoy, while also offering a good social scene, with restaurants, cafes and beachside bars.

This romantic destination makes the perfect location for a Florida beach LGBTQ destination wedding.

Exchange your vows whilst directly overlooking the vast expanse of the ocean, and afterwards, enjoy all the luxury and laid-back indulgence that only a tropical island can offer.

Captiva is famous for its spectacular sunrises and sunsets, which are impressively dramatic over the vast expanse of the ocean. It is also renowned for the beautiful, brightly colored shells that wash up daily on the beaches, and the textural quality that they bring to the coastal scenery makes Captiva truly special.

Unlike other beaches in the region, Captiva is more for couples looking to experience a sense of seclusion and intimacy during their LGBTQ destination wedding and honeymoon. The beaches provide tranquility and romantic solitude, though there are still water sports activities for those who want to get active whilst away.

South Seas Island Resort – Captiva Island – Occupying 330 acres on the northern reaches of Captiva Island, this resort village feels more remote than it actually is. And because it’s private to its guests, you don’t have to worry about LGBTQ destination wedding crashers.

For the ultimate in privacy, opt for the Sunset Cove beach area on the Gulf.

Sanibel Island is the very definition of exotic island paradise. Gleaming white sands, tall coconut palms and clear, sparkling water make it an ideal location for those searching for a romantic Florida beach LGBTQ destination wedding.

There are plenty of other great things to do and see on the island to keep you entertained, long after the ceremony has finished.

If you’ve ever dreamed of saying ‘I do’ whilst surrounded by lush and exotic scenery, with the sound of the waves gently breaking on the shore in front of you, then Sanibel Island is the ultimate LGBTQ destination wedding location.

In addition to having some of the finest coasts in the country, and like Captiva Island, Sanibel’s beaches are also famous for their remarkable shells. The beautiful, varied texture that this gives the beaches makes the atmosphere even more magical.

The 22 miles of sand that surround the island ensure that couples can find plenty of secluded space to relax and enjoy the start of your life together as newlyweds.

There is more to Sanibel than just beaches, of course. The interior of the island has a beautiful nature reserve and wildlife refuge, which provides the perfect location for exploration under the balmy summer sun, and there are plenty of activities to enjoy after your wedding, including various water sports, such as fishing and snorkeling.

Casa Ybel Resort – Sanibel Island – This resort spans 23 acres along the Gulf of Mexico and features several Sanibel Island LGBTQ destination wedding locations to choose from for your ceremony.

Whether you envision reciting your vows on our white sand beach, saying “I Do” in a romantic lakeside gazebo or exchanging rings on the resort’s Gulf-front lawn, Casa Ybel Resort is the perfect LGBTQ destination wedding venue on Sanibel Island.

The Ringling – Sarasota – Conjure Gatsby at the 1920s-era estate of circus barons John and Mable Ringling. Rich in architecture and history, the facility’s U-shaped Museum of Art is stunning.

Larger LGBTQ destination wedding groups have ample space to celebrate in its courtyard, graced with replicas of ancient Greek, Roman and Baroque statues. Other venues include a rose garden, a banyan grove and the mansion’s bay-front Ca’ d’Zan Terrace, where Ringling himself threw countless parties.

Once you’ve settled on a Florida location and a date for your LGBTQ destination wedding, get in touch!  We’re here to help.  Fran is waiting to chat with you about building an amazing suite of save the date cards, destination wedding invitations, and more.

Be sure to visit our curated collection of images to help keep you motivated and inspired.  You can find that right here.

A Florida LGBTQ destination wedding is about as romantic and idyllic as it gets.  Your dream wedding day is going to magical, enchanting, and altogether memorable.

Simply your Best Day Ever!             

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