#centifolia rose

[parfumery-wiki]

Mitsouko (eau de parfum) Les Légendaires Guerlain Nose: Jacques Guerlain

Mossy woods

Mitsouko... This name that means mystery in Japanese, is also that of the heroine in Claude Farrère's novel, La Bataille. Caught between the oath she has made to her husband, the powerful Admiral Togo, and her secret love for an officer from her country’s enemy camp, Mitsouko nobly struggles against her heart’s desires. Inspired by this woman, Jacques Guerlain created this subtly androgynous, yet wildly feminine chypre. To lend it incredible modernity, the perfumer combined the fruity, velvety spiciness of peach accord with the woody scent of patchouli for the first time. This daring combination with the taste of a forbidden fruit makes Mitsouko a ground-breaking, avant-garde fragrance and the symbol of a strong femininity that dares to reveal its masculine side.     

Key notes: Peach, Jasmine, Centifolia rose, Spices, Patchouli, Vetiver

[ahamiltongarden]

‘DE MEAUX’

[environmentalharmony]

Plant Study: Wild Rose

Wild Rose plant study

Wild Rose, Rosa Species I decided the wild rose was a good plant study pick for February, but I promptly forgot to post my findings here. You can usually find content more quickly on the Environmental Harmony Instagram. Anywhoo! Wild Roses, it turns out, are the BEST. The wild rose is the fragrant, shrubby ancestor of all the roses we know and love. The wild roses are the most fragrant and, I…

[angelitam]

Collection Les Extraits L'Art & La Matière de Guerlain

Une nouvelle collection chez Guerlain avec Les Extraits L’Art & La Matière. Collection Les Extraits L’Art & La Matière de Guerlain Les Extraits Signature, la quintessence du sillage Guerlain. Collection Les Extraits L’Art & La Matière de Guerlain Haute préciosité, haute concentration, Les Extraits Signature mettent en lumière les matières premières de la Guerlinade, la signature olfactive…

[thebotanicalarcade]

n33_w1150 by Biodiversity Heritage Library Via Flickr: The instructive picture book, or, Lessons from the vegetable world Edinburgh :Edmonston & Douglas, 87 Princes Street,1858. biodiversitylibrary.org/page/59644157

[beautyscenario]

Raw by Mane a Pitti Fragranze: la conferenza che mi ha fatto riscoprire la rosa

Raw by Mane a Pitti Fragranze: la conferenza che mi ha fatto riscoprire la rosa

[fancyemmabovary]

Miss Dior body milk, with a light and fresh texture enriched with Centifolia rose oil 🌹

[bebemoon]

look for the name NIMET (requested by anonymous) | ellery "1981" draped gown in beige color, alexandre vauthier faux leather thigh-high boots, alexis bittar molten gold bullet minaudiere in black, cult gaia "noor" eau de parfum (madagascar black pepper, fig, rose pepper, lavender, geranium essence, rose centifolia, haitian vetiver, incense resins), simuero "guinda agua" handmade gold-plated ring w/ white crystal stone

[hny-updates]

It has been announced that there will be a line of Firefly Wedding fragrances! They will be available to purchase on August 19th, 2024!

Informational Site Shop Link

Hotaru no Yomeiri perfume:

Top note: Grape, Pepper, Blackcurrant.

Middle note: Centifolia Rose, Geranium, Davana.

Last note: Vetiver, Patchouli, White Musk.

Shinpei perfume:

Top note: Aloes Wood/Agarwood, Cinnamon, Carrot.

Middle note: Ylang Ylang, Rose, Centifolia Rose, Jasmine.

Last note: White Musk, Sandalwood, Cedar Wood

Hotaru no Yomeiri diffuser:

Top note: Black Pepper, Violets, Freesias, Blueberry.

Middle note: Peony, Rose, Lily of the Valley, Lilac, Jasmine.

Last note: Sandalwood, Patchouli, White Musk, Cedar.

(Thank you @psyphers for the translations!)

Clear File Folders

[cleolinda]

This does not spark Joy (Dior, 2018 & 2019)

PREVIOUSLY ON: Jean Patou's Joy (1930) was voted the Scent of the Century, but for some mysterious reason, it's not manufactured anymore.

Dior fucking killed Joy.

I won't bury the lede here at all. It was Dior. And I love a good Dior, don't get me wrong. But in August 2018, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (which owns every damn thing, including Sephora and half the brands in it) bought the Jean Patou company (which had already changed hands twice). More importantly, they bought the name "Joy." And, somehow, their subsidiary Parfums Christian Dior had their own Joy, complete with Jennifer Lawrence ad campaign, ready to release two weeks later.

For a while, Designer Parfums was at least allowed to manufacture and sell Jean Patou's Joy in France. But now, according to the Patou website, the company's fragrances "are no longer in production." When "authorized outlets" run out, they're out. Because apparently, it was that important for Dior to keep anyone else from using the name "Joy."

So what did they replace the Scent of the Century with?

I had heard that Joy by Dior Intense was a huge improvement on the initial Joy by Dior (which infuriated fragrance aficionados itself by existing, clearly), and I'm glad I tried it first, because if I had started with the original ("original") Dior, I would have punched a wall. But let's start with that: I kept trying Dior Joy #1 over and over because I couldn't remember what it smelled like. It is literally, in the literal sense of literally, forgettable. I tried it one more time today in order to write this paragraph, and: it's soapy white musk. Which upset me initially, I remember now, because I'm just really not a fan of soapy/laundry white musk, but that's on me; I've seen user reviews that do really like Joy by Dior. On me, it's just bubblebath froth, eventually a sweet citrus that peeks up from under it, and a drydown that adds some vanilla to that. That's joyous, I guess?

What I will say is, unlike the other perfume that made me think of bubble baths, it didn't give me a panic attack, so it's got one up on Chanel. But it's just... was this necessary? Did we not have enough soapy white citrus-vanilla musks in the world? At the time, I was just asking myself this rhetorically, but then I kept reading up on the Dior Joy(s). As Victoria at Bois de Jasmin points out, the actual fragrance is a copy of yet another perfume:

The result is that Dior Joy is Allure Lite. The rose and jasmine are folded into a sandalwood accord reminiscent of Chanel’s fragrance. From the top notes to the drydown, Joy follows the course of Allure, but in a softer, more transparent interpretation. The mandarin peel dusted with sugar, the rose blended with the lemony jasmine, a touch of apricot and orange blossom that melt into the sandalwood and custard-like vanilla. Even the same contrast between the sweet citrus and creamy woods is maintained.

Mark Behnke at Colognoisseur:

[Dior perfumer François Demachy] chose to create a mash-up of two huge best-sellers. The citrus opening is straight out of Chanel Allure and the floral heart is Dior J'Adore. In other words, it is just a re-tread.

DIOR! WHAT ARE YOU FUCKING DOING!

I won't say that Joy Intense (Dior #2) is more like Jean Patou's, but at least it has less of a soapy musk opening. Let's compare the notes:

Joy by Dior (2018): White musk, Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, mandarin orange, patchouli, bergamot, cedar, sandalwood.

Joy by Dior Intense (2019): Neroli, bergamot, Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose, vanilla, patchouli, musk, sandalwood.

[Note: Grasse, "the perfume capital of the world," is a region in France famous for its role in the history of French perfume; it is especially known for jasmine and roses. "Grasse rose," "May rose," and "Rose de Mai" all refer to Rosa x centifolia. "Grasse jasmine" is Jasminum grandiflorum, as opposed to, say, the licorice-friendly jasmine sambac.]

Further info from dior.com:

Get the absolute fuck out of here with this BOTTLE and this LOGO, what are you even doing. I did not even know a perfume could eat crackers

Joy by Dior, per the official website:

JOY by Dior Eau de Parfum is a bright smile, and a pure concentration of joy in a bottle. A juicy, vibrant top note gives way to an enveloping white heart of flowers and musks, just like a soft caress.

Again, I hated Dior's first Joy when I first put it on, but that's my own bias. It was just sheer disappointment that they centered this on synthetic white musk—you vaulted the Scent of the Century for this?

The "Intense" version:

Oh well if there’s a star on the bottom I guess I’m not mad anymore??

JOY by Dior Eau de Parfum Intense is a new olfactory burst, a scent of joy wherein flowers celebrate and explode in all their faceted beauty. The dazzling light of the juicy Citrus blends with the colorful shine of Rose and Grasse Jasmine, and is heightened by an enveloping woody echo of Sandalwood tinged with Vanilla. The fragrance results in a floral firework.

Fuck the actual fuck outta here. "Firework" my ass. It's fine, I guess. It smells like vanilla lemonade and some jasmine on me, with a pleasant lingering drydown. Not just the smell of lemonade, but sort of the feeling of happiness you get when drinking a sugary glass of it on a hot summer day. Don't ever say I don't try to be fair. And it's 1000% better without the white musk. I honestly wouldn't mind wearing this under a different name, but it's just so adequate. I put on Jean Patou's Joy, even a diminished Joy, and it was a revelation. I put on the Dior, even the "good" version, and it smells like copying what the popular girls wear in hopes that they’ll like you. Thank God they didn't stuff some Ambroxan in there while they were at it. The only reason Dior didn't dupe some trendy note from Baccarat Rouge 540 is because Francis Kurkdjian didn't work for them yet. What the fuck are you people doing.

Back to Colognoisseur:

[It] is puzzling why Dior would make the decision to produce a new perfume with the same name of a masterpiece. The cynic in me says because they’ve unleashed their market research staff and found out most consumers have no idea there is a previous classic perfume called Joy. [...] Joy by Dior is a good perfume put together via the perfume assembly line of focus groups and market research; as cynical as it gets in other words.

This is absolutely my take as well. I wore Jean Patou on one hand and Dior's Joy Intense on the other and compared how they unfolded in real time, and what struck me most at that point was how gourmand-adjacent the Dior is. Not entirely so, but the vanilla lemonade I get is far more in line with the cupcake and burnt sugar notes (WHICH I LIKE!) that fragrance brands have put in everything since Mugler’s Angel, rather than just let a floral be good—superlative—at being a floral. But the marketing department says that the Costliest Perfume in the World isn’t on trend in the 21st century; we can charge plenty for something simpler, more predictable, more pandering.

My other take is that Dior's Joy perfumes are formulated to inevitably be cheaper than Jean Patou's Joy, even what Joy was at the end of the company's life. I have smelled at least a Platonic shadow of the Costliest Perfume in the World, and (I don't care how much Grasse jasmine Dior claims is in theirs) this ain't it. I don't blame François Demachy; he was given a brief and he did his job. The man made not one but two versions of Hypnotic Poison. He has done more interesting things than this. Dior’s Joy has "cash grab" written all over it and it's not even bad. It's just WHY. Why would you DO THIS. I am going to stay mad and die mad about this. Jesus Christ. You can't even, like, gently reformulate the Jean Patou, put out the Demachy versions as flanker fragrances, and market them all? You have four kinds of Poison RIGHT NOW and you can’t figure this out?

And I wore these three perfumes for three weeks, I want you to know that. I alternated them day by day, sometimes wearing two at a time to compare. I gave them all many, many chances. And besides the fact that I personally don't like white musk very much, the two Dior Joys are not bad. They're not! They're just accessories to a minor act of cultural vandalism, is all. Imagine taking Botticelli's The Birth of Venus and saying, we're going to throw this out so we can have a photographer recreate it with Jennifer Lawrence. Everyone's wearing Dior Spring/Summer 2023 designs (including Venus). It actually looks pretty cool, I guess. Great, so we don't need the Botticelli anymore? When does the trash get picked up, Tuesday?

Even Disney doesn't vault its animated movies anymore after it remakes them as live action. Maybe I can scrape up enough couch change to buy a bottle of Real Actual Joy and some DVDs before anyone else gets some big ideas.

Perfume discussion masterpost

[magneticfemme]

The white bouquet - A white floral scents selection.

These fragrances are renowned for their clean, fresh floral notes and are perfect for those who appreciate light, elegant scents.

_________________

no 1 : Dyptique, Fleur de peau - Eau de parfum (165€ for 75ml). With Notes of Musk, Iris, Ambrette Seeds.

link : https://www.diptyqueparis.com/fr_fr/p/fleur-de-peau-75ml-1.html

no 2 : By Redo, Blanche - Eau de parfum (from 165€ for 50ml). With notes of Aldehydes, Rose Centifolia, Peony, Violet,  Musks, Sandalwood.

link : https://www.byredo.com/eu_fr/blanche-eau-de-parfum-50ml

__________________

_________________

no 3 : Maison Martin Margiela, Replica Lazy Sunday Morning - Eau de Toilette (from 74€ for 30ml). With notes of Pear, Lily of the Valley, Aldehydes, Patchouli from Indonesia, White Musk, Ambrette, Iris, Absolu de Rose, Orange Blossom.

sephora link : https://www.sephora.fr/p/replica-lazy-sunday-morning-536397.html

MM link : https://www.maisonmargiela.com/fr-fr/eau-de-toilette-replica-lazy-sunday-morning-S33YX0018S10932001.html

no 4 : For Her Pure Musc, Narcisso Rodriguez - Eau de Parfum (from 89€ for 30ml). White flowers accord, musk, cashmeran.

sephora link : https://www.sephora.fr/p/for-her-pure-musc---eau-de-parfum-P3607042.html

N Rodriguez link : https://www.narcisorodriguezparfums.com/fr/narciso-rodriguez-for-her-pure-musc/for-her-PURE-MUSC.html

no 5 : Elizabeth Arden, White Tea Wild Rose – Eau de Toilette (from 18€ for 30ml on amazon.com). With notes of White Tea, Pear Tree Blossom, Red Currant, Palmarosa, Bulgarian Rose and Amber.

amazon link : https://amzn.to/3VY2mT8 (affiliate)

E. Harden link : https://www.elizabetharden.fr/products/elizabeth-arden-white-tea-wild-rose-eau-de-toilette-spray?variant=40618087153719

_________________

_________________

no 6 : Clean Classique, Cool Cotton - Eau de parfum (69,99€ for 60ml on amazon.com). With notes of bergamot, apple, lemon peel, mimosa, mint, cotton flower, musk, peach, amber, citrus.

Amazon link : https://amzn.to/3RM4kUd (affiliate)

no 7 : Versace, Bright Crystal - Eau de Toilette (78,29€ for 90ml on amazon.com). With Notes of Pomegranate, Yuzu, iced accord, Lotus, magnolia, peony, musk, mahogany wood.

Amazon link : https://amzn.to/4ccOU3A (affiliate)

no 8 : Bvlgari, OMNIA CRYSTALLINE - Eau de Toilette (99€ for 40ml on amazon.com). With Notes of Bamboo, Lotus Flower, Nashi and Balsa Wood.

Amazon link : https://amzn.to/3VYfNCz (affiliate)

no 9 : Jo Malone, Cologne White Jasmine & Mint - Eau de Cologne (140€ for 100ml). With notes of Spearmint, Jasmine, Mate leaves.

link : https://www.jomalone.fr/product/25946/9907/colognes/cologne-white-jasmine-mint?size=100ml&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-O6zBhASEiwAOHeGxS0Fxy5XoqhV75_K9dq-wDD0zRg62HFY1mjUPlOxxnYzeYVWgmRi6xoCcJEQAvD_BwE

_________________

no 10 : Cacharel, Noa - Eau de Parfum (from 69€ for 50ml). With notes of White musk, Peony, Kinkan.

link : https://amzn.to/45JxJEc

[ahamiltongarden]

THIRTEEN KINDS OF OLD ROSES

[itsloriel]

“Fantin-Latour” a Centifolia rose

Types of Roses

[odoroussavourssweet]

Tauerville Rose Flash

Nose: Andy Tauer

notes: rose, amber, woody notes

Ok, Rose Flash might just be my favorite rose scent ever. It’s slightly honeyed, with both pink petals and green leaves, rich and dense like a tapestry or illuminated manuscript.

Definitely the Rosa centifolia May rose type of scent, like an old-fashioned, loose-petaled garden rose, rather than the redder, fruitier Rosa damascena type that shows up in “dark” or “dramatic” rose perfumes.

But unlike most “garden” rose scents, Rose Flash isn’t cold or tinny; it’s warm and weighty, and comes in a full spectrum of color from pink to gold to green. It’s like the Persian gardens from which we got the word “paradise.”

Over time, the rose gets a bit boozy, sweeter and richer than before.

Rose, to me, is usually a tender or poignant scent; rose-dominated perfumes can end up a bit too “sad” to really suit me, even if I can recognize them as lovely in principle. Rose Flash isn’t like that. Something about the Tauer amber base keeps it feeling grounded, satisfying, and cheerful.

[rosinaperfumery]

Truly a connecting link between the Orient and the West, it invites us to the convergence of two shores. A seductive fragrance, Oud Rose starts with the powerful and spicy notes of saffron.  The centifolia rose intensifies this veritable call to sensuality and melts into the mysterious wake of oud under the spell of patchouli. This could not be a more prestigious perfume.

Olfactory Notes

Top: Saffron, davana, incense

Heart: Centifolia rose, freesia

Base: Agarwood, black leather, patchouli

#oudrose#lessoeursdenoe#rosinaperfumery

[fancyemmabovary]

The new Miss Dior soap, infused with Centifolia rose water