ooc: eve goes to romania pt.2: 2022!
i reckon we should jump right into this bc hoo wee did i ramble here. i need to write a travel log someday and publish it. that’d be fun. anyway:
let’sa go!
to preface, let me explain that i absolutely had an ulterior motive when travelling out to bucharest this time around. it was first time i travelled since the pandemic; granted, they didn’t need proof of vaccination or a covid test done prior to arrival, but i was worried that i had somehow forgotten how to go about airports and independent movement abroad. my worries weren’t justified, thankfully :)
it was my first time travelling alone. this was extremely important, as i had always planned to make my next trip to bucharest with someone else. that didn’t happen, and i had to do this now for myself. this would change my plans for the future. i had to see if i could live in bucharest, if i really, really wanted to. believe me, i was challenged on this decision a lot lol. every romanian i spoke to about this seemed very confused.
and they were lovely! my spoken romanian has absolutely decayed since my MA studies (and now i have my motivation to revise it!!) but those i spoke to were eager to humour me/let me practice. if i ever stumbled, or if they spoke too quickly (90% of the time this was the case), i knew how to ask if they spoke english. 100% of the time, the answer was yes, but if i then wanted to reply in romanian, they would continue to support me!
capital cities are never the best way to see a true reflection of a country and it’s people; i know i’d never say that londoners are a reflection of those living in manchester or brighton, for example. it’s a very different beast. thankfully, i work in london, so i know what to contend with. there’s a constant rushing, and not just on the roads. and bucharest’s roads are fast. granted, because their main roads are 3, sometimes 4 lanes wide (perfect for national parades!), the speed limit can afford to be higher. i don’t think my uber driver to the airport on my final day slowed down from 70mph, ever! he earnt that tip fair and square. nice work, teodor.
my apartment was in a communist block on one of bucharest’s busier streets, right at the top of sector five; a stone’s throw from cismigiu park in one direction, and downtown in the other. my airbnb host (another sweetheart, who gave me so many food recommendations) had warned me about the noise, but i can’t sleep in too quiet a room. i found the noise comforting. yes, even the 4am ambulance siren. i learnt that the crows of bucharest all roost in cismigiu park, as well! a cloud of black wings and cawing descended on the park at dusk, and left again at dawn, without fail.
september is still very warm in bucharest, and i foolishly packed for a british autumn. the metro stations especially were VERY warm, and i was pleasantly surprised at how spacious the stations and trains were. the map is extremely easy to follow (not the spaghetti mess that is the london underground), and there’s signs constantly telling you where to go/what platforms to go to for your stop/etc. london should take notes here.
speaking of spaghetti, i did eat a lot of pasta during my stay. i already knew that romanians are big fans of italian food and coffee, and they do it very well! my favourite restaurant in the city served the best damn calzone i’ve ever eaten; with truffle salsa and this lovely, sweet marinara sauce. the romanian gin was refreshing, and easy on the palette. otherwise, i tried to have a shot of palinca with every dinner... and had to call it quits halfway through my trip lol. i can’t keep up with the locals. i fought hard to find my favourite romanian beer in bucharest; silva blonda. pale ales are more popular in transylvania, apparently.
i drank a lot of lemonade during my stay as well; with honey and mint; which helped with the cold i caught on the flight over. romanian lemonade just hits different.
i saw plenty of gentlemen’s clubs (yes, they really were ‘men only’. i was mad.) and plenty of bars offered hookah. i didn’t try this time, as i was advised to try it with a group for my first try, but it did look fun! every big billboard ad was for a gambling site of some sort, and watching international football on tv also saw it littered with betting ads. all registered, mind you, and they need to make that very clear. small businesses have to do the same, and display certificates in their windows, i noticed. this included the ‘box shops’ stationed on busy streets and corners; many being newstands and florists. there’s a lot of florists, and young women walking around with bouquets. i’m sure you could’ve guessed that this made me incredibly happy.
i saw some beautiful roses at the botanical gardens, and heard the city stay silent for the church bells and chanting early on a sunday morning. that in itself is incredible, and hearing the services was nothing short of magical. that morning, i met up with a photographer for an airbnb experience and we clicked nearly immediately. a history student at bucharest’s university, an introvert, a cat person. we’re now mutuals on instagram, and have promised to host the other when they next visit our respective capitals.
she was one to suggest i visited romania’s national art gallery (and prioritise that wing of the gallery over the european one) and i’m delighted that i did. she also told me to prioritise carturesti carusel; romania’s most famous bookshop, and one of the most beautiful in the world. i bought a couple of translated books; “nostalgia” by mircea cartarescu, and an anthology of poems by nichita stanescu!
of course, i wasn’t just in bucharest, and did spend a couple of days in brasov; getting there by train from gara de nord; bucharest’s main train station. it was painless, and i wasn’t subjected to any significant delays... although i did see one delay of two hours for a train due to arrive from vienna.
brasov looks incredibly different; a city surrounding a mountain with beautiful, colourful buildings. it was the first city i volunteered in, eight years ago, so this visit was more for nostalgia. i hiked to the top of that mountain in the morning (and found out that it was home to 9 rare species of wasp... the hard way), and stood next to the hollywood-styled sign at the top. just like i did 8 years ago.
i chatted to an american at dinner the night before (from queens, and the son of romanian immigrants, now visiting grandparents still in ro) and became fast friends with him as well! we were both eavesdropping on a tour group behind us, quietly judging our respective countrymen, and i invited him to chat once they left. his romanian was a lot better than mine. lol.
asides that, i also (finally) got myself to sinaia to see peles and pelisor castles. both are stunning, of course; something out of a fairytale. complete with the misty mountain setting, as this was the only day i had rain. themes for the architecture, inside and out, come from all over europe; but is especially obvious in the saxon and baroque influences. i had the best goulash for lunch there. the food overall on my trip was pretty great!
this trip left me physically exhausted with all the walking and hiking, i missed pearl terribly after befriending all the stray cats (and there’s a lot!), and i bought a whole bunch of goodies! a lot of milka! a well-known balkan peace offering lol.
for photos and the like, i’m going to plug my insta (wink), and encourage you to watch the story i made for my 2022 visit to ro! i got some banger photos, too, as well as some from the photoshoot i’m yet to drop. i’m pretty sorted for munday now lol.
and... yeah! thank you for reading thank you for dealing with my ooc posting i need to get to work on getting my work visa now. after another week of pto. i’m shattered.
:)
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• Saturday, 29th april, 2023
My fiancé came home for the weekend after being away for a week with work, and we went out for a walk after having a lazy day at home. He suggested that we go to Cismigiu park, that he loves, and there I got to see a row of beautiful blue flowers, which I love, and discovered this new one, named glycine.
We ended up walking for 3 hours and the city was just effervescent with energy of the people that went out as well. One of the main boulevards of the town was closed for cars and people could walk in the street so it was flooded with people eating, sitting at terraces, drinking wine, laughing and talking, some places had djs and they put beautiful music so people started dancing. It was beautiful to witness the happiness of people in the warmth of the beginning of the summer nights. I need to find a way to bottle up this energy for the ugliness of the winter nights. Or maybe I just need to find a way to romanticize even the winter days. 🌨️
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