Striped Cotton Dress, circa 1850s.
"Dress of printed cotton with repeating design of solid yellow vertical stripe and white stripe with purple and red flowers. Off the shoulder neckline, yoke bodice, short sleeves trimmed with two rows of pleats, front of dress gathered at angles from a wide corded waist band, plain back fastened with hooks and eyes, full skirt (bell shaped) gathered at waist and has two hems."
Litchfield Historical Society
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Walter Sanders, Untitled (Crinolines), Life, ca. 1950s
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In the latter half of the 1850s, we truly begin to solidify the shapes and tailoring of the next decade. The cage crinoline was invented in 1856, and that allowed for even a more robust (and flammable) approach to skirt material draping. I've often said it, but it's true: both the panniers of the 18th century and the crinolines and petticoats of the 19th century are simply a way to flaunt wealth as ostentatiously as possible. Why? Because fabric is wealth.
This gown is silk. And not just a single color, but a striped and patterned silk. It took my brain a little while to register what exactly I was looking at (especially the bodice) because the piecing of the pattern almost make it look like there's a blue sheer fabric over it. It's not! Just a whole lot going on.
However, that tailoring is quite clever as it gives the appearance of the bodice having a central floral feature, almost like embroidery, from a distance.
This late 1850s gown is lots of silk, but it's also by the house of Elise. Elise was a tailor for the richest clientele, but also one known for her horrible labor practices (you can read more about that here).
What do you think of this one? I'm a bit on the fence.
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A Crinoline shop, around 1880.
Photographer: Eugéne Atge
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Princess Mary Adelaide of Cambridge, 1864
From Royal Collection
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Debbie Harry wearing (and accompanied by) Zac Posen
At the Met Gala 2021 - 'In America: A Lexicon Of Fashion'.
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Fashion Details.Fashion Plate ca.1865
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Walter Sanders, Untitled (Crinolines), Life, ca. 1950s
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Princess Pauline Elisabeth of Baden
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