désordre | mirror palais collection
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Striped Cotton Dress, circa 1850s.
"Dress of printed cotton with repeating design of solid yellow vertical stripe and white stripe with purple and red flowers. Off the shoulder neckline, yoke bodice, short sleeves trimmed with two rows of pleats, front of dress gathered at angles from a wide corded waist band, plain back fastened with hooks and eyes, full skirt (bell shaped) gathered at waist and has two hems."
Litchfield Historical Society
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Walter Sanders, Untitled (Crinolines), Life, ca. 1950s
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In the latter half of the 1850s, we truly begin to solidify the shapes and tailoring of the next decade. The cage crinoline was invented in 1856, and that allowed for even a more robust (and flammable) approach to skirt material draping. I've often said it, but it's true: both the panniers of the 18th century and the crinolines and petticoats of the 19th century are simply a way to flaunt wealth as ostentatiously as possible. Why? Because fabric is wealth.
This gown is silk. And not just a single color, but a striped and patterned silk. It took my brain a little while to register what exactly I was looking at (especially the bodice) because the piecing of the pattern almost make it look like there's a blue sheer fabric over it. It's not! Just a whole lot going on.
However, that tailoring is quite clever as it gives the appearance of the bodice having a central floral feature, almost like embroidery, from a distance.
This late 1850s gown is lots of silk, but it's also by the house of Elise. Elise was a tailor for the richest clientele, but also one known for her horrible labor practices (you can read more about that here).
What do you think of this one? I'm a bit on the fence.
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Red Wool Cage Crinoline, 1860-1865, British.
Victoria and Albert Museum.
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Next combo: Wicker Corsets & Crinolines
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Woman by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (location ?). From jeannepompadour.tumblr.com-image-153140436021 1648X2057.
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Undertaker x Claudia
A cute fan art for my favorite Black Butler character and his (unconfirmed) lover, Claudia Phantomhive. The lyrics are taken from the song "Say Say Say" by Michael Jackson and Paul McCartney. I'm still working on drawing faces from the side.
Please check my Black Butler playlist on YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWtL3kp0JTNAFCpv5qd5tqd75gyG7gP2N
Please visit me on DeviantArt, Instagram and Pinterest! I have the same name as here - Alexis Yoko (Alexander).
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This is an example of a fashionable summer day dress of the late 1850s. Typical of the period are the full ‘pagoda’ sleeves and the bodice gathered from the shoulders into the lower front waist. Tiered skirts were popular in the 1850s. The fabric was printed with a decorative border expressly for use as tiers of a dress. It was known by the French term à disposition’.
1858-1860
UK
Printed cotton, trimmed with whitework embroidery, hand-sewn
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La mode illustree ca.1861 , with pockets!
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Walter Sanders, Untitled (Crinolines), Life, ca. 1950s
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