#i love derek menswear guy

[stayatsam]

i havnet drawn a full body in a long time and im going a little crazy

[dwcmarshalarts]

XEVER IN A SUIT XEVER IN A SUIT AWOOOOOOOGAAAAAAA

one thing I’ve just GOT to ask is where you get all these magnificent ideas from, from world building rules & guidelines to the immaculate clothing

once again I’ve been trying to get into myself and love to hear input from people because I find myself and my understanding of writing being vastly improved with everyone one of your tidbits

from not focusing on assholish symptoms but instead examining where it comes from first, to making worldbuilding wrap around the plot rather than cage it, and the gorgeous pieces you do on fashion

in that aspects, thanks marshal c: would love to hear what you have to say because I’ve found you’ve generally got your head screwed on and the advice you give happens to resonate and really speak to me a lot more than other sources I try listening to

Magician never reveals his secrets ;3

But no, in all honesty, even if I wanted to go over everything of I've learned over the years, I'm not sure it would be possible.

I do think in most ways, the way someone approaches a story/storycrafting is largely informed by a person's personal life, and the unique set of circumstances that build them, change and affect their way of perceiving things.

I can't tell you all of what I've learned, or even how, but I can say *broadly* is that if you're looking to replicate reality in writing- just like with drawing- it's more about seeing and observing than coming up with something out of nowhere. You should look around you and your world and see things that might seem mundane as worth building around, pick up on small things, subtle things, just as much if not more than the big "structural" things.

As for specifically on clothes though- I can tell you that a lot of my thoughts on suits are informed bybirdsite men's fashion expert dieworkwear, otherwise known as Derek Guy. He can more eloquently go over the history, form and function of menswear than I can haha.

[charlotteswebbbbb]

What's the vibe? #65

What's going on man??? A bit of a menswear download.

Bottega x ASAP x Carrie Mae Weems recreating her most popular works for Father's Day?

So much of consuming is about beauty mostly because of beauty products are repeat purchases but what do men really want? Just a taster of insight into what I'm thinking

Main takeaways from above:

Suiting is subversive, looking sharp and less casual is subversive! But do it in a way that you don't attract attention from Derek Guy.

Accessories are great! Find the one for you like Dev Hynes loves his hats :)

Menswear fashion week best ofs:

Prada, Gucci was interesting, Martine Rose, Magliano, Marine Serre was interesting for diff reasons (sustainability).

Valentino had WAYYYY too many looks. Especially for a Resort collection. 171?? Sustainable pour whom???

Martine Rose asked "Where do we find beauty? For Martine Rose: the answer is in the cracks and crevices of culture: the unusual, the unseen, the unpredictable."

So much of the shows were about connecting and coming together - clothes to help you get close. Intimacy or just expressions of love. Maybe that's why weddings are so popular right now - everyone believes in it more than they believe in themselves.

JW Anderson talks about something none of us get enough of: SLEEP with his new collection.

From Prada? Contemporary closeness. "Closeness reflects emotion - the human urge for proximity, to share space and commune. To be closer also shifts perception. Viewed from afar, pieces can pretend to be other - details may seem simplistic, naïve, but up-close, physically, perceptions transform."

Marine Serre's show was titled" “Sempre Legati” show (where), Serre’s final eight looks that spanned both tailoring and couture dressing, appeared in white to spread a message of peace and love."

One of my favourite things about smaller brands is that they include older women in their casting and shows which shows that maybe a small slice of their buyers are older women who want to dress in more powerful ways or acknowledging that women are menswear buyers where the bigger players reject that. Maybe because womenswear is big money and they can't afford to fracture their customer base apart each season.

So much of Prada reminded me of Robin Hood, this sort of medieval shoe which is made from leather. This exit from the house into clothes less aggressive, smoother and flatter onto the body...

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Uniform > everyone having the same look > community > similar morals/ideals?

We're still wondering how to make sustainability sexy as another season goes by. Maybe for menswear the most sustainable thing is finding your style or being comfortable in your shape.

Speaking of...Paul Mescal and shorts.

The Euros are on - next England game is Thursday versus Denmark then next Tuesday up against Slovenia.

Unfortch we've missed the uni shows here in London so we'll have to catch up somehow next week.

[stetervault]

Has there been a "Stiles rescues Peter" rec list yet? I'm looking for anything from monster of the week to Eichen House to the Wild Hunt. The idea that I've already read them all is too terrible to contemplate. (Thanks for running an amazing blog!

Not specifically as far as I can remember. But it’s always a genre I can get behind :) Here are some I think fit that category, either as the whole fic or part of it. And thanks for following my blog!

A Moment, Then Silence by Therapeutic_Steter

anonymous asked: Stiles takes care of a heavy injured Peter, who has permanent damage since then. The pack doesn’t care, but Derek and Cora realise that he is family.

Scale Tales by Therapeutic_Steter

Connected drabbles revolving around Dragon!Stiles and his werewolf Mate, Peter.

Rhythm of the War Drums by HyperLittleNori (Shiguresan) (this one’s more them taking care of each other and saving each other)

The foreboding song of the drums rumbled through the stands above, made his heart, his blood pound with their increasing rhythm. He’d seen this so many times now, heard the sickening, morbid excitement of the rabble. He readied himself for the carnage, but even nearly a year after he’d first stood in this spot, it still filled him with dread.

As always, he watched the sandy arena through the barred steel gates. They vibrated with the movement, with the almost deafening sounds of the crowd and the drums. A sea of guards stood at his back, but they were not there for him…

Hooverville by twothumbsandnostakeincanon (somanyofthekids)

Town to town, train to train, tent to tent.

By 1932, the dust had begun to blow and the jobs were gone.

Anonymity was a byproduct of looking for work, which made it both necessary and convenient.

Stiles had enough secrets of his own to know to look the other way when he saw something that shouldn’t be possible.

The ghost of a tail giving enough balance to disembark a moving train.

Near silent Latin whispered on the edge of a tent encampment.

A flash of burning eyes.

He had more than enough to worry about without adding the oddities of others, and besides- having unusually sharp teeth certainly didn’t make a man worse than the ones running from the wife and kids they couldn’t feed.

So Stiles kept his observations to himself. He kept his everything to himself.

Until he met a man. One with eyes so blue they seemed to glow- and then they did.

Stiles tried to look away, but for the first time he was stopped.

“Don’t be like that sweetheart. Aren’t you curious?”

If I Could Kiss You Again by Triangulum

“Summer plans?” Peter asks, eyes on where Isaac is now trying to inch along the ceiling beam toward the wall where he can slide down a pipe.

“Leaving for Stanford in September. Saving the world and working in between now and then,” Stiles says. “Why, gonna miss me?”

“Considering I’ll be left alone with Derek? Yes,” Peter says.

“You’ll have Cora,” Stiles says. “And Isaac will be here to make up a few high school credits.”

There’s a shriek and a thud as Isaac loses his grip, falling on top of Erica and Boyd, sending them all to the ground in a heap.

“Yes,” Peter says flatly. “Thank god for that.”

OR

Five times Stiles kisses Peter and one time Peter kisses him.

Stravinsky by rightsidethru

Duke Orsino:If music be the food of love, play on,Give me excess of it; that surfeiting,The appetite may sicken, and so die.

Twelfth Night; Act 1, scene 1, 1–3

Wolf Within by wynnebat

Instead of convincing Scott to regain his humanity by killing the Alpha, Derek offers another possible solution.

Fashion. Police. by Bunnywest

In which Stiles is a cop with an interest in menswear, Peter’s the owner of a menswear store with a definite interest in Stiles, and why is there always some maniac running around throwing tins of red paint and making death threats?

Fashion, baby.

Under the Songbird’s Wing by mia6363

Captivity easily destroys the will of escape. It can break the fiercest of animal. It can strip the most regal man and woman down to nothing but animal needs.

Captivity can, if met with unwavering determination, shape a person into something unimaginable.

Stiles is sixteen when he’s captured. Stiles’s first thought is, “I won’t die here.”

The Promises Of Yesterday, The Pledges Of Tomorrow by ShippersList

Stiles is a kid with serious concentration issues and definitely not a guide—let alone a guide strong enough to calm down a feral Sentinel wolf. It’s just not possible.

Keep You (Safe) Within my Shadow by lavenderlotion

Stiles has never been scared of the dark. The shadows are his friends.

Dance Under the Moonlight by Therapeutic_Steter

Anonymous asked: Fae!Stiles saving Peter from Pack’s stupidity and washing his hands of them. Please?

Through Space and Time by MaroonDragon

When Stiles pulls the body of Peter Hale into his ship, he doesn’t expect him to be alive. He also doesn’t realise he might have gotten more than he bargained for.

Promises We Never Made by Green

Peter runs off to wreak havoc without telling Stiles where he’s going. Then Stiles has to rescue him.

Rainwater, Morning Dew, Ozone. by lavenderlotion

When Peter is kidnapped, Stiles is left to come to the rescue.

Peter ends up hard.

Fear (Doesn’t Mean I Can’t Fight) by azerblazer

Peter is the damsel in distress, the Sheriff is the hostage, random unnamed hunters are the bad guys.

Stiles has a bat, a hoodie and a willingness to do anything to protect those he’s loyal to.

Bring it on.

Bone Rot by neglectedtuesday

Stiles watches Peter from across the room, although he feels like he shouldn’t. Like he shouldn’t try to insert himself, even by proxy, into the moments Peter is experiencing. Autumn spills into the living room through the open doors, lighting Peter from behind. He is bathed in soft light and Stiles lingers in the shadows, ignoring the symbolism of that. He’s bored of all the different metaphors for longing.

Slice by syriala

Blood magic was dangerous magic, but Stiles’ teacher was one of the best, and Stiles wasn’t too worried that it wouldn’t work out. It would cost him, dearly even if his teacher was to be believed, but Stiles had learned all about the sacrifices for this and he couldn’t care less.

Not This Again by RebaK1tten

There’s a rumor that the last episode of the show will have Peter getting killed, again. Perhaps to give him a redemption arc or something.

So this is a fix it fic. I decided Stiles has finished one year of college. And Peter’s back again!

Cleanse My Soul by Mysenia

cywscross asked: “We’re in the middle of a thunderstorm and you wanna stop and feel the rain?” + Steter? Thanks:)

Call My Name by KouriArashi

After moving to Beacon Hills, Stiles starts having recurring dreams of a man in some kind of prison, who needs his help. Things get so bad that he ends up in Eichen House, where he finds out that the man is real.

Shelter by ShippersList (more hurt/comfort than straight-up saving Peter)

A magical attack leaves Peter vulnerable and in agony, and it reminds him way too much of his time in a coma.

love me lights out by veterization

Stiles and Peter get snowed in together. (Or: what happens when you accept phone calls from people you haven’t spoken to in over five years.)

labyrinth by sinequanon

Stiles prefers goblins to werewolves. Except maybe Peter.

Til Death by Bunnywest

“How long do we have to find him someone?” Stiles asks.“Two weeks,” says Derek, eyebrows pulling down even further. The fierceness of his expression tells Stiles just how concerned he is.“He marries, or he goes to the camps. And you know what your father told us,” Scott reminds her.The camps……aren’t camps.Peter either finds a wife, or he dies.

Bigfoot Told Me You Were Coming by twothumbsandnostakeincanon (somanyofthekids)  (Stetopher)

Peter and Chris are on the run when they stumble across Stiles’ home in the woods.

You Got Me Now by syriala

Stiles stormed into the warehouse, eyes roaming around, desperate to find Peter. The pack was close behind Stiles, but he didn’t pay them any mind when his eyes fell on Peter.

He was on the floor, not even shackled, like someone had just discarded him without a second thought.

Peter was naked except for his pants, and Stiles could see the wounds that marred his skin. He decided not to think about why they weren’t healed.

Bittersweet Creek by Guede

When Stiles finally steps off the westward trail to California, he’s the last of his pack. He starts building a den, but then he finds a dying man next to a burnt-down house and it turns out he’s not really much of a settler, after all.

The Alpha by Therapeutic_Steter

An Alpha always protects what’s theirs.

…..

“Has anyone seen Peter?” Stiles asked at the next Pack meeting, trying to play his concern off as his typical curiosity. It wasn’t like he and Peter had been trying to keep…whatever it was that was developing between them a secret, but most of the Pack was notoriously self-absorbed and hadn’t noticed yet. As it stood, Stiles was only sure that Lydia and Derek knew about it; Lydia because she put it together and warned Peter off hurting Stiles and Derek because he came back to the loft to find them snuggled on the couch looking through an old tome and he’d also warned Peter about hurting Stiles.

Why did they not think Stiles could hurt Peter? Stiles could totally hurt him. If he wanted. Which he didn’t, but that was beside the point.

Let Me Run Away With You by Whispering_Sumire (Steterek)

“So,” Peter says, after an hour or so of driving in tense silence, “I assume we’re going back to your beloved Beacon Hills?”

“No,” Stiles tells him, without even looking up from the restorative paste he’s administering to Derek’s wounds. And isn’t that surprising?

“No?”

“I took the GPS out of Roscoe and I hacked into some of your accounts to get him travel-ready. I don’t care where we go Peter, but I don’t want to go back to Beacon Hills,” there’s a desperation in his voice that makes Peter’s skin crawl, though he has no idea why, “please.”

“Okay,” Peter agrees softly.

[Or: The one where Stiles is in a very bad place, and Peter and Derek manage to unwittingly save him from himself while he saves them from themselves.]

Hostile Takeover by kiranightshade

Alternate season 4 where Peter gains a new roommate in Eichen…for about five minutes. Then all hell breaks loose.

For Great Justice! by Green

Stiles is a vengeance demon, drawn to Peter just as he’s waking from his catatonia.

“Whoever did this? We will make those fuckers suffer. I promise you.”

Enemy Action by pprfaith

Once is chance, twice is coincidence and three times is far too many bodies on the ground.

Whiskey is My Kind of Lullaby by taylorpotato

Peter is a simple saloon owner on one of the outer planets between the Aaru Belt and the Olympus Galaxy. He’s done with trouble. Done with adventure. So fucking done with rustlers. That is, until a cute young outlaw named Stiles wanders into his bar. Peter has this problem where he can’t seem to resist charming narcissists (perhaps because they remind him of himself). And when said narcissists turn his life upside-down, the worst part is he’s not even that upset about it.

[menswearmusings]

Ugly Tyrolean Shoes: Kind of Appealing to Me Right Now

I follow a lot of stylish guys on Instagram, and I’ve noticed a couple guys who wear the Tyrolean-style shoe a lot. Derek over at Put This On wrote about them a couple years ago. The most widespread version of the shoe is the Clarks Wallabee. I always thought they were ugly, but whenever I see the higher-end version made by Heschung on stylish men like Greg from No Man Walks Alone, I always reconsider. I tried the Wallabee a couple years ago and loved how comfortable it was, but the shape of the toe was not to my liking.

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  Sit back, relax and scroll through our sale section. You deserve it 🥃

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Padmore & Barnes, which is the Irish factory that originally manufactured for Clarks, then was spun off as its own company when Clarks moved production to Asia, still sells the original Wallabee, and its toe shape looks vastly better. Kiyoshi from Five in Blue did a comparison a few months ago to show the difference.

But I also am liking the version made by Astorflex, the Italian company whose crepe-sold desert boots I recently bought and am loving. Called the “Beenflex,” End clothing has them in a few different makes, including suede with the super comfy crepe sole but also some pairs, presumably new in for fall, in leather with commando soles. The leather doesn’t look as high-quality as the Heschung version, but at 1/3 the price, that’s not a surprise.

I’m not sure how water resistant the Astorflex version is, though the commando sole, leather version will fare better than the suede crepe sole in the rain by default. But the key is that toe shape, and at $165, it’s a less expensive way to try out the style.

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

Read more at Menswear Musings

[rayshippouuchiha]

Hello, Rayshippouuchi!

I wanted to say just how HAPPY I am now that you’re writing for Steter. Teen Wolf has a lot of BS problems, but the fanfiction truly made (makes?) it amazing. I’ve missed you in the fandom, so seeing a new Steter story from you absolutely makes my day!

Since you have people on your blog that are curious about Steter but haven’t read anything really about it I hope you don’t mind me giving you some of my favorite story links? I hope you find new and awesome stories in my recommendations too! :)

–

The Foul Rag and Bone Shop of the Heart – Malapropian

https://archiveofourown.org/works/4224219/chapters/9551961

Write Me Notes in Glitter Glue – piborch

https://archiveofourown.org/series/320636

Lucky Penny (Tastes Like Copper on Your Tongue) – pibroch

https://archiveofourown.org/works/4013770

Here Begins the Land of Phantoms – Triangulum

https://archiveofourown.org/works/17503994

Ink Blossoms – Triangulum

https://archiveofourown.org/works/14884065

when you’re going through hell (keep going for me) – cywscross

https://archiveofourown.org/works/17132132/chapters/40291337

ghost at my shoulder – cywscross

https://archiveofourown.org/works/8244254/chapters/18891986

The Secret in His Eyes – cywscross

https://archiveofourown.org/works/7122646/chapters/16177945

Learning to Live Again – cywscross

https://archiveofourown.org/works/6147113

Love Thy Neighbor – cywscross

https://archiveofourown.org/works/2552132

Prison Break – cywscross

https://archiveofourown.org/works/3643614

Love What Is Behind You – KouriArashi

https://archiveofourown.org/works/10169759

Call My Name – KouriArashi

https://archiveofourown.org/works/4070788

Get Off (Me) – KouriArashi

https://archiveofourown.org/works/928086

Tell Me Lies (Tell Me Sweet Little Lies) – rightsidethru

https://archiveofourown.org/works/14883767

Hoshi No Tama (Hungry Like the Wolf) – rightsidethru

https://archiveofourown.org/works/12842118

The Child of Frost and Flame – rightsidethru

https://archiveofourown.org/series/803433

This Time Around – Green

https://archiveofourown.org/works/8700343

Creatures Like Us – Green

https://archiveofourown.org/works/12629826

From Ashes Rebuilt – ambersagen

https://archiveofourown.org/works/17587955

Parking Tickets and Politics – DiscontentedWinter

https://archiveofourown.org/works/17086229

e-Missary – DiscontentedWinter

https://archiveofourown.org/works/13160694

Suit ‘Verse – Bunnywest

https://archiveofourown.org/series/980916

*actually Chris Argent/Peter Hale/Stiles Stilinski but summary makes it 100% worth it:

Chris and Peter run HA Menswear. Stiles works at Gamesworld. They strike up an agreement, sharing kitchen and bathroom access. Stiles would like to share more, but Hot Suit guys are a couple, so he knows it will never happen. Never. Right?

You Had Me At Canapes – LadyArinn

https://archiveofourown.org/works/7178927/chapters/16295645

My Babysitter was a Teenage Werewolf – Guede

https://archiveofourown.org/works/15245265

Branch System – Guede

https://archiveofourown.org/works/13627305

A Supernatural Rogue’s Guide to Country Peerage – Guede

https://archiveofourown.org/series/764673

*main story is Stiles Stilinski/Lydia Martin/Derek Hale/Peter Hale for pairing

According to plan – Feelingsdusk

https://archiveofourown.org/works/6490537

Some things are worth the wait – FeelingsDusk

https://archiveofourown.org/works/6203161

Booth Babe VS the Alphas – Elpie (Horribibble)

https://archiveofourown.org/works/2522564

drowning in the sea of you – Corpium

https://archiveofourown.org/works/2832491

Whose Woods These Are – moonstalker24

https://archiveofourown.org/works/2545733

Schrodinger’s Wolves – wynnebat

https://archiveofourown.org/works/2602163

Roommate Wanted: No Supernatural Creatures Allowed – veterization

https://archiveofourown.org/works/1381153

Temporary Claim – sunrise_and_death

https://archiveofourown.org/works/1339246

Amends – AuntieClimactic

https://archiveofourown.org/works/633727

I know that theres a lot of links, but hopefully plenty of awesome reading for everyone. :)

~~~~

Oh I’ve read a bunch of these but there’s so many gems on here! Thank you so much for this list!

[putthison]

Put This On’s 2017 Holiday Gift Guide

Tis the season for fretting over what to get the people. To help with the endeavor, every year, we write about our most recent favorites. So, coming just in time for the holiday season, here’s our 2017 gift guide -- things that would be awesome for anyone in your life. 

Before we get started though, we’d love it if you’d check out stuff from our beloved sponsors. The Hanger Project has some wonderful shoe care products; Proper Cloth sell cozy knitwear (probably hard to gift their MTM shirts without your friend knowing); and Chipp’s grenadines are among the most useful ties anyone can own. Dapper Classic’s socks make for nice stocking stuffers; Huckberry has things for the outdoorsman; and Twillory has both whimsical and basic button-ups. 

Additionally, we have some wonderful gift suggestions in our shop, organized by various price tiers. Throw this corner kick charm on a chain and you have a necklace, or give that clotheshorse in your life this Duke of Windsor themed shoehorn. Our Gentlemen’s Association subscriptions could also be that year-round gift that keeps on giving -- a handrolled and handsewn pocket square, made from fabrics picked out by Jesse, delivered to your friend’s doorstep every month. 

OK, to the gifts!

Muth's Mudjeskas

I grew up in San Francisco, eating special occasion candy from See's and Joseph Schmidt's Chocolates. A few years ago, a gift guide from Sweethome turned me on to Muth's Mudjeskas, sold through Muth's Candies in Louisville, Kentucky. They're caramel-covered marshmallows, but that hardly begins to describe them. They ship well, everyone loves them, and if I am frank, they trounce their California competitor, Scotch Kisses from See's, in every category. This year I may try the chocolate-covered ones. -Jesse

Brass Kaweco Sport Fountain Pen

I’ll admit, I am not a pen guy. My handwriting is almost illegible, and so I've always preferred a keyboard to the manual writing experience. But a few months ago in London, I stumbled upon the Kaweco Sport, an inexpensive German fountain pen. The base models are plastic, but the one I bought is made from brass. It's a compact pen, but the hefty metal and large cap make it feel substantial. It's comfortably less than a hundred bucks, writes beautifully, and is handsome as hell. A real "pen guy" probably has ultra-particular tastes you'll never be able to accommodate, but the Kaweco is a great option for someone who’ll enjoy an upgrade from the world of rollerballs. -Jesse

Glerups Wool Slipper Boots

My wife walked around the house barefoot for decades, unbothered by cold or dirt. My toesies are always frozies, so I never took off my shoes. (I know, I know, but I have wood floors and live in California, where the elements don't follow you indoors). Then my wife’s feet started to hurt and her doctor laid it out for her: you need to wear some support anytime you're walking on hard surfaces. The answer was boiled-wool slippers like these, from Glerups. They keep your feet cozy without overheating, and they have a bizarrely compelling style. Glerups are the option recommended by the product review site The Sweethome, and I trust their judgement. -Jesse

[Pete’s note: I also dig these Tyrolean wool slippers, which have thin leather soles. They're like sweaters for your feet.]

John Hodgman's Vacationland

Hodgman took a hard turn in his new book, Vacationland. His first three books were compendia of imagined facts. They were deeply personal, but they weren't real. Vacationland is a genuine memoir, a story that follows Hodgman through three parts of life: growing up as a prematurely middle-aged child in a ramshackle house in Brookline, Mass; inheriting his family's summer home in Western Mass; and buying a home in his wife's family seat of Maine. It's very funny, but it's also beautifully written, and ultimately becomes a consideration of the pleasures and responsibilities of adulthood. A perfect gift for the dad who has everything. -Jesse

Manufactum Map Case

The map case has always struck me as the perfect man's purse. Unlike a big shoulder bag, it's modest in size, but it still has enough distinctiveness from a lady's bag and enough military heritage to feel like a man could wear it. In other words: it's useful enough for a woman, but PH-balanced for a man. The problem with map cases is that the real deal -- often made for European armies in the 1950s and ‘60s -- are made of vinyl and ultra-low-quality leather. Their form is appealing, but the reality is not. The other day, I got a doorstop of a catalog from the German retailer Manufactum, and I was thrilled to find that they have remade the German map case with real grown-up leather. -Jesse

Felt Hats by Barbara Keal

Years ago, when we were shooting Put This On in London, I met Guy Hills, the proprietor of Dashing Tweeds. Guy is a crackling ball of joyful, boyish energy. He rode around on one of those giant-wheel bicycles, showed us the riverboat behind his house, and told about his tweeds. He also showed us a hat his family had bought him for Christmas. It was a breathtaking concoction from felted wool, a ragged animal crown that reminded me of Where the Wild Things Are. "My friend Barbara made it for me, don't you love it?" And frankly, I did. I'm no furry, no costume-wearer, but it was genuine art. It was breathtaking. So I asked for one for Christmas from my family. It's one of my most treasured possessions. She takes commissions, although they can take a while to make. -Jesse

Ray Barretto’s Acid

Ray Barretto was one of the great bandleaders of Latin music. He was an accomplished jazz player, accompanying acts such as Art Blakey and Lou Donaldson as a conguero. When boogaloo hit in the early ‘60s, he had one of its signature hits, “El Watusi.” By 1968, Barreto was making salsa with the legendary Fania Records. He was music director of the Fania All-Stars, perhaps the greatest salsa band of all time, and making records under his own name. Acid is more than just a bit of trendy psychedelia. It's a genuinely thrilling record, with salsa, boogaloo, Latin rock, and jazz all in a blender. You don't need to know those genres to appreciate them either because, ultimately, it's dance music. It jams. If this one doesn’t thrill you, you're dead inside. -Jesse

Aurora Shoe Company

I was flipping through a Japanese fashion magazine the other day, and was stopped short by these handmade shoes from Aurora Shoe Company. They were in a section featuring the editors' personal favorites and I could see why. They're profoundly dowdy, but immensely charming. The Middle English has full size runs for me (including narrow) and is pretty great, but the one I saw was the West Indian. Sadly, they only carry that one in sizes up to 11 womens, which is a 9 mens. Great if you're a Japanese fashion editor, but less great if you're a giant American oaf. -Jesse

Children’s Books, Who Needs Donuts and Radiant Child

Is there a picture-book-aged kid on your list? I've got three kids myself, and am a real snob. These are two books that meet my standards. Who Needs Donuts is a strange and hilarious story about a boy obsessed with collecting donuts. He learns the true meaning of love. It has the anarchic, deviant quality that animates Maurice Sendak and insane, riotous pictures that you can look at for hours. One of those stories that gets its hooks in deeply and you're not sure how. Radiant Child is a new picture biography of Jean-Michel Basquiat by Javaka Steptoe. Steptoe is a gifted artist himself, and his pictures were built from fragments of Basquiat's past, like literal window frames from the places he lived. He also isn't afraid of the deepest emotional resonances of Basquiat's life and work. The book is largely driven by Basquiat's relationship with his mentally ill mother, and the subject is presented beautifully  and movingly. Steptoe's own mother struggled with mental illness, and in reading, an adult can see the ways Basquiat's story is animated by Steptoe's. -Jesse

A Small Vintage Steiff Animal

The world is full of Steiff collectors, the world's greatest manufacturer of stuffed animals. There's a reason, too. Steiffs have immense charm, they're distinctive, and more than a little bit beautiful. They also make great gifts. The older, smaller ones are generally well under a hundred bucks on eBay or from a local antique shop, and you have your choice of a century of creatures. You can go with a classic bear, but I love the more unusual beasts, such as lobsters or ride-on turtles or this tremendous fox, which may be begging for a treat? -Jesse 

(Derek’s note: for the menswear enthusiasts among you, A Kind of Guise routinely makes parkas with Steiff’s signature wools). 

A Plant (and an Accompanying Planter)

I like giving art or decorative objects as gifts (although they can be risky if you don’t know someone’s taste pretty well). Another good gift in this category is a simple houseplant­­—an easy and almost universal present. Houseplants have been undergoing a bit of a renaissance recently, so the availability and variety are broader than they were a few years ago. The snake plant is easy to care for and doesn’t need much light or attention. One of my favorites (still reasonably small—fit for a desk or countertop) is a staghorn fern. Air plants and small succulents can also fit almost anywhere and will require minimal care. If you know someone likes plants and has some space, step up to the monstera, whose distinctly shaped leaves you’ll recognize from Aloha shirts. You can find decent selections online from stores like The Sill, which also offers a 30-day guarantee, your local garden store, or even Ikea. -Pete

Lizzy Goodman’s Meet Me in the Bathroom

If the Strokes, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, and LCD Soundsystem were in regular rotation on your first generation iPod, you'll appreciate Goodman's oral history of the New York scene in the ‘00s. Goodman interviewed dozens (hundreds?) of musicians, managers, DJs, and journalists and chronicles how rock 'n' roll re-took over the world from limp late-era alternative rock and Limp Bizkit. The stories they tell are enjoyably revealing, overblown, and gossip-y. Sample quote from James Murphy: “This is me dancing. This isn’t the drugs dancing. This is the drugs stopping myself from stopping myself from dancing.” -Pete

A Watch Winder from WOLF

If your friend owns mechanical wristwatches, a watch winder could be the perfect gift. There’s a lot of debate on whether they’re necessary -- a winder may or may not extend the life of a watch -- but they do eliminate the need to wind automatics. That can be nice if your friend owns watches with certain complications (e.g. setting the date, which can be annoying if you haven’t worn a watch in a while). WOLF makes some wonderful winders. Handsomely designed and constructed from reliable parts, these are fully programmable so you can set the number and direction of rotations (a good way to customize the winder to best suit your watches). They’re also a beautiful way to display special timepieces -- something to decorate on your friend’s dresser or bookshelf. -Derek

A Handsome Mach 3 Handle

Gillette’s Mach 3 has spread into almost every medicine cabinet since it was first introduced in the late ‘90s. It’s the safety razor most men, including me, have stuck with since learning how to shave in high school. Stock Gillette handles, however, are pretty ugly -- cheap, plastic, and dinky looking, they’re an eyesore on countertops. You probably can’t get your friend to switch shaving habits, but you can give them a better Mach 3 handle. British brands such as Edwin Jagger sell some handsome ones, although I prefer the more distinctive hand-turned designs found on sites such as eBay and Etsy. They’re typically hand carved from a block of wood, then lacquered with an epoxy to give the surface a shine and water-resistant finish. I like them in buckeye burl woods. Mine, pictured above, was purchased at this shop. They no longer have the handles in burl wood, although you can find them elsewhere. -Derek

American Trench’s Speckled Wool Socks

Everyone hates cold feet, which is why warm socks make for an easy, even if pedestrian, gift (get it? Pede? Feet? Ok). I like these Donegal-style wool socks at American Trench. They’re cozy, designed to be worn with boots, and made at a Pennsylvanian factory from hardy Italian yarns. The flecks of color give some nice visual interest without being overdone. Kinda pricey at $30, but a two pack runs for $45 and you can keep a pair for yourself. Hard to go wrong with any of the colors, although I dig the yellow ones most. -Derek

A Fancy Ass Cheese Knife

Everyone has that one friend that loves to host parties. And thank God, because without them we’d never leave our homes. To show your appreciation for their efforts, give them a fancy cheese knife. It’ll allow them to serve up some delicious appetizers, add something to their party decor, and give you an excuse to duck out of awkward conversations at said gatherings (“Is that, is that cheese? Excuse me”). Chelsea Miller sells some lovely looking knives. She makes them completely herself, from start to finish, at her workshop in Brooklyn. The metals are sourced from recycled farrier rasps; the wood harvested from her family farm in Vermont. They have a wonderfully elegant and rustic style about them, and would be something your friend and others can use for years. -Derek

Billingham Camera Bag

It never fails to impress me how many people are interested in photography nowadays. Unfortunately, most camera bags aren’t terribly great looking -- black ballistic nylon designs with cheap plastic details, they look like the sort of things carried around convention halls. If you have a friend who’s a budding photographer, give him or her a Billingham instead. They’re made in England and look like repurposed traditional fishing bags (Billingham actually started as a fishing bag manufacturer). The interior is padded to protect camera equipment, but the exterior is made from a handsome mix of cotton canvas and leather. You can find Billingham bags new at their webshop or second-hand on sites such as eBay and Etsy. They also used to make camera bags for Banana Republic -- pre-Gap, back when the brand was still a solid safari-themed outfitter. Extra points if you can find one with that heritage. -Derek

[dagdstyle-blog]

I happened to be in the city for a work-related reason and couldn’t resist the chance to visit Double Monk in The Strand Arcade. These guys have been in Melbourne for ages but have recently opened a Sydney store about 18 months ago. Like all good menswear stores, it is tucked away so you have to go looking for it on the top floor right in the corner. It is not a very big store and there are floor-to-ceiling boxes full of shoes from names like Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, John Lobb and most recently, Alden of New England (which was what got me so excited). 

I had been very excited to see Alden finally come to Australia. Internet purchases are always hit-and-miss and I have a pair of beautiful Alden tassel loafers in shell cordovan which are too small and foot-breakingly painful by midday. Once bitten, I have been apprehensive about pulling the trigger on a pair of Alden Leisure Hand Sewns on the Van last because they are notoriously difficult to size. Unfortunately Double Monk did not have the LHS or any other Alden in the Van last so my loafer purchase remains elusive. Sascha, the manager running the show at the Sydney store, told me that the reason they don’t stock many Alden lasts is purely because of lack of storage. At this rate I may need to pay another visit to America or Hawaii to get my loafers!

Sascha was very helpful and recommended a pair of Crockett & Jones Cavendish in dark brown suede. This is C&J’s tassel loafer (coincidentally just appeared today on putthison.com and one of Derek’s favourites) built on their 325 which is quite rounded and comfortable. Sizing in English shoes is fairly new to me and Sasha’s experience was immediately apparent. Suede is usually more comfortable out of the box and although the  UK 8E was a pretty nice fit, Sasha recommended I size down half a size to account for stretching once the leather breaks in. This is particularly good advice on a pair of loafers as there are no laces to adjust and heel slippage can become a problem later on.

I also had a chance to try on a pair of Edward Green Dovers on the 606 last. This is pretty much a grail shoe for me and I have always told my wife I will buy a pair when we eventually visit the UK. Now it looks like the prospect of owning a pair is much closer than I thought! I love the norwegian split toe style and Edward Green is right up there for me (along with Vass, and maybe JM Weston). The fit was like a glove on my feet and really really comfortable, surprisingly so for brand new lined shoes that aren’t suede. This is a comment I have heard from other people as well. The colour was a mid-to-dark-brown with a burnished toe, which is slightly chiseled on the 606 last – a true classic! I can tell you I was very very tempted!

If you are anywhere near The Strand, definitely give Double Monk a visit. While the brands available are more in the middle to high tier price range (most of the shoes start at about $750 AUD), newbies to goodyear welt with a slightly more liberate budget will find the experience, service and lower risk associated with a brick and mortar store very attractive. More seasoned shoe lovers also have plenty to love here. The staff are knowledgeable and the service is top notch. I don’t think there is another shoe store in Sydney with this kind of range and I will definitely be back when I have accumulated some funds…

p.s. apologies for the crappy smartphone pictures.

    A chance visit to Double Monk I happened to be in the city for a work-related reason and couldn't resist the chance to visit…

[menswearmusings]

From the Articles of Interest Podcast: The Suit (Featuring Derek Guy and G. Bruce Boyer)

A few friends/coworkers of mine love the podcast 99 Percent Invisible and used to talk about it all the time back when I was in the office. As an offshoot of that podcast is a clothing-related podcast with a different host, Avery Trufelman. On a recent episode, she talks about the history of the suit, interviewing Derek Guy who writes Die, Workwear! (my favorite menswear blog) as well as G. Bruce Boyer who has a long history of writing on menswear as well. I enjoyed hearing Derek’s voice, because nobody knows what he looks like so hearing what he sounds like is a good second-best. :D

It’s got the same vibe as 99 Percent Invisible, which is hosted by Roman Mars, so if you like that style, this will feel familiar. If you don’t like that style (like me), it’s worth powering through the aspects you don’t like because she synthesizes the story behind the suit well and it’s interesting to hear (even if you’re familiar with the story already).

Listen to the episode on their website here or on Apple podcasts here.

A description of the podcast from their website:

Articles of Interest is a limited-run podcast series about fashion, housed inside the design and architecture podcast 99% Invisible. Launched in 2018, the show encourages people to rethink the way we look at what we wear and what it says about us.

Read more at Menswear Musings

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Straight vs. Bellied Lapels

Derek at Die, Workwear posted a few years ago about straight vs. bellied lapels. At the time, he said that while he had strong opinions on other aspects of tailoring—like having extended shoulders—he wasn’t sure which type of lapel shape he preferred. In usual Derek fashion, he posted a strong selection of photos illustrating both types. If you’ve not heard this term before, a belly on the lapel simply refers to the curve that starts at the button and goes up toward the notch or peak.

My response back then was strongly in favor of a straight lapel, or a slightly concave one (where it curves inward, as opposed to curving outward as with a belly). In fact, one of the things I love so much about Eidos’ lapel design under Antonio Ciongoli was that he designed his lapels with that concave shape. He originally pitched it as being a flattering cut for men by helping to visually slim the waist and broaden the shoulders (at 1:22 in that linked video).

I was smart enough then not to assume my taste would never change. But here we are, three years later, and they haven’t. My preference is still for a straight lapel, with the slight negative belly seen on Eidos’ jackets my ideal. The exception to this is in a double breasted silhouette—to give the lapels some oomph, I think a belly is required, and if they’re too straight, they feel too sharp and severe. My double-breasted SuitSupply Jort jacket is a perfect example.

A strong belly on the double breasted design by Suit Supply

Straighter lapels on an old 90s-era Polo Ralph Lauren double breasted jacket

What do you think? Do you have a strong preference one way or another, and if so why? Sound off in the comments!

Below is my original Tumblr response to Derek’s article:

I do not like bellied lapels. Actually Eidos has lapels that have a slight negative belly! It’s one thing I love about them actually.

Though, starting in AW15, Antonio and Greg straightened out the lapels on the No Man Walks Alone cut that Eidos makes. This navy fresco suit shows how, with the lapel roll, the effect is still there. Compare with the brown Lorenzo cut jacket below (which has negative belly cut into it and predates the navy fresco suit pictured above it by a year).

The most typical Eidos cut of traditional tailored jacket, the Tenero, is a bit tougher to pin down—if it is cut with a negative belly, it is almost indistinguishable. Below, a current season Tenero jacket.

The Eidos cut that Bloomingdale’s carries (the Balthazar) has a slight belly, and is two-button. I do not buy it and have no interest in doing so, for those two reasons exactly.

Anyway, back to the overall discussion of bellied vs. straight, I’m almost certain that my tastes will change over time and I won’t have such strong opinions in the future. The jackets some of the dudes in Derek’s collection of photos look great. On me, I’m still a straight-lapel or slight inverse lapel guy, but we’ll see how that morphs over time.

Read more at Menswear Musings

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Free Product Review—Ratio Custom Fit Oxford Shirt

A little while ago I made a Venn diagram for Styleforum that neatly categorized a bunch of different makers who all do a good take on the perennially loved Oxford Cloth Button-Down shirt (OCBD for short). For a refresher on the history of the OCBD, read Derek Guy’s excellent series, which he did for Put…

Read more at Menswear Musings