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CATHERINE'S STYLE FILES - 2023

18 JANUARY 2023 || The Princess of Wales visited Foxcubs Nursery in Luton as a part of her work highlighting the importance of early childhood development.

Catherine opted for -

↬ Limited Edition Button Cashmere Wool Camel Coat by Massimo Dutti

↬ ‘Peppe’ Cashmere and Silk Sweater from Gabriela Hearst

↬ ‘Epper’ Ribbed-Knit High-Rise Midi Skirt by Gabriela Hearst

↬ Citrine Pear Drop Earrings by Kiki McDonough

↬ 'Muse' Brown Suede Clutch Bag from Stuart Weitzman

↬ Crocodile Stamped Black Belt from Ralph Lauren

↬ Bespoke Brown Suede Boots by Gianvito Rossi

[bug-ocs]

I would like to know 16 for whoever has the most fun outfits 👀

16. If money wasn’t a limit, what would they wear?

OOUGH rami probably has the most interesting fashion sense! he already has a propensity for "nice, fashionable clothes" and doesn't mind spending a decent amount of money for, say, a well-made cashmere sweater or leather shoes. but if he had the money, more than anything i think he would prefer to commission custom, bespoke clothing items and accessories from artists rather than focusing on big-name brands, ya know? rami can either dress up or down but he'll ALWAYS be fashionable lol.

he would 100% buy bespoke embroidered suits in jewel tones and unconventional colors and he'd wear them to dinner with gen. even if it was like a burger joint lol

he also likes to dress up his outfits with accessories like nice sunglasses, ornate rings, gold chain necklaces, leather bags, gold bangles, etc. so he would probably splurge on some nicer, "real" jewelry that wouldn't tarnish or break so quickly lol likely from independent artists so he could customize them to his liking and pick his favorite gems! where gen treats her house like a museum, i think rami would treat his body like one and wear all sorts of quirky, custom, hand-made accessories!

i could also totally see him commissioning like...custom knitted/quilted pants like these

[styler-custom-clothes-service]

Tailoring for the Seasons: What Custom Clothing to Wear in Each Season

Custom clothing offers the unique ability to tailor your wardrobe for every season, ensuring you always look stylish and feel comfortable, no matter the weather. Whether you’re embracing winter’s chill or summer’s heat, a made-to-order clothing service can provide perfectly fitted pieces for year-round fashion. Here’s how to build a seasonal wardrobe using custom clothing.

Spring: Light Layers and Breathable Fabrics

Spring is all about transition, with fluctuating temperatures and unpredictable weather. Bespoke fashion for women during this time often includes lightweight jackets, trench coats, and airy dresses. Custom tailoring allows you to choose breathable fabrics like cotton or linen, ideal for layering. For an added personal touch, a virtual personal stylist can help you design versatile pieces like a custom blazer or flowy skirt that can transition from cool mornings to warmer afternoons.

Summer: Easy Breezy Styles

When the temperature rises, comfort is key. Custom pieces made from lightweight, breathable fabrics are perfect for staying cool. Think linen shorts, breezy sundresses, and sleeveless tops tailored to your exact measurements. With a custom clothing subscription service, you can receive new, weather-appropriate outfits that reflect your personal style and are designed to keep you comfortable in the summer heat.

Fall: Cozy Layers and Rich Textures

Fall is the season of cozy textures and layering. Custom knits, tailored trousers, and fitted jackets are essential for cooler temperatures. Opt for warm fabrics like wool, cashmere, and flannel to create stylish yet functional outfits. With bespoke clothing, you can select the exact hues and textures that suit your seasonal aesthetic, allowing you to layer stylishly as the temperature drops.

Winter: Insulation Meets Elegance

Winter calls for custom pieces that combine warmth with elegance. A made-to-order coat, lined with wool or cashmere, can provide insulation without sacrificing style. Custom sweaters, turtlenecks, and tailored pants made from heavier fabrics ensure you stay warm while looking chic. A virtual personal stylist can help you craft a winter wardrobe that balances functionality and fashion.

Conclusion

By investing in custom clothing subscription services, you can build a wardrobe tailored to each season, ensuring you’re always dressed appropriately for the weather and your personal style. Customization allows you to choose fabrics, fits, and designs that work in harmony with the season, making your wardrobe a year-round success.

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[broodybatboy]

Gwynriel Headcanons: Cozy & Festive ❄️🌲

A/N: I finished Dash&Lily on Netflix and now I'm watching Love Actually. Grab a cup of cocoa and read some heartwarming Gwynriel headcanons

Gwyn gets really into knitting. She's naturally crafty & good at everything.

Nesta, Cass, Emerie and Az wearing gorgeous knit sweaters

Azriel asking if she knows how to make mittens too because his hands get cold 🥺

Gwyn making a matching set of mittens & a beanie for Azriel and Azriel ONLY

Az proudly wearing his Berdara bespoke and looking like a cozy sexy hunk

the rest of IC getting super jealous (as they should)

Midnight flying trips to see the festive faelights decorating Velaris.

Gwyn's beaming smile & wide-eyed awe. Azriel's soft eyes and secret smiles staring at Gwyn's face. It's prettier than the lights.

Late-night hot cocoa and deep intimate conversations. Extra marshmallows and whipped cream for Gwyn, of course.

Azriel getting a hot cocoa mustache

Gwyn: "Shadowsinger, have you ever thought of growing out your beard a little?"

Gwyn, mumbles: "You'd look hot with scruff."

Az:  "What was that?"

Gwyn: "Nothing." 😳

Azriel tells Gwyn all about the IC’s Solstice traditions and the snowball fight

Azriel trying to be suave and cool casually bragging about all his wins to impress Berdara

Gwyn totally amused that he’s being cocky knowing damn well he lost last year

Gwyn teasing Az about his crushing defeat, being a stubborn sore loser, and this silly cocky attitude.

Azriel: 😑

Gwyn: "So is your goal this year just to win or total annihilation?"

Total annihilation, obviously.

Gwyn and Azriel spend the week before the snowball fight perfecting his plan to completely wreck Rhys & Cass. They devise snow density ratios, sphere-forming techniques, psychological analysis of Cass & Rhys' strengths and weaknesses

Azriel: "I surveyed the ground. The best vantage point is beside the pine tree. The snow fort should be approximately this meters tall..."

Gwyn: "Cassian has a height advantage for throwing. Rhys is shorter which is better for dodging. Cass is more easily provoked. If they start attacking each other you can use the overhand technique...

He wins. Thank you, Gwyneth Berdara.

The cold and stormy weather makes training a little harder than usual. One night, they're dripping in rain. The floor is slick and they end up falling and wrestling on the ground. Cue intense sexual tension and a dramatic stare into each other's eyes.

The nights when it's unbearably cold they stay inside just talking or reading with each other

Azriel has a humongous and cozy blanket. Gwyn loves it and looks positively adorable all snuggled up.

For some reason, they can always fall asleep when they're near each other. For some reason, they always wake up leaning against each other on the sofa. One particularly cold morning, they wake up spooning. But they're just friends, of course.

Gwyn's cold breath forming small clouds and Az's shadowing swirling around it. Curious, innit?

Azriel looking devilishly handsome in a black cashmere turtleneck

Snowflakes in Azriel's hair

Gwyn's freckled nose and cheeks tinging rosy red

Gwyn absentmindedly humming Solstice choir music and old festive songs

Gwyn, Azriel, Nesta and Cassian decorating the House of Wind with garlands, lights, holly, and evergreens.

Nesta and Cassian kissing under the mistletoe. Then, making out under the mistletoe.

Azriel catches clumsy Gwyn from falling while putting up lights

Cassian breaking a box of ornaments and Nesta shouting at him

Gwyn and Cassian wrapping themselves in tinsel

Nesta: "Where did they get bells?!?!"

Azriel: *exasperated sigh*

Gwyn and Cass: *jingle jingle* Okay let's try running faster! *jinglejinglejinglejingle*

The gang traveling to Illyria and surprising Emerie. They decorate her shop and share some mulled wine and peppermint tea.

The girls build Frosty the Snowbat. It's quite impressive and large. It’s modeled after Az’s wingspan…for reasons

The gang makes a point to give back and donate food, clothes, and toys (because a certain High Lord can't be bothered to care about his citizens 🙄) #sorrynotsorry

Gwyn organizes a children's choir in the village. Nesta gives dance lessons. Chef Cass makes a feast. Emerie gives out gifts. It's an Illyrian celebration spectacular!

Azriel helps all of them. He's quite popular with the kids. He's the baritone in Gwyn's choir.

The show is a rousing success and their singing earns a standing ovation

Gwyn knows a recipe to make what are essentially fireworks (the evil lightsinger knows how to make evil colorful lights in the sky OooO she's so dangerous)

Azriel doesn't want Gwyn to get burned. He flies them up into the sky and uses his shadows to help set them off. It's bright and magical. Everyone is in awe, especially, Gwyn.

She thanks him for his help and they share a sweet moment under a snowy tree hidden from everyone.

Azriel the Illyrian Grinch's heart grew three sizes that day.

Gwyn jumping into Azriel arms excitedly to hug him every time she greets him (she's really cheery around the holidays and he’s always super warm)

Both of them savoring in each other's warmth and lingering in their embraces

Frosty but sunny morning trips into town for holiday shopping for all their friends.

Gwyn is a beautiful writer and makes her own cards. She writes the most loving and heartfelt notes inside. She brings Nesta and Emerie to tears. Cassian is choked up and practically squishes her.

Azriel is stunned and so moved that he can't form words and his chest feels funny. He waits until they are alone. He doesn't know what to say so he just hugs her for a very long time. He kisses her on the forehead and tells her how grateful he is for their friendship (oh these sweet idiots)

Despite the freezing cold, this holiday season feels warm. They feel the joy, they feel cared for, they feel loved. The long cold nights feel less lonely with each other.

Who else feels warm and fuzzy? already working on a part 2 ☺️

[nomanwalksalone]

BOOK REVIEW: RICHARD JAMES SAVILE ROW

by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans

As Troy McClure said about playing the human in a musical adaptation of Planet of the Apes, reviewing this book is “the role I was born to play!”

Simply entitled Richard James: Savile Row, this book commemorates the 25th anniversary in Savile Row of the fashion house and tailors of the same name.  A read is somewhat disappointing, full of short essays by what amounts to a rather incestuous school of longtime Richard James fans in British media and entertainment, among them British GQ’s Dylan Jones and Richard’s most notorious client, Elton John.

Elton’s known as a voracious devotee – to not say addict – of his favorite outfitters over the decades, buying out entire shopfloors at times.  His twenty-year devotion to Richard James is a key to understanding Richard James’ enormous if unrecognized positive influence on contemporary men’s clothing and British tailoring. Forty years ago Elton dressed head-to-toe in psychedelic Tommy Nutter, switching in the 1980s to over-the-top Gianni Versace glitz.  Since the end of the 1990s, he’s evangelized Richard James.

Tommy Nutter, the last tailor-designer in Savile Row, dominated British men’s tailoring in the 1970s.  Custom tailoring took a back seat to the cult of the ready-to-wear designer, mostly the Continentals: Pierre Cardin, then Armani and Versace.  Nutter had a few isolated 1980s hits, like dressing the Joker in 1989’s Batman, before dying in 1992.

What had become of the British? 1980s attitudes towards luxury and clothing meant regression, selling an image of Britain as Raj, pith helmets, and gin among palm trees, not progress. Ralph Lauren did a much better job selling that ethos in his more expensive lines than any of the British could.  Some tried; those of us of a certain age (me) remember seeing cashmere sweaters made in China sold in Bloomingdales under the label of Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes, or blocky ready-to-wear suits at Barneys sold with the name of Savile Row tailor Kilgour, French & Stanbury, although made in Canada by Samuelson.  An ersatz Britishness for export markets, an ersatz image and look created by ready-to-wear licensees with little input from the British tailors desperately trying to sell their names abroad.

Into this breach came Richard James. Like Nutter, James is categorically not a trained tailor.  What he is, though, is an inspired designer who, since opening on Savile Row, has offered true custom tailoring as well as ready-to-wear in visionary designs.  I remember the first Richard James items I noticed, beautiful belts and wallets of gorgeous quality hand stitched in England with contrasting linings in deeply saturated color.  I still have one of those belts, in all its magnificence.  What did they have to do with British custom tailoring?  Nothing – and everything. For the first time a Savile Row name appeared to be doing something relevant, interesting and elegant – and doing it to the fullest extent and the last detail. Savile Row survives by its export markets and by the reputation its tailors have forged for beautiful items of a certain Britishness.  No more uninspired licensed items that has as much to do with British elegance as a Sterling car (derided by Consumer Reports for “Industrial Revolution-era” English technology, remember those?). What Richard James has done is modernize British elegance from the creepy colonial-obsessed ethos that today only blinkered Brexiteer bluestockings and Internet edgelords cling to.  Even the past James references uses other, more inspired touchstones of British greatness, including his bespoke offer (initially serviced by the Savile Row tailors Anthony J. Hewitt and James Levett before being brought in-house), but also ready-to-wear shirts in stripes that recalled the best of Swinging London; handmade ties whose lush, delicate patterns rivalled the best of midcentury Sulka or today’s Charvet; magnificently, decadently warm alpaca pile ‘teddy bear” coats originally created for 1920s motorists; astonishingly soft leather or suede jackets in the café racer style 1960s London Mods would have died for; and even the made-to-order cashmere socks with custom monograms Corgi used to make for defunct shops of yesteryear like the custom shirtmaker Beale & Inman.  It was a vision of Britishness far, far from Lauren’s fantasies, a Britishness that admitted the turmoil of Ted Heath’s premiership, that added much-needed glamor after John Major’s greyness.  And James reminded us what was wonderful about the British suit by invoking all that was dashing in its cut.  Ready-to-wear suits were made in beautiful cloths from British mills like the impeccable Taylor & Lodge, in unexpectedly evocative colors and patterns: sharp mohair sharkskin, gorgeously patterned real Scottish or Irish tweeds or a French navy that was lighter than the normal shade; even rainbow chalkstripes on a sober dark ground.  The cut was always tapered at the waist, double-vented, slant pocketed in the “hacking” style, a look espoused by Patrick Macnee’s subversively too-British John Steed in the 1960s.  Richard’s linings were often boldly colorful, to remind us what could be playful about the suit, everything that 1980s pretention (clinging to all the trimmings of colonial oppression) had repressed.

Richard James the book shines in cataloguing those designs in beautiful detail.  James really has been the best colorist in the business, as Jones termed him.  Even more importantly, this book also shows how James has aced the tricky game of tennis without a net of innovating within the classic: in addition to recreating ruffle-fronted tuxedo shirts like those of George Lazenby’s louche Bond in 1969’s On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, James also invented tuxedo shirts whose fronts (instead of pleats or stiff waffle-weave Marcella) were hand-beaded by Hand & Lock, beaders and embroiderers to Her Majesty the Queen; Corgi (knitters and hosiers to the Prince of Wales) knitted thick, thick cashmere sweaters with hand-inlaid abstract intarsia designs; elegant cufflinks (always double-sided) recalled childhood marbles in the forms of hand-blown translucent glass or semiprecious banded agate (a real “Aggie”) or amber set in sterling silver; and even a travel bag that recalled the bags given away by Pan Am or Concorde in the early days of jet travel was rendered in ballistic nylon with reflective silver piping and brilliantly contrasting linings.

I’ve never owned a Richard James bespoke suit.  I know that his ready-to-wear suits were disappointingly half-canvassed or fused, despite their wonderful materials.  But they helped remind me that Savile Row could still be relevant, and that those tailors, despite past reputation, could be approachable and contemporary – and that has been my experience with the other tailors of Savile Row, including the impeccable, evocatively named Steed, whom I loved for their name before ever using them.

Every item with the Richard James name carried and carries the same visionary, whimsical design philosophy, a Britishness less fanciful and more romantic than Paul Smith’s, and far less caricatural and cynical than those of Ralph Lauren or Hackett.  Socks, always made to a high-standard by Pantherella, are accented in amusing contrast colors or mad patterns. I have a number that are doing fine almost 20 years later.  My Richard James Concorde bag has been a beloved, perfect gym bag for years, while his larger, tougher Japanese denim bag (trimmed in the best British bridle hide) is my go-to travel holdall no matter where on Earth I go. My beaded Richard James tux shirt is a prized piece of design genius, as is a magnificently waterproof raincoat made for him by Mackintosh in a beige twill that cunningly iridesces turquoise or orange from certain angles. For years I’ve searched for the same shade of gorgeous Thomas Mason turquoise twill cotton that an old Richard James shirt is in, but most of his materials are specially made for his designs; even the fine-gauge cotton knits that John Smedley or Peter Geeson created for him seemed to be in special colors and to his own patterns.

That wealth, that treasury of a vision and genius, tumbles out of Richard James’ new book, pictures that really are worth thousands of words and that speak for themselves about the importance of this designer’s contribution, reminding us that Savile Row, indeed British menswear itself, still had things of wonder to offer us.

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[world-of-wales]

CATHERINE'S STYLE FILES - 2022

1 DECEMBER 2022 || The Princess of Wales visited Eastern Boston visited Piers Park in East Boston to see the changing face of Boston’s shoreline as the city contends with rising sea levels along with the Prince of Wales on their second day while on a 3-Day Trip to the city.

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'Peppe' Cashmere and Silk Turtleneck Sweater in 'Spice' by Gabriela Hearst

'Epper' Ribbed-Knit High-Rise Nidi Skirt in 'Spice' from Gabriela Hearst

Bespoke Brown Long Coat by Alexander McQueen

Gold and Diamond 'Maxi' Cupid Hoop Earrings by Daniella Draper

Bespoke Ankle Boots in Brown Suede by Gianvito Rossi

[canary3d-obsessed]

Lost Tomb Lewks, Part 2

(Masterpost) (More Canary Frivolity)

Warning: mild spoilers for both seasons of The Lost Tomb Reboot

Look 6: Wu Xie busts out the clean & preppy look for a visit to his Second Uncle. He’s just a rich boy from a rich family, spare him his life...

I really appreciate what the camera operator is doing for us here but I don’t feel like these jeans entirely do Wu Xie’s ass justice. Unfortunately, not every show can bespoke-tailor Zhu Yilong’s trousers onto him as if they were made of paint. 

This look features a cream-colored sweater with cable knit detailing down the front and ribbed raglan sleeves. Underneath he’s got a collared blue shirt with the collar tucked or buttoned down inside the sweater. Tight black jeans and pristine white kicks round out the look. 

This outfit says, very relatably, “I am one person with my friends and another with my family.” One thing I like about this show is how it engages with the difficulty of balancing family obligations and one’s own life path. Wu Xie is pretty successful at being true to himself, his uncles, his friends, and the Wu legacy all at the same time, but he has to push back against a lot of demands in order to achieve that. 

Look 7: Uncle Wu Erbai gets to show off his fashion sense in this introductory scene, as well, wearing a shirt with a band collar and a double-breasted grey suit. His glasses are a combination of gold-color metal and brown plastic rims. Overall his looks says he’s a trendy, but not flashy, rich guy in later middle age.

Look 8: Bad guy Xue is an asshole, but he wears a couple of pretty good outfits. This one features a clever twist on a tangzhuang jacket. The shape and frog fastenings of this jacket are like a normal tangzhuang, but the lapels and collar are cut like a western style suit jacket - but tailored to be worn up, not folded back like a western lapel. This creates an interesting neckline detail, in which the notch and open vee show off the clean cut of the standing shirt collar underneath.  

(more after the cut)

Look 9 is a good one for having a classic jump scare while exploring. The main part of this outfit is a practical olive green coat that we’ll be seeing more of. It’s got a good face-framing popped collar. 

It’s hard to see, but this outfit has a dark brown shirt with with a lighter-colored pocket on the front. The clothing in this show is full of interesting details, but the camera doesn’t consistently pause to examine them, being more interested in story, mood, and character development. Stupid camera.

This look includes adorable driving gloves with a nice pierced-dot pattern.

This is a good look for being wet, and admiring your wet boyfriend platonic life partner true love sworn brother soul mate adventure buddy fuck buddy lover friend.

This episode introduces Zhang QiLing and his first hoodie, but it’s so dark throughout his initial scenes that there’s not much to say about it except 1. it’s a hoodie 2. with a beautiful man inside it.  We’ll look more closely at his hoodies later in the series.

Look 10: Fortunately the show wastes no time unwrapping QiLing’s torso, and pouring buckets of water on him so that Wu Xie we can admire his bod, which is entirely worthy of admiration. OP has put these lightning gifs in slow motion for the good of any flashing-sensitive brains out there. And for no other reason.

This is a good look for....uh...this is a good look.

Look 11 appears out of context at different points in the show, when Wu Xie sits at his tasteful table and writes in his tasteful deckle-edge journal with his tasteful fountain pen. The show does a great job giving each character a distinctive and consistent style. Wu Xie’s is always subtle except for his monstrous first look, with an emphasis on soft textural elements & a narrow range of earth tones. That go well with blood. 

This look features a soft marled cardigan over a thin sweater that looks like lambswool or cashmere. Something that can handle a very fine gauge machine knit, is soft, and throws back a nice glow when the light hits it. It has a tiny horizontal stripe. This sweater pairing is either grey, brown, yellow, or green; the scene lighting is warm and has a yellow cast, so it’s hard to say how much of the color is actually inherent in the clothing. 

Look at his lovely translucent ear.

Wu Xie is wearing this look to write in his own Grave Robber’s Note, or his diary, at any rate.  If he wants to have someone to pass it along to, he’d better get busy, literally.

This is a good look for contemplating your obligations to the future of your family, and wondering if now is a good time to talk about polyamory with your two favorite Xiao’s.