#non sparking hex bit socket

[nonsparkingtools]

Daman Non Sparking - No.101I 1/2" Dr Socket Set-28pcs.

Daman Non Sparking – No.101I 1/2″ Dr Socket Set-28pcs.

Dr Socket Set Size.

101I           Socket 10mm,11mm,12mm,13mm,14mm,

15mm,16mm,17mm,18mm,19mm,20mm,

21mm,22mm,23mm,24mm,26mm,27mm,

28mm,30mm,32mm

Ratchet Wrench 245mm

Sliding T-Handle 250mm

Speed Handle 400mm

Driver Extension 125mm,250mm

Universal Joint 80mm

Screwdriver Socket 52mm

Socket Case

[albanycountyfasteners-blog]

The convenience of Allen Wrenches in Everyday Life

An Allen wrench or hex wrench includes a hexagonal shape and can be utilized with care, mostly used in plumbing and electrical applications. They're intended to give 360° of rotation at points up to 35°. Allen wrenches with T-molded handles can give expanded turning force and increasingly comfortable grips. Non-sparking and non-magnetic Allen wrenches can be useful in lethal environments. The head of a Torx key looks like a 6-point star and is mostly used in computers and other electronics.

Structure& Basic Utility

The Allen wrench itself is a little L-molded wrench with six sides. If you inspect a cross-section of the Allen wrench, it would appear like a hexagon. Since Allen wrench has such a particular shape, it can only be used with items that are specially designed for it. If you've ever bought furniture and you had to assemble yourself, the manufacturer likely includes an Allen wrench for you to use when you have to assemble it.

In addition to putting together furniture, the Allen wrench is often utilized for bicycle fixes. The surprising shape, in addition to the way that the Allen wrench is little, light and equipped for getting into hard-to-reach places in a bicycle, makes it especially valuable for cyclists to carry with them as they ride.

Size

Each key is intended to be utilized with screws of a particular size, with rather tight tolerance.Allen wrench is commonly sold in kits, known as Allen key set or Allen wrench set. It includes half a dozen or more keys of different sizes. Usually, the length of Allen wrenches increases with the size of the socket, but not necessarily in direct proportion.

Drill bits Fastening

Allen wrenches are also used to fasten drill bits. Every drill machine comes with an Allen wrench of its specific size. Thus, everything from automobiles to different electronics relies on Allen wrenches for basic fixes. Several machines and power tools also require Allen wrenches for adjusting their positioning.

Flat Head Allen Wrench

Most Allen wrenches feature the conventional flat ends as they are suitable for common uses. The flat end allows the key to fit closely inside the screw head or a nut. Thus, when applying a lot of force to the wrench, you should always use one of these types of wrenches.

Ball Head Allen Wrench

Ball-head Allen wrenches are designed for when the user needs to fasten a nut at a particular angle. Most ball head Allen wrenches work within 25 degrees of the point, which makes them ideal for tight spaces. You can use a ball-head Allen wrench for everyday use

Short Arm Allen Wrench

Generally, the vertical length of Allen wrench is always longer than the horizontal length. The long-arm and short-arm modifiers tell us the degree of the difference in length. short arm hex keys are mostly about50% longer on the vertical side as compared tothe horizontal side.

Long Arm Allen Wrench

For long arm hex keys, they are typically at least two times longer in the vertical direction than they are in the horizontal direction.

Variety of Allen wrenches are available at Albany County Fasteners.  

[mopishblog]

SparkMaker Review: A Revolutionary $300 Resin 3D Printer… But It Doesn’t Actually Work

Our verdict of the SparkMaker: We couldn’t get a successful print out of it, but with a few modifications, you might. There’s no doubt that SLA printers produce fantastic quality prints… when they work. 210

The SparkMaker began life as a $99 Kickstarter, which I was understandably skeptical of. Not only was that a ludicrously cheap price for a 3D printer, it was absolutely preposterous for an SLA 3D printer – which was previously the domain of much more expensive industrial printers. It’s now in production, shipping to backers, and available for just shy of $300 from OGadget for everyone else – but is it worth it?

What is an SLA / Resin Printer?

Until now, most consumer grade 3D printers have been FDM – or Fused Deposition Modelling. They use a raw material of plastic spaghetti-like filament, heat it up to around 200C, then push it out and let it cool down in the shape you want. The resolution of an FDM printer can go up to around 50 microns, though this can be improved with smaller hot end mods. There’s a huge range of printers of FDM printers to choose from, suitable for all levels of experience.

An SLA (or StereoLithography Apparatus) printer uses photosensitive resin as the raw material (a liquid), which solidifies when exposed to UV light. This can come either from a moving UV laser, or in the case of the SparkMaker, UV LEDs and an LCD screen to mask off each layer. As the print solidifies, it’s pulled out of the resin tank.

The reason why SLA printing is so exciting is that the quality can be so much higher: up to 10 microns on the SparkMaker.

What’s in the Box?

In the SparkMaker box you’ll find:

The printer, with red plastic cover.

Hex tool, for levelling and unscrewing the resin vat.

Power supply and appropriate IEC cable for your country.

Your choice of resin, if you chose the sample set.

At the very least, you will also need to purchase:

Gloves. Don’t touch resin, it’s horrible sticky stuff.

A metal spatula, for removing the print.

99% Isopropyl cleaning liquid, for any resins other than LCD-W.

You should also consider:

A syringe, for removing leftover resin back to the pot. You can just pour it back, but it’s a bit messy.

UV curing light, such as those used for nail art. You can also cure in the sun, but it’ll take longer.

A replacement FEP sheet for the resin vat.

The SparkMaker has a total build area of around 4 x 2.2 x 5 inches (102 x 56 x 125 mm). The unit itself measures just under 11 inches (275 mm) tall with a diameter of 6.5 inches (165 mm). It’s compact, and looks quite neat on your desktop. Everything is enclosed in the large translucent red cover, though this isn’t fixed in any way, it just sits on the base.

Inside is a single moving axis that pulls the print bed into and out of the resin vat.

Underneath the resin vat is a small LCD screen, and underneath that, enclosed in the base, is the UV LED array that cures the resin.

Safety and Usage

If you’re concerned at this point about safety, then that might be wise. Despite the friendly exterior, this isn’t a complete starter kit considering the additional safety equipment and processing materials required. Nor would I recommend it for use with children. With a filament based printer, the only real worry is the very hot end; this has the potential for worse. That said, adults needn’t don’t worry too much – we’re not talking vats of acid that will burn your skin off here, just some gross sticky resin that’s horrible to try and remove. You also need to take extra precautions when disposing of waste resin. You shouldn’t wash it down the sink. If you leave any waste liquid resin in the sun for a while, it should solidify, and can be placed in the normal trash. In some places, it’s classified as hazardous waste, so do check local laws.

Also worth noting is that the film on the bottom of the resin tank is a consumable item, called an FEP sheet. It’s a special non-stick surface used to ensure the print can actually be pulled upwards after curing. For some reason, the fact that this needed to be replaced wasn’t actually outlined in the manual. They cost around $5 each from a third party supplier when bought in bulk, but there’s no precise definition for when you should replace it. Basically, if your prints start to lose definition, if the sheet is too hazy, if it has a scratch on it which will show upon your print, or if it’s got a crack, it needs to be replaced. In fact, the one supplied out of the box is pretty horrendous, and will result mostly in failed prints, so you may want to go buy a new one anyway.

After a few weeks of trying to print, ours is in dire need of being replaced already.

Just something else to add to that growing shopping list of essential accessories.

Also in terms of safety (yep, there’s more) – don’t power on at the plug socket until you’ve inserted the DC power jack into the unit, or you’ll get literally sparks. That’s right, the SparkMaker makes sparks when it’s plugged in. You couldn’t make this up if you tried.

Using the SparkMaker is (frustratingly) simple. The only method of getting a print onto the device is through the included SD card. It can only hold a single print at a time, so you’ll need to head back to a PC to transfer another file over. There is no USB connection or Ethernet port, and it can’t be interfaced with Octoprint. When you’re ready to print, fill the resin vat with your choice of resin, to approximately 1/4 inch (6mm) deep, put the cover on, and press the single button. The print bed will be lowered into the vat, and begin printing. Cleanup and post-processing is lot more effort, though.

If you want to slice your own models, you’ll need to download the Windows-only (at the time of writing, though a Mac OS version is promised) custom software, called SparkStudio. This includes settings specific to the printer and type of resins, and will output a “print.wow” file. The files are around 50-100MB in my experience, which is larger than your typical G-code file. G-Code files for FDM printers are really just text commands that describe movements of the print head. I suspect the SLA files are larger because they contain thousands of “images” for what must be displayed on the LCD screen and cured on each layer, effectively a little video file.

LCD-W: Water-Washable Resin

SparkMaker offers a range of resins at around $50-80 for 500g. The cost per gram is significantly higher than plastic filaments (at least five times as much), though the objects you print will be smaller. As mentioned, you’ll need 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the prints and resin vat after each print. However, SparkMaker have produced an alternative resin (LCD-W), which can be cleaned up with just water. This is a great option that avoids noxious smells and makes the whole experience a bit safer and cleaner. The prints made of LCD-W tend to be quite brittle, however, so it isn’t quite the ideal solution. The resins are clear, but can be tinted with special color mixes.

Print Quality

Sadly, after extensive testing with both LCD-W and LCD-E (“Elastic”) resin, using either the pre-sliced models that SparkMaker offer or custom sliced using their software, we were unable to get a fully successful print out of the device. This is as far as we got with a Hero Forge sample mini – you can see the supports failed much earlier, so the rest of the model didn’t really have a chance:

The dragon head on the right is the only part of a larger SparkMaker sample that we could salvage.

We did the calibration multiple times, followed some of the print guides for custom slicing settings that should be more successful (things like layer cure time affect it significantly), but the prints either broke themselves part of the way through, or ended up as congealed masses of flat resin:

I should say that the partial prints we did get were incredible. For wargaming / RPG miniatures, jewelry, or other highly detailed small models, SLA printing is clearly the way forward.

Should You Buy a SparkMaker?

The quality of prints you can get out of the Spark Maker are stunning. When it works, that is. If you’re serious about printing little custom miniature and models with insane levels of detail, a resin printer is the only way.

Unfortunately, I just can’t recommend the SparkMaker – not at the moment anyway. The closed Facebook group is full of posts from people experiencing similar frustrations. Those that have had success appear to be both replacing the FEP film out of the box, and doing a modification to bring the LCD screen closer to the bed. The latest announcement indicates that SparkMaker have made some hardware improvements for pre-orders that haven’t yet shipping, so that’s a good sign the issues have been identified. If you order now, you may not face the same problems. However, we can obviously only report on our experience.

In a break to the norm, we won’t be running a giveaway for the SparkMaker: you’d spend more on consumables and accessories than you’d get out of it. I’ll be following the modding process, replacing the FEP sheet, keeping an eye on software updates, and trying again. If results improve, I’ll update this review accordingly.

SparkMaker Review: A Revolutionary $300 Resin 3D Printer… But It Doesn’t Actually Work syndicated from https://mopishblog.wordpress.com/

[grassroutes]

SparkMaker Review: A Revolutionary $300 Resin 3D Printer… But It Doesn’t Actually Work

Our verdict of the SparkMaker: We couldn't get a successful print out of it, but with a few modifications, you might. There's no doubt that SLA printers produce fantastic quality prints... when they work. 210

The SparkMaker began life as a $99 Kickstarter, which I was understandably skeptical of. Not only was that a ludicrously cheap price for a 3D printer, it was absolutely preposterous for an SLA 3D printer – which was previously the domain of much more expensive industrial printers. It’s now in production, shipping to backers, and available for just shy of $300 from OGadget for everyone else – but is it worth it?

What is an SLA / Resin Printer?

Until now, most consumer grade 3D printers have been FDM – or Fused Deposition Modelling. They use a raw material of plastic spaghetti-like filament, heat it up to around 200C, then push it out and let it cool down in the shape you want. The resolution of an FDM printer can go up to around 50 microns, though this can be improved with smaller hot end mods. There’s a huge range of printers of FDM printers to choose from, suitable for all levels of experience.

An SLA (or StereoLithography Apparatus) printer uses photosensitive resin as the raw material (a liquid), which solidifies when exposed to UV light. This can come either from a moving UV laser, or in the case of the SparkMaker, UV LEDs and an LCD screen to mask off each layer. As the print solidifies, it’s pulled out of the resin tank.

The reason why SLA printing is so exciting is that the quality can be so much higher: up to 10 microns on the SparkMaker.

What’s in the Box?

In the SparkMaker box you’ll find:

The printer, with red plastic cover.

Hex tool, for levelling and unscrewing the resin vat.

Power supply and appropriate IEC cable for your country.

Your choice of resin, if you chose the sample set.

At the very least, you will also need to purchase:

Gloves. Don’t touch resin, it’s horrible sticky stuff.

A metal spatula, for removing the print.

99% Isopropyl cleaning liquid, for any resins other than LCD-W.

You should also consider:

A syringe, for removing leftover resin back to the pot. You can just pour it back, but it’s a bit messy.

UV curing light, such as those used for nail art. You can also cure in the sun, but it’ll take longer.

A replacement FEP sheet for the resin vat.

The SparkMaker has a total build area of around 4 x 2.2 x 5 inches (102 x 56 x 125 mm). The unit itself measures just under 11 inches (275 mm) tall with a diameter of 6.5 inches (165 mm). It’s compact, and looks quite neat on your desktop. Everything is enclosed in the large translucent red cover, though this isn’t fixed in any way, it just sits on the base.

Inside is a single moving axis that pulls the print bed into and out of the resin vat.

Underneath the resin vat is a small LCD screen, and underneath that, enclosed in the base, is the UV LED array that cures the resin.

Safety and Usage

If you’re concerned at this point about safety, then that might be wise. Despite the friendly exterior, this isn’t a complete starter kit considering the additional safety equipment and processing materials required. Nor would I recommend it for use with children. With a filament based printer, the only real worry is the very hot end; this has the potential for worse. That said, adults needn’t don’t worry too much – we’re not talking vats of acid that will burn your skin off here, just some gross sticky resin that’s horrible to try and remove. You also need to take extra precautions when disposing of waste resin. You shouldn’t wash it down the sink. If you leave any waste liquid resin in the sun for a while, it should solidify, and can be placed in the normal trash. In some places, it’s classified as hazardous waste, so do check local laws.

Also worth noting is that the film on the bottom of the resin tank is a consumable item, called an FEP sheet. It’s a special non-stick surface used to ensure the print can actually be pulled upwards after curing. For some reason, the fact that this needed to be replaced wasn’t actually outlined in the manual. They cost around $5 each from a third party supplier when bought in bulk, but there’s no precise definition for when you should replace it. Basically, if your prints start to lose definition, if the sheet is too hazy, if it has a scratch on it which will show upon your print, or if it’s got a crack, it needs to be replaced. In fact, the one supplied out of the box is pretty horrendous, and will result mostly in failed prints, so you may want to go buy a new one anyway.

After a few weeks of trying to print, ours is in dire need of being replaced already.

Just something else to add to that growing shopping list of essential accessories.

Also in terms of safety (yep, there’s more) – don’t power on at the plug socket until you’ve inserted the DC power jack into the unit, or you’ll get literally sparks. That’s right, the SparkMaker makes sparks when it’s plugged in. You couldn’t make this up if you tried.

Using the SparkMaker is (frustratingly) simple. The only method of getting a print onto the device is through the included SD card. It can only hold a single print at a time, so you’ll need to head back to a PC to transfer another file over. There is no USB connection or Ethernet port, and it can’t be interfaced with Octoprint. When you’re ready to print, fill the resin vat with your choice of resin, to approximately 1/4 inch (6mm) deep, put the cover on, and press the single button. The print bed will be lowered into the vat, and begin printing. Cleanup and post-processing is lot more effort, though.

If you want to slice your own models, you’ll need to download the Windows-only (at the time of writing, though a Mac OS version is promised) custom software, called SparkStudio. This includes settings specific to the printer and type of resins, and will output a “print.wow” file. The files are around 50-100MB in my experience, which is larger than your typical G-code file. G-Code files for FDM printers are really just text commands that describe movements of the print head. I suspect the SLA files are larger because they contain thousands of “images” for what must be displayed on the LCD screen and cured on each layer, effectively a little video file.

LCD-W: Water-Washable Resin

SparkMaker offers a range of resins at around $50-80 for 500g. The cost per gram is significantly higher than plastic filaments (at least five times as much), though the objects you print will be smaller. As mentioned, you’ll need 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the prints and resin vat after each print. However, SparkMaker have produced an alternative resin (LCD-W), which can be cleaned up with just water. This is a great option that avoids noxious smells and makes the whole experience a bit safer and cleaner. The prints made of LCD-W tend to be quite brittle, however, so it isn’t quite the ideal solution. The resins are clear, but can be tinted with special color mixes.

Print Quality

Sadly, after extensive testing with both LCD-W and LCD-E (“Elastic”) resin, using either the pre-sliced models that SparkMaker offer or custom sliced using their software, we were unable to get a fully successful print out of the device. This is as far as we got with a Hero Forge sample mini – you can see the supports failed much earlier, so the rest of the model didn’t really have a chance:

The dragon head on the right is the only part of a larger SparkMaker sample that we could salvage.

We did the calibration multiple times, followed some of the print guides for custom slicing settings that should be more successful (things like layer cure time affect it significantly), but the prints either broke themselves part of the way through, or ended up as congealed masses of flat resin:

I should say that the partial prints we did get were incredible. For wargaming / RPG miniatures, jewelry, or other highly detailed small models, SLA printing is clearly the way forward.

Should You Buy a SparkMaker?

The quality of prints you can get out of the Spark Maker are stunning. When it works, that is. If you’re serious about printing little custom miniature and models with insane levels of detail, a resin printer is the only way.

Unfortunately, I just can’t recommend the SparkMaker – not at the moment anyway. The closed Facebook group is full of posts from people experiencing similar frustrations. Those that have had success appear to be both replacing the FEP film out of the box, and doing a modification to bring the LCD screen closer to the bed. The latest announcement indicates that SparkMaker have made some hardware improvements for pre-orders that haven’t yet shipping, so that’s a good sign the issues have been identified. If you order now, you may not face the same problems. However, we can obviously only report on our experience.

In a break to the norm, we won’t be running a giveaway for the SparkMaker: you’d spend more on consumables and accessories than you’d get out of it. I’ll be following the modding process, replacing the FEP sheet, keeping an eye on software updates, and trying again. If results improve, I’ll update this review accordingly.

SparkMaker Review: A Revolutionary $300 Resin 3D Printer… But It Doesn’t Actually Work posted first on grassroutespage.blogspot.com

[nathandanderson]

New Arrivals

Check out our new items!

ABN LETTER & NUMBER STAMP SET STEEL FOR ENGRAVING

Available in 2 Sizes: This crafted Letter & Number Stamp Set is available in 1/4″ Inch and 1/8″ Inch sizes; Large Set has a 6-millimeter diameter shaft and 1/4-inch high characters and Small Set has has a 3-millimeter diameter shaft and 1/8-inch high characters

Durable: Drop forged, heat treated CR-V steel

Comprehensive Stamps: This set includes 36 punches marked A-Z, “&” and 0-8 with a 6 turned upside down to lie used as a 9

Convenient Storage: Organized in a durable plastic protective case

Well-Suited for Most Surfaces: Can be used on both hard and soft-wood, aluminum, and most metal or plastic surfaces

 Order here! 

ABN 3 PIECE 1/2″ INCH DRIVE HEX BIT SOCKET SET WITH HEAT-TREATED CV STEEL

3 Widely Used Bits and Sockets: This 3 Piece 1/2” Drive Hex Bit Socket Set is available in Metric and Standard/SAE sizing

Sustainable: Each drive is tamperproof

Superior Torque: Chrome vanadium steel makes these bits meet or in most cases exceed torque specifications

Durable: Heat-treated chrome vanadium steel makes the sockets strong and long-lasting

Not Excessive: These are simply bits and sockets without the extras you already have or don’t need

Order here! 

ABN 10 PIECE XZN TRIPLE SQUARE SPLINE BIT SOCKET SET WITH HEAT-TREATED STEEL

Wide Variety to Meet All Needs: These 10 XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Sockets include M8, M9, M10, M12, M14, M16, M18, HW6, HW5, and HW4

Sustainable: Drives are tamperproof

Superior Torque: chrome vanadium steel makes these bits meet or in most cases exceed torque specifications

Durable: Heat-treated chrome vanadium steel makes the sockets strong and long-lasting

Convenient Storage: These bit sockets are easily accessed and organized because they come in a heavy-duty plastic carrying case that is lightweight and can easily go anywhere with you or fit on any shelf or storage area

Order here!

  ABN 60 PIECE TORX STAR SOCKET SET WITH CASE

Superior Torque: This ABN 60 Piece Torx Star Socket Set is constructed with chrome vanadium steel with mirror polish which makes these sockets meet or in most cases exceed torque specifications

Durable: S2 steel makes the bits strong and long-lasting

Corrosion-Resistant: Chrome plated finish

Convenient Storage: Easily accessed and organized because they come in a heavy-duty, plastic, lockable carrying case that can easily go anywhere with you or fit on any shelf or storage area

Contents: 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2″ sockets for all of the following – 14 Piece Tamper Proof External Star (Torx) Sockets, 17 Piece Star (Torx) Bit Sockets, 17 Piece Tamper Proof Star (Torx) Bit, 12 Piece Star Plus (Torx Plus) Bit Sockets

Order here!

ABN 4-IN-1 WIRE SERVICE PLIERS CRIMPER FOR ALL WIRING NEEDS

Gripping Nose: This 4-in-1 Wire Service Pliers Crimper has a feature to pull, twist, bend, and shape

Crimper: Crimps 12-20 AWG insulated and non-insulated wire

Stripper: Strips 12-20 AWG wire

Cutter: Ability to make cuts both above and below pivot

Comfortable Hand Grip: Cushioned grips improve dexterity and comfort

Order here!

  ABN INTERCHANGEABLE RATCHET CRIMPER FOR DEUTSCH TERMINALS WITH 6 DIE

Versatile: This Interchangeable Ratchet Crimper for Deutsch Terminals includes 6 interchangeable dies to be used on cable, deutz, electrical, spark plugs, and more: K1 AWG 14/12; K2 AWG 10/12 and 5/6mm; K3 AWG 18/16/14; K4 AWG 20/18/16; K5 AWG 20/18-16; K6 AWG 16/14/12

Specifications: Adjustable tension to improve leverage and ergonomic gripping handles to reduce fatigue and stress on your hands

Design: Ratchet action provides secure crimps every time

Durable: Crafted with hardened steel frame for flex-free durability

Case: Comes in a heavy-duty plastic case with exterior latch and interior slots for each die and crimper tool for simple, organized storage

Order here!

ABN WRENCH HOLDER FOR UP TO 1-1/4-INCH AND 30MM FOR WALL MOUNT OR DRAWER

Time Saver: The ABN 12& 15 Piece Wrench Holders allow for easy one-handed engagement and removal of wrenches

Organizer: Can hang on a wall, pegboard, side of a mobile tool cart, or used in a drawer

Perfect for a Variety of Wrenches: Holds 1/4-Inch to 1-1/4-Inch and 6mm to 30mm wrenches

Easy to Keep Clean: Fuel and solvent resistant

Durable: Composed of high-impact plastic

Order here!

ABN DAMAGED SCREW REMOVER AND EXTRACTOR SET – 5 PIECE

Durable: This Damaged Screw Remover and Extractor Set – 5 Piece has heavy duty S2 hardened steel construction for strength and longevity

5 Piece Set: Comes as a 5-piece set of assorted most common screw extractor sizes

Easy to Use: Will remove any damaged, stripped, rusted, broken, or stuck screws from any wood or metal surface

Versatile: Works on wood and machine screws, as well as flat, hex, or painted over screws

Convenient Storage: Organized in a durable plastic protective case that will easily fit into a toolbox, drawer, bag, pouch, or even your pocket

Order here!

New Arrivals published first on https://autobodynowblog.wordpress.com

[nonsparkingtools]

Daman | Non Sparking Socket | 1/4" Inch , Manufacturers

Daman | Non Sparking Socket | 1/4″ Inch , Manufacturers

Daman non sparking socket set manufacturers in india.

It suitable for use where space is narrow or deep concavity to tighten or loosen bolts and nuts.

Non Sparking Socket NumberSLBe-CuAl-CuNumberSLBe-CuAl-Cummmmgginchmmgg102-44251110102-1002May-32251110102-4.54.5251110102-1004Mar-16251110102-55251211102-1006Jul-32251110102-5.55.5251211102-100801-Apr251110102-66251312102-1010Sep-32251110102-7…

[nonsparkingtools]

As per norms and safety audits prescribed by Oil Industry Safety Directorate (OISD), under the aegis of Ministry of Petroleum and Natural Gas, Government of India, all industries using Petroleum , LPG, PNG, LNG, other Gas, other inflammable chemicals and materials, must use Non Sparking Sledge Hammers, Anti spark Ball Pein Hammers, Non sparking Cut off hammers, Non Sparking Scaling Hammers, Non Sparking Club hammers, Non Sparking Testing hammers. Use of Non sparking and anti spark hammers reduce risk inherent risk of fire within the industry.