taycofftoadventure - Tumblr blog

[taycofftoadventure]

Utah Park Road Trip

What a year. I’ve taken a hiatus from the blog during 2020 for obvious reasons: pandemic travel is a challenge and not encouraged. It was hard to decide whether to venture out at all frankly. But after a a new gig, I desperately needed a getaway- so we took a week-long road trip to Utah. Our goal was to try to avoid people and get into nature. I’m so grateful for the escape. In the end, my soul really needed to go. Needed the break. Needed the change of scenery. I’ve gotten a lot of folks asking me what we did, where we went, so I decided to dust off the blog and share with folks our itinerary. 

We traveled with surface cleaner, our masks, etc. We took precautions where appropriate. It wasn’t always easy, but I felt relatively safe. We stayed in hotels and cabins- camping is totally an option, but traveling in August meant very hot weather and we wanted the AC. But every place we went had camping options if that is more your speed. Also many of the places we stayed, we could enter the room from an external door. It felt safer generally than riding an elevator or being in narrow hotel halls. We also didn’t have maid service during our stays to limit who was in the room. But I encourage everyone to be smart about whatever they chose to do. It’s hard to control all elements. We did the best we could.

You may wonder why we went to Springdale and THEN Bryce and THEN back to Zion- well, cost (the Lodge in the park was cheaper midweek) and avoiding people. We aimed to hit the Narrows hike on a Wednesday- which was less crowded.

Day 1 and 2 - Springdale, UT

We drove from LA. We opted not to stop in Vegas because they have a lot of coronavirus cases. Without traffic, it’s a six hour or so drive to beautiful Springdale, UT- the gateway to Zion National Park. We stayed at the Majestic View Lodge at the edge of town for two nights. Springdale itself is a gem in the canyon between red rock cliffs towering above.

Zion National Park has a shuttle service with limited tickets to access certain portions of the park (**check for their policies regularly/they changed during our planning and we almost didn’t score tickets). But there are some sites that don’t require a shuttle. We hit those first. After a breakfast at Deep Creek Coffee (really good/we went twice!), we ventured up the scenic drive of the park. Surrounded by giants, we pulled off and took photos as we headed to our first hike on the Canyon Overlook Trail. It’s a moderately challenging hike, but not long. You can do it rather quickly, but we definitely stopped to take many a photo. You’re rewarded with quite a view. Some portion of the trail was narrow- so bring your mask (always bring your mask). After, we cooled down at the hotel pool until it got busier. 

Before dinner, we rode bikes through Springdale to the Pa’rus Trail (paved so it’s not hard to bike). It was mighty glorious as the sun set below The Watchman. The grill at the Majestic View Lodge did have really good ribeye for take-out. 

Day 3-5 Bryce Canyon National Park

The next day, we headed to Bryce National Park for two nights. What a special place. Powerful hoodoos dot the canyon. I felt like I was immersed in a giant sand castle. It was hot when we went. There was no water in the canyon, so take more water than you think you need if you plan to hike beyond the rim. 

Our first hike was the Navajo Trail to the Peekaboo Loop and then up iconic Wall Street. It’s strenuous. If you want something lighter, do just Navajo Trail- but even that has dramatic elevation gain. Also, you have the challenge of Bryce’s naturally high elevation. The most common medical issues folks have in Bryce are elevation related problems. The number two problem; ankle issues (so wear supportive shoes) because the trails are steep. Despite being hard, it was JAW-DROPPINGLY beautiful. No photos need a filter. Go slow, take breaks, take photos, and stay hydrated. 

The next day we woke up early and hit The Fairyland Loop. It’s the longest hike in the park, but you’ll have no issues social distancing. Bring lots of water and lunch- but it’s not as hard as Peekaboo/Navajo. Go early to avoid midday sun. We started at Sunrise point and did it counter clockwise. We liked this for a few reasons- our climb back out of the canyon was shaded by an occasional tree and the last two miles of the hike was the much easier Rim Trail in the hotter part of the day (which does have some climbing itself, but at least you’re almost to your car by the end)... and also I loved ending the hike near the General Store for a little lemonade and fruit. 

Closer to sunset, we checked out Rainbow Point and Natural Bridge. If you skip Peekaboo, Bryce Point will give you a taste of what you missed from above. 

The town of Bryce itself was only established ten years ago. Not too much there. We grabbed picnic/breakfast food in Springdale and then got take out in Tropic for dinners. Stone Hearth Grille was delicious and beautifully situated- I can tell it would be a great place to eat in when this pandemic is over.  IDK Barbecue was also really tasty. 

The last morning in Bryce we hit the Queens Garden Trail- the most popular trail. But you can see why, it’s not-to-be-missed gorgeous and it’s the “easiest” trail into the canyon (and by easiest, I still mean it’s steep). We opted to hit it on a Tuesday and found it wasn’t too hard to avoid folks. I did wear my mask more (i really dig my Variant Malibu mask btw). 

Day 6-8 Zion National Park

After the hike, we headed back to Zion. On this stretch, we stayed at Zion Lodge in a cabin at the Xanterra run hotel in the park. It was worth it because you get a drive-on into the park where only shuttles can go and it’s great to be in the midst of the action (the only caveat is, you can only drive as far as the lodge). There’s also the bonus reality that if you stay at the lodge, the shuttle times are irrelevant, They let you on whenever, you just need a ticket for the day. Alternatively, you can ride uphill to the Narrows by bike.

We rode the shuttle once to go to the famous Narrows hike. We were very much rewarded for our early morning- there were very uncrowded stretches. What a colossally special experience. Almost religious- I felt like I was in a giant natural cathedral. The early morning light gifted us with such dynamic and extraordinary sights. I’ll never forget them. Besides snacks and water, I highly recommend a hiking pole and neoprene socks. Just buy them ahead of time- but you can rent them in town for the same cost. We were glad to just get started early and not have to deal with rentals. The rocks are slippery so mind your step. I also felt the current made it more precarious.  Be sure to check the water quality and for flash flood warnings. Levels were low, but due to little rain there was a bacterial overgrowth harmful to humans and animals. So sadly, we couldn’t submerge (or ingest)- but I felt it was shallow enough to maintain safety. Avoid the algae mats. 

As we wrapped up the hike six hours later, more people hit the trail- the mask was up and this was the most congested I felt all trip! But the ranger at the end of the hike said that actually, this was nothing compared to pre-covid. People used to wait hours for a shuttle... so thanks pandemic, we didn’t wait long. 

In the evenings, we gazed at the Milky Way on the green lawn filled with deer and tried to spy meteors showering by (well, more like a trickle- we saw two between us) and hung out on our cabin porch drinking wine and playing cards. Staying in the park was peaceful. 

Additionally, some of the popular hikes are an easy stroll from the lodge. It would have been possible to avoid the shuttle altogether if we weren’t intending to do the Narrows. We walked on an evening stroll up the trail to the Grotto picnic area where the Angel’s Landing Hike begins (the top is closed at present for Covid). Across the street from the lodge is the trailhead for the Emerald Pools. We would have made the trek but the pools are apparently very low right now. Some things for us to check out next time!

Day 9-11 Sundance, UT

After Zion, we headed north for two nights in the mountains outside of Salt Lake City. I was craving green and trees for sure. We stayed at the Sundance Resort but if you’re looking to save some coin, there’s plenty of camping off the narrow mountain Alpine Scenic Byway. The mountain pass is closed in the winter, but right now it’s dotted with gorgeous still-snow dusted peaks and the largest Aspen grove I’ve ever seen.

There were a lot of hikes in the area, but in the warm heat of the summer, we opted for Stewart Falls. There are a few access points- if you don’t stay at Sundance, there is a trailhead in Aspen Grove. If you stay at the resort, you get a free ski-lift ticket (or you can buy one). We took the scenic chalet to Ray’s Summit  (you can go further up to the top for a cold beverage and what-looked-like-delicious nachos). From Ray’s Summit, you can hike a lovely but sometimes steep trail down to the falls. We then took the trail back to our lodging from the falls. Google maps was helpful in navigating the narrow trails. 

We did shell out for the zip line tour which boasts one of the longest rides in the US. It was exhilarating. You fly from peak to peak and down the mountain. Definitely grab a bottle of water to take with you- it took us about 2 hours to do it all... but can take up to 3. Luckily our group was just the two of us, so it went pretty fast and I was thankful to not have to wait for anyone. 

The food at Sundance was excellent with lots of outdoor seating and picnic tables- so it’s easy to get a fine dining meal and a swell spot to eat it in. Everything from the breakfast sandwich to the salmon to the pork chops was really good. 

Day 12-13 St. George, UT

On our way back to Los Angeles, we drove back south again and stayed in St. George- not far outside of Zion. We stayed at a lovely renovated hotel Inn of the Cliff- bonus points for beautiful view and pool. Pro-tip, if you want the pool ALL to yourself, Sunday morning seemed to be the winner (because I think the community is all at church). Also for breakfast, skip the long lines and go to Tia’s Artesian Bakery. We picked up some delectable food ahead of the drive home.

In the end, I was so grateful for this trip. It felt incredibly long (even though it was just weekend to weekend). Getting into nature, surrounded by awesome views, and testing my body- but also having down-time- felt crucial to getting the rejuvenation I needed. On long, popular hike days, we rose early- but almost every other day, we slept in. The balance felt right. We were grateful to pack a cooler and have snacks and cold drinks on long drives or hot days. 

Travel safe. Stay healthy. Take care of your spirit. Go find nature.

Photos by Zach Lupetin and Taylor Coffman

[taycofftoadventure]

Two Days in Barcelona

Much like the small bites, or tapas plates,  if you don’t have a lot of days, Barcelona is possible in a small bite trip.

Once you’ve booked your flight, immediately get your tickets online to see Gaudí’s greatest hits. If time is short, you don’t want to waste it in line. And these places WILL have lines. Antoni Gaudí was a Spanish architect known for Catalan Modernism and his structures are part of Barcelona’s identity. Take a taxi and book a morning walk through Park Güell. It’s a series of structures and gardens around Gaudí’s actual home. Bold and vibrant, and surely full of tourists, it’s a great way to walk off breakfast and immerse yourself in Barcelona at its most imaginative.

Once you’ve had your fill of wandering the park, if you’ve got good shoes walk downhill to the Basílica de la Sagrada Família about 20 minutes away. You have failed Barcelona if you skip this gem of a cathedral. Poetic, inspiring, and a continual work-in-progress, this Gaudí masterpiece may be the most beautiful cathedral I’ve ever seen. Take your time. The details inside and out are remarkable. They hope to complete the cathedral soon in 2026, but don’t wait- watching the construction sparks the imagination like a metaphor for humanity. Do the audio tour and do elevator up the tower (we did the Nativity side). Don’t scrimp here- it’s jaw-dropping.

Skip all the lame tourist options for lunch near the cathedral, but not too far is the delicious Típic i català specializing in Catalonian food from the region. You can rest your heels in the cozy ambiance.

After a likely afternoon nap, I recommend the Gothic Quarter. This area begs to be wandered, so don’t miss it. Hit different bars for a tapas plate and drink- there’s a wealth to chose from. While the architecture is medieval, the bars are some of the trendiest in town. Start for tapas at Bar La Plata. They’ve been serving the same dishes since 1945 in it’s cramped but lively corner. Be bold and squeeze up to the bar for your order. I recommend the delicious pescadito frito washed down with the house wine from the barrel. Nearby but less mobbed, try El Callejon.

The next day, skip the tourist trap that is Las Ramblas, but do head to La Boqueria with an empty belly. It’s a large open market with many delicious treats. We grabbed a cone of Iberico ham and waited for an empty bar stool at El Quim. Rich, delicious, and fresh options – que rico!

If you have extra time and aren’t tired of Gaudí, Casa Batlló is a celebrated gem to tour.

Hopefully these spots will serve as an appetizer for your return to this magical, dynamic city. 

[taycofftoadventure]

Road Trip Through the UK Part 2: Scotland

Scotland is a wild and magical destination. Even more beautiful and mountainous than I imagined- the land in this region is a feast for the eyes and the soul. I was so thrilled to get to explore the country by the roadside. I only wish I’d more time. There is a wealth of things to do and see.

We drove over the border of Great Britain and headed toward the Scottish capital of Edinburgh. Still early spring, we landed on the Easter holiday, but the town was vibrant. Once parked at our hotel, we eagerly headed on foot toward the Royal Mile- the definitive main drag. People were bustling about the famous Witchery and sights, but we dove off the beaten path down a small passageway between the buildings to dine at The Devil’s Advocate . Great gastropub food but very Scottish, with a good whisky selection. We definitely warmed up and had plenty to walk off, as we headed to the iconic Edinburgh Castle. The castle is a must-do and it’s chock full of royal treachery, intrigue, and history. We really enjoyed seeing where the royals lived as well as the jail in the castle depths that held American prisoners of war. The walls speak volumes via the etchings of the prisoners or in the mysterious bones discovered inside. Don’t miss the Soldier’s Dog Cemetery, which takes up prime real estate with a view of the city. It’s a bit of heart in a place that feels a pretty dark in its history.

After the castle, we wandered down the Royal Mile to St. Giles Cathedral. We took in their Easter concert while marveling at one the most beautiful cathedral ceilings I’ve come across. Founded in 1124, the church is quite busy and offers tours and music regularly. Following a much needed nap, we had excellent seafood and service at Fishers in the City .

Driving into the Highlands of Scotland is unforgettable- but be warned, not a ton of gas stations on our route. Be sure to fill your tank when you can. As Macbeth fans, we headed toward Inverness. It’s conveniently by Loch Ness, which I’ve always wanted to see since childhood. No Nessie sightings, but it’s a beautiful region. We drove by Castle Urquhart and took some photos without going in- I think as castles go, it’s a little more limited. Along our route, we did stop by Eilean Donan Castle dating back to the 13th century. It’s a much more picturesque fully restored castle stop with tours. It’s on an island where three lochs (or lakes) meet, so it’s a prime location.

We traveled west to the great Isle of Skye. It feels like the edge of the world. A rugged landscape surrounded by wide waterways- this region feels like it’s the land of giants. We stayed at Sconser Lodge, a former clan hunting lodge built in 1871 that sits a few yards from the water. The accommodations are lovely, and it’s run by a kind family. The pub is quite cozy, the whisky is on point, and if you miss the fresh scallops (fished right outside)- I’ll be sad.  

The quaint village of Portee is nearby and we drove through on our way to see the Old Man of Storr. The view from the hike is sublime as you go up the rocky hillside of the Storr. The trail isn’t particularly easy, so bring your water and good shoes- but it’s worth it. The land feels unchanged from the past and the view is enchanting and primordial. As you drive around, keep an eye out for the Highland cows that are especially bred to endure the cold with their long hair.

The next morning, we hiked The Fairy Pools on the edge of the Black Cuillins. The cold pools are a vibrant blue-green and look like portals to Narnia. There is talk of them being swimmable in warmer months. The trail meanders through a series of waterfalls and its rocky landscape is quite dramatic. They shot the Michael Fassbender Macbeth nearby.

As you head back down south, keep your eyes peeled for the Hogwarts Express or the Glenfinnan Viaduct portion of the railway. It’s located just outside Fort William and there are some trails in the area to snap a good photo. Nearby, we stopped for lunch in Glencoe and got a glimpse of the great, snow-capped Ben Nevis. It’s the highest peak in the UK and attracts hikers and sightseers.

If you have the time, Glasgow is a worthy stop. We missed it on our trip sadly, but I do hear wonderful things- especially about the people of Glasgow. Glaswegians say the town is a people’s city with amazing music, shopping, and architecture.

Scotland is enchanting and I fell utterly in love. If you venture there, don’t miss the Highlands where there seems to be more mountains than people. Driving through the rugged landscape allowed us a great deal of freedom and, while it’s tricky to drive on the other side of the road, it was worth it to reach these far-flung places. You’ll feel a long, long way from home, but that’s the idea- right?

[taycofftoadventure]

Road Trip Through The UK Part 1: Great Britain

Traveling by car is an amazing way to see the UK. I had an unforgettable adventure with my fiancé (now husband) road tripping through England and Scotland. “Tripping” is apropos because driving on the other side of the road is an adventure in itself. It is doable with care, focus, and patience from everyone in the vehicle. You do get used to it but be sure to stay aware and safe. It may not be for everyone, but you gain so much in flexibility, comfort, and independence. For us, it was worth the adjustment and, at times, momentary stress.

We rented a vehicle in London and embarked south to the Seven Sisters on the English Channel. We’ve always wanted to see white cliffs. Dover is an option, but we had heard wondrous things about this alternative. The Seven Sisters is a series of chalk cliffs pitching up from the beach. We loved the view from coastguard cottages to see them in their full glory. It’s a perfect picnic spot after the drive.

Nearby, you’ll find Brighton. I understand why Lydia wanted to go to Brighton with the regimentals in Austen’s Pride and Prejudice. It’s England at its beachiest.  A good option for a night’s stay if you’re able. Brighton is a seaside resort town with a vibrant cultural life. There’s a picturesque pier and lots of  options for seafood-lovers.

The next day, if you have the time, Stonehenge is on the way to Bath. Two famous tourist stops as you head northward. Warning- Stonehenge can be very busy. You can see if from the road if you want a glimpse. It will take up a chunk of time, but you can pay and take a very long walk to the ruins. Next, we stayed in the idyllic Cotswolds. This rural area of south-central England features rolling hills and grassland where you can find thatched medieval villages, churches, and farms. It has an easy vibe and with a great food culture. We stayed in Stow-in-the-Wold which is a perfect option with a beautiful high street full of top notch shops and dining. I also love St. Edwards Church where trees are becoming one with the architecture. The Bell at the Stow is a great pub with delicious English food. We also dined well at the The Porch House which has been welcoming customers since 947 AD.

One of my favorite parts of the Cotswolds was wandering through the countryside. It’s just a glorious place to see a bit of nature and discover the land. In the UK, there are public rights to walk on private land- so find a map of paths and get into the meadows on foot. It can require a sanctioned climb over a fence and a compass (aka a fully charged phone), but it’s quite fun to try to find your way. We walked from Stow to Bourton-On-The-Water and really had an great adventure. It was perfect to arrive the picturesque town on a babbling waterway and have a baked good and a warm tea to reward us for the journey. We perused the shops and the model train museum before venturing back to Stow on a regional bus.

The next day, we headed northward and stopped in Stratford-Upon-Avon so I could scratch my Shakespeare-loving itch. Possibly a bit of a tourist trap, it was fun to pop in for lunch and peruse the Bard’s hometown. 

After, we were off to the beautiful Lake District. I could’ve spent more days in this region made famous by Beatrix Potter. It was breathtaking- where water and mountains collide. We stayed in Glenridding for a quieter spot on the shores of beautiful Ullswater Lake, but I recommend Keswick for more of a proper town. Keswick has options for lodging, culture, and dining on Derwent Water Lake- where you’ll find boat tours and a theatre on the water’s edge.

Near Keswick and Glenridding, don’t miss Castlerigg Stone Circle from 3000 BC. It’s free to enter and offers panoramic vistas of the area. If you love Neolithic structures, it’s a great one. You can walk right up to it and commune with the past. Another great little hike is the Aira Force Water Fall. It doesn’t take too long and feels utterly magical. I feel certain fairies live there.

It’s tough to leave this region where peaks and lakes make every view a winner, but Scotland lies ahead... to be continued!

[taycofftoadventure]

Traveling On A Budget!

Hi all!

Have you ever just googled flights to dream destinations, saw the price, and said NEVERMIND!? Well, I’m here to help... because that was me, until after many trips, I learned with a little ingenuity and flexibility, traveling for less was incredibly doable. 

Check out my pal Edrina’s blog for my guest post on how to save on your next trip!

Accounting By Edrina 

Hope it helps you!

Taylor

[taycofftoadventure]

A Few Days in London

There’s so much to do in London- especially if you’ve never been. But pack some comfy shoes, get up early, and you can fit in quite a lot in just a few days. Steeped in history, I loved visiting this magical city. Everything felt generally accessible without a vehicle-so much is just off the Underground metro train where stops are pretty abundant and accessible. 

If you need to shake off your jetlag, an evening walk across Westminster Bridge is awfully picturesque. You’ll feel fully immersed with Big Ben lit up at night and the Thames glistening beside you. It was a mighty dreamy way to start the trip after a lifetime of imagining these sites.

We stayed in Notting Hill and it’s idyllic with beautiful homes, shops, and eateries.  As long as you can walk to the train from your lodging, you’re near it all.  In that neighborhood, we popped in for Thai food at the indoor garden of a pub that is Churchill Arms. It’s spilling over with plants and quite the sight. Up the block, stop for dessert at Panache Chocolate shop. It offers truly wonderful hot chocolate and goodies.  

During the day, you must hit a market in London- so do take a stroll to the famous Portabello market where all sorts of magical items (a la Bedknobs and Broomsticks!) await, and you can see the famous Travel Book Shop (now disguised as just a tourist stop) where Notting Hill was shot. In the neighborhood, say hi to the new crop of young royals who live at Kensington Palace which is around the corner. Princess Diana lived there as well and it features exhibits and tours. The gardens are a notable stop in this lovely part of town.

If you’re short on time, a long weekend (or three days if you’re going midweek) would fit this itinerary. I recommend packing a solid day out and about. After a proper British breakfast at your hotel to fuel up, hit the underground and emerge near St. Paul’s Cathedral.  If you loved Mary Poppins, definitely don’t skip the cathedral. 

Then just down the street, cross to the South bank on the Millennium Bridge. It’s a gorgeous suspension bridge that will drop you right at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and the Tate Modern. Snag a tour in the Globe if you’d like to see the rebuilt theatre and exhibits that give context to Elizabethan England and Shakespeare’s time. If you must wait to get in, grab tickets and then check out an art exhibit of your choice at the Tate Modern in the interim. It would take a day to see the whole thing, but snagging a little exhibit or two is always a good idea.

Then I recommend grabbing a snack and walking along the Thames to cross back over and head into the Westminster Abbey. Most spots along there are a bit of London tourist traps- but you might enjoy the London Eye and some of the street life. I spotted Dr. Who’s callbox. But the real gem for me, was Westminster Abbey. You may want to get your tickets ahead of time. This was my favorite stop- so much history, walking through the hallowed halls where great coronations and burials are held. It closes early in the afternoon, so don’t get there too late. After, you’re right by the inconspicuous 10 Downing Street, the very conspicuous Buckingham Palace, the Churchill War Rooms, and St. James’s Park.

At this point, you’re hungry I bet. We loved popping in for Indian food at Dishoom in Covent Garden. Indian food in London is a must do and this place was delicious. When you’re done wandering Covent Garden, head to Gordon’s Wine Bar for an after-dinner drink in a 19th century Dickensian cave-like bar. Enjoy a toast before heading off to see a show in the West End. I urge you to see a show- it’s a lovely way to rest your heels after a day of touring around. There’s a ton of shows to choose from in various price ranges and features some of the world’s best theatre.

After grab a late night bite or drink at a pub before settling in after an ambitious weekend. If you have more time, there’s so much more to see. Popping into the new Sky Garden (get your tickets ahead of time) or grabbing an authentic afternoon tea is high on my list.

I need to get back to this amazing city myself, but in the meantime- go visit for me and save me some sticky toffee pudding. Cheerio!

[taycofftoadventure]

A Weekend in Santa Ynez Valley

A stone’s throw from Socal, the Santa Ynez Valley is a perfect escape to slow down, eat well, soak up some California beauty, and enjoy the best of wine country.  The region, made famous by the film Sideways, has always attracted people, but it’s getting even better as the aged wines that grow in the hills.

The area is a collection of communities that are connected by the 101 freeway that passes through.  My favorites include Solvang, Los Olivos, Buellton, and Los Alamos. From the south just passed Santa Barbara, you’ll likely take the 154 over the mountain for a lovely, picturesque view of the Valley (much of it once-owned by Fess Parker of Disney’s Daniel Boone fame). Not far off the road in the mountains, there’s a famous watering hole that opened in 1886 called the Cold Spring Tavern featuring hearty bites. You’ll pass Live Oak Camp which hosts a fun folk music festival once a year.

The crown jewel of the area is Solvang. Founded in 1911, a group of Danes established the region as a colony to escape the harsh weather of the Midwest. The fairytale city is full of bakeries, shops, and homages to the history of Denmark complete with a Little Mermaid statue copied from Copenhagen and a bust of Hans Christian Anderson. Windmill’s dot the architecture and the cozy town feels faraway. Get a bite at the Red Viking or Solvang restaurant and don’t skip the round pancake known as an ebelskiver. The town is a great spot to shop for a cuckoo clock (if you ask nicely, the woman will make them chirp  for you!) and antiques. They also have a Christmas festival in the holiday season that would be amazingly picturesque.

Just outside of town on the way to Buellton, stopping at Ostrichland is incredibly worth the price of admission. Pay a small extra price to feed the amazing prehistoric creatures and it’s a memory you’ll never forget. Just watch your fingers! It won’t take more than an hour to pop in and engage with these unforgettable creatures.

Buellton is less picturesque but if you’re a fan of Sideways, the hotel and Hitching Post restaurant are located just off the 101. Also, good food can be found at Industrial Eats and there are a few options for affordable motels. Pop into Standing Sun winery for one of their evenings of music. They bring in great acts to play in between the barrels.

Another gem in the region, Los Olivos is a splendid place to browse adorably curated shops and dine well. For a tasty bite, pop into Sides Hardware, Panino for a sandwich, and the Los Olivos Wine Merchant Café. Dragonette Winery has a tasting room in the town featuring some delicious varieties and worth the appointment. I recommend the rosé.

North on the 101, Los Alamos is often skipped but very worth the stop for the food alone. I’ve stayed at the Skyview Hotel for a lovely hipped-out spot that is thoughtfully designed with a nice pool. Very instagrammable. Down the hill, do not miss Bob’s Well Bread. I hate lines, but this spot is worth the wait. Completely dreamy pastries and bread. Also, the town boasts other great food at Full of Life Flatbread, Bell’s, and the tasting room Casa Dumetz.

For those who love wine, Santa Ynez is a perfect pilgrimmage. If you want a more educated adventure and someone to do the driving, I recommend the Sustainable Vine tour. I learned an incredible amount about wine and found a new appreciation for the growth process. The tour guide’s enthusiasm is infectious and it’s a wonderful way to see the region. If you’re on a budget and can only hit a few spots, I loved Beckman Winery, Demetria, and Zaca Mesa (don’t miss their Syrah!).

One warning about the towns in the area, things close early. Be sure to make those dinner reservations before things start to close down. The towns become very quiet in the evening- but lean into it. Take your wine and enjoy that early night in. Slowing down is part of the enjoyment. If you’re looking for nightlife- you might have to research a bit or go to Santa Barbara.

There’s a lot to enjoy in this rolling hills region whether you like wine or not. It’s perfect for a two night escape to feel a world away where you can move at a slower pace and bask in the golden California light.

[taycofftoadventure]

A Weekend in Paris

As the saying goes, “Paris is always a good idea.” Paris is not only dreamy, delicious, and full of history- it’s also a great hub to fly into on your trip to Europe. You can find reasonable trans-Atlantic flights and get your European adventure rolling in this beautiful city of lights- since it is the birth place of the Age of Enlightenment.  It’s the perfect place to spend a few days or a long weekend at the very least.

I suggest staying in the St. Germaine neighborhood on the Left Bank. It was such a flourishing part of the city with great eateries and shops within a stone’s throw. I also found it to be accessible to transit and crossing the Seine on foot. I loved staying at Sevres Saint Germain.  A wonderful hotel with everything you need and conveniently located steps away from Le Bon Marché and Place Saint-Sulpice. I’ll definitely return there the next time I go back!

The first thing I wanted to do was see the Eiffel Tower.  It’s quite the bucket-list worthy moment.  No need to go up, the best views are elsewhere, because what photo of the Paris skyline doesn’t include the Eiffel Tower? I suggest timing your stop so you can walk from there to the Arc de Triomphe! This is worth the climb to the top, especially at sunset. The city glows as the sky turns pink into the evening. The Eiffel Tower then lights up in the evening and it’s definitely worth a quick video or photo from a spot with a view.

Then wander down the Champs Elysees. It’s a bit of an outdoor mall and a little too “tourist commercial” for my taste- but do pop into the famous  Ladurée and get yourself something sweet.

My favorite open-late café is a must-do: Café Du Flore in St. Germain. One of the oldest and the most legendary cafés frequented by famous Parisian existentialists and philosophers.  No reservation is needed, and you’ll feel fully immersed in the past and the present. I have fantasies still about their hot chocolate.

Another delicious spot not too far away is Josephine Chez Dumonet. This restaurant will require reservations. A cozy, quintessential French bistro- I heard it’s where the French chefs like to dine themselves. Bon Appetite magazine says, “Josephine ‘Chez Dumonet’ crackles with that uniquely Parisian atmosphere created by the collision of serious power and seriously good food… Eat the most sublime terrine de foie gras you’ve ever had, then scarf down a casserole of what, for our euros, is the world’s ultimate beef bourguignonne.”

If you’re looking for an amazing night spot, go listen to jazz and maybe hit the dance floor at Caveau de la Huchette  in the Latin Quarter. A magical place to capture amazing music and some Parisian life in a 16th century cave-like setting. A must-do for those who love good live music with great atmosphere.

The next morning, get up early and head for Notre Dame. It’s a great first spot before the crowds descend too much. The line will be long, but they do an excellent job of moving people along. The setting is worth the wait and don’t miss the statue of Joan of Arc. It’s an iconic Gothic must-do!

Then you could wander over to the Louvre. It’s not too terribly far away. Or perhaps pop on the metro and head to the famous Montmarte neighborhood. For Amelie lovers (LIKE MYSELF), the Canal Saint Martin is less magical outside the movie setting. (Felt a bit tired and run down). We did stop at Café Des Deux Moulins – the café setting in the movie. It’s quite preserved and will help you channel the kaliadoscope of color that’s in the movie but the service is sub-par and the food is so-so. It’s good for a coffee break but then move on to more delicious destinations.

While in Montmarte don’t miss the Basilica Sacre-Coeur. It is a gorgeous setting and view for all if you walk the stairs. You’ll be rewarded by the climb by popping in for lunch or a drink at one of the restaurants up the hill. A bit touristy, but definitely charming. You can walk down by the Moulin Rogue to peek around as you head back on the train.

Paris also has some beautiful gardens. I highly recommend the Jardin du Luxembourg- landscaped greenery, beautiful sculpture, a playful basin where Parisian kids play with tiny sailboats, and romantic pathways that snake around the grounds.

A quick stroll away is L'Avant Comptoir- a real hidden gem. Owned by celebrity chef Yves Camdeborde, this hors d'oeuvres bar is hidden behind a crepe stand.  Go behind the curtain with the pig on it and you’ll be in a mystical land of small bites, butter, and wine. The menu hangs from the ceiling but don’t miss the artichoke and cured ham waffles, the hand-churned mountain of Bordier butter, and a recommendation from the wine expert behind the bar.

There is so much to see and do in Paris and this is only a peek behind the curtain. But truly much of the magic in Paris is walking the streets, window shopping, grabbing a bit of great food then covering it in butter while washing it down with red wine, and feeling the energy of the evening light up with the city lampposts. Give yourself space to wander and time to enjoy your meal. Slow down a bit- while there’s much to see, it’s best seen with the relaxed pace that Parisians are known for. Parisians have some of the longest meals of all European cultures. Surrender to the pace and enjoy your time in one of the world’s most epic cities.

Photos by myself.

[taycofftoadventure]

STRESS-FREE LA

When you’re bitten by the wanderlust bug, it can be hard when you’ve got weeks and weeks before your next adventure. Instead of stewing, I try to take advantage of what my home of Los Angeles has to offer. Travel allows us to leave the stresses of the world behind and it can be a challenge when your restless spirit longs for escape. For those anxious times, I’ve found peace in my own backyard… often literally since I bought a lounge chair for the patio.

People often think LA is innately stressful- parking is a challenge, lots of people to navigate, and the grind of traffic leaves us all with high cortisol. However, LA is full of places where the pace of life slows down. Whether you’re a local or visitor, here are my favorite tips for stress-free escapes within the confines of Los Angeles.

THE BEACH- Everyone knows it’s here, but most LA residents rarely go. Hitting the sand and the surf on a lovely day definitely fills the well. But parking is tricky, you say? Go early or take the public transportation. You will often find me on the Big Blue Bus in Santa Monica. Park for free a few blocks away and hop on the bus. It’s super cheap and you can use your metro tap card. You can also text now to find when the bus is coming, so there’s no mystery about how long you’ll have to wait. If you’re not into the sand part, many hotel pools offer access for a day-fee even if you’re not staying there. The Standard Downtown and the Mondrian were open to all last time I checked, but do double check. Be warned if your idea of the pool is quiet and you head to the SLS, you’ll be VERY disappointed so be sure to check the pool’s vibe before heading out. 

PARKS AND GARDENS- There are so many free parks around. Take a backpack with a picnic and a blanket and hang on the lawn of one. I love Griffith Park in particular. Layout on the lawn near Fern Dell, do some forest bathing while walking the paths to Trails Café for a snack, and wander into the hills. I also recommend walking up to Amir’s Garden on the other side of the hill and finding a quiet bench to meditate on.  Additionally, LA is home to some world famous gardens like the Huntington and Descanso. Both do have an admission price, but if you’re looking to feel a world away- these places are transcending. Hike and layout and munch.

BRUNCH- Speaking of munching, brunch is a great way to treat yourself. I love a slow morning and making breakfast, but if you don’t feel like cooking or cleaning, this town has endless options. But the WAIT TIMES?! I know, I hate them too- avoid them by making a reservation! No need to stress. One of my favorite brunch destinations is the Inn of the Seventh Ray in Topanga. Yummy food  and a natural setting. Another option is heading to a local farmers market. They usually always have food from a truck or vendor. Strolling the fruit , free samples, and crafts is a perfect way to spend a slow morning.

TREAT YOURSELF, ON A BUDGET- Heading to a spa is also an obvious way to destress, but it often can stress-out the pocket book. You might assume you don’t have the budget to go to a spa or get a massage, but this is a big town with a ton of affordable options! Many massage places have hours that are discounted. Look in your area. Check out foot massage spots too- they are often cheaper and from my experience do massage more than just your toes. If you feel like you’ve neglected your aches and pains, consider a trip to an acupuncturist. Try a place like Eagle Rock Community Acupuncture for a great sense of relief but on a budget. Also Korean Spas are generally an affordable way to get the spa treatment for an affordable price. I enjoy Wi Spa especially for its great saunas (don’t miss the clay balls!)  – it’s also fun to go there with friends as well as on your own.  If you have a higher budget and more time, take a drive to Glen Ivy Hot Springs. You can spend the day going from hot tub, to pool, to mud bath, to hot tub again. It’s even fun on cooler days because it’s less crowded.  (I feel like you can skip paying extra for the “Grotto,” unless you get FOMO).

TAKE A CLASS- Popping into an exercise class is an excellent way to get a workout and also tend to your cortisol levels. This town has everything be it dance, Zumba, or yoga for all levels. There are a lot of donation only classes if you are on a budget like Runyon Canyon’s outdoor yoga. On the other side of the spectrum, consider a cooking class. These are pricier but it’s definitely worth it for the fun if you’re into learning more about cooking. I recommend FoodStory and Hip Cooks. 

MEDITATE-  Look around for a meditation workshop. You can jump into a rejuvenating guided meditation for as little as $11 some places. I recommend visiting the Self Realization Lake Shrine - find a quiet bench or wander into the windmill on the lake and sit. You’ll feel totally comfortable taking in the quiet at the lake. After wander the gardens and breathe deep. 

As much as I love to travel, I do appreciate staying home. I make my place a sanctuary for a day with peaceful music, incense, tea, pulling out a novel, finding time for a nap, doing a facemask- it’s my version of luxury minus the expense and effort. The importance of self-care has become mainstream in the best way. So if you can’t physically escape LA, you’ll be A-okay- you can still escape your worries. 

[taycofftoadventure]

Adventure to Ireland

Ireland is a beautiful  country with deep history, gorgeous landscapes, and charming people. I journeyed there with my husband who was touring the country with his band- so I’d love to get back to explore more but I’m thrilled we fit in some amazing sights on our relatively busy stay. 

We started in Dublin and our taxi driver at the airport was unabashedly talkative, free with his expletives in the most glorious way, and blasting U2 on the stereo. Our first introduction to the Irish people stayed somewhat consistent (minus the expletives)- they’re funny, honest, and love giving tourists directions and tips. (It’s dawning on me that my heritage is starting to make a wee bit of sense actually). Part of the magic of the journey to Ireland is engaging with the people. I’m relatively shy at times, but I loved engaging with the Irish. The people of Ireland are distinctive and love to tell a good tale. 

We rented a car to get around quickly from town to town. Outside of Dublin this was a smart move, but driving in Dublin was pretty stressful- the signage is different with lots of narrow one-way streets that added to the classic driving-on-the-opposite-side anxiety. It’s not the place you want to “warm up” into this style of driving. I recommend sticking to a taxi if you can while in town and then use the car for the countryside. Driving on the opposite side is a challenge. Give yourself plenty of time to get around and try to mentally prepare beforehand. 

Dublin itself is worth visiting, but I also found it a place I didn’t need to spend too much time. My favorite stop was popping into Trinity College to see the Long Room in the Old Library and the Book of Kells. I loved it for the history lesson and the architecture. Within walking distance of the college, you’ll find a busy shopping and restaurant district near Drury Lane. I encourage wandering that direction for a bite and a pint. Afterward, venture to the nearby lovely St. Stephen’s Green. It’s a picturesque Victorian park that Dubliners use quite a bit. We visited on a sunny Summer day and people were picnicking and lounging on the lawn amidst the sculptures and waterbirds. 

I encourage you to get outside of Dublin quickly because Ireland is full of natural wonders.The country features world-famous sights like the Cliffs of Moher, Giant’s Causeway, and the Ring of Kerry. Ireland is pretty far north, so even in the Summer I felt a chill in the air and we had rainy days. Bring layers and your umbrella. 

If you’re headed to Galway, Dingle, and destinations to the west, stop halfway in the heart of Ireland at Athlone. It’s a special spot to me because my ancestors had a farm there- but you’ll find a quaint town on the River Shannon with deep history, a castle on the water, and the oldest bar on record.  Sean’s Bar dates back to 900 AD when Vikings raided the Irish shores. Athlone is also the location where King  Máel Sechnaill mac Domnaill acknowledged the great Brian Boru as the High King of Ireland. The castle is the site of the great Siege of Athlone, known as the heaviest bombardment in Irish history spanning ten days with 12,000 cannonballs and 600 bombs. 

If Southern Ireland is your destination outside of Dublin, drive through Cashel. A lovely town with the iconic Rock of Cashel castle. It’s open for touring during the day and has deep history featuring the famous St. Patrick.  It’s also a mighty gorgeous place to be at sunset.

I recommend journeying to the port town of Cobh in the south and staying there a couple days. If you’re an American with Irish roots, your ancestors went through Cobh. The Heritage Center in the town shares the history of the Irish immigration story and allows you to trace your ancestors. It was also the last stop for both the Lusitania and Titanic before their ill-fated treks. There’s a museum for the Titanic as well for those fascinated with that history. The town itself has great food, a large and picturesque cathedral, and is situated attractively on the waterfront. I highly recommend staying at the Elmville bed and breakfast. Olive is a superb hostess and runs a lovely place. She also serves a delicious Irish breakfast. My husband specifically wanted me to share that Cobh has a great open-late (past 11pm) Chinese food restaurant called Hong Kong Kitchen.

Within an easy drive of Cobh is the town of Cork which is fun to head to in the evening. It’s a bit inland of the coast and features a bustling downtown with pubs and music. We enjoyed dining at the Electric Fish Bar. Also nearby is the famous Blarney Castle. It’s known as a tourist trap, but if you’re a fan of castles, it’s a famous one- although kissing the Blarney Stone isn’t exactly up my alley personally. You may want to wash the germs down with a bit of whiskey.

Spend another day venturing to Kinsale, otherwise known as the “Gourmet capital” of Ireland. The vibe feels like if California wine country and a quaint Irish village had a baby, you’d get Kinsale. The town highlights great shops  and stellar eateries like Fishy Fishy (tough name but trust me, unless you don’t like fish of course).  It has a historic port on the River Brandon and was also an important location in the military history of the region.

From there, if you have the time and ambition, I’d head two hours to the Ring of Kerry, Killarney, and then Dingle. I’m sad to have missed this part of the country and do aim to return. I also lament missing Northern Ireland and all that has to offer as well- but you take the journeys you can. There’s a natural circle starting in Dublin then taking the roads to the south, then west, and then back to where you started if you have time to truly explore.

As the Irish say, “May the road rise up to meet you” on your adventure to Ireland... at the very least, may you not have trouble driving on the opposite side of the road as well, for what it’s worth. Say hello to the little people and the faeries if you happen to see any for me. I hope the luck of the Irish rubs off on you in your adventure to the Emerald Isle. Sláinte!

[taycofftoadventure]

A Weekend in Ketchikan

Alaska does not disappoint. The combination of history, nature, and culture melds together into an amazing adventure. Ketchikan, Alaska is pretty “south” by Alaskan standards. It’s an easy flight from Seattle and you’ll feel in the thick of the northland. Within the first few hours of my visit, Alaska’s nature put on a show with bald eagles flying above and breeching whales splashing in the Tongass water ways. 

Ketchikan itself has a ton of character... and characters. The place made me understand Twin Peaks and Northern Exposure better. Walking to my hotel on the first day, we happened upon a drunk man walking high above on the beams of a tall bridge across a water way- I was naturally worried, but the locals assured me, he just does that regularly. Maybe it’s the strange  amount of sunlight or the isolation, but the locals are at once incredibly friendly and full of quirk. Most visitors come in daily on the cruise ships and then promptly leave, so if you’re visiting for longer they’re inquisitive to know more and chat. Speaking of daylight, I went in the Spring when the days were long which was great for getting to fit in lots of activities in a day. May through September is the best time to travel to the region. It was still very chilly in the Spring, so just bring all your layers and be ready for anything.

The town itself is fairly easy to navigate without a car. As long as you can get a lift from the airport ferry to the town, it’s pretty feasible to get around. Also they have a bus system that connects you to some of the destinations outside of town. Be sure to check the schedule before you venture out.

I stayed at The New York Hotel as part of the Inn at Creek Street on my visit. It was a great location with a delicious restaurant and bar attached. They have various options for folk to stay around the town. Also Cape Fox Lodge up the hill is much bigger with fine dining restaurant that doesn’t disappoint and has lovely views. When you’re in Ketchikan, GET SEAFOOD. Salmon doesn’t get fresher. The Alaska Fish House is a great option for the fresh catch with no frills. For breakfast, Sweet Mermaids was great. If you need a late night greasy spoon, Pioneer Cafe is the best option. 

Don’t miss Creek Street when you go- especially if you’re just in town a day. The most charming former red light district I’ve happened upon. The buildings are built out over a rushing creek, where if you’re lucky you might catch salmon swimming upstream. It’s full of quaint shops for souvenirs and art, as well as plaques for the history of the area. Don’t miss reading them, as the historical background of the women who worked and ran the neighborhood is fascinating. 

Then I recommend wandering over to the Totem Heritage Center. The museum isn’t large, but is fascinating and will give you your “Totem 101″ so you’ll understand and have context for the native art of the 19th century Tlingit communities who lived in the region. Then take a bus to Totem Bight State Park. It features some amazing displays of totems and native architecture created by craftsman. Most poles there are replicas, but the site is a former native campground, so seeing the poles in their natural habitat feels magical. 

The nature around Ketchikan is gorgeous, so do fit in a hike if you can. It rains a lot in Ketchikan, therefore take an umbrella and water resistant layers out to wander. The forest is bright green with thick growth at every turn. Deer Mountain is accessible in the town and a walk through the neighborhood. The hike itself through the rainforest has some lovely views of the Tongass Narrows, but it’s a lot of uphill. Another great hike is Perseverance Lake- it’s a bit out of town so you would need a ride but it’s an unforgettable trek into the Tongass/Ketchikan National Forest. 

If you can, do try to get out onto the water way on a boat... the white capped mountain peaks are best seen from the water and a glimpse of the whales is worth it for the memories. Also the Misty Fjords National Monument is in the region but not easily accessible. If you have an extra day and the budget, you can get a tour via plane or boat. 

Ketchikan also has its live performance side- the kitschy but ever-charming Lumberjack Show. A tourist attraction? 100%... but also when in Rome! Ketchikan has an active arts and culture community that sponsors shows and brings in musicians as well as curates a lovely gallery.

If you’re looking for adventure into what feels like the last frontier, Ketchikan is a mystical gateway to get away from it all. It would also be a perfect trip with kids as well. I do warn, after a couple days the small town feel becomes very apparent, so it’s great for a short journey that feels a world away. It’s also ideal as a long weekend before your adventurous spirit draws you further northward. 

Photos by myself and Zach Lupetin.

[taycofftoadventure]

Weekend in Vegas in the Winter

Vegas is an interesting place. Honestly, I’ve never been immediately drawn to it (I’m not the gambling or clubbing sort), but I have found that beyond the cliche spectacle is a fun place with amazing food, entertainment, and nature (shockingly!). I’ve only been to Vegas in the winter- which requires you to be extra creative because the pool plan during the day isn’t always available when the air is chilly. Hope these tips help you increase the odds of having a fun time. 

I’ve stayed on the strip and off. I’ve stayed in “nice” places and in places that had warnings about how to dispose of needles properly in the bathroom (that was a new one). All in all, I enjoyed staying at Vdara most. It’s connected to the Bellagio and right next to the Cosmo, so you’re in the action. BUT AMAZINGLY, there is no casino- so the air is smoke-free and the lobby doesn’t have that strange dim twilight. They have suites, so you could feasibly share the room if you go with friends you’re close with as well (ahem lady get-a-way!). And they have little kitchens, so you can save on breakfast.

Going to Vegas with a group of women can be a  particularly mystical experience. Promoters clearly hover on social media and message you if you post about your trip. You can be offered meals and drinks through promoters- and it did work?! My skeptical side thought it was too good to be true, but we managed to skip the line at a club and get our drinks paid for. Keep your guard up, be smart, but you might get a steak out of the deal. 

Typically though, clubbing isn’t high on my list of activities. There are a lot of fun activities besides that and losing your money on the craps table. The entertainment in Vegas is worth the ticket price usually. If you’re not sure what to see, Cirque Du Soliel is ALWAYS a solid bet. Ka in particular in Vegas is utterly jaw dropping. I was also surprisingly impressed by the Penn & Teller show. It’s solid and mind-boggling.

During the day, if you’re looking for fresh air- outside Vegas there are some amazing sights! Bring your hiking shoes because Red Rocks Canyon is a short drive away. A striking array of red rocks and a break from neon is a welcome adventure from the city. You can feel very far away from the glitter and surrender to the landscape. There are many hikes into the hills and be sure to bring your camera. 

A little further a drive (40 minutes), but still very worth the trip, you’ll find the Hoover Dam. Where the land meets engineering feats, it’s worth the wander. If you’re not afraid of heights, walk up the  Mike O'Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge. The view is worth the climb. 

If you wish to stay in the city limits, don’t miss the Neon Museum. I loved this tour. It’s not very long, but definitely made me look at Vegas with new eyes and appreciation. Having an understanding of how neon is crafted, you’ll gain a real respect the signage throughout the city. It touches upon the history of the town, which is also very interesting. 

After the Neon Museum, head over to “Old Vegas” or Fremont Street. It’s essentially a  24-hour mall featuring an LED canopy, casinos, and restaurants. I doubt the zip-line is worth the money or line. There was also a live band the time I went and they do offer free entertainment. It’s a strange part of town with a lot of history (even the piece of the Berlin Wall is in a bathroom there- google it) and some of the older casinos like Binions have a lot of character. If you’re charmed by smoky places and cheap prime rib, you’ll have a blast. Otherwise it’s worth it ONLY for a couple hours or so to look around and take some photos.

Once you’re back on the newer strip, I do recommend putting on some comfy shoes and walking around to see the casinos and hotels. They are an ostentatious physical display that overwhelm the senses (sometimes literally if they’re smokey). From the classy to the ornate to the utterly ridiculous- you’ll see it all. Don’t miss the Bellagio Botanical Gardens and outdoor fountain show. Also be sure to peruse Caesars, the Venetian, and New York New York. A gondola ride in the Venetian will set you back, but you have to see it at the very least. If your feet are tired on the way back, consider the monorail. 

One of my favorite parts of Vegas is the world class food. Vegas gets first dibs on the best seafood in all of the country supposedly- so I recommend getting some seafood at Joe’s. Another favorite is Bouchon- complete with a stunning view and tucked away in the Venetian. For tapas, I dig Jaleo in the Cosmopolitan. Afterwards, go to get a drink at Cosmo’s Chandelier Bar. There’s often a fun live band as well as tongue tingling (and I mean this literally) drinks inside the chandelier itself. If you want a light bite, Earl of Sandwich is a friend-favorite in the Planet Hollywood Casino. 

Do save a little money to gamble. Be smart though- the house does tend to win. And Vegas is a pricey place- you’ll need those funds to eat well and see a Cirque show! Which is a definite winning move!

Winter in Vegas is sometimes cheaper as far as rates go, so don’t be deterred. There are a lot of things to do and see in a weekend. So whether it’s a ladies weekend or a romantic getaway with your amour, Vegas is fun time for 72 hours max. More than that, I think may tend to push my patience and pocketbook. Although next time I head to Vegas, I do hope to trade my heavy coat for  pool loungewear. 

[taycofftoadventure]

German Christmas Markets

Germany is a perfect place to venture to during the holiday season. Most towns host a Weihnachtsmarkt or  Christkindlmarkt in the town square starting at the end of November to celebrate the start of the Advent. The Germans love Christmas and these markets are certainly the physical manifestation of that warmth for the holiday season. Characterized by wooden stalls for artisans, you can be sure to pick up a holiday gift, ornament, or delicious treat that will make you feel a sense of gemütlichkeit- a warm coziness with a sense of belonging. 

Eating is an enjoyable part of the Christmas market- get a bratwurst or currywurst to start, of course. Be sure to save room for glühwein - a warmed red mulled wine that is a staple of the markets. Often it comes with a dash of brandy or rum. They are served in a decorative mug or clay cup you can take home with you. Also treat yourself to a lebkuchen - soft cookies made of gingerbread and nuts. I prefer the ones with chocolate because= duh.

These markets are all over the country but here are a few I popped into and would highly recommend within a drive of each other in Southern Germany. 

Stuttgart - One of the country’s largest and oldest markets and does not disappoint. It’s almost overwhelming. I walked in on a choir singing, giant nutcrackers, an elaborate train set with a steam locomotive, and what seemed like an endless amount of stalls (280 I believe and there is a competition for best stall roof, so even they’re amazing). Positioned outside the Old Palace in the city center, Christmas is everywhere. 

Esslingen - Very close to Stuttgart, but you could go there the next day! This town does a medieval Christmas market and it’s very memorable. More manageable than Stuttgart with a cozier vibe. Craftsman and performances hearken to the past - don’t miss it! I truly loved it! The town itself feels like a fairy tale.

Heidelberg - In the shadow of the grand Heidelberg castle on the mountain above the city(which is worth the tour, be sure to make time for it on your visit), this market is also worth the stop in a picturesque town square with a gorgeous Christmas pyramid. Afterwards pop into a cozy cafe for some hot chocolate. 

Rothenberg ob der Tauber - Perhaps the most magical of all the stops, this walled Bavarian city has been relatively untouched for many centuries taking visitors into the medieval past.  The town itself inspired Walt Disney in his fairy tale design. The town doubles down during the holidays and every nook and granny seems like it’s decorated for Christmas. Don’t miss the  Käthe Wohlfahrt store and peruse the deepest depths of holiday ornaments, cuckoo clocks, and christmas pyramids. It’s a little overwhelming, but it’s undeniably spirited. Spring for a little extra and they have a Christmas Museum all year round.

Honorable Mention: Nuremberg -  I didn’t attend this one, but I saw it while passing through and I’m sad I missed it! It’s simply gorgeous. It’s one of the oldest markets and widely known as one of the best. One key aspect, the local government really controls the vendors. No crafts are mass produced, so you know the goods are quality. 

The Germans know how to celebrate the season, so if you’re looking for a European trip during the winter- consider Germany. Every town is illuminated by the spirit of the holiday. The sun may set early, but the glow of the holiday lights from the Christmas Market stay bright into the night.

Photos by myself and my dear friend, Loreli Deleon

[taycofftoadventure]

Weekend in Prague

Dobrý den! The holidays are a lovely time to adventure to the grand city of Prague. It’s a city easy to be charmed by. My dear friend and I took a bus from Nuremberg, Germany and tackled the city mainly on foot. Bring your comfy shoes, because walking is the best way to get around. Most of the top sites are generally in an easy walking distance. Have a map handy, charge your phone, and leave the car behind. 

We stayed at Motel One and it was a fairly easy  walk to the more touristy parts of town. It’s not far from Wenceslas Square in New Town- an important location in the history of Communism in the region.  

Wandering the streets is one of the most fun parts of the journey- there are cafes, puppet shops, and taverns to peruse. The architecture varies widely from medieval to art nouveau and each corner feels a bit like a work of art. 

During the holiday season, visit the Christmas Market in Old Town Square. Be sure to grab a  traditional Slovak rolled pastry called a trdelník. Reminiscent of a churro, it’s warm rolled dough covered in cinnamon and sugar. It’s best paired with some traditional mulled wine. 

Watch the time and wander over to the medieval 14th century astronomical clock to see it go off. It has a dark history, but definitely gives the square a bit of magical charm in a more modern context. Afterwards,  you can walk to the top of the 14th century Old Town Hall tower for around $5. If you’re fit, I recommend the stars. It’s a picturesque view of the city and well worth the stop. It offers an iconic view of Our Lady Before Tyn Church’s 80 meter towers and the rest of the Prague. Afterwards I recommend a stroll through the Jewish Quarter for a bit of history. Be sure to spy the Old Jewish Cemetery- one of the oldest surviving Jewish cemeteries in the world and National Geographic lists it as one the top ten cemeteries to visit in the world.

For art fans, I recommend a stop into the Mucha Museum. It’s not too big and you can peruse it in a couple hours. Buy yourself a few gifts in the gift shop and be on your way before dinner.

We had a lovely meal in the Municipal House. A gorgeously designed art nouveau dining room with delicious local food. Prague has a lot of international foods as well. There also seemed to be a pizza place every block or so. Try Bohemian Bagel for lunch and the lovely Cafe Imperial. Afterwards find a local bar, get a Pilsner Urquell, and cheer to Kafka!

The next day, venture across the water on the Charles Bridge. No other bridge in town will do! Perhaps one of the prettiest bridges I’ve ever walked across leading you to Malá Strana- or the little side of the river. Walk up the cobblestone streets and up the hill to Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral. You can truly spend a lot of time up here. The Cathedral is breathtaking- don’t miss the Mucha stained glass window. The castle is also worth the wander.

Czech is a tricky language, so everyone speaks English which makes Prague a comfortable stop for American tourists. They also use local currency and not the Euro- but I found it to be fairly easy to deduce amounts in my head because their bill’s worth translates similarly to our own even though the numbers are different.

There are other amazing sites in Prague, but if you’re short on time, you’ll feel very satisfied with these. It was a city I underestimated before visiting- and then fell utterly in love. Prague is simply beautiful. Baroque and Gothic history blend here in a romantic embrace. I encourage you to walk back a different street and see the varied architecture. It’s hard not to be completely smitten with the capital of Bohemia, especially in the cozy, snow-dusted holiday season.

Photos by myself and my Prague travel-pal Loreli Deleon. 

[taycofftoadventure]

Travel Tips for Big Sur

Big Sur is a remarkable place. Broad and golden mountains jut out of the deep sea along the California coast. It’s a place set apart with one road in and out, the CA-1, making it a secluded strip of majestic land saved from over-development. It’s a journey to get there, but you’re richly rewarded. Big Sur is coastal but not beachy. It has a more mountain-town vibe, but next to the Pacific. The shoreline is rocky and full of vibrancy. It’s secluded nature is the exact thing that makes the area tricky to plan a trip around- but that’s what this blog is for!

There are limited places to stay in Big Sur- but if you PLAN AHEAD there are great options. Airbnb is pretty nonexistent. However if you have a bunch of pals, consider Blake’s idyllic eco-farm. It’s heavenly and worth the memories. If you go, tell him Taylor says hi! Otherwise, there are a bunch of options off the CA-1. If you stay at Big Sur Lodge, you can get a park pass which is a nice bonus. If you’ve got a lot of disposable income, Post Ranch Inn is mighty dreamy. At least pop in to the Sierra Mar restaurant for a bite or a drink at the bar. Call for reservations- they do have a gate on the grounds, so don’t just show up. Additionally camping is wonderful in the area- it’s a great option for folks on a budget for this region. Or camp a few nights and splurge a few nights-  three-four days is ideal up there and it’s a great way to save a few pennies and then treat yourself at the end of the stay since hotels can get pricey.

There are a ton of things to do in Big Sur. Just driving CA-1 and stopping to take photos along the way is a bucket-list worthy activity. Drive safe on those curves, use turn-outs if you’re taking your time, and bring your Dramamine if you’re accustomed to being carsick. 2017 was a hard year for the highway- suffering from three mudslides and a downed bridge.  Do check ahead for the best route. The Pfeiffer Bridge has been repaired, so you can drive in from the north.Happily the best route from the South is finally open as of July 20, 2018. The route from Cambia, past Hearst’s castle, and all the elephant seals is a gorgeous drive. Gas is pricey, so be sure to keep that in mind.  There is also a route called Nacimiento-Fergusson from the 101, but it’s quite windy and narrow (but totally doable with caution). If you take this route- don’t try it at night and get gas in Paso Robles. You won’t find any along the route. Lastly, give yourself plenty of time. It’s a vacation, no need to rush. You might find delays- but sit back and enjoy the beauty even from the road. (But maybe try to go mid-week to avoid any crowds).

My personal favorite MUST-DO’s for Big Sur are as follows:

JULIA PFEIFFER BURNS STATE PARK- This place is magical. Park and see the McWay Falls- one of the only waterfalls in North America that flows into the sea. This is an iconic Big Sur spot. Take a stroll around to the McWay Falls House.The Ewoldsen Trail is a beautiful hike into the woods. You could spend a day here if you wanted, but at least do the falls. Bring some cash for parking.

PFEIFFER BEACH- It’s down an unmarked road with a lot of mailboxes so google it when you have wifi. Once you turn into it, there's shy signage- but this beach is worth the windy road and confusion: iconic, beautiful, and it's one of my all-time favorite places. Be warned you will have to pay for admittance (bring cash)- it’s not part of the normal park pass. You’ll be rewarded for your efforts to find this hidden gem.

ANDREW MOLERA STATE PARK- Gorgeous park and a beautiful hike to the beach there. Worth the wander.

POINT LOBOS STATE RESERVE- A hike out along the churning, white capped shoreline, but also a sea lion heaven. Full of history and teeming with life- it’s a magical place to explore.

PFEIFFER STATE PARK- Big Sur is the home of great and wonderful redwoods. This park has some thrilling hikes through the woods and into the mountain. Go see some giants.

Other iconic spots include the Henry Miller Library, the Esalen Institute (reserve a late night spot in their hot springs!), Point Sur Lighthouse, and the Bixby Bridge.

Big Sur doesn’t have a lot of amenities (you won’t find a grocery store besides the market at Big Sur Deli for basics and good wine). Get your gas before you get there. They do have two gas stations but you’ll pay a lot. There are great places to grab a meal- my very favorite being the Big Sur Bakery. More than just baked goods, you’ll get delicious farm-to-table meal in a cozy atmosphere (especially in the evening) made with love by a great team. (I had my wedding dinner there, so I’m biased but in the best possible way!). Nepenthe is another option- this spot is iconic and can get crowded. I also like wandering the shop. It’s a stop you’ll want to make before the sun sets because essentially you’re paying for the view. Further north, I like the Big Sur River Inn.  It’s a picturesque restaurant along the Big Sur River- you can even sit on Adirondack chairs and dip your toes in the water before or after you eat. 

Another tricky aspect to Big Sur: little to no cell service. Strategize wisely. However there’s only one road really, so directions to places can be relatively simple. I recommend uploading your plans for the day while on wifi at the hotel or restaurant before heading out. But it’s a lovely aspect, because you can truly unplug. 

Finally, check your seasonal conditions. My favorite time in the region is around September- you’ll have less chance for rain and less fog. The fog is lovely for a little moody vibe, but definitely can be a bummer for views. Also check for fire conditions, it’s been a tricky spot for wildfire outbreaks in the past few years. 

Big Sur holds a big place in my heart: I got married here. One of the reasons we chose this place is for it’s soulful energy. The natural elements merge here in a poetic way- it’s a melding of the sea, the mountains, the sky, and wind. You will feel swept away into the landscape. This place takes you to the end of the Earth overlooking into the edge of the abyss. It’s beautiful to infinity. You’ll carry the memories for a lifetime.

All photos mine except the last two wedding photos which were taken by the amazing Vitae Weddings.

[taycofftoadventure]

Travel Tips for Yosemite

Yosemite is a truly powerful place. It feels like hallowed ground as great granite cathedrals rise towards the sky. Perched high in the Sierras,  the park is packed with amazing sights and destinations for the adventurous traveler. In the words of John Muir, the park’s most ardent advocate, “It is easier to feel than to realize, or in any way explain, Yosemite grandeur. The magnitudes of the rocks and trees and streams are so delicately harmonized, they are mostly hidden.” 

I love Yosemite. It’s a vivid moment when you first see the Yosemite Valley. You emerge from the deep forest and the valley’s beauty will leave you gobsmacked. As you emerge the tunnel, you’re slapped in the face with utter beauty. There’s no place quite as majestic. If you go to Yosemite, don’t skip the iconic Yosemite Valley. It’s a visit you’ll never forget.

Before entering the park, get gas. There’s not a lot in the park (it’s pricey and none in the valley) and you may find yourself doing a good bit of driving. Otherwise, the park has a lot amenities. Plenty of places to eat, lodge, and pick up forgotten supplies. Also there’s a great free shuttle service in the valley which helps folks go to valley sites. 

The ultimate way to stay in Yosemite is by camping (plus it’s a great affordable option). Staying at the Pines Campgrounds in the Valley is the best spot for campers. The sites are well situated along the Merced and tucked beneath iconic Half Dome. They are tricky to score and you really have to register for them six months before you want to camp. Acquiring camping in the valley is a lot like getting Radiohead tickets. You really have to plan ahead and keep an eye on the dates. If you fail at getting a spot in the valley, Hodgden Meadows usually has sites free. It’s outside the valley but you can drive in and it’s not far from Hetch Hetchy. Also try for a tent cabin in Half Dome Village (formerly Curry Village). Beware to prep for bears- no food or items that smell like food should be left in your car or in your tent. I’ve had a run in with a hungry bear. They are best to be avoided with precautions. 

There are some great hotels in Yosemite as well. If you find yourself confused looking for the famous Ahwahnee Hotel, it’s due to name changes after a trademark problem. It’s dumb and petty but oh well- the Ahwahnee is the Majestic Yosemite Hotel. It’s worth stopping in to walk through and snag a bite in the bar. The architecture fits in well with the granite walls of the valley. Don’t miss kicking your feet up in the bar and enjoying a delicious bite. There are some other spots to grab a meal throughout the valley and in the park. Every hotel has a dining room, so when you want a break from cooking over a fire there are a few options for you. Outside the valley, food is more scarce but definitely options exist if you plan ahead.

I recommend getting in a good hike while you’re in the park. Not every site is accessible from a road, but your two feet will take you somewhere magical.  My favorite hike is the Mist Trail or Half Dome trail. It’s the same trail essentially. For first timers to the park, I recommend hiking up Vernal Falls, stopping for a snack, and then Nevada Falls, eating a picnic lunch on top, then heading back on the John Muir Trail down to the foot bridge at Vernal Falls. It’s a strenuous hike with a 2000 ft gain, but by starting early and taking your time- It’s very doable. If you keep going on the trail and not over Nevada Falls, you’ll hit Little Yosemite Valley. You’ll find camping and bathrooms there. Beyond that,  the Half Dome hike continues into the forest for a few hours before you emerge high above the valley. If you intend to go as far as a switchbacks, I hope you have gloves and a permit. You won’t be able to reach the top without navigating cables that are not up all year and require a permit when they are- but even getting this far feels incredible. Do watch the clock and bring a headlamp- Half Dome is a 14 hour hike. 

Other favorite hikes include : 

Four Mile Trail- Catch a ride to Glacier Point and hike down to the valley floor for three/four hours with amazing valley views. Strenuous.

Sentinel Dome/Taft Point- Two hour hike to stellar view off Glacier Point Rd. I’d combine it with a stop at Glacier Point. Not a hard hike with maximum sights! Moderate.

Wapama Falls- Hetch Hetchy is like Yosemite Valley if someone dammed up the river to create a large reservoir (much to Muir’s chagrin). It’s mighty picturesque and this hike begins at the dam and is a two hour walk that skirts along the side of the water for five miles round trip. Moderate.

Lembert Dome- A lovely three hour stroll through the woods to the top of Tuolumne Meadow’s granite jewel. Moderate.

If you’re looking for easy hikes, head to the base of Yosemite Falls or Bridalveil Falls in the valley. 

Yosemite changes drastically with the season. The Yosemite Falls is full force in the Spring and a trickle by Autumn. In Spring, water comes off the side of granite creating waterfalls every where. However, be prepared to encounter swollen water on hikes so bring extra socks. Around Memorial Day, Glacier Point typically opens up as well as the High Country where Tuolumne Meadows is located. In the Summer and Autumn, try to trek into this area to the north because it’s not accessible all year. Tenaya Lake is one of my favorite spots on Earth. It's what heaven must look like- a pristine lake in the sky. Swim in the calm cold water and bask on the sunny shores before or after a hike in Tuolumne.  Nearby stop at Olmstead Point and take a gander down the treacherously beautiful Tenaya Canyon for a view of the north side of Half Dome. In 2018, Mariposa Grove and it’s great trees re-opens again and it’s a great stop on the way out of the park as you head south. Check the website for updates and road closures.

Additionally there are a ton of other activities in the park like fishing, swimming (be cautious when swimming- more people drown in the park than dying in any other activity- use caution and swim in shallow, calm water), horseback riding, climbing, biking, Winter sports (when there is snow), and stargazing. If you’re out at night, peer at the granite walls for tiny lights of climbers sleeping perched off the walls. El Capitan takes about three days to climb, so you’ll be sure to see them there. 

Three nights are ideal in Yosemite. One night to relax, a day of a hike in the Valley, another day for a driving destination (like Tuolumne Meadows or Hetch Hetchy) and short hike, and i recommend fitting in one last hike or site before your drive out. More days are better but you’ll feel pretty satisfied with three nights at the very least.

Yosemite is a place that changes you. It’s an elemental power. Every time I’m in Yosemite, I feel like I’ve return to a potent source. The landscape is alive and open. My joyful inner dialogue is “That’s BEAUTIFUL, That’s AMAZING, That’s MAJESTIC...”- you get the idea. Ansel Adams said, “Yosemite Valley, to me, is always a sunrise, a glitter of green and golden wonder in a vast edifice of stone and space.” The mountains are calling. Go, go, go.

Photos by Reyana Wright, Becca Murray, Z Lupetin, and myself. 

[taycofftoadventure]

Weekend in Joshua Tree

Over the past few years, it seems Joshua Tree has drawn more and more visitors to its beautiful yet decidedly quirky sites. Instagram and blogs have exploded celebrating the photogenic terrain. Folks who are reticent to visit the desert should truly give this place a try- you’ll be utterly charmed by the, often literal, vibrations in this uniquely wonderful place. I will warn- this is not a “year round” spot to visit. It gets quite hot after June until the Autumn coolness returns to the desert. Some sites in town shut down for the season in the hottest months, but come Fall through Spring- it’s a wonderful destination for folks who long for a combination of adventure and relaxation. 

There are a lot of great places to stay in Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley, and in the surrounding region. Camping in the park itself is a real treat. My favorite spot is Jumbo Rocks- you’ll be quite central. But pickers can’t always be choosers in Joshua Tree- it’s first-come, first-serve and if you don’t hit the region by Friday- you may be out of luck. I recommend swinging through Indian Cove off Twenty-nine Palms Hwy first to see if you can get a spot there. If you do- take it... you may be passing up the last place left in the whole park. If it sounds like I’ve failed at getting camping, it’s because I have. Other camping outside the park isn’t as good. The natural rock features at these sites in the national park provide shelter from the dramatic desert winds. 

Alternatively there are hotels, Airbnb’s, and Bed and Breakfasts (Try the charming Campbell House for a bit of history and a love story). If you failed at securing a camping spot or need a budget place, the Travelodge in Yucca Valley isn’t half bad and there’s a pool. If you can snag a pool, you’ll be a happy traveler. 

When you pull into town, stop for lunch at Cafe Frontier and then wander the shops around it for excellently priced resale clothing and antiques. You’ll get your money’s worth. Favorite spots include Pioneer Crossing Antiques, Hoof and Horn, and The End among others. I don’t even really like shopping but this is a solid stop for gems. Other delicious stops in town include Crossroad Cafe, Joshua Tree Saloon (has karaoke some nights), and old-school diner Country Kitchen featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations.

Joshua Tree is full of artistic personality. I highly recommend stopping at unique locations like the Noah Purifoy Museum. It’s hauntingly off-beat, strangely charming and worth the drive in the sand. Joshua Tree also has a park full of Christ sculptures and a museum dedicated to crochet.

Before you roll into town, check the calendar at Pappy and Harriet’s- known for its live music. Everyone has played here, whether it’s the local town band or Paul McCartney- they draw quite the variety of great music acts. Plan a stop in, bring your dancin’ boots, and enjoy a strong drink. The saloon is located in Pioneertown which was built in the 40′s to be an Old West movie set. Don’t miss a stroll through the main street for a taste of “the wild west.”

The jewel in the crown of the area is the national park itself. Don’t miss a stop in. Pack a lunch and spend a day there. You’ll feel like you took a portal to Mars a bit. It’s a combination of two desert systems, so you get to see a variety of landscape as well as the beautiful Joshua Trees the area is named for. Keys View is a great vista to spy the Coachella Valley and the great San Andreas Fault with a wheelchair accessible footpath. 

There is a ton of great hiking and nature trails. Hike early on hot days and bring plenty of water. Some hikes can be confusing on paths where  it’s all dirt- so be mindful to keep your wits about you and stay on the trail. A favorite, moderate hike is Ryan Mountain. It’s a satisfying 90 minute hike up to the summit of a mountain. You can sneak it in before the day gets too warm and the path is easy to see. 

My new favorite nature trail is Barker Dam. I was shocked to see actual water in the park, although I wouldn’t want to swim in it. However it is very photogenic. The trail features great flora and even some pictographs. Also it’s a good quick hike- you can do it in an hour and it’s a circuit.

Don’t miss scrambling on the rocks a bit. It’s a playground for rock climbers, but also anyone with good shoes and some gumption. Just keep an eye out for wildlife and your own balance. Also it’s prime stargazing country and park often has programs for those who want to stare into the heavens. 

Plan ahead and get tickets for a sound bath at the Integratron. They sell out well ahead of time and don’t count on getting last minute tickets. It’s a special experience and incredibly relaxing. The site itself is dotted with hammocks and wind chimes- it will leave you vibrating high. I like to make an appointment for Sunday on my way home. It’s a lovely way to end your experience in this powerful desert oasis. 

Nearby pop into La Copine- the tastiest restaurant in the middle of nowhere and conveniently located near the Integraton. There’s often a little wait- but don’t let that stop you from pulling in to inquire.

For cheap pool access, hit Desert Hot Springs Spa on your way back to the 10 freeway. For $10, cheap drinks and no frills food- you get access to hot and cold mineral pools all day. It’s very unpretentious and is clearly where the locals hang. If you’re looking for a cushy spa, go elsewhere. This spot has not been updated much since Elvis and Marilyn Monroe hung out there. But, if you’re in no rush- it’s a fun stop and you might luck out and get a band that covers Better Than Ezra. 

Folks often think the desert is a desolate place, but it couldn’t be further from the truth. It’s teaming with life and vibrancy. It’s something you can only experience when you visit. Stay hydrated, wear your sunscreen, and breathe deeply. A trip to Joshua Tree will renew your spirit, bring you closer to nature, and allow your playful side to emerge.

*most pictures used in my blog were taken by myself or ZN Lupetin. This blog features additional work by Becca Murray and one by Chrissy Maron.

Becca also took my cover photo.

Updated 4/10/18.