sorayaadventures-blog

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Wiesbaden - A Winter Wonderland

The next day we took an early train to Wiesbaden. As I was leaving the train station, I remember wondering if it was going to be worth the visit for it initially struck me as “just another city”. As we kept on walking towards the city center, we arrived at this beautiful allée –called Adolfsallee– framed by snowy trees and ornamented with frozen fountains – all the prior thoughts were forgotten.

We continued down this street and got to Luisenplatz. This square, which hosts the church of Saint Bonifatius, was so calm, peaceful and powdered in white. The best part: having it practically to ourselves (when I say practically it’s because we shared a lovely moment with a flock of pigeons) with that beautiful gothic church in the background, boasting its two tall and lean bell towers.

After our pigeon-related fun and walking through downtown Wiesbaden, we found ourselves at the Marktplatz, where we were surrounded by Renaissance revival and gothic styles: the Rathaus with its pink façade and beautifully patterned roof tiles and the magnificent red-brick Marktkirche. This architectural bonanza definitively made the Christmas market there much more enjoyable. Following our expedition, we reached Wilhelmstrasse which, to our surprise, was quite gusty but did not wear off our determination to discover what else the city had to offer. Walking up this street we got to this open space completely buried in snow, it didn’t matter to which corner you looked at: it was all white, white, white! Bowling Green is a park with two fountains (quite perilous, even for such a cautious traveler as myself – I’ll explain later), joining the Kurhausplatz, the Stadt Theater, the Wiesbaden Kurhaus and its Casino. The buildings surrounding the park display a neo-classical style with some elements of art nouveau and Belle Époque (I don’t know if you’ve noticed so far, but I’m an architecture enthusiast), and frame the park so exquisitely, particularly since everything was pristine white, this view was one of my favorites from this trip.

We learned this space hosts concerts when the weather is friendlier – I’m sure it would be great to experience one! Maybe it was all that snowy beauty, but I suddenly got in a very playful mood and decided to start throwing snow at my mom and sister (confession time: I’m the bully in the family), but one of the fountains would soon snap me back into my senses; I -smartly or stupidly- opted to step on its edge and… my foot slipped! I was oh so very close to falling into the frozen water I think my mother almost got a heart attack.

Getting back to a more serious mood, we went into the Kurhaus Casino and it was truly something: high ceilings, marble-covered walls, amazing chandeliers and a wonderful Christmas tree coated in red flowers decorating the middle of the main hall. This casino is notable for allowing one of the highest roulette bets in Germany and, it is said, this is where Dostoyevsky received inspiration for his novel, The Gambler.

After exiting the casino from its back door, we encountered the Kurpark, where we took a long, leisurely walk just absorbing its wintery peace, its beautiful green hues subdued by snow and the sound of the water shoot on the Salzbach stream. Following our lovely walk, we randomly walked to find ourselves on Wilhelmstrasse again and on our way back to the train station to close out our escapade in Germany.

For anyone interested in exploring Christmas markets, I would totally recommend this adventure for the holidays. There are many places and markets to see, a lot of food to try and beautiful settings awaiting. Our day trip approach felt very comfortable, as we avoided carrying our luggage around and allowed us to visit more places in less time, and having such an efficient train system as they do in Germany certainly simplifies things. Just do some research on the destinations you’re keen on seeing and lay out your transportation plans. I, for one, can’t wait to discover more Christmas markets! Perhaps in Eastern Europe next time?

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A Stopover in Bonn

Upon arrival at Bonn’s main station, our first objective was to leave our luggage in a locker and commence our day. Our welcome to Bonn was marked by a stairwell gallantly covered by some street art and graffiti. One that really caught my attention was that of a skull wearing a wizard´s hat and the legend “Vanitas”; I really appreciated the satire on today’s views on beauty and material possessions. 

After a short walk on Poststrasse, we found Bonn’s Christmas market in Münsterplatz, one of Bonn’s largest squares, which hosts the former post office, a monument to Beethoven and several department stores such as the Galeria Kaufhof. The offerings of the Christmas market were quite like those of Frankfurt except here we found a tall wooden tower riddled with hand-made wooden figurines with some large blades on top, a beacon of Christmas spirit.

Within the market, I again found what had already become a personal favorite: romantic cookies! Since, at this point, it was close to lunchtime, I ventured to find something savory to get warmed up. I found an old favorite I had known years before in Budapest: goulasch. They served the stew inside some onion bread and it had a home-cooked meal feel to it; the perfect combination for that grey and cold day. Of course, this meal was followed by some more caramelized nuts because, you know, a sweet tooth never dies.

A walk along Remigiusstrasse led us to Bonn’s Markplatz, where we found the Rathaus, fashioning a gorgeous Rococo façade, with a beautiful staircase ornamented with a black balustrade, with hints of gold, leading to its door. In that same square, we saw some stands selling fresh produce: from broccoli to pineapples, and to carrots to bananas. It was an interesting contrast (at least for me, coming from a warm country like Mexico) for they reminded me of produce markets back home, except you would never find someone selling those kinds of products outdoors at such low temperatures.

A bit off the Marktplatz, a street caught my attention; it was decorated with hanging, lit stars across the way and, to my later surprise, we had arrived at Sternstrasse (the road of stars)! This quaint little pedestrian street was full of shops and a busy social spot, too.

One of our must-sees in the city, inspired by classical music, was just a sharp left away: the birth house of Beethoven. The composer’s former abode is located on Bonngasse street, it’s a small house, featuring a baroque front, and hosts the museum, which houses the largest Beethoven collection in the world. The collection includes portraits, manuscripts, music sheets and instruments, giving great insight into the artist’s life and work. It’s a rather short tour, but I was amazed by the beautiful XVIII century pianos, violins and other instruments… just to think that Beethoven himself had roamed those halls!

After our classical-music inspired stop, we headed to Bonn’s Cathedral. I was quite excited to see it, but sadly, it was under renovations so a big portion of it was covered up and we couldn’t go inside. However, we did visit its cluster and it had such a mysterious air around it… I couldn’t put my finger on it or perhaps it’s just me – I have a thing for gothic clusters and corridors. This marked the end of our day. All in all, I really enjoyed my short stay in Bonn: beautiful architecture and very polite people!

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Christmas in Cologne

We finally made it to Cologne. As we were stepping outside the train station, I was talking to my sister about the logistics on getting to our hotel, when she suddenly stopped me and made me turn around… I went mute. There she was, the Kölner Dom or Cologne’s Cathedral. It took my breath for nearly a minute. Spectacularly gothic and tall (a modest height of 157m). It could give the cathedrals in Paris, Reims or Milan a good run for their money. Simply magnificent!

We stayed at a quaint little boutique hotel near St. Kunibert’s Church so that was our first stop the next day. This is one of the twelve Romanesque churches built in Cologne, dating from the XIII century; it holds a very sober interior ornamented with statues, some stone carvings and an astounding stained glass behind the altar. Right after visiting the church, we marched on to the Hohenzollern Bridge, elongating over the Rhein, is the most heavily used bridge in Germany and house to the wall of “Love Padlocks”: thousands of locks (according to some quick research, there are over 40 thousand!) affixed to the bridge, each representing a couple honoring their love. These idyllic promises on top of a very enigmatic and gloomy day definitely set quite a romantic setting. Sure, makes you want to be there with that special someone, eh?

To shake that post-bridge nostalgic feeling, we set way towards some modern art at the Museum Ludwig. Being an art enthusiast myself, I was thrilled to discover a collection of such standards; works of pop art, abstract, expressionism… I relished the large selection of paintings by Picasso, Warhol and Liechtenstein, but my personal favorites were the works of German artists, Dix and Beckmann. During my visit, I learned this museum holds one of the largest Picasso collections in Europe; a museum up to the standards of the MOMA in New York or the Musée d’Orsay in Paris.

It was time to take a closer look at the Kölner Dom, at last! I never suspected its interior would surprise me as much as its exterior, but it did. I was truly blown away by the gorgeous gothic columns reaching to incredible heights, exquisite altarpieces bathed in gold and stained glass strutting all around. I went speechless. Unfortunately, hordes of other tourists were flooding the floor, but that certainly did not deter me from carrying on with my exploration. It had been a while since something had wowed me as much as Cologne’s cathedral. For architecture lovers, it’s worth the visit if only to get a glimpse of this beauty.

Close to the Dom we found the Christmas market at Alter Markt and, it was hands down the best one of all! The overall offering exceeded the one from our previous experiences and was quite larger and busier, too. After a couple of days of indulging in the gastronomic variety, I now focused on artisan products and was very amazed at the mastery of materials such as wood, fur and ceramics: loads of lovely souvenirs were to be found.

On top of that, the decorations proved superior: lit wreathes suspended from stand to stand, hanging stars, loads of Christmas trees and, more specially, a huge net of Christmas lights floating on top of the center of the market creating a blanket of stars above our heads. Gorgeous.

Our point of entry into the city center would be the Hohenzollern bridge and we came across this modern and metallic building with an ample esplanade and the cathedral completing the frame in the background. As we attempted to walk through this open space, what seemed to be a security guard, swiftly approached me and asked us not to set foot in it… At this point I wasn’t quite sure as to what had been my wrong-doing; it was seconds later that we discovered that Cologne’s philharmonic was right beneath our feet! In order not to disturb the performance in course, these ushers ask people to go around the esplanade.

Funnily enough, a few meters away, right outside the Römisch-Germanisches Museum, we found a little concert of our own! This amazing accordion quartet was playing some classical pieces out in the open, bringing quite a crowd together.

Our last hours in Cologne were upon us, the night got gloomier and, as we were heading back to our hotel, we got a last glimpse of the Kölner Dom half covered by fog. Pure magnificence fading into the sky. The perfect farewell.

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A Daytrip to Rural Germany

After a delightful first day in Germany, it was time to delve deeper into the country. We parted from Frankfurt on to our next stop: Michelstadt. This is a small town near Heidelberg with a population of around 16 thousand; this destination was chosen by my sister, who wanted to get a glimpse of rural Germany and step a bit away from city life. After having my mandatory latte and a slice of Frankfurter Kranz –we were on holidays, after all–, we got on a train for our first daytrip.

On a side note: when buying the tickets, we all thought they were a bit pricy for a regional train but we thought we didn’t have much of an option, right? It was only halfway to Michelstadt that this very kind lady who was validating the tickets pointed out how naïve we had been… Apparently, we could have gotten a group tariff and paid only a third of what we had paid originally! Talk about language barriers and early mornings… such a rookie mistake!

Past the whole train ticket fiasco, I was amazed by this train we were on. Even though it was a regional train connecting small urbanizations in southern Hesse, it was still a very hectic travel: loads of people coming on and off and continuous stops. After such a busy commute, we finally arrived at Michelstadt! During my first footsteps on the town nothing really caught my eye and, on top of that, we encountered ghastly weather, it was a very cold, grey and rainy day … So, the one thought going through my mind was “what on earth am I doing here?”, but as we went in deeper, we discovered quaint streets with beautiful German architecture, it was so picturesque and so quiet – it was as if no one lived there, a tiny ghost town.

After a couple of minutes walking, we made a turn and boom! The entire town was out on their little Christmas market without any regard for the light rain falling on our heads. Once again, the market did not disappoint, flaunting very pretty Christmas decorations; we came across lovely regional products such as cold cuts, fur, wooden figurines, ceramics and message cookies! Again. (Sort of proving my point about romanticism during the holidays). 

In contrast with Frankfurt, not many people spoke English and my German is beyond basic, so communicating with locals sure was fun. Finding a place to eat proved a bit challenging, after roaming around for a bit we found a charming bistro and decided to check it out. To continue with the language barrier fun, no one in the restaurant spoke English –or any other language besides German– and, of course, the menu was only in German… it was an interesting Google translate exercise. I opted for a pork in mushroom sauce which was remarkable!

After quenching our hunger, we aimed for our final stroll around the market and, in the very last corner, we ran into one of the best surprises from this trip: Slippery Mike. Slippery Mike is a one-man band playing the banjo, a trumpet, bells, a harmonica… The entire square was being entertained by the cool, country stylings of Mike. It reminded me a lot of the cartoons I watched as a kid – a moment I definitely won’t forget. After a very relaxed day, we headed back to Frankfurt for the night, we had another big day ahead of us but, this time, towards Wiesbaden.

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Frankfurt’s Christmas Markets

After an effortless arrival and exit from the Frankfurt airport, we arrived at our hotel in Bahnhofsviertel, right next to the main train station and a 10-minute walk away from downtown Frankfurt. Staying so close to the Haubtbahnhof came in handy, especially considering our day trips approach. It had been years since my last visit to Germany and I was quite surprised that German was not the first language I heard, nor the second, nor the third – languages such as English, Arabic or some Slavic languages (which I am not familiar with) were the first ones to catch my ears. It wasn’t until after a couple of hours that I actually heard the first German words out of anyone (talk about globalization).

We decided to start exploring the city and aimed for the main reason that had brought us to Germany: our very first Christmas market! Once we stepped outside our hotel, Google Maps suggested two routes: one through the city center and another one along the Main river; we opted for the latter. Unknowingly for us, the river had a leisurely and peaceful stroll in store for us – it was chilly, empty and silent, nothing but beautiful reflections scintillating on the water.

As we slowly approached downtown, the city gradually became livelier and livelier, until we took a turn and found Frankfurt’s Christmas market! The market is in Römerberg, a beautiful square with wooden buildings flaunting typical German architecture which would make anyone think of olden fairytales. It was filled with Christmas decorations and many stands offering a wide variety of different foods and beverages, ranging from sausages to crepes, and beer to warm wine; such a rapture getting caught by all the scents filling the air. It was a very hot social scene too, everyone from children to grownups were there enjoying snacks and drinks despite the cold; the contrast between this sight and the one of the river was quite remarkable. While getting the full market treatment, I decided to explore the wide gastronomic offering and I was delighted to encounter some sausages, one of my all-time German favorites and, once again, they did not disappoint – there is just something about eating currywurst in the cold that fills my heart with joy. After satisfying my savory craving I ventured into the world of sweets, where I found an amazing stand selling loads of pralines, caramelized almonds, hazelnuts, macadamia nuts… you name it! They were so crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside and so flavorful, a great treat for those of us with a sweet tooth. Simply sublime! As we continued to discover the market, I stumbled upon a cookie stand. There were hundreds of cookies with all kinds of loving messages such as: “I miss you”, “Kiss me”, “I love you” … I guess Christmas brings out people’s inner romantic.

After we decided it was enough food for the night, we continued to explore the city. Just a few steps away from Römerberg, we stumbled upon Frankfurt’s cathedral (or the Imperial Cathedral of Saint Bartholomew, to be more formal) and little did we know, a big surprise was in store for us. The Frankfurter Dom boasts a tall, gothic bell tower in a very peculiar mauve-toned stone, which looked quite dramatic with its night lighting. Once we opted to venture into this XIV century monument, we found our surprise. Because of the holidays, there was a festival of lights within the church; some volunteers were handing out candles to place wherever you wanted, a souvenir that created long and alluring candle-made aisles wherever the eye could see, the walls were beautifully lit in pink and purple hues, and a quartet was playing heavenly classical music. All of these elements together provided –at least for me– an outer body experience; got me reflecting on how fortunate I was for being at that church right then and there and gave me this enormous feeling of gratitude – very appropriate for the holidays, eh?

Before calling it a night, I decided to take one last walk through the city center and, walking by the European Central Bank, I saw the Euro sign sculpture glowing in blue and yellow. Made me reflect on the uncertainty in Europe regarding everything that has been happening lately with Brexit, the independence movement in Catalonia… Gladly, my night ended on a more positive note: I was thrilled to see some gay and lesbian couples displaying their affection openly and freely – I found this to be inspiring and a true confirmation as to how far we’ve come on human rights despite the great challenges humankind is facing in every front.

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The German Christmas Experience

For our next blog series.... we are going to join Jaime, a Mexican with a creative spirit and laid back vibe, as he paves his way through the very special and festive Christmas markets of Germany. 

Dear Soraya readers, I am thrilled to be writing about my Christmas holiday travels for you!

After having spent a year abroad in Madrid, my family decided to visit and plan a trip for the week before Christmas. Choosing a destination proved a bit complicated. Firstly, all three of us (my mother, sister and I) share very different traveling interests. While I am a whatever-comes-my-way explorer, my sister is more into shopping and food, and my mother is all about comfort. Secondly, we all wanted to go somewhere new so this did not help simplify our selection process. Just to give you an idea, we discussed visiting the south of Spain, northern Italy, Austria, Croatia or even Scotland. Still, somehow, we were not all convinced with our options. It wasn’t until one fortunate day, since the holidays were just around the corner, that my mother thought of visiting Christmas markets – and what a brilliant idea! None of us had been to southwestern Germany so this is how we chose this as our destination. After some research on the area, several cities caught our attention so we thought it would be best to choose two of them as “bases” and just take little daytrips by train. Our final selection was: Frankfurt, Michelstadt, Wiesbaden, Bonn and Cologne. Finally, off we went!

Next week you will hear about my Christmas market adventures in Frankfurt. Let the lovely Christmas holiday traditions and festivities begin!

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The Island of the Gods

Known as “The Island of the Gods,” Bali is one of 17,500 islands that comprise the Indonesian archipelago. A dominant force in the tourism industry, this rather small island of 2,230 square miles received more tourists than its own population in 2017 (Bali population: approximately 3.9 million / Tourists visiting Bali: over 5 million). So, what is the attraction?

Could it be the diverse landscape that transitions with ease from mountain ranges and active volcanoes to wild jungles and waterfalls, to green valleys and lakes to its stunning white sand beaches and blue ocean? Could it be its world renowned surf culture, yoga retreats, famous religious and music festivals, ancient temples, international and local restaurant options, trendy bar/club scene, and its open-minded, friendly people? Or that it’s part of the Coral Triangle, which means Bali hosts the highest diversity of marine species on earth! Yup, now you get it…

Ready to dive into my new surroundings, I hired a personal driver to take me from my hotel in Canggu, Bali to the famous town of Ubud (made popular by the movie, Eat Pray Love). Of course, I had watched Julia Roberts’ Eat Pray Love movie before going on this trip. Which woman doesn’t think she’ll stumble upon a ruggedly handsome Javier Bardem while strolling through this tropical island…. I was ready!

Just kidding! I was fully focused on “me time.” But, for those of you who are fabulously single out there… Bali does offer plenty of opportunities to meet interesting people from all over the world ;)

Ok, back to the important stuff… the drive to Ubud was an hour and a half from my hotel. My first stop was at a coffee and tea plantation called Bali Pulina Agro Tourism. Here, you can enjoy a tour of the plantation and a wonderful tasting of their vast coffee and tea options. Plus, I couldn’t leave the plantation without trying Bali’s famous Kopi Luwak coffee (aka weasel poop coffee!). It was not my favorite, but it was a must do. Meanwhile, I thoroughly enjoyed the mangosteen tea, lemon tea and coconut coffee.

Then, I made it over to the Ubud Art Market and a silver jewelry making workshop. Here, you can stock up on inexpensive and delightful hand crafted souvenir gifts for your family and friends back home.

My next visit was to the vibrant and lush rice paddy fields of Ubud; hills of vibrant green fields and palm trees were highlighted by the gorgeous blue skyline. To enjoy this view for a while longer, I randomly picked a restaurant that offered a view of the rice paddy fields. There, I enjoyed my curry dish while staring off into the mesmerizing paddy fields.

Bali also has several ancient temples that are worth visiting. I have to admit that after seeing Cambodia’s temples, this was no comparison. But, Bali’s temples are striking in unique ways, and therefore, are not to be missed. For example, the Ulun Danu Beratan Temple is a serene temple that sits on the Baratan lake, engulfed by the lake and a dreamy mountain range in the background. There’s also the Uluwatu Temple, which as seen below, provides spectacular views of the ocean as its waves crash into the rugged cliffs. The view from the Uluwatu temple was even more beautiful than the temple itself.

Now, as to beaches… probably the main reason you came here in the first place. Be forewarned though, I was surprised by the large amounts of garbage I found on some of its beaches - a tragic consequence of the island’s sizable tourism; a reminder that responsible tourism and respect for nature is key if we want to continue to enjoy these pristine beaches.

Ok… with so many options of beautiful beaches to choose from, it is hard to pick just one to camp out at for several days so start off by bouncing from beach to beach until you find the right fit for you. A popular surfer’s destination, Kuta Beach, is where you will find the masses as it is also spacious and great for those looking to sit back, relax and lounge (like me). If you’re a more serious surfer, a drive over to Balian’s black sandy beaches to ride the waves is worth the trip. You could also venture over to the Padang Padang Beach in Uluwatu (this beach is near the Uluwatu temple, which you can visit before or after sun bathing) and Blue Point Beach (stop by the Single Finn restaurant, which sits at the edge of a cliff so you can gaze at the ocean below and watch the surfers in action). Lastly, enjoy a kayak or paddleboard ride at Geger Beach, which is located next to the fancy St. Regis Hotel and an 18-hole golf course. This is just a head start on beach bumming in Bali. Feel free to rent a car or scooter to cruise the island and explore its other hidden beach gems to ensure you return home with that beautiful golden, sun-kissed Bali tan. 

And for those of you who are seeking more Bali activities, check out The Crazy Tourist’s list of the 55 best things to do:

https://www.thecrazytourist.com/55-best-things-bali-indonesia/

I sincerely hope that the last 6 posts about my Southeast Asia adventure inspired you to travel solo someday. Traveling alone will be one of the most intimidating, exhilarating, life changing experience in your life. Challenge yourself to do it at least once. I hear you saying… “challenge accepted!”

Thanks for listening to my journey  :) 

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A Wandering Spirit’s Paradise

Bali… is a mixture of surfers, yogi’s, chic bohemians, health and wellness experts, and burnt out professionals seeking a more relaxing lifestyle; it’s a mecca of wandering spirits alongside the local Balinese. In the touristic areas of Indonesia’s most popular island, Bali, you will find an expansive international ensemble ranging from Australians, Chinese, Japanese, Europeans, Americans, Malaysians, Koreans and so on. All that diversity makes this place even more exciting and dynamic! You’ll never know who you’ll meet next.

But, most importantly, look at the picture above. Yes, look at it again. Relaxing, isn’t it? This is what we vacationers view Bali to be. And it can be exactly that. All that and more.

Because it is such a touristic destination, hotel options are endless. And since I have a hippie spirit, I knew I wanted to stay at an eco-conscious resort. You know… one of those that grows its own food produce on site, carefully sources its local furnishings, hires local people, promotes a community spirit, and even donates some of the money from your stay to community projects. And I found all of this at the Desa Seni Village Resort. [photo of my bungalow and the resort’s garden below]

It was nice to know that my dollars were going to an accommodation that was conscientious of the environment and made deliberate efforts towards sustainability. The hotel was certainly not cheap, but it was worth every penny. It was a truly magical, tropical destination…

and one of my favorite things about my Bali trip. I know that sounds bad because Bali of course has a lot of things to offer other than awesome resorts. But, the whole point of my trip to Bali was to relax…

unwind in my adorable and spacious wooden bungalow, read on my front porch, lounge by the tropical pool, go to the wellness spa (and do exotic treatments like the Balinese boreh massage, acupuncture, a leaf body wrap, and a Balinese cleansing ceremony), take up some interesting yoga/meditation activities, eat delicious Indonesian food, cruise around the island, lay on the beach, and grab drinks at swanky beach bars.

And that’s exactly what I did. No strenuous activities were allowed. Just relaxation…

If this is what you are looking for on your next trip, I recommend checking out one of Bali’s many resorts so that you can also create your own version of a relaxing oasis getaway. But, there’s more to Bali. Next week, I’ll tell you about some of my other Bali highlights.

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The Unforgettable Land of Temples

The country may be poor, but its treasures are even more beautiful than some can dream up.

I won’t do a travel post about Cambodia without talking about its main attraction. Temples! So many remarkable temples. 

First and foremost, I felt at peace when I was traveling in Cambodia. I don’t know if it had something to do with its inspiring temples or the Buddhist religion that is followed by over 90% of Cambodians. Although I was raised and consider myself Catholic, I find the Buddhist religion fascinating. I enjoyed watching the serene monks walking by with their shaved heads and orange colored robes. The country and the people I met along the way exuded a sense of goodwill and that beautiful sentiment was present throughout.

In two days, I visited over 10 awe inspiring temples. I started with the most famous - Angkor Wat - which means “City of Temples” and is believed to be the largest religious monument in the world (measuring over 400 acres). It was built by the Khmer empire in the 12th century and dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu. Because it was the first temple I saw, I was taken aback… in awe of the mystical stone structure, its enchanting entrance with a wide moat and walking bridge, and of course, its sheer size. “Any architect would thrill at the harmony of the fasade, an unbroken stretch of repeated pillars leading from the far angles of the structure to the central opening, which is dominated, by three imposing towers with broken summits.” [To learn more about the architecture and meaning behind this symbolic masterpiece, visit the link below.] 

 http://www.tourismcambodia.com/attractions/angkor/angkor-wat.htm

My personal favorite was Banteay Srei (below), a Hindu temple that begun in AD 967 and was dedicated to Shiva. Although one of the smallest sites in Angkor, Banteay Srei was beautiful and delicate. Featuring a unique pinkish hue with detailed designs throughout, there was an incandescence and femininity that attracted my attention.

The temple was aptly named Banteay Sri, which means “Citadel of the Women,” and according to local folklore, this temple must have been built by a female because the sophisticated carvings are too intricate for the hand of a man. Hmmm... I believe it ;) I spent almost two hours exploring the different crevices of this fascinating temple, wherein I would find monkey statutes, lotus flowers, peaks, columns, inscriptions and elaborate designs imprinted onto the structures.

To complete my exploration of Siem Reap, I also managed to visit the following temples: Banteay Samre, East Mebon, Pre Rup, Preah Khan, Banteay Kdei, Ta Prohm, Bakong, Lolei and Preak Ko. If you like architecture or appreciate art in any way, a trip to Siem Reap will inspire you, as it did me. As they say, “pictures are worth a thousand words.” My words won’t do it justice so here are just a few photos that illustrate its beauty:

Better yet, go see it for yourself...   

visit Cambodia.

[sorayaadventures-blog]

Decorated with our Smiles

To visit Cambodia and forget that trip seems impossible to me. This country was one of the biggest surprises of all my travels to date. I could not believe the incredible structures that were hidden in this rather small and ignored country of Asia. When I selected Cambodia for this trip, my thought process was that it was close to Vietnam and I knew it was supposed to have some cool temples so… why not stop by? Turns out that Cambodia was the highlight of this Southeast Asia trip. It’s no surprise that the London guy I met here had 2 friends who fell in love with the country and ended up moving there.

The Cambodian adventure begins: on this colorful and elaborately decorated purple bus, I crossed over to Phnom Penh (the capital and most populous city of Cambodia) while gaining a sense of the vibrant country I was entering,

then checked into the Angkor Paradise Hotel where I relished in gorgeous sunrise views from the hotel’s chic pool lounge rooftop,

then quickly jet off to start my next journey. Since it was conveniently located close to my hotel, I started my day off by visiting the country’s Royal Palace where the kings of Cambodia have resided since the 1860’s (except during the Khmer Regime time frame). At the Royal Palace, I enjoyed pristine and freshly manicured gardens that surrounded a complex of temple-like buildings with ornate gold yellow peaks on top.  

As a visitor at the Royal Palace, we are allowed entry into the Silver Pagoda and the central compound, which houses the Throne Hall and Chan Chhaya Pavilion; the remaining half of the palace consists of the King’s living area and is closed off for privacy.

After staring at the sun kissed gold towering spires and mural paintings at the Royal Palace, I embarked on yet another sad history lesson (see my Vietnam post last week for the first sad history lesson of this trip). Although history was never my favorite subject in school… as a visitor to their beautiful country, I wanted to learn more about Cambodia’s recent history. This way, I could understand the country better.

Led by the infamous Pol Pot, the Khmer regime of 1975-1978 was an extremely dark era of Cambodian history, wherein a mass genocide took the lives of many ethnic minority groups. Recognized as one of the worst mass killings in the 20th century, this genocide claimed the lives of approximately 2 million people. This means that about one third of Cambodia’s population (at the time) was eliminated.

To further comprehend this tragic history, I visited the Genocide Museum and then the Killing Fields, where over 10,000 people were executed by the Khmer regime. Pol Pot and his followers did not only attack (and kill) millions of people in Cambodia, they also destroyed its cultural artifacts, including over 90% of Cambodia’s Buddhist temples. 

As a positive, Cambodia’s resurgence nowadays is a testament to how resilient people are when they come together. Despite the Khmer regime’s destruction of numerous temples, Cambodia still boasts over 4,000 monastery temples (Buddhism being the country’s main and official religion). Plus, the country is currently receiving over five million tourists a year. Next week I will show you how stunning the temples of Cambodia are and why they are attracting the attention of millions of tourists each year.

I also discovered that Cambodia’s other gem is its kind people… people that welcome you with their smiles despite their meager circumstances. And to illustrate this, I leave you with a beautiful quote that was written on the wall of a shack restaurant that I randomly stopped at for lunch… the food was pretty good, but it was the smile that made all the difference.  

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Saigon’s Sultry Lively Streets

Change of profession! I became a snake charmer in Vietnam… or the snake was charming me? Either way, it was an adventure. But, don’t tell my mom because she has a huge fear of snakes!

Formerly known as Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City was once the capital of a French colony and of the independent republic of South Vietnam. As the largest city in Vietnam (with a population of over 8 million), I found the streets of this hot and humid city filled with street vendors, people, bicycles, cars and endless motorbikes. Some of the worn-out motorbikes would carry as many as 5 people on it – mother, father, two children and a baby! Impressive and shocking!

After settling into my hotel, the Nothern Hotel, I set out to explore the city and quickly noticed how much I stood out. I was one of the very few Westerners wandering the streets and I looked funny trying to dodge the motorbikes that would cruise along the sidewalks as if they were streets too. Speaking with the locals was certainly a challenge as English was not widely spoken, which made my exploration of the surroundings all that more interesting and challenging! 

Somehow, I found my way back to the hotel and made my first friend of the trip. It was an older guy who told me about the cooking class he signed up for. I was intrigued so I signed up too! Vietnamese food was one of my biggest draw to this exotic country. 

The next day, I showed up at the cutest cooking school, called Grain, ready to whip it up.

The teacher, David, made me look way better than I’m used to in the kitchen: we prepared delectable pumpkin flowers filled with prawns,

a refreshing chicken salad paired with a glass of white wine,

and steamed seabass in a banana leaf.

A self-proclaimed dessert fiend, the next step was crucial - dessert consisted of a delicious coconut flan and coffee sweetened up with condensed milk. (Fun fact: Vietnam is the 2nd largest exporter of coffee world-wide). Looking back, David’s cooking class at Grain was by far my favorite activity in Ho Chi Minh. Even if you do not squeeze a cooking class into your schedule, don’t hesitate to hit up one of the food markets or one the city’s many fine restaurants where you take in the delicious fresh scents of mint, cilantro, lemongrass, bird’s eye chili, ginger, lime, and basil. 

After the fun Grain cooking class, the next portion of my Vietnam trip consisted of a very serious history lesson, especially for an American. On separate days, I visited the War Remnants Museum and the haunting Cu Chi Tunnels used by the Viet-Cong in the 1960’s. If you’re a history buff, make these part of your itinerary.  

During my visit of the War Remnants Museum, there were 2 images that struck a chord and left a lasting impression on me. First, is the photograph below where you see a smiling young girl holding her father’s hand through a cage-like enclosure. During the war, this 21-year-old girl was contaminated by Agent Orange, condemning her to a life behind these bars; the devastating consequences of Agent Orange caused a deformity, which makes her chew and swallow anything within her grasp. This was just one of many shattering images displayed along the museum’s walls.

As a big believer of the motto “make love not war,” it is always hard for me to imagine what could possibly land countries in a situation with such unnecessary losses of sacred lives. From the simple chart below, I quickly learned how drastic the effects of the Vietnam War was on this small country; compared to the Korean War for example, the Vietnam War ended with almost double the amount of deaths, 3 times the amount of wounded people, and expended over 5 times the amount of bombs and artillery shells. 

After taking in the damaging aspects of Vietnam’s recent war history, I headed to Can Tho (the 2nd largest city in South Vietnam) to drift through the city’s floating markets. There, I found, mud-colored rivers decorated with shabby wooden boats that were full of tasty local fruits and vegetables.

Happy to partake in a lighter activity than the day before, I enjoyed observing the hard-working Vietnamese ladies and men, in their adorable triangle straw hats, as they whisked by us tourists in hopes of making a big sale.

To wrap up… although I found it challenging to get around the country because of the transportation difficulties (as Vietnam’s infrastructure still has a long way to go), to meet locals (due to the language barrier) and the 2 cities I chose to visit aren’t particularly known for being pretty to look at, I applaud Vietnam’s fresh cuisine and am now an even bigger fan of their food. When I get the chance to return, I will take the opportunity to explore the country’s more traditional beautiful cities and areas, such as Hanoi, Hoi An and Ha Long Bay.

Next week, I take you over to the unforgettable land of temples... 

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Solo Travel Adventures & Why You Should Do It

Eager to explore new places, I am always contemplating my next trip. 

Dear Soraya readers, after hearing from several of our lovely guest writers, I am baaack… and now I’m going to share with you one of my very special adventures. For those people that know me well, they know that I can be quite impatient, especially when I’m passionate and determined to do something. So… when I’m itching to travel or explore somewhere new, I tell my family and friends; if no one is available when I’m fired up to go, I’m prepared to go at it alone.

Traveling solo is an adventure in itself. It’s uncomfortable and comfortable at the same time. It’s limiting and freeing. It’s lonely yet also full of opportunities. And it’s always exhilarating. Are you ready??

This time, I wanted to head somewhere new and different… and I was going to do it solo. Based on these next photos, can you guess where I ended up?

The temple filled land of Cambodia!

For a long time, I have been a big lover of Asian cuisine, everything from Japanese to Thai to Indonesian to Vietnamese. Speaking of Vietnamese food… I looove Pho soup! And the country seemed so exotic; I didn’t know much about it and I didn’t know many people who had been there. So why not check out what it had to offer? This is how easily my obsession with visiting Vietnam began. But, I wasn’t going to fly all the way over to Southeast Asia to only visit Vietnam. It had to be a package deal; hence, I threw in its fascinating neighbor, Cambodia, and a relaxing finale at a hippie eco-resort in Indonesia.

There I was… all mapped out and ready for an exotic solo adventure!!

Excited for the challenges that traveling solo brings and already a big fan of my alone time, the general thought was that traveling solo would give me more alone time. Wrong! It doesn’t necessarily. If you’re out and about seeing things, then you’re constantly amongst people and it’s easy to meet people if you want to.

Trust me, I’m perfectly comfortable with sitting alone in a restaurant eating a meal or reading a book outdoors… see photo below showing exactly both of those things while I was overlooking the rice paddy fields in Indonesia (note: the adorable cat standing next to my book).

But at the same time, I am a social butterfly when in my groove. Yes, I just said the word “groove.” So, whenever it feels right, I enjoy sparking up conversations with random people.

Lucky for me, it would usually turn into an awesome, memorable conversation. For example, I once struck a short, but sweet conversation with a random guy that I asked to take my photo while visiting a temple. He told me he was from London and was visiting 2 of his old college roommates. It turns out his college friend came to Cambodia the year before, fell in love with the country, went back to London to pack up his stuff and moved to Cambodia! Wait. The story doesn’t end there. Then, their other friend, another young London lawyer from their Three Musketeers’ group (ok, I just made that up… they didn’t actually call themselves that), went to visit this dude in Cambodia, also fell in love with the country and moved out to Cambodia as well!

While I did not move to Cambodia at the end of this trip, I must say that it’s beautiful to hear how much a trip can transform people’s lives. This is why you should travel solo at least once in your life – you get to go with the flow and allow the unexpected to happen, get taken outside of your comfort zone, learn new life lessons, and even hold random conversations with amazing people along the way.

So, here I go, at the start of my Vietnam journey where I encountered one of my biggest struggles of traveling solo… taking my own photos! Seriously… exactly what was I hoping to capture here?!?

It was clear that I had not mastered the selfie skills yet. Maybe it gets better as my trip goes on. I hope you agree…. See you next week as I take you through my memorable Vietnam adventures.

and more importantly, the country’s delicious fresh food :) 

[sorayaadventures-blog]

Beast Mode: Off

It’s been a whirlwind on this Rowdy Guide, so to wind it down I suggest you spend a glorious day at the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel. Close your pretty little eyeballs, take 3 deep breaths in as I guide you on this journey to relaxation.

First – and most importantly – be sure to snag a reservation for afternoon tea service. It’s the most decadent tea experience you will have and is not to be missed even if you think you don’t like tea.  

Once that is secured, make your way over to the spa for your appointment. Change into the comfy robe and slippers and settle in with a magazine in their relaxation room. The room is greenhouse chic, with floor-to-ceiling windows facing beautiful patio gardens and large potted plants, sunlit from the glass roof. Try (and fail) not to fall asleep waiting for your treatment as the calming music waves over you. 

Finally, an attendant gently calls your name and leads you back to the treatment rooms.

Whether you have a facial or massage, your experience is sure to melt away all the tension from a busy week of adventuring. You’ve earned this moment of bliss. Once you’ve been refreshed, be sure to avail yourself of the spa’s facilities. Don’t rush. There is still time before you have to be at your teatime. This is your moment of Zen. Relish it. Rejoin your equally refreshed friends before getting ready for tea.

Once you’ve dressed, make your way back to the main building for a life changing afternoon tea service. Upon entry, be greeted by a large table abounding with every dessert you can imagine. Oh yes, friends, this is all part of the tea service.

Some of your group will show no restraint and will have eaten a plate full of sweet treats before the first cup of tea has been poured. Who can blame them?

But you? You make your way to the gorgeous table set on the veranda and begin to peruse the extensive tea selections. Pick a local Rooibos tea to start. You can switch to a new tea at anytime.

A skilled server comes over with the savories – a tower of expertly prepared finger sandwiches and tartlets refilled on demand.  Come hungry… no come hangry… the tea will calm the nerves and the ever-filling plates are straight out of the Great Hall at Hogwarts.

Finally, your tea has steeped and you pour yourself that first cup of red, herbaceous Rooibos tea. The warmth washes over your whole body and you feel the final bits of tension fade away.

Every detail, every morsel, and every sip is utter perfection. Nothing has been missed. Inquire on the way out what the going rate is to move in permanently. Vow to win the lottery as you make your way to Camps Bay for your final South African sunset, already plotting your return.

TL; DR

Eat: Afternoon Tea at the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel – a decadent experience not to be missed

Treat Yo Self: To a spa service at the Belmond Mount Nelson

See: The sunset over Camps Bay either from the beach or with a cocktail at one of the many balcony restaurants

Stay: Here forever. Even if you can only afford to sleep on an outdoor lounge chair.

Pro Tip: Always end your vacation with a day of relaxation. It makes the long flights home more bearable.

[sorayaadventures-blog]

A Wine Lovers Tour of S.A.

Today my friends, we honor Bacchus (or Dionysus – if you prefer his Greek alter ego) with a pilgrimage to the Cape Winelands in search of South Africa’s famed Pinotage varietal. I would love to tell you that we are impeccably behaved ladies, but as you know this is the Rowdy Guide, so it gets a little messy.

There are three main towns in the Cape Winelands: Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl. While a day trip is perfectly acceptable, if I were to do it all again, I would definitely spend the night. These towns are absolutely darling and the accommodations in the Winelands are some of the plushest, most opulent around. Sadly, all we had time for on this visit was a drive-by and I would’ve loved to wander around a bit.

Our first stop was the Delaire Graff Estate. Set on the slopes of the Botmaskop Mountain, this venue brought the DRAMA.  From the gorgeous vistas, high ceilings and dramatic art, this place oozed luxury. If that isn’t enough, you can always grab a few diamonds at the on-site jeweler.

Our first tasting of the day didn’t bring any Pinotage, but this fabulous rosé more than made up for it. Several bottles may have made it back Stateside.

After taking at least 1,000 photos of the view, Leslie ushered us back to the van for our next tasting at Tokara. Tokara has a more bohemian, artsy vibe and the art takes center stage with interesting modern pieces around every corner.

Tokara’s tasting room has a lively atmosphere and the wall-length windows provide an unparalleled view of their vineyards and olive groves.  In addition to sampling their portfolio of wines, be sure to try their olive oils as well.  

We encountered our first Pinotage at Tokara, but the star of their offerings was the Director’s Reserve Red.

Leslie reminds us that once again we are running behind and we need to haul ass if we are going to make our lunch reservations at Babylonstoren.

We arrive, barely on time, for our reservation at Babel, the main restaurant at Babylonstoren – one of the oldest Cape Dutch farms. Their fruit, vegetable, and medicinal herb gardens are as storied as their wines. Once you step foot on the grounds you instantly have a sense of wellbeing. I highly recommend making a reservation at Babel as soon as you book your trip to S.A. For a more casual dining experience, the Greenhouse on site offers lighter fare in a stunning environment.

Be sure to reserve ample time for your lunch. It is a culinary journey starting with bread service that is so fancy - they put slices of dried candy cane beets on top of the butter pats. The appetizers called “Red,” “Yellow,” and “Green” encourage you to eat your colors as you taste the farms bounty.

You’re feeling pretty good at this point (or at least we were) – two wineries in and a brand new bottle arrived to complement our lovely lunch.  Giggles are becoming abundant and ridiculousness is starting to seep in.

Take a quick pause to indulge in their tea ritual – a pot of tea you customize from a bouquet of medicinal herbs from their Healing Garden. Your server will guide you to the right herbs to help cure what ails you have or to steel yourself against a hangover.  It also doubles as a gorgeous centerpiece for the table.

The main courses are equally impressive and fresh. Helpings are generous and the glass-enclosed restaurant lets light stream in and fill the restaurant with a glow. I am pretty sure this is how angels dine.

After such a marvelous repast, be sure to take a turn about the grounds. There is so much to explore and revel in. Besides, you need to walk off some of the day before you get to your final stop. And if you are us, this means an impromptu photo shoot and some rabble-rousing. Continue to be grateful that your awesome tour guide, Leslie, has the patience of Job and even participates in our shenanigans. We are definitely his favorites.

The last stop is at Warwick Winery. Warwick has a cozy outdoor patio from which to watch the gorgeous sunset. At this point you are basically on Cloud Nine, so it’s probably best to just sit a spell and take the tasting real slow. You’ll want to avoid any accidents, especially if you are wearing white pants.  Take a big sip of their wine called The Three Cape Ladies and wonder if they have room for 8 more. And don’t forget to say hey to Mr. Mandela.

TL;DR

Don’t Miss: A full day traipsing about the Winelands

See: The gorgeous sunset at Warwick

Skip: Wearing white pants. It’s a dangerous proposition on a daylong Bacchanalia

Eat: Lunch at Babel restaurant at Babylonstoren. Much of the food is grown on-site and just see what magic they bring you when you ask for a pot of tea.

Pro Tip: Make your lunch reservation at Babel the day you book your flight to S.A. It’s a hot ticket and you won’t want to miss it.

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Natural Wonders of Cape Town

South Africa is not short on breathtaking nature. Around every corner you’ll find sweeping vistas, bright azure waters, impossibly beautiful flowers and sculptural trees. Today we are exploring some of these natural wonders. Oh, and did I mention there will be penguins?

Table Mountain. The gorgeous flat-topped peak is visible from just about every part of Cape Town. There are two ways to summit it. The first is by cable car. The second is to hike up. Our group was divided, with half deciding last minute to leave before dawn for a sunrise hike. The wiser set slept in and went back to Truth for some more coffee before gliding up the side of the mountain.

The trouble with the seemingly innocuous hike up Table Mountain is that no one will tell you that there is some “light” bouldering involved. So when we arrived 3 hours after Troop Beverly Hills had left for their hike, our sweet guide, Leslie, immediately set out to find them at the summit. When after about 30 minutes he still hadn’t seen hide nor hair of them. He began to get a little antsy. “Surely, we will hear them before we see them” Lesile posed as he called down into the canyon without a response. Should your friends make the foolish choice to climb up the mountain with pretty much no provisions, it’s advised to bring a book.

Leslie deposited us at the top near the trail’s end and bounded down into the canyon in search of the rest of our group. Seriously, he is a gazelle. 5 minutes later he called up to us that they had been found. It would be another 30 minutes before our little lost girls made it to the top. In the meantime, make friends with these cute dassies. The closet relative to the elephant. Families are weird.

Finally, we are reunited and can take just a few photos before we head back down and start our road trip along Chapman’s peak. If you are into sending postcards, you can send one from the top of Table Mountain. There is a special post box that is just adorable.

The drive around Chapman’s Peak around Hout Bay down to Boulder’s Beach and then the Cape of Good Hope is one of the most stunning cruises you can take. You’ll have to resist the urge to pull over every 3 feet to take in the view.

If you’re lucky, you will have a patient guide, like Leslie, who will not only ensure you stop at all the best lookouts but also fully dive into any photo requests. If you are really lucky, you can have a full on photo shoot with some other friendly tourists you meet along the way.

By now you are ravenous, so be sure to stop in at Imhoff Farms. A cute, unassuming homestead that opens up to a gorgeous outdoor restaurant complete with stunning views of the mountains and live music. Luxuriate a moment in a long, languid lunch under the umbrellas. Every moment spent here will feel like something out of a Wes Anderson movie. Quirky, vibrant, and other-worldly.

Leslie has now gotten better at rounding us up and keeping us moving on our adventure. The time has come. We are going to meet penguins. I couldn’t have been more excited to see this tuxedoed flightless birds waddling around the beach and diving into the waves. Once you arrive at Boulder’s beach you will walk down a path through a market and gorgeous private homes before you finally make it to the winding boardwalk for your close encounter of the avian kind. Y’all! There were SO MANY FLUFFY BABY PENGUINS. It was adorable and I may have tried to abscond with one or four.

But our travels were not over yet and we were chasing daylight. Leslie scurried us along to the Cape Peninsula National Park to explore the Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope. There are so many gorgeous views including a lovely hike up to the lighthouse at Cape Point and steep overlooks of craggy rock cliffs and crashing waves.

The park closes at sundown, but if you are a rebel, you will push that limit. Be sure to climb out on the rocks amongst the sea spray and watch the sun sink below from the Cape of Good Hope. Then speed through the park to exit just seconds under the wire, narrowly avoiding a fine.

We were strangely energized when we returned to Cape Town proper, so we made our way over to Long Street for dinner at Mama Africa. Dine over traditional African dishes, including a wide variety of game meat (yes even Zebra), then dance off the calories to the vivacious live music. As always, the best meals have animated conversation amongst friends old and new. With the day’s worth of adventures to recount, you there will be no shortage of laughter. If you feel ready to go all night, then crawl from establishment to establishment on Long Street until the wee hours of the morning.

TL; DR

Don’t Miss: Imhoff Farms! Leslie surprised us with this little detour and we could’ve stayed all afternoon

See: The African Penguins at Boulder Beach

Skip: The hike up Table Mountain. Take the cable car instead for 360 views and more time to explore the peak

Eat: Wild Game at Mama Africa

Stay: For the sunset at the Cape of Good Hope, but rush to beat the park closing or face a fine

Pro-Tip: Snag a hotel towel to take with you if you want to watch the sunset from the rocks. The crashing waves send the sea spray farther than you think. If you are extra smart, you’ll grab a bottle of wine from Imhoff Farms to enjoy at sunset as well.

[sorayaadventures-blog]

The Rowdy Guide to Safari

I know what you’ve been thinking for the last few weeks. Does this girl ever actually go on a safari? Well, today is your lucky day.

We flew into Port Elizabeth from Cape Town. The most exciting thing about Port Elizabeth is that it’s on the Indian Ocean so you can dip your toes into new waters. Other than that, don’t bother spending too much time here. We stayed at the stunning Lalibela Game Reserve, about two-hour drive from the airport (don’t worry, they fetch you). This place was down right MAGICAL. From the warm, welcoming staff to the deceptively friendly-looking hippos (those bad boys will take you down) at the watering hole near the front office, it was everything we had imagined. Sure you have to sign a waiver and use an airhorn in case of danger (no phones and no cell service), but it’s worth any risk.

I’ve even put together this handy pocket guide on what to expect from a day on safari. And how not to become a tasty lion snack. You’re welcome.

TL;DR

Don’t Miss: Having hot chocolate with Amarula – a liqueur made from the marula fruit that gets elephants tipsy

See: All the amazing animals! You will be stunned by the majesty of the bush

Skip: Port Elizabeth – but maybe make a quick detour to stick your feet in the Indian Ocean

Stay: Lalibela Game Reserve – besides being a stunning facility, the staff is unparalleled. You will never feel more cared for

Eat: Literally all the time. The Springbok is exceptionally good, but every meal is a showstopper

Pro-Tip: BRING WARM, WEATHER-PROOF CLOTHES. It will be cold no matter when you go. We were so desperate we used the plaid, flannel blankets they provided as scarves

[sorayaadventures-blog]

Cooking & Community in Langa

Day 3:  District 6 and Langa Township 

For me, outside of the safari, our visit to Langa Township is one of the most magical moments of our entire trip. 

During apartheid, townships were segregated urban areas reserved for non-whites and remain underdeveloped even today. It was important to me that we see this part of South Africa, but I wanted to ensure that those we were visiting weren’t being exploited.

Our guide, Pam has a long relationship with Eziko Cooking School. Eziko is Xhosa for “hearth” and there we were warmly greeted by my “spirit animal”, Mama Lindy, and her son Victor, who opened the school in 1996.  

Eziko Cooking School’s mission is to provide unemployed people with life and career-orientated skills in cooking and catering, and empower them to find employment that will enable them to provide for themselves and their families and thereby take a practical route out of poverty. This sung to my hospitality school graduate heart.

The petite, powerful, and spirited Mama Lindy had us all pegged from the moment we walked in, getting us to fall in line and cheekily scolding those of us who were more distractible. Soon she had us dancing and singing as we chopped and stirred. Pam commented that usually Mama Lindy is the loudest in the kitchen, but not that day.

While our traditional African dishes baked and bubbled, Victor took us outside to participate in several traditional Xhosa rituals including drinking from a communal gourd and eating meat from the head of a sheep, appropriately called The Smiley.

Once we had been “initiated” into the Xhosa tribe, Victor took us to the classroom, where their students were wrapping up their wine class for the day.

After introducing ourselves, we sat with the students and talked about what their goals were. I was in HEAVEN talking hospitality with these bright, passionate future restaurateurs. We took tons of selfies with them and connected on Facebook.

We finally sat down to our meal and enjoyed hearing Mama Lindy and Victor tell us tales of their lives in Langa, why they started the school, and sharing jokes. I was sad to leave such a warm, welcoming community.

TL;DR

Don’t Miss: African Cooking Classes at Eziko Cooking School

See: Langa Township

Skip: Breakfast. Mama Lindy will make sure you leave her cooking class with full bellies

Eat: Traditional African dishes including pap, samp with beans, and Smiley

Pro Tip: If you aren’t dancing and chanting with Mama Lindy, did you even go?