#Bertrand Duchaufour

[persolaise]

Hermes Paddock, Crivelli Tubereuse Astrale, Ffern Spring 2024 and Eau D'Italie reviews - 2024

An Hermes that's taken us by surprise: Paddock, composed by Christine Nagel. Also reviewed: new releases from Crivelli and Ffern.

Despite the (extremely off-putting) technical glitches, I broadcast a few more reviews over on YouTube the other day, including one of an entirely unexpected Hermes exclusive called Paddock, composed by Christine Nagel. Other videos focused on Crivelli Tubereuse Astrale (Quentin Bisch), Ffern Spring 2024 (Elodie Durande) and the entire range from Eau D’Italie. Here are links to all the episodes,…

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L’Artisan Parfumeur Onde Sensuelle

L’Artisan Parfumeur Onde Sensuelle

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

notes: grapefruit, bergamot; ginger, juniper, saffron, black pepper, white pepper, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, jasmine; amber, musk, oudh

Onde Sensuelle opens with a bright, juicy ruby red grapefruit — delicious!

A few minutes in, the black pepper comes out and it’s a zippy pepper-and-citrus effect. Over time, the spice warms up and becomes a touch cinnamon-y, with a powdery amber aspect. Bright pink grapefruit, vibrant spice.

Within 4 hours, Onde Sensuelle is very soft. Most of the overt spice is gone and what’s left is sweet pink grapefruit and a vague ambery powder effect.

This is a fun fragrance. Sweet citrus and warming spice is a great combination, one I associate with fire and cheerful energy.

The sweet pink grapefruit reminds me of the zingy, girly delights of fruity shampoos and bath gels, while the vigorous peppery-gingery spice heart keeps things interesting, and the amber ties it all together.

[moratoirenoir]

[parfumery-wiki]

Woody Mood (eau de parfum) Olfactive Studio Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

Woods

Bewitching and intense, Woody Mood features strong tones that echo the immensity of the giant sequoias.

One approaches this fragrance the same way the mysterious heroine does the forest. A clearing, a hypnotic light that summons curiosity: bright notes of bergamot and ginger lead the way, then an accord of sequoia, black tea, incense, and Jatamansi (Himalayan spikenard) settles in, followed by the final enchanting notes of styrax, leather, and patchouli.

Top notes: Bergamot, Ginger, Clary sage, Saffron Heart notes: Sequoia, Jatamansi, Black tea, Incense Base notes: Patchouli, Styrax, Leather, Cocoa, Powder

[thebeautycove]

AEDES DE VENUSTAS - CAFÉ TABAC - Eau de Parfum - Novità 2024 -

New York. The ‘90s. A crazy way of life. Call it lucky who had the chance to witness that time at Café Tabac. The role this lounge bar played in NYC nightlife was just amazing. Everybody was there. This legendary spot revives nowadays in a scent.

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New York nei primi anni ‘90. Palcoscenico di straordinaria vitalità, esuberanza creativa, contaminazioni culturali e incredibile vortice di eccessi e contraddizioni.

Aedes de Venustas, che a New York deve la genesi di un eccezionale percorso nell’universo artistico delle fragranze, celebra questo tempo formidabile restituendo alla memoria un luogo cult delle frenetiche notti nella grande mela, il mitico Café Tabac.

Qui si dava appuntamento il gotha della moda, dell’arte, dello spettacolo. 

Warhol e Madonna, Kate Moss con Johnny Depp, Di Caprio con la trinity supermodels Naomi, Linda, Christy assidui frequentatori del piano superiore, off limits ai più, dove, come in un esclusivissimo speakeasy si consumavano cocktail e sostanze proibite.

Un involucro di follia, passioni, desideri, felicità effimera e irresistibili tentazioni.

Café Tabac, ultima creazione del brand, celebra la sensualità palpabile che emerge da quel luogo perduto. Bertrand Duchaufour scatta un’istantanea olfattiva così fedele e minuziosa, con le sue infinite meticolose piramidi di aromi, ne coglie in nitido primo piano l’atmosfera, i vapori ardenti del tabacco, dolce, secco, caldo, resinoso, la pungente sottolineatura delle spezie, cardamomo e chiodi di garofano, intinti in un’amalgama umida e succosa di frutti e fiori, davana, mela, mango, tamarindo, fico e dattero essiccati.

Un tutto che si fonde all’unisono, in festosa tondezza fino a far emergere, voluttuosa e magnetica, un’evoluzione ricolma di risonanze affumicate ambrate, vivide e tenaci con cisto labdano, ambra grigia, tonka, muschio di quercia, vaniglia, sapienti nell’intrappolare l’attimo e appiccicarsi all’anima, in un crescendo di vibrazioni sature di ricordi.  Presente, oggi come allora.

Creata da Bertrand Duchaufour.

Eau de Parfum 100 ml.  Online qui

©thebeautycove   @igbeautycove

[fruitchouli]

sotds of the past week 🪰🦟🪳

Series 5 Sherbet: Rhubarb CDG (2003)

perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour

Volupté Oscar de la Renta (1992)

perfumer: Sophia Grojsman

Fleurs d’oranger Serge Lutens (1995)

perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

Jessica McClintock Jessica McClintock (1988)

Eau de Star Thierry Mugler (2007)

perfumer: Louise Turner

Aimez-Moi Caron (2013 version, originally 1996)

perfumer: Dominique Ropion

Futur Robert Piguet (2009 version, originally 1967)

perfumer: Aurelein Guichard

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Habit Rouge (Guerlain)

"Smell this." I hold my wrist under my husband's nose.

He inhales deeply, then shrugs. "It's okay."

"Just okay?"

Cheerfully: "Mm-hm."

This scene occurs daily at my house, with very few deviations from script. I would say that ninety percent of the perfumes that have undergone this test rated an "okay". Some receive a "Weird", others a furrowed brow and a muttered, "Where is it?" Occasionally I get a resolute "No!" balanced on the next wearing by an enthusiastic thumbs-up or - best of all - a blissful nuzzling at the nape of my neck.

Little does the man know, this time I'm not asking on my own behalf.

In the years that we have been together, my husband has never worn any kind of fragrance on purpose. He has built a personal regimen involving Ivory Soap, Gold Bond Powder, Nivea Sensitive shaving cream, and "plain" therapeutic moisturizer-- all of which, in concert with his personal scent, happen to smell fantastic. But his sensitive skin limits the amount of experimentation he's willing to do with new or unfamiliar products. He has reacted with mild interest to the masculines in my collection, particularly Bertrand Duchaufour's Timbuktu, yet has never made a single move toward swiping it for himself. And the idea of an "aftershave" other than plain cold water makes him shake his head.

I would never presume to choose a fragrance for him. But if my husband were ever to choose Guerlain's Habit Rouge for daily wear, I'd be the one doing the nuzzling.

Looking back over the evolution of men's fragrances, one sees certain categories -- fougères, leathers, woods, and aquatics -- lording it over all. Habit Rouge belongs to none of these. It's classified as an woody oriental, but is no less masculine for its lack of chauvinism. Bear in mind that in 1965, when Jacques Guerlain formulated HR, the definition of masculinity itself was in flux. Beginning with the Mod style movement of the early 60's, men had begun to struggle free from the previous decade's buttoned-down definition of manhood and to explore (gingerly, of course) a more "feminine" interest in fashion, art, and self-expression.

By 1966, lavishly pattered flowing shirts paired with hip-hugging flared trousers and Cuban heels would be considered the cutting edge of male fashion in psychedelic London. An outre "new Edwardian" aesthetic waited in the wings, all velvet and brocade-- to this cultural style revolution, Habit Rouge acted as the huntsman's trumpet call.

It kicks off with a fantastic top note, unashamedly floral yet not at all delicate, a hearty handshake of a scent like neat camelia oil on good leather. It then rapidly kaleidoscopes through a hundred sunset shades of citrus, with raspy wood notes gently shouldering their way to the fore as if to reassure you of HR's core masculinity. No need to overstate the obvious here, as so many overtly hairy-chested fragrances do at a shout. HR is perfectly comfortable with its identity; its manliness goes without saying and can survive a bit of dandifying.

It ends where very few masculine fragrances have ever dared to end-- in a faint, talcum-powder shimmer laced through with orange blossoms. This explains why so many men have lost their bottles of HR to wives and girlfriends-- but don't draw the wrong conclusions, gents. It's not that HR is for ladies. It's that ladies love HR, no matter who's wearing it. Why not you? (Still not convinced? Be advised that Sean Connery swore by Habit Rouge for years. That's right-- 007 HIMSELF wore it, so calm down, big boy.)

"Smell this." I hold my Habit Rouge-sprayed wrist under my husband's nose.

He inhales deeply, then shrugs. "It's okay," he says. Then he takes my wrist in his hand and smells again.

"Hm," he says.

Hm, indeed.

Scent Elements: Bergamot, lemon, rosewood, basil, sandalwood, carnation, patchouli, cedar, cinnamon, vanilla, amber, moss, benzoin, labdanum, olibanum

[ibjb]

AMARIGE D AMOUR BY GIVENCHY 1.7/1.6 OZ EDT SPRAY FOR WOMEN

Amarige D'Amour by Givenchy is a Chypre Floral fragrance for women. Amarige D'Amour was launched in 2003. Amarige D'Amour was created by Bertrand Duchaufour and Emilie Bevierre-Coppermann. Top notes are Cassia, Black Currant and Sweet Pea; middle notes are Rose Hip, White Mimosa, Rose, Lily-of-the-Valley and Jasmine; base notes are Sandalwood and Ambergris.

[champagne8love]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: 🦾Phuong Dang Cryptic Extrait de Parfum Sample 3ml/0.10fl.oz..

[beautyscenario]

Encens Japonais di Aedes de Venustas

Encens Japonais di Aedes de Venustas

Ritorno con i fuochi d’artificio per il brand americano Aedes de Venustas che era scomparso da qualche stagione. Nuovo packaging, come sempre c’è chi rimpienge il vecchio e chi adora questo, e soprattutto nuova fragranza, Encens Japonais, firmata dal profumiere Bertrand Duchaufour. Un’interpretazione della nota dell’incenso  ricca, sfaccettata e opulenta quella di Mr. Duchafour. Encens Japonais…

[pinezoe]

💕 Découverte de la toute récente marque française de parfums de niche et rechargeables @ynepsie ! C'est 12 fragrances uniques, 8 féminines et 4 masculines classées dans 4 familles différentes (floral, oriental, gourmand, marin, frais) créés par 2 artistes parfumeurs - 💁🏾‍♀️ Pour ma part j'avais reçu par la marque le parfum Chypre Cosmic crée par Bertrand Duchaufour, C'est décrit comme un boisé, floral et aquatique, un parfum chypré aux notes aquatiques de jasmin d'eau et de jacynthe d'eau. J'adore déjà les parfums floraux et aquatiques que je porte avec plaisir en été mais je n'avais encore jamais porté une fragrance qui regroupe les 3. Je vous avoue que j'ai eu un peu peur de ne pas aimer ce parfum et pourtant ce fût une très belle surprise! - ❤️ La fragrance est assez forte, je ne suis pas très certaine d'arriver à bien différencier les notes de tête mais une fois sec sur ma peau, on sent bien les notes de coeur très florales. Et comme la pyramide olfactive l'indique, en fin de journée restent plus persistantes des effluves enivrantes et sensuelles. Je le trouve parfait pour moi mais je ne pense pas qu'il soit adapté aux jeunes femmes et d'ailleurs ma fille de 18ans ne l'apprécie pas, je pense qu'elle aurait aimé quelques chose de plus gourmand comme beaucoup de filles de son âge! - 👍🏽 Franchement je me laisserai bien tenter par le pochon d'échantillons de parfums féminins pour trouver un autre coup de cœur olfactif ! (34e les 50mL et 44e la recharge de 100mL) - #ynepsie #parfum #madeinfrance #chypre #perfumecollection #perfumelovers #perfumeaddict #perfumaria (at Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/CfZ8GQsKKQS/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[persolaise]

Saskia Havekes, Grandiflora, Live Interview

Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora talks about the birth of her award-winning perfume brand and working with Christophe Laudamiel, Michel Roudnitska and the late Sandrine Videault

Nine years ago, when I reviewed the superlative Magnolia Grandiflora Michel and Magnolia Grandilfora Sandrine, I had no idea that one day I’d be interviewing the brand’s founder in a virtual YouTube studio. But that is precisely what happened a little while ago when Saskia Havekes took some time out of a busy travelling schedule to join me from a hotel room in Melbourne. During our all-too-brief…

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L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis

nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

notes: chestnut, orange; maple syrup, coffee, orange blossom; vanilla, ebony, tonka, sandalwood, heliotrope

“You know what’s wrong with perfume? It’s not brown enough.”

“What are you talking about? There are whole genres of brown perfumes! Leathers! Orientals! Woody scents! There are so many rich caramelized brown scents out there!”

“Yeah but I don’t want to smell like spices or leather or wood. I just want to smell BROWN. Like a French pan sauce. I want caramelization, I want the Maillard reaction, I want nuttiness, and NOTHING ELSE. I want the ultimate brown scent!”

“Oh you mean like the sweet-dark base in a vintage Oriental like Tabu or Nuit de Noel?”

“Sort of…but JUST THE BROWN PART. No oakmoss. No spices. No florals, God forbid. BROWN. SAUCE.”

“okay then…Noir Exquis it is.”

It does sort of smell like a roasted chestnut; it isn’t very much like coffee or maple syrup. But mostly it’s nutty, caramelized, mildly sweetened browwwwwn.

Lasts all day; as time goes on it becomes more synthetic (we have some woody-ambers in there) but not in a bad way. It’s got that “heavy/light” paradoxical balance that’s typical of Duchaufour.

I am not, in fact, a brown-sauce fanatic; in fact I find the richness a bit tiresome, and that heavy “gravy” type of base can make me get sick of a perfume that’s otherwise appealing (like Opium or Fracas.)

But if you can’t get enough brown, Noir Exquis is your thing. Masculine-of-center, in my view, thanks to that woody-amber.

[moratoirenoir]

[parfumery-wiki]

Mon Numéro 9 (eau de cologne) L’Artisan Parfumeur Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

Citrus

Mon Numéro 9 with its uplifting citrus top notes is regarded as an eau fraiche with unexpected raw materials. It recalls the energising and uplifting aromas of the Japanese bathing custom in nature’s hot springs. Water is heated naturally by the earth and is often imbued with invigorating minerals and aromas. Both cologne and hot springs are known to awaken the senses. 

Key notes: Cedrat, Lemon petitgrain, Shiso

[thebeautycove]

NEELA VERMEIRE CREATIONS - NEMUS - FRAGMENTS by NVC Collection - Parfum - Novità 2022 -  Fragments of feelings. Perceptions gathered during a protracted, sometimes arduous journey. But once we reach the finish line, we find ourselves richer inside, more aware in valuing the real beauty that surrounds us. . Che viaggio straordinario ha compiuto Neela Vermeire durante questi tempi grami, quanta bellezza è riuscita a distillare da questi interminabili giorni d’attesa.

Faccio miei questi moodboard odorosi, frammenti del suo vissuto, il suo sguardo dolce e fiducioso sul tempo che fugge, la sua florida, caleidoscopica immaginazione, bussola della sua ultima avventura olfattiva, la nuova linea di fragranze FRAGMENTS by NVC. Il progetto, nato nel periodo pre pandemia, ha subìto uno stop forzato negli ultimi due anni, questi ‘frammenti’ sono rimasti sospesi a mezz’aria, hanno fluttuato controcorrente, temperato i loro contorni. Si sono fatti attendere e desiderare con maggiore impeto e, infine, sono emersi dal buio in tutto il loro travolgente splendore aromatico. Le tre fragranze-mosaico, Nemus, Purpureum e Thyina, hanno avuto in sorte una visione compositiva impressionista, una palette di note pure, sature, scelte come d’istinto per assecondare un bisogno sensoriale primario, un percepito che muta in fragranza e diffonde luce ed energia rigeneratrice. NEMUS (dal latino bosco, albero) scandisce la vitalità espressa dalla natura nel suo perpetuo rinnovarsi. È verde, vegetativa, boschiva, con un’esaltante escursione termica su pelle. Sa accogliere nel radioso sorriso degli agrumi (limone bergamotto cedro), lenire nel soffio erbaceo di frutti e spezie balsamiche (zenzero salvia sclarea geranio), rasserenare nel garbo corale di tè, ambra grigia, legno di cedro e infine proteggere attraverso le sfumature più profonde, terrose e radicali, un memorabile oud, il velo mistico dell’incenso, l’ardore purificante di patchouli e nagarmotha. È un gran bel ritorno, un sentire benefico. E ci sta lo stupirsi, ancora e di più, e il chiedersi dove eravamo rimasti?… qui, solo un attimo fa, fermi ad annusare la bellezza.

Creata da Bertrand Duchaufour. Parfum 50 ml. In profumerie selezionate e online qui ©thebeautycove    @igbeautycove