#Dirk Van Saene

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'Elisabeth', a white crepe paper dress by Dirk Van Saene.

Elisabeth was created for the SS1999 collection alongside Sisi, Ruffle Dress, Guirlande, Victoria, Folie, Mme Crepe and Rococo. follow on Instagram for more

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THE ANTWERP SIX+1 | LONDON, 1986 PHOTOGRAPHY: KAREL FONTEYNE

MARINA YEE / DRIES VAN NOTEN / ANN DEMEULEMEESTER / WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK / DIRK BIKKEMBERGS / DIRK VAN SAENE / + MARTIN MARGIELA

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Biba, September 1999.

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"Fashion in Antwerp" by Dirk Van Saene

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Dirk van Saene

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Dirk Van Saene, Autumn-Winter 1997, Womenswear

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Kristina De Coninck for the presentation for AW1990 Dirk Van Saene photography by Ronald Stoops & make-up by Inge Grognard follow on Instagram for more

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Dirk Van Saene AW 1997

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ANTWERP 6: WHERE ARE THEY NOW?

The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium is home to some of fashion’s most influential designers and artists, ranging from Vincent Van Gogh to Martin Margiela. Between the graduating class of 1980 and 1982, a group of six designers comprised of Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee all collectively studied under fashion designer Linda Loopa, each of them differentiating themselves from their peers through their creative direction, unique designs, and uncompromising passion for the industry. It was not long after their graduation that each of them developed their individual fashion label, keeping in touch with each other to flesh out new ideas. In 1986, the group jumped into a van and made their way to the British Designer Show in London where artists such as John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood, who were already established in the industry, showcased their work. The group was given a small space on the top floor away from all of the top artists, where buyers were not interested in traveling the length to view the work of the six unknown artists from Antwerp. By day two, they realized that none of the buyers were traveling past the first floor, so they decided to print out flyers and distribute them. That afternoon, a buyer from Barneys went upstairs and was amazed by the group’s designs, since each designer had a unique style and creative vision, and this soon became the collective’s first order. Shortly after, the press caught wind of these six fashion designers from Antwerp, but were not able to pronounce their Belgian names, settling on coining the group the “Antwerp 6”.

Over 30 years have elapsed since the showcase, let’s take a look at where this creative group is now.

Ann Demeulemeester

Born Ann Verhelst, Demeulemeester launched her brand alongside her husband Patrick Robyn. In 1982, she was awarded the Golden Spindle Award (a Belgian prize created by the Belgian government to aid the reawakening of its textile industry). She got her start in fashion through eyewear, showcasing a collection of sunglasses at the British Designer Show. She is now well-known for her military-inspired boots, graphic prints, and grunge/dark themes that are showcased within her designs. Although she left the brand in 2013, she still oversees special projects, such as creating the house’s very first perfume and is currently collaborating with Serax, a Belgian B2B interior design company to create homeware and lighting ranges.

Dries Van Noten

Born into a family of tailors, Dries Van Noten is known for intricate cuts and silhouettes. His attention to detail and his knowledge of the importance of tailoring is showcased within his work. His designs have been seen on various influential figures such as Cate Blanchette for the 2008 Academy Awards, Queen Mathilde of Belgium, and Maggie Gyllenhaall. In 2018, Puig, a fashion and fragrance conglomerate (most notably owning Charlotte Tilbury and Jean Paul Gaultier) bought shares of Dries Van Noten to become the majority owner. Noten remains on the brand as a significant minority shareholder and continues his role as Chief Creative Officer and Chairman of the Board.

Dirk Van Saene

Dirk Van Saene is an artist that utilizes his love for painting in every one of his collections by featuring hand-painted clothing and printed reproductions of his work onto fabric to create garments that are truly one of a kind. Van Saene’s sculptures and paintings have been independently showcased at the Gallery Sofie Van de Velde, located in Antwerp. He is currently creating collections under his own name whilst being an instructor for the fashion design program at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. In collaboration with fellow Antwerp 6 colleague Walter Van Beirendonck, Saene has created and operates a boutique located in Antwerp

Walter Van Beirendonck

Walter Van Beirendonck is the oldest member of Antwerp 6, graduating alongside Martin Margiela, one of fashion’s most influential designers. Beirendonck is the head of the fashion Department at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp. He has created a capsule collection for IKEA and he was the fashion advisor for U2, an Irish rock band from Dublin, featuring Bono, The Edge, Adam Clayton and Larry Mullen Jr., where he created costumes for their 1997 PopMart tour. As a long time professor at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he has dedicated most of his career to mentoring young designers and artists such as Raf Simons and Kris Van Assche.

Dirk Bikkembergs

Born in Germany in 1959, Dirk Bikkembergs acquired his reputation as a fashion designer before joining the “Antwerp 6”, winning the Canette d’Or award for the country’s best young fashion designer, leading him to design his first men’s shoe collection (a category that would host some of his most iconic designs). His inspirations from athleticism and loungewear aided him in forming Bikkembergs Sport in 2000, which hosted fashion shows at iconic sports arenas such as Camp Nou (home of F.C. Barcelona). In 2012, Bikkembergs sold his label and was acquired by Zeis Excelsa and shortly after in 2016, British designer Lee Wood was made creative director to aid the growth of the brand.

Marina Yee

The most elusive member of the group, Marina Yee is currently still designing. She founded her label called Marie, however she never showcased any of her designs at the big fashion capitals because she always desired to keep her business small. Much of her work is centered around the thought of being sustainable and her designs focus on upcycling and restoring vintage garments. In 2003, she started her own workshop in the center of Antwerp that repurposes flea market finds into alluring and eye-catching pieces.

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Dirk Van Saene, A/W 1997.

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Dries Van Noten’s career has been praised by many people recently. His designs were exhibited at the The Home Team UK December 2024 Birmingham poster t-shirt besides I will buy this Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris in 2014, demonstrating the influence of pop culture and art in fashion designs. Last year, he received the WWD Honorable Mention for Designer of the Year, and previously in 2008, he was awarded the CFDA International Designer of the Year award. Dries Van Noten was hailed by The New York Times as “one of the most thoughtful designers in the fashion industry”. His career began in the 1980s at the University of Antwerp, where he graduated in fashion design along with Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, a group later known as with the name Antwerp Six.

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Dries Van Noten’s most memorable looks, as the Belgian fashion designer steps down

Many famous people, such as Florence Pugh, Cate Blanchett, and Margot Robbie, have worn Dries Van Noten's designs. After 38 years, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten is stepping down as creative director of his namesake fashion brand. "In the early '80s, as a young guy in Antwerp, my dream was to have a voice in fashion. Van Noten fulfilled his dream with the help of many supportive people. He now wants to focus on other things. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Dries Van Noten (@driesvannoten) He will step down at the end of June. His last collection will be menswear in spring/summer 2025, in Paris in June. His studio team will create the women's collection. They have been working closely together for years. I have complete confidence that they will do a great job." This doesn't mark the end of the Dries Van Noten fashion brand The House that Van Noten treasures so much will soon announce a new creative director, and he has stated that he will continue to stay involved in it. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Dries Van Noten (@driesvannoten) Van Noten completed a fashion design course at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Belgium in 1981. After opening his flagship store in Antwerp in 1989, he became a member of 'The Antwerp Six,' a group of Belgian creatives revolutionizing the fashion industry. The group included Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Marina Yee. Five years later, he debuted his first collection. In 1991, he debuted at Paris Fashion Week with a menswear collection. Two years later, he launched womenswear and became a regular on the schedule. Fashion firm Puig acquired a majority share in the brand in 2018. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Dries Van Noten (@driesvannoten) Over the years, Van Noten has built up a reputation as a quietly experimental fashion designer. He blends the old with the new. He plays around with silhouette. This is mainly seen in the ballooning, oversized shapes of coats and sleeves. The design was showcased at his recent Paris Fashion Week show in February. Florals are a recurring theme in his clothes, and Van Noten says the flowers often inspire him in his garden. While Van Noten's work isn't a red carpet mainstay like some of the other major brands on the Paris Fashion Week calendar, celebrities make an impact when they choose to wear his designs. Florence Pugh was nominated for a BAFTA for her role as Amy March in Little Women back in 2020, and she brought a welcome splash of color to the red carpet in her pink and black Van Noten creation. A fuchsia dress-meets-cape was worn over a black mini dress, with the voluminous sleeves and bow detailing giving a subtle nod to Amy March's fashion. Pink and black were central to Van Noten's work in 2020, as Margot Robbie also wore that color combination to the London premiere of Birds Of Prey the same year. She paired her full black skirt with a feathered bralette, tapping into the trend for underwear as outerwear, and donned hot pink opera gloves. Cate Blanchett chose to wear Dries Van Noten to the Oscars in 2008 when she was pregnant with her third child, Ignatius. The midnight blue gown had an empire line for her bump and gold accents. Additionally, the sequinned flowers on the skirt were particularly eye-catching. Kirsten Dunst wore a floral Van Noten gown to the Baby2Baby Gala in Nov 2023. Noomi Rapace wore a navy and white floral print dress with statement red gloves at the Cannes Film Festival in May 2022. The dress, created by Van Noten, featured dramatic oversized sleeves. Read the full article