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The Power of Chemical Exfoliants: AHA and BHA
Introduction:
In the realm of skincare, chemical exfoliation has emerged as a game-changer for achieving smoother, brighter, and healthier-looking skin. Among the various chemical exfoliants available, Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) and Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) have garnered substantial attention due to their remarkable effectiveness. This article aims to provide an in-depth understanding of these two potent ingredients, exploring their benefits, differences, usage guidelines, and how they can transform your skincare routine.
Outline:
I. Understanding Chemical Exfoliants A. Importance of exfoliation B. Introduction to chemical exfoliation II. Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) A. Definition and types of AHAs B. Benefits of AHAs in skincare 1. Promotes cellular turnover 2. Improves texture and clarity 3. Reduces signs of aging C. Suitable skin types for AHAs III. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) A. Definition and types of BHAs
B. Benefits of BHAs in skincare 1. Deep cleansing properties 2. Effective against acne and breakouts 3. Reduces inflammation C. Suitable skin types for BHAs IV. Differences between AHA and BHA A.PH level
B.Exfoliating mechanism
C.Targeted concerns
V.How to Incorporate AHAs and BHAs into Your Skincare Routine A.Patch testing
B.Frequency of use
C.Post-application care
VI.Pro Tips for Optimal Results with AHAs and BHAs
A.Sun protection
B.Consistency is key
VII.Conclusion
Content:
Understanding Chemical Exfoliants:
Exfoliation is a critical step in any skincare routine as it helps to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve the overall appearance of the skin. While physical exfoliation methods like scrubs and brushes have long been popular, chemical exfoliation has gained significant momentum in recent years due to its effectiveness and gentler nature. By utilizing powerful ingredients such as AHAs and BHAs, chemical exfoliants offer a more controlled approach to achieving radiant and youthful-looking skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA):
AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from various natural sources such as citrus fruits, sugar cane, milk, or even grapes. The most common types of AHAs used in skincare products include glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits), and tartaric acid (from grapes). Each AHA has unique properties that contribute to its effectiveness in promoting healthier skin.
The benefits of incorporating AHAs into your skincare routine are manifold. Firstly, AHAs stimulate cellular turnover by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be sloughed away more easily. This process not only reveals fresh, vibrant skin but also promotes collagen production for improved texture and elasticity. Additionally, AHAs help fade discoloration left by acne scars or sun damage and diminish fine lines and wrinkles over time.
While AHAs can be beneficial for most skin types when used appropriately, they are particularly suitable for individuals with dry or sun-damaged skin due to their humectant properties. These acids attract moisture from the environment into the skin while gently exfoliating, resulting in a smoother complexion that appears plump and hydrated.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA):
Unlike AHAs which are water-soluble acids, BHAs are oil-soluble compounds known as Salicylic Acid. This unique property enables BHAs to penetrate deep into the pores, making them especially effective for individuals struggling with acne and blemish-prone skin. BHAs work by breaking down sebum, unclogging congested pores, and reducing inflammation.
The benefits of incorporating BHAs into your skincare routine are noteworthy. Firstly, their deep cleansing properties make them excellent for combating blackheads, whiteheads, and breakouts. By dissolving excess oil and debris trapped within the pores, BHAs help prevent future breakouts while improving skin texture.
Furthermore, BHAs possess anti-inflammatory properties that alleviate redness and calm irritated skin. This makes them a preferred choice for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin who often experience inflammation as a result of clogged pores.
Differences between AHA and BHA:
While AHAs and BHAs share the common goal of exfoliating the skin, there are notable differences between these chemical exfoliants. pH level is a primary differentiating factor – AHAs generally have a lower pH (around 3-4), making them ideal for superficial peeling targeting the upper layers of the epidermis. On the other hand, BHAs have a higher pH (around 3-6), enabling them to penetrate deeper into the pores for thorough exfoliation.
Additionally, AHAs operate by dissolving substances that bind dead cells together on the surface of the skin. Conversely, BHAs’ lipid solubility allows them to penetrate through oil buildup in the follicles, effectively cleaning out clogged pores from within.
Another key distinction lies in their targeted concerns – AHAs primarily focus on improving overall skin texture, reducing signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles, and promoting brightness. In contrast, BHAs excel at combating acne breakouts due to their ability to deeply cleanse pores and reduce swelling or redness associated with blemishes.
How to Incorporate AHAs and BHAs into Your Skincare Routine:
When introducing any new skincare product or ingredient, a cautious approach is advisable. Patch testing is essential to determine how your skin reacts to AHAs or BHAs. Apply a small amount of the product to a discreet area and observe for any adverse reactions such as redness, itching, or irritation. If no negative response occurs within 24 hours, it is generally safe to proceed.
The frequency of exfoliation with AHAs and BHAs varies according to individual skin type and tolerance levels. Generally, it is recommended to start using these products once or twice a week initially and gradually increase usage as your skin adapts.
Post-application care also plays a vital role in reaping the best results from chemical exfoliants. After applying an AHA or BHA product, ensure you follow up with adequate hydration through moisturizers or serums suitable for your skin type. This will help replenish lost moisture due to exfoliation while maintaining the desired balance.
Pro Tips for Optimal Results with AHAs and BHAs:
Both AHAs and BHAs increase photo-sensitivity in the skin; therefore, adequate sun protection is crucial when incorporating these chemical exfoliants into your routine. Always apply sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection of at least SPF 30 or higher before exposure to sunlight.
Consistency is key when incorporating chemical exfoliants into your skincare regimen. Over time, regular use of AHAs and BHAs will yield noticeable improvements in texture, brightness, acne control, and overall skin health. Follow the recommended guidelines for usage provided by each specific product manufacturer.
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Unit test a Flask session - cannot reproduce failure with session_transaction
I am testing a Flask application (Flask 0.9), and in particular I have a session fixture that I would like to run in the documented-way, being something like this (as I understand it):
from flask import Flask, sessionapp = Flask(__name__)@app.route('/', methods=['POST'])def m(): logging.error(session) # expect {'x': 1} return ""with app.test_request_context() as trc: with app.test_client() as c: with c.session_transaction() as sess: sess['x'] = 1 c.post()
This works as expected, with the output being something like this:
ERROR:root:<SecureCookieSession {'x': 1}>
Unfortunately I am encountering an unexpected result where the session data is not set in the endpoint function, i.e. the output is something like this:
ERROR:root:<SecureCookieSession {}>
This issue exhibits only when run from my unit testing framework. As it stands, I am unable to reproduce this problem with a degenerate case, though I have made a fairly substantial effort with a gist of some of this effort here. The salient points being that I have included itsdangerous and Google App Engine testbed, expecting maybe one of them to have been the cause.
On my own system I have gone further than the gist, and almost completely replicated my unit test framework trying to isolate this. Likewise, I have removed ever-increasing amounts of relevant code from my testing framework. To the point, I am unable to think of differences between the degenerate case and my stripped-down framework that could influence the outcome. I have traversed the c.post() call in pdb to try eek out the cause of this malignity, but have yet to glean any useful insight.
Which is all to say, I would be grateful for a little direction or suggestion as to where the issue may lie. What could possibly be influencing the Werkzeug context in such a way that the session_transaction is not being honoured?
https://codehunter.cc/a/flask/unit-test-a-flask-session-cannot-reproduce-failure-with-session-transaction
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Brands of Asthma Cigarettes
Beyond Dr. Guild’s Green Mountain, there were many other brands of asthma cigarettes, powders, and similar on the market in the Inter-war period. Here are just a few available in the United States during the that time.
Dr. Guild’s Green Mountain — Vermont, Rupert
Active ingredients: Stramonium and Belladonna
Cigarettes (24pc): 75c
Asthmatic Compound (combustible powder, 1/2oz): 30c
R. Schiffmann Co. — California, Los Angeles
Active ingredients: Stramonium and Belladonna
They sold under the product name Asthmador.
Cigarettes (12pc and 24pc) : 35c and 60c
Pipe Mixture: 75c
Aromatic Incense Powder (3oz): 65c
Potter’s — UK, Surrey
The brand was very popular, though I was unable to ascertain if it was sold in the US.
Page’s Inhalers — Michigan, Grand Rapids
Active ingredients: Stramonium
Cigarettes (45pc): 60c
Himrod’s — New Jersey, Jersey City and New York, Brooklyn
Active ingredients: Stramonium
Asthma Powder (combustible powder, 3oz and 3 1/8oz): $1.00 and $1.25
Dr Kinsman’s — Maine, Augusta
Cigarettes (24pc and 60pc): 50c and $1.00
Asthma Powder (combustible powder, ?oz and 9 1/3oz): 75c and $1.50
Blosser’s — Georgia, Atlanta
Active ingredients: Stramonium
Cigarette’s (24pc and 100pc): 75c and $1.25
While there are inevitably more, these are some that I came across in my studies which I can confirm the dates on. There were, indeed, many options for customers, and they were sold at any local pharmacy across the country. The prices were reasonably consistent across the board.
If you want more in the topic, my full research notes on all topics are available for all $3+ Patreon patrons!
Image Sources
Himrod’s Tin w/ box and booklet, c.1940s | Source
Himrod’s Bottle w/ box, c.post-1938 | Source
Potter’s War-time Emergency box w/ cigarettes, c.WWII | Source
R. Schiffmann Co. box w/ cigarettes, c.1920-1930s | Source
R. Schiffmann Co.tin, c.1940s | Source
Dr. Guild’s Green Mountain box | D.’s SRNY Collection
Dr. Guild’s Green Mountain cigarette box and powder tin | Source
Kinsman’s cigarette box, c.1933 | Source
Kinsman’s powder tin, c.1900-1920s | Source
Kinsman’s box w/ cigarettes and foldout, c.1920-1930s | Source
This post has been sponsored by my much loved and long-time Patreon supporter Joanna Daniels. She and I would like to dedicate the post to the loving memory of her mother Joan Daniels. She will be sorely missed.
[ Support SRNY through Patreon and Ko-Fi ]
And join us on Discord for fun conversation!
I also have an Etsy with up-cycled nerdy crafts
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