#cora ginsburg auctions

[fashionsfromhistory]

Crocheted Evening Dress

Kostio de War

c.1938

Capitalizing on a broader enthusiasm for hand knitting that emerged in the mid-1930s, [Kostio de War] became famous for her unique hand-knit and crocheted evening gowns. Initially, she explored the idea in chenille thread, pairing sheaths in “loose, large mesh patterns” over slips of “lacquered satin,” as Women’s Wear Daily described in 1935. A sometimes enthusiast for surreal touches, she competed briefly with Elsa Schiaparelli for headlines, particularly when the latter also introduced several hand-knitted pieces in her winter 1935 collection. The U.S. press, however, found several distinct virtues in the elegantly practical garments made by Kostio de War: the dresses could be easily rolled up for travel and resisted wrinkling, while her heavier knitted metallic evening jackets could quickly dress up a simple dinner dress. In 1937, Paris-Soir reported on the popularity and practicality of knitted garments for sport as well as for evening wear, writing, “The more we lead busy lives, the more precious handmade goods become.” They announced that Mme. Kostio de War had recently unearthed in central Europe an amusing book from about 1830 containing instructions for a variety of unusual historical stitches, which she had used in crafting her latest collection: “For evening, she has created with threads of copper, steel, [and] platinum, gowns of the most rare sumptuousness.” In 1938, Denise Veber of the French paper Marianne called these “miracle” evening gowns of gold or silver very simple, but nevertheless of an almost magical (féerique) appearance. (Cora Ginsburg Auctions)

Cora Ginsburg Auctions (2020 Modern)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Russian court dress by Worth ca. 1888

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 2005, now in the collection of the Indianapolis Museum of Art)

[aneacostumes]

One of the most typical Romantic era fashion details I know of is the big, quadratic belt buckle women wore to emphasis their waist.

After some decades of a raised waistline and column-like silhouette, narrow waists once again came into fashion, helped by a new hourglass shaped corset that further underlined the shape. And the big buckle was the the finishing detail, the exclamation point. Here’s some examples. 

“Portrait of a Woman”, 1831, by Miklós Barabas (unknown location)

“Portrait of Eleonore Thulstrup”, early 19th century, by Jacob Munch (Oslo Museum, OB.00484)

“Portrait of Christine Kemp Keilhau”, 1835, by Johan Görbitz (Oslo Museum, OB.00258)

Ribbon belt and golden buckle on a pigeon blue dress, 1830s (from Cora Ginsburg auctions)

Golden buckle, 1827 (private collection)

“Portrait of Juliane Elise Larpent”, 1827, by Aument (Linderud gård, Oslo). Here she is wearing the very buckle seen in photo 5.

Golden buckle and belt made of the same fabric as the dress, 1830-34 (Victoria and Albert Museum, London, T.168&A-1915)

“Portrait of Henriette Hansen”, 1831, by Richter W. (Oslo Museum, OB.00049)

“Portrait of Paula Schedius”, 1834, by Carl Rahl (unknown location)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Waistcoat, stomacher and petticoat ca. 1700

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1997)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Day dress, 1804-06

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1999)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Evening dresses ca. 1845-50

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 2000, the right now in the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Formal gown, late 17th century

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 2002)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Dress ca. 1800-05

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 2004)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Robe à l’anglaise ca. 1760

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1995)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Stomacher and collar set ca. 1740

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1996)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Italian gown ca. 1780

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1996)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Robe à la française ca. 1770-75

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1998, now in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art) 

[fripperiesandfobs]

Evening dress and parasol ca. 1862-65

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1998, now in the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Banyan ca. 1760-70

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 2007, now in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Robe à la française ca. 1775-80

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 1999)

[fripperiesandfobs]

Dress ca. 1830

From Cora Ginsburg (auctioned 2003)