#koikishu

[koikishu]

Hi! First of all I wanted to say that I only just found your account recently and it's very interesting, I love learning about other cultures and clothing has always been a big reason for that so I really appreciate the amount of research you put into your work!

Anyways, I'm also a big fan of Journey To The West and I found this photo depicting Princess Iron Fan that came from a 2010 Chinese opera performance "Monkey King: Flaming Mountain". Her outfit is very very pretty but I couldn't find any info on it no matter how hard I tried, the one thing I managed to find that was similar was called a feitian dress (I think, sorry if that's wrong), but they don't look quite the same as the one in this performance. I was wondering if you knew what it was called and if it has any historical accuracies behind the design of her outfit as well, thanks in advance! :)

Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad you're enjoying my blog.

So, I think you're on the right track with "feitian" dress. Another culture/ historical fashion blog, @ziseviolet, wrote an excellent post about feitian dress, its origins, and its modern versions that you should read here: https://www.tumblr.com/ziseviolet/672232299973296128/what-exactly-does-dunhuang-style-mean?source=share

Another thing to note is that it's a Chinese Opera performance, meaning that the costumes will blend the well-known character traits & signifiers from the original tale mixed with traditional Chinese Opera costumes/ accessories. As far as I could tell, Princess Iron Fan is some kind of demoness in the original story, and many gods/bodhisattvas/apsaras (i.e. feitian)/ demons were depicted wearing "feitian" style clothing to indicate their non-humanness to audiences.

We know that feitian style clothing isn't historically accurate and that many aspects of Chinese Opera costumes are also not historical, so there's not much else to find regarding this version of Princess Iron Fan's costume. I do agree that it's very pretty, but I don't think it has any special name or style other than "feitian." I hope you find this answer helpful! If not, see if @ziseviolet may have a better answer for you!

Regards,

Koikishu

[audreydoeskaren]

Are there any similar blogs like yours (whether it’s on Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indian, etc. fashion)?

Hi, thanks for the question.

For Chinese historical fashion there are many other blogs on Tumblr. This is not a comprehensive list just the ones I know :3

@ziseviolet has the ultimate compilation of general hanfu information.

@fouryearsofshades educational hanfu content, like analyzing hanfu trends and their historical precedents.

@hanfu-asks tutorials and specific information about sewing hanfu. They seem to be on semi-hiatus.

@guzhuangheaven posts about period dramas and sometimes talks about their costumes.

@hanfugallery photo sets of hanfu from all eras and sometimes explanations as well.

@fuckyeahchinesefashion Chinese fashion from all eras and also period costumes.

@vintagechinese vintage Chinese fashion and film, though they seem to have stopped posting :.(

For other countries I don't know as many blogs but I went and found a few. If any of these is problematic/factually questionable please let me know.

For Japan:

@taishou-kun Japanese fashion, art and film 19th century onward. I love that they have a lot of modernist art that is very rare to see and often neglected in favor of the more conventional geisha stuff.

@tanuki-kimono seems to be a hub for kimono enthusiasts.

@geimaiko writes about geisha culture and the kimono they wear.

@koikishu mostly kimono, but also fashion from other Asian countries.

@onna-musha historical Japanese fashion and culture, with a lot of content about fierce female warriors for some reason. I stan.

@thekimonogallery​ historical kimono and Japanese culture.

For Vietnam:

@lotusinjadewell compiled a short history for Vietnamese fashion, and posts photo sets of Vietnamese historical fashion and modern aodai.

For Korea:

@kimono-hanbok joint blog for kimono and hanbok.

@hanboki-blog Korean historical art, photographs and extant fashion items.

Others:

@sartorialadventure mostly Western historical fashion but sometimes they post various non Western fashions as well.

@non-westernhistoricalfashion like the name suggests, non Western historical fashion from a variety of eras.

Feel free to add to this list!!

[tanuki-kimono]

Hi Tanuki! i’m a fashion designer student from Argentina and me and a group of students are doing an analisis of this picture right here! Can i ask you, is this a Yoshiwara Yuujo or is this a Yoshiwara Oiran? Also, Whats the box that the kamuro is holding and the symbol that she have in her hands? There’s little to no info on the internet about this amazing but complicated obis, a few in english and nothing in spanish, sorry to bother you! Best wishes from a fashion student to another :)

Hi! I am not a specialist in old Japan red districts, but she definitely looks like an Oiran! Her finery, especially the many beko kanzashi (turtleshell hairpins) are telling 😊

Yuujo looked far more “plain”. They didn't have kamuro apprentices or otokoshu (male helpers, here holding up an umbrella) attending to them. Plus I also don't think a yuujo would have had her pictures taken like this portrait 🤔

My question would be: is she an Oiran or a Tayuu? By attire only, I'd say Oiran but I have found this same picture refering to her as Tayuu from Osaka (not Yoshiwara then?). I find it quite weird as Taiyuu hair accessories are normally different so it might be a regional variation? Could you help us @geimaiko :3?

The box (hako) is probably a wooden box draped in a pretty fukusa. It is used as a kind of handbag for the Oiran belongings. It is classier than a normal drawstring bag (kinchaku) or kago (basket, with or without drawstring bag inside - the one still used by maiko for example). 

The Oiran is not holding anything in her hands ;) That big thing at her middle is her luscious obi belt!

The obi is knotted up front as it was customary for prostitutes (but beware it was also worn often this way by any women especially pre Meiji era noble women). This knot is a variation on the classic bow knot (bunko musubi) with wings laying flat to display the over-the-top obi (which must be padded to lay this straight) .

The musubi beautifully display a hagoromo pattern (a kite-like motif symbolizing a robe of feathers worn by tennin, see pic below). It is absolutely dramatic and I love it ^^

As for sources about Oiran, Tayuu, or Yuujo, they are many people here on tumblr ^^ Geimaiko, Missmyloko, or Koikishu are names coming right up to my mind, but I am sure I am forgetting many :)

[wearejapanese]

One World’s Kimono Project 2020 

I’m in agreement with most Japanese people that the Olympics this year are just UGH. However, I think the Kimono Project 2020 is one of the few good things to come out of this whole mess, and I’m rather sad that many of the craftspeople and designers behind the project won’t get the recognition they deserve. See the above video for coverage of over 200 furisode created to represent all Olympic participants for Tokyo 2020. The project started in 2014 and was completed in 2020 with individual kimono weaving companies and designers sponsored by Japanese companies collaborating with governments from all around the world to imagine kimonos symbolizing different nations.

For more in-depth coverage, head to https://kimono.piow.jp/kimonolist.html for a list of all the kimonos by country and explanations from the designers for what motifs they chose and why. The website is in Japanese and rather buggy, so if you’d like to see the same content, but translated in English, take a look at @koikishu ‘s ongoing coverage here (Index in progress).

I thought this was a wonderful example of the kind of cultural exchange and cultural sharing we like to promote at wearejapanese, rather than cultural appropriation. I would love to hear from our followers about which designs they enjoyed and why.

- Saito

[kusuri-no-uchi]

To celebrate the Tokyo Olympics, Japan has organized the creation and display of 213 unique kimono, one for each country participating in the games. I'll probably be posting a lot of them here but if you want to see them all, @koikishu is currently posting them. Aside from having a lovely blog with lots of great east Asian fashion content, I highly recommend you follow them to see the full display, they're all incredible so far!

[youneedone2]

Koikishu

[koikishu]

Thank you so much Koikishu for your kind words and all the effort you put in researching. Years ago you answered my ask on how i could see a Tayuu in kyoto and you made a long list of events along with a map. Thank you for helping my dream come true. I won't forget your kindness. Have a beautiful day.

Oh. My. GOD! I can't believe you're the same anon from 2020!

I'm so happy I could help you with this dream! I'm overjoyed that my answers to your questions helped you to plan your trip! I wish you the very best on your trip and I hope you get an excellent view of Shimabara tayuu! Safe travels!

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Obi - Chuya Obi

Motifs: Seasonal flowers, Jigami (Fan-shaped papers)

Seasonality: Seasonless

Obi Length: 382 cm

Background Color: HTML code AC99B2

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/469896/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Obi - Fukuro Obi

Motifs: Gold and Silver Lines

Seasonality: Seasonless

Obi Length: 456 cm

Background Color: HTML code 9C9DA3

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/465667/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Bridal Furisode/ Kakeshita

Motifs: Shou-Chiku-Bai'(Pine tree, Bamboo and Ume Blossom),  Goshoguruma (Court Carriage)

Seasonality: Winter

Sleeve Length: 110 cm

Background Color: HTML code D19041

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/440949/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Obi - Fukuro Obi

Motifs: Japanese bush clover, Chrysanthemum

Seasonality: Autumn

Obi Length: 432 cm

Background Color: Off-White

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/473433/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Obi - Nagoya Obi

Motifs: Stripes

Seasonality: Seasonless

Obi Length: 351 cm

Background Color: HTML code CF5846

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/460488/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Obi - Fukuro Obi

Motifs: Wave, Yamaji (Wiggling Stripe), Kanzemizu (Water Stream), Folding Fans

Seasonality: Seasonless

Obi Length: 420 cm

Background Color: Black

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/474383/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Obi - Nagoya Obi

Motifs: Umbrella, Yanagi (willow)

Seasonality: Spring-Summer

Obi Length: 330 cm

Background Color: Black

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/474157/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Obi - Chuya Obi

Motifs: Kai Awase (Shell-matching Game), Chrysanthemums, Hanabishi (Flower Diamonds), Stripes

Seasonality: Autumn

Obi Length: 388 cm

Background Color: HTML code F2EEDF

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/477273/

[koikishu]

Koikishu’s Fantasy Kimono Tansu: Furisode/ Chuufurisode

Motifs: Seasonal Flowers, Folding Fan, Court Carriage

Seasonality: Season-less

Sleeve Length: 110 cm

Background Color: Black

Source: https://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/477779/