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Invoice Cunningham Mens Winter Put On The New York Times

While jackets and trousers are tailored to suit, a pair of denims, however, is a extra informal affair. Denim is a staple cloth winter styles for men in Paris, whether slim-fit jeans, skinny jeans, or relaxed fit. Vintage denim with a casual t-shirt and leather/bomber jacket is a favorite for many social outings. Chunky shawl-collar cardigans add a big amount of bulk and warmth when worn over collared shirts, turtlenecks, lengthy sleeve shirts, and even sweatshirts.

Around this time, plaid and candy stripe shirts also grew to become trendy. Most three-piece suits were double-breasted, but there have been additionally single-breasted choices. The swimsuit jacket was higher waisted than earlier than and had wide pointed lapels to emphasise the shoulders and waist. It additionally featured a three- or four-button closure down the front. Suit pants were flat within the entrance, had tapered legs, and a thinner waistline. Gone have been the shoulder pads and stiff fit of the earlier decade.

Even more so if they’re geared up with a thick, treaded sole that provides a bit of traction on wet or icy surfaces. Buy well and take care of them correctly, and a great pair of labor boots will last you for all times, not only for winter. During the day, you could have a plus 4 suit, you would have a riding go well with, and so forth. There are additionally cool iterations with bells in their jackets, a lot of pleats, similar to Norfolk jackets or half-Norfolk jackets. Another well-liked coat is the Covert coat, which today is still popularized by English brand Cording’s.

During the Roaring 20s, styles from all around the world – significantly Europe – have been making their method throughout the ocean. Although leisure apparel gained traction, formal styles had been nonetheless very a lot in vogue. In terms of fabrics, the Twenties saw a slight departure from the previous decade.

Winter is the season to flex all of that outerwear that’s been hogging up area in your closet, and long winter coats are considered one of our top picks for this yr. They defend towards the weather and verify off the box in the style department. Car-coats (overcoats) present an informal mens winter fashion search for a high-low strategy. Cotton is actually everywhere and can make up the majority of your winter wardrobe. Everything from your t-shirts and denims to your sweaters, socks and dress shirts are produced from cotton.

Throw a lightly padded version over a roll neck and tailored trouser pairing, like above, and it’ll keep you heat whereas stopping issues from looking too funereal. This is a major example of how accessories can elevate a glance. Go for one in camel and put on it together with your whole tailoring collection, from navy fits through to gray wool separates. While softly padded overcoats could be probably the most adaptable alternative, generally there’s simply no beating a significantly sharp, structured overcoat. Especially for formal occasions or instances when you need to look ready for business.

It nonetheless has the padded baffles of a puffer, but contains a modern and glossy silhouette. The Cloud Parka has a mid-thigh length, and an 800-fill power down insulation, so you will not need to sacrifice heat for style. Its exterior is produced from a lightweight, but durable and waterproof mix of organic winter outfits men cotton and recycled polyester. While some jackets on this listing are tried and true expedition jackets, or derived from expedition jackets, I like that the Capital Parka was designed for city use from its inception. When I first examined the Capital Parka, it was made with 60% recycled polyester, but the newest model out there is now made with 100% recycled polyester.

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History of Chinese standing collars (part 2: Republican era)

Quick recap: I was debating with myself whether “Mandarin collar” should be a thing because standing collars throughout Chinese history looked different. In part 1 I went through standing collars in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, now I’m going to investigate the Republican era (1912-1949). I numbered the styles in part 1 but they’re only guidelines so you don’t have to remember anything.

*I’m not including Manchu womenswear in this post because they weren’t very significant to collars and there’s a lot I need to verify, so hopefully I’ll make separate posts about it one day.

1910s

Summary of 1910s Han women’s fashion here.

Let’s look at Han women’s fashion first. The 1910s continued the use of collar style 7 from the 1890s and 1900s; this style of collar, often called 元宝领 yuanbaoling, ingot collar, or 马鞍领 ma’anling, saddle collar, after the objects it resembles, was so tall that it reached the cheeks of the wearer and could not be closed in the front at all. It could be trimmed with binding, piping, or commonly in this era, fur or ruffles. It could have either rectangular or round edges. It was closed by one 盘扣 pankou, this fabric braided button, at the base, but it could have more pankous for ornamental purposes. Around this time people began experimenting with stiffening and structure in standing collars; this was a result of Western influence, specifically the standing collars on some Western military uniforms. I don’t think Chinese collars were ever boned like Victorian and Edwardian women’s collars, but a layer of stiff interlining was probably enough to give a collar shape and rigidity. Because of the extraordinary height of collar style 7, it had to be stiffened.

Source here

Calendar painting from 1914. This collar has a rectangular edge and is trimmed with fur.

Source here

Calendar painting from 1915-1916. This collar has a rounded edge and wide binding.

However, this ultra tall collar wasn’t everybody’s cup of tea and normal height collars existed as well, especially in the beginning and end of the decade. A new invention of this era was this tall collar with slightly rounded edges closed by two to three pankou----in some extreme cases four. I believe they were stiffened, but even if they were not, the use of wide, heavyweight binding could give it shape and rigidity. This style probably grew out of collar styles 2 and 3 from 19th century Han women’s collars, but it is going to become very iconic and distinct later in the 30s so let’s label it collar style 8. All Han women’s standing collars before the 1970s were extremely fitted, i.e. they completely hug the wearer’s neck and could sometimes be restrictive to neck movement. The loose fitted collars often seen on modern mass produced cheongsam is not historically accurate.

Source here

Calendar painting from 1911 showing collar style 8. It had three pankou, wide double row binding and could be closed at the front.

Source here

Calendar painting from 1919 also showing collar style 8. Throughout the 1890s, 1900s, 1910s and early 20s, innovative/Western trims like lace were commonly used instead of plain binding.

Quickly turning our attention to menswear. I’m not a menswear expert so feel free to add info or references. In the 1910s, menswear collars followed a similar development. After looking at more photos from the period, I figured out that in the late 1900s, men’s collars still had rectangular edges and were pretty low. This was also echoed in the formal dress code issued by the republican government in 1912. You can read more about the formal dress code in this article, it’s a great guideline for understanding ceremonial clothing in the republican era. 

Source here (I’m probably gonna pull most of the menswear photos from the photo album in this article cause they are conveniently dated)

1907 photograph of a certain Mr Ye Jinglv, a legend who preserved his photographs from the 1900s to the 1960s, wearing a 短衫 duanshan short robe and pants.

I have no idea where this collar type came from but the three main suspects are European military uniform collars, Japanese uniform collars (also inspired by European military uniform collars) and Qing Dynasty officials’ collars (now attached to the tunic itself). 

As the 1910s progressed, men’s collars gained rounded edges and grew taller just like women’s collars, but they were never so tall to the point that they could not be closed in the front. They were still closed by one plain pankou at the base (men’s pankou has always been plain). This is likely the collar style 6 I identified in part 1 but wasn’t sure about. These collars don’t appear to be stiffened, but rather just constructed of heavyweight fabric similar to the robe itself. Oh and sometimes in photographs you can see men wearing two collars, that is because both the 长衫 changshan, long robe, and 马褂 magua, riding vest, had standing collars in the 1910s, so when both are worn at the same time there will be two collars.

Source here

1916 photograph of Mr Ye Jinglv in a changshan and magua, collar style 6.

1920s

Summary of 1920s Han women’s fashion 1, 2, 3

Going into the 20s collar style 7 went out of fashion completely. The 20s was a wild decade and everything went, but overall collars usually ranged from medium height to tall. There is a wide variety of collar designs in the 20s, women’s dresses with no collar or Western collars like sailor collar, shawl collar or no collar at all etc. all existed, I’ll just list the most common standing collar designs of Chinese origin.

Early 20s collars decreased in height slightly but were still tall standing collars, with rectangular edges, binding and two to three pankous. Let’s call this collar style 9 because it has a will of its own. It’s weirdly reminiscent of collar style 4 from part 1 but the difference is that collar style 4 was unstiffened and had rectangular edges. I don’t think designers in the republican era ever really consciously referenced any historical collar shapes prior to the 19th century... Fashion history was a non-existent academic discipline at that time.

Source here

Calendar painting from 1920 showing collar style 9. It is unstiffened and moderately tall. It has slightly rounded edges, two pankous and a thin row of binding/piping.

Source here

Calendar painting from 1920-21, showing similar collar style 9 with thin binding and two pankou.

Toward the mid 20s both wide and thin binding could be used and the number of pankou ranged from one to three. I’ve seen multiple times collars with only one pankou at the bottom but still could close completely at the front, which means stiffening was likely used to keep the shape of the collar; I’ll number this collar style 10. The decorations of the mid 20s pursued a tacky aesthetic and were heavily inspired by the 19th century. Alternatively, collars could be decorated with scalloped edges or geometric Western trim. The overall aesthetic was still very 19th century Chinese though. I feel like internal hooks and bars could’ve been used to close these collars, like Western or Japanese military uniform collars, but this is pure speculation.

Source here

Watercolor ca. 1926 showing a medium height collar style 10. It closes with only one pankou but holds its shape very well.

Source here or see watermark

Mid 20s artwork showing a similar collar, albeit with thin binding.

Starting from 1928-29 there was this huge trend of using tall, side closing collars. This collar was stiff and structured, tall and closed at the side or back with either pankou or hooks and eyes/bars. It covers the wearer’s neck completely and doesn’t have any openings. This kind of collar was frequently applied to the newly developed cheongsam, which was a one piece dress, to emulate a Western flapper look. The art deco aesthetic was en vogue in the years 1929-31, so there were many cheongsam with innovative closures instead of pankou. I personally really love this look it’s very underrated. This would be collar style 11; it was truly one of a kind since it was never seen again in Chinese fashion history. Rest in Power.

Source here

Painting ca. 1929 showing collar style 11. This is probably closed at the back? Anyway the pankou were not emphasized at this time.

Source here

Kong Sang Hong ad from 1929 showing collar style 11 without visible pankou.

Now menswear again. In the 20s, the tall collar style 6 went out of fashion, following trends in womenswear. The new collar was medium height and still closed by one pankou at the base. It could have either rounded or rectangular edges but rectangular or mostly rectangular edges seem to be more common. I’d say this is similar to collar style 10.

Source here

1925 photograph of Ye Jinglv wearing again changshan and magua.

1930s

Summary of 1930s Han women’s fashion 1, 2

Returning to Han women. Collar 11′s popularity continued to around 1931, when it began to be replaced by a revived version of collar style 8. Collar style 8 with three buttons dominated the majority of the 30s, and these buttons didn’t necessarily have to be pankou; any kind of decorative loop button, clasp or frog closure could be used. 30s collars emphasized the roundness of the buttons, so beads or pearls were commonly used as buttons.

Source here

Calendar painting from 1932 showing collar style 8. 

Source here

Mid 30s advertisement showing collar style 8 with bead buttons matching those on the cardigan.

Source here

1932 cover of The Young Companion showing collar style 8 with pearl/bead buttons. Oh collars on a transparent cheongsam would usually be opaque because the interlining/stiffening needs to be hidden.

Men’s collars of the 30s decreased in height again, this time becoming really quite short. Round and rectangular edges coexisted but round edges were still more common. Still closed by one pankou. Not many changes otherwise (gosh, menswear always changes at a glacial pace, y’all men need to step up your game). This foreshadows 40s Han women’s collars so let’s label this collar style 12. Men’s changshan and magua collars stayed this way well into the 40s and 50s.

Source here

1935 photograph of Ye Jinglv in changshan with collar style 12.

In the late 30s/early 40s collars dropped in height significantly, regressing to collar styles 9 or 10. It was usually closed with one or two pankou (because there was only enough space for two maximum). 

Source here

Late 30s/early 40s artwork depicting the revived collar style 10.

1940s

Summary of 1940s fashion here

As the 40s progressed collars became even shorter, eventually so short that only one pankou could be attached. This developed from collar style 9 but since it was so low and so distinct to the 40s I’d say this is also collar style 12. It may appear similar to collar style 3 from the 19th century but it has rounded edges and is also stiffened and slightly taller.

Source here

Early to mid 40s artwork showing collar style 12.

19th century trims became fashionable again in the early 40s, especially collars with multiple rows of binding/piping. However because of scarcity of materials during the war, that style was only ever seen on actresses and celebrities; cheongsam collars for the average woman were plain.

Source here

40s Indanthren fabric ad, showing low collar style 12.

In summary:

Collar style 7: cursed belle époque (ca. 1890-1918) women’s collars that touched the wearer’s face. Extremely tall, stiffened, both rounded and rectangular edges existed. Closed by one pankou at the bottom but sometimes had more pankou for ornamental purposes. Worn by Han women and the plain version for men.

Collar style 8: first appeared in the 1910s, popular in the late 10s and throughout the 30s. As tall as possible without restricting the wearer’s neck movements, stiffened, rounded edges. Closed by two to three pankou. Decorated with wide binding or Western trims like lace in the 10s, multiple rows of binding in the 30s. Worn by Han women. 

Collar style 9: developed from collar style 8, popular in the early 20s and late 30s/early 40s. Slightly shorter (medium height), stiffened, rounded edges. Closed by two pankou. Thin binding. Worn by Han women.

Collar style 10: developed from collar style 9, popular in the mid 20s and late 30s/early 40s. Slightly shorter (medium to low height), stiffened, rounded edges. Closed by one pankou at the base. Both wide and thin binding. Worn by Han women and a similar version by men.

Collar style 11: distinctly Western collar, popular 1929-1931. As tall as possible without restricting the wearer’s neck movements, stiffened, rectangular edges. Closed at the side or back with pankou or hooks and eyes. Often plain or of the same fabric as the dress. Worn by Han women.

Collar style 12: developed from collar style 10, popular throughout the 40s. Very short, stiffened, rounded edges. Closed by one pankou at the base. Commonly had thin binding. Worn by Han women and men.

Phew, I thought this was gonna be a short and simple post but it ended up taking way more of my time than I wanted it to. I’m gonna do one last post on the 50s and 60s and maybe address the state of Chinese standing collars nowadays, hopefully that will be actually simple to make lol.

[mscoyditch]

D'Artagnan.

" Some of my favourite designs from the French couturier Jean Patou (1880-1936).The House of Patou was founded 1919.

#1 Evening dress “Nuit de Chine”, Jean Patou, Spring-Summer 1925. This black silk satin embroidered dress is an example of the orientalist inspiration of the era. The tree is made with pearly white bugle beads, the leaves are made of small white pearls and the Chinese ornaments are embroidered with bright red bugle beads framed by a line of silver bugles © Collection Musée Galliera Paris

#2 Jean Patou, Evening dress, c.1924 in silk, velvet with metallic thread, and metal beads © Met museum

#3 Red chiffon dress & chocolate brown silk velvet coat: drop waist dress, brown velvet flared hem flounce, the red chiffon embroidered in wool yarn & glass beads in floral design, balloon sleeves, B 34", H 40", L 45", short flared velvet coat, rouleau shawl collar, flounced sleeves, red chiffon lining, L 34", coat labelled "Paris Jean Patou 7 Rue Saint Florentin" © Augusta auctions

#4 Evening dress 1929 by Jean Patou; in printed and patterned semi-sheer lamé silk crepe with metallic thread and supplementary warp patterning. © LACMA

#5 as #2

#6 ,#7 #8 # as #3

#9 Jean Patou in the 1910’s

~~~ooo~~~

Jean Patou (1880-1936 )was a champion of sporty elegance and modernity, and a major haute couture figure in the 1920s.He had great business acumen and was quick to realise the potential of fashionable couture in the burgeoning fashion industry .

He was born in Normandy northern France. His younger sister Marie was an important inspiration for his fashion work. His father was in the leather tanning business and he briefly worked in his father's tannery.

He also worked in his Uncle’s fur trade business .In 1910 he decided to combine it with a dressmaking business in Paris but in 1912 he then started a second dressmaking business called Mason Parry, at the Rond Point, Paris .This was a Tailleurs selling dresses and furs.

In 1914 Jean Patou produced his first collection which was sold out to one American buyer but when war broke out he joined the Zovares regiment In 1919 on his return from the War the House of Patou was launched showing his first couture collection.

By the 1920s fashionable couture had become a big autonomous industry and Patou as a businessman was quick to recognise this potential. He first visited the USA 1922 and again in 1925 gaining new ideas and inspiration for his elegant sportswear and accessories boutiques in France and the USA.

In 1925 was the year he launched his comfortable jersey sportswear ensembles, golf and tennis attire and swimsuits from his boutique Le Coin des Sports” on the ground floor his premises at 7 rue Saint-Florentin Paris. He devoted various rooms for each individual sport orientated fashion design.On the strength of this Boutiques were also set up in Deauville and Biarritz concentrating on swim wear .He worked with textile manufacturers to produce non shrink knitted swimsuits in exclusive colours using thread-dyeing methods, a clever idea to prevent other lesser competitors copying his work . He also added co-ordinating skirts scarves, hats and accessories as well as perfumes to extend his business. He was a trend setter producing innovative sports wear for tennis star Suzanne Lenglen; the "cardigan "; and ‘designer ‘ ties for men to co-ordinate with the fabric in his womens ranges

After his premature death in 1936 his brother-in law Raymond Barbas took over the firm.During the Depression the business survived on sale of perfumes

Designers for the House of Patou have included Marc Bohan (1954–1956), Karl Lagerfeld (1960–1963) and Jean Paul Gaultier (1971–1973). Christian Lacroix joined the label in 1981. The last fashion collection produced by the House of Patou label was in 1987 when the haute couture business closed definitively following Lacroix's departure to open his own house.The Patou perfumes are still produced and have been owned by a British Company since 2011. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Patou

Love D'Artagnan xxx".

[thisfits]

25 Smaller Menswear Brands and Stores having Black Friday 2018 Sales

One of the top posts over on the frugalmalefashion subreddit right now asks “What are some small brands/companies that you love having great sales this weekend?”

Hopefully this post helps answer that question.

To be transparent, I’m not familiar with all of these companies. But after compiling a post of great sales from multi-billion-dollar companies, I’ve enjoyed the process of going through these more boutique sites, learning about their back stories and finding cool merchandise.

American Trench

15% off sitewide with code BFCM. Pictured above, WeatherWool Peacoat in Olive.

American Trench started off bringing a “Made in USA” trench coat to market, and has since expanded into other garments, including some neat collaborations (see my earlier post about their shirts with Epaulet). They just announced an epic-looking Jeep Coat, but I think I’m more into their Silver Traveler Socks.

Armitage & McMillan

30% off entire store (excluding eyewear) with code BLACKFRIDAY.

Men’s shop in Denver, founded by a pair of guys who used to work for UNIS and Brooklyn Circus. Brands they carry include APC, Gitman Vintage, Lady White, Norse Projects, and UNIS.

Battenwear

20% off all apparel with promo code Battensgiving2018. Code expires Tuesday 11/27.

Outerwear line designed by Shinya Hasegawa, who worked with Daiki Suzuki on Woolrich Woolen Mills. Inspired by surf and outdoor wear from the 1960s through 1980s.

BlackBlue

20% off “seasonal items”. Click the link above to see what’s included.

Sale includes Barena, Corridor, Gitman, Monitaly, orSlow and Yuketen.

Bluer Denim

50% off entire shop with code BLACK50.

Brave Star Selvage

10% to 20% off. See site for promo codes.

A small denim brand that produces relatively affordable jeans and jackets in Los Angeles from Japanese and Cone Mills denim. They seem to get consistently reviews on the rawdenim subreddit. Will very likely make my next jeans purchase from them.

Bridge & Burn

20% off all Bridge & Burn goods with code NOV20.

West-coast inspired outwear. Based in Portland, OR.

Division Road

They’re supposed to be running a 20% off apparel and accessories promotion, but the code isn’t working for me. I’ll update the post if that changes.

eHaberdasher

Flash sales on shawl-collar cardigans, flannel trousers, and Carmina shoes.

Pretty much the only place I buy my tailored clothes at this point. Always a fantastic value. You really should check the whole site, especially jackets and trousers.

Franklin & Poe

20% off with code TOFURKEY. Exclusions apply.

This store carries some great brands. And although exclusions apply, the code appears to work on 3Sixteen denim.

Grand Frank

50% off select merchandise.

Don’t know much about this brand, and there isn’t much out there, but they’ve got some great-looking “Made in Italy” suede jackets at suspiciously low prices. Caveat emptor, but I’m in for one. I’ll try to remember to report back on my experience.

Kent Wang

Okay, this is a bit of a stretch because Kent Wang never goes on sale, and makes a point of saying so every Black Friday. Their business model means they offer an everyday great value. I can appreciate that.

Kiriko

20% off your entire purchase with code KINYOUBI. Free gifts at $100, $200, and $300 spend.

“Kiriko Made is a Portland based Japanese textiles and apparel brand forged from the spirit of Mottainai; a Japanese value that embraces one to waste nothing and recycle everything.” Cool.

Loyal Stricklin

30% off on Black Friday with code BLACKFRIDAY18.

Leather goods crafted in Nashville, Tennessee. 20% of profits are donated to charities. Their 2018 donations go to the International Justice Mission, which fights modern-day slavery.

Namu Shop

30% off sitewide with code TURKEY.

North Menswear

25% off all $500+ orders with code BLACKTOBLUE.

Rogue Territory

30% OFF Select Styles with code RGTBLKFRI2018.

STAG Provisions

Daily apparel deals all weekend. Friday’s is 20% off all outerwear with code FRIDAY20.

Some great Schott and RRL jackets included. Also check out their unique Vintage section.

Self Edge

15% off sitewide with code BlackFriday2018.

This only ever happens once a year.

Standard & Strange

$50 gift card for every $250 in spend. Free international shipping. 20% off Red Wings (except 2966 and 9060) with code TURKEYWING.

Stock Mfg. Co.

30% off sitewide with code BlackFriday30.

Chicago-based, American-made workwear. Interestingly, they design uniforms and apparel for business--actual workwear.

Upstate Stock

25% off all Upstate Stock products and free domestic shipping for orders over $25 with code BLACKFRIDAY.

American-made accessories.

Wilson & Willy’s

20% off storewide with code holiday20.

Minneapolis-based shop with a menswear line.

Wright Hand Twill

20% off everything except sale items. Free US shipping.

Denim specialists in Portland, OR featuring Kiriko Made, Naked & Famous, and Stevenson Overall Co., among other brands.

Wood & Faulk

20% off and daily deals through the weekend with code BLK2018.

Waxed canvas bags,  handmade leather accessories, and home goods.

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Women's Scarves for All Occasions

Womens clothing is the most exotic and diverse product on the market, and with good reason. One thing you have to consider is the fact that there are so many different pieces from v-necks, to cardigans, all the way to the highly functional camisole. What many people tend to overlook however is the scarf. There are many different scarves on the market, and they all serve a different purpose. Butterfly Whisper

The most common purpose of the scarf is to keep one's neck warm, and such scarves can be used by both men or women. The thing to remember, however, is that there are several scarves designed specifically for women, which means one thing and one thing only - more variety!

That's right, you have your pick of the litter when it comes to scarves for women, and the first we will talk about is the hood-scarf. You have probably seen one of these even if you don't realise it, and it is essentially a one piece scarf that hangs freely around the neck while covering the head. With scarves like these it is very important that there be enough scarf (in all seriousness) to cover both areas - the head and the neck. Buy Scarves for women

The shawl is another great scarf variant and it comes in many different styles. One of the most popular is the silk and cashmere variant. Wraps however are much more common in the western world, and wraps are actually considered a form of scarf.

There are many different wraps, some of which are considered to be lightweight, and others that are a bit heavier for colder times during the year. One thing to note though is that womens scarves can become prohibitively expensive depending on the material they are composed of. Something you need to remember however is that a higher quality scarf will produce a much better experience in both comfort and effect. Shop Scarves for Women

Of course, you don't need to utilise a full wrap when you can actually try a standard scarf. Remember to search the internet, trying to find scarves of any type. You may be surprised at the different types of women's scarves that you come across, and you might be surprised at just what they can be used for. That being said, now would be a great time for you to start looking at the various scarves on the market.

Whether you're trying to stay warm or simply trying to make a fashion statement, there is something out there for you. Before you commit to anyone, make sure you look at the people around you, trying to see what type of womens scarves they happen to be wearing in public. The thing about scarves is that they will effectively shape your personality, and they may very well turn you into a different person, at least outwardly. Choose carefully before you make your commitment and become the person you've always wanted to be.

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