#pattern drafting

[leomakeshistory]

I made Elphaba’s shirt from Wicked

When I saw Wicked I got completely obsessed with this shirt she wears during What Is This Feeling. The collar just absolutely blew my mind, and I kept trying to figure out how they did it.

I figured it was a classic shirt collar with the points lengthened and then folded back on themselves, so I experimented a little and VOILA!!

Additional little Gelphie nod: pink and green cuff buttons 🥹

[dkettchen]

(After several weeks of pants agony that is still not quite over) I think I've finally cracked the code so

have an illustrated darts/fullness/etc pattern drafting master post!

(incl. how to take in women's tops for flat(ter) chests! among many other applications)

If you're interested in dart manipulation specifically, do also check out TheClosetHistorian's video on it! She shows how the pattern makes the shape using paper, and shows more places darts can go on a bodice.

[bananna-threads]

UUUUUGGGGHHHH I am trying to make my own slopers, but struggling so much.. I am on my 11th bodice draft, 5th skirt draft (3rd sleeve, but not attached yet), and I CANNOT figure out how to fit this thing.

I feel like I just lack the right...intuition? Plus I made things doubly hard on myself by refusing to make paper patterns. My partner very kindly gifted me a short throw projector for Xmas, so I decided "hey, I'll teach myself how to pattern draft, and create digital patterns at the same time! Less paper waste!" Well, one set of bedsheets later from all my mock-ups, I hardly think I've succeeded in being less wasteful.

This is my latest draft, after trying to adjust for what I now know is called "swayback" (i.e. my spine curves at the end, causing my butt to stick out, and my waistline to be at a sort of angle). You can kind of see it in my second picture. See how my back waistline is higher than the front waistline?

This meant the center back length of my bodice had to be shorter than on the front and sides, and the back skirt had to be taller at the waist. I hope to go more in depth later, but I wanted to have it figured out before I start offering any advice.

Speaking of advice, I would love some help from someone more experienced at fitting clothing! At this point, I know it doesn't look quite right, but I've reached the limits of my skills, and don't even trust my eyes anymore. What counts as a fit-issue wrinkle, and what is just a...fabric-being-fabric wrinkle? I don't trust myself enough to tell the difference considering it took me 11 iterations to reach this point.

TLDR: What is wrong with my sloper and how do I fix it??? 😭

[chronic-invisibility]

does anyone with experience drafting or modifying knitting patterns have any advice for how to figure out how to scale up a project? i have a pattern for arm warmers that i want to try making but they’re for kids so i know i’ll need to make them bigger overall, but i’m not sure how to figure out how much bigger to make them, specifically casting on/ the circumference in general, i’m just going to knit them until they’re as long as i want them to be so i’m less worried about figuring out how much longer to make them. any advice or resources would be much appreciated!

[fatherforgivemeforihavesinned]

sewing tip

trying to draft your own patterns from scratch? stumped by those pesky curves? don't have for whatever reason a french curve? well if you have access to a printer there are sites that have templates you can print out and use! literally changed my life last night when i learnt that here's the site i used but you can always search for others

[owenthetokencishet]

My wardrobe class is probably the only place I ever have and ever will experience gender-based discrimination.

I was taught how to draft patterns, but only for women's clothing. I just tried drafting a bodice block for myself but my nonexistent boobs, wide shoulders, and square torso uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh broke it

This is funny to me.

[bismuthburnsblue]

Lady Stede part 1: the shift!

(this is all about prep & the pattern, tomorrow we will begin the actual making!!)

so as ive already mentioned, im not focusing in on a specific period for my shift pattern, instead trying to make something i can get the most wear out of as possible. i dont think theres going to be anything inaccurate about my finished shift, but thats not been a specific consideration for me.

Ill mostly be following this blogpost by Angela Clayton & the cutting guide linked within it. theres a couple other resources ive looked at to make this, but i think those form the foundation of how im going forward.

im using a linen that i bought a couple of years ago for the purposes of making a shirt or shift, so it feels good to be finally getting around to using it! its pretty light and slightly see through, and when i prewashed it the hand softened up a ton, which im super happy about too. it should drape up really nicely!

its 140cm wide (actually, its more like 145cm, but lets ignore that, im just going to work it into the length of my shift) so ill be cutting my body with a shoulder seam for better fabric efficiency.

If you wanna read more specific stuff about patterning & even see my cutting plan, its below the cut! this was just getting a little long :)

Theres 4 shapes i need to cut for a shift - the main body, the sleeves, the side gores & the underarm gussets - but a lot of the measurements are pretty arbitrary, especially in this era where they were a relatively loose garment.

i knew i didnt want too much extra around the bust, both because it ties into how far off the shoulder the seam falls, and for sensory reasons- i hate having too much fabric underneath a tight garment, aka my stays- and i wanted slim sleeves for a similar reason, as sleeves in this era are pretty tight, so i drafted a quick mockup from my bust & flexed bicep measurements (and a couple other things i picked at random) to see how things were looking. you should be able to do a shift without a mockup, but im personally glad i did, because i decided to adjust a couple numbers after it!

while thinking about cutting, i thought id have a look to see if there was any lay planning software out there- i found this one, which i think is for cutting wood, but works great for planning out rectangular sewing projects too! i had a great time tweaking numbers until it fit together in the best way possible !!

So! heres my final cutting plan w/ measurements :) ill need to cut a diagonal down my gores to make triangles, but other than that, this is exactly what ill be working with!

(i have more yardage than this, so the extra section will just be left attached to the rest of it! though i did see narrow cuffs for the sleeves mentioned in some sources, so ill get those out of there too, if i decide to include them!)

[vafibrearts]

As I continue working on my upcoming quilt along pattern, I've been putting together a few test blocks to check that my dimensions are right. I'm really happy with the results so far and can't wait to share the pattern when it's ready!

[callmedaisy]

Quick sketching

[vincentbriggs]

Do you usually draft your patterns directly onto oaktag?

I hadn't heard of oaktag until this ask, so no. I use builder's paper. It's not great quality, but it's cheap and stiff and pencil marks show up on it and it's what we used in college. I got my roll from the college supply store at the start of the fashion course, but it looks like hardware store have it too.

Mine's a bit wider than this at 92-ish cm. I think it was longer too, since I've had it for a decade and it's only now running out. I will definitely have to get a new roll sometime this year.

[leomakeshistory]

Thank god I have professional pattern drafting assistance. Thank you for your service, Gir.

[atheneergane]

Testing a new pattern for a knit top.

[prettiestpear]

I'm looking for other people who sew!

I'm looking for more sewing and slow fashion blogs to follow! Personally, I'm a big quilter (improv quilting mostly) and I am working on growing my garment sewing and drafting skills. I would love to follow more people with similar passions :-)

[anielskaaniela]

Puff Sleeve Pattern Making: Easy Step-by-Step Guide 2

In this post, you will learn how to draft a puff sleeve pattern using a different method, so you can compare techniques and choose the best one for your sewing projects. Welcome back to Part 2 of our puff sleeve pattern making series! If you’ve tried the Slash and Spread method from the first tutorial, you now have a great foundation. But did you know there’s another way to achieve voluminous…

[pheere]

Stefan Cooke

[funshinebf]

I FUCKING DID IT

I FINALLY FINISHED DRAFTING THE VASH DOLL'S JACKET PATTERN!!!!! now im onto making a mockup using the pattern!!! so far ive cut out the pieces for the bust and the back for the top half n then fray checked them both ^_^ i get soooo mad when i have to stop for the night cause my back/joints start hurting... like bitch cmon i wanna get more done 😭 but anyways. im so happy to finally be done drafting patterns 😭😭😭 shit took WAY longer than i wanted it to