#sashiko(ish)

[lady-bee-holmes]

Stitch stitch stitch…

[what-inyarnation]

Anyhow, speaking of a slightly more successful mending project...

I finished mending my second pair of jeans last Wednesday! I was initially only planning to sew a few rows of seams in...

...but I ended up finishing the whole thing in a night 😺

That's the completed, squared patch, before I trimmed the patch on the inner side and hemmed the edges in.

Here's the patch square with the hemmed edges from the inside...

...and here's how it looks from the outside 😺

(and it's already washed, dried and ironed too! It's lying in wait in my wardrobe now, ready to be worn again anytime soon 😌😺✨)

[queer-ecopunk]

how did you first start visibly mending? do you have any resources or recommendations for someone looking to start learning how to do it? all of your stuff looks sick btw 🫡

Sorry I started answering this and then put in drafts and completely forgot about it🤙

I had seen some cool posts about mending and then found a hole in a pair of jeans and decided to try it!

There's a lot of awesome posts in the #visible mending, #clothing repair, #sashiko and #darning tags that can give you an idea of what kinds of mending interest you, and what types of repair might be most applicable to the damage/type of clothing you're working with. @wastelesscrafts has a lot of great resources for mending too!

If you're interested in visible mending, definitely think about the purpose of the repair, since that can influence what kinds of mending you might want to try. Do you want to close a hole? Fill it and make sure it doesn't get bigger? Stabilize and strengthen a weak bit of fabric, or keep it from fraying or unraveling? Different types of mends often lend themselves to different styles.

Usually I'm closing or filling in holes in flexible-ish fabric, so I tend to do a lot of patch + hand embroidery. There is a lot of versatility in terms of look and function! I recommend looking into sashiko, a Japanese style of embroidery that is great for mends and reinforcing fabric. Patches can also be done on a sewing machine, depending on the fabrics involved.

For some repairs, particularly on knitted fabrics and places where fabric patches might be awkward, darning is another great option. There are many techniques under the darning umbrella, but they typically consist of weaving with embroidery thread or yarn over a hole or worn fabric.

If you have any knitting experience or interest, there are lots of cool knit-repair (in)visible techniques, which are also concidered darning? I don't know that much about these because knitting does not agree with my brain, but they're a great option for certain types of clothes.

Overall, there's a wide variety of cool and useful techniques, depending on what you're repairing, what vibes you want, and what techniques are most accessible to you. Go nuts! And feel free to tag me if you post your mends!! I'd love to see them :)

[paivazenbriha]

Finally it was cold enough to wear a knitted sweater on our morning walk! A sweater made by my grandma, ofc 😌

Also the pants I'm wearing? I bought them from a secondhand shop like seven-ish years ago. The crotch has been mended to hell and back with sewing, sashiko and patches on patches. I think everyone deserves clothes they like so much that they'll just not give up on them.

[dogsnappinginthesun]

Needle scrolls I made these past two weeks-ish, with labels. Figured after years of sewing that I should actually sort and learn about my needles. Also made sashiko labels for when I finally order them.

[dinosaurcharcuterie]

A month ago, at one-ish in the morning, when all the best decisions are made, I was messing around in Tinkercad to recreate archeological finds of bag handle frames from iron age Scandinavian areas, when it struck me that a) I can just use the svg import setting to get these in there and b) I wasn't interested in using leather or wool, so why was I suddenly hell bent on using a historical shape? I could make my own as long as the general concept of "two big holes, attachment holes, some weight to the entire thing" was there. So... I made some rain clouds. In glow in the dark filament, because that's what was in the house.

Long post under break

Did I have anything remotely suitable for making a bag? Of course not. My knitting yarn is budget acrylic used for white elephant gifts and toddler whims, and my fabric stash is light cottons and stretch materials for dresses. But I vaguely remembered a V&A tutorial on boro that went at it from a "mend with what you have if you don't have sashiko thread and needles" perspective. I had a lot of scraps in the cabbage patch. I had, in a moment of madness, bought some truly awful polyester embroidery thread a few years before that was just sitting there. So, after patching together a flimsy backing, sorting on enough scraps to get to denim weight and yolo-ing together a lining to keep the thread heavy backing from snatching on every thing I owned, all that was left to do was a bit of embroidery. With chronic joint pain. Just as the seasons were changing.

It took a month, 64m of thread in 8 colors, and I chose to be stabbed repeatedly with straight pins over basting because stitching through this with sharp embroidery needles is painful in every sense of the word, and my memory wasn't good enough to patch this as I went, which is what you're supposed to do, apparently.

Things I learned from this stage: don't be like me and forget that boro shrinks your fabric, making your lining about 6cm too big after you've put in 4 inner pockets. Also don't put on the bottom as a part of your fabric piece. This was not fun to construct from this shape. Don't get your embroidery thread from Action, because boy, did this not want to split or sew without tangling. It frayed and pilled while being sewn at one arm's length at a time. Just splurge on sashiko thread, or at least DMC cotton if you follow me in this madness. Seven years of cross stitch under my belt, plus another five of helping assemble beginner kits for a secondary school, and I've never struggled this hard with just a bunch of running stitches. Thank mercy they're not supposed to be even.

Did I know that, if a lot of sources recommend you use certain materials, that might be habit, that might be parroting others--but it's usually because that is the least frustrating way to go about it? Intellectually, yes. Will this be the last time I choose to smother the little voice in my head reminding me of that? Not while the higher quality materials are less easily available.

Bad decisions made, I fumbled through. The only way to get it vaguely symmetrical was to first sew the vertical seam, them the other long side of the bottom, then the short sides. My overlocker didn't even blink when I shoved every fraying, uneven edge through it to keep this from entirely falling apart during use. It feels as solid as heavy canvas, but far softer. My sewing machine, which throws of a fit if anything is too thick or too tight a weave, didn't mind going through this, or over the knots keeping everything in place on the back. "Good enough works" in action, baby.

There was no easing the lining in prettily, so there's a lot of creases. And since all the embroidery is low quality polyester, I can't iron any part of this. Maybe that's for the better. I've got no idea what shape this would be if I went by the actual seam lines.

The only thing left to do was attach my cute little clouds... For which I found no tutorial. Or historical find pictures with enough fabric still attached. Plenty of archeological pictures of one line of big holes, but most people use either the holes meant for straps and sprang or the chunky holes for lots of loops. I'm sure they're learning from other people's mistakes, but those mistakes are severely undocumented with the state Google is in these days. Oh well. The historically accurate thing to do is work with what you have (more crappy embroidery thread) and use what techniques seem sensible based on what you've seen (Frixion pen to transfer the holes off the frame onto the lining and long, looping stitches).

And that's how, in a mere five weeks of work, you make a whimsical bag inspired by rain clouds over a stormy landscape.

Just gotta nip into town to get some flat hoodie thread for a strap.

Note to anyone reading this: it's now 8 hours after I've finished construction on this and I've realized that the sewing hole shape makes more sense if sewn/brute force appliqué'ed directly onto the bag instead of as loops over it.

Will my way work too? Guess I'll find out.

[putthison]

eBay Roundup

There’s a lot of great menswear on eBay, but to find the good stuff, you have to search for hours. Which is why we do these roundups, so that our readers can find good deals easily and quickly. For those looking to get an extra round-up each week, subscribe to our Inside Track newsletter. We not only cover the best of eBay, we also list each week’s store sales.

To find more menswear on eBay, try using our customized search links. We’ve made them so you can quickly hone-in on quality suits, excellent dress shirts, fine footwear, good jeans, workwear, contemporary casualwear, nice ties, great bags, and well-made sweaters.

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Unstructured Barena blue sport coat, 40

Tan checked Isaia sport coat, 40

Outerwear

Funky patchwork zip-up jacket, S

Navy Our Legacy zip-up jacket, S

Duck canvas Taylor Stitch ranch jacket, 38

Navy Aquascutum double breasted overcoat, 38

Vintage black Belstaff double rider, M

Navy Engineered Garments anorak, M

Olive Stan Ray military shirt jacket, M

Stutterheim Eisenhower jacket, M

Tan Arpenteur work jacket, M

Mister Freedom naval jacket, L

French blue Kapital raw edge jacket, L

Pointer Brand hickory striped, XL

Black Buco cafe racer, 44

3sixteen sashiko work jacket, XXL

Sweaters and knits

Washed gray Our Legacy sweatshirt, XS

Green Beams Shetland sweater, S

Vintage Pendleton zip-up cowichan, M

Textured Oliver Spencer zig zag sweater, M

Charcoal cashmere Luciano Barbera sweater, 40

Charcoal Inis Meain Fair Isle cross collar sweater, M

Stone colored Universal Works Donegal sweater, L

Shirts and pants

Navy and gray Arpenteur Breton, S

Hill Side indigo button-down, S

Blue plaid 3sixteen flannel shirt, S

White linen Orlebar Brown popover, M

Yellow plaid Kamakura shirt, 16

Light blue Kamakura oxford button-down, 16.5

Big John washed gray jeans, 31

Charcoal Barena trousers, 32

Imogene + Willie slim fit jeans, 33

Left Field 17 oz jeans, 34

Charcoal flannel Luciano Barbera flannel trousers, 36

Shoes

Ralph Lauren shell cordovan tassel loafers, various sizes

Common Projects grey suede Chelsea boots, 7

Crockett & Jones black Chelsea boots, 9

JM Weston split toe bluchers, 9.5

Veja white sneakers, 9.5

Yuketen tan suede boots, 10

Crockett & Jones cap toe boots, 11 (pictured above)

Alden shortwing boots, 11

Paraboot black shortwings, 12.5

Russell Moccasin penny loafers, 13A

Ties

Navy striped Ben Silver tie (1, 2)

Bags, briefcases, and wallets

Tan canvas Filson backpack

Brown leather RRL shoulder bag

Master Piece boro motif backpack

Thom Browne card case

Jack Spade buffalo motif bill-fold wallet

Black leather Dunhill travel wallet

Brown Nanamica rolltop bag

Misc.

Aquascutum rain cape

Oris diver watches

Timex x Heinz ketchup watch

Levi's advertising sign

Ralph Lauren teddy bear mug

Little model of the Gieves & Hawkes building

Engineered Garments surcingle belts, 30 and 32

Black workwear-ish RRL leather belt, 36

Han Kjobenhavn hornrim sunglasses

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On's Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

[shibaguyz]

Website update! Dang… it’s been a while since we’ve done that. There’s a lot going on in 2020/21 that we can’t wait to tell you all about so we started by updating our LIVE classes page. Follow the link in our profile to see where we’ll be teaching and workshopping in 2020 including three NEW dates just confirmed. Some are open for registration now so jump on those links and register now for your first choice of classes before they sell out. Have questions? Want to boo us for your venue or organization? Use the form at the bottom of that same page to reach out and we’ll get ya taken care of. There’s more coming soon-ish so keep that page book marked for future events and workshops. See y’all in the classroom in 2020!🎉 . . . #shibaguyzlive #crochetclass #knittingclass #sewingclasses #travelingteacher #crochet #knitting #sewing #sashiko #boro #quilting #englishpaperpiecing https://www.instagram.com/p/B6MK6AzpKhq/?igshid=tpm7bcsw5x18

[miselleany]

Maker Mender problems...when you don't quite have time to finish that last mend and another one needs a little extra love on the edges (the blue wave patch). . Mending is a new love of mine and these jeans are putting me through my paces with regular-ish mending. And something they don't often mention is that mending is an on-going process that keeps on and on...which is part of why Boro exists (but certainly not the only reason by far). . Each re-mend is another opportunity to love the item & the stories it holds a little note though. Another memory, another cherished moment. . I can't wait to finish this mend since it's " Sit & Knit" day and @vanessasmithdesigns Sevrine Cardigan is calling me to work on it more so what's done will have to do. #AradiasHand #AradiaGoseling #mendingmatters #sashikomending #sustainablefashion #sustainableliving #slowliving #slowfashion #visiblemending #sashiko #denimrepair https://www.instagram.com/p/BtRFXBdFBuw/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=po99m2f4wsin

[jixiani]

Counteracting the consumer world

I posted this over on Hobbit Home Companion, but I felt like i should share it here too. 

I have been trying very hard lately to reuse and recycle the things I own, both out of a financial need and a more mindful philosophy. Little backstory: I have started a job where I often have to repair clothing items, I also have a problem with some rather tenacious clothes moths and so nearly everything I own has holes eaten into them. I’ve tried cedar and that didn’t work and don’t want to do mothballs because they’re toxic and my cats have a penchant for eating things so I’ve made dozens of little lavender sachets and stuffed them into every conceivable place to try and discourage the moths, but so far they seem undaunted by it all. Instead of tossing an item and replacing it, only to have it also be eaten, or as I had previously done just ignoring it until the item was unwearable in public, I’ve started patching and repairing them. I stumbled upon Sashiko, or Japanese folk embroidery where they don’t try to seamlessly hide a repair but they highlight and celebrate it by making it beautiful. It’s much the same as they do with Kintsugi (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi) and it’s a part of their culture that I greatly appreciate. I really love the idea of turning a repair into something beautiful and making it into what makes the piece special. I also really love the concept of caring for and keeping an item. We live in a very disposable society. New technology and advancements in production led to lower prices and a wider availability of products but somewhere along the way we lost the pride in ownership and craftsmanship that made people really appreciate their belongings.

There is something really damaging about the consumerism and disposability of today’s world. And yes I could write volumes on craftsmanship and traditional crafts versus modern consumer products, it’s an argument that any artist and craftsperson knows well, but it’s only the tip of a disturbing iceberg. And yes, I’m about to get environmental and that tends to scare people off, they don’t want to hear about how “everything is awful and you’re a bad person because…” so I will try not to get preachy but it is an important point to make because it is so unhealthy to so many parts of our society. We don’t care about where an item comes from, who made it, what conditions they work or live in. We don’t want to pay the higher price for something handmade by a craftsperson. We don’t think about repairing something (unless it’s a much-loved item or there’s no other choice), it’s cheaper and easier to just buy a replacement. We don’t want to think about what happens to our trash after we put it out on the curb, where it eventually ends up, because there is no such thing as “away”. We don’t want to acknowledge that this same mindset bleeds over into other parts of our lives so that people also become as meaningless and replaceable.

Now I am an artist and craftsman, and I am involved in a community of like individuals so I have gotten a lot more exposure to the behind the scenes of making things; but I don’t think that you have to have that background to appreciate the things around you. I also don’t think we have to give up our modern convenience of being able to go to a big box store and purchasing something quick and cheap. I don’t have unlimited funds and while I would love to commission a hand wrought silverware set or hand forged knife set, let’s face it, I have a budget that is much more accommodating to walmart that an artisan. And yes, that’s sad and I wish that artists were valued more and that we could all afford to support them, but I’m also realistic and sometimes you only have $20 and need some knives. That doesn’t mean that we can’t take a few minutes to appreciate the items we choose to bring into our house and share our lives with though.  It’s a small thing, but as we’ve discussed large things are accomplished by a series of small things. I would really like for people to take time to just think about things when they buy things, use things and before they get rid of them. Can it be fixed? Can it be repurposed? Can it be recycled? Can it be given to someone that will find a way to use it?

With anything, whether it be a hand knit pair of socks or a shirt that was sewn in a factory across the world, someone’s time went into making it. Even if something was produced by machine there was a long line of people who contributed to the production of that item. That time, that chunk of someone’s life has value. The moment we stop seeing that, stop seeing the people that make things as people, we lose a bit of ourselves. Even if it’s some kid flipping burgers, that kid has given up a few minutes of their life to feed you. And yes I know that’s very hippy-ish and out there and makes people give you the side-eye, but it’s true. The time we put into an item deserves to be respected and I feel like finding a way to reuse or repair it, in some small way reflects that. So I learn to darn my moth eaten socks, patch my quilts, fix holes in my handbag because I want to honor the life of that item, because I want to save my money, because I don’t want to contribute to overflowing landfills and pollution. Because rampant disposability is a disease and it will only be cured if we work at it.  

[what-inyarnation]

It ain't much but it's honest work 🥲

[sashico]

Boro is not the word for Mending Technique. Sashiko is not the word for Geometric Pattern. “I” personally think Sashiko is not an Art (as of now).  ☆ These statements may surprise you. They may be different from the Sashiko/Boro you already know. However, they are the real voices from Japanese people. ☆ When we listen to “silent voices”, the surprize can go much deeper in culture. I recently met an eldery Japanese who told me that ���Hana-Fukin” is not really Sashiko. My “teachers” told me that stitching on Denim is(was)n’t Sashiko. A scary but respected artisan advised me “only women can” stitch authentic Sashiko (It’s her perspective - not mine). Our artisans didn’t like stitching on “Boro-ish (to-be)” fabric because of many reasons. These voices are not in the majority and not loud for you to listen. Some of them can be quite strong. However, they are all true voices.  ☆ You may think I am conservative & stubborn in Sashiko. In reality, I am more on the flexible side. I think a lot about how I can introduce Sashiko and Boro without distortion & discomfort. Sharing as many stories as possible is my answer & I think it as my mission. Therefore, I tried to write something new every day. However, my mission here may be sharing the same message as many times as possible. I will do both. You may read the same message on this account, but I repeat it because it is so important. ☆ - - - ☆ 「自由で楽しく」という言葉は、とても魅力的です。そりゃ自由がいいし、そりゃ楽しいほうが良いです。でも、自由と楽しさだけでは残らないものもあります。日本国内だったら、たぶん、「耳が痛い事」を言って下さる方はいらっしゃると思うんです。でも英語圏だと、気がつくと、僕しかいないんじゃないかと。「自由」には責任が、「楽しさ」には優しさが必要だと、引き続き伝えていけたらと思います。 ☆ #Sashiko #JapaneseSashiko #CulturalAppropriation #Furoshiki #HandStitching #Unshin #日本の日常 #刺し子 #運針 https://www.instagram.com/p/CHNzznGpxd3/?igshid=1o57oifb8xi73

[sashico]

On top of the Levi’s Denim jeans I worked on with Sashiko stitching, Keiko has been working on the Levis Denim Jacket with Boro-ish mending with Sashiko. The photo is the final version that Keiko had been working until this morning. DAG, @dagforce_y0, will be on the stage today, at the Hida Takayama Jazz festival. ☆ If you are lucky to be there, please take a photo of him wearing Sashiko and share. I have asked him to take some photos, so I hope I can share some here later on. Ah. I wish I could be there to enjoy the music in Hida Folk village. ☆ 今日は飛騨高山ジャズフェスティバル（#hidajazz）！ ☆ 先日米国で刺し子をしたリーバイスデニムに加えて、日本では恵子さんが「襤褸的補修 x リーバイスジャケット」をギリギリまで頑張ってくれました。これで上下の「リーバイス x 刺し子」。本日15:30から @dagforce_y0 が歌います！現地で音楽を素晴らしい環境で楽しめる人が、本当に羨ましい！「刺し子とDAG」の写真を撮影された方は、是非ハッシュタグにてお教え頂けたら嬉しいです。合掌造りの会場で、刺し子とデニムと音楽なんて、最高じゃぁないですか！ ☆ #刺し子 #リーバイス #リーバイスジャパン #Levis #LevisJapan #SashikoDenim #VisibleMending #Sashiko #Boro #JapaneseBoro #MindfulStitching https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx3ldQTp_kf/?igshid=15wth1e80bt7p

[sashico]

Preparing some photos for the workshops in NYC on this Saturday for what “Sashiko” can do. We sometimes receive the feedback that our items are a bit too “Intimidating (probably too much Sashiko?)” as a reference/sample. However, besides the skill of patchworking and tailoring as the Jacket, the core part of the Jacket, “Sashiko” is with very basic stitching. Asanoha, Shippou, and some drawing-ish patterns with vintage fabrics. Since we don’t use any special skill or equipment, we believe anyone can make something similar. Of course, it is up to the tailoring and patchwork skill and sense of “Art” after all. It takes a long time and a lot of work, but it is “possible” for you to make something similar. I hope we can continue sharing some inspiring photos. Again, Sashiko is not about making a perfect ONE stitch. It is about moving the stitches to repurpose (or add value to) the fabric. ☆ 明後日のワークショップで紹介する、「刺し子はここまで応用できる」という写真を準備していて、ふと「あれ？このジャケットの全体像って紹介したっけか？」という疑問になり、いそいで写真を準備致しました。「威圧的で（刺し子が多すぎて？）参考にならない」という言葉を頂くこともあるのですが、仕立てとパッチワークのセンスは別としても、刺し子そのものは大した技術が必要なことはしていません。普���の柄を楽しんで刺し子をするというのがベースにあります。「刺し子を楽しみ続ける」と、こういう作品にもきっと誰でも辿り着けると信じています。勿論、仕立てとパッチワークの技術とセンスは必要ですが（淳の自戒の意味を込めまくってます）。 ☆ #Sashiko #SashikoArt #SashikoJacket #Patchworking #Mending #刺し子 #刺し子の応用 #刺し子ジャケット #パッチワーク https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt4ulg5gKre/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=101ksubya3818

[sashico]

A project without any specific plan… then end up with patching swatches with adhesive thread that I got recently from Japan. No planning project enhance the visual of “Boro-ish” and I kind of think that the Japanese a few hundreds of years ago were no different from today’s project. Just mending for the purpose of mending, with a bit of pride to make it beautiful. ☆ Sashiko is not all about Stitching. Boro isn’t all about “making it beautiful”. They are the byproduct of “ordinary day” like I share on live streams, unedited stitching of SashiCo & Upcycle Stitches. ☆ 今日の配信（の第二部）、いやはや”行き当たりばったり”の完成形みたいなものをお見せしてしまって恐縮です。でも、これで良いと思っています。刺し子と一般的なビジネス的なお話、んでもってちょっとしたスピリチュアルはお伝えできますが、それ以外の裁縫＆仕立ては素人です。これから勉強だと思っているし、まず勉強できるだけの土台（生活）を作らなければとも思っています。根本は楽しむこと。上手な人なんてそこら中にいます。その上で、批判を恐れず、誰とも比べず、卑屈にならず、そして他をできるだけ認めて、楽しさを広めていけたらいいなぁと思っています。第二部、刺し子をほとんどしない刺し子配信になりました。久々に。 ☆ #Sashiko #AdhesiveThread #SashikoThread #Patchwork #Boro #刺し子 #襤褸っぽい #熱接着糸 https://www.instagram.com/p/BthJNfZgfAp/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=al4c8ufm3tnu

[sashico]

Day.1 of Denim for dear friend. ☆ 4 days to accomplish as much Sashiko as possible with some Boro-ish mending. This is a denim jeans for my friends who will have the Live-Concert tour in Japan, starting next weekend. Yes, next weekend. Lol. ☆ About 8 hours, I completed the Shippou pattern on the back and some letters (Logo) on the front. Super focued and so exhasted, yet it was a great experience for me to enlarge my capacity and comfortable zone. The whole process of this denim will be broadcasted and shared on Youtube. Check the channel, “Sashi.Co” and see the real stitching (unedited) and see how “hand-made” it is :D ☆ 実働4日間で、刺し子とデニムは一つのカタチになるのか……。という我ながら無謀な（行き当たりばったり感満載の）企画を行ってます。今日の夕方の段階で、総8時間程。もう納品しても怒られない（笑）程度の展開はしていると思っています。後は前面と、多少の襤褸的な補修を。 ☆ よくよく考えると、「お仕事としての刺し子」には、常に恵子さんだったり職人さんが居たわけで、ガッツリと納期がある仕事は思い返す限り初めてです。焦りも不安もあるのですが、それでも「カタチにしてみたい」と思うからこそ、前に進めるのかなと。来週平日三日間をかけて週末には発送。覚悟決めればやれるもんだなぁと嬉しく思っています。（それ以外の仕事はめっちゃ後回しになってるけどね）。そんなハチャメチャは全てYoutubeにて公開中です。そちらもご覧頂ければ幸いです。 ☆ #Sashiko #DenimRepair #SashikoDenim #SashikoLive #Shippou #刺し子 #七宝 #刺し子デニム https://www.instagram.com/p/Bwu44HkJZS2/?igshid=1w6zslj90rxcc