#serge ruffieux

[designdekko]

EP YAYING in Shanghai, China by Franklin Azzi Architecture

Faithful to his passion for creative encounters and collaborations, Franklin Azzi has united his vision with that of fashion designer Serge Ruffieux to establish a new architectural concept for the Chinese ready-to-wear label EP YAYING.

Reflecting the approach of the iconic label in the revival of luxury goods and Chinese heritage – the name EP YAYING means ‘pledge of quality’ – Franklin Azzi drew from Oriental cultural references and skills to define a new contemporary aesthetic.

The creative tandem has given rise to a program of spaces dedicated to experiencing and strolling, which, from Shanghai to New York, cultivates oxymorons in every detail. The raw beauty of the materials, such as jade and concrete, combines with the elegance of lacquer work and embroidery. Between the association of rough and smooth surfaces, matte and gloss colours, and the traditional mixing of materials of Chinese craftsmanship, the boutiques reveal their singularity in a play of contrasts between stark simplicity and maximalism. The collections of fashion and accessories are displayed around a graphic grid structure of black metal tubes, in which slabs of rough stones of different shapes and colours are suspended or held up, like an interior landscape reinforcing the impression of the poetic antithesis between the different elements.

Also Read | Interior stylist Bhawana Bhatnagar on smart lockers at residential spaces

The architecture of the boutiques, whether within a new building or an existing one, such as the old colonial house entirely renovated in Shanghai, favours transparency, opening to the outside, and integrating nature. The fashion label’s spaces merge with public space in a principle of fluid sophistication.

From floor to ceiling, via the furniture and changing rooms designed as transition and exhibition spaces in dialogue with the overall scheme, an unusual voyage has been designed, composed of aesthetic and sensorial resonances.

It is a means for architects to bring modernity and craftsmanship into dialogue in an original approach that sees each new EP YAYING boutique as a venue in its own right.

Awards:

_Architizer A+ Awards 2022, finalist in the Retail category

_Dezeen Awards 2022, longlisted in the Large Interior Retail category

_Frame Awards 2022, nominee

Technical sheet

PROJECT OWNER

EP Yaying

PROJECT MANAGEMENT 

Franklin Azzi Architecture

Franklin Azzi Design

PROGRAM

Boutiques, flagship, architectural bible

MISSION 

Rehabilitation, artistic direction, interior design, furniture 

SURFACE

Shanghai: 5 600 sq ft

Jiaxing: 22 000 sq ft 

NYC: 3 500 sq ft 

Beijing: 11 600 sq ft

CALENDAR

Shanghai: 2021

Jiaxing: 2021

Architectural bible: 2022

NYC: 2022

Beijing: 2023

LOCATION

China, USA

Architectural bible: opening 300 boutiques internationally 

Read More

[front-row-at-dior]

Yasmin Wijnaldum @ Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2016

[themerveilleuses]

Carven SS18 by Serge Ruffieux

[the-styleinsight-magazine]

カルヴェンとセルジュ・ルフューの新たな一歩。 Serge Ruffieux Takes Over as the New Creative Director of CARVEN

「CARVEN（カルヴェン）」の新クリエイティヴ・ディレクターに、SERGE RUFFIEUX（セルジュ・ルフュー）が就任することが決まった。

1974年生まれのセルジュはジュネーヴ造形芸術大学を卒業後、 「DIOR（ディオール）」にてウィメンズのレディ・トゥ・ウェア、オートクチュールのアトリエでヘッドデザイナーを務め、その後アーティスティック・ ディレクターも兼任するなど幅広く才能を開花させ、また「SONIA RYKIEL（ソニアリキエル）」の右腕として活躍した経験などでも知られている。

今回の就任について、カルヴェン社CEO ソフィー・ドゥ・ルージュモンは、こう語っている。

「セルジュが新しいステージに向けての成長と開発のため全体を見ていきます。そして、セルジュのカルヴェンの新しいクリエイティヴ・ ディレクターの就任を心から歓迎します。彼に備わっているモダンなセンスと申し分のないエキサイティングなクチュールテクニックの融合は、カルヴェンのパリジャンシック、エフォ ートレスエレガンスといった伝説的なヘリテージとまさに共時性を持つのです」。

また、セルジュ・ルフューの言葉も印象的だ。

「カルヴェンでのクリエイティヴ・ディレクターの役割をとてもスリリングに感じています。マダム カルヴェンのファッションへのビジョンにとても親和性を感じて います。カルヴェンの新しい章の幕開けに向かって、クリエイティヴ・ディレクションを牽引することを楽しみに、そしてとても誇らしいことと思っています」。

　　

　　

　

新クリエイティヴ・ディレクターとして白羽の矢が立ったセルジュのファーストコレクションは、2018年リゾートコレクションが初披露となる。

また、2017年10月のパリ・ファッションウィークの公式スケジュールで2018年春夏コレクションを発表予定だ。

「カルヴェン」というブランドにどのような新しい息吹を吹き込むのか、次なるチャレンジに目が離せない。

　　

Text / Kana Takeichi

[studiogl]

EGERIE:Serge Ruffieux ne poursuit pas l’aventure avec Carven

Après l’annonce du rachat de Carven par Icicle Fashion Group, WWD annonce que Serge Ruffieux ne fera pas partie de la nouvelle ère de la marque. Le créateur qui a fait ses preuves en travaillant pour Gérard Darel, Sonia Rykiel et Moschino est arrivé chez Carven en janvier 2017.

Le 12 octobre dernier, Icicle Paris mode, avait été choisie par le tribunal de commerce de Paris pour prendre en main la maison de couture parisienne, Carven. Une reprise pour un montant de 4,2 millions d’euros.

Icicle a déclaré dans un communiqué de presse que, malgré le rachat, Carven restera indépendant en termes de stratégie et de design de la marque. L’entreprise avait également précisé que les 73 employés de la maison de couture seront gardés. Pourtant l’annonce du départ de Serge Ruffieux vient déjà contredire cette déclaration.

Source : https://fashionunited.fr/actualite/people/serge-ruffieux-ne-poursuit-pas-l-aventure-avec-carven/2018101819011

[ilivebytherulesoffashion]

Dior by Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier Fall/Winter 2016

[architectnews]

EP Yaying Store Shanghai, China

EP Yaying Store Shanghai Interior, Chinese Retail Building, Franklin Azzi Serge Ruffieux Architecture Design Photos

EP Yaying Store Shanghai

27 Oct 2021

Design: Franklin Azzi and Serge Ruffieux

Location: Shanghai, People’s Republic of China

Photos @ Matjas Tančič

EP Yaying Shanghai Store Interior

Franklin Azzi’s Latest Project : The Ep Yaying Store In Shanghai

Franklin Azzi‘s Latest Project : The Boutique Of The Chinese Label

EP Yaying In Shanghai.

Franklin Azzi has United His Vision With That Of Creative Director Serge Ruffieux To Establish A New Architectural Concept For Chinese Ready-to-wear Label.

Reflecting the approach of the iconic brand in the revival of luxury goods and Chinese heritage, the two Parisian creatives appropriated oriental cultural references and skills to define a new contemporary aesthetic.

About the EP YAYING project by Franklin Azzi and Serge Ruffieux

Faithful to his passion for creative encounters and collaborations, Franklin Azzi has united his vision with that of creative director Serge Ruffieux to establish a new architectural concept for Chinese ready-to-wear label EP YAYING.

Reflecting the approach of the iconic label in the revival of luxury goods and Chinese heritage – the name EP YAYING means ‘pledge of quality’ – the two Parisian creatives appropriated Oriental cultural references and skills to define a new contemporary aesthetic.

Their creative tandem has given rise to a program of spaces dedicated to experiencing and strolling, which, from Shanghai to New York, cultivates oxymoron in every detail. The raw beauty of the materials, such as jade and concrete, combines with the elegance of lacquer work and embroidery.

Between the association of rough and smooth surfaces, matte and gloss colours, the traditional mixing of materials of Chinese craftsmanship, the boutiques reveal their singularity in a play of contrasts between stark simplicity and maximalism. The collections of fashion and accessories are displayed around a graphic grid structure of gold metal tubes, in which slabs of rough stones of different shapes and colours are suspended or held up, like an interior landscape reinforcing the impression of poetic antithesis between the different elements.

The architecture of the boutiques, whether within a new building or an existing one, such as the old colonial house entirely renovated in Shanghai, favours transparency, opening to the outside, and integrating nature. The fashion label’s spaces merge with public space in a principle of fluid sophistication.

From floor to ceiling, via the furniture and changing rooms designed as transition and exhibition spaces in dialogue with the overall scheme, Franklin Azzi and Serge Ruffieuxhave designed an unusual voyage, composed of aesthetic and sensorial resonances.

A means for architect and fashion designer to bring modernity and craftsmanship into dialogue in an original approach that sees each new EP YAYING boutique as venue in its own right.

About Franklin Azzi

Franklin Azzi and his practice, founded in 2006, develop a transversal approach stimulated by the intertwining of different views and disciplines. In constantly working on architecture, interior architecture, design and contemporary art, he develops a way of designing and building that is applicable to all scales and typologies of space.

From urban micro-architecture such as embodied by the Eiffel Kiosque and its prefabricated structure, to towers in Dubai and Paris, via conversions of existing buildings such as the Alstom market buildings in Nantes, his interventions are based on a quest for sustainability to meet the needs of all users. Far from any formal style, Franklin Azzidevelops architecture that is minimalist in its aesthetic, maximalist in its multi-fold functionality and environmental quality, taking a stand for the return of ‘common sense’.

Franklin Azzi places his commitment as designer–builder at every level of creation, from large scale to the smallest detail of fabrication, whether for public or private commission, in France or elsewhere. In doing so, he breathes new life into built heritage, inventing living and work spaces for tomorrow (The Bureau, Be In for LVMH), rethinks urban development with respect for what is already there (Beaupassage for Emerige) and develops demountable and mobile structures (the rooftop pavilion on Galeries Lafayette). Places that outline a new horizon of possibilities, in an approach that is sustainable and contemporary, to the benefit of the end users.

www.franklinazzi.fr

@franklinazzi

Photographs @ Matjas Tančič

EP Yaying Store Shanghai Design

Presentation of the architectural concept

Faithful to his passion for creative encounters and collaborations, Franklin Azzi has united his vision with that of creative director Serge Ruffieux to establish a new architectural concept for Chinese ready-to-wear label EP YAYING.

Reflecting the approach of the iconic label in the revival of luxury goods and Chinese heritage – the name EP YAYING means ‘pledge of quality’ – the two Parisian creatives appropriated Oriental cultural references and skills to define a new contemporary aesthetic.

Floor 1:

Their creative tandem has given rise to a program of spaces dedicated to experiencing and strolling, which, from Shanghai to New York, cultivates oxymoron in every detail. The raw beauty of the materials, such as jade and concrete, combines with the elegance of lacquer work and embroidery.

Between the association of rough and smooth surfaces, matte and gloss colours, the traditional mixing of materials of Chinese craftsmanship, the boutiques reveal their singularity in a play of contrasts between stark simplicity and maximalism. The collections of fashion and accessories are displayed around a graphic grid structure of gold metal tubes, in which slabs of rough stones of different shapes and colours are suspended or held up, like an interior landscape reinforcing the impression of poetic antithesis between the different elements.

Floor 2:

The architecture of the boutiques, whether within a new building or an existing one, such as the old colonial house entirely renovated in Shanghai, favours transparency, opening to the outside, and integrating nature. The fashion label’s spaces merge with public space in a principle of fluid sophistication.

Floor 3:

From floor to ceiling, via the furniture and changing rooms designed as transition and exhibition spaces in dialogue with the overall scheme, Franklin Azzi and Serge Ruffieux have designed an unusual voyage, composed of aesthetic and sensorial resonances.

A means for architect and fashion designer to bring modernity and craftsmanship into dialogue in an original approach that sees each new EP YAYING boutique as venue in its own right.

Franklin Azzi and Serge Ruffieux, Paris

Joint interview with architect Franklin Azzi and creative director Serge Ruffieux, the creative duo behind the new architectural concept for Chinese ready-to-wear label EP YAYING

Franklin Azzi and Serge Ruffieux, how did you come to work together on the architectural concept for EP YAYING?

Serge Ruffieux : I was working with EP YAYING, which means ‘pledge of quality’ in Chinese, on rethinking the architectural concept of its boutiques worldwide. The company’s founders, who are collectors with a keen eye for art and architecture, wanted to roll out the label internationally. As a creative director, I have always had a taste for design and architecture. For this project I wanted to work in tandem with a strong personality in contemporary architecture. During a trip to Los Angeles, I discovered the boutique that Franklin Azzi had designed for Isabel Marant. The feel of the place made an impression on me. I immediately felt that it had a powerful resonance with my creative approach.

Franklin Azzi : When Serge Ruffieux proposed this collaboration, I immediately felt that it was a fantastic opportunity to continue the dialogue begun with several other figures from the world of fashion, such as Christophe Lemaire, Bali Barret and Isabel Marant. Fashion is a world that has always inspired me. I love the idea of generational creative association, with sampling as the shared culture. I see Serge Ruffieux as part of the new generation of creative directors. Generally speaking, in my work as an architect I cultivate the idea of collaborative creation, fed by different visions and skills. This project was written as a duet. Serge brought his talent as a fashion designer to our architectural skills at the meeting point of creative disciplines.

What are the main ideas that you wanted to express through this new concept of boutiques?

Serge Ruffieux : At the heart of our project is an idea of contrasts and counterpoints. We wanted to create powerful visual and experiential rhythms in the space. Solids and voids combine, colour alternates with whiteness, raw materials such as concrete contrast with the refinement of fabric and embroidery. These choices form constructive oppositions that resonate with the space, bringing it alive and giving it its singularity.

Franklin Azzi : Indeed, according to level or space, we juxtaposed maximalist with minimalist. The cross-fertilisation of these two worlds creates an unusual vision, a sort of duality that characterizes the spaces. We also worked contextually on the spatial sequencing in order to make each boutique a unique venue. In Shanghai, we restored an old house and integrated the garden at the centre of the building so as to create an unusual place, with no defined destination, like an extension to the city’s public space. We consciously distanced ourselves from the traditional idea of the boutique, giving the site a real identity.

What elements of Asian culture did you appropriate for the project?

Serge Ruffieux : We endeavoured to use Chinese materials, techniques and skills, reinterpreting them in our own language of Western designers. So jade is used as a base for displaying accessories. The gloss of lacquer is projected onto matte plaster walls. Traditional embroidery, in which EP YAYING is skillful, decorates the curtains of changing rooms, which can in turn be used as exhibition spaces. We combined our European aesthetic with certain timeless Asian traditions to tease out a new style, suitable for the label’s international roll-out.

You finalised this project during the year 2020 without being able to go to China. Did working remotely change your design process?

Franklin Azzi : Thanks to technical facilities, we were able to complete the project, from Paris, without our vision being altered. We were supported by the quality and rapidity of the Chinese teams, who executed our drawings on site. Over the last 10 years China has undertaken a process of reviving traditional skills. This project is proof of that process.

EP Yaying Store Shanghai, images / information received 261021

Location: Shanghai, People’s Republic of China

New Buildings in Shanghai

Contemporary Shanghai Architecture

Shanghai Architecture Designs – chronological list

Shanghai Building News

Shanghai Architecture Tours by e-architect

Kailong Jiajie Plaza Transformation, Hongkou District Architects: AIM Architecture photo : Dirk Weiblen Kailong Jiajie Plaza Transformation

Harmay Fang Architects: AIM Architecture photograph : Dirk Weiblen Harmay Fang Store in Shanghai

BAN Villa, Jijiadun, near Shanghai, Jiangsu province Architects: B.L.U.E. Architecture Studio photo courtesy of architects office BAN Villa in Jiangsu

Qiantan Center – Emporis Skyscraper Award Design: Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates; Tongji Architectural Design (Group) Co., Ltd. photo © Rex Zou

Shanghai Architect – architectural firm listings on e-architect

Comments / photos for the EP Yaying Store Shanghai by Franklin Azzi and Serge Ruffieux, Paris, page welcome

The post EP Yaying Store Shanghai, China appeared first on e-architect.

[mesillusionssousecstasy]

Le défilé Dior Autumn / Winter 2016-2017. Dior took the same two Swiss designers, Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier, who worked on haute couture, to handle the Winter 2016 collection. The house built yet another grandiose set, this time interspersing giant silver baubles as entrances to a facade mirroring the Louvre. That was the last bold gesture of the show - unless you count filling up the ranks with a possy of celebrities from Jessica Alba in a black jacket, white, collar, gold-trimmed blouse and red trousers - an outfit she described to me as "100 per cent Dior". She was joined by Rosamund Pike, Bond girl Naomie Harris and Riley Keough - best known as Elvis's granddaughter.What stood out in this tunnel of silvered tubes and arches was how tame, if relatively appealing, this collection seemed. It's as hard to define inventive design in fashion as it is in any decorative art. It is never about the crass Zoolander idea of a good show. But there are moments when people who love fashion experience moist eyes and a shiver of excitement. Dior never approached that magic moment today.

[oilsteven80-blog]

Carven appoints Daphné Cousineau as General Manager

Marjorie van Elven

|

Thursday, June 13 2019

Icicle Group has hired Daphné Cousineau for the role of General Manager of Carven, according to WWD. The Chinese group saved the French label from bankruptcy last year, planning to relaunch it. Cousineau is the first big hire after the dismissal of former creative director Serge Ruffieux in November.

“I am delighted to join Carven, this wonderful heritage fashion brand, and to lead its relaunch project”, said Cousineau in a statement sent in exclusivity to WWD. Cousineau is joining Carven from Kering, where she worked as an Executive Committee Member and President for the Balenciaga brand in the EMEA region. Prior to joining Balenciaga, Cousineau held senior management roles at Celine, Valentino and Lanvin.

Source: https://fashionunited.com/news/people/carven-appoints-daphne-cousineau-as-general-manager/2019061328287

[themerveilleuses]

Carven SS18 by Serge Ruffieux

[smartshopperteam]

Carven Said Eyeing Serge Ruffieux

SAVE ON WEDDING & PROM DRESSES at http://ift.tt/23SccX9 Where Smart Shoppers Shop!

A SWISS ACCOUNT?: Does Carven have its eye on Serge Ruffieux? According to market sources, Carven has held talks with the Swiss designer, who rose to prominence in 2016 when he and Lucie Meier jointly held the creative reins of Dior’s women’s collections following the exit of Raf Simons and until the recruitment of his successor, Maria Grazia Chiuri. The likelihood of a deal with Ruffieux could not immediately be learned. But it is understood that Carven is mere weeks away from naming a new artistic director. Ruffieux and Meier, respectively, headed fall and spring ready-to-wear and couture studios under Simons, and then took the design helm between October 2015 and July 2016. Last October, Carven parted ways with the creative duo behind its women’s collections: Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud. An internal team designed the 2017 pre-fall collection. Last July, Carven also parted ways with its men’s wear designer Barnabé Hardy, an alum of Balenciaga, after 18 months. The contemporary label, owned since May 2016 by Bluebell Group, decided to put the men’s line on hold and focus on the women’s collection. Bluebell is a Hong Kong-based, family-owned company that distributes fashion, fragrance, food and home brands throughout Asia. The house of Carven was founded in

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

Be a SMART SHOPPER and shop at http;//http://ift.tt/1q0Qtcq #love, #weddingdress #weddinggown, #groom, #smartshopperteamdotcom, #weddingsuit, #onlineshopping, #bride, #instawed, #bridesmaids, #wedding, #marrage

from Carven Said Eyeing Serge Ruffieux

[yahoonewsdigest-gb-extra]

Classical fuses with punk to kick off Paris menswear shows

Arts

Classical fuses with punk to kick off Paris menswear shows

Subzero temperatures were an apt backdrop for fashionistas who arrived in Paris for the first day of warmly-wrapped fall/winter 2017 menswear fashion shows.The travelling press bid "ciao" to Milan and said "bonjour" to Paris — kicking off 50 fashion shows, endless parties, million-dollar business deals and the last leg of the menswear mania that will sweep the French capital for five days.Powerhouse Valentino unveiled its couture-infused creations from the now-solo designer Pierpaolo Piccioli on Day 1 — and what a show it was.Here are the some highlights of Wednesday's events in Paris:VALENTINO'S NEW BEGINNINGSIt was all about new beginnings as designer Pierpaolo Piccioli flew solo at the Valentino menswear helm for the first time following the departure of co-designer Maria Grazia Chiuri to Dior.The normally-elitist, hierarchical seating was replaced so everyone sat in the front row.

I am thrilled to embrace my new creative role at Carven, feeling a real affinity for Madame Carven and her vision of fashion.

Dior head studio designer Serge Ruffieux

A silken slip with lace detailing jarred beautifully with a bright citrus yellow urban jacket, worn off one shoulder as if in a state of hurried (un)dress.And a billowing tartan cape came in atypical vivid blue that cut a fine look because of the stylish generous lengths of fabric at the front.LEMAIRE'S FUSIONChristophe Lamaire is a master of fusing minimalism and the classic.The former-Hermes designer produced yet another deft, wearable collection with clean lines that riffed on the utilitarian.It was also highly masculine.

[activburn]

Serge Ruffieux dismissed from Carven after Icicle acquisition http://bit.ly/2q1Jva2

Serge Ruffieux dismissed from Carven after Icicle acquisition https://t.co/7ItE3B3Ial

— ACTIVBURN (@activburn) October 19, 2018

from Twitter https://twitter.com/activburn October 19, 2018 at 09:39AM via IFTTT

[modehotcom]

Chanel Couture : Vitesse de croisière direction➡️ @Dior haute couture SS16 de Serge Ruffieux & Luci … https://ift.tt/2u6lAZr

[aimpak]

Carven | Fall Winter 2018/2019 Full Fashion Show | Exclusive

Carven | Fall Winter 2018/2019 by Serge Ruffieux | Full Fashion Show in High Definition. (Widescreen – Exclusive Video/1080p – PFW/Paris Fashion Week) #FFLikedalot

The post Carven | Fall Winter 2018/2019 Full Fashion Show | Exclusive appeared first on Fashion is Fasion.

from Fashion is Fasion http://ift.tt/2GVaPNI

[titoslondon-blog]

New Post has been published on Titos London

#Blog New Post has been published on http://www.titoslondon.co.uk/what-to-expect-from-the-autumnwinter-2018-shows-at-paris-fashion-week/

What to expect from the autumn/winter 2018 shows at Paris Fashion Week

Last September, the fashion world was all aflutter in anticipation of a slew of debut collections by designers for the grandes maisons of Paris. Exciting for some, and nerve-wracking for others, spring/summer 2018 signalled a changing of the guard—one that has now settled in (presumably) to their new positions in the upper echelons of the industry, alongside a crop of talents who have decamped from New York to try their luck in the City of Light. Though some think of fashion like a house of cards, the reality is a little more stable—and at this end of fashion month, labels are keenly investing for long-term gain—pouring new foundations, renovating, upscaling and toying with a ‘sea change’ in the fashion real estate game.

New foundations

French wunderkind Simon Porte Jacquemus kicks off the show season in Paris with his Monday night slot, the only show on a day when buyers, editors and the rest of the fashion pack are still transiting from Milan. On Wednesday, he unveiled via Instagram that his autumn/winter 2018 show ‘Le Souk’ (no prizes to whoever guesses that inspiration) will take place at the Petit Palais which, like last season’s Musée Picasso affair, is a serious step-up from his early show locations, which included a local swimming pool and games arcade. His hash-tagging of #newjob has fashion folk gossiping as to what he’ll unveil the day of the show, but with rumours of the Céline position clearly misplaced, the jury’s out on this one. Could he have been chosen to revive a slumbering fashion house, perhaps?

With Hedi Slimane’s appointment at Céline, Phoebe Philo’s coveted Sunday afternoon spot on the PFW calendar was up for grabs, as the house reshuffles for Slimane’s first show in October. Instead, Belgian entrepreneur Anne Chapelle (business partner to both Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann) seized the time slot for Poiret—the century-old French maison she has revived (thanks to financial backing from Samsung heiress Chung Yoo-Kyung) with Chinese couturier, Yiqing Yin at the creative helm.

Another newcomer on the schedule is the 2017 LVMH Prize winner Marine Serre. Since quitting her day job at Balenciaga to go solo, her printed body stockings and flouncy, voluminous gowns have been snapped up by the likes of Dover Street Market and Opening Ceremony. Serre will open the first full day of shows on Tuesday morning before big-ticket blockbusters: Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri in the gardens of the Musée Rodin and—just hours later—Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent.

Restoration and renovations

Autumn/winter 2018 is the season of the sophomore, as a trio of designers will each present their second collection at a Parisian house. First up is Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé, who will be moving her second show to an as-of-yet undisclosed location after last season’s exclusive outing (60 per cent less seats!) inside the new, contemporary art-filled Maison Chloé. Later that day, Dior alumni Serge Ruffieux’s pretty, bohemian new vision for Carven will play out at a middle school in the 15th arrondissement, whilst Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy show returns to the Palais de Justice on Sunday morning. After mixed reports of her first women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections last September, Waight Keller made a splash at her first-ever haute couture show in January, leaving the ball in her court for a strong follow-up for the house that Hubert built.

The transatlantic ‘seachange’

Not only have designers been switching houses, but labels have been exploring the geographic limitations of when and where they show their collections. Despite their studios remaining in New York City, a handful of designers have decamped to join the Paris schedule, just as others (like Bottega Veneta and Esteban Cortazar) have been trying their luck with one-time-only fashion shows in the Big Apple. Following buzzy debuts in Paris last October, Thom Browne and Joseph Altuzarra will show once again on the official calendar this week. Also of note, Demna Gvasalia will show both menswear and womenswear at his Sunday show for the very first time.

Off-schedule mini breaks

Runway shows aside, Paris Fashion Week will play host to hundreds of presentations, cocktails, dinners and after-parties that cater to a broad cross-section of the fashion community. Highlights will include the semi-finals of the fifth 2018 LVMH Prize, a competition presided over by a prestigious jury including Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann, Karl Lagerfeld, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Jonathan Anderson. The 21 finalists (which this year include Eckhaus Latta, GmbH, Matthew Adams Dolan and Charles Jeffrey) will be whittled down to eight, with the winner announced in June. Finally, and for those seeking the veritable holy grail of fashion inspiration, the exhibition “Margiela Galliera” opens at the Palais Galliera museum on March 3, its last show before closing mid-July for renovations and the establishment of a permanent collection. The Margiela exhibition—curated by Alexandre Samson and instigated by outgoing director Olivier Saillard—includes more than 130 silhouettes by the seminal Belgian designer, and word has it his personal implication in the project has been considerable.

1/10 Jacquemus, spring/summer 2018

Image: Getty

Chloé, spring/summer 2018

Image: Getty

Givenchy, spring/summer 2018

Image: Getty

Carven, spring/summer 2018

Image: Getty

Thom Browne, spring/summer 2018

Image: Getty

Altuzarra, spring/summer 2018

Image: Getty

Beautiful People, spring/summer 2018

Image: Shoji Fujii

Marine Serre, spring/summer 2018

Image: Tanguy Poujol

The wife of the Parisian fashion designer Paul Poiret wearing a dress designed by her husband for 1919

Image: Getty

Martin Margiela, wigs and hairpieces jacket, autumn/winter 2009

Image: Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet

The post What to expect from the autumn/winter 2018 shows at Paris Fashion Week appeared first on VOGUE India.