One of my many, many interests is bobbin lace. Another is the 18th century (as the setting of early capitalism, fashion, interesting stories about forged pineapples, etc.) Here they are combined as I’m making a copy of tulle lace from Rauma, which while documented in the 19th century, would have been appropriate and fashionable in the 18th century.
The Swedish (Finland was a part of Sweden at that time) sumptuary laws, which were on and off all the time due to class divisions and protectionist market policies, regularly allowed for only 2,5 cm / 1 inch wide lace for clothing, and surprise surprise, this mynster (pattern) is exactly 2,5 cm wide.
I started making this yesterday, and the visible part here (that’s not under the rows of 0,5 mm steel needles) took me about two hours as I walked it through with notes and a guide graph. The wider thread that’s running between the normal pairs is called a cordonnet, or a gimp, it’s a passive thread that runs through the lace, held in place by the twisting threads around it. The pattern has a little heart shape in the middle!
The finest bobbin laces of the 18th century were made in France in Chantilly, and there were some excellent alternatives around Germany and Holland at the time, but I’m interested in Finnish history in particular.
This lace will continue to be made for as long as I can make it. It might end up as a gift to my friend who works in a museum, for their re-enactment costume. Or I might make 20 metres of it and sew it up on my prospective fantasy yet-to-become-true someday robe à la française dress. Who can tell! The night is young!
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Mirror Palais "laces and silks" collection
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Wedding Dress of Lollaretta Pemberton Allen
Pictured with her groom, Grover Allen
1939
National Museum of African American History & Culture
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Art Nouveau Fashion Gowns in tulle and pink silk velvet from The Alexandre Vassiliev Foundation, circa 1910-1915
The layering of fabrics and textures is typical of ca. 1910 fashion. Delicate, sheer tulle mutes the lush cyclamen pink silk velvet. The circular and floral lace applied to the tulle appears to be an earlier 19th century lace – possibly from the 1860s. The final layer of lace is a lush metallic lace, which adds visual weight to the hem and borders, and carries out the progression of textures from light to heavy. (x)
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Round Neck Blue Lace Long Prom Dresses, Blue Lace Formal Dresses, Long Blue Evening Dresses SP2698
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