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Rainy evenings by the veranda Kampung Sapit '16 #ewb #bidayuh #malaysia #trstls (at Sarawak)

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"It was not until 2009 that Lakhbir received full Malaysian citizenship: a 45-year wait dotted with numerous applications – most of which were rejected without reason. His parents moved to Kuala Lumpur in the early ‘60s and he grew up in a village on the peripherals of the city. Taught how to tend to livestock as a child, he was exposed to the rigours of hard labour at a young age in order to help support his family." Early this year, I photographed and wrote a piece about three Malaysians and their work. We spoke about big shifts, everyday struggles and the pursuit of happiness. My biggest takeaway: stick to what's essential. Home, Malaysia '16 | Full story in bio link | #work #family #essentials #penang #kl #malaysia #trstls #atavist (at Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)

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Introducing Isaac, budding horn player for the Salvation Army (SA) Brass Band in Penang - working hard to get his C Major on point. Every Thursday evening, a dedicated group of primary/high school boys from the SA Children's Home get together to practice music, learning tunes of Christmas cheer and solemn hymns for the year. Most of them began with little to no knowledge of music theory but with plenty of song books and decades-old cheat sheets, are slowly beginning to sound like a formidable brass outfit. Penang '16 #bandsmen #brasslife #conductornotes #music #togetherness #trstls (at Penang, Malaysia)

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From the fields of gold: Ibu, all smiles in the early morning sun as she finally gets an opportunity to dry her family's harvested rice grains - following three days of relentless downpour. Once properly dried, the golden-brown produce is then hulled and milled before being stored in gunny sacks; providing her family sustenance for the rest of the year. Ulu Padawan '16 #providence #everyday #bumi #kehidupan #sarawak #malaysia #trstls (at Sarawak)

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18 years ago, Nurul stepped onto Malaysian shores with hopes of a better life for both his family and himself. Today, he supervises a team of eight other countrymen as they groom the grassy slopes of the Teluk Bahang Dam, the island's largest man-made reservoir. It takes them a full week of 8-hour shifts to finish the job.

He readily shared stories of gratitude - for friends made along the way, bosses who have cared for and taught him, lessons he's learnt and even all the good food he's blessed with. Plenty was said about unsavoury brushes with policemen too, but he seems to take it all into stride - with a broad, disarming grin.

Thank you Nurul, for doing the work that you do and for so graciously offering this stranger a priceless insight into your everyday life.

Penang '16

https://www.instagram.com/sengchonglim/

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Malaysian author Uthaya Sankar, on water and religion - "If we look at it from the angle of religion, we use water to cleanse ourselves. It is always a positive element, regardless of race or religion. We see water as the matter we use to help us get rid of something dirty or negative - and so I would look at it from a positive angle. Whichever religion you are from, it is the same thing. And because water bears no one form, it can adapt to any situation. We too can learn to adapt, to understand and to tolerate - in the Malaysian context, it is something we can all take from. Just as it flows, it cleanses us, gives us new meaning, and refreshes us - why not take it as an example to make our lives better?" --- [An excerpt from "Water & Religious Rituals in Contemporary Malaysia", a mini-documentary that @munirafm and I filmed across Peninsular Malaysia, from visits to three unique places of worship. The culmination of a 3-year journey that we hope to soon share with you] --- #water #air #social #SETA #SASS #documentary #monash #religion #wudhu #pooja #baptism #oneness #srilanka #penang #malaysia #SEA #trstls

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Where working in underwear is just practical: the lean, sun-glazed fishermen of Teluk Bahang jetty are up before sunrise in preparation for the next push out to sea - a rigorous, treacherous affair that yields bountifully. - Taken from a walk earlier this morn, under a cloudless sky that matched up to the bright blue vessels, Penang '16 #telukbahang #fishery #economy #life #practicality #everyday #penang #malaysia #SEA #trstls

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Colombo to Ella: A Sri Lankan Rail Tale

From bright red carriages to the lush greenery of the hills, the click-clacking of the train’s wheels to the piercing note of its horn, and from the warmth of the city to the invigorating coolness of higher ground - travelling Sri Lanka’s underrated railways into the hill country is an experience one should not let slip. 

Feeling somewhat lost in a crowded sea of people that was the Fort Railway Station with my Exporail ticket to Ella in-hand, I boarded a crowded train with anticipation fuelled by the good things many had said about the hill country. Warm smiles greeted me as I stepped into the carriage and was led by the crew into a spacious cabin that was air conditioned, lined with luxurious-looking seats and graced by two LCD TVs. The cushioned seats were fit for maharajas – they had ample leg space, a foldable table for meals and a plug point for passengers to recharge devices. These are luxuries for any traveller on rail, especially in a 9-hour haul from Colombo to Ella. The train pushed ahead on time, gathering speed through the heat and bustle of Colombo with a pleasant welcome message looping on the TVs.

There were a few Chinese businessmen onboard, a sight reflective of growing diplomatic and economic ties between Sri Lanka and the Asian superpower. This group, I later found out, were the commissioned builders of the railway network’s expansion plans. Against an increasingly green and untouched landscape of sweeping paddy fields, and the occasional jam-packed road crossings, a light breakfast was served – fresh and appetising pastry rounded up with a cup of coffee. The folding table deserves special mention: it was far from ornamental and held the meal with little to no mess. Service by the cabin crew was polished, hospitable and there was an air of comfort among the passengers. Unlike the network’s government-run trains, Exporail is a privately owned company that prides itself on luxurious comfort, drawing well-to-do tourists and working professionals.

A glimpse of everyday life

Almost two hours later at the Ambepussa Station, I witnessed for the first time an exchange of train engines in the middle of a journey. Having swiftly communicated with the train captain, the cabin crew informed the passengers of the delay – most of whom had gathered at the front of the carriage and down on the railway track for a smoke and to take photographs of the station. Speaking to the crew, I learnt that the engine had to be substituted because the current one lacked climbing capacity. Many of the network’s trains, although well-maintained, have been in commission for decades. The situation though was far from one of anxiety and worry – it was dealt with in an almost rehearsed, docile manner. The bald imposing silhouette of the station master, as he stood commandingly in a starched-white uniform with gleaming black shoes overlooking progress against the mid-day sun painted a telling picture, replete with the essence of everyday life on the railway. The station’s Colonial-British architecture served a picture-perfect backdrop for the scene, with an overhead bridge just metres away marking the spot to take it all in.

 A heated pack of chicken briyani and a bottle of water was served with a reassuring smile by the crew for lunch in good time. The size of the serving was just as satisfying as it tasted, rich with the local flavour and considerately spicy, well in tune with Sri Lanka’s staple dish, that is rice and curry. By then, Colombo already felt like a distant past as the train continued its steady ascend into the hills. Marked by a sweeping view of evergreen tea plantations and the occasional white fortresses of tea factories, the coolness of the hill country beckoned with warm hellos. A century and a half ago, this breathtaking landscape drove one of the worlds largest coffee exports, but the British turned to tea following a devastating leaf plague. And so it comes as little surprise that it was for tea and coffee that the colonial rulers built a railway network that stretched deep into the “up country”, as the locals call it.

A cinematic orchestra

I was gently interrupted by the cabin crew at one point as I stood marvelling at the lush greenery from the observation area and was informed of an upcoming waterfall on the other side of the train. Saint Clair’s Fall was a sight to behold as it came into view, flowing with reverent grace at the heart of a breathtaking panorama. Not long after, I was notified by the crew as the train clacked past the Upper Kothmale Dam, a water source crucial for the surrounding land yet debated over its impact on the natural ecosystem. Admittedly, it stood out like a sore thumb in what was otherwise an serene terrain. A heavy drizzle that began shortly before did little to repel the eager passengers as they posed and smiled for self-portraits with the hills in the observation area. I recall a moment gazing out into a vast, fading image of the hill country that stretched out into the misty horizon - the clouds were coloured a warm, crimson red by the setting sun. It was truly a humbling sight to behold.  

The train climbed slowly but surely up the hill country and the drizzle subsided as nightfall started to creep in. Having just woken from a restful nap, the fresh coolness of the observatory area served a tempting proposition but I was hit by an unexpected cold upon stepping out - in the hour or two or passed, the temperature had dropped considerably. Again, I was warmly informed by the cabin crew of the rapid climate change that takes place during the ascend and well-prepared for the passing of a wooden signage that marks the highest point of Sri Lanka’s railway network, at 1909 metres above sea level.

By nightfall and with Ella on fast approach – after multiple visits to the carriage’s washroom, a blockbuster movie, plenty of reading and an added layer of clothing, I found myself seated alone in the observatory with the wind’s brisk cold caressing my face as I trained my sight on the focus of the train’s headlights cut through the imposing woods. With the other passengers asleep by then, I had the privilege of conversing freely with the ever-present cabin crew, over sweet Kandyan pastry. A perfect icing to the cake for what turned out to be an incredible, wholesome journey of the senses. I arrived at Ella in good time and high spirits, bidding the crew an enthusiastic goodbye and a quiet hello to the charming town.

More photographs from the journey can be found here - http://sengchonglim.tumblr.com

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Not quite (off the wall): Vietnam, in film

Glimpses through a window into the everyday life of a socialist state, through the eyes of a tourist who: cycled the streets of Da Nang and strolled the coastal city's idyllic stretch of white sand, sipped on tasty local brew and stood in historical awe of the charming ancient port city Hoi An and finally - woke up in a junk surrounded by a thousand striking limestone islands in Ha Long Bay, a four-hour drive away from hectic Hanoi.

In series here - http://sengchonglim.tumblr.com

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Pay per play: A photo essay

Elaborate, franchised and dear theme parks aside - traveling carnivals, although small in presence and number, offer just as much (if not more) joy and laughter. Often situated close to dense residential areas, these amusement parks usually stay a month before teardown begins for the next town. From pirate ships to Ferris wheels, every ride is collapsible and travels in custom-built intermodal containers. Smaller attractions such as the carnival games where prizes can be won, operate right out of colourfully painted containers.

As rickety as some rides may appear (given constant reassembly), the array of enchanting lights and over-amplified pop music still brings glitter to the eyes of both young and old. From the toddler-pleasing carousel to the nauseating looping-pendulum ride, it’s everyone’s joint for a good night out.

Bayan Lepas, Penang ‘15

[ More from the photo series here ]

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On assignment: Kampung Sapit of Ulu Padawan

In the spirit of 'gotong-royong', or mutual assistance, everyone plays an active role in the growth and development of the village. There is an unspoken norm when an occasion calls for gathered manpower: Every household sends at least one representative to help out. Having spent over a week on-site with the villagers as they toiled to complete their very first source of renewable power, I learnt that this spirit of togetherness is deeply embedded not just within the parameters of a worksite, but lives in them as a way of life.

Here, three villagers remove debris from the river to ease water flow through the dam. 

Sarawak, '15

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Out In The Thar: A Rajasthani Love Affair

Characterised by bitter-cold temperatures at night and searing heat by day, the desert holds a remarkable beauty; unscathed by urban development and calming in presence. The sand is silken to the touch and its golden-brown expanse stretches out in an awe-inspiring panorama, exuding a silent charm that betrays the spatial sense. 

The sprawling state of Rajasthan, nestled in northern India, is a land abundant in cultural heritage and history. Established in 1956 during the British colonial rule, the state is today home to a predominantly Rajasthani, Hindi-speaking population of approximately 70 million people. Its history dates back to the days of the Indus Valley Civilisation, the world’s first, and the passing of time has witnessed the rise and fall of the Mughals, Gurjars, Maratha and Rajput empires - perhaps it is for this very reason that the name Rajasthan translates to the “Land of Kings”. Cities such as Jodhpur, Udaipur, Jaipur and Jaisalmer are world-renowned for their fortresses, palaces and temples; a testament to the region’s prosperous heritage. Geographically, the state is largely composed of the Thar Desert – a vast, arid and largely flat region that spans over the India-Pakistan border. It is the most densely populated desert in the world, and is home to about 40% of Rajasthan’s population.

Rolling into the deep

With a loosely-strung itinerary, I spent three weeks in Rajasthan, journeying across its cities by rail and road. It was in the city of Jaisalmer, however, that I had a brush with the quintessential Rajasthani experience: a window into life on the fabled Thar Desert, by way of a two-day camel safari.

Situated about 40 kilometres off the city of Jaisalmer, the Sam Dunes is connected by a narrow highway that snakes through the seemingly endless desert plain, dotted by stunted shrubs and clusters of villages that visually resonated with the barren landscape. As I cruised towards the dunes, wedged in the front seat of a local jeep between three other men, it became evident that the highway is even shared with local livestock – we were forced to slow down more than once to accommodate herds of cows and goats who strolled along unfettered, taking up an entire lane for themselves.

Not long after the jeep ground to a halt on the peripheral of the Sam Dunes, I was greeted by a young boy, smiling broadly with his camel in tow. This marked the start of the safari: An hour-long walk into the deep-end of the desert. Apart from the chatter and gaily crooning of Kamdin my camel walker, there was little to no sign of life. Here, amidst the ever-shifting mounds of sand, the extremities of the elements have rendered the desert almost uninhabitable.

A harsh, beautiful reality

Upon arrival at the campsite, a fire was started for the brewing of chai and preparation for dinner. The campsite was an enclosure made out of tree branches and twigs – it held enough dry rations, necessary cooking utensils, and blankets for the cold. A well was built close by to ensure there was no shortage of water for visitors. While Kamdin busied himself with preparing dinner, I ventured into the great wide open – the sun was quickly setting, and a slight breeze lingered, drawing ripples around my feet. The sunset was unlike any I had seen – an incredibly large blob of crimson red suspended over the landscape, appearing almost within arm’s reach. It painted the sky with fiery hues of orange, before finally fading into the horizon.

A night divine, by nature’s design

As night dawned, along with Kamdin and two other camel walkers, we dined heartily, storied each other and sang freely over the crackling fire. I was given an insight into the life and culture of the Rajasthani village folk - a people very in tune with their land’s history, and who strive to preserve it through art and in their living. I had the pleasure of listening to a few folk songs, ballads of which I was told to be stories of love, tragedy and the celebration of everyday struggles. Wrapped in generous layers of blankets and accompanied by a soundtrack of bleating goats nearby, I fell asleep in the open desert, under a cloudless sky bestrewed with countless stars.

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Thaipusam 

A celebration of good over evil, Thaipusam is a three-day religious festival held in honour of Lord Murugan, an important deity in Hinduism. The festival stands as the paramount religious festival of Hindus in Malaysia, as devotees flock by the hundreds of thousands towards Batu Caves; a massif north of Kuala Lumpur, to offer praise and worship to Lord Murugan as a fulfilment of their vows, made most often in times of hardship.

Most rituals bound to the festival begin before the occasion itself - some devotees begin fasting a month before, while others shave their heads an act of gratitude, repentance and as a plea for unanswered prayers.

The celebration of Lord Murugan begins on the eve of Thaipusam in a chariot procession, accompanied by devotees bearing offerings to the deity. Milk, a symbol of purity and virtue, is carried by thousands in ritualised milk pots known as paal kudam. Particularly arresting is the sight of kavadi bearers, in a burden ritual that requires the piercing of the skin with hooks and miniature spears, replica of the vel - either on the back, cheeks or mouth. Most kavadi bearers feel no pain and shed little to no blood, attributing this to Lord Murugan’s protection. Coconuts are also smashed along the temple-bound procession’s route, symbolising the breaking of ego and birth of a truer self.

Beyond the colours and boisterous beats, Thaipusam is a riveting display of spirituality, devotion and humility.

Kuala Lumpur, Feb ‘15

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I shared a few moments with this lady and her child on my way out of the famed Jaisalmer Fort, an impressive Rajput-era fortification of The Golden City.

We got talking about where I came from and I later learned that she had a brother working in Malaysia. She was delighted; perhaps it was almost akin to receiving a phone call from him, saying hello to everyone at home. She would not let me leave without insisting I take home a gem-encrusted silver bracelet that was on-sale, as a gift.

A soft, moment of kindness, etched into memory effortlessly

Rajasthan, India / Feb '14

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At Ragasthan, an art festival that sprang to life somewhere in the Khuri Dunes, about 40 kilometres off the city of Jaisalmer. Four unforgettable days that saw a coming together of music, film, a free-flow of chai and new acquaintances.

Rajasthan, India / Feb '14

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Completed in 1986, the 65-storey-high KOMTAR tower is an enduring structural icon of the state. During its heyday, it was the second-tallest building in Asia and stood as Malaysia's tallest, for three years.

Gleaming in the sun by day and nobly lit up by night, the tower completes a welcoming landscape that is the island of Penang.

Home, Feb '15

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Thought of by most as a nuisance to society, the 'Mat Rempits' are a community of bikers who crave the raw torque of a stripped-down machine and care little for speed limits. They hit the quiet highways late, line the edge of the asphalt by the hundreds and rev off into the night.

Klang-cruising / Selangor, Malaysia / Jan '15