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spidergwenstefani · 6 years

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Take Another Shot

@aw-hawkeye-no you did this to me. This was a single ship blog and then you did THIS to me.

anyways here’s a 5 +1 Castlehawk fic. 5 times Frank proposes to Clint and 1 time Clint says yes.

California’s not usually Frank’s scene. There’s too many gleaming white smiles plastered onto plastic faces. He prefers the east coast where everyone’s depressed and honest about it.

“You gonna keep checking your guns until these terrorists just give up and go home, or are we ready to go?” Clint flashes him a bright smile, although it’s a shade too genuine for Frank to really resent it.

“I like to be prepared. Just one of my rules,” he says, finally sliding his Glock back into place and giving Clint a short nod. “We all got rules, right? Helps us do what we do.”

“Yeah, okay,” Clint says, suddenly mock serious. He shoulders his bow to take Frank’s face between his hands, archery gloves pressing hard enough to smush his cheeks together. “My rule is no falling in love, got it? I know I make it hard, but I got no time for romance. I have a tight schedule of kicking ass and taking names to stick to.” He gives Frank’s head a little shake as if he’s gotta rattle some sense loose. As if Frank’s the type to go and fall for someone that easy. It’s classic Clint Barton humor. The kind of jokes that you have to keep reminding yourself to hate. The kind of funny that rubs you the wrong way until you blink and it doesn’t. Greater men than Frank have fallen to the charms of Clint Barton, but Frank’s specialty is putting up walls, so he counts himself safe.

“Agreed.”

“Great.” Clint’s smile is slow and mischievous. “Then let’s go catch some terrorists.”

“You know how much cooler you would sound if you said ‘Let’s go kill some terrorists?’” Frank says, but he follows Clint down the dark hallway anyways. He doesn’t look back, just sparing a half-assed handwave over his shoulder.

“There’s nothing cool about murder, Castle. That’s my other rule.”

>>==========>

There’s gunfire all around him, pinging off of exposed metal and concrete and generally raining down hell. Frank sinks his knife through flesh and his fourth guy goes down with a scream, clutching at his shoulder. Frank takes a second to tell himself that wasn’t quite murder while he kicks another guy hard enough to feel bone snap under his boot. If he gets medical help in the next few hours he’ll be alright. If he doesn’t, that’s someone else’s problem.

He pulls his Glock out of its holster to put a few rounds into goon number six, and wonders about Clint’s stance on permanently maiming. He’s not just gonna leave terrorists with perfectly good hands lying around during a firefight, ready to drag themselves over to a discarded weapon and take his team out from the sidelines.

Frank hears the seventh guy coming up behind him almost too late. Almost not enough time to sidestep the swipe of his knife, grab him by the arm, and wrench his shoulder out of his socket. Almost. The guy goes down like a screaming pile of bricks, and Frank can tell by the shouts behind him that Clint’s preoccupied, so he shoots him maybe a little closer to some essential organs than is strictly nonlethal. Whatever. There’s bullets flying around the place like confetti. The guy could’ve got hit by friendly fire. Frank’s got plausible deniability.

He turns toward Clint then, finger already tightening on the trigger, but freezes as soon as he takes in the scene.

There’s six guys already on the floor and only one of them is still moving enough to try and pull an arrow free from his thigh. Four more are swarming Clint and he takes down two in a motion so smooth Frank actually can’t tell if he drew a breath or not. He nocks two arrows and takes the other two out in one shot. Frank must’ve made some kinda noise because Clint spares him a glance, shooting him a blinding smile and fuck Frank and his walls because that’s an armor piercing round right there.

“Marry me,” he chokes out, realizing he’s standing there gaping like an idiot in the middle of a firefight and not quite caring. Clint’s face does a funny little show, going from surprised to disappointed to an eye roll in moments. He settles on scrunching up his nose just a bit, shooting another goon without looking so he can fix Frank with a critical stare.

“No. Jesus, Castle. We talked about this.”

“I changed my mind,” Frank says. A spray of bullets gets annoyingly close to his face, so he lobs a knife at the source. “C’mon. Right after this. You, me, city hall.”

“I told you, my schedule’s booked.” One of the last few guys tries for a kamikaze charge at Clint, and Frank hasn’t even taken aim before there’s an arrow sprouting from his chest.

“We could do it now,” Frank tries. “I bet one of these guys is ordained.”

“Yeah,” Clint says, turning back to finish off the last few with laser focus. “I hear that’s the number one fallback plan for ministers. Terrorists, all of ‘em.” The last goon goes down and Clint steps back to survey the damage. “Alright, Castle. How many of these guys did you kill?”

“Uh,” Frank says. The floor is slick with blood, and he offers Clint an apologetic shrug. “I guess we’ll have to wait and see.”

Frank’s boots thud against tile as he races down the hallway after Clint, ducking as bullets and goddamn lasers go flying past.

“Remind me why I agreed to help you with Avengers business again?”

“Because you like watching my ass while we run for our lives?” Clint tries, taking a sharp right and not bothering to check if Frank follows. He does. He’s not letting that ass out of his sight. “Because deep down you’re a good person?”

“It was the first one,” Frank grunts. Another laser blast goes past, mere centimeters from his face. Goddamn lasers. They leave the air behind them crackling in a way bullets never do. It’s putting him on edge.

“Backup should be here soon,” Clint says as he skids around another corner. “Then we won’t have to keep retreating.”

“If you hadn’t lost your bow, we wouldn’t have had to run in the first place.” Frank swears they should be going in circles by now. Fucking AIM bases. Fucking AIM bases and their goddamn lasers and Clint. Motherfucking. Barton.

“Not my fault,” Clint shouts, diving out of the way of a laser that somehow ricochets off the wall. “Dunno how I was supposed to know a putty arrow would react with a vat of acid like that. And I took down half the base, didn’t I?”

“Stealth mission,” Frank grunts. Their next turn is even tighter, and he hits the wall with his shoulder before bouncing back. The AIM agents are falling further and further behind, their shots getting sloppier, but they’re still too close to lose in their labyrinth of a base and Frank and Clint can’t keep this up forever. “You said this was a stealth mission.” The hallway they’ve turned down is slightly wider than the others, and Clint falls back slightly to run at Frank’s side.

“Carry me,” he says, and Frank glares at him. Clint’s panting and his face is flushed, but he’s a far cry from out of breath.

“I always fucking carry you,” Frank says, but he scoops Clint up anyways, somehow wrangling him into a bridal carry without falling ass over teakettle.

“Rude,” Clint says, immediately squirming out of Frank’s grip and throwing himself over his shoulder into a fireman’s carry. “We’ve worked together like twice.”

“And yet,” Frank says, not bothering to finish his sentence. He’s going slower now under Clint’s weight. They have a decent head start on the AIM agents, but whatever Clint’s trying to do better get done soon. He feels Clint fumble with the holsters on his back, and then he’s drawing out the rifle Frank keeps strapped to him.

“Keep running,” Clint says, like Frank’s about to stop.

“Start shooting,” he gripes back. He feels Clint go still, digging his elbow into Frank’s shoulder to steady himself. The sound of bullets and lasers gets closer, and Frank can practically feel the shrapnel nipping at his heels.

There’s one shot, then four more in quick succession. Clint pauses to take a deep breath, and then five more shots ring out. He hears a strangled shout of pain, and then they’re not under fire anymore.

“Woah there, Castle,” Clint says, giving Frank a pat on the ass like he’s some kinda horse. He skids to a stop too fast just to be an asshole, and Clint goes tumbling over his shoulder.

“Don’t ever make me do Avengers shit again,” Frank says, bending over to catch his breath. Clint just beams up at him from the floor, practically hugging Frank’s sniper rifle. His chest is rising and falling like he’s just run a marathon, and his cheeks are flushed bright red.

“That was hot though, right?” Clint says. “I feel like that looked totally hot.” Frank’s too busy clutching at the stitch in his side to agree. Clint closes his eyes, letting go of Frank’s rifle to let his arms flop out at his sides. “You think you could do the princess carry again? That was definitely hot.”

“I’m saving it for the honeymoon. You gotta say ‘I do’ before I bust that move out again,” Frank says, and Clint opens his eyes just so he can roll them.

“Nuh uh. Figures. I always end up going for the good Catholic boys.”

“Really?” Frank knocks the toe of his boot against Clint’s shoulder and he snickers.

“No.”

There’s a dog barking somewhere in a far off alley. Police sirens are blaring, but they’re always blaring in Brooklyn. Frank’s boots skid against wet asphalt as he stumbles, falling back into the shadows and clutching at the wound in his side. He’s lost a fair amount of blood. He can’t tell exactly how deep the wound is in the dark like this, but he can tell it’s more than a scratch. He’s walked away from worse, but Frank’s not stupid enough to think this isn’t bad.

He grits his teeth and stumbles again, careening into a trash can that falls over with an ear-splitting crash. Somewhere out there, the dog starts barking louder.

“Fuck,” Frank spits out, letting his head fall against cool brick. He’s not sure exactly what part of Brooklyn he’s even in. He lost Kingpin’s men a while back, but that doesn’t mean he’s going to risk being seen while he looks for some kind of street sign.

The brick of the brownstone Frank’s collapsed against is kind of soothing. The cold against his face edges into his brain slowly and makes a nice contrast to the pain pulsing in his side. He lets his boots skid out from under him, sliding down to sit in the shadows. All things considered, Brooklyn isn’t the worst place to die. Frank lets his eyes slide shut and listens to the barking dog draw closer.

>>==========>

There’s a wet tongue slobbering all over Frank’s face, and the smell of dog breath pulls him back into reality. He groans, lifting his hand to bat the dog’s face away, but somebody’s already pulling his snout back, scolding him gently. Frank cracks his eyes open to see a familiar face, blond hair as unkempt as usual and blue eyes darkened with worry.

“Clint?”

“Jesus, Frank. Warn a guy before you show up in his neighborhood with a stab wound, alright?”

“Didn’t mean to end up in your neighborhood,” Frank says, and Clint’s face shifts just a little, a cloud of hurt falling over all the worry.

“Okay. Yeah, that’s- that’s kind of worse. You just planned on bleeding out in a back alley without giving me a heads up?”

“I thought you were in California.” Frank’s mouth feels like sandpaper. He pulls himself up enough to take in his surroundings and realizes he’s in a bedroom. He’s in Clint’s bed.

“I’ve been in town for about a week,” Clint says. He passes Frank a glass of water that was waiting on the side table. Frank takes it gratefully, almost draining the cup before he speaks again.

“You didn’t call.”

“Neither did you,” Clint says. He finally lets go of the dog he’s been holding back by the collar. A one-eyed mutt that seems to blend in seamlessly with the soft disarray of Clint’s place.

“I thought you were in California,” Frank repeats. “Otherwise I would’ve.” He puts the glass back on the nightstand, not bothering to smother his groan of pain. He can feel stitches in his side. Clint knows the damage.

“How’d you get stabbed?” Clint asks, pushing aside a purple t-shirt that Frank definitely doesn’t remember putting on to examine his well-bandaged side. Most of the light in the room is the warm glow of a lamp, but sharp white light is spilling out from an open bathroom door where Frank can see the contents of a first aid kit strewn around the sink.

“I was a thorn in Kingpin’s side.”

“So he put a knife in yours,” Clint says, still so close. He runs his thumb over the top of the bandages, and Frank feels himself shiver. Clint sits up a little more, his face a few inches from Frank’s. He’s not sure if he’s ever seen Clint this serious. “I ordered pizza. Before you showed up, I mean. I saved some for you.”

Frank groans, loud and shameless, and grabs Clint’s arm to pull him just a little closer.

“Marry me,” he says.

“No,” Clint answers, but he still leans in and presses their lips together.

“You- really? You have intel on MODOK and you won’t tell me? What the hell, Frank?” Clint’s on the genuinely-pissed side of joking, but he’s sitting on Frank’s couch, wearing Frank’s t-shirt, and patching himself up with Frank’s bandages, so he can’t find it in him to do much more than smile.

“C’mon, Hawkeye. Don’t be dumb. You’ve worked for SHIELD. You know information ain’t free.” Clint huffs, throwing a pad of gauze Frank’s way. He just grins and lets it bounce off his chest.

“See, I thought we just shared things with each other. I thought this was a relationship, not just some kind of exchange of services.”

“Sure,” Frank hums, sitting forward so he can run his hand up Clint’s ankle. Clint kicks him away half-heartedly. “But my source went through hell to get this particular intel, so it’s going to cost you.”

“Fine,” Clint says, sinking back into the couch and glaring at the TV. “What do you want for it?”

“Marry me?” Frank asks, sliding his hand up to rest on Clint’s thigh. Clint just crosses his arms, keeping his glare on the screen like he gives a shit about Mythbusters.

“No, fuck you, Castle. Settle for a blow job like a normal boyfriend.”

“Boyfriend?” Frank says, grinning even wider. Clint’s cheeks turn pink and Frank can see him struggle to keep his eyes on the TV.

“I said what I said.” Clint’s voice is a little softer. Still pissy, though. “So? You really gonna withhold intel from your boyfriend?”

“You play a dirty game, Barton,” Frank says, sliding his hand up to play with the hem of Clint’s t-shirt. His t-shirt. Clint finally looks back at him, something genuinely affectionate undercutting his glare.

“Yeah, I play a dirty game. Sure. ‘Marry me,’ Jesus Christ.”

“Marry me,” Frank pants, breathing his words against the sweat-damp skin behind Clint’s ear. He rolls his hips and Clint gasps, arching up into him and scraping blunt nails across his back.

“No,” Clint says, biting his lip hard as Frank presses him further into the mattress. “Fuck. No- Oh god. Do that again.”

Frank obliges and counts Clint’s moan as a consolation prize. He presses his fingers harder into Clint’s hips and slides his lips down his jaw.

“Yes,” Clint groans, nails digging into Frank’s back. “Yes, yes. Frank, right there. Fuck, yes.” Frank bites a mark into Clint’s neck and does his best to reduce him to nothing but ‘yes.’

+1.

There’s still bullets whizzing by overhead, still bad guys with guns searching the complex, trying to track down Frank and Clint. They’re holed up pretty good for now, out of sight of any cameras and sheltered enough from gunfire behind layers of steel and concrete. They’re nowhere near free, but Frank watched Clint take out four guys with one arrow and get a fifth on the rebound not twenty minutes ago, so he’s not sure he can keep going without getting the question out of his system and the damn box out of his pocket.

“Hey,” Frank says, tugging Clint back from where he’s peering around their barricade. “Hey, is this a bad time?”

“For what?” Clint asks, and he searches Frank’s face for a moment before he looks down at the ring box sitting open in his hands.

“Marry me?” Frank asks. “While I’m down on my knees and all that.” Clint’s staring at the little red box, and Frank can’t tell if the paleness in his face is from surprise or just blood loss.

He blinks and then looks back up at Frank, fury glinting in his eyes.

“Fucking what?” Clint hisses, just barely quiet enough not to give away their location through the cacophony of gunfire. “Are you kidding me? ‘Is this a bad time?’ Yeah, Frank. It’s a bad fucking time.”

“Is that a ‘no,’” Frank asks, still too high on adrenaline and the thrill of a good fight to do anything but smile.

“Are you serious? Fuck you, ‘marry me,’ I got shot!” Clint gestures emphatically at the gash in his leg.

“You got shot a little,” Frank corrects. “I’m not hearing a ‘no.’” Clint’s jaw clenches and then he grabs the box out of Frank’s hands.

“You’re the worst,” Clint says, pulling the ring out and tossing the box to the side. “Some fucking husband you’ll make. Yes, okay? Yes. Come on, put it on me.”

“Yes sir, Mr. Castle,” Frank says, sliding the ring onto Clint’s left hand. It’s subtle, just brushed steel with a short message etched into the inside. It fits perfectly, and Frank feels a surge of happiness no adrenaline rush could match. He leans forward, trying to catch Clint’s mouth in a kiss but only managing to plant one on his cheek as he turns his head away.

“Nuh uh,” Clint says, biting his cheek like he’s holding back a smile. “If you think I’m gonna be Clint Castle ‘til death do us part you’ve got another thing coming. Our kids’ll get prime alphabetical rank with Barton and I’m not letting you take that away from them.”

“It’s one letter off,” Frank laughs, and Clint’s beaming anyways. He kisses him then, and Frank can feel the cold metal of the ring against his cheek when Clint pulls him closer.

#my fics #castlehawk #Clint/Frank #Frank/Clint #Hawkpun #i've never shipped anything that didn't have a ship name #yikes

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superbcollectorsheep · 3 years

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Can Liquid Nails Bond Wood To Metal?

It’s a common household problem. However, you have another problem. You have a wooden bathroom door and a metal knob. What’s the quickest way to reattach the two surfaces? Can you trust your tube of liquid nails to do the job?

Liquid Nails can bond wood to metal. You can use some variations of liquid nails in construction projects and home improvement projects to bond wood and metal. They have a potent formula that performs in all weather conditions.

Adhesives are a fast and easy solution to most household and construction projects. Most times, you need to bond similar items such as wood on wood or plastics. In other cases, you are faced with the task of joining different surfaces together.

We look at whether liquid nails, a polyurethane adhesive, sticks to their word in a market awash with adhesives. Let’s find out if liquid nails heavy duty can bond wood to metal.

"Liquid Nails" (Liquid Nails) - construction adhesive, which is suitable for connecting all sorts of things by gluing. It is so called because when it is used, parts and surfaces are very firmly glued to each other, as if nails are connected. "Liquid nails" are a mixture of polymers and rubber. They are supplied to the market in the form of tubes of various capacities from 200 to 900 ml. For ease of application and uniform dosing, experts recommend using a construction pistol. How to choose it correctly, and what to look for, will be discussed in the article.

Rechargeable devices are good for their autonomy. They function with a Li-Ion battery. Thanks to the handle, the output of the adhesive is provided, and its speed can also be adjusted - the harder you press, the more glue comes out. The only negative is that you often need to charge the battery or change batteries.

Electric gun It differs from the wireless analogue only in the absence of a battery. The rest of the functionality is the same. Apply them an adhesive substance is obtained quickly and economically. Usually such devices are used by specialists. There is a lot of such a unit, so for use in the home, when there is no large scope of work, the purchase is inappropriate. Insert the composition into the gun is also quite difficult.

If Liquid Nails has bonded to your drywall and you want to remove it, apply heat or a solvent before scraping. This process will make removal easier and reduce damage to the drywall surface. Use a heat gun to soften the Liquid Nails or apply mineral spirits, petroleum jelly, or a similar compound to the dried adhesive. Once the Liquid Nail Glue has softened, scrape it off your drywall. If there is any damage after removal, patch your drywall with joint compound before painting.

Liquid Nails and other construction adhesives won’t irreparably ruin drywall. Construction adhesives bond to the drywall’s paper surface but will not penetrate any deeper than the surface. This means that if you use the right methods to remove Liquid Nails, the damage will be minimal.

Liquid Nails won’t ruin drywall because it only bonds to the paper surface of drywall.

If you’ve removed paneling or a wall fixture that was secured to drywall with Liquid Nails, you’ll probably be left with a bumpy residue of adhesive that won’t budge. Don’t panic. You can get rid of the adhesive and make your walls beautiful again. Just try these techniques.

Heat Gun or Blow Dryer

In many cases, heat will return hardened Liquid Nails to a softer consistency. Use a construction-grade heat gun or a blow dryer to heat the Liquid Nails. Once it begins to change to a putty-like consistency, use a scraper or putty knife to peel the Liquid Nails from your drywall slowly.

Use this heat gun or a blow dryer to heat up the dried Liquid Nails.

As the Liquid Nails changes to a putty-like consistency, use a scraper to remove it from your drywall.

These heat tools are safe to use with drywall and will not cause damage to your walls.

This method is safe to use because drywall is very heat-resistant. The water in gypsum remains in an unevaporated state until temperatures reach 176°F (80°C). Only at temperatures above this point will the water begin to evaporate, increasing the chance of damage to the drywall. You can thus use a heat gun or blow dryer to heat residual construction adhesive without posing a threat to your drywall.

Changing your stair treads is a small but powerful way to update your home. With all the construction adhesives on the market, the household name of liquid nails for flooring comes to mind first, but is it suitable for stair treads? We’ve taken a look into the inner workings of adhesives to find out for you!

Liquid Nails’ brand name is not the first recommended adhesive for stair treads due to its high water content. The higher the moisture levels, the more chances of warping as it dries. A polyurethane glue, such as Loctite PL Premium, is a highly recommended adhesive.

Since the stair treads, or the surface of your stairs, receives a lot of foot traffic, you’ll want to make sure it’s properly installed. We have insider tips and tricks on installing the strongest tread and looking at how to finish them with stains. Keep reading to learn these processes and more!

In particular, Liquid Nails have low VOC but are solvent-based and can cause warping to wood. VOC, or volatile organic compound, is the odor often associated with strong adhesives. The higher the VOC, the more intense the smell, which will require more airflow to reduce breathing it in.

There is also a long curing time to Liquid Nails that can extend your project longer than desired. Liquid Nails can be a good choice for smaller woodworking projects that require a strong bond, but it is better to use a poly construction glue for home improvement. If you only have Liquid Nails available near you, make sure it has low VOC and is not water-based. Then do a test with two pieces of wood to see how it interacts.

To begin, there are four main parts of stairs. The first is the base, known as the stinger. This is the full wooden cut-out board that acts as a ground to lay the treads on. Next are the stairs risers. These are the vertical faces of the stairs that meet the back and then the front of each tread.

Of course, then we have the tread itself, which is the actual stepping surface. Finally, there are the stairs nosing. The nosing is the extra bit of stair tread that over hands above the riser. You can also add a cove molding, which goes over the joint of the riser and tread. It looks similar to adding crown molding to your walls. There are a few extra teams for their build, but these are the main components.

Start by ensuring that the stair tread and sub-tread surfaces, if applicable, are clean of any dust or debris. When working without a stair sub-tread, put globs of glue about 3-4 inches apart on the top of the risers. If there is any glue spillage, you can add a cove molding underneath the treads nosing to hide it, and dress up the stairs. A cove molding is like a skirt underneath the nosing to mask the contact point of the wood.

Subtreads are typically seen on fully closed-in stairs, such as new construction and homes with no basements. They are often made of plywood and are the unfinished version of your staircase. When you have these to work with, you’ll place two rows of quarter-sized globs of adhesive 5-6 inches apart. You’ll want one row in the front and the second towards the back.

Nails are absolutely recommended to use alongside adhesives. While adhesives alone have a strong grip, nails act as a clamping feature to hold the wood to the glue. The pressure from the nails helps reduce the chance of the treads shifting.

Safety is a huge concern when constructing stairs. There is an extra wooden piece that you can add to help strengthen the treads. Known as a glue block, these are 3-4 inch triangular or square parts that go underneath the stairs. You’ll want to install these at any instance wood touches wood.

Glue blocks can be installed with just glue, and often 2 or 3 are placed on the underside where the riser meets the tread. The blocks, along with the staircases skirtboard, should be sealed with a fill caulk. After you put a line down, smooth it out and make sure no small holes appear. Sealing both will help keep moisture out and give the stairs a clean, finished look.

Should I Stain Stair Treads Before Installation?

Yes! Staining your treads before installing them means you’ll be able to see how the stain looks once it drys. You’ll save yourself the headache of trying to restain or remove your new stairs. Also, if you’ve never stained wood before, a good practice run will help you determine how much stain is needed and the best technique to use.

The wood should be totally dry and away from moisture before staining. One of the biggest causes of warping is when the wood planks have different moisture levels throughout. Drier parts of the wood will dry faster after the stain is applied and will tighten at a different rate than the slightly more wet areas.

Along with seeing how the stain will look, for any odd reason, if there is warping, you’ll be able to fit your cut treads again into the stingers to make sure it still fits. Staining is a great way to seal your treads and give them a protective coat against heavy usage.

While liquid nails mirror may not be the first recommendation for installing stair treads, you have other options. Polyurethane adhesives with low VOC will give your stair joints the strength they need. You should use finishing nails alongside an adhesive to act as a pressure hold while the glue dries. Taking time to revamp your staircase will make a huge impact on the quality of your home.

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mmyproperdeets · 4 years

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16 Common Scenarios: When To DIY and When to Hire a Pro

Owning a home is generally liberating, you can make the space that you want, contribute towards your personal equity and not be at the mercy of your rent possibly increasing by 100%. However, it does come with more responsibility as you can no longer call on your landlord for maintenance and repairs. The toilet you never had to use if it wasn’t to dispose of your own bodily fluids? Now you have to upkeep. The beautiful yard which looked so luscious and green when you purchased the property? Yep, your lawnmower has to take care of that now.

You may be tempted to call a professional contractor, plumber, electrician, or landscaper but these things can add up and eat away at your budget. At the same time, in today’s day and age, finding online video tutorials which explain how to do (almost) anything is so easily attainable that it becomes increasingly tempting to just pick up some tools of the trade and do it all yourself, even if you don’t have the skills needed to fix your own home. It’s important to note that a DIY home project without the right planning and knowledge can actually end up being more expensive in the long run as calling a pro down the line would require they fix the original problem plus the new problem that was caused by the homeowner taking on a project he or she was not ready for. Even if you are comfortable with some projects, the knowledge base needed for another project may not be the same. You also have to consider the amount of time, materials, tools, and in some cases, permits that are needed to tackle your home improvement projects.

So what should you DIY and what should you leave to the experts? While we’re all about saving some bucks, there are some times when pros are needed and other times when you should save some cash and do the handiwork yourself. So, whether you are a homeowner who wants to save some money or a renting tenant who just wants to take care of some things without having to wait for your landlord, here are 16 common situations and when you can DIY versus when a pro should be called. Spoiler alert: it’s an even score!

1. Removing Popcorn Ceilings - Hire a pro

For starters, removing popcorn ceilings is extremely messy. Though it is gaining in popularity lately as popcorn ceilings seem to be tied to an old world style, taking on this project requires a lot of steps. To start, the popcorn must be sprayed and softened by a softening agent. The next step would be for all of the surface area must be scraped with a blade. This part can be particularly difficult as scraping unquestionably creates divots and holes on the surface. Those divots and holes need repair with compound that will need to dry and then be sanded smooth before painting. For the last step, everything needs to be primed and then painted with two coats of paint. Since it is all done on the ceiling, the work is overhead and requires the person doing the job to be standing on ladders for long periods of time.

2. Fixing a Leaky Kitchen or Bathroom Pipe - DIY it

Sounds scary, but this can have a simple solution. Sometimes parts of the draining system become lose so it may just be a quick fix. All you would have to do is tighten a slip-nut near the P-Trap. If the leak is coming directly from a hole in the drain pipe, the fix would require a flexible coupling with hose clamps. However, if the leak is inside the wall, then you may want to consider calling a pro.

3. Hanging Wallpaper - Hire a pro

While this seems easier than fixing a leaky kitchen or bathroom pipe, the challenge is getting the wallpaper straight on the wall and matching up the patterns correctly so that it looks smooth. This typically requires two people to do the job. Also, sometimes the wallpaper you hang up can cause bubbling; when this happens you have to remove the wallpaper and install a new strip of wallpaper. This can (1) be very labor intensive and (2) end up using up more wallpaper than needed which would then run up your expense as you would need to order more. Since this isn’t a safe vs. not safe scenario, it’s up to your discretion to decide whether going down the DIY route and the potential savings outweigh the potential risks. Getting a pro to do this job basically guarantees a smooth and predictable result.

4. Painting the Exterior of Your Home - Hire a pro

Talking about labor intensive jobs, painting the exterior of a house is a huge job. The majorities of homes require all of the trim, soffits, and rake boards to be painted. Depending on the type of home, all of the siding would of course need to be painted as well. Not only will this take hours to be done correctly, but it also required extensive use of ladders at high levels and sometimes climbing up on the roof. As a homeowner, you need to consider safety requirements before taking on an exterior job.

5. Fixing a Clogged Garbage Disposal - DIY it

As a first method to repair the problem, you may be able to DIY yourself out of this one. You may be able to clear a clogged disposal by using a small specialty wrench that fits into a hexagonal opening on the underside of the disposal. Make sure that the disposal is turned off before starting the work. If this doesn’t work it would be wise to call on a pro to take a further look at it.

6. Replacing a Faucet – DIY it

This one comes with a huge caveat. We only recommend to DIY it if it’s a centerset type faucet as all you would need to do here would be to follow the faucet manufacturer's installation instructions. A more complicated, wide-spread type of faucet with various hose connections on the underside, however, would be best handled by a professional.

7. Fix a Running Toilet - DIY it

You can get a toilet rebuild kit from big box or hardware stores and fix a running toilet easily by following the straightforward and easy-to-follow instructions that come within the kit. If you have a one-piece or specialty toilet, these can become tricky and would therefore need the professional touch.

8. Installing a Light Fixture - Hire a pro

Though electrical repairs and installations are mostly always expensive, these tasks are best left to a professional electrician. If you’d like to give it a go and take some time to research and understand your electrical system, you may be able to get the necessary skills to complete simple electrical projects yourself. As a rule of thumb for installing a light fixture, low voltage projects can be safely done by a homeowner, but if your project is over 50 volts, it’s best to get an electrician in.

9. Installing a Ceiling Fan - Hire a pro

This one almost goes hand in hand with the above as installing a ceiling fan is not extremely difficult but would require some electric wire work. This task may also be a bit labor intensive and take a few hours depending on your home maintenance experience and the fan itself. Save this project for a professional to ensure the fan is safely installed and isn’t left wobbly as this can be a safety hazard when the fan is on, especially at a high fan setting.

10. Adding Chimes to Your Doorbell - DIY it

A simple home improvement project would be to add chimes to your existing doorbell system. If this is something you are interested in doing, you can do this easily as it is a low-voltage project that doesn’t require the know-how of the pros.

11. Patching a Hole in Drywall – DIY it

Perhaps one of the simplest fixes you can take on is patching a nail hole in your wall. This is an easy way to give your old drywall a fresh face. Just take a spackle knife and fill in each hole with lightweight putty. Then scrape off any excess putty from the wall and let it dry. Once dry, sand the spot down until it is smooth and paint the area which was repaired with primer. If you are looking to take care of a bigger hole, drywall cutting, replacing, or mudding then its best to get a pro in to take care of it.

12. Cleaning Gutters - DIY it

Only go the DIY route on this one if you are comfortable on a ladder. When gutters are clogged, it can cause water to sit still around the house, eventually leaking into the basement, and seeping under siding. Sooner or later this will cause major mold and rot issues. To be preventative in these scenarios, get into the habit of cleaning leaves out the gutters every spring and fall. Please note this is only recommended as a DIY task for single-story homes with level grounding around the foundation and an experienced ladder climber. It is also recommended to do this project when someone else is there to hold the ladder still and help. If your home is two stories or more, or if you aren’t comfortable climbing up a high ladder in order to clean out the debris, it’s best to hire a pro.

13. Re-grouting Tile - DIY it

This may not be the DIY project you start off with, but once you are comfortable with other DIY home maintenance projects then this is a common household fix (or upgrade) which you can do. Since the surface of tile grout is porous, it is easy for dirt to get caught in the cracks of the grout which makes the grout look discolored.

To complete this project you first need to choose the right one out of 4 choices: sanded, unsanded, acrylic latex, or epoxy. To figure out which one you will need, measure the space between your tiles. As a general rule, if the space between the tiles is under 1/8-inch, use an unsanded, acrylic, or epoxy grout. If it is over 1/8-inch, use a sanded grout. Also, don’t forget to match the grout color! Once you purchase the right grout, clean the grouted area. Next use a grout saw in order to remove the damaged grout and then dampen the joints with a wet rag. Take a look at the directions on the grout you purchased and mix accordingly. It is important to fill all the joints completely and smooth over the surface with a damp sponge to remove excess grout. Allow the grout to set firmly and then clean with a damp rag.

14. Installing Molding - Hire a pro

The toughest thing about installing crown molding is the necessity for accurate measurement. Though you may have a power saw (or know where to rent one from), this is also a job that requires great stability while standing on a ladder. You must be able to not only the measurements accurately but also line up the cuts seamlessly. If you have done a good amount of other DIY projects, you may be able to take this on if you feel confident in your skills. Otherwise it would be best to get a pro on this job.

15. Replacing a Door - Hire a pro

If you are simply replacing one door with another door that is exactly the same, then you should be fine doing this yourself. However, adding a new door as a major overhaul can be a big project. For example, if you are looking to add a new door to brighten up a space (like turning two windows into an opening for beautiful French or sliding glass doors) or to cut down on heating and cooling costs, then you want to be sure that the job is done right.

16. Fixing a Sticking Window - Hire a pro

This may seem like a fairly innocuous task, but it can become labor intensive and complicated quite quickly depending on the reason why the window it stuck in the first place. Sometimes it can be caused by a buildup of dirt and debris in the window casing. Other times it can be due to problems in the foundation of the home shifting and therefore causing windows to lose alignment and get stuck. Or it can be something as simple as forgetting to let the paint dry during the last DIY project and closing the window before it completely dries, thus causing the window to glue closed. If you live in a high humidity area, this can also cause doors and windows to swell and bind them in the jamb. Since there are so many causes for a sticking window, in order to fix a stuck window often involves removing the window which could require using a belt sander or planer. If you’re not super experienced at home repairs or home renovations and do not have the know-how to safely use the tools required, it’s best to let the pros handle this task.

#homedepotrentaltools homedepotrentalequipment toolrentals

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tilecleaningtoday · 5 years

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How to Patch Scratches and Small Holes in Hardwood Floors

Every type of flooring takes a beating from shoes, kids, pets, and moving furniture. At some point, even hardwood floors show signs of wear and tear. Scratches and small holes in hardwood floors draw in the eye and might be causing you stress too. It’s spendy to bring in a professional for small repairs, though, so consider doing the work yourself to fix those scratches.

It doesn't matter whether your hardwood floor is maple, walnut, mahogany, bamboo, or oak. The process for patching is the same, and typically includes using a filler of some sort.

What You’ll Need:

Stain

Finish

Buffer

Sandpaper

Wood putty

Putty knife

Paintbrushes

Polyurethane

Sponge brush

Safety goggles

Face mask

Step 1 - Investigate the Scratch First, take a closer look and and make sure the imperfection is really a scratch. Sometimes a mark can look worse than it really is. If you can, figure out whether the scratch is just on the finish or goes into the wood itself.

Step 2 - Fix Scratches Superficial scratches can typically be buffed out. Try some furniture cleaner or wood restore oil.

To fix deeper scratches, you'll need to fill them in following the directions for fixing holes below. The easiest first line of defense is a wax repair stick made specifically for this task. Look for a color that matches your wood. If the paste wax won’t stick to your finish, you’ll have to move on to another tactic.

When fillers are required, make sure you locate the right one for the job. Latex fillers are common, but they don't hold stains, so they're primarily for deep but very narrow holes such as small gaps or nail holes.

Epoxy filler is another option that's a little more work, as it requires mixing together two ingredients to create the compound. It's shrink and crack resistant, so it makes a good choice for filling cracks. Like latex, epoxy fillers don’t work well with stain, so make sure you choose a color that matches your flooring. For the best match, use sawdust from your flooring and mix it with glue to make your own filler.

For areas with large scratches, use a sander to bring the surface down to the existing flooring. Start with 100-grit and finish with 150-grit or 200-grit. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain and feather out the edges slightly to blend in with the surrounding floor.

WARNING: For safety, always wear a dust mask, gloves, and a pair of goggles when sanding.

When you're done, you'll need to refinish that section of flooring, which is perhaps the most difficult part of hardwood flooring repair. If your repair spot is large, you may want to wait until you're refinishing the entire floor to make your repairs, or call in a professional that can match both your stain color and finish style. To do it yourself, you’ll want to know whether your finish is urethane or wax so you can match it with your repair.

Step 3 - Sand the Holes Hardwood flooring can start wearing away as time passes, and you may start to notice small holes in the wood. Clean these indents with a folded piece of sandpaper. Fold the sandpaper so it has a pointed edge.

It’s important to smooth the edges so the repair materials stick to raw wood rather than a finish on the flooring. Use a hair dryer or burst of air from a compressor to blow dust out of the hole or task a shop vac with the job.

Step 4 - Apply Wood Putty Choose a wood filler that matches the color of your hardwood floor. Use a putty knife to put the putty into the holes in small quantities, and press it down so it fills the holes completely. Apply a bit of extra putty over the hole so you have a small mound.

Check and read the manufacturer’s instructions to see how long you should wait for the putty to dry thoroughly. It usually takes about 24 hours. Use sandpaper to smooth the bump down until it's level with the surrounding floor.

Step 5 - Stain the Floor For those fillers that accept stain, use a sponge brush to apply it to the area where you filled the hole. Let the stain dry thoroughly for a day, then apply two coats of polyurethane gloss.

Use the sponge brush again and allow the gloss to dry overnight. Sand the area lightly after the first coat dries, creating a shine on the restored hardwood floor. Keep the spot blocked off for two days so the floor cures thoroughly before you use it again.

Step 6 - If the Damage Is Too Bad, Replace the Board When the damage is too extensive for an easy repair, it’s better to remove and replace the damaged wood. To do this, use a hammer and chisel to create a straight line cut across the board. Using a circular or other saw, cut a few relief lines along the length of the board so you can remove the pieces of board.

Clean out the empty section and ensure your end cuts are straight so the new piece sits flush on both ends. Remove the lower edge of the groove portion on the new board so it can lower into place. Make sure you cut your new board so the tongue fits into the groove of the installed flooring. Then install your new board and finish it with stain and sealer to match your existing floor.

Source: www.DoItYourself.com

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ohicosplay · 8 years

Photo

Cata: Rose Quartz’s sword is a project we started in July of 2016 that ended up going on hold because life got in the way. in January 2017, Queadlunn picked up the project and finished it.

This sword is a combination of Sintra (blade) and styrene (hilt and detail pieces) with an oak dowel for the grip. We also used a belt sander, rotary tool, drill press, and power jig saw for this build. We understand not everyone has access to these tools so I’ll include alternate solutions, but having a rotary tool at the very least is recommended.

Onto the tutorial! (Note: image heavy)

This is the primary guide we used for the sword. The size of the sword depends on what you want to do. If you’re cosplaying Rose Quartz, the sword is sized to her so you’ll make it smaller than if you were cosplaying Connie or Steven. If you’re cosplaying Stevonnie, the sword is smaller than Connie or Steven, but still larger than Rose Quartz.

Or you can ignore all of that make the sword however big or small you want because it’s your sword.

The total length of our sword is 39 1/2 inches. The blade itself is 29 1/2 inches and 3 inches across. The grip is longer to accommodate two hands, but you could make it one-handed if you wanted.

For easy transportation, consider making the blade removable. The easiest way is to drill into the grip and blade a few inches, then glue a metal rod into the blade. Drop the rod into the grip and you’re done. This method will also give the blade more support, especially if you’re using EVA foam.

The Blade

(Previous post on the blade)

If you use Sintra and there’s a TAP Plastics nearby (or other place that will cut to order), a 3 feet by 3 inch piece 1/2 inch piece is only 5 dollars.

For the bevel, we used a belt sander and WM Armory’s beveling tutorial.

http://www.wmarmory.com/?p=2248

If you don’t have a belt sander but have a rotary tool:

http://www.wmarmory.com/?p=1210

The above tutorials will also work on EVA foam if that’s what you choose to make the blade out of. Make sure you practice before tackling the blade itself. It’s really easy to mess up and gouge the material. We had to get a second blade piece cut because of this.

It’s also up to how far the bevel goes. You can either bevel the entire light pink section or stop short. Our bevel only goes halfway up the light pink because we had trouble getting a full bevel to look good on both sides.

The decorative collar on the blade is 2mm EVA foam. I used cardstock to make a pattern, cut it out of foam, painted it, and glued it on. The lighter rose petal portion was a separate piece, but you can make it all one piece.

The Hilt

We ended up making two hilts. The first was completely out of EVA foam.

I ended up taking two pieces of 3 mm EVA foam, heating them up with a heat gun, then squishing them into a bowl to force the dome shape. The two pieces were glued together, the edges sanded flush, and filled with wood filler. The curved part was cut from 6 mm EVA foam and heat formed to get the curve in before I glued it to the hilt.

For structural reasons, we ended up moving to a styrene hilt. However, using EVA foam will absolutely work!

The second hilt used the exact same method as the first one, except Queadlunn used the stove to heat up the styrene. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN HEATING PLASTIC.

The circles on the underside of the hilt are 2 mm EVA foam circles cut with the circle cutter on our drill press. You could cut the circles by hand or paint them on.

With the decorative flower piece on the hilt, we decided to go a different route and create a physical piece instead of painting it on. Queadlunn covered the hilt and the bottom of the blade with plastic wrap, put WaterWeld Expoy Putty on top of the hilt, and squished the blade down on it. That created a small lip and clear indentation of where the blade sat. Once the WaterWeid dried, Queadlunn used a rotary tool to carve the shape. The piece was later sealed to the hilt with JB Weld epoxy.

If you want to do something similar, you could probably do the same with clay.

The Grip and Pommel

You can see it assembled in the hilt picture above, but these are the separate pieces.

The grip is a an oak dowel cut to size and wrapped with leather. We got lucky and found some leather from a leather supply shop that was a close match to the color we needed. Queadlunn cut a strip of leather, glued it down as he wrapped it, then went back with leather cord painted dark purple and wrapped it around the seams.

The pommel consists of two Sintra pieces. The circle was cut using a circle cutter, then the edges cut in with a rotary tool. Instead of using white like the picture shows, we used light pink to tie the color in.

The larger pommel piece was several discs of Sintra glued together with contact cement and sanded to a taper with the belt sander. The gem housing and petals were cut with a rotary tool. The pink on the pommel is the same pink used on the hilt.

The gem itself was a plastic gem picked up from the craft foam, painted pink with Sharpie markers, and glued in with clear epoxy.

Painting the Sword

Here are the main colors we used

Dark pink (blade): Valspar Satin Thistle Field (85020)

Light pink (blade): Krylon Colormaster Ballet Slipper Satin

Hilt, pommel: Valspar Gloss Frosty Berry (85022)

Dark purple: Valspar Satin Sumptous Purple (85025)

The blade was wetsanded to make it smooth and shiny. If you don’t know what wetsanding is, I wrote a tutorial on it:

https://ohicosplay.tumblr.com/post/118296273887/the-ura-once-nearly-sacked-the-city-with-these

It’s entirely optional, but if you want some extra gloss, there you go.

The vine pattern was painted by Queadlunn. He masked the whole sword with tape* and drew out the pattern with a compass and freehand, then used a X-acto knife to cut the pattern out. He painted everything with white acrylic paint, then once it was dried, remasked it, and used pink acrylic paint to paint the center stripe.

The same was done for the vine pattern on the grip.

The inside of the hilt was painted with purple spray paint, then the two circles were glued in after.

The final seal coat is an acrylic sealer/finish in semi-gloss and we don’t be doing any weathering to keep the pristine/cartoony look. The finish you go with and if you do any weathering is entirely up to you.

Thanks for reading the tutorial! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

#cosplay tutorial #steven universe #rose quartz #cosplay help #prop tutorial #weapon tutorial #sword #OHI Cosplay #OHI Cosplay tutorials #OHI Lion

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kamdhenupaint · 3 years

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Step-by-Step Guide on how to paint Interior House Paint

Table of Contents:

Introduction

Plan your approach

Choose your colour

Determine how much paint you’ll need

Prep the walls and the room

Pick your painting techniques

Don’t forget ventilation

Clean up

Conclusion

Introduction

Painting your interior house yourself is being practiced a lot these days. After all, it's relatively painless, cheap, and simple to repair if anything goes terribly wrong. But, before you catch your roller and get rolling, make sure you have a strategy in mind. The measures you'll need to take to ensure your project's progress are outlined below.

Plan your approach

Begin by imagining how you want the finished paint to look, and keep in mind that you aren't restricted to four walls of the same colour. Consider an accent interior wall paint in a bright colour or using a contrasting shade or finish to highlight mouldings. Don't forget to take a look up to see if the roof could use some TLC as well.

Choose your colour

It's easy to get overwhelmed when looking at fan decks and paint chips. Begin by determining the basic colour characteristics. If you have any current furniture or artwork, think about how the shade can complement it. Pick a few colours and get samples until you've figured out what colour you want. Examine the shades to see if they appear in the room at various periods of the day.

Do not begin the home painting through the entire area until you have purchased the desired colour. Colors will appear different in different lighting, so you'll need to test it out in the real world.

Determine how much paint you’ll need

Every project is different, and depending on the paint you select and the state of your walls, you can need different materials, but there are a few must-haves. Paint, Paint roller, drop cloths, Paintbrushes, extension pole, Paint tray, Painter’s tape, Sandpaper, Putty knife, Rags these are the things you must have before you start painting your walls.

When going from dark to bright, you'll probably need more house paint. A deep colour foundation, on the other hand, usually necessitates more coats of paint than a lighter colour. To help reduce the number of applications, apply a grey tinted primer to the surface before painting the walls a saturated colour. You may have learned that the glossier the finish, the higher the coverage rate, but the difference isn't significant enough to affect the amount of gallons you need to purchase.

Buy a little extra if you're painting a heavily textured surface rather than a smooth one. Cabinets with intricate millwork need more paint, so buy around 15% more than you think you'll need.

Prep the walls and the room

If you don't want to ruin your favourite sofa, remove anything from the room. Push everything to the centre if you don't have enough space. Cover the bits with a drop cloth or light plastic sheeting, and the floor in the same way. Paint can splatter if you don't use a drop cloth.

Apply a roll of painter's tape tightly to the room's corners, base and crown mouldings, and door and window casings, sealing with a putty knife if necessary. It's all about getting a nice seal so paint doesn't get under the tape, and it'll pull away cleanly until everything is dry. You can completely avoid taping if you dare (or have an artist's steady hand).

Pick your painting techniques

Stir the paint with a wooden paint stick and re-stir as required during the project. If you're using more than one gallon of paint, mix the cans together in a big bucket in case there's a colour difference.

Your interior wall paint is mixed and your roller is ready, but before you begin, make sure you have a strategy in mind. Start at the top from the roof and work your way down, till the floor. Plan on three coats if you're painting dark walls with a lighter hue: your primer, plus two coats of the new paint to ensure nothing shines through.

One wall at a time should be tackled. Paint the moulding and corners from top to bottom with a brush, while your friend covers the main expanse of the wall with a roller, avoiding the more detailed spots. Using long strokes in a W pattern while applying paint with the roller for maximum coverage (and to avoid those pesky roller marks). The wall is ready for a second coat once it is dry to the touch.

Remove the painter's tape and wait for the walls to dry before adding tape to the walls if you're painting the trim. Begin with the ceiling trim, then move on to the door and window frames, and finally the baseboards.

Don’t forget ventilation

Through opening all the windows and using fans, you can confirm that your room is well-ventilated during the Home painting. Keeping the room warm and using a fan to speed up the drying process is a must. If it's a rainy day, the paint can take even longer to dry.

Clean up

You've applied several coats, so it's not yet time to unwind. Remove all painters tape and collect drop cloths, ensuring that any spills or splatters are completely dry before moving them. Brushes for latex and water-based paints should be cleaned with soap and water, while brushes for oil-based paints should be cleaned with mineral spirits. Cleaning and reshaping bristles may be done with a painter's brush. If you choose to reuse roller covers, remove the interior paint with the curved edge of a 5-in-1 tool under running water.

The length of time it takes to complete your project is determined by the size of the room, the method you use to paint, and your ability level. Make sure you prepare for more time than you expect the job would take, and don't forget to plan for prep and cleanup.

Conclusion

As discussed above, it is not that hard to paint your interior house if you follow those steps properly. Besides, the joy you will have after the perfect self painted walls is incomparable

It is also important to have the best quality paints to make this work. I would suggest Kamdhenu Paints for best quality paints, tons of various colours and paint equipment in a very affordable range.

Happy Painting!

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fisherbuildingco · 5 years

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How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets: 11 Expert Steps Anyone Can Follow

You can learn how to paint kitchen cabinets in 11 steps. They include choosing the right paint, cleaning and repairing the kitchen cabinets, priming them, and then painting the kitchen cabinets. You’ll also have to reassemble them at the end. This article can show you the 11 steps so your kitchen cabinets can look as amazing as you want them to.

It would have been easier had they known how to paint kitchen cabinets before the holidays.

Lisa waves goodbye as her family drives back home after Christmas. As soon as they are out of sight, her hand drops to the bridge of her nose and holds it. All the tension she’s been holding back is finally releasing.

It’s been a hard couple of days.

Her mother is a wonderful woman except for when it comes to critiquing. Then, she can be relentless. She took immediate notice of every mark and ding in the house, especially in the kitchen. Their open concept kitchen makes it one of the best places to socialize, especially when the cooking food makes it smell amazing.

The kitchen cabinets took the brunt of the commentary. “Well,” Lisa thinks to herself, “they do look old and sort of dingey. I guess they could use some work…”

Robert (her husband) sees this play out on her face and carefully says “Guess I’d better look up how to paint kitchen cabinets, right honey?” Lisa only nods in response. He squeezes her hand and walks inside.

She’ll come in to help when she’s ready. In the meantime, he’s going to look up the steps on how to paint kitchen cabinets.

General Steps To Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Choose The Right Paint

Setup A Temporary Kitchen (If Desired)

Determine State Of Current Kitchen Cabinet Paint

Cover Areas Not To Be Painted

Take Apart Kitchen Cabinets

Clean & Repair Kitchen Cabinets

Sand Cabinets Smooth & Even

Prime Kitchen Cabinets

Paint Doors & Drawers

Paint Kitchen Cabinets

Reassemble Kitchen Cabinets

Tools & Materials

Dust Mask/Safety Mask

Glasses/Safety Goggles

Gloves (Work & Rubber)

High Quality Paint

Drop Cloths/Tarps

Stripping Product & Plastic Scraper (only if removing paint)

Wood Filler & Putty Knife (if repairing damages)

TSP (trisoduim phosphate)

Sponges

Buckets

Screwdrivers

Sealable Bags

Painter’s Tape

Pen/Sharpie

Sandpaper

Shop Vacuum (trust me, it’s worth it)

Painter’s Tripods

Primer

Paint Brushes

Paint Rollers (mini and normal size) With Foam Covers

1. Choose The Right Paint

Robert reads first about what type of paint to choose for painting kitchen cabinets.

The best jobs require the best paints. Higher quality paints tend to look better and last longer than low quality. After all, you get what you pay for. Choose an acrylic paint. It is durable, easy to clean, and low maintenance.

Semi-gloss and satin finishes are popular choices for painting kitchen cabinets. They are easy to clean and don’t show dings and mistakes easily.

Ensure the paint you are using is appropriate for the cabinet material.

Robert can do that. It’s as easy as asking a team member at the local hardware store or reading the labels. But wait, what will they do for a kitchen while it’s being painted?

2. Setup A Temporary Kitchen (If Desired)

Lisa comes in and sits next to Robert.

“Honey, do you want to set up a temporary kitchen or just eat out a lot?” asks Robert. “Let’s just make enough food so we can microwave leftovers for a few days,” replies Lisa.

Now they need to see the state of their current kitchen cabinets.

3. Determine State Of Current Kitchen Cabinet Paint

Their kitchen cabinets have seen better days.

They can see the wear and tear now that they are looking for it. “No wonder mom kept talking about how much better their new kitchen is,” Lisa mutters.

If the paint is in good condition you won’t have to scrape it off (thankfully). If it is, apply a stripping product with a brush, wait for the reaction, and then peel it off with a plastic scraper. You can remove the rest of it with sandpaper once it dries.

They decide to go on to the next step.

4. Cover Areas Not To Be Painted

Paint can be difficult to work with.

If you don’t take this precaution you could be finding paint flecks all over your kitchen: floors, backsplash, appliances, and other areas. You’ll be doing a good amount of sanding too. Coverings make it easier to clean off the dust it creates and keeps it from getting into any and everywhere.

“We still have drop cloths from our last paint job, right Robbie?” Lisa asks. “Yeah hon, we have enough for the entire kitchen actually.” Robert responds.

They continue reading the instructions on how to paint kitchen cabinets.

5. Clean & Repair Kitchen Cabinets

Before the painting starts, the couple still have a few more steps.

First, repair any damage (dings, dents, or scratches) if you’d like. Wood filler and a putty knife should do nicely. Follow the instructions that come with the wood filler. Then, clean the cabinets with TSP. Paint doesn’t stick well to dirty surfaces.

6. Take Apart Kitchen Cabinets

“Do we have to take apart our cabinets?” Lisa questions.

Taking them apart ensures you can do the best job possible. This means not missing any areas for the family to point out next time they come over (right, Lisa?)

Remove the doors and drawers. Label everything with painter’s tape and a pen so you know where it goes for reinstallation. This includes the screws and smaller parts. You can put these in labeled, sealable bags so they don’t end up lost.

“That is a great idea! I wish I’d thought of that sooner”, Robert reflects, “would have made my life so much easier.”

7. Sand Cabinets Smooth & Even

Use medium-grit sandpaper (150 grit or so).

Sanding helps the paint stick to the surface, well, as long as you clean up the dust afterward. Sandpaper is great because you can fold it up to reach in corners and other detail areas.

It’s finally time to start using the painting tools.

8. Prime Kitchen Cabinets

But it isn’t time to paint just yet.

“Do we even need to prime?” Lisa asks. “If we want a great, longer lasting paint job then yes.” Robert replies. Primer helps paint bond to the surface even more tightly. This means it will be a longer period of time before it needs painting again, which can save time, money, and effort in the long run.

Start at the back of the cabinets and work forward using even strokes. Make sure your final stroke finishes back into the wet primer (all the pro painters do this.) After finishing, take your now dry roller and “lay off” the primer, i.e. remove any buildup by collecting it on the dry roller.

“Now we can finally start painting!” exclaims Lisa.

9. Paint Doors & Drawers

Start by painting the backs of the doors and letting them dry. As they do, paint the fronts (and only the fronts) of the drawers. Painting the sides and such can cause them to stick to the rollers.

Then paint the fronts and let them dry. After the first coat completely dries add on your second coat and let it dry.

Then you can paint the actual cabinet parts.

10. How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets (The Actual Painting Part)

Start by painting the frames. Brushes are ideal for detail areas and mini rollers for the larger ones. Use even strokes, always finishing back into the wet paint. Then move to the backs of the cabinets and paint from the top down. Take your now dry roller and roll it over the paint to even it out so there aren’t any lumpy areas. Let it dry completely .

11. Reassemble Kitchen Cabinets

“This is like putting together a puzzle. Good thing we like puzzles, right Robbie?” Lisa teases. Robert’s never been great with puzzles.

Follow the labels you made at the beginning and put everything back where it should be. Then you can step back and admire your handiwork.

Let’s Start!

Lisa and Robert now know how to paint kitchen cabinets. They can transform their kitchen with a brand new look or refresh the old so it looks good as new. Next time the family won’t have anything to complain about. Now they should probably move to cleaning the hardwood floors…

The post How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets: 11 Expert Steps Anyone Can Follow appeared first on Fisher Building Co..

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simmonsweronika14-blog · 6 years

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Installing Wallpaper

When you want to have wallpaper installed in your home, consider these things. Wallpaper has a longevity over paint. It will outlast paint 8 to 1. It gives your walls that "WOW" you cannot get with paint. Properly installed it will last a long time and can be removed easily when applied over a good primer/sealer. The horror stories I have seen when a contractor or home owner has installed wallpaper over a sub standard primer over my 27 years in the business have given this industry a undeserving bad name.

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If you are removing old wallpaper before installing new, use a good stripping solution that can be sprayed through a good 1 1/2 gal. pump up garden sprayer. First you will need to strip the face (the printed surface) off before the solution will penetrate the backing. Make sure to cover all electrical plates with duct tape to prevent any water coming in contact with them. Don't be shy with the amount you put into the sprayer and don't be shy on how much you spray on the wall. Fill the sprayer with warm water to help the solution penetrate better. Cover the floor with painters drop cloths or use several towels to absorb the run off. I like to spray several light coats on the wall, waiting about 3 to 5 minutes in between. Let the solution do the work. The backing paper should start to bubble and you can start trying to peel, scrape the backing off. Make sure not to gouge the walls no more that you have to. If the walls were prepared with a good primer/sealer, the backing should come off clean. If they were not, say a prayer because you will most likely damage the wall surface trying to remove the backing.

If the walls are painted, then you are ready to apply a good primer/sealer that will prepare the surface for the new wallpaper. I like two bands "Zinzer 1-2-3 and" Kilz Premium".there are others on the market that work well and are recommended for wallpaper, but I have used these two for 27 years and have had good success with both.

Please note though: These will NOT work on a High shine or oil surface. For those walls you will need to use a product called "Gripper" Most knowledgeable Paint stores can help you with this. Prime the walls and let dry over night.

Installing wallpaper is not for everyone. It takes a special skill and lots of patience. That being said, I will try and share my knowledge over the last 27 years to give you the best advice that I can.

When picking out the wallpaper, there are several things to remember. Shinny finishes on wallpaper will tend to highlight any texture or imperfections on the walls that are to be covered. If you are dealing with a textured wall, try and pick a wallpaper that will disguise (hide) the texture. The other option would be to have a sheet rock contractor come in a smooth out the texture. Some textures are less noticeable than others. Be aware that dark colored wallpapers will tend to show their seems slightly more that light colors. Large repeats in the pattern match will cause more waste and more wallpaper. Some wallpapers are pre-pasted and some are not. Wallpapers are sold in double rolls with widths ranging from 20 1/2"...27" and 36."

Your basic tools that you will need are: A plastic smoothing tool or a smoothing brush (I use the plastic), a sharp pair of scissors, a level, a measuring tape (at least 12'), single edge or snap off blades (Lots of these), a 6" metal putty knife (for trimming along edges with your razor blade), some kind of table to paste and trim your wallpaper, a ladder (high enough to reach the ceiling without any danger of falling over, I use a 4' ladder for 8' and 9' ceilings).

So, if I have not scared you off yet, let me try and explain how to install your new wallpaper. Always read the directions (I still do and learn something all the time, not to mention it saves my Butt if something goes wrong!)

I usually check the width of the wallpaper first and make small marks with a pencil (NO PENS) on the walls to see where the seams might land if I started in a certain area. After that, I will make adjustments back and forth to get the best seam placement that I can. Once this is done, I will make a cut list of the pieces I need. I would not recommend this to everyone. You might want to cut 3 sheets at a time, paste and install them before cutting anymore. I like to allow 3"-4" over the exact measurement of the wall for my selvage edge trimming top and bottom.

Wallpaper Installation Singapore

I paste ALL my wallpaper. Pre-pasted is pasted with a thinned down version of the regular wallpaper paste that I use. This makes it much more movable on the wall and gives it an extra grip. Paste 2 -3 sheets, fold the sheets paste to paste so they will not dry out and let them sit 3-5 minutes. This gives them time to relax and expand

(yes wallpaper is made from wood and when wood gets wet, it expands). Take the first sheet and apply it to the line on the wall that you made (while waiting for the wallpaper to relax). Carefully align it next to the pencil mark, starting at the top, leaving about 2 inches wrapped onto the crown or ceiling. Continue to align the edge to the pencil mark down the wall. Use your smoothing tool to smooth out the wallpaper and the bubbles. That care not to treat the wallpaper to aggressive or it will tear. Use your 6' putty knife to hold wallpaper down as you use a razor blade to trim top and bottom. use 1 blade per cut! Take care to wash the wallpaper with a soft sponge and towel dry.

Congratulation, You just hung your first piece of wallpaper. Continue with the next piece and align it up to the one on the wall, making sure that the pattern matches. Smooth, trim, wash and towel dry. Please note that small bubbles under the wallpaper are common and will disappear when wallpaper is completely dry ( about 2 days).

When working around windows and doors, take care not to tear the wallpaper at the corners. I use my scissors to make a relief cut, coming towards the corner of the door or window with my scissors and stopping right on or a little short of the corner. This will allow you to work the sheet around the corner without tearing it.

Design Built in wardrobe

Remember to keep your work table clean of glue. Have several sponges handy to wash the table, your tools, hands and the finished wallpaper. Any glue left on the wallpaper could damage the finished surface over time (several months might go by and then the print starts to flake off the front) Also make sure to clean the ceiling, crown, baseboards, cabinets with clean water and towel dry.

Resource

#Japan Wallpaper

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andrewbertolucci · 7 years

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How to Shop for Old Window Repairs

While most homeowners love their homes, not every home is perfect. There are one or two things the homeowner would like to change, such as an outdated bathtub for a new walk-in shower or updating the look of their kitchen. And then there’s occasional “uh-oh” of the unexpected repair. We’re going to identify several projects and some of the ins and outs of what you can expect.

How to Shop for Old Window Repairs

If your home has old double hung windows installed before the 1960s, you know that keeping them in repair and functioning well can be an ongoing battle. Depending on how well-made the windows are, how well they were installed, and how well they were maintained over the years, these windows can leave you stuck with all sorts of problems — cracked glass, crumbling window glazing, thick coats of paint that stick sashes to stops or jambs, broken or missing counterweight sash cords, and rotting sills. The whole thing might look to you like a mountainous disaster. I once owned a home built in 1926. All but one of the double hung windows had an access hole cut into it for the sash counter weights. My wife and I called that one window the “Friday Beer-Thirty Window.”

Not only do these older windows look bad once their parts start to deteriorate, but you could also experience drafts and other issues that might increase your energy bill.

Fortunately, these old wooden double hung sash windows are actually easy to repair. Most were made with stock sizes of moulding lumber that you can get at your local home center. That means window parts like parting strips and stop beads that have broken or warped can be easily matched and replaced.

If the sash rattles or doesn’t completely close, then it’s drafty and letting in moist outside air. Most windows built before 1980 were not equipped with weatherstripping. For old double hung windows, you can help them close snugly by adding weatherstripping.

How to Repair a Rattling Window Sash

Clean the area. Start by cleaning out any dirt, dust, or gunk from the window jambs and along the sill.

Add weather stripping. Next, add weather stripping to areas where you find drafts leaking through. Self-adhesive foam weather stripping is inexpensive and easy to apply— but it’s not always the right kind. You’ll want the right weatherstripping for the right job, and make sure it’s also the right thickness.

Remove excess paint. Sash windows shouldn’t rattle but firmly press against parting strips. Thick coats of paint with noticeable drip bulges will prevents this so you might need to remove the sash and sand the places where the window and parting strips touch.

Adjust the stop bead placement. You can also firm up this joint by removing and adjusting the placement of the stop beads on either side of the sash.

Because walls, windows, and doors all expand and contract at different rates, windows and doors are installed to “float” inside the rough opening of the building’s framing, held in place by wooden shims. Still, it leaves open space around the window that lets outside air and moisture leak into your home. If you have air leaking around the window frame, that means these gaps need sealing.

How to Repair Air Leaks Around the Window Frame

Remove trim and debris. Start by removing the outside trim and fascia boards from around the window. Remove any old insulation, rags, and paper, as well as dirt, dust, and loose wood. A wet/dry vac can be a big help.

Insert a backer rod. Next insert a backer rod into the gaps as far as it will go and cover it over with silicon caulk. If you find the gaps are wide and deep, then use expanding foam. You don’t want to use the big-gap type expanding foam because it can actually bend and distort the window frame. Fortunately, there are insulating foam formulations that expand just enough to seal the space.

Trim the excess foam. Once the caulk or foam has hardened and cured, trim off the excess so that it is flush with the wall.

Install a drip cap. Next, install a drip cap across the top of the window to shield the window assemble from rain. Drip caps are available in a variety of sizes, so know your window size when you go shopping. New windows are installed with aluminum flashing or a gasket to keep rain water from getting into the wall. While flashing around an existing window may not do a 100% effective job at keeping out moisture, it can help reduce drafts. An easy-to-use window and door gasket is made of butyl that comes in rolls and goes on like tape. Start by putting one strip below the window all the way across. The next two go on either side of the window and the final strip runs all the way across the top.

Reattach the trim and fascia boards.

The glass in old single-paned windows is kept in place with a combination of tiny metal “glazer’s points” and glazing putty. Glazing putty is a mixture of talc, powered limestone, and any number of petroleum solvents. When cured, it’s rock hard does a great job of sealing out the weather. But when glazing putty gets old and dries out, it loses cohesion and crumbles. If the glazing is crumbling on your old windows, you need to replace it. Unfortunately, glazing a window takes some practice to do the job right. Otherwise, it can look hideous.

The alternative is use 100% silicon caulk.

How to Repair Window Glazing

Remove the old glazing. First, remove the crumbling glazing putty with a sharp-edged chisel. You shouldn’t have to push hard, just let the chisel’s edge do all the work. Also, be careful to remove any old glazing points.

Insert new glazing points. Once the glazing putty is removed, insert one or two glazing points for every 2’ of glass. Carefully push these in place with a flat screwdriver or putty knife.

Use caulk. Lay down two beads of silicon caulk right next to each other where the glazing was. Then, use a putty knife at 45° angle to smooth the caulk into place along the entire bottom edge of the window glass. TIP- Spit once or twice on the blade edge of the putty knife before you use it to smooth the caulk. The little bit of saliva prevents the caulk from adhering to the putty knife and helps leave a smooth finish. You could also use your finger, but that tends to get a bit messy.

Let dry. Most silicon caulk formulations take 5 to 10 minutes to “skin-over” and then up to several hours to set depending on ambient temperature.

from http://ift.tt/2BikBXB

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chekoribrownart-blog · 7 years

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Beginners Guide to Making a Scale Model Tank by NicholasC113

I like this low cost starters guide to model tank building

and wanted to promote his method. I fallowed the steps my self and had no significant hangups.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Beginners-Guide-to-Making-a-Scale-Model-Tank/

Introduction: Beginners Guide to Making a Scale Model Tank

So for this Instructable I will not actually be going through the kit instructions with you. Model instructions are simply for telling you where parts go, they don't tell you how to make the model look nice and the techniques involved. I will fill in those gaps so that you can take your model to a higher level without confusion. I am building a tank because tanks are super easy to build and it's hard to make look bad. Tanks are dirty and worn and that is super easy to replicate.

About me- I have been a modeler since 2010. I build and sell my models regularly and have repeated happy customers.

Step 1: Warnings

I'd first like to say that this is a dangerous hobby. Anything that is a liquid, dust, or has an odor should be considered dangerous in this hobby. You must wear proper protective equipment when building models. Respirators should be worn at all times when painting. Wash your hands immediately after you are done working on your model.

Step 2: Items Needed

1. Glue - The best glue for plastic on plastic adhesion is an acetone-based glue made for models. I use primarily "Tamiya Extra Thin Cement". You will also want to have some super glue close by. Gel and liquid types of super glue are good for different purposes.

2. Xacto Knife - This is going to help clean up your parts from excess plastic and also for cutting and scrapping.

3. Sprue Cutters/Side Cutters (or nail clippers) - Sprue cutters are worth every penny. I use Xuron sprue cutters and they are made for cutting plastic model sprues. They use a shearing action and will stay useful for many years without replacement. You can also use nail clippers if you are just starting out, but they do not work as well.

4. Putty - I recommend that you get a putty to use as filler. You will have gaps and seams in your models and you will want to fill them for a better look. I use Tamiya fine white putty and also an epoxy called Milliput.

5. Paint - Use paint specifically for model making. Paint includes a good primer for model making.

6. Masking tape - You will need masking tape. You can elect to use regular blue painters tape but I recommend Tamiya masking tape as it comes in smaller widths.

7. Sand paper - You will need all kinds of sand paper grit, form 150 all the way to 10,000 depending on the type of model. For this tank I am using 150 grit and 1,000 grit.

8. Oil paint - For weathering

9. Paint brush, airbrush, or spray can

10. Rag - one you don't mind being covered in oil paint

Step 3: Getting Started

Sprues are what your moIdel parts come in. I first advise you to clean your sprue and parts in water with soft soap. This will remove the grease left from the model mold. This grease can potentially not allow paint to stick to the model.

Your sprue will usually be labeled a letter and each part a number. This will correspond to your instructions provided with the model.

Step 4: Removing Parts

Do not twist parts from the sprue. This will leave holes in your parts and will look bad. You should use sprue cutters or nail clippers to cut the parts out.

Step 5: Remove Extra Plastic

After removing your part from the sprue you will want to remove excess plastic. I first scrape the plastic off with an Xacto knife. I then sand it down with some rough grit sandpaper. Many modellers are in a rush to finish and skip this step. It can lead to part fit problems and an overall poor look to the model if it is skipped.

Step 6: Gluing Parts Together

Here I am using the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. You should apply the cement to both parts where they will come in contact with each other. This cement is acetone based and melts the top layer of plastic. This melted plastic will quickly harden back up if you do not stick the parts together right away. You only need a very small amount of glue. It is not the glue that holds the parts together but the melted plastic bonding together. It will make for a very strong joint.

Step 7: Filling Gaps

After you've glued your parts together you may have some gaps in them. I use Tamiya fine white putty for small gaps as seen in the picture. I use a 2 part epoxy filler called Milliput to fill in large gaps. Apply the putty of the seam and make sure to press it into the gap. Once dried, you can sand it down flush to the model and it will make it look a lot better.

Step 8: Mounting Small Parts for Painting

On most builds you will want to keep a certain part held down for painting. It is often hard to paint a small part by holding it with your fingers so I mount the part on an unused sprue stick. You should first make sure that the plastic used is safe to burn. Typically a leaflet will be included in the model box indicating if it is safe to burn the plastic or not. Once you are ready just hold the sprue stick over a lighter or candle until the stick catches fire. Quickly blow out the flame and stick your part onto the end of the stick. Be careful with extremely small parts because this will warp and melt those parts when you stick them on the melted sprue stick. Plan ahead where you are going to mount the part because paint will not cover that area. Here I mounted the figure by the bottom of his foot because it will not be visible.

Step 9: Getting Ready for Paint

For the actual build, use the steps I've mentioned above and follow along with the model instructions. When you are done building you should have a model that looks like this. An unpainted plastic representation of your subject.

This is where painting begins. You should paint in a well ventilated area. Wear a respirator, this paint is dangerous.

Step 10: Priming

A good primer for model making should be used. Model primer is usually much finer particles than regular paint primer. I use Tamiya primer because it dries very quickly and gases out fast. Gassing out is when the propellant used to shoot the paint out of a can is still fused in the wet paint. The gas slowly rises to the surface of the paint as it dries and leaves the paint. You do not want to paint on anything that is still gassing out. If the primer does not have a completely flat dull finish then it is not ready to be painted on.

To properly apply primer you want to swirl the cam, not shake it. This will prevent bubbles in your primer. The key to spraying paint and primer is to hover your can pointing away from the model, start shooting paint out, pass over the model as it is shooting paint out, and then cease shooting paint once the spray is no longer over the model. Spray only small layers at a time and let each layer dry. Do not spray the model until it is soaking wet. This goes back to the gassing out and it will cause gas to get trapped under the paint surface. This is what causes the bubbles.

Step 11: Base Coat Paint.

If you are brush painting, skip this step.

For spray can and airbrush users, you will want to spray a basecoat. This basecoat should be darker than the color you want to actually paint your model. Make sure to hit all the small nooks and crannies because this will be your shadow. A scale model is too small to produce a realistic shadow so you will use this base coat to help. Again, spray in small layers and let each dry. Slowly build up your paint.

Step 12: Paint

Now you can paint the actual color of the model. Use the same technique of layering as above. You should let the base coat uncovered in small spaces to represent a shadow. Allow this to dry completely for the next step.

Step 13: Decals

On tank models I don't find a need for clear coat so I have skipped it. You can add one if you want.

Its time for decals. Using scissors cut out the called for decal. Try and cut close to the edge of the graphics. You don't want to stick the whole decal sheet in the water, I've seen new modelers do this and you'll end up with a bunch of decals all over the place. Go one decal at a time. Use tweezers to hold the decal, dip it once into the water and then let it sit for 30-60 seconds (sit on a dry surface, not in the water). This will activate the decal glue. If you let it soak in water then the glue will disintegrate and your decal will not stick. Make sure the area you are applying it to is smooth and wet the paint a little with a cue tip soaked in water. Then simply take your decal and slide it off onto the place you want it to go. I use a dry cue tip to help slide it off the decal paper. Do not rub your decal down but rather roll over it with a cue tip. Decals are easy to tear and rolling is less likely to rip it. Let the decals dry for a day.

Step 14: Weathering

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My favorite part.

Weathering is where you scale model becomes real. Weathering is super easy and fun and will make your model realistic.

To imitate shadows and dirt, I use an oil paint that is dark brown. Oil paint takes a long time to dry and is very easy to rub off with a rag. Just liberally apply it like in the second picture. Take your rag and wipe it off. You'll get a darker and dirtier appearance.

Dry brushing is also a fun part of weathering. Dip a dry brush into your paint and then wipe as much paint off as you can. Then you scrape raised edges such as the take tracks show and you'll get micro scratches and dust as an effect.

Step 15: Finished

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Once you follow these steps you should come out with a nice looking model done very easy. Thanks!

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yourdigitalmarketingguru-blog · 7 years

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How to Refurbish the Shutters

The most common and most used shutters are vinyl and wooden shutters. Vinyl shutters are long lasting and strong as compared to wooden shutters. Wooden shutters are not that stiff and sturdy. Unlike vinyl shutters, wooden shutters need frequent maintenance and repair to keep them serving the purpose. Vinyl shutters loose color over time and need to repaint before more damage is done to the surface.

Shutters are important part of your home and add glare to your home appearance. But due to exposure to direct sunlight and environmental factors, they tend to fade away in color and often worn. At this point they need immediate consideration to restore the lost strength and shape.

Required Items

- Auto filler - Bucket - Exterior latex paint - Exterior latex primer - 150-grit sandpaper - Paintbrush - Phillips head screwdriver - Sawhorses - Scrub brush - Trisodium phosphate

Steps

Vinyl Shutters

1. Shutters are usually attached to the siding with four or six Philips head screws. Unfasten the screws with Philips head screwdriver. Begin with the bottom screws and

2. Remove the shutters. The shutters are secured to the siding with four or six Phillips head screws. Start with the bottom screws and work your way to the top. Place the screws in a container and mark each shutter on the back to help you remember where it goes.

3. Assemble two sawhorses under a shady area, if you are working outside. Shady area will help to get the required results from painting.

4. Next step is to clean the shutters. Take Trisodium Phosphate (TSP), available at most hardware stores. Put the required amount of TSP in the water and add desirable amount of water to it. You can add chlorine as well in case your shutters have the signs of mildew. Rub off the debris and dirt from the shutter surface with scrub brush. Toothbrush can be handy to work on cracks and corners.

5. Sand the surface of the shutter gently with 15-grit sandpaper.

6. Put the shutter on the saw horse and apply exterior latex primer to the shutter surface. To avoid mildew, you can add mildew-cide to the primer as well. Using roller or paint brush, apply latex primer to the surface of the shutter properly. Cut in all the areas and edges of the shutter with paint brush, because roller cannot reach each and every part of the surface. Let the primer before proceed with paint.

7. Once the primer gets dry, apply paint to the shutter. Use exterior latex paint to coat the surface of the shutter. Properly apply paint to entire surface. Once finished, make certain that no area left unpainted. Let the paint dry before reassembly the shutter to its place.

Wooden Shutters

1. Arrange two sawhorses and take the shutters away from the house.

2. Make a solution of Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) and warm water. Clean the shutters with this solution. Take a scrub brush and rub off the debris and other dirt accumulated on the shutters surface. Wash with clean water afterward.

3. Now take a small quantity of auto filler and putty knife. Apply the auto filler to the damaged area on the shutter with the help of putty knife. Try to make the surface as smooth as possible with putty knife. However, you still get a heap of auto filler.

4. To make the surface of the shutter properly smooth, sand the patched area. You need to use 150-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface.

5. Apply latex primer on the exterior side of the shutter. Leave the primer to dry. Later, paint the shutter surface with exterior latex paint and let it air dry for an hour or so or the time mentioned in manual.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4759938

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aliceklem · 8 years

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Top 13 Paint Stripping Tools: Which One Is The Best Paint Scraper?

If you are on verge of painting your home or fence, or door, etc. you might need to look it more graceful and shining than ever before. This is only possible if your new layer of paint deposits evenly and smoothly. However, before you include another one, the old material must be expelled.

This where the paint scraper comes in but what is exactly the best paint scraper? is it a putty knifes or electric paint stripping machine. The paint scraper is the most important tool in painting work for expelling the residual old paint and clearing the loose surface layerings so that new paint receives a solid hold from the surface.

Paint striping tools such as Paint scrapers and its other variant which goes by the name “Putty Knife” or “Putty Scraper”, are essential tools to keep before starting any paint works.

Best Paint Scraper: Putty Knife vs Electric Paint Remover

Brand

Product Name

Rank

Size

Quality

Price

Overall

Price

Red Devil

Painter's 6-In-1-Tool

2.5"

Check Price

Red Devil

1.5-Inch Flex Putty Knife

1.5"

B+

Check Price

Stanley

1-1/4-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife

1-1.4"

B+

Check Price

Warner

Warner Putty Knife

Check Price

TEKTON

TEKTON Putty Knife

Check Price

Decorating Direct

Floor Scraper with blade

200mm

Check Price

Hyde Tools

Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

Check Price

Craftsman

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

1-1.2"

Check Price

Paint Shaver

Paint Shaver Pro

n/a

$$$$

Check Price

Bahco

Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

#10

n/a

$$$

Check Price

Festool

Festool ROTEX

#11

n/a

$$$

Check Price

Metabo

11,000 RPM 6.4-Amp Paint Stripper with Case

#12

$$$

Check Price

Wagner

PaintEater

#13

n/a

Check Price

Quick Navigation

Red Devil Putty Knife

Stanley Putty Knife

Warner Putty Knife

TEKTON Putty Knife

Floor Scraper with blade

Hyde Tools Scraper Kit

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

Paint Shaver Pro

Bahco Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

Festool ROTEX

Metabo LF724S Paint Stripper

Wagner 0513040 PaintEater

Paint scrapers are available in simple blade form as well as in more powerful electric motor powered versions. Finding the best paint scraper tools is not an easy task for you if you have no previous experience in this field.

Moreover, these things are material and surface based so you need to pick the appropriate apparatus for perfect paintwork.We've made a list of top paint scraper tools to help you take care of business with significantly less exertion. Let’s have a look

Best Paint Remover Reviews

Red Devil Putty Knife

Red Devil 4251 Painter's 6-In-1-Tool

Check Price

The RedDevil is the best paint scraper and it is a 6-in-1 featured paint scraper which allows you to scrape, repair, refinishing, putty or paint remover. Also, it is very handy and you can use it as a roller cleaner. As you can see the picture above, it has curves, points, flats, and you can use it for multiple purposes.

The size is small and it can fit in your pocket. This putty knife is designed for easiness and safeties. The blade is made of high-quality steel which prevents the rust. In additional, it can be used for setting drywall nails and other hammering jobs. It's absolutely a professional tool.

Flex Putty Knife

Check Price

The Red Devil Flex Putty Knife is a strong and flexible putty knife. Many people love it because its both flexible, strong and edge quality putty knife. You can use it to apply caulk on door frames.

Stanley Putty Knife

Stanley 28-140 1-1/4-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife

This paint scraper is used for tripping paint and it feel sturdy with the handle. It is designed to scrape all the sticky paint on wall or door frames and best of all, you can clean it easily. Stanley Putty Knife is a smart choice for every paint scraper.

Luxury Design with Shiny Nylon Handle

Awesome Quality with Really Strong Blade

Use It for Paint Scraping

Can Scrape Dried Epoxy Off

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Warner Putty Knife

Warner 10018 Tool 2-Inch Carbide 100X Soft Grip Scraper with Knob

This paint scraper component a carbide sharp edge for that will be usable for quite a while without going dull. A similar scraper can be utilized for both scratching surfaces and wiping paint off windows. It has a delicate handle, which I truly acknowledge, for administrator comfort. In the meantime, they've put a handle over the business end of the device for two gave scratching in extreme circumstances.

Warner is a paint-apparatus expert, and it truly appears in the outline and craftsmanship of their tools.

Used for scratching surfaces and wiping paint off

Diamond-ground edges

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

TEKTON Putty Knife

TEKTON 69275 3-Inch Flex Putty Knife

This is a 3-Inch Flex Putty Knife utilized for topping off the openings and splits on the surface for making it even and plane. This putty blade is one of the best out there with its basic design and handling technique. Nothing amiss with these little units by any stretch of the imagination and a flat out need if your work has a bigger number of holes and picture nail openings.

It's a best stainless steel putty in the market.

Flex Putty Knife

Coated tempered steel blade

Contoured hardwood handle

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Floor Scraper with blade

200 mm Floor Scraper with blade via Decorating Direct

This is likewise included among the best apparatuses out there. It is fundamental for evacuating contamination, including oil, dirt, fat etc. and cleaning and preparing floors, expelling chipping and free floor paint by scratching, its stainless-steel head is compatible with any estimated wooden sweeper handle with one of a kind quick release clamping.

This is fitted with 200mm (8 inches) replaceable sprung steel edge. It can without a doubt be your best alternative to deal with.

Oil Base

Very Good In Quality

Hyde Tools Scraper Kit

Hyde Tools 10450 Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

Hyde Tools is another paint-related apparatus expert. It is a well know glazing knife among the experts. despite the fact that the vast majority don’t have much use for a form scraper. Be that as it may, on the off chance that you ever take a shot at turned wood railings, furniture, moldings, or Victorian homes, you will certainly require one.

These are somewhat elusive, yet unquestionably worth searching for. I think Hyde produces the best shape scraper around with a decent gathering of amazing stainless steel sharp edges.

Ideal for scraping, painting, and drywall applications

Elegant and smooth finish

Hyde Tools 10450 Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

How to select the right putty knife for your project?

youtube

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

Craftsman Putty Knife via Craftsman

It is the best putty knife for a great many people. There are three fundamental things that make this putty cut awesome: The 1½-inch width is ideal for filling little gaps; the stainless-steel sharp edge won't rust and can be effectively cleaned, and the handle is long and extremely delightful. It handles truly separates this blade from the rest.

While the handles on other putty blades are, blocky or made of hard plastic, the Craftsman's is pleasantly molded to fit the hand and a rubbery cushioning makes utilizing it considerably more friendly. Its long length likewise offers the best influence to truly smooth putty into a nail opening or split. Preparing a space for painting can take hours, so we truly valued these convenience highlights.

Ideal for scraping, painting, and drywall applications.

Non-rust stainless steel blade

Paint Shaver Pro

Paint Stripping/Lead Paint Removal Tools via PaintShaver

This device is by a long shot the speediest approach to expel paint. It is a motor-powered variant of simple blade scrapers. It doesn't squint at various layers of paint and self-control through anything that comes in its way. I can strip a band or bit of siding free of all its paint in seconds with next to no exertion. With incredible power comes extraordinary duty.

There is a really soak expectation to absorb information with this device. It will require a lot of scrap pieces to hone on and get the apparatus balanced appropriately to the correct profundity of cut before beginning work on pieces that you think about. You can without much of a stretch gouge wood surfaces with this intense instrument so ensure you are prepared before you utilize it.

Tidy accumulation is astounding when snared to a capable shop vac. On the off chance that you have bunches of square footage to strip this is the approach no ifs and's or buts. This instrument will cost you a pretty penny, yet since the power from this device originates from a standard edge processor, you can purchase a point processor independently and afterward buy the paint shaver head connections on eBay to get a similar apparatus setup at around 60% of the retail cost.

Fast Paint and Lead Paint Removal

Easy to use and carry

Before Stripping Shingles

stripping shingles before

After Stripping Shingles

Bahco Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

Bahco 665 Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper, 2-1/2"

The Snapon BAHCO 665 carbide edge paint Scraper elements a two-segment handle that gives better grasp and solace amid utilization. The scraper finds itself useful for wide range of surfaces as a paint remover, paste, mortar, and grout. The Bahco scraper head is intended to remove a wide range of material evacuation when additional quality is required in painting This model scraper accompanies a major plastic handle for two-gave operation for substantial obligation utilize.

It is 12 crawls long, and the cutting edges remain sharp up to 50 times longer than customary steel edges.The Bahco premium ergonomic carbide scraper is proposed for substantial obligation applications and is perfect for wide material evacuation when additional quality is required.

The durable carbide sharp edge permits you to rub wood, metal, and concrete, rapidly and proficiently evacuating paint, stick, varnish, rust, and the sky is the limit from there. The 2-segment handle gives you better hold and included solace; the thin lined front end gives you expanded scratching access when working in limited spaces.

This scraper likewise includes a vast plastic handle for more agreeable two-gave operation, making it an extraordinary instrument for substantial obligation utilize when scratching expansive regions. This scraper accompanies a 2-1/2-inch replaceable sharp edge furthermore promptly acknowledges 2-inch edges. The instrument measures 12-1/10 -by- 4-2/5 -by- 3-1/2 inches (LxHxW) wide.

This scraper accompanies a holster for advantageous pocket or belt stockpiling and is sponsored by a lifetime constrained guarantee.

Stay Sharp Up To 50 Times Longer

Two-component handle provides better grip

Bahco 625 Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper, 1", with Plastic Holder

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Festool ROTEX

Festool 571810 RO 150 FEQ Rotex Sander

After my involvement with the Festool RAS 115, I chose to give Festool another shot. This time I was exceptionally inspired. The ROTEX 150 is the Mac-Daddy of rotating sanders. This child has a 6″ head and works in either full revolving mode (like the RAS 115) or irregular circle mode for less forceful sanding.

The tidy gathering on the ROTEX 150 is exceptionally powerful also. It's not exactly as perfect as the ProScraper, but rather I didn't have any airborne tidy in the shop once I began utilizing this huge kid. This thing is so effective we've even utilized this to revamp little zones of hardwood floors! The drawback of the ROTEX 150 is that like most sanders it hinders when it experiences substantial paint develop.

Much else besides a couple of layers of paint and you'll be changing sandpaper throughout the day, particularly if the paint is still sticky and not decades old. This device falls some place in the middle of the Silent Paint Remover and RAS 115 as far as speed. The way that it is a paint expulsion device, as well as one astounding sander makes it worth to extra cost.

Eccentric motion for high-quality

Scratch-free surfaces

youtube

Festool Rotex RO 150 Sanding To A Polish via Austin DenHerder

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Metabo LF724S Paint Stripper

Metabo LF724S 3-1/7-Inch 11,000 RPM 6.4-Amp Paint Stripper with Case

Metabo LF724S is a great machine which can remove paint and varnish from many type of wooden surfaces effectively. It is designed to save your time from using handy tools like putty knife. The speed to do this stripping job is seventy percent faster than common methods.

The Metabo LF724S is technically enviromently friendly and it comes with:

4 reversible carbide blades

An extraction connector

Adjusting wrench with handle

Combo-spanner and a Carry case.

You can click on the video below to see how it work.

youtube

Metabo LF 724 Paint Remover via MilesToolMachinery

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Wagner 0513040 PaintEater

Wagner PaintEater is gentle on surfaces and very tough on paint. Many people say it's better than the hand scraper like putty knife. It is much faster than sanding and have great result. It's lightweight and time saving. It's good for less-intense project.

Wagner PaintEater is better than the hand scraper and work on exterior brick walls. Basically, here is what it does:

Remove Paint Quickly

It Has Replacable Disc which means you can re-use it.

Work on simple or less-intense project

It's Lightweight So Anyone can use it.

Work great like sander basically.

You can click on the video below to see how it work.

youtube

Metabo LF 724 Paint Remover via MilesToolMachinery

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

The post Top 13 Paint Stripping Tools: Which One Is The Best Paint Scraper? appeared first on Luxury Home Stuff.

source https://www.luxuryhomestuff.com/best-paint-scraper/ from Luxury Home Stuff http://luxuryhomestuff1.blogspot.com/2017/02/top-13-paint-stripping-tools-which-one.html

0 notes

junecoppinger · 8 years

Text

Top 13 Paint Stripping Tools: Which One Is The Best Paint Scraper?

Paint striping tools such as Paint scrapers and its other variant which goes by the name “Putty Knife” or “Putty Scraper”, are essential tools to keep before starting any paint works.

Best Paint Scraper: Putty Knife vs Electric Paint Remover

Brand

Product Name

Rank

Size

Quality

Price

Overall

Price

Red Devil

Painter’s 6-In-1-Tool

2.5"

Check Price

Red Devil

1.5-Inch Flex Putty Knife

1.5"

B+

Check Price

Stanley

1-¼-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife

1-1.4"

B+

Check Price

Warner

Warner Putty Knife

Check Price

TEKTON

TEKTON Putty Knife

Check Price

Decorating Direct

Floor Scraper with blade

200mm

Check Price

Hyde Tools

Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

Check Price

Craftsman

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

1-1.2"

Check Price

Paint Shaver

Paint Shaver Pro

n/a

$$$$

Check Price

Bahco

Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

#10

n/a

$$$

Check Price

Festool

Festool ROTEX

#11

n/a

$$$

Check Price

Metabo

11,000 RPM 6.4-Amp Paint Stripper with Case

#12

$$$

Check Price

Wagner

PaintEater

#13

n/a

Check Price

Quick Navigation

Red Devil Putty Knife

Stanley Putty Knife

Warner Putty Knife

TEKTON Putty Knife

Floor Scraper with blade

Hyde Tools Scraper Kit

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

Paint Shaver Pro

Bahco Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

Festool ROTEX

Metabo LF724S Paint Stripper

Wagner 0513040 PaintEater

Moreover, these things are material and surface based so you need to pick the appropriate apparatus for perfect paintwork.We’ve made a list of top paint scraper tools to help you take care of business with significantly less exertion. Let’s have a look

Best Paint Remover Reviews

Red Devil Putty Knife

Red Devil 4251 Painter’s 6-In-1-Tool

Check Price

Flex Putty Knife

Check Price

The Red Devil Flex Putty Knife is a strong and flexible putty knife. Many people love it because its both flexible, strong and edge quality putty knife. You can use it to apply caulk on door frames.

Stanley Putty Knife

Stanley 28-140 1-¼-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife

Luxury Design with Shiny Nylon Handle

Awesome Quality with Really Strong Blade

Use It for Paint Scraping

Can Scrape Dried Epoxy Off

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Warner Putty Knife

Warner 10018 Tool 2-Inch Carbide 100X Soft Grip Scraper with Knob

This paint scraper component a carbide sharp edge for that will be usable for quite a while without going dull. A similar scraper can be utilized for both scratching surfaces and wiping paint off windows. It has a delicate handle, which I truly acknowledge, for administrator comfort. In the meantime, they’ve put a handle over the business end of the device for two gave scratching in extreme circumstances.

Warner is a paint-apparatus expert, and it truly appears in the outline and craftsmanship of their tools.

Used for scratching surfaces and wiping paint off

Diamond-ground edges

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

TEKTON Putty Knife

TEKTON 69275 3-Inch Flex Putty Knife

It’s a best stainless steel putty in the market.

Flex Putty Knife

Coated tempered steel blade

Contoured hardwood handle

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Floor Scraper with blade

200 mm Floor Scraper with blade via Decorating Direct

This is fitted with 200mm (8 inches) replaceable sprung steel edge. It can without a doubt be your best alternative to deal with.

Oil Base

Very Good In Quality

Hyde Tools Scraper Kit

Hyde Tools 10450 Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

These are somewhat elusive, yet unquestionably worth searching for. I think Hyde produces the best shape scraper around with a decent gathering of amazing stainless steel sharp edges.

Ideal for scraping, painting, and drywall applications

Elegant and smooth finish

Hyde Tools 10450 Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

How to select the right putty knife for your project?

youtube

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

Craftsman Putty Knife via Craftsman

It is the best putty knife for a great many people. There are three fundamental things that make this putty cut awesome: The 1½-inch width is ideal for filling little gaps; the stainless-steel sharp edge won’t rust and can be effectively cleaned, and the handle is long and extremely delightful. It handles truly separates this blade from the rest.

While the handles on other putty blades are, blocky or made of hard plastic, the Craftsman’s is pleasantly molded to fit the hand and a rubbery cushioning makes utilizing it considerably more friendly. Its long length likewise offers the best influence to truly smooth putty into a nail opening or split. Preparing a space for painting can take hours, so we truly valued these convenience highlights.

Ideal for scraping, painting, and drywall applications.

Non-rust stainless steel blade

Paint Shaver Pro

Paint Stripping/Lead Paint Removal Tools via PaintShaver

This device is by a long shot the speediest approach to expel paint. It is a motor-powered variant of simple blade scrapers. It doesn’t squint at various layers of paint and self-control through anything that comes in its way. I can strip a band or bit of siding free of all its paint in seconds with next to no exertion. With incredible power comes extraordinary duty.

Tidy accumulation is astounding when snared to a capable shop vac. On the off chance that you have bunches of square footage to strip this is the approach no ifs and’s or buts. This instrument will cost you a pretty penny, yet since the power from this device originates from a standard edge processor, you can purchase a point processor independently and afterward buy the paint shaver head connections on eBay to get a similar apparatus setup at around 60% of the retail cost.

Fast Paint and Lead Paint Removal

Easy to use and carry

Before Stripping Shingles

stripping shingles before

After Stripping Shingles

Bahco Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

Bahco 665 Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper, 2-½"

This scraper likewise includes a vast plastic handle for more agreeable two-gave operation, making it an extraordinary instrument for substantial obligation utilize when scratching expansive regions. This scraper accompanies a 2-½-inch replaceable sharp edge furthermore promptly acknowledges 2-inch edges. The instrument measures 12-1/10 -by- 4-2/5 -by- 3-½ inches (LxHxW) wide.

This scraper accompanies a holster for advantageous pocket or belt stockpiling and is sponsored by a lifetime constrained guarantee.

Stay Sharp Up To 50 Times Longer

Two-component handle provides better grip

Bahco 625 Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper, 1", with Plastic Holder

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Festool ROTEX

Festool 571810 RO 150 FEQ Rotex Sander

The tidy gathering on the ROTEX 150 is exceptionally powerful also. It’s not exactly as perfect as the ProScraper, but rather I didn’t have any airborne tidy in the shop once I began utilizing this huge kid. This thing is so effective we’ve even utilized this to revamp little zones of hardwood floors! The drawback of the ROTEX 150 is that like most sanders it hinders when it experiences substantial paint develop.

Much else besides a couple of layers of paint and you’ll be changing sandpaper throughout the day, particularly if the paint is still sticky and not decades old. This device falls some place in the middle of the Silent Paint Remover and RAS 115 as far as speed. The way that it is a paint expulsion device, as well as one astounding sander makes it worth to extra cost.

Eccentric motion for high-quality

Scratch-free surfaces

youtube

Festool Rotex RO 150 Sanding To A Polish via Austin DenHerder

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Metabo LF724S Paint Stripper

Metabo LF724S 3-1/7-Inch 11,000 RPM 6.4-Amp Paint Stripper with Case

The Metabo LF724S is technically enviromently friendly and it comes with:

4 reversible carbide blades

An extraction connector

Adjusting wrench with handle

Combo-spanner and a Carry case.

You can click on the video below to see how it work.

youtube

Metabo LF 724 Paint Remover via MilesToolMachinery

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Wagner 0513040 PaintEater

Wagner PaintEater is gentle on surfaces and very tough on paint. Many people say it’s better than the hand scraper like putty knife. It is much faster than sanding and have great result. It’s lightweight and time saving. It’s good for less-intense project.

Wagner PaintEater is better than the hand scraper and work on exterior brick walls. Basically, here is what it does:

Remove Paint Quickly

It Has Replacable Disc which means you can re-use it.

Work on simple or less-intense project

It’s Lightweight So Anyone can use it.

Work great like sander basically.

You can click on the video below to see how it work.

youtube

Metabo LF 724 Paint Remover via MilesToolMachinery

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

The post Top 13 Paint Stripping Tools: Which One Is The Best Paint Scraper? appeared first on Luxury Home Stuff.

from Luxury Home Stuff https://www.luxuryhomestuff.com/best-paint-scraper/ from Luxury Home Stuff https://luxuryhomestuff1.tumblr.com/post/156759313549

0 notes

luxuryhomestuff1 · 8 years

Text

Top 13 Paint Stripping Tools: Which One Is The Best Paint Scraper?

Paint striping tools such as Paint scrapers and its other variant which goes by the name “Putty Knife” or “Putty Scraper”, are essential tools to keep before starting any paint works.

Best Paint Scraper: Putty Knife vs Electric Paint Remover

Brand

Product Name

Rank

Size

Quality

Price

Overall

Price

Red Devil

Painter's 6-In-1-Tool

2.5"

Check Price

Red Devil

1.5-Inch Flex Putty Knife

1.5"

B+

Check Price

Stanley

1-1/4-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife

1-1.4"

B+

Check Price

Warner

Warner Putty Knife

Check Price

TEKTON

TEKTON Putty Knife

Check Price

Decorating Direct

Floor Scraper with blade

200mm

Check Price

Hyde Tools

Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

Check Price

Craftsman

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

1-1.2"

Check Price

Paint Shaver

Paint Shaver Pro

n/a

$$$$

Check Price

Bahco

Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

#10

n/a

$$$

Check Price

Festool

Festool ROTEX

#11

n/a

$$$

Check Price

Metabo

11,000 RPM 6.4-Amp Paint Stripper with Case

#12

$$$

Check Price

Wagner

PaintEater

#13

n/a

Check Price

Quick Navigation

Red Devil Putty Knife

Stanley Putty Knife

Warner Putty Knife

TEKTON Putty Knife

Floor Scraper with blade

Hyde Tools Scraper Kit

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

Paint Shaver Pro

Bahco Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

Festool ROTEX

Metabo LF724S Paint Stripper

Wagner 0513040 PaintEater

Best Paint Remover Reviews

Red Devil Putty Knife

Red Devil 4251 Painter's 6-In-1-Tool

Check Price

Flex Putty Knife

Check Price

The Red Devil Flex Putty Knife is a strong and flexible putty knife. Many people love it because its both flexible, strong and edge quality putty knife. You can use it to apply caulk on door frames.

Stanley Putty Knife

Stanley 28-140 1-1/4-Inch Nylon Handle Stiff Blade Putty Knife

Luxury Design with Shiny Nylon Handle

Awesome Quality with Really Strong Blade

Use It for Paint Scraping

Can Scrape Dried Epoxy Off

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Warner Putty Knife

Warner 10018 Tool 2-Inch Carbide 100X Soft Grip Scraper with Knob

Warner is a paint-apparatus expert, and it truly appears in the outline and craftsmanship of their tools.

Used for scratching surfaces and wiping paint off

Diamond-ground edges

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

TEKTON Putty Knife

TEKTON 69275 3-Inch Flex Putty Knife

It's a best stainless steel putty in the market.

Flex Putty Knife

Coated tempered steel blade

Contoured hardwood handle

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Floor Scraper with blade

200 mm Floor Scraper with blade via Decorating Direct

This is fitted with 200mm (8 inches) replaceable sprung steel edge. It can without a doubt be your best alternative to deal with.

Oil Base

Very Good In Quality

Hyde Tools Scraper Kit

Hyde Tools 10450 Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

These are somewhat elusive, yet unquestionably worth searching for. I think Hyde produces the best shape scraper around with a decent gathering of amazing stainless steel sharp edges.

Ideal for scraping, painting, and drywall applications

Elegant and smooth finish

Hyde Tools 10450 Contour Scraper with 6 Changeable Blades

How to select the right putty knife for your project?

youtube

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Craftsman Stainless Putty Knife

Craftsman Putty Knife via Craftsman

Ideal for scraping, painting, and drywall applications.

Non-rust stainless steel blade

Paint Shaver Pro

Paint Stripping/Lead Paint Removal Tools via PaintShaver

Fast Paint and Lead Paint Removal

Easy to use and carry

Before Stripping Shingles

stripping shingles before

After Stripping Shingles

Bahco Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper

Bahco 665 Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper, 2-1/2"

This scraper accompanies a holster for advantageous pocket or belt stockpiling and is sponsored by a lifetime constrained guarantee.

Stay Sharp Up To 50 Times Longer

Two-component handle provides better grip

Bahco 625 Premium Ergonomic Carbide Scraper, 1", with Plastic Holder

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Festool ROTEX

Festool 571810 RO 150 FEQ Rotex Sander

Eccentric motion for high-quality

Scratch-free surfaces

youtube

Festool Rotex RO 150 Sanding To A Polish via Austin DenHerder

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Metabo LF724S Paint Stripper

Metabo LF724S 3-1/7-Inch 11,000 RPM 6.4-Amp Paint Stripper with Case

The Metabo LF724S is technically enviromently friendly and it comes with:

4 reversible carbide blades

An extraction connector

Adjusting wrench with handle

Combo-spanner and a Carry case.

You can click on the video below to see how it work.

youtube

Metabo LF 724 Paint Remover via MilesToolMachinery

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

Wagner 0513040 PaintEater

Wagner PaintEater is better than the hand scraper and work on exterior brick walls. Basically, here is what it does:

Remove Paint Quickly

It Has Replacable Disc which means you can re-use it.

Work on simple or less-intense project

It's Lightweight So Anyone can use it.

Work great like sander basically.

You can click on the video below to see how it work.

youtube

Metabo LF 724 Paint Remover via MilesToolMachinery

Check Out Best Price On Amazon

The post Top 13 Paint Stripping Tools: Which One Is The Best Paint Scraper? appeared first on Luxury Home Stuff.

from Luxury Home Stuff https://www.luxuryhomestuff.com/best-paint-scraper/

0 notes