How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb drivers#
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb upgrade#
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb windows 10#
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb android#
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb software#
I find this sort of total none logic fault rectifying very exasperating, as is the 'switch it off then back on again' ploy - which worryingly works quite often.Īs someone wrote many years ago regarding Microsoft, 'would you buy a car which when the engine failed to start could be cured by adjusting the wing mirrors' ? I didn't bother with loading Magician as it's just as easy to cut and paste stuff over as I wish. but why did Windows not have the ability to diagnose this as my Sony tablet had done?
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb windows 10#
I then plugged it back into Windows 10 where it was instantly recognized by my PC and appeared in my drive list. It immediately came up with 'drive corrupt' requires formatting click here, which I did.
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb android#
I tried various fixes then plugged the SSD into my Sony Android tablet. The Samsung was listed in Device Manager but not in My PC drives list. I had a problem with Windows 10 versus Samsung SSD 850. I'm an average 72 year old used to nuts and bolts so this technology is most exasperating. V2.7 came with the drive but the latest is V3.0// In the end I upgraded Samsung Data Migration app from their website and everything worked fine. It was very frustrating and there's are many suggestions out here. Is there anyone who have had solved such problem with installing windows 10 on a brand new Samsung 850 EVO SSD? I am not that technologic but with clear instructions from internet I have fixed some problems.
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb drivers#
I've update all the chipset drivers om my PC without solving the problem. I thought it was so easy, just plug in - run - clone - change harddrive, but it is giving me head ache. Att this I have tried with the SSD connected through SATA to USB 3 externally on PC. In BIOS ACHI is activated and the SSD doesn't appear in BIOS.
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb software#
I wanted to clone the OS partition/system but Samsung software (Magician and Data transfer manager) can't find the SSD. I bought a Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SSD with a USB 3-SATA cable (came included in the SSD box). Unfortunaly I started updating Windows to Windows 10 and I can't downgrade to Windows 7.
#How to format samsung ssd 850 evo 250gb upgrade#
I am about to upgrade my Asus EeeBox EB1501p with more RAM and a SSD. Too basic questions, but I want to learn. Can it easily be recognised if connected internally? How will I connect it? Do I need to unplug the current HHD and use its port for the SSD? I yes, how can I clone that HHD if it's unplugged from the motherboard? I have read people comment on connecting the SSD internally through SATA II and a power cable. In the thread you mention they seem to have solved the problem with earlier windows, not Windows 10.ĭo you think it is worth trying other cloning software (instead of Samsung Data Migration and Magician) even when the SSD is not recognised in windows explorer or BIOS? The SATA- USB 3-cable I used came with the EVO SSD. Once you've SE'd the drive you can then run the data migration program." If Samsung Magician recognizes the drive then Secure Erase it to restore it to a fresh-out-of-the-box condition. Http /" Remove the SSD from the enclosure and connect it to your laptop with the cable that came with it and then run Samsung Magician and see if it recognizes the drive. Try following the instructions provided by the answerer: I would rather be using Samsungs dedicated software as it includes various optimisation tools (and probably most importantly, firmware updating - I think I am correct in saying this).Ī similar problem appears here for the 840 Evo. My plan is to format my ssd once the Samsung migration software has been updated to accommodate windows 10 and start all over again (for now I have windows 10 on both my ssd and hdd). And once finished move the documents back onto your secondary hdd. Simple to get around if you have an external harddrive to back up your documents, then clone everything that is left (OS etc). The samsung migration/magician tool apparently lets you select what you want to move (helpful if you are keeping a secondary hdd like myself to store docs and pics etc). It seems ok but as far as I can see you can't select what you want to migrate, it's all or nothing. Therefore I used Macrium Reflect (free version did it for me). I thought about waiting until Samsung updated their migration software - but I am far too impatient for that. I had exactly the same problem as you (same samsung ssd, already installed windows 10 etc).
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How to Make High Quality Gifs
A few people have asked me for a gif tutorial, so here we go! As a disclaimer, there are many parts of gif-making that are subjective, and this is just my personal process/preferences. If anyone is confused about a particular step, or wants more in-depth info about something, just message me!
Tools:
✧Laptop/computer
✧Adobe Photoshop 2024
✧External Hard Drive (mine is 250GB)
✧Video Downloader (I use the Video Downloadhelper extension on Firefox)
PHASE ONE: Make Animated Gif
1. Download high quality video
This is very important! You should download the highest quality of the video you can find. I use the free Video DownloadHelper extension on Firefox, but it doesn't download audio sometimes (it could be me not using it properly, or they want you to pay to get audio). No audio is fine for gifs, but if I'm doing a video edit, I either need to record the audio separately with Quicktime or use a free online downloader for youtube, twitter, or instagram videos.
For this gif, I downloaded an HD interview from the F1 website with the Video DownloadHelper extension on Firefox.
Tip: Make sure your video file is an .mp4 -> photoshop can struggle with .mov files bc they're larger
2. Import: Video Frames to Layers...
File -> Import -> Video Frames to Layers... -> Open your video -> Selected Video Range -> Make Frame Animation
If photoshop has to load a while to make the frames, it means you should select a smaller portion of the video to animate.
Tip: If you discover that there are duplicates of every frame or that there are way too many frames for the portion of video you want to gif, you may need to re-import and check the "Limit to Every _ Frames" box, and write in "2". This will import every other frame of the video and get rid of duplicates or too many frames.
Once your frames are imported, make sure you're working in the "Motion" workspace by going to the top to Window -> Workspace -> Motion.
Now, all your frames should appear at the bottom in the Timeline. Make sure that the box in the left corner is set to "Forever", and now it should play the frames and loop back to the beginning each time.
3. Choosing your frames
I usually aim for around 60 frames total for a gif, but sometimes I'll go under or over that number. This particular gif is 55 frames in total. In general, I want my gif to be around 3 seconds in length bc under that feels too short and over that starts to be a large file size. Totally subjective, though! (edit: I have started to experiment with up to 80 frames for some gifs, which comes out to about 4 sec.)
Play through your frames and if you want to delete some, select them and click on the trashcan icon, which you can see in the screenshot above. (If you don't delete them this way, you'll have issues later.)
4. Set Frame Delay
Once you're happy with your frames, select all of them and click on the part that says "0.02", then go to "Other..." I usually choose 0.05 or 0.06, to land my gif around 3 seconds, but it depends on the video and how many frames you have. This particular gif is set to 0.06 because it looked good and brought me to around 3 seconds.
You can always choose a delay and if you don't like it, go back and change it! Just do what looks good to you.
5. Convert to Video Timeline
Click on the symbol that looks like 4 lines stacked, and choose "Convert to Video Timeline". Now is usually when I play through the gif to see what the speed is looking like/if I like the frame delay and it's landing somewhere around 3 seconds. If not, you can just Undo and adjust anything when it's still in the frame animation stage.
Next, scroll through the Layers on the right side and delete any layers that don't have the "eye" symbol next to them -> these are frames you deleted in the frame animation stage, but they need to be deleted in the timeline stage as well. Lastly, select all your remaining layers (which should all have the "eye" symbol) so they're all highlighted.
6. Convert to Smart Object
With all layers selected, go to the top to Layer -> Smart Object -> Convert to Smart Object. Ta da! You have a gif.
I always make sure to save my file at this point (you can do it before, but it just depends on how fast you work). Remember to frequently save your progress while gif-making: sometimes, photoshop gets overwhelmed and quits while you're mid-color correction 🥲. You never want to start over from scratch...
Now, some people like to crop & resize their gifs first. Or do sharpening before color. Or color, resize, then sharpen. It's really up to you. The order I like to do is Color, Sharpen, Crop, Resize, Export.
PHASE TWO: Color & Sharpening
(the fun part!)
1. Brightness/Contrast
So here's where we start getting into the really subjective stuff. I always use the Brightness/Contrast and the Selective Color adjustment layers to do my coloring. I rarely touch the contrast bc that can be adjusted in selective color, but almost always, the gif needs overall brightening.
Tip: Even when I think a video looks bright to my eyes, sometimes I post the gif and they look dark once they're in the app. My advice is to always brighten a little bit, even when you don't think it's needed...
Here shows the very subtle shift in brightness I did for this gif. It can be a lot more intense depending on the video quality/lighting. The difference will also look a lot more stark after the color layer is applied.
2. Selective ColorNext is color. This is totally up to you and what looks good to your eyes. Make sure you have any software turned off that might change the color of your screen (like a nighttime filter or something that removes blue light).
I use selective color bc you can adjust the levels of cyan, magenta, yellow, and black in each color channel independently. This is how I adjust the specific color of red that Charles and Carlos wear, or the amount of cyan in the blacks, etc. The "Neutral" layer effects the whole image, so I'll sometimes add some yellow there if I'm wanting a warmer image, or I'll add or remove black to brighten or darken the mid-tones.
Just play around! Sometimes, I'll take the slider from +100 to -100 back and forth just to see what it's doing to the gif. And I frequently turn on and off the color layer to see what the gif looked like before and after color. (I've found that most F1 content is really magenta-skewed, which you may not even notice until you've corrected it out).
Above is Color vs. No Color.
It might look extreme to you presented this way, but when the whole gif is colored, no one questions it! As long as there's consistency across gifs, that's all that matters. I frequently copy and paste my adjustment layers onto another gif from the same interview/video so the look stays consistent.
Above is Color w/ Brightening vs. Without.
This gives you a better idea of how much of a difference that Brightness/Contrast layer makes.
3. Sharpening
I got my Sharpening routine of choice from this tutorial on gif-making. To be honest, I don't know if it's the best sharpening procedure bc I haven't taken the time to in-depth compare to other ways of doing it, but it looks good to me! So I've stuck with it. (edit: I've also added a Reduce Noise filter to my sharpening routine. But as always, just do what looks nice to you!)
I copy and past the sharpening from my other gifs onto new ones so I don't have to do all the steps again. There are quicker ways of doing this, like using quick actions and stuff, but how I do it is fast enough for me.
If you want to figure out your own Sharpening routine:
With the gif layer selected, go to the top to Filter -> Sharpen -> Smart Sharpen. It will bring up this window:
Here you can play around with the amount, radius, noise reduction, etc. and see what you like.
I also add a Gaussian Blur effect, which you'll find under Filter -> Blur -> Gaussian Blur.
^All of your Sharpen and Blur effects will stack up underneath your gif layer like this. To adjust the opacity of one of these effects, double click on its adjustment/slider symbol to the right, and it'll bring up the Blending Options window.
If there's any sharpening or blurring layer you don't like, you can easily drag it into the trashcan symbol to get rid of it.
Above is a visual of Sharpened vs. None.
You can really tell with the difference in the Snapdragon logo on either shoulder. But I also personally love how much more Carlos' eyes pop to me on the Sharpened side.
As you can see, it's up to your preference. Sometimes, I really love gifs I see that aren't sharp, but rather really smooth and almost painterly. It's up to the gif-maker!
PHASE THREE: Crop & Resize
1. Cropping
Go to the toolbar on the left and choose the Crop Tool. Above where it says "Ratio", you can choose from preset ratios that photoshop has, or you can make your own. I like to use the presets, or at the very least, clear numbers that you can apply to a whole gifset. Free transforming without a ratio makes it nearly impossible to maintain consistency across a gifset.
If it isn't already, uncheck "Delete Cropped Pixels". This will allow you to move the gif around inside the cropped area later if you want to adjust what's in frame. It also gives you the option to increase the frame later, if you want. You can also click the gear icon next to "Delete Cropped Pixels" and change how you view the gif during cropping.
When you're done, click the check mark or hit Enter. Now, you've got a cropped gif!
2. Resizing
Go to the top to Image -> Image Size...
Make sure you have Pixels selected. For the Resample tab, I have it set to Automatic here, but sometimes I'll use Bicubic smooth or sharpen, depending on what I'm doing. Here's a cool post that compares the different settings. Just experiment with it.
(edit: I no longer change the resolution to 150. I've found that increasing the resolution, and therefore the size, before ultimately resizing down to 540 px means you are compressing even more (the larger something is, the more it has to be compressed within 540 px). I now leave the resolution at 72, which is what it's set at originally, and if the image composition allows it, try to crop in as close to 540 px as I can get so that when I resize, there's the least amount of compression happening.)
If I know a gif is going to be the full width of a tumblr post, I'll resize the width to 540 pixels (the height doesn't matter). But if I make a portrait-style gif which will be sharing a row with another gif, I'll resize anywhere from 270 px -> 350 px. If it's smaller than 270 px, tumblr will enlarge the gif and it'll look bad. If it's wider than 270 px, tumblr might reduce its quality a bit and it won't look as good. But personally, I prefer that if someone clicks on the gif to enlarge it, it looks better enlarged, so I usually will leave it around 345 px as long as the file isn't too big.
PHASE FOUR: Export (last one!)
Once you're happy with everything about your gif, it's time to export. (Remember to save your progress frequently!)
Go to the top to File -> Export -> Save for Web (Legacy)...
^It'll bring up this Save window.
These are the settings I like to use for gifs. You'll find a lot of differing opinions out there about Adaptive vs. Perceptual/Pattern vs. Diffusion, but you should always have "GIF" selected, "Transparency" checked with "No Transparency Dither" selected, Looping set to "Forever", and Colors set to "256". I like "Bicubic Sharper" for my Quality tab, but there are whole tutorials just about comparing those settings. The best thing to do though is to try them out and compare for yourself.
(edit: I've discovered that if a gif is slightly too large and I don't want to shorten it or resize it down, I can try to reduce the colors from 256 to 128 to get it under the limit. I'll never go below 128, and sometimes I will go to 200 or 170 to try to eliminate as little color variety as possible, but often there is not a noticeable difference in your finished gif. But always compare, of course, to make sure.)
On the bottom left is where the size of the gif is shown -> tumblr requires gifs 10MB and under, but in my experience, gifs load/play best on tumblr when they're around 6MB. I always leave a little growing room as well, bc it might say 5.8MB in this window, but after it saves, the file will have grown a little bit and will likely be over 6MB at that point. (edit: I now regularly post gifs that are around 9.5MB and tumblr seems to be able to handle it better.)
AND THAT'S ALL!
If you've made it this far...congratulations! haha
I know this is a whole lot of information and you might be feeling overwhelmed! But I hope, if anything, this shows you just how complex gif-making can be, and how it is absolutely an art! No one should be stealing anyone's gifs, as a lot of hard work and love goes into the process.
This doesn't include things like adding text to a gif, or more complex adjustments and corrections like masking or key frames. But I'm happy to do more of these if there are specific questions people have.
Let me know what you're curious about or if something is unclear! And happy gif-making! ❤️
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i think one of the biggest steps we, as a society, will be able to take towards sustainability (of, like... everything) is to eliminate the concept of manufactured obsolescence. For big stuff like houses and buildings, but also smaller stuff, especially electronics of all kinds.
And this got a bit long, but the TL;DR (too long; didn't read) is: capitalism is evil and gonna destroy the entire planet unless we abolish it as soon as possible.
There's no real reason why any kind of computer/tablet/phone/etc. can't last more than like 3 years max.
It should be highly illegal for companies to push updates onto our electronics that purposely slow them down, or to stop support of "old" operating systems that aren't even 5 years old yet, in favor of getting a new phone with a new operating system for no reason other than to sell people a new phone.
Same goes for storage, kinda. I have an SD card that's about as big as a SIM card and can store 250GB of data. There's no reason why my phones internal storage is only 25GB, except to push "cloud storage" onto people for companies to secretely mine that data to push more advertising onto us.
And why is it always ads, anyway? Like, at least offer me a service, but they're not doing that.
And not just phones, but literally everything. There's no reason why a fridge or an oven or an automatic feeder or ANY kind of smart device should need a wifi connection to just do the one thing it's supposed to do. None. These things worked just fine in the part when we didn't have any internet of things type bullshit, there's no reason to make these things worse except to squeeze more money out of people.
(I am aware that "smart things" can be incredibly helpful for disabled people to live an independent life. However, in those cases as well, there's no reason why "no internet" should be a fatal point of failure, and there's no reason why something like a thermostat needs to have an internet connection to recieve voice commands. I mean it needs to know like... 3 or 4 words: an activating phrase, "higher", "lower", and numbers. It cannot be complicated enough to require regular updates via internet.)
and non-electronics as well.
Just take clothes.
So many clothes are made out of "polyesther" or "polyacryl" or something else with the word "poly-" at the start, which usually just means "plastic".
And I'm sure there are some uses for plastic clothes like if someone has complicated allergies to a bunch of natural fibers, but there's no reason to have more than 80% of all clothes available on the market be either pure plastic or half plastic.
1) it's absolutely atrocious for the environment, because these clothes leech microplastics into waters like no tomorrow while only lasting like 5 years at best
2) they're just terrible quality-wise. I used to wear a plastic jacket in winter, and i would either sweat to death with it closed without even exhausting myself, or freeze like hell with it open. Neither of which are ideal.
Then i got a cotton sweater to wear in winter and i didn't sweat, but i wasn't cold either. I was comfortably warm without getting sweaty, because the sweater let my skin breathe. Plastic can't do that.
3) Vegans can yell about this one all they want, but "vegan leather" is also just plastic. there's no such thing as "vegan leather", but ACTUAL leather may harm an animal (though with as much beef that's sold all over the world, there's no way there's a shortage of cow leather), but it's only gonna "harm" ONE animal. Not every single animal on earth due to byproducts of the manufacturing process and the fact that it never fucking goes away.
And real leather is so durable. Like, sure, you kill one animal and get its skin for leather (but also its meat for food and everything else, i don't even know how much), if you care for the thing you made from its skin, you're set for literal generations, because it doesn't break after like 5 years. And if that thing does eventually break, you can still break it up and use the leather for new, smaller, things. And once those things break, too, to the point where the leather can't be reused, you can throw it away, knowing that it will decompose soon, instead of sticking around forever.
And I'm sure there's plenty more things, but it all ends up leading back to money and capitalism.
Capitalism tells companies to get money. More money. More money. Get absolutely obscene amounts of money.
and of course the first question that regular people always ask is "but why?"
But here's the thing: the "why" isn't important in capitalism. There's no reason behind the hoarding of wealth, because the hoarding of wealth is the reason.
and remember the saying "When the Last Tree Is Cut Down, the Last Fish Eaten, and the Last Stream Poisoned, You Will Realize That You Cannot Eat Money"?
Yeah, capitalism doesn't care about the fact that you're cutting down the last tree, killing the last fish, and poisoning the last stream. As long as you're making money, the damage you're doing is irrelevant. There's no cost too great for making money, as long as that cost isn't money.
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