#Olivier Cresp

[odoroussavourssweet]

Kenzo Amour

Noses: Daphne Bugey and Olivier Cresp

notes: rice, white tea; frangipani, cherry blossom, heliotrope; vanilla, incense, musk, thanaka wood

Kenzo Amour is a straightforward gooey rice pudding fragrance, powerful and sweet.

Ironically, given the “Asian-inspired” marketing campaign, it’s maybe the ultimate in lactonic (milky) scents that put dairy front and center.

Despite my well-known distaste for sweet gourmands, I find Amour surprisingly lovable; the milkiness is comforting, and the powdery heliotropin makes it stop short a half notch from the over-rich dessert zone and remind you it’s a perfume.

If you’re looking for a canonical, real-deal sweet milky vanilla comfort scent, this is the one.

[parfumery-wiki]

Light Blue Eau Intense (eau de parfum) Light Blue Dolce & Gabbana Nose: Olivier Cresp

Citrus

Sixteen years after the launch of Light Blue, master perfumer Olivier Cresp writes another chapter of the Light Blue saga with Light Blue Eau Intense pour Femme.

Light Blue Eau Intense is more than a scent, it is the aura of Mediterranean beauty.

Top notes: Lemon, Granny Smith apple Heart notes: Marigold, Jasmine petals Base notes: Amber wood, Musk

[persolaise]

Akro Infuse, Rendez-Vous, Parfum D'Empire showcase and other reviews - 2024

An intriguing cup of tea from Akro, gender-bending from Rendez-Vous and several evocative gems from Parfum D'Empire

An unusual cup of tea was on offer in a recent episode of Love At First Scent, in the form of the new Akro Infuse (Olivier Cresp). In the same broadcast, I talked about the intriguing Rendez-Vous, composed by Antoine Lie, after which I presented a showcase review of a brand that doesn’t get anywhere near the attention it deserves from me, Parfum D’Empire, all of whose wares are created by its…

[angelitam]

L'Eau Kenzo, nouveau design

L’audace signée Kenzo avec son nouveau design, L’Eau Kenzo. L’Eau Kenzo, nouveau design L’Eau Kenzo puise son inspiration dans une nature généreuse, et capture en chemin ses parfums de fleurs, de fruits, de fraîcheur et de bonheur. Les Parfums Kenzo saisissent cette eau gorgée de couleurs pour une rencontre boisée avec la peau. L’Eau Kenzo, nouveau design L’Eau Kenzo pour Homme est une Eau de…

[pocketvenuslux]

I recently purchased Akro’s sample set from SSENSE on a whim and was pleasantly surprized. Each scent offers a remarkably faithful rendering of a familiar ingredient before drying down into a pleasant, well executed designer finish. I’ll also note they are reasonably priced at US$80/30ml and US$160/100ml. While this feels a bit high, it’s in step with the rampant inflation in the fragrance sector in recent years.

Awake - This is like sticking your face into a freshly ground bag of coffee beans. The scent has massive projection. The coffee accord fades into a more generic gourmand toffee sweetness with a touch of bitterness. Awake is what I think Cresp wanted to do with YSL's Black Opium. I couldn't detect any coffee in Black Opium even though it's in the notes pyramid - it’s your predictable loud designer sugarbomb. The two fragrances are presented as dissimilar, but we start getting some family resemblance to Black Opium in the sweet toffee dry down.

Dark - Dark is something of a redundant scent, given other similar sweet chocolatey scents on the market like Tom Ford’s classic Tobacco Vanille, Prada’s Candy Night and so on. Cresp’s take is not a bitter dark, but one that is a little fudgey, if not milky. The drydown becomes more gummy in texture as the sweetness becomes more amped up.

Malt - Possibly the most unsuccessful in this collection, Malt edges uncomfortably close to acrylic paint on my skin instead of the peaty darkness I was expecting. This is due to the “seaweed” note which is creative, but not necessarily in a good way. I appreciate that this scent is not sweet and predictable, with the liquor itself opening more sour than boozy but the “seaweed” dominates the composition with its salty, metallic character, one that is shared with Sécrétions Magnifiques. It overpowers the original concept, even in the dry down as the woods start to strengthen. Definitely one to test on skin first.

Smoke - It seems like every new niche house needs to release a smoky fragrance these days. You know the type. It’s a bit spicy with a touch of leather, maybe some bull-bore butch cade or BBQ patchouli, a sweet amber in the base. Thankfully, Smoke offers a somewhat different take. It’s not particularly spicy, opening with more of a medicinal edge and an unexpected grain-like note that dries down into something more ashy, then vanillaic. The cade is gentle, no acrid plumes of burning rubber. The tobacco is similarly subtle, no cliched, honey drenched leaves. Smoke doesn’t muscle its way into the genre but rather, sets itself slightly apart with its weirdness. Unfortunately, Smoke also gives me a wallop of a headache so it’s a hard pass.

Haze - Haze is a cannabis fragrance, even though this is not mentioned in the notes pyramid or promotional copy save accompanying photographs. Instead there’s reference to absinthe which I think is a cop out as there isn’t any anise, just some cooling notes.

I had low expectations for Haze because in my experience, cannabis fragrances never resemble the real deal. No one wants to smell like skunk, those unpleasant thiols that the terpenes in cannabis resemble so closely. However, Haze is probably the closest approximation I've come across while remaining entirely wearable. At first whiff I immediately thought, yet another fragrance cashing in on trying to be edgy. But then, this dank bud starting taking shape. There's definitely no skunk, but Cresp managed to accurately capture that deep, vegetal aspect of cannabis that comes up from below. It's like he modified the top, editing weed’s citrusy, hoppy top to something closer to a traditional fougere, deleted the skunky middle and then kept the bottom. I'm genuinely impressed. As a whole, it still does not smell like cannabis, but you can pick out a shared dankness. Dries down to a pleasant, barbershoppy aromatic.

Night - Unlike the others, Night doesn’t reproduce a substance so much as an experience of a late night out clubbing, your body pressed up against some stranger’s. Akro’s most polarizing scent confronts the nose with what smells to me like sweaty male crotch with a touch of leather contrasting with a synthetic, metallic and somewhat powdery rose. As the assertive cumin and harsh edges of the rose soften, the scent becomes downright snuggly. I enjoy animalic fragrances and Night’s post-coital dry down but the rose is not my style. It also feels too dissonant with the rest of the scent so it misses the mark for me. Having said that, this fragrance celebrates Cresp at his most unapologetic. I am reminded of the devil-may-care dirty patchouli in his blockbuster hit, Angel; the daring dash of cumin he introduced in his reformulation of Femme. At a time when “niche” is being reduced to a never ending deluge of safe bets and cliched releases, an affordable, insouciant, raunchy romp of a fragrance is like a breath of fresh air.

[ohsofttouch]

I realized today all the fragrances I love are by the same nose.

[cleolinda]

So I tried Black Opium Extreme again

A relatively simple installment this week: remember how I tried this one and got nothing but jasmine? Well, I remembered two things:

I tried this on my wrist, not the back of my hand.

I tried it only a couple days after the sample arrived in the mail, rather than letting it settle for a couple of weeks.

I cannot tell you why either of these things make a difference. All I can tell you is that I wore Black Opium Extreme again, and suddenly it was an intense mocha (more a chocolate supported by coffee than the other way around, on me) with an undertone of licorice. In fact, through the lifespan of the perfume, the white floral blend (jasmine and orange blossom) was the least noticeable. I mean, it was there, but you could smell it as part of all the other notes, not standing unto itself. And if you look up there in the original post, jasmine was all I got. Even after the coffee-chocolate-licorice fades, it's not really the jasmine that comes out; it's more of the pear-heavy gourmand I remember from getting vaguely sprayed with the original Black Opium at an Ulta.

And I have also been able to (re)try the original. Let's compare the notes for a moment:

Black Opium (2014): Pear, pink pepper, orange blossom, coffee, jasmine, bitter almond, licorice, vanilla, patchouli, cashmere wood (Cashmeran), cedar.

Black Opium Extreme (2021): Black coffee, cacao, mandarin orange, lemon, pear, jasmine (grandiflorum? sambac?), orange blossom, bourbon vanilla, patchouli.

(For the record: the creators are Nathalie Lorson, Marie Salamagne, Olivier Cresp and Honorine Blanc.)

The newer variant is advertised as being very heavy on the "dark" gourmand notes, especially the coffee, and when I finally got Extreme to cooperate, that's what I got. Licorice isn't listed, but I feel like that's a big ol' lie, because I smell it more clearly here than in the original. Who knows? Not me.

As for the original, we gotta put an asterisk by this, because what I have is a very old Sephora sample (but less than ten years old). I think it aged really nicely, but I can't tell you for sure if the balance of the fragrance has changed—have the basenotes gotten stronger, has something else faded, what have you.

The original opens with the fruity pear-citrus blast that nearly choked me out while shopping; gradually the gourmand notes come out as a sort of pear cupcake foundation. I mostly read the (remember: aged) sample as a vanilla cupcake rather than a coffee or chocolate one, with those notes and the patchouli (which has probably aged very smoothly) subconsciously giving the base more weight. It doesn't come off like a mocha latte; it smells very Vanilla, and very Cake, and eventually, that's the scent left behind once the fruits have gone home. The white floral is still wound up in there, but again, you wouldn't really think of this as "floral" or "blooming," as opposed to the way that the Samsara EdT smelled oddly fresh and airy for a heavily sandalwood fragrance. So: A fresh batch of Black Opium might smell very different, but with this sample, that's what I get. The Extreme version is meant to bring the coffee and chocolate out and put it on top, so that checks out.

What any of this has to do with opium, or even Opium (1977), I do not know.

The thing that intrigues me is that I keep seeing jasmine/licorice combinations in perfume; I've been having a little trouble distinguishing licorice-anise notes, so I've been researching that. By researching, I mean "eating actual licorice candy even though I don't like it." The short version is that licorice, anise, star anise, fennel, and even magnolia blossoms all have a very characteristic smell/taste (granted, I have never eaten a magnolia blossom), and that common denominator is the compound anethole. That's what I'm looking into.

Jasmine sambac (aka night-blooming jasmine, mogra, sampaguita, melati putih, "Arabian jasmine") doesn't seem to have any anethole, but I'm convinced that it blends particularly well with licorice (etc.). As it turns out, I have a sample of Nemat's "Mogra," just because I like jasmine, and will you look at that: mogra is jasmine sambac. It's exactly what's in Black Opium(s). I don't care what anyone says, that's what it is. And jasmine sambac apparently has a scent that, if not containing anethole, is damn compatible with it; either I haven't learned to distinguish licorice very well yet, or they just blend together that well.

And I noticed that the jasmine/licorice combination is in two other fragrance samples I have: the original, eponymous Lolita Lempicka (1997), and the (for some reason completely different) eau de parfum concentration of HYPNOTIC POISON. So I'll be reporting back on those soon.

Perfume discussion masterpost

[fruitchouli]

what i worn last week luv xx

Balenciaga Paris L’Essence (2011)

perfumer: Olivier Polge

Valentino Valentina Rosa Assoluto (2014)

perfumers: Hamid Merati-Kashani, Olivier Cresp

Van Cleef & Arpels California Reverie (2014)

perfumer: Antoine Maisondieu

4160 Tuesdays Dirty Honey (2015)

perfumer: Sarah McCartney

Paris Hilton Fairy Dust (2008)

perfumer: Cécile Hua

Diptyque L’Ombre dans L’Eau (1983)

perfumer: Serge Kalouguine

Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise (2003)

perfumer: Calice Becker

[fancyemmabovary]

“Inspired by toffee apple and including notes of lemon, gardenia and cedarwood, this delicious citrus-floral has enchanted women around the globe and become a modern icon”. (Olivier Cresp, master perfumer)

[scentoftoday]

Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent

Mon Paris by Yves Saint Laurent is a Chypre Fruity fragrance for women. Mon Paris was launched in 2016. Mon Paris was created by Olivier Cresp, Harry Fremont and Dora Baghriche. Top notes are Strawberry, Raspberry, Pear, Orange, Tangerine, Calabrian bergamot and Calone; middle notes are Peony, Jasmine Sambac, Chinese Jasmine, Datura and Orange Blossom; base notes are Indonesian Patchouli Leaf, Patchouli, White Musk, Vanila, Ambroxan, Moss and Cedar.

[sharminaktershila]

Top 10 Most Popular Women’s Perfume Brands in Bangladesh

The perfume industry is a multibillion-dollar industry, with women being the majority of customers. There are so many perfume companies emerging these days, providing so many options. Only a handful of them was able to win the hearts of their clients. In this article, we will discuss the top ten female perfume brands in Bangladesh.

Women are more likely than males to purchase perfume, and they are also more likely to be interested in trying new perfumes. Women’s perfume is a booming business with the industry being worth billions of dollars.

Top 10 Most Popular Women’s Perfume Brands in Bangladesh

The charm of fragrance is that it is both brief and empowering. It generates a vibe that stays in a room long after its user has left and left a footprint in our memory. That is why it is necessary to get perfume from a reputable brand. We have tried to gather all the important data on the top ten women’s perfume brands in Bangladesh and this information is presented below-

1. CAROLINA HERRERA GIRL

Carolina Herrera Good Girl is a floral amber perfume for women. Good Girl was first launched in 2016. This perfume was created by Louise Turner. Almond, Coffee, and Bergamot are the top notes whereas Tuberose, Jasmine Samba Orange Blossom, Orris, and Bulgarian Rose are the middle notes. The base notes include tonka bean and vanilla.

Good Girl is a unique blend of tuberose, tonka bean, and tuberose that reflects a strong woman’s personality. It also contrasts the rich and complex notes of cocoa and tonka bean with the floral waves of white Sambac jasmine or tuberose.

2. VIVA LA JUICY NOIR

Juicy Couture Viva La Juicy Noir is a Floral Fruity Gourmand fragrance for confident and beautiful women. In 2013, this perfume was first launched. You will find a luscious combination of berries, and mandarin as the top notes. This also announces the floral blend of jasmine, honeysuckle, and gardenia in the middle. The base is completed by sandalwood, vanilla, and amber.

3. CHANEL COCO MADEMOISELLE

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP for WOMEN is a floral amber scent for women. This perfume was first launched in 2001. This scent was created by Jacques Polge, a perfumer. Top notes include Orange, Mandarin, and Bergamot. Middle notes include Jasmine and Mimosa, Turkish Rose, Jasmine, and Ylang Ylang. Base notes contain Patchouli, White Musk, and Vanilla. It has a fresh citrus scent, while the middle notes are a floral scent that has a warm and comforting woody finish.

Read More: 10 most popular perfume brands in Bangladesh

4. DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE FOREVER

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Forever EDP for WOMEN is a floral fruity fragrance designed for women. This is a new scent. Light Blue Forever was first launched in 2021. This scent is a creation of Olivier Cresp, a french perfumer. The top notes of this perfume are- Lemon, Blood Orange, and Green Apple whereas Orange Blossom, White Flowers, and Cashmeran are the middle notes. White Musk, Cedar, and Cashmeran are base notes.

5. VERSACE CRYSTAL NOIR EDP

Versace Crystal Noir EDP for WOMEN was created solely for women. This perfume was first released in 2004. This scent was created by Antoine Lie.  Cardamom, Ginger, and Pepper make up the top notes. Coconut, Gardenia, and Orange Blossom are the middle notes. Sandalwood and Musk are the base notes. These notes make Crystal Noir an exquisite, sensuous perfume.

6. MUGLER ALIEN REFILLABLE EDP

Mugler Alien EDP FOR WOMEN is a scent for women that has Amber Woody notes. This perfume was first launched in 2005. Laurent Bruyere and Dominique Ropion came up with the idea of this perfume. Jasmine is the top, Woodsy Notes the middle notes, and Amber is the base note.

Read More: 12 Things to Check Before Buying Men's Perfume

7. JPG SCANDAL

Jean-Paul Gaultier Scandal EDP for women by Jean Paul Gaultier is a sweet and flowery scent. This is also a new scent. It was first brought into the market in 2020. This perfume was created by Fabrice Pellegrin and Daphne Bugey. This perfume blends beautifully the notes of Raspberry, Tuberose, and Milk with Orange Blossom and Jasmine Sambac to create a sense of elegance and sensuality.

8. GUESS SEDUCTIVE NOIR

Jean-Paul Gaultier Scandal EDP for women by Jean Paul Gaultier is a sweet and flowery scent. This is also a new scent. It was first brought into the market in 2020. This perfume was created by Fabrice Pellegrin and Daphne Bugey. This perfume blends beautifully the notes of Raspberry, Tuberose, and Milk with Orange Blossom and Jasmine Sambac to create a sense of elegance and sensuality.

Guess Seductive Noir for women is an Amber Floral perfume for women. This fragrance was launched in 2019. This fragrance was made by Laurent Le Guernec. The top notes include- Sage, Bergamot, and Peony. Iris, Jasmine Sambac, and Lily of the Valley are the middle and base notes. Vanilla, and Haitian Vetiver, are the base and intermediate notes.

This perfume is perfect for confident, elegant women and can be given as a gift. It opens with a citrusy, savory aroma; it then transitions to a more floral tone before ending with a seductive vanilla essence.

9. YSL LIBRE INTENSE

Yves Laurent Libre Intense EDP for women is an Amber Fougere fragrance for women. Libre Intense was first launched in 2020. Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaim created this fragrance. The top notes include- Mandarin Orange, Lavender, and Bergamot. Orchid, Jasmine, and Sambac make up the middle notes. Vetiver, Tonka Bean, and Ambergris are the base notes. This fragrance embodies freedom and the ability to live your life to its fullest.

Learn More: Difference between women's perfume and men's perfume

10. DIOR ADDICT

Dior Addict EDP for women, an Amber Floral perfume for women, was launched by Dior in 2014. Francois Demachy, a renowned perfumer made this scent. Mandarin Leaf and Orange Blossom make up the top notes. Jasmine Sambac makes up the middle notes. Bourbon Vanilla is the base note. It has a sweet, floral scent with a citrusy kick.

Conclusion

Fragrances are certainly the most essential of women’s fashion accessories these days. The greatest perfume for you is that one that complements your energy and personality. When visiting a perfume store, you must prioritize your choice in order to choose the best scent for you. To assist you in this regard, we analyzed the top ten perfume brands for women. So, why are you holding up? After checking the fragrance notes, select your desired fragrance and place your order straight away.

The article was originally published at adrisedigital.com

[parfumery-wiki]

Nina (eau de toilette) Nina Nina Ricci Nose: Olivier Cresp

Floral

Inspired by nature, Nina by Nina Ricci is a clean and vegan fragrance as delightfully fresh and tantalizing as a toffee apple. It’s a modern citrus-floral scent, bursting with positivity and a touch of playfulness. Containing 90% natural origin ingredients, this sparkling Eau de Toilette includes Nina’s signature note of Italian lemon to refresh delicious toffee apple with its lively zest. The Italian lemon essence used in Nina is upcycled: it comes exclusively from fruits excluded from the food trade due to their appearance or size. Rather than being thrown away, these lemons that do not meet the standards established are repurposed by perfumery.

“Since it was created in 2006, Nina has been surprising and enchanting the world of fragrance. Inspired by toffee apple and including notes of lemon, gardenia and cedarwood, this delicious citrus-floral has enchanted women around the globe and become a modern icon.” Olivier Cresp, master perfumer

Top notes: Lemon, Lime Heart notes: Gardenia, Toffee apple Base notes: Cedarwood, White musk

[persolaise]

Creed Absolu Aventus, Gucci A Floral Verse, Peosum Horn OK Please and other reviews - 2023

I guess some of you must have asked for another Aventus. -- New perfumes for December 2023, featuring Peosym, Gucci and Creed.

Perhaps because two Aventuses weren’t enough to make us lose faith in humanity, Creed have just released yet another flanker to their inexplicably popular 2010 release. And to the alarm of many you (I must say, I was touched by your concern) I reviewed it in a recent episode of Love At First Scent, together with new works from Gucci, Peosym and others. Here’s a link to the video, followed by a…

[angelitam]

Devotion de Dolce&Gabbana

Nouvelle fragrance chez Dolce&Gabbana, Devotion. Devotion Dolce&Gabbana  Dolce&Gabbana propose l’irrésistible charme de l’eau de parfum Devotion. Devotion de Dolce&Gabbana La nouvelle fragrance Dolce&Gabbana Devotion Eau de Parfum est un voyage sensoriel, séduisant et rassurant. Elle évoque les valeurs positives chères à Dolce&Gabbana, symbolisées par le sceau du Sacré-Cœur. Une création…

[desirepathzine]

Scent Memory: From the Garden by Maison Margiela Replica

Here is something different from me: I want to talk to you about perfumes. Perfume is pretty popular to talk about on the internet right now, but I want to offer something different than just "smell like a microtrend!" or "here's a dupe!" (dupes are fine, I have a few). I just want to talk about how I use scent to preserve and keep memories.

I'm in the process of being diagnosed with CPTSD. My memory is tricky because of this. I tend to lose the best things and hang onto things I would rather not remember, more intensely than others. Brains are funny things, and that's okay. I discovered earlier in my life that perfume was a powerful tool to connect me to things I want to keep in my brain.

Usually I pick a scent and take it out with me to a concert or an event or a trip so that I have a strong tie to that particular smell for that particular happening. But today's perfume selection actually managed to reverse engineer this for me.

From the Garden by Maison Margiela's ever-popular Replica line features notes of tomato leaf, green mandarin, geranium, and patchouli. The nose behind this scent is Olivier Cresp.

It smells like my paternal grandmother's yard. Exactly. A place that I haven't been to in sixteen years.

It's so rare that I am instantly transported by a scent like I was the first time I smelled From the Garden. I normally have to create a place to be transported to, assign a perfume to a band I love and wear that scent to their concert, something like that. At first sniff, I was immediately out in the small garden at her small house in rural Kentucky, where she grew tomatoes and had an apple tree, and a variety of flowers that I loved as a kid but can't name as an adult.

This grandma was a single mom who raised my dad and two siblings, and suddenly passed away when I was 12. By all means I should have had more time with her. I wish we had, my other grandparents were not particularly interested in being grandparents to my siblings and I.

Driving several hours from home to visit was always a big summer adventure, and getting to be out in the grass and wild landscape after being packed into the car was always a treat.

Tomato leaf is an underutilized smell in perfumery, and it's the one that I associate the most strongly with those childhood experiences (the tomatoes from those vines were so beautiful, big and juicy and we often had to resist the urge to snap off the ones that weren't ready). I was in the middle of a Sephora when I first caught a whiff of From the Garden and had to stand there in awe that here was truly an experience I missed, that I hadn't thought about in a while, in a bottle. It was surprising and lovely, and honestly, very touching. I purchased a travel size for my birthday this year and excitedly gave a sample spray on paper to my dad, who agreed: that was her house.

It's a shockingly lovely wear, the sweet tartness of the mandarin and the green freshness of the geranium helping to elevate the earthiness of the tomato leaf (I rarely get that patchouli note, it's a perfect blend with the top notes).

What a gift to be transported. I'm very thankful for that. A spell I didn't have to craft.