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How to do Norway on a shoestring? Take a 12-hour trip to Oslo | Life and style

The reactions you get to saying you’re doing Oslo, one of the most expensive cities in the world, “on the cheap,” are a lot like those you’d get if you announced your plans to fund your own space agency, or build a malaria lab in your upstairs bedroom. Friends, colleagues, even curious passersby, will affect not mere dubiousness, but wild, mocking scepticism.

Undeterred, or perhaps inspired, I set out to see what could be done on an Oslo day trip, without resorting to remortgaging my hair or selling my trousers for scrap. Landing in Oslo airport at 10am for my 12-hour jaunt in the city, I decided my first cost-saving measure would be to buy an Impulskort, which allowed me 24 hours’ travel on the city’s trains, trams, buses, certain waterways and – most pleasingly of all – a speedy shuttle train to and from the airport to the city centre, all for 246 kroner (roughly £23). Satisfied that, whatever else happened, I wouldn’t have to flee my Nordic debtors on foot, I took a short trip on the immaculate airport train and began my adventure in earnest.

Peaceful … the Nobel Peace centre in Oslo. Entrance £11. Photograph: Tony French/Alamy

Twenty-five minutes later, I arrived at Oslo’s central station right in front of more than a few free activities, and took a pleasant walk around the majestic fjord-side harbour. The city’s opera house is an ideal space to take in the glory of Oslo by walking up the sloping marble crevasse on its side, a rare landmark that’s roughly 80% ramp. Ascending to the height of its auspicious roof gives you an impressive view over the entire city. Two landmarks down, zero kroner spent, I smugly set off for the flurry of museums located a few miles away by train, in the forested peninsula of Bygdøy.

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There, at the splendid Viking Ship Museum, I learned how Norwegians once travelled the world, making millions by raiding and pillaging as far as the Mediterranean and Middle East. This so enriched them that they buried beautiful objects of great value with their fallen dead, some spectacular examples of which are collected here among the wonderfully restored, full-size longboats. Of course, the Vikings stopped all the travelling when they realised they could achieve the same effect without leaving the house, by simply getting the rest of the world to come visit, and charging them £4.60 for a can of coke on arrival.

Joking aside, when it comes to cultural attractions, Oslo isn’t that eye-wateringly expensive in the grand scheme. I visited several museums while I was there, and they were uniformly excellent. The Fram Museum, in particular, represents great value for £11, with its innovatively designed attractions, installations and video pieces, and the sheer mammoth scale of its incredible centrepiece: Roald Amundsen’s exploration ship, the Fram, complete with explorable cabins, store rooms and top deck. While the Viking Ships Museum was certainly smaller for its £9 asking price, its ticket also grants you free admission to the Historical Museum in the city centre.

‘A dizzying array of poses and positions’… two of 212 statues by Gustav Vigeland in Frogland Park. Photograph: Alamy

One pleasant way to find your way back is by waterbus. For around £5, it will take you from Bygdøy to the opera house and give you a nice 20-minute trip round the sights of the fjord. It’s also a good spot to indulge in a few quick rounds of PriceSpotting, the game in which you and fellow travellers try and one-up each other on best bits of value you’ve encountered. For fellow passengers, Alf and Chris Saville, visiting from England, it was the medieval castle, Akershus Fortress, on the Oslo harbour front; free to enter, pleasantly capacious, and filled with interesting corners to snoop around in.

Stopping at Sentrum will take you in the direction of the Nobel Peace Center (£11) and the Historical Museum. This will also take you past some cheaper eating options in the form of street food vans offering everything from fish and chips (£8-10 for a hearty serving) to Thai food (£9 for pad thai or red curry, or five spring rolls for £5).

A little further from existing tramlines is Oslo’s crown tourist jewel, the Vigeland exhibit in Frogner Park. The exhibit comprises 212 statues made by Gustav Vigeland, almost all of which are of naked men, women and children in a dizzying array of poses and positions, all seemingly conceived deliberately to make those with less Scandinavian attitudes to nudity feel decidedly square. The whole thing is vast, mesmerising, and entirely free. Less well known is the mausoleum of his brother, Emmanuel. Housed in a brick building that’s open for a few hours each week, it showcases his distinctly dark and brooding paintings depicting just about every sin imaginable. Very much the Solange of the Vigeland brothers, Emmanuel’s works are less famous but carry a frisson of cool which Gustav’s may never attain. A trip inside will cost about £5, and serve as an edgier alternative to his brother’s blocky concrete nudes.

Blue sky at night … Oslo in the evening. Photograph: Nattee Chalermtiragool/Alamy

It’s true that being in a place this expensive does risk making you money obsessed. Even the world’s least materialistic person will find a world where a beer costs £11 fascinating. It’s mind-blowing to imagine Norwegians anywhere else, say, ordering a lukewarm beer on London’s Southbank, before turning to their partner as they fork over £7 and saying, “Wøw, Bjørn, look how cheap everything is here.” But, in the end, I made it back for my return flight that evening, having spent roughly £60 in 12 hours, taking in four museums, a gigantic sculpture park, an opera house, a beautiful harbour walk, a boat trip and delightful interactions with the city’s locals, most of whom have the sunny, easygoing mien of either heavy metal roadies or tennis coaches.

Only once did I get into anything resembling a harsh word, when a woman near a public bathroom turned to complain about the price. “15 kroner!” she said, in bemusement. “Wow” I replied, joining in. “Crazy!” “Yes,” she said, although now scowling ever so slightly, “but you have to also remember that it’s very clean.” I forgave her for unintentionally levelling a vague accusation as to the cleanliness of the toilets I’m used to, for I had misstepped. It’s clearly one thing for a local to complain about the prices, but visitors should perhaps mind their Ps and Øs.

Way to go

Return flights to Oslo begin at about ��20 with Ryanair. For Impulskort travelcard information, visit ruter.no. For tourist info and cultural attractions, see visitoslo.com, which has an Oslo on a Budget site with deals and offers. If you do choose to stay, the 3-star P-Hotel Oslo has dorm beds from £29 a night

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tripstations · 6 years ago

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Top 10 vineyard stays in the UK and Europe – to visit by train | Travel

Rathfinny Wine Estate, East Sussex

Rathfinny Estate’s 242 hectares (600 acres) of south-facing chalk downland is one of the finest sparkling wine-producing spots in the UK. And owners Sarah and Mark Driver are not short of ambition: their winery can produce more than one million bottles of Sussex sparkling wine each year and they plan to become one of the largest vineyards in Europe.

Accommodation at Rathfinny’s Flint Barns

The estate’s recently renovated Flint Barns offer a laid-back country retreat surrounded by the South Downs. Snug nooks with fireplaces, a communal dining room and tables in the pretty courtyard make the restaurant appealing year-round, and substantial walking trails help to burn off the excess. The estate is four miles (10 minutes by taxi) from Seaford station on the line east from Brighton. • Flint Barns doubles from £100 B&B, rathfinnyestate.com

Ryedale Vineyard, North Yorkshire

Farmhouse at Ryedale Vineyards

The UK’s most northerly commercial vineyard is six miles from Malton station, which connects with Liverpool and Scarborough on the TransPennine route. Malton itself is among Yorkshire’s top foodie destinations and holds its harvest festival with star chefs, live music and the full works on 7-8 September. At Ryedale, two farmhouse rooms overlook nearly 2½ hectares of vines, which roll down the south-facing slopes of the Wolds. Since 2011, the vineyard (including a second site at nearby Howsham) has produced sparkling wine, reds and whites using 16 grape varieties. A pure pinot noir wine is ready for launch this autumn, probably the first time such a tipple has been produced so far north in the UK. A low-impact farming approach is taken with natural pesticides used where possible; wild boundaries and hedgerows are maintained so guests can enjoy a wide range of flora and fauna. Alongside the award-winning wines, a heritage orchard produces cider and apple juice, and a beer venture is under way. Day tours are also available, which culminate in a local wine and cheese tasting. • Doubles from £95 B&B, ryedalevineyards.co.uk

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Sharpham Estate, Devon

By a nature-filled spot on the River Dart sits Sharpham House, an austere looking mansion surrounded by ancient oaks and lush vines. Some of the UK’s most highly regarded wines, including sparkling whites, rosés, a pinot gris and pinot noir comes from Sharpham and can be sampled along with its traditionally produced cheeses during tasting sessions, tours or in the Alfresco kitchen café. The Sharpham Trust runs a low-key campsite in nearby Point Field where tents sit a few metres from the river. Seals sometimes wallow in the brackish water and curlews scour muddy banks. The best way to get from Totnes station to Sharpham is on a three-mile footpath, which is accessible by foot or bike. • Camping in Point Field £7pp, children under five free, sharphamtrust.org

Secret Valley, Somerset

Shepherd’s Hut accommodation

This organic farm in the foothills of Somerset’s Quantocks is within five miles of Bridgwater station and offers a non-conventional mix of alpacas, Christmas trees, glamping and wine-making. The latter is a draw for campers, who get the chance to tour the vines and learn about Secret Valley’s five varieties of grape – pinot noir, rondo, orion, solaris and reichensteiner. The first crop was produced in 2010, 10 years after the farm went organic. The activity centre, animals and range of camping options make this a top spot for families. There are wigwams and bell tents for groups but the more romantic shepherd huts are closest to the vineyards. • Huts sleeping up to four people £145pn, bell tent/yurts/wigwams for two adults from £63.50, lodge for two £73.50. Pitch your own tent from £15pp, secret-valley.co.uk

Llanerch Vineyard, near Cardiff

While meandering around Llanerch’s vineyards overlooking the Vale of Glamorgan, it’s hard to believe that Cardiff’s urban sprawl (and station) is 12 miles away (20 to 25 minutes by taxi). Ryan Davis was similarly taken aback in 2010 when he found the vineyard for sale. Since then, he’s restored the business to recreate some of the magic of Australia’s Margaret River and Marlborough on home turf. The old farmhouse is now a restaurant with rooms, cookery school and wine-tasting hub. Vineyard tours and experiences draw on connections between the landscape and the taste of Cariad (Welsh for love) white wine made with kernling and reichensteiner grapes. Visitors are welcome to get involved in the harvest throughout September. • Doubles from £115 B&B, llanerch.co.uk

La Closerie de Fronsac, near Bordeaux

The Années Folles room at La Closerie de Fronsac

Although more humble than some nearby wine châteaux, this pretty manor house is in a prime location to explore the Bordeaux region. Libourne railway station is five miles down the road (only one change from London St Pancras), and picturesque Saint-Émilion isn’t much further. Fronsac’s 300-year-old vines produce rich, full-bodied reds cared for by a diligent father-and-son team, proud of their small-scale, traditional production methods. The Fronsac experience is awash with historical intrigue; from the 17th-century wine barrels to tales of pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela on the Camino Francés. To make the most of quiet roads and rolling countryside, bring bikes to pedal between world-famous vineyards with their rich, full-bodied reds and chateaus. Maps and advice are available on arrival. • Doubles from £80 B&B, lacloseriedefronsac.com

Domaine de Saint-Jean, Occitanie

Chambre Alice at Domaine de Saint Jean

Languedoc-Roussillon (consumed by the Occitanie region in 2016) rivals Provence for its charming concoction of hilltop villages, sandy shores and rolling vineyards. With almost three times as many vineyards as Bordeaux and fast trains from Paris, it suits oenophiles seeking balmy climes. Domaine de Saint-Jean (20 minutes by taxi from Narbonne station) is a serene spot in the heart of Corbières, one of France’s most productive red and rosé appellation d’origine contrôlées, close to the 900-year-old vineyard at Abbaye de Fontfroide. Martine and Didier welcome guests to four rooms in their rural idyll; Victorine has a private terrace overlooking the vineyards. • From £70 B&B, domaine-de-saint-jean.com

Le Vieux Pressoir, Alsace

Mirabelliers gîte

The north-eastern region of Alsace is an interesting alternative to France’s southern vineyards. The Alsace wine route weaves just west of the Rhine River, passing vineyards, forests and dramatic castles along the way. Working farm Le Vieux Pressoir is on the wine route in Dieffenthal, six miles from Sélestat’s historic centre and station (one of the oldest in France, opening in 1840). The towers of Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle rise 800 metres above the otherwise unassuming village where Le Vieux’s self-catering farmhouses offer a comfortable base. Accommodation ranges from a gîte sleeping eight to a studio apartment; the whole place can be taken exclusively, too. Owners Aurélie and Damien know the surrounding vineyards well and are always happy to point guests in the direction of family-run wineries nearby. • Doubles from £40 B&B, half board options available, two-night minimum stay may apply, gite-vieux-pressoir.fr

Château de Pintray, Indre-et-Loire

Marius and Maryyonne welcome guests to their homely Loire château surrounded by ancient vineyards and rolling countryside, five miles from Amboise station with its connections to Paris, Tours and Orléans. Although the opulent châteaux of Chenonceau and Villandry are close by, it’s easy to while away the days staying put at Pintray. Maryyonne is responsible for the characterful gîte, filled with brocante finds and family portraits, while Marius’ domain is the wine. Across the pretty courtyard, the winery and cave have been part of the AOC of Montlouis-sur-Loire since 1937, although the enormous rotary wine press dates back to the 17th century. Established originally by monks, it’s thought that Henry IV would have once enjoyed the fruits of these vines. Today, Marius leads tours and tastings extolling the virtues of the dry and medium-sweet wines. • Doubles from £115 B&B, sawdays.co.uk, chateau-de-pintray.com

LakeView Hotel le Rivage, Lausanne

View from a room at LakeView Hotel le Rivage

Close to Lausanne central railway station, with its frequent links to Geneva and beyond, LakeView Hotel le Rivage is almost on Lake Geneva and looks up at the Unesco-listed Lavaux vineyard terraces, which tumble down to the water. Families have cultivated this mosaic of steep vineyards covering 800 hectares since the 11th century. LakeView Hotel provides guests with bikes to ride to the vineyards but they are easy to explore on foot, too, with a lattice of interesting paths to follow. There’s an educational walking trail between Lausanne and Montreux, electric buggy tours and the Lavaux Express wine train. The steep south-facing slope makes it impossible to harvest the grapes by machine, so during autumn, there are opportunities for volunteers to get involved in picking by hand. The May to December Lausanne à Table food festival celebrates the pairing of predominantly Chasselas local white wine and food throughout the city. • Rooms from £100, breakfast from £12, rivagelutry.ch

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