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astrikos · 8 years ago

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Photography for Beginners

I updated this post here: https://artres.xyz/post/ultimate-guide-to-photography/.

Note– The tumblr editor scrambled some of my paragraphs upon importing, but I think I fixed most of it! Let me know if you see some messed up errors. Anyways, I hope you enjoy this post! It’s a little long!

Thank you to @thelittlestprincess7 & @sashakazanov for responding to my question on @art-res.

I'm by no means a pro, but I have worked on my artistic photography on both DSLR & compacts for over 4-5 years.

Step 1: Purchase a cheap DSLR/Compact where you can access manual mode. I personally have the Canon T3i & the Sony RX100 (the first version), both are great cameras and now more affordable because they are older models. Of course, you can start with a $2k camera, but that's pretty overkill, especially when you're starting out and maybe on a budget.

On Amazon

Check out my camera buying guide here!

If you decided to get a DSLR/compact, you also need to get an SD card to store the images. I use class 10 because it's fast enough for video and has good transfer speeds. They’re pretty cheap, so I don’t recommend going slower than class 10, if you can help it.

To get a cheap camera, consider going refurbished, used (without too much use, otherwise the shutter might die on you quickly), or buying an older model.

OR: just use your phone and access pro mode/get an app where you can access manual mode. Phone cameras have gotten good lately!

To really learn how to photograph properly, you want to get off of auto mode and switch to manual mode, aperture priority mode(my personal favorite) or shutter priority mode.

Experiment a little now, just change some stuff and see what happens. A little experimentation goes a long way in learning what does what. You might be a little overwhelmed at first by all the dials and controls, but it's alright! Just tweak some stuff and experiment. Live view will be really helpful when you’re first starting out.

Now for a bit more guidance on what does what on your camera. Exposure depends on 3 things: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO (exposure sensitivity)

Shutter speed, which is displayed by a fraction, ie, 1/80, 1/4, 1/2000, determines how fast your camera closes the shutter, or basically, the time out of a second (fraction!) the sensor is exposed to the light.

To prevent camera shake, a useful rule of thumb is to take the focal length (For example, your kit lens, 18-55mm lens, is set to around 55 ) take the number 55 & put your focal length at 1/60 or above. Or you might not need this tip if you have sniper photography skills.

Slower shutter speeds blur motion. Good for motion trails, light trails, blurring waterfalls.

Faster shutter speeds freeze motion. Good for action shots of your cat or dog.

Aperture, which is measured in f-stops, determines how wide open your lens hole is. Yes, the blades actually will open up. You can take a look.

Lower f-stop number, ie, f/1.2, f/1.4, f/1.8, means your lens is wider open, and thus, letting in more light.

Lower f number also yields a more thin depth of field, meaning only a thin plane of the image is sharp, while rest of the frame is blurred out, and then you get the lovely bokeh effect.ex:

following ex w the blurry background

Higher f-stop number, ie, f/8, f/11, f/22, means your lens is more closed and letting in less light.

Yields a larger/wider depth of field, which means more of your background will be in focus

Great for landscapes!

the following ex: f/11

Advanced note: if you're using a macro lens, you want a high enough f number that enough of the subject is focused. Or you can focus stack, but that's a bit above the basics.

ISO - with this, you can increase your sensor's sensitivity to light, though higher numbers (ie, ISO 1600 & up) often results in more noise, or grainy color/luminance artifacts.

All three of these variables work together, which is sort of complicated. If you use aperture priority mode or shutter priority mode, you can adjust either aperture or shutter speed, and then the camera will automatically set the other variable in order to create the correct exposure. You can also set ISO or have the camera automatically calculate it. I recommend experimenting with this to learn if you are overwhelmed with manual mode.

For general shooting, I like aperture priority mode because manual mode makes it harder to quickly react to rapidly changing light conditions and action. However, for some shots where I am looking for a particular effect, I go manual! (Macro shots, waterfall shots, exposure/focus stacking, and anything with tricky lighting)

A practical example of what goes on in my head for indoor shot of something, which is sort of low light.

I want to take a picture of this small statue, and I want a blurry background (shallow depth of field). That means I want a low f/ for a wider lens hole so more light can come in. That’s great because I don’t need to push my ISO too too far, 800 will do. It won’t be too noisy at this level, but too much lower will force me to use a super slow shutter speed to expose the picture correctly, which will result in a blurry image because of camera shake. The focal length of my lens is at 50, so now I am going to put my shutter at 1/60.

Metering – the way exposure is determined by the camera, examples include spot metering (measure a small area), center weighted average, or multiple zone (matrix/evaulative/etc) metering.

Experiment with these and how they interact with different lighting conditions.

Spot metering is useful for high contrast scenes

Average metering is great for landscapes because it takes into account both the sky and the landscape.

There is a lot of other terminology to cover, but for now, I think this is a good start for the absolute fundamentals. I hope this helped!

I also wrote a post explaining RAW vs JPG, if you're interested in learning about that!

Thanks for reading! I hope it helped!

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zakariazakri · 5 years ago

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12 Essential Photography Supplies

1. UV LENS FILTERS

Lens filters can range dramatically in price counting on the function you’re trying to find, except for a beginner-level or hobby photography, you just need a lens filter to guard your actual lens. It’s a touch glass screen that screws onto the front of your lens. That way,

2. & 11. 50MM PRIME LENS

I love this lens such a lot, I included two versions on my list! Both my lenses are fixed so that they don’t zoom in the least. But you get tons more bang for your buck with these! All the lenses I list during this post have a pleasant, wide aperture for the beautiful, crisp foreground, and wonderfully soft backgrounds. That also enables you to shoot in lower light at faster shutter speeds.

No idea what I’m talking about? Learn more about aperture and shutter speed.

50mm 1.8f – this is often commonly referred to as the “nifty fifty.” It’s an incredible prime lens for a touch over $100. Yes, $100! counting on how you shoot, you would possibly never even take this lens off the camera. you'll take great portraits or get beautiful bokeh in your shots. I used this lens exclusively for years. 50mm 1.4f – this is often the lens on my camera most of the time now. I honestly would have cursed with the 1.8f indefinitely, but I broke it (SUPER sad day!). The 1.4 is metal rather than plastic, so it's a touch bit more weight and sturdiness thereto, and it takes gorgeous pictures with the aperture wide open! Click for more photography tips & tutorials!

3. DSLR CAMERA BODY

I’m including two camera bodies here because I’ve shot with both, and therefore the first one may be a LOT cheaper. It’s an excellent, great starter camera and has just about all the functionality you’re probably trying to find at a very manageable tag. Unless it’s an equivalent price, I like to recommend buying the body only and learning lenses separately. I even have a few recommendations during this post.

Canon Rebel T5i – At the time of publication, this camera body runs $599 on Amazon with the kit lens (18-55mm). I shot on the T3i for about four years before upgrading late last year, and it had been fantastic. It’s a crop frame (or crop sensor) camera, which just means the camera captures a rather smaller field during a photo than a full-frame (or full sensor) camera. Especially if you’re just starting, you almost certainly won’t need anything quite this, and therefore the lightweight body is easy to lug around! Canon 6D – The 6D may be a more mid-professional range camera. It’s full-frame, so you'll get more photo area with any lens, which makes an especially significant difference when shooting with a 50mm lens. it's WiFi, which I exploit constantly alongside the camera’s app, either to shoot remotely or to upload pictures directly from the camera to my phone. This body may be a good bit heavier than the Rebel cameras but is sturdy and well-encased. But all that comes with a better tag — $1,399 at the time of publication.

4. MEMORY CARD

Unless you’re getting to shoot tons of video, you'll escape with a basic SD card. I do, however, recommend getting a card with 32 or 64 gigs of space for storing so that you never run out of the room.

Also an honest idea? Keep a spare card in your camera bag so that you don’t end up on a visitor within the middle of a project with no card in your camera. inquire from me how I do know that…

5. WHITE BALANCE CARD

It’s good to understand the way to set the custom white balance on your camera so that you'll get true-to-color shots regardless of what kind of light you’re shooting in. you'll use any “true white” surface — even a sheet of paper — to calibrate, but it’s nice to possess a white balance card in your camera bag. It’s sturdy and may tie onto your bag for straightforward access. It also features a black and neutral grey card with it, but I’ve honestly never used those two.

Click for more photography tips & tutorials!

6. REFLECTORS

Using reflectors completely changed my photography. Completely. you'll hold or prop a reflector to bounce light from a window or other light, and it instantly erases harsh shadows and uneven lighting. you would like to urge everything as perfect as possible before you get to the editing phase so that you’re only doing minor touch-ups, and getting the lighting right makes all the difference within the world!

You can also use white foam core to bounce and reflect light. Bonus: it doubles as an excellent background for your photos. Here’s an inexpensive, easy tutorial to make a folding “photo studio” out of it!

Learn a touch more about using reflectors and light-bouncing here.

7. DUST BLOWER

You spent a bunch of cash on your lens(es), so take excellent care of them and treat them right! Before you wipe the lens, use a blower to puff any specks of dust or other fragments on the surface. Otherwise, wiping will rub those particles around the lens causing tiny, tiny scratches. No Bueno, guys.

You can also use canned air for this, and canned air is kind of awesome, right?

8. 35MM PRIME LENS

I had a true “treat yo’ self” moment once I turned 30 this year. I went crazy and eventually invested during a new lens, and now I’m just about hooked into it.

9. TRIPOD

You must, must, must have a tripod if you’re getting to be taking your photography seriously in the least.

Why? Let me offer you three reasons: 1. If you’re a blogger, you’re likely to wish to require pictures with yourself (even just your hands!) within the shot at some point. 2. If you ever want to shoot in low light or with slower shutter speed, shaky hands will ruin every shot. 3. Shooting at strange angles or very low or high heights can make it difficult to duplicate an attempt for multiple images if you would like to require an opportunity in between shots or shoot on multiple days.

Basic lightweight tripod – I used this $20 tripod for four years before finally upgrading, and it served me faithfully along the way. It’s relatively versatile, but once I upgraded to a heavier camera body, I worried about the tripod tipping over. It also limits the range of angles you'll get compared to the tripod I even have now. Lateral arm tripod – this is often definitely an investment piece, but now that I own it, I can’t remember how I survived without it! This tripod is heavier duty and tons more versatile. it's a ball joint, therefore the camera can swivel to only about any angle. you'll also use the lateral arm to shoot straight down, which may be a lifesaver for shots like these. The legs also move independently, so it’s easier to suit tight spaces. If you’re getting to use the lateral arm function to shoot straight down, you would like to counter-weight the arm to stay the camera from tipping forward. There’s a take up the opposite side, and you'll hang something heavy, sort of a bag of books or photography sandbags.

10. MICROFIBER CLEANING CLOTH

After you blow the dust off your lens, you'll use a soft, lint-free microfiber cloth to wipe off any fingerprints, smudges, or water droplets. Just make certain to stay the material clean, too, or you’ll rub in additional dust!

12. WIRELESS remote

A remote allows you to require pictures of yourself without having to click the 10-second timer and sprint across space. We talk tons more about the way to use a foreign for nice selfies during this post.

It’s also great for shots in low light or slow shutter speed to scale back camera shake.

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mycreativecinema8 · 8 years ago

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Why You Need a 35mm Lens for DSLR camera + Sigma Art 35mm F1 4 lens review. Sigma 35mm F1.4 ART DG HSM Lens for Canon: https://goo.gl/4a8pg2 Sigma USB Dock (for Canon Lenses): https://goo.gl/uBjROh Subscribe to My Creative Cinema Here: https://goo.gl/8fvPHy List of my Gear: https://goo.gl/mn5OV8 Alex Power & MCC on Social Media: https://www.facebook.com/groups/24533... https://twitter.com/CreativeCinema8 https://www.snapchat.com/add/alexpowe... https://www.instagram.com/creativecin... https://www.facebook.com/AlexPower888 ~~~ Video Cameras and Equipment Used To Shoot This Video~~~ Camera — Canon EOS 70D https://goo.gl/w5kQ9R Lens — Sigma EF 18-35mm f1.8 Lens https://goo.gl/V3ifSr Tripod — Magnus VT-300 Video Tripod with Fluid Head https://goo.gl/LlnzmS Audio / Sound Recording — Sennheiser EW112PG3A Wireless Microphone Kit https://goo.gl/fPx7ar Lighting — Yongnuo YN-300 III YN300 III Pro LED Video Light https://goo.gl/s6vNBQ This VIDEO was EDITED with Adobe Premiere on a PC. https://goo.gl/dcj5TD NOTE DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, I receive a small commission if you buy from this website. This helping support the channel and letting me do more videos like this one. Your Support is Greatly Appreciated!

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(via https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3rYOV16QFc)

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slrlounge1 · 6 years ago

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6 Must-Have Lenses For Wedding Photography (2019 Update)

Wedding photography is unique in that it encompasses several genres of photography: fashion, portrait, architectural, product, macro, family, and sometimes even travel photography. Few genres demand more from photographers and their gear.

In order to deliver a complete wedding photography product, you’re going to need lenses that allow you to capture each of these aspects with artistry and creativity. In a perfect world, we’d have the finances and manpower to haul every available lens to the venue; in reality, we’re limited to a handful of lenses, each of which needs to be accessible, high-quality, and versatile.

Here is a subjective list of 6 must-have lenses for any given wedding.

ACCESS TO INDUSTRY-LEADING EDUCATION

Let us guide you in your photography journey with the best photography education and resources. Browse our complete, comprehensive solutions below and take the next step in your photography. BROWSE WORKSHOPS

[Check Out: Free Engagement Photography Guide]

1. 70-200mm

This is my favorite lens. It creates a beautiful bokeh (blur) at f/2.8, and the compression you get when you’re zoomed in from 150-200mm gives your image a look that’s hard to achieve with any other lens. It also allows you to get in close to the action without disrupting the moment.

The 70-200mm also allows you to capture candids, from the tears at a wedding ceremony to the laughs at a wedding reception.

Brand Options

Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR Lens

Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS Lens

Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO OS HSM Lens for Canon EF

Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 Lens for Canon EF

2. 50mm

This is another one of my favorite lenses. The 50mm focal length is great for portraits, and it can save the day when the light starts to drop; the wider aperture allows you to depend less on your flash and it creates a softer, more natural look for your subjects.

The 50mm also allows you to create stunning portraits, as the low aperture creates the shallow depth of field that softens your subjects’ skin and makes them pop off the page.

[Related: Canon RF 50mm F1.2L Lens | Hands-On Review]

Brand Options

Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G Lens

Sony Planar T* FE 50mm f/1.4 ZA Lens

Sigma 50mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

3. 24-70mm

The versatility of the 24-70mm zoom lens is critical for smaller spaces. For example, a tea ceremony in a Chinese wedding is commonly held in a living room. The 70-200mm would be too compressed for this situation, and the 50mm would not provide enough versatility, as you typically don’t have much room for movement.

Brand Options

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens

Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM Lens

Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

Tamron SP 24.-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 Lens for Canon EF

4. 100mm Macro

If your bride and groom are spending thousands of dollars on the details of a wedding, they are sure to appreciate you capturing the event in detail. With the 100mm Macro, you can capture detailed shots with the same quality and detail as product advertisements in magazines. Add your touch of lighting and creativity, and you get ring shots like the one below.

Be sure to check out Wedding Workshop 6 | Photographing The Details for an in-depth overview of how to capture details that get shared and published.

[Free Tutorial: How To Shoot Killer Wedding Details ]

Brand Options

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens

Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED Lens

Sony FE 90mm f/2.8 Macro G OSS Lens

Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro Lens for Canon EOS

Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 Di Macro 1:1 VC USD Lens for Canon EF

5. 16-35mm

Sometimes the 24-70mm lens just isn’t wide enough to capture everything you want. The ultra wide angle helps you capture the environment. Venue and landscape shots also provide a great addition to your wedding day coverage, as they set the scene for the day and allow you to take full advantage of the scenery, especially at beautiful venues.

Brand Options

Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 16-35mm f/4G ED VR Lens

Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM Lens

Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

6. 85mm

When this article was first published in 2009, the 85mm f/1.2 was in our honorable mention category, but we’ve since fallen in love with this focal length. The 85mm lens is a true portrait lens that doesn’t distort the image the way that some wider-angle lenses do (such as the 24mm or 35mm), especially along the edges of the frame. This lens also offers great compression and background bokeh at wider apertures.

Brand Options

Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8G Lens

Sony FE 85mm f/1.8 Lens

Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

Tamron SP 85mm f/1.8 Di VC USD Lens for Canon EF

The original article also included the 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye lens which we no longer use. Funny how quickly trends can change!

What do you think? What are your must-have lenses?

If you haven’t done so already, check out our Lens Wars series, the ultimate visual guide to real world differences between a whole host of Canon professional zoom lenses and primes. In total, we tested 25 Canon lenses valued at over $40,000 dollars starting from 17mm to 300mm focal length.

CREDITS: All photographs by Lin and Jirsa Photography are copyrighted and have been used with permission for SLR Lounge. Do not copy, modify or re-post this article or images without express permission from SLR Lounge and the artist.

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pauldeckerus · 6 years ago

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Guest Blog: Travel Photographer and Filmmaker Serge Ramelli

From Paris to Hollywood

Ever since I was a teenager I dreamed of being an artist, an actor, a director or just being involved in making movies.

As a teenager I remember seeing Star Wars: Return of the Jedi, and this totally changed my life. Not so much by the quality of movie, which I loved (I went to see it three times in the theater the first week of its release), but by the impact it created around me. Everyone at school was only talking about the movie, and I realized that a movie could have a huge impact on culture and society at large.

This dream kind of faded away as I grew up. I became a father early in life, and I got a job coding. But sitting at a desk was not a life for me, although I loved computers. I then got into sales for the travel industry, first selling sightseeing tours in Paris and later on working for my brother’s company selling websites to hotels.

In 2004 at the age 34 years old, I had four kids to take care of and lots of financial responsibilities. I was doing ok, but I started being obsessed again about working in movies. I decided to go back to acting class and to create some short movies to tackle the world of entertainment. Back then there was no DSLR that could shoot movies. To get anything decent you had to rent very expensive cameras that did not even have nice bokeh or depth of field and did not look like cinema at all.

All my efforts came out to nothing; my shorts were horrible and not finished, and the acting classes were not doing well. I felt like I would never make it.

As I was about to give up, I went on vacation with a whole bunch of friends in Guadeloupe. I had a small Sony point and shoot camera and started for the first time in my life to shoot digital photos. They were just snapshots of our holiday.

One night we were a little bored, nothing good on tv. One of my friends present, Kelvin Pimont asked me if I wanted to see what Photoshop could do. I had heard about the software but never saw it in action. Kelvin was a young designer who was a master Jedi at the software.

He starts showing how to select the sky and make it super dramatic, how to erase all the tourist around a portrait we had taken together and I couldn’t believe how powerful and how ‘easy’ the software seemed to be.

My first Photoshop experience before and after

That day I had a major epiphany that would change my life forever.

Until I could figure out how to make movies, I could at least create art with photography and make my photo sublime with the help of this magical Photoshop software!

When we came back home, I went into the biggest technical library in Paris (Eyrolles) and looked for all the books I could find on Photography and Photoshop. After buying a large number of really hard to understand books, I found a Photoshop book by Scott Kelby. Finally something I could understand.

I then started a project that went on for 5 years, taking dramatic photos of Paris after work in the most dramatic light possible. I would then watch tutorials on post processing and using Photoshop, and then later on Lightroom, I was able to make the photos even more dramatic!

This was a blast and my life made sense again. When I became 38 in 2008, I started doing interior design photography as I did a photo shoot in a hotel in Paris (in HDR) with the Seven Hotel. The hotel belonged to a hotel celebrity by the name of Philippe Vaurs.

Philippe was blown away by the photos. At the time there was very little retouching in interior design photography and most photographer were shooting on film. I added some subtle light effects in Lightroom that seemed to hit home

He started promoting my work to many hotel managers/owners and I started getting lots of job inquiries. So much that a few months later, I resigned from my VP of Sales duty to being a full time photographer.

This was a very scary decision for me, especially with four young kids to take care of. I made a lot less money but I was finally doing something that I loved.

My desire to make movies started coming back. When the Canon 5D Mark II came out, I decided to make a short action movie with it. Like everybody, I had seen Reverie from Vincent Laforet and was amazed by the cinema look we could get with it.

This movie is called Arthur, and it came out in 2010. A parkour action movie with a young friend named Arthur. He goes to school and sees a girl in trouble and will use some of his parkour power to save the day. The short was nominated in 4 festivals and won the public prize at Arles.

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I had no idea how much luck this movie was going to change my life, but more on this later.

I then started teaching photography; post processing in French on the web site Tuto.com and later in English on YouTube.

This became an immediate success. I became the second best author on Tuto and my YouTube channel became the most viewed on Lightroom.

After doing the parkour short, I started working for one the largest galleries in Paris called Yellow Korner and got an amazing deal with a German publisher named teNeues. Six years of taking over 100,000 photos of Paris starting paying off

They wanted me to take photos and make books on some of cities around the world. This happened at a perfect time. To be honest, at that time I started to get desperate financially, and my first couple of years as a photographer were very thin. I almost couldn’t pay my mortgage.

Over the next four years I did four coffee table books; Paris & New York in Black and White and Venice & Los Angeles in color

But the teaching on Tuto and the fine art deal saved the day! I was back at making enough money to have a comfortable life with my family.

In 2014, Kelvin, who had taught me Photoshop, relocated to Los Angeles and proposed me to move there with my family to pursue my goals of movie making. I could still do all my teaching from LA and travel the world for my galleries and publisher.

It took me a good year to move there and get an artist visa, but the 14th of October 2014, I moved to Los Angeles. Something I will never regret.

A few months after moving to LA, I became friend with a screenwriter by the name of Darius Stevens Wilhere. Darius had over 15 years of experience working on advertising, PSAs and documentaries.

I wrote a short movie called If Only. The story of a man desperately in love with a girl that he sees often and can never get the courage to talk to her, so he daydreams of being someone else to be able to meet her.

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Darius helped me shoot this short. While doing this movie, which included a fight scene, he met Arthur, the young stunt man that I had worked with earlier, and he liked him a lot. His kids had seen my short movie with him several times. One day Darius tells me that he would like to write a full feature film. A noble action martial arts movie called, ‘Once Upon A Time In Paris.’ A few months later, he showed me the script and I loved it. I love movies where the hero is powerful and very noble like IP Man or some Bruce Lee movies. I also love martial arts.

The movie is very positive and full of cool action.

The next year Darius wrote another script and asked me to play the lead as an actor. The movie is called The Hollywouldn’ts. The story of a French men trying to make it in Hollywood with no visa and a lot of attitude.

I produced the movie with some friends and the help of Canon France who gave us all the equipment for free. They liked ‘If Only’ and wanted to help us.

The movie came out this year on Amazon and had some cool reviews, you can see the trailer here:

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And the full movie is available on Amazon Prime.

After dreaming about making movies my entire life, I finally started something. A long wait.

Just for fun and for the photography community, we also did a short called Size Matters. A story of two photographers trying to seduce a girl by the size of their lens…

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About 8 months ago something happened on YouTube that I didn’t expect. The short movie Arthur, that has been doing okay on youtube for seven years, blew up completely, getting 500,000 to 700,000 views per month. It has just passed 6M views in very little time.

At the same time, my good friend Darius told me that he was moving to Mexico for an offer he couldn’t refuse. This was very sad news for me as I really enjoyed working with him and was hoping we would find a way to make more movies together.

As he left, I asked him if he would be okay with me directing the movie he wrote, Once Upon A Time In Paris (the full feature action inspired by my short movie).

Darius was very happy and accepted and wished me the best of luck. A few weeks later in a complete random fashion, I met an amazing well-established Hollywood producer.

A young man of age 28 that already had produced 41 movies. He just helped produce Rob Cohen’s (Fast & Furious, Triple XXX) and Rob Reiner’s (A Few Good Men) latest movies.

I approached him first with the ‘Once Upon A Time In Paris’ script. He loved the project and decided to produce it and we are now in the process of casting the movie. I’m so exited to shoot an action movie in Paris.

I have also been working on another crazy project, a sci-fi movie. I have had the idea of the script for a long time. After years thinking about it, I decided to write the script with the encouragement of my wife.

I also had another crazy idea, which was to shoot a mock-up of the opening scene of the movie. Something that had to be spectacular enough to get a studio executive intrigued and wanting to know more.

I went to the border of Mexico in the Imperial Dunes to shoot this mock up, you can see the final result here:

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To do all the special effects, I found an amazing 3D artist from Russia, Alex. You can see his Art Station page here and see how talented he is.

I showed this to the new producer and he was indeed intrigued. He asked to read the script and loved it. We are now working on some modification, but he wants to make it quickly.

Nothing done yet, but I find it amazing that by holding onto these crazy dreams, even at a later age that they could come through. I hope this encourages any artist out there to pursue their dreams. I cannot tell you how many times I though about giving up, or thinking I was not talented enough or not this or that. But there is something magical about pursuing one’s passion.

Thanks so much Scott for allowing me to express myself on your blog, you know how much you have been key in my life as a mentor.

You can see more of Serge’s work at SergeRamelliPhotos.com, learn from him at PhotoSerge.com, and keep up with him on YouTube, 500px, Instagram, and Facebook.

The post Guest Blog: Travel Photographer and Filmmaker Serge Ramelli appeared first on Scott Kelby's Photoshop Insider.

from Photography News https://scottkelby.com/guest-blog-travel-photographer-and-filmmaker-serge-ramelli/

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kinoalyse · 8 years ago

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Gear List

I think most professional photographers, especially portrait and landscape, aren't willing to admit that their gear does get them further than someone with a Rebel series camera and a lot of creativity. Anyone can take a good picture. Without gear, however, it's difficult to capture the world in many specific ways. If you leave suggestions, I'm happy to make tutorials on how to use/how I use any of the gear below. This list is set to change, but I will try and update as I introduce new gear, which includes a Manfrotto debate - is Manfrotto only a fad or is it quality enough for the pros?

I've included links to my gear, some of which are affiliate links, which gives me a 2-3% kickback (so I can stop using a two-legged tripod :D ).

Photography Gearset

Canon 5D Mark III - it may be the elder to the Mark IV, but it sure gets the job done. This is my second camera from my retired Rebel T2i of last year - I finally made the plunge and got serious. It's a staple of professional photographers.

G7 X Mark II - This compact camera is perfect for vlogging, awkward angles, and especially timelapses. It's a fully manual compact with a devastating amount of features, including preset click times, exposures, manual lighting, and let's certainly not forget, the manual focus. This is a dream camera for any vlogger on the market.

Canon 17-40mm f/4L - This is my general carry-around lens. It's sharp, relatively quick, and perfect for numerous situations, such as street, portrait, and some landscape situations.

Canon 24-105mm f/4L - This is my go-to for landscape with it's wide-angle feature. It's one of the least expensive wides on the market, but comparable in features. I hardly notice the missing aperture.

Canon 50mm f/1.4 - This is solidly locked to my camera in any situation I find myself with people. It's a bokeh monster.

Extra Canon Batteries - I have six at any given time 'cause chance can be a bitch. I have owned two aftermarket batteries, but they didn't sit in my camera correctly, and they drained rather fast. I highly recommend going brand on this one - Canon batteries have yet to fail me.

Discontinued Manfrotto Tripod - So... I worked for Best Buy when Manfrotto was introduced to me - it was the first time I had heard of them, and I asked the manager if he'd give me this cheap (comparatively), plastic $90 tripod with my Rebel T2i back in the stone age. It's been beaten half to death, four of the locks are broken, but it's a trooper. I would recommend grabbing something newer than this dinosaur.

Gorillapod - When you have a weak tripod, or you can't afford a $500+ setup, the Gorilla pod saves lives. It's sturdy when you manage to balance everything (which isn't so difficult), and it can hold the massive 5D Mark III without much hassle. I use it for low-angle wide shots, mostly.

Lee Filters - Oh, Lee. You've given me glass envy like no other. I've only purchased the Foundation Kit, which includes two 100x100mm neutral density filters, a 3.0 ND Big Stopper and a 1.8 ND Little Stopper. Practicing time wizardry is arguably the most fun I've had as a photographer.

Hoya Circular Polarizing Filter - I'd love to keep on my Lee glass fix and replace this one with a Lee Polarizer, but it does a decent job of reducing glare on water in close-proximity.

WhiBal Pocket Card - WhiBal helps you to balance the real colors of any scene, whether it's a moody wedding or a landscape. With one click, Lightroom can calibrate to a scene's true colors.

Lexar 16GB 800x Compact Flash - The amount of panic attacks I've had from the "NO CAPACITY" warnings on my camera are enough to age me fifty years. I would highly recommend buying a large Compact and SD card and mirroring them, because the capacity of mine makes it impossible to mirror - my SD cards remain secondary cards for when the CF fills.

Lowepro Tactic 450 AW - Solid, rugged, and it takes a lot of my crap. I've thrown it, tossed it on rocks, put in in trees, put it near a roaring ocean and prayed, and ran/climbed/trudged through pouring rain with this, and it's still keeping my gear safety tucked away. Bless.

Spider Holster - When you're climbing mountains, holding onto rocks, or shooting a wedding, sometimes you need your hands free. The holster is a quick means of getting your camera out of danger.

Post Work

WD My Passport 4TB - I have a NAS drive for backups that I do need to start using. Part of me is just waiting for the data apocalypse before backing up - I'm literally asking for it by not backing up. I use a Windows laptop, so purchasing an HDD is relatively easy. Sharing between devices is not as seamless as Apple, so if you can find a compact, shareable drive, I highly recommend that.

MSI Apache Pro - I really wanted to play a single video game before I got serious about photography, so I opted for a computer that would run Adobe programs and the game. Nowadays, I'm regretting it - I'm certainly not Apple loyal, but Adobe programs on Apple is just beautiful, easy, and I'm much more sure about my color settings. MSI does have a built-in color correcter, but I'll be second-guessing the accuracy until I buy a DataColor Spyder.

Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom - Adobe offers much more affordable options for your editing needs, including a yearly subscription to both Photoshop and Lightroom. Creative Cloud is also tossed in there, so you can easily share your work across Adobe products.

Adobe Premiere Pro - Offered again with a one-year subscription, this seriously powerful program is for editing video.

Outdoor Safety

I've been so pre-occupied with photography that I haven't been gearing up for longer days in harsh environments. Much of my childhood was spent in the Colorado wilderness, and I can't wait to spend more time in the wild. This list will be updated in the next year.

Wigwam Socks

Stormproof Matches

Microfiber Towel

Neewer 160 LED Lamp

Petzl Tikka XP 2 (discontinued)

Priorities

Canon 70mm-200mm - After this baby, I'll be set with my basic lens kit for a while. It's SO DIFFICULT to shoot landscape photography, with sweeping distances, with a lens that has a 105mm reach, to the point where I've adopted praying that the mountain in the distance is in focus. I shoot a few shots with the focus just barely touched each time in the hopes that one of them is correct. Sometimes I get lucky. Sometimes.

Lenspack - Because I'm as elegant and dexterous as a newborn giraffe trying to stand up for the first time, and this would help with switching lenses.

Manfrotro Tripod (no head) - I'm torn on this. A professional landscape photographer told me that Manfrotto is a joke, and no one seriously uses them, but every professional that I know on YouTube uses them. What's real? Let me know what you think.

Filter Pouch - Keep them secret. Keep them safe.

Rugged HDD - 'Cause I like to throw things around, and you might, too. Western Digital isn't about to survive a harsh environment... or me.

DJI Mavic Pro - Drone photography interests me in special regards for abandoned locations, but, man, I'd love to play with drone cinematography as well.

#gear #inventory #supplies #photography #camera #items #list #want #wishlist #photographer #personal

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picsartlover-blog · 8 years ago

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sudhirshivaram · 8 years ago

Photo

Rufous Tailed Lark, Bangalore Outskirts.... If you are a beginner in bird photography, then the best way to photograph ground birds is to lie down on the ground and get to the eye level of the bird. When you shoot at this angle, you need to ensure that there is no distraction in the background. This will give you a beautiful out of background bokeh and will enhance the image. When you stand up and shoot, the ground is the background and you will loose the impact. When I say eye level, the camera should be placed on the ground and shot... -- Sudhir Shivaram Photography - Helping you become a better photographer. It's always nice to receive these kind of testimonials on the video tutorials...hard work pays.... =========== Dear Sir, You do the best online video tutorials in photography like how all the videos are of perfect length and incredibly informative. Thank you so much for the new video tutorial in post processing segment. You show every little detail, have a good calm, clear voice, which makes it easy to follow, step by step on the side with Ps, NX-D open. What you are doing is really valuable: I was an amateur photographer who now can take good photos and do digital editing when I very much could not before. I am amazed at what I can do with my images now, and I don’t think I would have gotten here without your tutorials. Thank you so much for the videos and keep up the great work. Regards, Srinivas Raju ============== Register for my video tutorials and get access to more than 170 videos to watch and learn. Subscribe today: https://learn.sudhirshivaram.com/myvideocourse/0/allproducts. #BirdPhotographyTips #BirdPhotography #SudhirShivaramPhotography #SudhirShivaramPhotographyTips #canon📷 #natgeo #nature #natgeowild #wildlife #wildlifephotography #wildlifephotographytips #WildlifePhotographyTours

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slrlounge1 · 6 years ago

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6 Must-Have Lenses For Wedding Photography (2019 Update)

Here is a subjective list of 6 must-have lenses for any given wedding.

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[Check Out: Free Engagement Photography Guide]

1. 70-200mm

The 70-200mm also allows you to capture candids, from the tears at a wedding ceremony to the laughs at a wedding reception.

Brand Options

Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR Lens

Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS Lens

Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG APO OS HSM Lens for Canon EF

Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 Lens for Canon EF

2. 50mm

The 50mm also allows you to create stunning portraits, as the low aperture creates the shallow depth of field that softens your subjects’ skin and makes them pop off the page.

[Related: Canon RF 50mm F1.2L Lens | Hands-On Review]

Brand Options

Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G Lens

Sony Planar T* FE 50mm f/1.4 ZA Lens

Sigma 50mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

3. 24-70mm

Brand Options

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens

Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM Lens

Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

Tamron SP 24.-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 Lens for Canon EF

4. 100mm Macro

Be sure to check out Wedding Workshop 6 | Photographing The Details for an in-depth overview of how to capture details that get shared and published.

[Free Tutorial: How To Shoot Killer Wedding Details ]

Brand Options

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens

Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED Lens

Sony FE 90mm f/2.8 Macro G OSS Lens

Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro Lens for Canon EOS

Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 Di Macro 1:1 VC USD Lens for Canon EF

5. 16-35mm

Brand Options

Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 16-35mm f/4G ED VR Lens

Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 GM Lens

Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

6. 85mm

Brand Options

Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM Lens

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8G Lens

Sony FE 85mm f/1.8 Lens

Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for Canon EF

Tamron SP 85mm f/1.8 Di VC USD Lens for Canon EF

The original article also included the 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye lens which we no longer use. Funny how quickly trends can change!

What do you think? What are your must-have lenses?

from SLR Lounge https://www.slrlounge.com/6-must-have-lenses-for-wedding-photography/ via IFTTT

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slrlounge1 · 6 years ago

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10 Christmas Photography Ideas and Tips (Updated)

Photography and Christmas seem to go hand in hand. With all of your family and friends together, you have a chance to create imagery that will be shared online, physically printed out, mailed across the globe and cherished for generations with the power of digital imaging. So, here are 10 Christmas Photography Tips to make sure those photos turn out great.

1) bump your ISO

Find the right ambient-to-flash balance, even if that means bumping the ISO to 1600, 3200 and even 6400 depending on your camera body. On full frame professional cameras, like the Canon 5D Mark IV, Nikon D850, or Sony A9, don’t be afraid to go up to 6400. On entry level cameras like the Canon Rebel or Sony a6500, keep your ISOs at 1600 and below to avoid too much image degradation. The images below were taken at ISO 3200 on Canon 5D Mark IV.

2) Use Lower Apertures

Create beautiful bokeh in your Christmas background lights by dropping your apertures. The image below is shot on a Canon 5D Mark III with a Canon 50mm F1.2 Lens at F2.0. Of course, you have to be very accurate with your focus at such shallow depth of fields, but if you can get your subjects sharp, the low apertures will really make your images pop and bring out those beautiful background Christmas lights. If your lens is capable, try staying at f2.8 or below.

3) Use Natural Light (avoid flash)

If you’re looking to create natural, warm and moody images, make sure you turn off your flash for some (if not most) of your photos. This allows the ambient light of the Christmas lights or fireplace to show up in your images and allows parts of the scene to fall off into shadow.

Image Courtesy of Darryl Wong Photography.

4) Use Christmas Props

For Christmas portraits, consider including fun Christmas props like Santa hats and cute holiday outfits. It’s tempting to lounge around in pajamas all day, but a little bit of extra planning will go a very long way. The following image is from a Bokeh Overlay tutorial by Tanya Smith.

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5) Get Close

Putting the subject of your photo closer to the camera can help increase the amount of blur in the out-of-focus parts of the image, which works great for small details like Christmas ornaments. Be sure to keep your apertures low and consider using a macro lens to get in even closer while still being able to focus. Again, consider turning off your flash to maintain the natural, moody feel.

Image Courtesy of Darryl Wong Photography.

6) Use Fun and Silly Poses

The Holiday season is a time of fun and cheer. Be sure to step away from those classic smile-into-the-camera poses and get silly. As the photographer, whether you’re hired professionally to capture a holiday event or you’re simply photographing your family, it’s your job to get great reactions, smiles, and poses from your subjects.

7) Consider a Photobooth

Photobooths are getting easier and easier to set up. There are free Photobooth apps on your iPad as well as a variety of simple, inexpensive Photobooth Software. For large holiday parties, these are a great addition to the festivities; and they even work well for small family gatherings.

8) Stay Active and Ready for Great Reactions

Stay ready and actively anticipate smiles and laughs. Keep your camera up as your family and friends open their gifts and snap away at the reactions. Some of your best shots from Christmas will be the non-posed, in-the-moment images.

9) Consider Creating a GIF

GIFs are great for showing a series of events in a sequence. Combining images from these moments can result in hilarious GIFs that your family will love. See the example below from our recent Lin and Jirsa Holiday Party.

10) Consider Creating a Collage

Rather than posting 10 individual photos, consider creating a collage. In our world of social media, it’s easier to Instagram, Facebook, and Tweet one picture that sums up the party than to clutter up newsfeeds and timelines with multiple images.

11) Use Advanced Techniques like Long Exposures and Composites

To create beautiful starry effects in the Christmas lights, consider using small apertures and long exposures. This conflicts with our first tip of dropping down your aperture, but this tip is used to create an entirely different look. With small apertures, you’re utilizing diffraction to create start bursts. If you’re including people or other moving subjects in your photo, consider merging multiple images in a composite. See this Christmas Composite Tutorial Here.

Christmas Photo Tips Conclusion

The most important rule for Christmas photos is to have fun. It’s a wonderful time to play with the bokeh of Christmas lights and utilize elaborate, festive sets. It’s also a great time to get meaningful family photos, as it seems harder and harder to get all of our loved ones in one place at one time. Be sure to take advantage of this wonderful time of year and please share your results with us below in the comments or over on our Facebook Page.

Please let us know what other tips you might have in the comments below.

from SLR Lounge http://bit.ly/2V8HRSw via IFTTT

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pauldeckerus · 7 years ago

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How to Make and Shoot a Bokehlicious Tin Foil Backdrop

I love bokeh and wanted to incorporate it into some upcoming holiday-themed beauty shoots. Well, I didn’t want to shoot in the cold and I really didn’t want to buy strings of lights (or generally spend any money at all) so I put together this great backdrop with basically just tinfoil.

I was really happy with how it turned out so, I decided to write this little tutorial on how to make and shoot a tinfoil backdrop for some bokehlicious shots.

What I used for this project:

Tinfoil

Foam core/cardboard

Lighting stands

Clip mount

Speed lights

Canon 5D Mark III

A fast lens

Ring light / soft box

I lightly scrunched up tin foil then unraveled it, then I used double sided tape to stick it to a 32×40 foam core board.

I used a lighting stand with a clip mount to hold the foam core in the perfect height for the backdrop. Make sure you have your aperture set wide open in order to make the tinfoil out of focus, but don’t open it too wide or your bokeh will look too large and blend together. Below are some test photos with my dog Macro using only window light.

I had a fellow photographer friend come sit for me to help practice some lighting setups for a beauty shoot I would be photographing later that week. I decided I wanted to play with my speed lights, so I lit him with a ring light/softbox (that I got from Wish for only about $20) and lit the tinfoil backdrop with a second bare speed light.

My settings for these photos were f2.8 1/100 ISO 400 with my 85mm lens. I had two-speed lights, One aimed at the backdrop behind the subject set at 1/128 power, the other was attached to the ring light facing Joe. I also thought it would be fun to use gels to add a pop of color.

Tadaa! My final image after editing, perfect for Mums holiday gift.

About the author: Nicola Yardy is a portrait photographer and retoucher. The opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author. You can find more of Yardy’s work on her website. This article was also published here.

from Photography News https://petapixel.com/2018/12/17/how-to-make-and-shoot-a-bokehlicious-tin-foil-backdrop/

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