#chiffon collection 2015

[mode-genesis]

The Legacy of Meadham Kirchhoff

by MODE GENESIS

Known for their outrageous interloping of romanticism and rebellion, Meadham Kirchoff had become an iconic brand in the early to mid-2000s. The brand was founded by designers Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchoff, both graduates from Central Saint Martins, which gained fame through its extravagant expression of whimsicality. An interview by Glamcult with Kirchoff verbalizes how he designs from instinct in a state of “aborted happiness,” and both feel the fashion industry is “based on a repetition of ideas, often aimed at product placement.”

Their inspirations ranging from Victorian dolls to Courtney Love lookalikes in the SS 2012 show, the duo expressed a fresh approach to fashion which became one of the signatures of their brand identity.

Each show transported you into a carefully crafted almost theatrical performance with scent, visuals, light, and music accompanying. Their rebellious spirit brought new design innovation through patchwork dresses in velvet and leather, stacked glittering platform shoes, and a runway decorated with what looked like blood-dipped tampons. Each piece in their collection was carefully made through tailoring research and using techniques such as Elizabethan lacework. The handwork which came in forms of hand embroidery showed in garments in almost all seasons, and detailed construction of each piece became a standard for the brand

Although their womenswear lines achieved most of the media attention, their menswear emerged as out of the ordinary on the London scene. The collections set the direction of modern-day menswear, anticipating the arrival of gender-fluid casting and boy-meets-girl styling. One of their final shows, SS 15, was reclaimed as a celebration of different bodies, genders, and races. The use of rubber, chiffon, color, and layered drapery was an ode to the liberation they stand for. They were chosen as LVMH Young Fashion Designers but weren’t included as finalists so in their show notes they elaborated, “Fuck LVMH corporate fashion,” which is admirable considering the nature of the fashion industry, LVMH, and celebrity culture. As a Dazed article states, “Because fashion doesn’t just have to be about seasonal trends; it can, at its best, be a broader reflection of society, and like riot grrl, BodyMap, Westwood, and Leigh Bowery before them, Meadham Kirchhoff is making clothes for the people they love: the dykes, fags, slappers, and freaks.”

The brand met its demise when most of their clothes they were making weren’t sellable; the market was too niche, and production costs of garments became too high. While it was believed for Meadham Kirchoff as a whole for their clothes to be either too expensive or costume-like, critics praised them, and many designers looked at them as an inspiration. As a Dazed Article states, “They were showing detailed lace on par and on time with the wonders that Alexander McQueen was showing on its runway. Some have even likened the brand’s jackets—particularly from years ago—as foreshadowing those that made Christophe Decarnin a star at Balmain.”

Most of the brand’s pieces have been long lost, as the archive was taken by their landlord and sold in 2015, leaving only pictures and memories of what once was. Since the brand shut down, the duo has gone on separate paths. Meadham launched a new label called Blue Roses, and Kirchoff has become a stylist and menswear consultant. While Meadham Kirchoff could not have survived in the corporate fashion world, they live on as a martyr of sorts through their fun, cheeky, whimsical yet rebellious spirit, which inspires the future of the industry and may even have been ahead of its time.

References:

[styleofdiamandis]

MUSIC VIDEO: FROOT

The music video for Marina's "FROOT," directed by Chino Moya and styled by Soki Mak, offers a visually stunning and captivating experience. Filmed at the historic Eltham Palace, the video serves as the visual accompaniment to the titular track from Marina's album. Drenched in Old Hollywood glamour, Marina transforms into a captivating siren, showcasing a timeless elegance reminiscent of the golden era of cinema.

We're starting off strong with some stunning jewelry pieces from a bunch of British labels. First off, Marina's opulent bracelet. This gold vermeil, green crystal and faux pearl beauty was seen on London-based Thai designer Sorapol by Sorapol Chawaphatnakul's Fall/Winter 2014 runway show titled "Malefic".

Her Pina pineapple citrine and garnet drop earrings are from Gemporia's "Copa" collection, inspired by the festival culture and radiant colors of Rio de Janeiro! 🍍

Marina’s large ring, she wore throughout the video, is the ASSYA London Oriental gold vermeil long ring with multicolour gemstones.

In the second look, she radiates glamour and sophistication as she ascends a staircase, adorned in a stunning ensemble from the aforementioned Sorapol collection. Dressed in an intricate glittering gold crocodile skin gown, Marina captivates the audience with her fashion-forward choice. The gown features a two slits, a boat neck, adding a touch of timeless elegance, while long sleeves contribute to the overall refined aesthetic.

My favorite look from the entire video is the little pink number titled "Paeonia" from Turkish designer Zeynep Kartal's Spring/Summer 2015 "Efflorescence" runway show – a silk bodysuit with floral embroidery paired with a chiffon cape featuring a pearl button.

Last but definitely not least, the insane metallic silver lamé mermaid gown with boat neck and long sleeves. A custom number created by emerging designer Clio Peppiatt exclusively for our girl!

[dear-science]

Dries Van Noten S/S 2015:

Inspired by John Everett Millais’ painting, "Ophelia", Dries Van Noten set his romantic Spring Summer 2015 collection in full Pre-Raphaelite glory. Creating the mood for the show was no small task, as a collaboration with artist Alexandra Kehayoglou gave birth to the incredibly detailed mossy forest floor runway, specially created by from different carpets. The magical woodland setting was also an undoubtable nod to Shakespeare’s “A Midsummer Night’s Dream”, as his fairy like dresses of tiered chiffon floated down the runway. The theatrics and otherworldly presentation of this stunning collection was further enhanced by the show’s finale – models settling down to lay comfortably and peacefully on the mossy floor.  

ph. Elise Toïdé

[shopofthemoment]

Check out this listing I just found on Poshmark: Stella McCartney Runway Mixed Media Cut Out Dress Pleated Silk Asymmetrical Hem.

[omagazineparis]

Van Cleef & Arpels : l'histoire d'une légende

Van Cleef & Arpels est une maison de joaillerie française fondée en 1906 par Alfred Van Cleef et son beau-frère Salomon Arpels. Depuis plus d'un siècle, la marque est connue pour ses bijoux élégants et intemporels qui ont séduit des générations de femmes. Les collections iconiques de Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels est célèbre pour ses collections emblématiques, chacune ayant une signification particulière. - Alhambra, créée en 1968, est devenue un symbole de chance et de prospérité grâce à ses motifs en forme de trèfle à quatre feuilles. - Perlée, quant à elle, est caractérisée par des perles délicates qui ajoutent une touche de sophistication à chaque pièce. - Frivole, introduite en 2015, est inspirée de la beauté florale. Elle incarne l'esprit romantique de la marque, avec ses motifs de fleurs délicates et ses diamants éblouissants. - La collection Sweet Alhambra, lancée en 2007, est une version miniature de la célèbre collection Alhambra, idéale pour les occasions décontractées. Les techniques de fabrication de Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels est connu pour sa maîtrise de la haute joaillerie, utilisant des techniques de fabrication artisanales et des matériaux de qualité supérieure. La maison utilise des diamants de la plus haute qualité, ainsi que des pierres précieuses telles que des émeraudes, des rubis et des saphirs. Van Cleef & Arpels est une maison française de haute joaillerie renommée pour ses techniques de fabrication innovantes et son savoir-faire exceptionnel. Une de leurs techniques les plus célèbres est le Mystery Set, breveté en 1933, qui permet de sertir des pierres précieuses sans griffe ni autre composant métallique visible. Les designers de Van Cleef & Arpels allient imagination et expertise pour créer des pièces de joaillerie uniques et emblématiques de leur style. La maison est également connue pour ses montres à Complications Poétiques®, qui combinent savoir-faire traditionnel et prouesses techniques. Les créations de Van Cleef & Arpels sont influencées par le temps, la nature et l'amour, et elles utilisent divers matériaux et techniques pour refléter ces thèmes. Les artisans de Van Cleef & Arpels sont des maîtres dans l'art de la gravure et de la taille des pierres précieuses, créant des pièces uniques qui sont de véritables œuvres d'art. Lire aussi : Quelle est la plus belle robe rouge portée au cinéma ? Choisir et entretenir ses bijoux Van Cleef & Arpels Le choix d'un bijou Van Cleef & Arpels est une décision importante, et il est essentiel de prendre en compte plusieurs facteurs. Il est important de considérer votre style personnel ainsi que l'occasion pour laquelle vous porterez le bijou. L'entretien de vos bijoux Van Cleef & Arpels est également crucial pour leur longévité. Il est recommandé de nettoyer vos bijoux avec une brosse douce et de l'eau tiède savonneuse, puis de les sécher avec un chiffon doux. Évitez de porter vos bijoux pendant les activités physiques et gardez-les dans un endroit sûr lorsque vous ne les portez pas. Van Cleef & Arpels est une marque légendaire qui a captivé les femmes depuis plus d'un siècle grâce à ses bijoux intemporels et élégants. Avec des collections emblématiques, des techniques de fabrication de haute qualité et des conseils pour choisir et entretenir vos bijoux, Van Cleef & Arpels est la marque de joaillerie idéale pour toute femme à la recherche de qualité et de sophistication. Read the full article

[sazc94]

The Three Times James "Bucky" Barnes Broke your heart.

This was inspired by @msmarvelwrites 2k Writing Challenge because I'm a sucker for Taylor Swift especially sad Taylor Vibes. I chose the all too well lyrics.

Apparently, I can't do anything small so it's in two parts. Pairs Bucky x Reader and Pietro x Reader. (Not at the same time)

Part 1 Here

No smut but mentions of sex so 18+ Themes: highschool, cheating, college/uni. Friendship

Words 3368 it's Suburban AU.

2015 You finished up Uni staring in the school's production of Rock of Ages, Playing Sherry opposite Loki’s drew. Loki also moved to New York staying with his half brother Thor Oddinson. You stayed in touch with Loki and Pietro. The thing that took you by surprise however was six months after moving to Detroit, whilst working for Bruce Banner's start-up you received a DM on Instagram from Bucky. He heard from Sam and Jane that you were now living in Detroit and he was moving to the area after being scouted by the Detroit Lions. Hey Y/N, I hope you’re good. I know this is random and please feel free to tell me where to go, but I was wondering if you wanted to get a drink sometime? It would be great to see you again and catch up. Let me know. So you replied feeling like maybe after all this time it might be good to finally hear Bucky’s apology. Pietro and you had stayed in touch but you knew he was dating someone else. Her name was Sue Storm, she seemed like a nice girl, very smart and could easily give Pietro a run for his money. After hearing Bucky’s apology, you two started to become friends again, he invited you along to his games always offering to secure you two tickets if you wanted to bring someone. He was a machine on the football field, earning the strange nickname The Winter Soldier.

2016

Everything changed in the summer of 2016 though when Bucky’s mother passed away suddenly in June. She had practically helped raise you, so you attended the funeral with Bucky. You stayed with him in the guest room in his childhood house, helping him sort through belongings and paperwork. Bucky’s dad had died when you were 8 and Bucky like you was an only child. You took in food from neighbours wanting to pay their respects. You held his hand squeezing it in comfort during the funeral, assuring him you were there for him. Two days after the funeral you and Bucky had finished packing up the final boxes, you were upstairs, and he was downstairs being awfully quiet. You went looking for him only to find him sat on the living room floor. He was crying holding a picture of you and him one Halloween when you were 9, Bucky had gone as Superman and you as Supergirl. Your mums stood behind you, both of them chuckling whilst you and bucky tried to out pose one another. Your heart swelled. Your Grandad had died in November and god how your heart had ached, but to lose your mum, you couldn’t even begin to imagine. “Hey, hey. It's alright I’m here Buck”, you said cradling his head to your chest whilst he sobbed. You stayed like that for an unidentifiable amount of time before Bucky’s crying eased. He looked up at you blinking away the stray tears, the familiar blue in his eyes pulling you in. Your not sure who kissed who first but that was how you and Bucky ended up sleeping together.

You and Bucky officially got back together in July. Your Grandma passed away in September, the start of football season. Bucky was unable to attend the funeral, he tried god he tried. Pietro made it though. He and Sue had broken up not that he told you. By the time November rolled around things were good between you and Bucky. Wanda’s fashion label Scarlett Witch was taking off and she invited you and Bucky out to join the rest of the old gang at the official launch in December of 2016. You accepted and for the pair of you assuring Bucky, there would be no awkwardness. Pietro was casually dating and was bringing a date called Crystal.

You arrived at the party in NYC completely blown away. Wanda had asked you to wear a piece from the evening wear collection, a Black strapless dress, the top if form-fitting made from chiffon fabric, the skirt cut out the front made of black tulle sparkled with the touches of glitter. It felt like you were wearing the Milky Way. After stopping to pose for photos for the press you made your way inside. The party was being held inside a beautiful gothic building. “Y/n! You look absolutely amazing, thank you so much for wearing this and of course for coming” Wanda practically pounced on you the minute she spotted you. “Bunny! I agree absolutely amazing. Bucky, you don’t look too bad yourself” Pietro said kissing you on the cheek. Pietro was wearing a deep blue suit, it made his hair and ice-blue eyes pop. Bucky had opted for the simple black tux to match you and your dress. He almost looked good enough to eat. After grabbing a glass of champagne, Wanda and Pietro took you to the rest of the gang who had made it. Jane was here with a date, Thor Oddinson you recognised him from the few times he had been to see you and Loki in shows. Carol was here too. Peter Parker was working the event as a photographer he had brought a date a lovely young lady called Mary Jane Watson. After about 45 minutes of schmoozing and catching up, you went to the ladies room. When you exited you were a little taken aback by the sight that confronted you, a redhead was hanging of Bucky’s arm chuckling away with Thor and Jane. You could only see the back of her from where you were standing. You decided to walk over and introduce yourself. However, when you got closer to the group the woman started to look vaguely familiar.

“Hey babe,” Bucky said as you approached quickly removing his arm from the redhead. Babe. That was weird he never called you babe. His blue eyes looked like they were hiding something. “Lady Y/N. This is Lady Natasha” Thor said introducing you. The redhead turned to shake your hand smiling at you with a knowing look. “Lovely to finally meet the infamous Y/N,” she said. “I told Bucky how disappointed I was not to meet you when I was in the City in September. I’m so sorry to hear about the passing of your grandmother. Bucky kept me company whilst I was around on some Business” her voice sounded harmless, sweet and pleasant. Genuine. Her eyes and knowing smirk told a different story. Bucky looked at you, the familiar betrayal in his eyes, pleading with you. “I was just telling Bucky, I’ve been offered this amazing opportunity in Detroit so Ill be moving there in February, isn’t that wonderful?” she asked. You smiled taking a swig of your champagne. Jane looked at you, then Bucky. You shook your head.

That was the second time Bucky Barnes broke your heart. He assured you that they hadn’t slept together, however had admitted that he had kept her visit from you and that she had kissed him. “Did you kiss her back?” you asked pacing around your hotel room. “Doll, please what does it matter,” he asked reaching out for you. His calloused hands once again burning your skin with his betrayal. The fact he had chosen not to answer was all the confirmation you needed. You had left him in the hotel room. Loki had been unable to make the event due to being in a small play off-Broadway, but you had texted him asking if he wanted to get a drink. You had told him everything and he had walked you back to your hotel room. You were drunk and distressed. Bucky had opened the door his blue eyes flashing with jealousy when the handsome black-haired gentleman had his arms around you. “Easy James, if anything was going to have happened between us, it would have happened in freshman year of college,” Loki said helping you into your room. After you and Bucky returned to Detroit you guys took a break for a few months.

2017

Natasha’s job conveniently happened to be working as a fitness instructor at the Detroit Lions. After 4 months you and Bucky got back together in March of 2017. Things were going great, Natasha seemed to have released whatever hold she had on Bucky. Bucky was performing well with the Lions, his new teammate, Steve Rogers nicknamed Captain America seemed to have caught the eye of many ladies including Natasha. He however didn’t seem that interested in her and had his sights set on a girl from his home in Brooklyn her name was Peggy. Steve and you hit off due to your mutual disinterest in Miss Romanoff, he had come up with a nickname for her, he called her Black Widow because she seemed to devour the men in her life. Banners start-up tech company had taken off with thanks to your ad campaigns. You were also performing in the local summer show of Mamma Mia playing Sophie. In the summer of 17, Peggy Carter came to visit Steve, turned out she was from Britain originally. You liked Peggy and her no-nonsense approach. During July, the four of you went on lots of double dates like you were high schoolers again. For Steve’s birthday which happened to be the fourth of July, the four of you attended an event being put on by the Detroit lions. You had a great evening mixing with various teammates and their families. You even warmed to Natasha a bit that afternoon.

As the evening rolled around a giant cake was brought out to celebrate Steve’s birthday. Followed by a firework show. Everyone made their way to various blankets and cushions set out at the opposite end of the stadium. Somewhere along the way you and Bucky got separated. You didn’t worry too much, to begin with as you’d both drifted off to interact with various people throughout the event, however by the time the fireworks started Bucky was nowhere to be seen. You started to think the worst until you spotted Natasha’s red hair on the other side of the stadium flirting with a gaggle of players from various other teams who were invited. Confident Bucky would return shortly you turned your attention to the sky watching with a goofy grin, things were finally settled between you and Bucky. As the fireworks went on you decided to snap a few shots on your phone loving the way the sky lit up with bright colours. The Detroit Lions didn’t do things in small doses, so the firework display ended up going on for about an hour and a half. After about 45 minutes Bucky returned from wherever he had been slipping down behind you pulling your back flush to his chest. He stroked small circles on your arms. His rough calloused skin making you shiver from the contact.

In September you were approached by Tony Stark’s PA Pepper Potts, they had seen your campaigns for Bruce Banner and Tony was interested in headhunting you. Your contract with Bruce was up in October. You initially shot the idea down. Why would you want to leave Michigan? Your family home was a short 20-minute drive away, Bucky was doing well with the Lions. Peggy Carter was moving here after Steve had proposed at the end of Summer. It seemed ludicrous. After initially shooting down the offer. Pepper contacted you, doubling their initial offer. The offer was tempting, so you told Miss Potts you would think it over the weekend. There was no harm in bringing it up with Bucky, maybe a move would do you both good, Natasha seemed to have gotten under Bucky’s skin again. You left the office early that day. You didn’t bother to text Bucky figuring you could surprise him when he got home from training with a home-cooked meal. You stopped off to get some supplies to make Lasagne before heading over to his apartment figuring you could just let yourself in. You had called Wanda on the drive over through your cars Bluetooth. She and Vision were engaged, and she wanted you to be one of her bridesmaids. Partway through the call, Pietro had walked into Wanda’s office so you had told them both about the job offer. When you got to Bucky’s you immediately recognised the Black Widows black Mercedes. “huh, that’s weird, I wonder what she’s doing here,” you said out loud “who’s where?” asked Wanda. “oh um nothing, look I got to go I just got to Buck’s and I’m cooking dinner, going to talk to him about Tony’s offer,” you said before hanging up. You were so blind-sighted by Natasha’s car you didn’t clock Bucky’s Motorcycle parked in the corner of the small parking lot. You grabbed your bags walking up to Bucky’s figuring that you could invite Natasha in if need be whilst you waited for Buck to come home.

If you had noticed Bucky’s bike, then just maybe you would have been more prepared for the following events you unlocked Bucky’s apartment and you found clothes strewn everywhere, his jeans. A white Blouse. His boxer trunks. A Black lacy bra, that definitely didn’t belong to you. At first, you were so shocked by what you saw that you didn’t hear the moans coming from the bedroom. It was like you were possessed you carried your bag of groceries as you walked in a daze to the bedroom, you opened the door and found Bucky once again cheating on you. He and Natasha were in the throws of fucking each other, you found Natasha with her back to you, wrapped around Bucky’s waist. Bucky sat upright facing you however his eyes closed whilst he drank in the pleasure. You felt your heartbreak as you dropped your bag of groceries. The bag made a thud as it hit the ground, alerting Bucky to your presence. His eyes flew open connecting with yours. Natasha however didn’t stop riding your boyfriend’s cock. Bucky tried to push her off him, but you were already storming out the door. You grabbed your bag and left Bucky’s spare key in the door. Bucky grabbed a pair of joggers and slippers before chasing after you. Bucky’s apartment was on the second floor. All the apartments on the second floor opened outside to a walkway.

“Really James?!?” you turned round to face him before he could even say your name. “Was once not enough? Did you not hurt me enough the first time?” You asked. You could feel the anger threatening to burst in the way of tears. Bucky went to speak, his blue eyes once again filled with guilt. “How long?!” you asked quietly. Bucky moved towards you tugging on your wrist. “Come on Y/N, come back inside it’s starting to rain, we can discuss this inside,” he said, his eyes pleading with you. At that moment Natasha appeared in Bucky’s open doorway. She looked pleased with herself, wearing Buck’s shirt. The site made you want to vomit. “How. Long?!” you asked again through gritted teeth. Bucky faltered. “Since July. Since the 4th of July event,” he admitted rubbing his hand over his face. At that moment you felt completely and utterly broken. “I’m done, James. Do you hear me? I am done. We are through. You two.” You pointed to Natasha. “You two are welcome to one another”. That was the third time Bucky broke your heart.

You took the job working for Stark Industries. Your contract had ended with Bruce but your lease on your apartment was up until January so you stayed working for him until December of 2017 You said your goodbyes to Steve and Peggy in January and moved across the country to your new life in the big apple.

December 2018

The unknown number flashed up on your phone for the third time that day. You sighed before answering it. “Hello, Y/N Speaking how can I help?” you asked fiddling with your jumper. “Hey Doll, it's me. Don’t hang up.” Your breath caught in your throat. James Buchanan Barnes. You hadn’t spoken to him in over a year. He hadn’t even attempted to reach out to you after you split up mailing your things back to you, well all but a scarf. In January shortly before you’d moved to NYC you’d seen a magazine article saying the Winter Soldier was dating Natasha Romanoff. It confirmed what you already knew deep down, which was that you might be okay but you were not fine at all.

You’d worked so hard to forget about him long enough to forget why you needed to. He had better have a damn good reason for calling you. “You have 5 minutes,” You said getting up from the sofa you were sat on. “look, I know I fucked up with you. In more than one way on more than one occasion. I think it was the pressure to be the perfect couple, you know lifelong friends to more. And well I guess I just freaked out, and then I fell for her, but she didn’t want me, and when you gave us another shot, I thought I could convince myself to love you the way I did her, the way you had loved me. But truth be told, it was always Natasha after that summer. I know you deserve better, and I truly am sorry for hurting your doll. But I wanted you to hear it from me before you read about it in the news. She’s pregnant and also, we’re getting married.” Bucky said. You stood in the middle of the apartment stunned. “So, you call me up again, just to break me like a promise. So casually cruel in the name of being honest?” you whispered. Squeezing back the tears. “Well fuck you, James.” With that, you hung up. Of course, Bucky tried to ring right back, you declined the call, falling to your knees in pain. You had never asked for any of this, you had been quite happy being Bucky’s best girl as his friend. He was the one who kissed you at that prom.

You weren’t still in love with Bucky, you had moved on, forgetting about him and the pain he caused you. He hadn’t needed to call you, he could have given you a heads up through one of your mutual friends, but no. he had to go and stick the knife in. After lying there like a crumpled-up piece of paper and letting the tears fall. You picked yourself up. You washed your face and made yourself a mug of hot chocolate grabbing a Christmas cookie from the tin before making your way over to the bay window. You sat down taking in the view. The traffic had eased off a bit as things wound down for the evening. The snow had been falling pretty much all day. After about 15 minutes of sitting peacefully the key in the lock turned. You didn’t move you were incredibly content where you were, even if you could use a refill in the hot chocolate department.

“Hey handsome how was your day?” you asked not taking your eyes away from the street below. A group of kids were throwing snowballs at one another. You smiled to yourself enjoying their innocence. “It was good, busy” he replied taking off his coat and walking over to join you at the window seat. Wrapping his arms around you and pulling you close. “How about you Bunny? I saw a news alert. I’m guessing you know about the engagement?” he asked. You hummed a response. Before shuffling yourself around to face him. His floppy silver-blonde hair covering those beautiful ice blue eyes, they looked at you with such love and endearment, they also spoke a silent promise that he would never hurt you the way that Bucky had. You kissed him gently on the lips before standing up. “Come on Quicksilver let's shower before the Stark Christmas Gala,” you said pulling your boyfriend along behind you shooting him a knowing grin. His nickname may be Quicksilver for athletic reasons but there were some things he liked to take his time with.

A/N If you stuck with me through all this, I am truly sorry. I'm gonna go cry

Tagging the bestie @lannycleave

[kny111]

by Janine Francois

What happens to a dream deferred? Does it dry up like a raisin in the sun? Or fester like a sore…” asks Langston Hughes in the haunting lines of his poem, “Harlem.” Written nearly 70 years ago, Hughes’ words remain just as relevant as ever.

“Harlem” is typically read as referring to Black aspirations—the crushing of dreams, and particularly, the promise of racial equality by American society at large. However, his words here may apply to literal Black dreams as well. A growing amount of research has found that Black Americans experience significantly less slow-wave sleep—the kind required for actual, rejuvenating rest—than white Americans. The lack of slow-wave sleep can cause serious mental and physical health issues, including premature death. This disparity, or “sleep gap,” has been the subject of numerous studies, some of which have found that Black Americans are five times more likely than white Americans to get less than six hours of sleep per night, are more likely than white Americans to feel sleepy during the day, and on average get an hour less sleep per night than white Americans.

There’s no scientific consensus on what, specifically, causes the sleep gap. As reported by The Atlantic in 2015, however, leading theories point to both experiences of discrimination and structural inequality—aspects of one’s environment that make one feel unsafe and insecure—as root causes. As Benjamin Reiss pointed out in the LA Times in 2017, Black Americans have lacked access to sufficient sleeping environments since slavery: “Aboard the ships of the transatlantic slave trade, African captives were made to sleep en masse in the hold, often while chained together. Once in the New World, enslaved people were usually still made to sleep in tight quarters, sometimes on the bare floor, and they struggled to snatch any sleep at all while chained together in the coffle. Slaveholders systematically disallowed privacy as they attempted round-the-clock surveillance, and enslaved women were especially susceptible at night to sexual assault from white men.”

Just as sleep deprivation was used as a means to control slaves, the modern-day sleep gap continues to weigh down many Black people, like me, today. I can feel it in me: It breaks my spirit, as I exist in between half-conscious states; never fully awake or asleep, never able to distinguish between the two. This may be the true power of racism—its force encompasses everything, seeping into our dreams at night and deflating our capacity to envision a better future. How can the radical Black imagination rebel against a system that so thoroughly seeks to destroy us? What would a future look like where we are liberated, reparations are paid, and we can finally rest?

Last year_,_ I attended an exhibition called Black Power Naps that begins to answer those questions_._ After debuting at Matadero Madrid Contemporary Art Center in Spain, where I saw it, the exhibition has since travelled to Performance Space New York, where it is on view through January, 2019. The ongoing project by Black Latinx artists Fannie Sosa (referred to as Sosa) and niv Acosta presents a series of interactive installations that invite Black visitors to lie, nap, relax, and play, providing “deliberate energetic repair,” as the artists put it, on the dime of white cultural institutions.

I and many other Black people are constantly aware of our Blackness in hyper-white environments, including art institutions. Elijah Anderson, a prominent ethnographer and Yale lecturer, describes us as “black interlopers” in his 2015 essay, “The White Space”: “When present in the white space, blacks reflexively note the proportion of whites to blacks...and... may adjust their comfort level accordingly; when judging a setting as too white, they can feel uneasy and consider it to be informally ‘off limits.’” As W. E. B. Du Bois suggests, we experience double consciousness, where we simultaneously become aware of both our Blackness, and the responses to it, in white spaces. The surveillance our bodies experience in art institutions—from being followed around in their gift shops to being watched by the gaze of their gallery attendants, and all amidst an undiverse collection of artworks and workforce—informs our feelings of exclusion. But perhaps Black Power Naps does something different: It is designed with Black people in mind, inverting a white art institution into a “Black space,” where the Black body is the center around which all the show’s installations conceptually orbit.

To enter Black Power Naps, you must take off your shoes. Removing one’s shoes is an act associated with sacred places—a symbolic gesture of leaving the world’s toxicity behind. Once inside the room, you see six “healing stations” before you, each “invented,” as the artists put it, to evoke different bodily sensations through physical contact. Each is adorned with silks, satins, and chiffons in delicate pastel hues to create a cozy cocoon of a room. The stations include the “Black Bean Bed,” a pool filled with uncooked black beans, designed to soothe someone experiencing a panic attack. If you lie in the pool, the beans swallow your body while cooling the skin, enveloping you in comfort. The “Air Swing,” meanwhile, is a swing surrounded by three silent fans intended to increase the amount of oxygen you breathe in and, effectively, improve sleep. And the “Atlantic Reconciliation Station” is a water bed intended to help descendants of enslaved people forcibly brought through the middle passage—or pushed off ships along the way—reconcile with the ocean by reminding them that, as the artists explain, the ocean is an “adoring entity that has always had our back.” Continue reading..

[kingstylesdaily]

Harry Styles just served more of his ‘Golden’ style

The 26-year-old Fine Line singer just released the video for his latest track, Golden, and introduced us to a new graduate designer

Twenty-twenty is an ongoing mash-up of setbacks, bad news briefings and disappointments. That said, Harry Styles has just dropped his latest music video and, as ever, it’s brightened up our day.

Having been teased through Instagram by Styles and his team, the video is for his Fine Line opening track, “Golden”, which has a less sexual meaning than his previous song, “Watermelon Sugar” (google it), and serves another dose of goodness from Styles’ wondrous wardrobe.

As ever, the video looks as though it could have been made during the 1967 Summer Of Love, with – you guessed it – golden hues and bursts of sunshine aplenty. And, equally true to form, the video sees Styles moving from beach to street in his go-to brands, from a Gucci blue jacket to a pair of ultra-sustainable Bode shorts and plenty of glittery Éliou jewellery.

But, always one to support up-and-coming designers (he was the first person to purchase anything from Daniel W Fletcher back in 2015 and made Harris Reed a global name after wearing their designs in his “Lights Up” video), Styles has introduced a new brand to the mix.

Liverpudlian Steven Stokey-Daley graduated from the University Of Westminster this year, after successfully completing the BA fashion design course, and you’ll spot Styles in a pair of his oversized, off-white, “Princess Diana” floral trousers and a billowing, slightly transparent, white shirt.

The items sit within Stokey-Daley’s graduate collection, which saw him use deadstock and leftover tweed, chiffon and silk from Alexander McQueen’s material archive, donated to the university by the brand under creative director Sarah Burton’s guidance. Key products in the collection are a wool tattersall check trench coat, a dressing gown made from 120 panels, in three different silks, as well as those pieces sported by Styles.

Of the decision to put Styles in Stokey-Daley creations alongside big-hitting brands such as Gucci, Harry Lambert, the “Golden” singer’s longstanding stylist, exclusively told GQ, “We always love to support young talent. We were particularly impressed with Steven’s designs and the ‘Golden’ video was the perfect place to share them with the world. Steven is a great talent and has designed the perfect oversized white shirt.”

What’s more, in one blink-and-you’ll-miss-it moment, Styles wears a baby-pink beret created by young designer James Pink, which is the brand of Leeds-based hatmaker and Central Saint Martins graduate (he left the institution in 2017) James Rushfirth.

As ever, Styles is a shining (and golden) example of how those with power can use their platforms.

source: GQ.co.uk

[thestylesindependent]

Twenty-twenty is an ongoing mash-up of setbacks, bad news briefings and disappointments. That said, Harry Styles has just dropped his latest music video and, as ever, it’s brightened up our day.

Having been teased through Instagram by Styles and his team, the video is for his Fine Line opening track, “Golden”, which has a less sexual meaning than his previous song, “Watermelon Sugar” (google it), and serves another dose of goodness from Styles’ wondrous wardrobe.

As ever, the video looks as though it could have been made during the 1967 Summer Of Love, with – you guessed it – golden hues and bursts of sunshine aplenty. And, equally true to form, the video sees Styles moving from beach to street in his go-to brands, from a Gucci blue jacket to a pair of ultra-sustainable Bode shorts and plenty of glittery Éliou jewellery.

But, always one to support up-and-coming designers (he was the first person to purchase anything from Daniel W Fletcher back in 2015 and made Harris Reed a global  name after wearing their designs in his “Lights Up” video), Styles has introduced a new brand to the mix.

Liverpudlian Steven Stokey-Daley graduated from the University Of Westminster this year, after successfully completing the BA fashion design course, and you’ll spot Styles in a pair of his oversized, off-white, “Princess Diana” floral trousers and a billowing, slightly transparent, white shirt.

The items sit within Stokey-Daley’s graduate collection, which saw him use deadstock and leftover tweed, chiffon and silk from Alexander McQueen’s material archive, donated to the university by the brand under creative director Sarah Burton’s guidance. Key products in the collection are a wool tattersall check trench coat, a dressing gown made from 120 panels, in three different silks, as well as those pieces sported by Styles.

Of the decision to put Styles in Stokey-Daley creations alongside big-hitting brands such as Gucci, Harry Lambert, the “Golden” singer’s longstanding stylist, exclusively told GQ, “We always love to support young talent. We were particularly impressed with Steven’s designs and the ‘Golden’ video was the perfect place to share them with the world. Steven is a great talent and has designed the perfect oversized white shirt.”

What’s more, in one blink-and-you’ll-miss-it moment, Styles wears a baby-pink beret created by young designer James Pink, which is the brand of Leeds-based hatmaker and Central Saint Martins graduate (he left the institution in 2017) James Rushfirth.

As ever, Styles is a shining (and golden) example of how those with power can use their platforms.

[prismstonearchives]

グリーンリーフシフォン - Green Leaf Chiffon Coord

[grapevynerendezvous]

KFRC’s 21 Golden Rocks, Volume 1 - Various Artists

This was my first rock/r&b song collection album. How I got it is kind of vague. It certainly has the feel of listening to radio with just a few slight differences. There’s no DJ introducing the songs as they started and/or talking over the songs as they faded out, no commercials between songs, and I could choose when I wanted to hear them, how often, which ones, in what order…okay, so the songs were on the radio and now they could be on my record player. All the better. It also familiarized me with some songs I hadn’t heard, or heard very little. Since the majority of the songs were hits in 1966, with earlier ones going as far back as 1963, and one in 1967, the chances were that I heard most of them throughout ’66 & ’67 - when I really started paying more attention. It took me awhile to warm up to rhythm and blues music, I suppose one could say black music in general. I look back to some of the 45s that we had over time, courtesy of my sister and my mom. There actually are some songs that I had always enjoyed in that genre, but I just hadn’t gotten used to the newer ones yet. Sam Cooke comes to mind, but I think my sister kept that one even though I have most of those 45s now. As time went by I started appreciating the r&b songs on this album, as well as others that I was hearing more and more. It is evident that at this early stage it was reasonably important that I had this collection of music. Only three of the 21 songs are on albums I ended up owning. At the time I got it I already had albums with  Hello Hello by Sopwith Camel and Laugh Laugh by The Beau Brummels, while later obtaining the Love album with My Little Red Book as the opening track.

Side one

Hello Hello - Sopwith Camel

1967 No.26 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album Sopwith Camel • origin San Francisco CA

The only song from the year of this album’s release. It was the first hit single by any band in the San Francisco Psychedelic era. There is more about the band in my posting about LP25.

Psychotic Reaction - Count Five

1966 No.5 Billboard * recorded 1965

Album Psychotic Reaction * origin in San Jose CA

The Count Five were the first San Jose band to have success in the “garage band era”. Psychotic Reaction was discovered by KLIV DJ Brian Lord. I saw Count Five with some original members including vocalist Kenn Elnerr perform Psychotic Reaction at Longstock XXI in 2013 in the Santa Cruz Mountains CA.

The Duck - Jackie Lee

1965 No.14 1966 Top 100 No.8 R&B Billboard * recorded 1965

Album The Duck 1966 * origin Los Angeles CA

His real name is Earl Nelson and he had been in The Hollywood Flames in the ‘50s and was lead vocalist on Buzz Buzz Buzz. He had been in the duo Bob & Earl with Bobby Boyd, who later recorded Rockin’ Robin as Bobby Day. Nelson united with Bob Relf for a further Bob & Earl period. Jackie was his wife’s name, and Lee his middle name.

Little Girl - Syndicate of Sound

1966 No.8 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album Little Girl * origin in San Jose CA

Little Girl was originally issued on Hush Records in San Francisco.and became a regional hit with help from KLIV radio. Bell Records picked it up and issued it nationally. In the early’70s Syndicate of Sound played at a DeMolay event I was at. I got to know co-writer Bob Gonzalez in the 2010s. He still performs in the South Bay Area as of this writing. Syndicate of Sound performed a few shows after I met Bob and I saw one of them at the Santa Clara Fairgrounds. Original guitarist, and lead singer of Little Girl Don Baskin, was there, but since passed away in 2019.

Dirty Water - The Standells

1966 No.11 Billboard * recorded 1965

Album Dirty Water * origin in Los Angeles CA

The song was written by producer Ed Cobb who had lived in Boston, and which explains references to that city in Dirty Water. Drummer Dick Dodd, who at one time was on The Mouseketeers, sang lead vocal on this and most Standell songs. Boston sports teams regularly play Dirty Water at their events. The Standells have played at Fenway Park five times including at the 2nd game of the 2004 World Series.

Little Latin Lupe Lu - The Righteous Brothers

1963 No.49 Billboard * recorded 1963

Album Right Now! * origin Orange County/Los Angeles CA

Their first single, this song was a moderate hit for The Righteous Brothers before their first major smash You’ve Lost That Loving Feeling the next year. Bill Medley said that he dated a “Lupe Laguna” in high school. I saw Medley perform solo at Circle Star Theater in the ‘70s.

Laugh Laugh - The Beau Brummels

1964 No.15 Billboard * recorded 1964

Album Introducing The Beau Brummels * origin San Francisco CA

This was their first hit single. It was written by guitarist Ron Elliott and sung by lead vocalist Sal Valentino. I saw Valentino perform as a guest with Jackie Greene in 2005 at The Catalyst in Santa Cruz CA. There is more about the band in my posting about LP29.

Hey Joe (Where You Gonna Go) - The Leaves

1966 No. 31 Billboard * recorded 1966 (3rd version)

Album Hey Joe * origin San Fernando Valley-Los Angeles CA

A popular regional number, the Leaves recorded this song three times, with the final success of the third after new guitarist Bob Arlin, who used a fuzztone, had joined the band. They originally heard the song done by The Byrds at a club called Ciro’s. Johnny Echols of Love claims that The Leaves first heard Love’s version as well. The Leaves ended up releasing it before the Byrds version was released on their Fifth Dimension LP. The second version by The Leaves was released before the Love version came out on their first album, but was not successful as a single. Other notable versions were by Tim Rose, and Jimi Hendrix, plus LA’s Standells, Music Machine and Surfaries had also recorded it.

Baby Scratch My Back - Slim Harpo

1966 No.16 Top 100/No.1 R&B Billboard * recorded 1965

Album Baby Scratch My Back * origin Baton Rouge LA

Born James Isaac Moore in Lobdell LA, Slim Harpo was a leading exponent of Swamp Blues. His stage name was derived from his mastery of the blues “harp” harmonica. It was his most successful single, others of which included I’m a King Bee (’57) and Shake Your Hips (’66).

Pushin’ Too Hard - The Seeds

1966 No.36 (1967) Billboard * recorded 1965 reissued 1966

Album The Seeds 1966 * origin Los Angeles CA

Originally released as You’re Pushin’ Too Hard in 1965 when it became a regional hit and started being played extensively by an LA DJ after the album was released. After a new single of it was issued in November ’66 as Pushin’ Too Hard, it lead to it reaching national charts. Some radio stations banned it in the belief it was about a pusher of illegal drugs. Rather strange since it would have actually been an anti-drug song. The song is often cited as an example of garage rock in both celebratory and denigrating manners. I have seen keyboardist Darryl Hooper play with a recent version of the Seeds, and with Chocolate Watch Band in 2015 and 2019 all at at The Chapel in San Francisco CA.

Good Lovin' - The Young Rascals

1966 No.1 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album The Young Rascals * origin Garfield NJ

This song was originally recorded by Lemme B. Good (Limme Shell), and a month later by The Olympics with revised lyrics, which was a moderate hit for them. It is said that Young Rascal Felix Cavallere first heard The Olympics version and it was added to the Young Rascals’ repertoire, using those same lyrics and basic arrangement as The Olympics. It was the band’s first real hit, being only their second released single. They went on to have five other top 10 hits including two more No.1’s, in the meantime changing their name to The Rascals.

Side 2

You Turn Me On (Turn On Song) - Ian Whitcomb (and Bluesville)

1965 No.8 Billboard * recorded 1965

Album You Turn Me On * origin Dublin IE/from Woking Surrey Eng.

This is one of the only two British Invasion songs included in the collection, the other being technically Irish. (the Irish Invasion?) It was self-penned by Whitcomb and was the only one of his four Billboard songs over the years to reach hit status. He went on to be a record producer, author, and occasional actor. He eventually moved permanently to the U.S. and still performs as of this writing.

Sweet Talkin' Guy - The Chiffons

1966 No.10 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album Sweet Talkin’ Guy * origin The Bronx New York, NY

This was the group’s third Top 10 hit single. They ended up touring in Germany, and in England where members of the Beatles and Rollings Stones were in the audience on one club date.

Along Comes Mary - The Association

1966 No. 7 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album And Then…Along Comes The Association * origin LA CA

The band is famous for their rich vocal harmonies which lead to some major successes for the group in the ‘60s. This was their third single, but the first one to become a hit on Billboard. The next single, Cherish, hit No.1 the same year, as did Windy in 1967 with Never My Love at No.2 that year. The song refers to a once-disillusioned man’s tribulations being comforted by Mary and improving his life. It’s also been said that “Mary” refers to marijuana. It’s unclear whether composer Tandyn Almer ever confirmed that one way or the other. Over the years The Association has had an enormous amount of singers perform in the group over the years. They are still active, with the founder Jules Gary Alexander still on board, as of this writing.

Baby Do The Philly Dog - The Olympics

1966 No.63 R&B No.20 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album Something Old, Something New * origin Los Angeles CA

The Olympics started out as a doo-wop group in the late fifties, having their only big hit, Western Movies, make No.8 Top 100 and No.7 R&B on Billboard with one other top 10 song on Billboard R&B. They released a number of other singles until their last one Do the Philly Dog. They made no further singles following this. Charles Fizer died from a bullet wound in The Watts Riots of ’65. Not long after Melvin King left after his sister died in an accidental shooting. With line up changes the group continued after the mid-60s but with little success. They continued performing in the ‘70s on the oldies circuit in the U.S. and elsewhere.

Hang On Sloopy - The McCoys

1965 No. 1 Billboard * recorded 1965

Album Hang On Sloopy * origin Celina OH, Union City IN

Originally titled My Girl Sloopy when written by Wes Farrell & Bert Berns it was an R&B hit for The Vibrations in 1964. Before changing their name to The McCoys, they were called Rick & The Raiders. Rick & the band backed the Strangeloves, who were actually three writer/producers, at their last performance of a tour. The Strangeloves then recruited 17-year old Rick Zehringer (later Derringer) and his band to record Hang On Sloopy in New York. It later became the official song of the State of Ohio, unofficial fight song of Ohio State University, a signature song of the Cleveland Indians, and played regularly at Cleveland Cavalier games.

Hello Stranger - Barbara Lewis

1963 No.3 Top 100 No.1 R&B Billboard * recorded 1963

Album Hello Stranger * origin Detroit MI

Barbara Lewis wrote all the songs on her first album, Hello Stranger. She had eight other songs chart in the Billboard Top 100 through 1967, two of them which she had not written, peaking at No.11 in 1965. She was out of sight for awhile the next decade but resurfaced in 1977. She retired from singing in 2017 for health reasons.

My Little Red Book - Love

1966 No.52 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album Love * origin Los Angeles CA

This was Love’s first single on the Billboard chart and was a moderate hit. I remember it being played quite a bit on Bay Area stations. It was their version of the Burt Bacharach/Hal David song. Bacharach criticized the altered chord changes in Love version, but the song “became a garage rock standard, per Mason Stewart in his AllMusic song biography. It has also “been credited for its "punk" quality” by Stewart and others. I got to see My Little Red Book, among other songs, performed live by Arthur Lee & Love at Great American Music Hall on January 16, 2004, while Lee was still alive.

Solitary Man - Neil Diamond

1966 No.55 Billboard * recorded 1966

Album The Feel of Neil Diamond * origin Brooklyn NY

This, Neil Diamonds’ first single to chart, was a moderate success on Billboard and remains one of his personal favorite songs. He had written some other successful songs that were covered by others up to that time. It had already been thought by some, but in the 2000s Diamond finally realized, that Solitary Man was about himself while he was trying to write and sell songs up to the point when he went to work in the Brill Building. It was followed by the higher charing single, Cherry Cherry the same year. Neil Diamond has gone on to be one of the the most popular, best selling music artists of all-time. He still performs to sold-out audiences.

5 O'Clock World - The Vogues

1965 No.4 Billboard * recorded 1965

Album Five O’Clock World * origin Turtle Creek/Pittsburg PA

This was the second of back-to-back No.4 singles on Billboard, the band’s best success as The Vogues. They had one non-charting single (released twice) prior to that as The Valaires. The only other time of Top Ten success was in 1968 when they had back-to-back No. 7 singles. Their last studio album was released in 1971, followed by several unsuccessful singles through 1974. Although they continued performing by 1983 there was one original member left. Their manager in the meantime had trademarked the name and assets of the band. What followed was a classic case of many multiple bands using the name The Vogues, resulting in legal actions, and even Congressional testimony regarding the Truth in Music Act by that original member Chuck Blasco.

Gloria - Them

1965 No.71 Billboard * recorded 1964

Album The Angry Young Them * origin Belfast IE

This is the other non-American single on the album, the band being Irish. It landed in the U/S. during the British Invasion period. This garage song staple, written by Van Morrison, was the B-side of Baby Please Don’t Go in the U.K. and as such, was not included on the UK Singles Chart on it’s own. It was only moderately successful in the U.S. as a single while the Shadows of Knight (SOK) version issued later in the year rose to No.10 on Billboard. Them’s version topped that SOK version only in places it could be played. One of my earlier memories as a teenager involved hushed whispers about songs like Gloria and Louie Louie. One could listen to the American band’s version of Gloria and think, so what. It turns out that many radio stations would not play Them’s version because of the line “She comes to my room”: Oh my. The SOK version went, “She calls out my name.” In either case, Gloria is a classic. Van Morrison left the band in 1966 and has gone on to be a beloved songwriter and performer. I saw him on a double-bill with Bob Dylan at Shoreline Amphitheatre in Mountain View CA in the 2000s.

                  ——————————————————-

KFRC 610 “The Big 610” and “Boss Radio” was a Top 40 rock and roll AM radio station in San Francisco CA. Prior to that it was purchased by RKO-General in 1949 and had an MOR (middle of the road) music format. The station was originally licensed at 1110 kHz in 1924, then 660 kHz a three years later, and finally 610kHz in 1928. The change in 1966 blended into “The Summer of Love” era and KFRC became the dominant station in the Bay Area through the 1970s. The station was responsible for two important events that occurred during that period. One was The Beach Boys Summer Spectacular, which included many bands, held in 1966 at the Cow Palace in Daly City. The following year, on June 10 and 11, they hosted the very first rock festival ever held, Fantasy Fair and Magic Mountain Music Festival at Sidney B. Cushing Amphitheatre on Mount Tamalpais in Marin County. It preceded the Monterey Pop Festival by one week. The only band on this album that played Magic Mountain was The Seeds, although there were many great upcoming local and national acts there. KYA 1260 was their chief rival in San Francisco. Another station I listened to a lot in the Bay Area was KLIV 1590 in San Jose. The fact is I listened to those stations more than KFRC overallI. Both of those stations preceded KFRC in the Top 40 format although KFRC held its’ own once it entered that arena. Of course any top forty station was fair game if they were playing the right song while I was cruising around. All these stations are gone now; sold, changed frequency and/or call letters, and of course, formats. It was a “golden” time to be listening to music radio though.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KFRC_(defunct)

https://rateyourmusic.com/release/comp/various-artists/kfrc-the-big-610-21-golden-rocks-volume-1/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KLIV

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sopwith_Camel_(band)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Count_Five

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earl_Nelson_(singer)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Syndicate_of_Sound

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Standells

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Righteous_Brothers

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Beau_Brummels

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Leaves

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slim_Harpo

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Seeds

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Rascals 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ian_Whitcomb

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Chiffons

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Association

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Olympics_(band)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_McCoys

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbara_Lewis

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Love_(band)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neil_Diamond

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Vogues

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Them_(band)

LP32

[lightscamerafashion-fmd351]

Fashion Clueless…As if!!

Movies can transport you to new places, introduce you to new characters; characters who you’ll come to love, or hate, and everything in between. But they can also change not only the fashion style of the time but the way we perceive fashion as well.

Movies like “Breakfast at Tiffany” who gave us the little black dress, which was designed by Hubert de Givenchy. It was a black Italian satin sheath evening gown, and was paired with long black evening gloves, big black sunglass, and multiple rows of pearls.

https://www.thevintagenews.com/2016/08/02/the-givenchy/

Another cult classic movie that changed fashion at the time and continues to have an impact even now is the cult classic “Clueless.” The 1995 coming of age teen comedy that was written and directed by Amy Heckerling, with costumes by Mona May and stared unknown Alicia Silverstone as the iconic Cher Horowitz.

https://www.elle.com/culture/movies-tv/a33338147/clueless-costume-designer-mona-may-interview/

The movie that was aimed at teenagers and depicted fashion that at the time was not at all what teens where wearing. The film showed high fashion, introduced us to designers, and yet was still youthful.

We can’t forget the first time we are introduced to Cher’s fashion sense with the help of her computerized closet of course. When we see her in her first day of school outfit which consisted of a yellow plaid Dolce & Gabbana suit, with a plain white shirt and yellow fuzzy sweater,  paired with over knee white socks and white Mary Jane shoes.

https://www.flare.com/fashion/mona-may-clueless-outfits/

https://www.vogue.com/article/clueless-costumes-mona-may-interview

Or the outfit that introduced us to the designer Alaia, with her red body fitting dress, peplum red and black jacket with feather embellishments and red Jimmy Choo shoes.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CC2X0qaJLDW/?utm_source=ig_embed

https://ew.com/article/2015/07/17/clueless-costume-designer-mona-may-chers-yellow-suit/

Or the outfit she wore while aimlessly rooming; her long white chiffon blouse with ruffles in the front; worn under a short silver vest and argyle skirt.

https://www.insider.com/best-outfits-on-clueless-2018-10#summer-is-only-briefly-in-the-movie-but-her-outfit-is-memorable-22

One outfit that invokes the origins that inspired the movie, Emma is this green empire belt dress with short puff sleeve. It’s a modernized version of the regency era.

https://www.insider.com/best-outfits-on-clueless-2018-10#summer-is-only-briefly-in-the-movie-but-her-outfit-is-memorable-22

And of course we can’t forget the most simplest but still impactful outfit. The outfit not considered a dress by her father and brought us the great comeback to the question of "Who says so?", "Calvin Klein!" of course.

https://style.nine.com.au/latest/fashion-style-90s-era-clueless-fashion/17f0602a-1aff-40ba-a34f-01a160bc8f5e

“Clueless,” was unique at the time because it showed us how fashion could be mixed with high-low style. It didn’t have to be just designer names or vintage but could be a combination of both. And even though it has been more than 20 years since its release the outfits are still very much relevant even now. And still inspires designers, like Versace’s Fall 2018 collection.

https://www.vogue.com/article/versace-fall-2018-clueless-90s-style

Come join us again for another look into great fashion in movies and tv shows, next week; on a cruise that will change your life.

JP

[styleofdiamandis]

PHOTOSHOOT: MARINA FOR THE UNTITLED MAGAZINE

Marina Diamandis graced the cover of The Untitled Magazine's "#GirlPower" issue. This post marks the first of many "Froot" era editorials!

She was photographed and styled by Indira Cesarine, glammed-up by Roberto Morelli and coiffed by Anthony Joseph Hernandez.

The cover look displays the Greek-Welsh chanteuse in a midnight-blue satin dress with chiffon insert and eyelet details which belongs to Roberto Cavalli's Resort 2015 collection. Above you can see similar pieces with the same eyelet decorations!

For the second look, Marina opted to go all elegant in a black jumpsuit with scalloped detailing and semi-sheer chiffon from Charlotte Ronson's Fall/Winter 2014 lookbook.

Love the mix of different seasons used for this shoot!

She finished the look off with a bold black resin & gold metal cuff from Pluma Italia's "Colori" collection.

Of course we can't leave out a Greek designer when it comes to Marina! Inspired by old Hollywood glamour, she wore this Costarellos Fall/Winter 2014 white mermaid gown with strategically placed golden zippers.

A true show-stopper of a creation would be this black & cream silk cocktail dress with side peek-a-boo details and long mesh train from Bibhu Mohapatra's Spring/Summer 2015 runway show.

This look was completed with Erickson Beamon crystal jewelry and these Via Spiga metallic silver court heels.

This stunning look showcases M sporting a ZAC Zac Posen Resort 2015 turquoise stretch jersey mermaid gown with seductive V-neckline and figure-enhancing seams.

She also wears a pair of Via Spiga pumps and a Pluma Italia Gladiator gold cuff (similar pictured).

In the penultimate shot Marina flirts with the camera while wearing one of the finale numbers from Christian Siriano's Spring/Summer 2015 collection – long gown with plunging V-neckline and short sleeves rendered in dark blue glossy silk lamé.

On her hand we can spot a double open ring by New York City-based jewelry label Stanmore (similar pictured).

Last but definitely not least, Marina looks ethereal in a Georgine Spring/Summer 2015 "Cherchez La Femme" collection metallic gold liquid leather trench coat with matching belted wide-leg trousers and white scoop neck bodysuit.

As in jewelry, she wore a statement necklace in gold by Elizabeth Cole, the aforementioned Stanmore ring and another gold ring by Kenneth Jay Lane.

Read the full interview here!

[hlupdate]

As the ultimate Gucci poster boy, Harry Styles has an ever-expanding collection of looks from the house vast enough to warrant its own exhibition. We’ve seen him take its silk-chiffon blouse to the Met Gala, its raffia clutch bag to the cruise show in Rome, debut its menswear Mary-Jane at the Brit Awards, and even carry a chicken through a chip shop wearing Gucci tailoring.

Since he first wore Alessandro Michele’s designs on the red carpet in 2015, Harry has become one of the personalities associated most with Gucci and its all-encompassing, fluid vision. “We work with the Gucci team in a number of different ways,” Harry’s stylist Harry Lambert explains. “Firstly, we have a meeting after every show, where the design team talk us through the new collection. This is where myself and Harry make an initial selection [of looks we like], it’s important that we give him the opportunity to try everything on before we confirm what it is we want.”

Looks born out of this process include the yellow suit he wore to host SNL at the end of last year, and the brown one he walked the 2020 Brit Awards red carpet in. Each was plucked from a collection shown at the brand’s Milan Fashion Week show.

Having starred in three Gucci campaigns thus far, Harry has unrivalled access to the house and its skilled task force, which means he can also work with Michele’s team on bespoke looks. As Lambert explains: “For custom projects, we submit a brief using reference images compiled by Harry and myself, and wait for the team to send over designs.” The sartorial results of this relationship? His white lace jumpsuit, a plethora of suits from his first solo tour and, of course, his 2019 Met Gala look.

On the first day of Milan Fashion Week, Gucci presented its autumn/winter 2020 collection, and with it a whole host of new options for Harry’s wardrobe. Below, the 11 looks from the show Vogue would choose for the star.

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[omagazineparis]

Van Cleef & Arpels : l'histoire d'une légende

Van Cleef & Arpels est une maison de joaillerie française fondée en 1906 par Alfred Van Cleef et son beau-frère Salomon Arpels. Depuis plus d'un siècle, la marque est connue pour ses bijoux élégants et intemporels qui ont séduit des générations de femmes. Les collections iconiques de Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels est célèbre pour ses collections emblématiques, chacune ayant une signification particulière. - Alhambra, créée en 1968, est devenue un symbole de chance et de prospérité grâce à ses motifs en forme de trèfle à quatre feuilles. - Perlée, quant à elle, est caractérisée par des perles délicates qui ajoutent une touche de sophistication à chaque pièce. - Frivole, introduite en 2015, est inspirée de la beauté florale. Elle incarne l'esprit romantique de la marque, avec ses motifs de fleurs délicates et ses diamants éblouissants. - La collection Sweet Alhambra, lancée en 2007, est une version miniature de la célèbre collection Alhambra, idéale pour les occasions décontractées. Les techniques de fabrication de Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels est connu pour sa maîtrise de la haute joaillerie, utilisant des techniques de fabrication artisanales et des matériaux de qualité supérieure. La maison utilise des diamants de la plus haute qualité, ainsi que des pierres précieuses telles que des émeraudes, des rubis et des saphirs. Van Cleef & Arpels est une maison française de haute joaillerie renommée pour ses techniques de fabrication innovantes et son savoir-faire exceptionnel. Une de leurs techniques les plus célèbres est le Mystery Set, breveté en 1933, qui permet de sertir des pierres précieuses sans griffe ni autre composant métallique visible. Les designers de Van Cleef & Arpels allient imagination et expertise pour créer des pièces de joaillerie uniques et emblématiques de leur style. La maison est également connue pour ses montres à Complications Poétiques®, qui combinent savoir-faire traditionnel et prouesses techniques. Les créations de Van Cleef & Arpels sont influencées par le temps, la nature et l'amour, et elles utilisent divers matériaux et techniques pour refléter ces thèmes. Les artisans de Van Cleef & Arpels sont des maîtres dans l'art de la gravure et de la taille des pierres précieuses, créant des pièces uniques qui sont de véritables œuvres d'art. Lire aussi : Quelle est la plus belle robe rouge portée au cinéma ? Choisir et entretenir ses bijoux Van Cleef & Arpels Le choix d'un bijou Van Cleef & Arpels est une décision importante, et il est essentiel de prendre en compte plusieurs facteurs. Il est important de considérer votre style personnel ainsi que l'occasion pour laquelle vous porterez le bijou. L'entretien de vos bijoux Van Cleef & Arpels est également crucial pour leur longévité. Il est recommandé de nettoyer vos bijoux avec une brosse douce et de l'eau tiède savonneuse, puis de les sécher avec un chiffon doux. Évitez de porter vos bijoux pendant les activités physiques et gardez-les dans un endroit sûr lorsque vous ne les portez pas. Van Cleef & Arpels est une marque légendaire qui a captivé les femmes depuis plus d'un siècle grâce à ses bijoux intemporels et élégants. Avec des collections emblématiques, des techniques de fabrication de haute qualité et des conseils pour choisir et entretenir vos bijoux, Van Cleef & Arpels est la marque de joaillerie idéale pour toute femme à la recherche de qualité et de sophistication. Read the full article