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skyhighhub4 · 9 months

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Guide to Choosing and Planting Aquarium Plants

Creating a vibrant and thriving aquatic ecosystem within your fish tank involves more than just choosing the right fish species. It also entails selecting the perfect aquatic plants. These green companions not only enhance your tank's aesthetics but also contribute to its overall health and balance. In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore the world of aquarium plants, helping you make informed choices and providing essential tips for maintaining a harmonious and beautiful underwater world. Plus, we'll delve into the specifics of how to plant Anubias nana , Anubias Nana, to ensure your aquatic landscape thrives.

Why Include Plants in Your Fish Tank?

Before we delve into the types of plants suitable for your fish tank, it's essential to understand why plants are an essential addition to your aquatic setup:

Aesthetic Appeal: Aquarium plants add color, texture, and depth to your fish tank, transforming it into a visually captivating aquatic landscape.

Water Quality: Plants play a vital role in maintaining water quality by absorbing excess nutrients and helping to control algae growth. They act as natural filters, reducing the need for frequent water changes.

Oxygen Production: Through photosynthesis, aquatic plants release oxygen into the water, creating a healthier environment for your fish. This oxygenation is particularly crucial in densely stocked tanks.

Shelter and Security: Plants provide hiding spots and shelter for fish, reducing stress and aggression among tank inhabitants.

Choosing the Right Plants for Your Fish Tank

When it comes to selecting plants for your fish tank, several factors come into play:

Lighting: Different plants have varying lighting requirements. Consider the intensity and duration of your tank's lighting to ensure your chosen plants will thrive.

Tank Size: Some plants are better suited for smaller tanks, while others are ideal for larger setups. Be mindful of the available space and select plants accordingly.

Compatibility: Ensure that the plants you choose are compatible with your fish species. Some fish may nibble on plants, so select species that can withstand occasional grazing.

Maintenance: Consider the level of care and maintenance required for each plant. Some are low-maintenance and suitable for beginners, while others may demand more attention.

Popular Plants for Your Fish Tank

Here's a list of popular aquatic plants that can thrive in various tank setups:

Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus): Known for its hardiness and low-light tolerance, Java Fern is an excellent choice for beginners. It adds a lush, green backdrop to your tank.

Anubias (Anubias spp.): Anubias plants are known for their adaptability to different lighting conditions. They are great for attaching to rocks and driftwood, creating a captivating underwater landscape.

Amazon Sword (Echinodorus spp.): With their broad leaves, Amazon Swords make a stunning centerpiece in larger tanks. They thrive in nutrient-rich substrates and require moderate lighting.

Dwarf Hairgrass (Eleocharis parvula): If you're aiming for a lush carpet of green, Dwarf Hairgrass is an excellent choice. It requires moderate to high lighting and a nutrient-rich substrate.

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum): Hornwort is a floating plant that provides excellent oxygenation and serves as a refuge for fry (baby fish). It's incredibly easy to care for.

Cryptocoryne (Cryptocoryne spp.): Crypts come in various sizes and colors, making them a versatile choice. They do well in low to moderate lighting conditions.

Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri): Java Moss is a versatile and hardy moss that can be attached to driftwood or rocks. It provides excellent cover for fish and fry.

Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis): Water Wisteria is a fast-growing plant that can help control algae by outcompeting it for nutrients. It's suitable for beginners and thrives in moderate lighting.

How to Plant Anubias Nana

Anubias Nana is a versatile and visually appealing aquarium plant. Here's how to plant it in your tank:

Preparation: Start by preparing your Anubias Nana. Gently remove it from its pot and rinse off any excess substrate to expose the plant's rhizome, which is the thick, horizontal stem from which the roots and leaves grow.

Choosing a Location: Anubias Nana can be attached to hardscape elements like rocks or driftwood. Decide on the desired location within your tank.

Attachment: Use fishing line or aquarium-safe adhesive to secure the Anubias Nana to the chosen hardscape element. Be sure not to bury the rhizome; it should be exposed. This prevents rotting and ensures the plant's health.

Placement: Carefully place the hardscape element with the attached Anubias Nana into your tank's substrate. Ensure it is secure and won't topple over.

Lighting and Care: Provide the appropriate lighting for Anubias Nana, which is typically low to moderate. Ensure it receives proper care, including fertilization and regular pruning, to maintain its health and appearance.

Planting and Maintenance Tips

Once you've selected your plants and, in this case, learned how to plant Anubias Nana, here are some essential tips for planting and maintaining them in your fish tank:

Planting: Gently plant the roots or rhizomes of the plants into the substrate, being careful not to bury them too deeply. Some plants, like Java Fern and Anubias, should not be buried at all but instead attached to hardscape elements.

Lighting: Ensure your tank's lighting matches the requirements of the plants you've chosen. Invest in a timer to maintain a consistent light schedule.

Fertilization: Consider using liquid or substrate fertilizers to provide essential nutrients to your plants, especially in tanks with inert substrates.

Pruning: Regularly trim and prune your plants to control their growth and prevent overcrowding. This helps maintain water circulation and prevents shaded areas where algae can thrive.

Algae Control: Keep an eye on algae growth and take measures to control it. Algae can compete with your plants for nutrients and light.

Water Changes: Perform regular water changes to maintain water quality. This helps remove excess nutrients and waste that can accumulate in the tank.

In Conclusion

Selecting and planting the right plants for your fish tank is a crucial step in creating a healthy and visually appealing aquatic environment. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced aquarist, there are aquatic plants suitable for your tank's size, lighting, and fish species. By carefully choosing and maintaining your plants, you can enjoy the beauty of a thriving underwater landscape while providing a healthy and comfortable habitat for your fish. Plus, learning how to plant Anubias Nana adds another layer of expertise to your aquascaping skills, enhancing the overall beauty of your aquatic haven.

ALSO VISIT : Anubias Nana Care Guide for Beginners

Aquascaping with Anubias Nana

BEST VERSATILE AQUATIC PLANT FOR YOUR FISH TANK

Anubias Nana Planting 101: A Beginner's Guide to Aquatic Flora

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aquaticlifes · 9 months

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Enhance Your Aquascape with Sword Plants: Nature's Masterpiece

Aquascaping enthusiasts are continuously inspired to create stunning underwater landscapes, turning their aquariums into captivating aquatic havens. Among the plethora of aquatic treasures, Sword Plants (Echinodorus species) stand out as true marvels of nature. With their regal allure and versatile beauty, Sword Plants have become beloved gems in the world of aquascaping. In this SEO-friendly article, we delve into the enchanting allure of Sword Plants, their essential role in elevating aquascapes, care tips, and provide a step-by-step guide on how to plant the Amazon Sword in your aquatic paradise, turning it into a breathtaking canvas of aquatic wonders.

Sword Plants: Nature's Aquatic Royalty Unveiled

Named after their distinctive sword-shaped leaves, Sword Plants hail from the lush waters of South and Central America, thriving in their natural habitat. As prized additions to aquariums, they captivate enthusiasts with their diverse species and cultivars, each boasting its unique charm and attributes. From the regal Echinodorus amazonicus to the compact Echinodorus tenellus, each Sword Plant brings a touch of elegance and grandeur to any aquascape.

The Versatility of Sword Plants in Aquascaping

Focal Points of Distinction: Standing tall and majestic, Sword Plants make ideal focal points in aquariums. Their elongated leaves create an aura of elegance, serving as captivating centerpieces that draw admiration from all who behold them.

A Natural Refuge: Beyond their ornamental appeal, Sword Plants provide a natural haven for aquatic fauna. Their dense foliage offers hiding spots and shelter for fish and invertebrates, creating a safe and stress-free environment reminiscent of their natural habitats.

Aiding Aquatic Harmony: Sword Plants play a vital role in maintaining water quality within aquariums. As natural water purifiers, they absorb excess nutrients, promoting water clarity and contributing to a healthy and balanced aquatic ecosystem.

Caring for Sword Plants: Nurturing Nature's Finest

To ensure the flourishing beauty of Sword Plants in your aquascape, adhere to these essential care guidelines:

Illuminating Brilliance: Provide moderate to bright lighting to support their growth. Adequate lighting conditions are crucial for Sword Plants to reveal their full splendor.

Ideal Aquatic Conditions: Maintain stable water parameters with a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 and a temperature between 72°F to 82°F (22°C to 28°C). Consistency in water conditions enhances the health and vitality of your Sword Plants.

Nourishing the Roots: Opt for a nutrient-rich substrate that facilitates healthy root development. Specialized aquarium soil or substrate designed for planted tanks provides the nourishment they require.

Feeding the Royalty: Regularly fertilize your Sword Plants with a comprehensive liquid fertilizer or substrate-based formula. Essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium enhance their growth and vibrancy.

Pruning and Maintenance: Trim any decaying or damaged leaves to maintain their majestic appearance. Regular maintenance ensures they remain the focal points of your aquascape.

How to Plant Amazon Sword Plant: Step-by-Step Guide

Now, let's embark on a rewarding journey of planting the Amazon Sword in your aquatic paradise:

Aquarium Preparation: Prepare your aquarium with appropriate conditions for the success of Amazon Sword Plant. Ensure they receive moderate to bright lighting, ideal for their thriving growth.

Select Healthy Specimens: Choose healthy Amazon Sword Plant specimens from reputable suppliers or local pet stores. Look for vibrant and undamaged leaves, indicative of regal flora.

Planting Technique: Gently handle the Sword Plant's delicate roots as you remove it from its container. Plant the roots into the substrate, ensuring they are well-covered and anchored in their new aquatic abode. Use aquarium tweezers for precise planting.

Spacing and Arrangement: Allow ample space between each Sword Plant to foster their growth and avoid overcrowding in your aquascape. Consider the size and growth potential of each species as you arrange them in their underwater kingdom.

Maintenance and Care: Regularly monitor the growth of your Amazon Sword Plants, trimming any decaying or damaged leaves to preserve their majestic appearance and overall health. Conduct routine water changes to maintain the pristine conditions they deserve.

Enhancing Your Aquascape with Sword Plants

Incorporate Sword Plants into your aquascape to elevate its beauty and charm:

Strategic Placement: Position Sword Plants as captivating backdrops or stately midground features. Their impressive height and lush foliage add depth and visual interest to your underwater landscape.

A Royal Gathering: Create a captivating display by grouping multiple Sword Plant specimens of varying heights and species. This regal congregation adds dimension and drama to your aquascape.

Harmonizing with Companions: Pair your Sword Plants with other aquatic plants and compatible fish species that thrive in their company. Smaller foreground plants and colorful fish create a harmonious and balanced aquatic community.

Conclusion: Nature's Masterpiece Unleashed in Your Aquascape

Embrace the splendor of Sword Plants and unlock the full potential of your aquascape. From their captivating foliage to their vital role in maintaining a healthy underwater ecosystem, Sword Plants are the crown jewels of aquatic flora. Elevate your aquatic sanctuary with these botanical wonders and let nature's finest bloom in the vibrant world you create within your aquarium.

Discover the enchantment of Sword Plants as they transform your aquascape into a mesmerizing underwater masterpiece. From the captivating focal points they create to the natural refuge they offer for aquatic fauna, Sword Plants enrich the aquatic environment and bring a touch of elegance to your underwater kingdom. Enhance your aquascape with Sword Plants and let nature's finest thrive in the captivating world you curate within your aquarium.

ALSO VISIT : Diving into the Depths: The Fascinating Sword Plant Aquarium

Amazon Frogbit: Discovering the Beauty of a Floating Aquatic Gem

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Anchor Aquarium Plants in Substrate

Guppies 101: A Complete Guide to Guppy Care

#amazonswordplant #howto #how to plant #aquarium #howtoplantamazonswordplant

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soosi · 1 year

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THE AMAZON SWORD AQUATIC PLANT FOR AQUARIUMS-PIAS001

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aquabasedesign · 8 months

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The 120P Aquascape / 120 X 40 X 40 cm 🌊

This is how the 120P currently looks. In the background I have replaced the stem plants with Echinodorus species. Thus, the maintenance of the aquarium is now quite low.

#aquarium #aquascape #plants #aquariumhobby #aquariumsdaily #aquariumdesign #aquascaper #aquascaping #waterplants #fishtank #freshwatertank

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blogflores0 · 2 years

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Propriedades mágicas das ervas

Cada erva carrega certa energia que atua além do plano material para que possa curar não apenas o nosso corpo mas a nossa mente e alma também. Abaixo conheça algumas dessas ervas e propriedades: Alecrim (Rosmarinus officinalis) Liberta medos, traumas e outros aspetos negativos registados no ser, que estão “adormecidos”; incentiva a pessoa a ter sabedoria para viver e amar. Amoreira (Morus) Equilibra o humor em todos os processos de alterações hormonais; cria vitalidade energética para incentivar o corpo a produzir substâncias naturais do organismo que com o avanço da idade ficam reduzidas e necessitam ser repostas. Arruda (Ruta graveolens) Ajuda a liberar o choro reprimido e a tristeza interiorizada; traz força para superar os desejos não realizados; elimina a desilusão e o sentimento de fracasso. Açafrão (Crocus sativus) Tem inúmeras propriedades curativas; ajuda a sair de situações difíceis, atrai abundância, prosperidade e amor. Babosa (Aloe vera) Ativa o campo energético para fomentar qualquer tipo de regeneração celular; regenera a pele e a mente. Boldo-do-Chile (Vernonia condensata Proporciona posturas saudáveis em todas as situações da vida; limpa mágoas reprimidas. Camomila (Chamomila recucita) Elimina a raiva, o ódio, as mágoas, o medo e a falta de fé; ajuda a ter esperança e saber perdoar; provoca otimismo e elimina o stresse emocional. Tranquiliza e relaxa. Canela (cinnamomum verum) O seu uso é um excelente atrativo para amor, saúde, finanças e abundância. Abre caminhos. Cavalinha (Equisetum iemale) Origina doçura na vida e no amor; elimina o ódio sem causa; acalma o espírito; limpa o sentimento de inveja e ciúme em relação ao próximo; acaba com a ansiedade e a compulsividade, que estimulam a obesidade; ajuda a distinguir o certo do errado.

Chapéu-de-Couro (Echinodorus grandiflorus) Elimina os desejos maléficos; melhora o humor; ajuda a ter desejo de vitória e força para lutar por seus ideais; gera vitalidade energética nos casos de enfisema pulmonar, tuberculose e câncer de intestino. Coentro (Coriandrum sativum) Traz a capacidade de pensar mais alto e mais focado no sentido de sua evolução espiritual; ajuda a lutar contra o excesso de vaidade, causa tranquilidade para compreender as inferioridades alheias com compaixão e sem se fragilizar emocionalmente. Cominho (Cuminum cyminum) Libera bloqueios emocionais; promove a limpeza do coração de antigas tristezas guardadas; ter iniciativa para auxiliar o próximo, ser solidário, socializar-se com as pessoas e melhorar o ciclo de amizades. Erva-Doce (Pimpinella anisum) Promove o otimismo, motivação e vontade; aumenta a coragem; diminui a ansiedade; gera dinamismo; por diminuir a ansiedade, quando utilizado antes de dormir, provoca uma leve sonolência.

Espinheira-Santa (Maytenus ilicifolia) Desintoxica o campo energético do sangue; purifica os sentimentos de amor e compaixão; acaba com as oscilações de humor e a timidez. Gengibre (Zingiber officinale) Elimina o mau humor nas relações e traz simplicidade para enfrentar problemas com o parceiro(a). Guaco (Mikania glomerata) Elimina a inveja sentida internamente; ajuda a colocar em prática a sabedoria interior, ter dinamismo, ser humilde na medida certa. Hibisco (Hibiscus sabdariffa Elimina o excesso de consumismo material, o tabagismo; saber amar coerentemente sabendo dizer não quando for necessário. O hibisco está indicado para conseguir ter orgasmos na relação sexual. Hortelã (Mentha sylvestris) Limpa a mente e o campo energético; desacelera a atividade mental; alivia tensões; descongestiona os pensamentos; expande a consciência; estimula a clarividência.

Losna (Artemisia absinthium) Traz felicidade, coragem, êxtase espiritual e devoção. Louro (Laurus nobilis) Elimina energias pesadas de origem espiritual, cria um campo energético espiritual, traz a força da energia divina para limpar os campos de energia e os ambientes de um modo geral. Manjericão (ocimum basilicum) O seu uso é purificador e consagrador, para atrair a paz, alegria, felicidade e bons caminhos, limpa influências nocivas. Melissa (Melissa officinalis Ajuda a superar divórcios complicados, elimina traumas de maus tratos na infância, discórdias. Mirra (Commiphora myrrha Usada como desfazedora de nós, que por consequência leva à limpeza e proteção; atrai limpeza, proteção espiritual, bênçãos e cura. Sálvia (Salvia officinalis) Ajuda a explicar as coisas de forma científica, criar argumentos que convençam, saber explicar de forma correta de acordo com o público expectador, ser criativo e rápido nas palavras; estimula o dom da palavra falada. Sementes de Girassol Auxilia na cura espiritual e na atração. Sucupira Faz uma limpeza espiritual, uma descarga muito forte e ao mesmo tempo uma reorganização energética. Tomilho (Thymus vulgaris) Ativa a glândula tiroide; permite sentir o gosto apurado dos alimentos, melhora a comunicação em trabalhos de equipe e aumenta a compreensão entre as partes. Valeriana (Valeriana officinalis) Combate sentimentos negativos; ajuda a aprender a ver as coisas boas existentes depois das crises, ter personalidade para enfrentar os maus momentos, mantendo-se de bom humor. Read the full article

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wildguppies · 2 years

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A pair of peacock bass (Cichla ocellaris) guarding their eggs in Bella Vista, Bolivia (video) →

Biotope in my study, a low-tech natural aquarium

Posted on September 27, 2009 by tuncali

Bitope in my study. A low-tech natural aquarium. Click on to view the bigger picture.

Like natural garden ponds this aquarium has no filter, no heater, no artificial light, no electrical equipment at all. It is a silent aquarium, a piece of real tranquility. It receives natural sunlight directly from the window. The temperature may drop to 16°C in winter, and rise up to 28°C in summer, but no problem; the inhabitants are suitably selected subtropical species. The marginal plants, especially the umbrella plants (Cyperus alternifolius) keep the water much cleaner than any manmade filter can. Because the nitrate and phosphate levels are so low that they are practically immeasurable, even direct sun light for a couple of hours doesn’t cause algal blooms. Size of the tank: 120x60x40cm, 40 cm is the height.

Inspired by natural garden ponds I gave no fish food at all in the first eight months because I wanted to have a self-sufficient ecosystem with its own food chain. The fish I added after four months like dwarf croaking gouramis (Trichopsis pumila) and scarlet badis (Dario dario) could flourish by eating young dwarf shrimps, crustaceans and other micro-animals they could find in the aquarium. All these micro-animals could in turn grow and multiply well by eating algae and plant remains. My only input to this ecosystem were dried beech leaves from the nearby wood.

Half pyramid structure with foam sheets.

Sand, stones and roots

I began to set up the aquarium in August of 2006 as illustrated in the pictures below. By gluing progressively smaller foam sheets from bottom to top with aquarium silicon I constructed a sort of half pyramid. My objective was having different depths in the tank with a shallow water zone at the back.

These were the first creatures I added to the aquarium (August 2006):

Plants:

Umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius)

Echinodorus rigidifolius and E. cordifolius

Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana)

Java fern (Microsorium pteropus)

Hygrophila polysperma and H. corumbosa

Cryptocoryne wendtii

Anubias nana

Various swimming plants (Lemna minor, Limnobium laevigatum, Ceratopteris cortuna)

Invertebrates:

Striped dwarf shrimps (Neocaridina denticulate)

Mexican amphipods Hyalella azteca

Water louse Asellus aquaticus

Water flea (Daphnia pulex)

Malaysian trumpet snails (Melanoides tuberculata)

Ramshorn snails (Planorbis corneus)

Fish:

4 x dwarf otocinclus, a small algeater (Otocinclus affinis)

I waited four months before adding four scarlet fish (Dario dario), a pair of dwarf croaking gouramis (Trichopsis pumila) and six celestial pearl danio (Celestichthys margaritatus) into the tank. After four months I thought the population of shrimps and arthropods reached a sufficient level for sustaining the carnivorous fish.

Carnivorous fish added after four months (January 2009)

Fish:

4 x Scarlet fish (Dario dario)

A pair of dwarf croaking gouramis (Trichopsis pumila)

6 x Celestial pearl danio (Celestichthys margaritatus), surface dwelling swarm fish

The private life of plants in my biotope

Biotope seen from above, October 2006

I had planted the umbrella plants on the right and left backside corners. They thrived unbelievably fast. I guess, they like natural sunlight. Already after two weeks their reddish roots were all over the tank like hair bundles, also reached the front glass. The umbrella plants are perfect for the purification of water and sand, but they cause a mess in the aquarium and threaten other plants. Mixed up with Java moss the roots of umbrella plants make impenetrable jungles up to the water surface. This jungle like ecological niche might be ideal propagation ground for small invertebrates provided that it receives sufficient oxygen. But I know today that umbrella plants must be kept several meters away from other plants because they are so dominant and fast growing species.

The sword plants (Echinodorus species) with emergent leaves were growing well at the beginning but they slowed down after several months. They are still alive today (July 2007) but almost without growing. I guess, the reason is either iron deficiency, or the harsh competition of umbrella plants.

Java moss is a real nuisance in this aquarium. They propagate so fast that they cover all the other plants in a few weeks. I have to throw away bundles of Java moss regularly. Though it makes ideal hiding and feeding ground for invertebrates and baby fish Java moss is not sustainable in the long term. It requires so much maintenance, that’s not the idea. I should either get rid of Java moss or find a small herbivorous animal which can eat it.

The sword plants and Cryptocoryne wendtii can grow together. The same can be said for the triple Hygrophila polysperma, Anubias nana and Java fern. I think, these are all sustainable, low maintenance plants in most cases. Hygrophila corumbosa didn’t grow well from the beginning. It either didn’t like the conditions of my tank, or couldn’t stand to the competition of other plants.

Front view of biotope, October 2006

As to the swimming plants: They all multiplied fast initially, then came to a standstill, and finally disappeared altogether after eight months, including the invasive common duckweed (Lemna minor). I observed a similar phenomenon in the temporal lakes in Bolivia. The swimming plants which invade the whole surface initially begin to diminish due to the competition of plants like water lilies that have roots at the bottom. Such plants like water lilies don’t depend on the nutrition content of water alone because they can take additional nutrition from the bottom substrate (iron-rich laterit soil in most cases) through their roots. I guess, plants like umbrellas are purifying the water so well in my tank that even invasive plants like duckweeds must starve.

To summarize what I learned through all these observations, mixing up plants after the visual aesthetic, or visual imagination without the support of experience never give satisfactory results. Each species, or each compatible group of species must have sufficient area in the tank. Otherwise, the dominant group will invade the whole aquarium unless you fight against it with a high level of maintenance. For example, I would have only umbrella plants and Java moss in an aquarium, provided that I am ready to throw away the excess Java moss regularly. Or only sword plants (Echinodorus species) and Cryptocoryne wendtii in another. Water lilies can be kept in large aquariums, or better ponds with sufficient distance from other plants.

The private life of invertebrates and fish in my biotope

Male scarlet badis (Dario dario)

I never saw the water louse (Asellus aquaticus) again after I added them to the tank. I had hoped that they would thrive among the beech leaves which I collected from the nearby wood because they are perfect herbivores for any ecosystem. Their larvae could be excellent addition to the food chain for the fish. I still don’t know today (July 2007) if any of them could survive. But I guess, they need a hibernation period in really cold water in winter which is not possible in a home aquarium.

The dwarf shrimps (Neocaridina denticulate) thrived extremely well and reached an unbelievable population in just four months. I guess, they liked the clean nitrate-free water. After four months I could see baby shrimps everywhere in the tank. Because there were no enemies like carnivorous fish they were foraging freely during the day. They changed their behavior after I added the carnivorous fish like the scarlet badis or dwarf croaking gouramis. They began to live nocturnal and hide during the day, especially the small babies. Though some of them fall prey to fish their population was big enough and stable after four months with the carnivorous fish.

The Mexican amphipods (Hyalella azteca) are I think ideal animals for any biotope aquarium. They are the North American version of the better known fresh water shrimp Gammarus pulex. They are but smaller, and more resistant to higher temperatures, oxygen deficiency and organic pollution in water. Hyalella azteca can grow up to 1 cm, though it generally remains smaller. It’s generally said that they require hard water (GH over 10) for breeding. Initially I thought baby Hyalella azteca would be ideal food for the fish. And because the scarlet badis or dwarf croaking gouramy are not large enough to eat adults a sustainable population would be feasible for the long term. But I had suspicions about their breeding potential because the water was maybe not hard enough (GH = 8).

Female scarlet badis, a death sentence for all

But the Mexican amphipods could multiply quite well even though not as prolific as the dwarf shrimps. They also switched over to night life like shrimps after I added the carnivorous fish. But I guess, they are not as good as shrimps in escaping predators, especially the baby arthropods. Nevertheless, I can still see today Mexican amphipods at night among the plants when I look with a torch. I guess, most of them are hiding among the stones and gravel.

The Malaysian trumpet snails (Melanoides tuberculata) are voluntary recycling workers. They keep the sand clean just like the earthworms do for soil. They generally hide in the sand during the day and come out at night. They are hermaphrodites carrying both sexual organs on a single body. They can fertilize themselves (I don’t know if they can do cross fertilizing) and generally they are prolific breeders. I had started with ten trumpet snails a year ago. Now I can see lots of them. Trumpet or ramshorn, snails are indispensable agents for recycling in an ecosystem. They break down the organic matter before bacteria do and make them easily available for plants. This is exactly the type of recycling we need with a low bacteria level.

Water fleas (Daphnia pulex) could also multiply very well in the first four months with the algeater dwarf Otocinclus as the only resident fish. They disappeared in a few days after the arrival of scarlet badis. I was sorry for my water fleas and for the diminishing biodiversity but I knew that the water fleas had no chance. But I know today that the common water flea can easily be a part of such an ecosystem with shrimps and plant eaters without the carnivorous fish.

Croaking dwarf gouramy (Trichopsis pumila)

About three months after the initial set up I thought, the population of shrimps reached a sufficient level for sustaining tiny carnivorous fish, and added four young male scarlet badis to the tank (November 2006). Only males, because I couldn’t find any females. It’s somehow very difficult to find female scarlet fish. I added a pair of dwarf croaking gouramis in December.

Scarlet badis (Dario Dario) is a magnificent tiny fish of Indian origin whose size can hardly exceed 2.5 cm. Because it lives in ponds and lakes in high altitude plateaus it likes cool water, but it tolerates temporary higher temperatures like 28°C. Dario dario is in general a hardy fish. It is resistant to diseases and adaptable to various water conditions. But they rarely accept staple food; they need live foods. That’s why they are not easy fish to keep in any home aquarium, but ideal candidates with their tiny size for a self-sufficient biotope aquarium. They are very beautiful. They resemble the anemone fish of coral reefs with their bright colors.

My four young scarlet fish thrived in the biotope without any additional food. In several months they became colorful and aggressive adults. Each had its own territory in the tank. They were slimmer, more colorful, more aggressive and agile than the scarlet fish I have seen in some industrial aquariums. Even their behaviors were different. They weren’t showing up the whole day like a porcelain piece in a vitrine. They were hiding most of the day only to appear at dawn and dusk times. They were briefly but efficiently searching for food and showing other males who is the boss in their territory. After five months my scarlet badis were still as healthy as iron, and I was sure that they could find sufficient food in the tank. This was the aquarium now which I enjoyed most because I could observe more natural behaviors. How should I find wives for my scarlets on heat?

Female dwarf yellow cichlid (Apistogramma borellii)

It was a mistake to put dwarf croaking gouramis to the tank. I had initially hoped that they would remain near to the surface and leave bottom areas to scarlets. But they didn’t. Maybe due to lack of swimming plants on the surface they looked for hiding places on the bottom and dominated scarlet fish. Though they looked healthy enough I think my unheated aquarium was too cool for the gouramis. So, after three months I separated them to another natural but heated aquarium. They are still living there together with Betta imbellis. They could even produce some young fish in the meantime.

Celestial pearl danios (Celestichthys margaritatus) are small swarm fish with Asian origin. They are close relatives of the well-known zebra danio (Danio rerio). I preferred pearl danios to zebra danios because they are smaller, calmer and they don’t have the habit of jumping off the aquarium. Like scarlets they can perfectly be kept in unheated aquariums with temperatures varying between 15° and 25°C. Pearl danios proved quite compatible with scarlet badis because they are peaceful and surface dwelling swarm fish. They look healthy and satisfied but I am not sure if they will get enough food in the long term. Maybe they are too large a burden for the food chain of a small biotope without insects raining from the sky.

Male yellow dwarf cichlid (Apistogramma borellii)

All went very well until I found female scarlets from a private breeder in Germany. My male scarlets were very happy for a couple of days. But only a couple of days because all the fish except pearl danios died, I guess, due to a disease carried by female scarlets. A tragic end to my experience with scarlets. Since then, I am keeping dwarf yellow cichlids (Apistogramma borellii), another subtropical species.

Unfortunately, I had to give up my self-sufficiency concept with borellis because they are not tiny enough like scarlet badis. I had to begin giving some supplementary food even in miniscule amounts. Nevertheless, I am now quite sure that the self-sufficiency concept was a success with the tiny scarlet fish.

#biotope

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