#fish tank water test kit

[guppysaquariumproducts]

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[chipped-chimera]

Agonising over when to get another Betta for this tank ... I know in my head I should do it sooner than later because the longer I leave it the less choice I have when it comes to the current stock my store has but ...

I'm still ripped up over Fish Karlach's death. I had her for such a short time and I still miss her, and I'm not sure my tank is in the clear. Another Corydora, a more mature one too, passed away but I noticed this one developing a problem around the same time the issue with the Betta started, and after a chat with my shop bought stronger medicine since what I was using probably wasn't cutting it - but I think in the end that was just too much for her. She was on the way out and I probably could have saved her if I went for help sooner but couldn't really do much while waiting to be clear of COVID (absolutely shit timing btw).

I was looking at the females at the shop on that day and just ... I didn't want them. I wanted her back. I know it's just my extremely bad luck, I did just about everything right with the knowledge I had available at the time and literally dealing with COVID, but it just hurts when like, I know there are betta fish out there living in unheated, unfiltered shitty, tiny tanks with plastic plants still live whereas mine, in a carefully managed heavily planted tank had to die. It's not fair.

What also sucks is with this shipment at the store, all the females are just marbles- maybe even from the same spawn and I'm straight up allergic to that gene because I know of its high risk for tumors. I generally don't want a marble. At all. But unfortunately all the other non-marble, specific-type fish are all Males, which I think would be more likely to have a behavioural issue in a community tank considering all the females are still stocked together so they're used to other fish already. I don't really have much in the way of other options unless I take a near 2hr drive way north of my city but even then fish stocking in Western Australia just plain sucks.

Maybe I'll wait a week. Idk. But pretty sure the methalyne blue that went in the tank will have killed off any remaining bacteria (what was theorised to be the cause) kicking around in there. I definitely know there are no parasites, since that treatment ran for like 2 weeks. Not really wanting to do a full course of methalyne blue though since I could tell some of my plants weren't liking it, and the one fish I was treating for died quickly anyway. Still a decent amount in there, just less. Probably need two more water changes to clear it.

I need to move on but goddamn I don't think I could deal with another sick fish.

[kaijuno]

It's currently fair season all around our state.

And in true, unfortunate fair fashion, they're giving away live animals as prizes again.

Goldfish have gained a reputation for dying quickly. Which leads many to think of them as fun little toys rather than living beings.

But be aware- They're not dying because they have naturally short lifespans. They're dying from neglect..

The #1 reason goldfish die is because they cannot survive longer than a few weeks without properly aerated water and most people are keeping them in a tiny bowl of stagnant water where they are literally suffocating to death.

If given the proper care though, goldfish can grow to 8+ inches long and live 20 years. Something to think about before making the impulsive decision to bring one home with you from the fair.

This is what proper goldfish care looks like:

🐟 Depending on the type, goldfish should be housed in a habitat that provides about 20 gallons of water per fish. However some varieties require a larger amount of space, around 50–100 gallons.

🐟 Good water quality is critical for keeping a goldfish healthy. The pH should range between 7–8.4 and you should test the water frequently with a water quality test kit.

🐟 Water aeration is vital to maintain oxygen levels within their habitat so they can breathe. This can be provided with an air pump and air stone.

🐟 Filtration is important because goldfish are messy. A filter helps remove small particulates, and it also houses a large portion of the biological filtration needed to keep your water parameters healthy and liveable.

🐟 Unlike most aquarium fish, Goldfish are most comfortable around 72–76 F. So depending on your room temperature, you may or may not need a heater to keep your tank within this range. You should always have a thermometer in your tank to ensure your water temperature is within a healthy range.

🐟 Goldfish are predominately omnivores and should have a diet consisting mostly of sinking pellets. Flake foods are not recommended as it often doesn’t sink and if a goldfish eats at the surface too much, they can develop buoyancy issues. Enrichment food ideas are krill, Daphnia and Brine shrimp.

It doesn't matter that it's "just a fish." They still deserve more than bare minimum care. Monetarily its life may only be worth 25-60 cents to you, or whatever you spent to win it at the fair- but morally, it's still a living creature and it deserves a proper chance.

Thank you.

[chryza]

would a beta fish be a good starter fish? how big does the bowl need to be? should i just get one at petsmart or is there a better plan? how often do i need to clean the bowl? should i get a second bowl to swap between when its time to clean or will shifting from one bowl to another be a problem for the fish? how often do i feed the beta?

HELLO I LOVE YOU ANON

Yes! Betta fish are fantastic starter fish for someone looking to get into aquariums, but I think one of the biggest misconceptions is that fish are "easy" pets. To really take good care of your fish, it's a significant investment and requires consistent time investment. For me, setting up a tank from scratch usually costs between $75-$150.

The biggest thing to note is that bowls are insufficient for a betta (Or really any fish). If you're thinking about getting a fish, you should invest in a good tank with a filter, and additionally purchase a heater (Bettas are tropical! They like water between 75-85 degrees).

Aquarists bitch and fight with each other about the minimum requirement for betta fish, I've seen everything from 2.5-10 gallons be listed as "the minimum". 5 gallons is what you should shoot for imo because it's easier to keep your nitrogen cycle going (which you can research if you don't know already!). I have a 3 gallon tank I keep because my room is small and I'm experienced enough to be able to monitor my water quality.

Speaking of, you'll also want to buy a water testing kit that tests for the Ammonia, Nitrate, and Nitrite levels in your tank. Starting a tank for a fish is a big responsibility that requires kickstarting the bacterial cycle that breaks down waste and keeps the water safe for the fish. Typically, a tank will require a 25%-50% water change every week to two weeks so you can keep your fish in the water while you change it (testing the water will let you know how often your tank needs changing). You don't want to dump out all the water because it will kill the necessary bacteria colonies!

Finally, as for feeding, I recommend feeding twice a day. I loved to spoil my betta with frozen food, but dried food or pellets work just as well, though my favorite betta food is the Betta Dial-a-Treat that has different protein options.

EDIT: About where to buy fish. Personally I prefer petco over petsmart because petco tends to stock better options for the morphs I like (Koi, platinums, dumbos) but if you only have petsmart that's fine. However, don't feel limited by that! See if you have a local fish/pet store to shop at instead. When I got more experienced in the hobby, I began importing fish directly from Thailand and Indonesia to get what I wanted!

Fish are a lot more work than people realize! But if you give your betta fish an ideal habitat, you'll see their personalities blossom and they'll show you their intelligence and understanding in ways that are amazing for creatures so small! That's why bettas are my favorite--every single one is its own individual with preferred tastes and habits. It's a really rewarding hobby imo.

[mod2amaryllis]

hey, i wanted a little advice. i've had a betta fish for a couple months, but hes suddenly passed away. according to my water test kit, the parameters are fine. he lived in a 20 gallon in a planted aquarium, and seemed fine until recently. he had a filter and a heater, and the plants had a light so they can photosynthesize. i wasn't there when it happened, but the only clue i have is what looked like black... lining? to his scales. the only things i can think of that were off is that the water here is hard and high ph, but it hasn't been anything catastrophic and i've never had issues with it before. i dunno i'm just wondering if theres something i missed? i really liked the little guy.

I'm so sorry to hear that </3 without pics it's hard to say, even with pics it can be hard to say! :( black scales only sounds like normal color change to me.

unfortunately this can be par for the course with bettas... you do everything right, they give no signs, and they die. there's a lot genetically wrong with them due to over breeding for color. it really sounds like you did nothing wrong. even the high ph; i have hard water, it's not unusual to come out of the tap at 8 and none of the fish have ever complained (as long as there's no big swings).

it's sad, these little animals leave such a big impression, but don't get discouraged. maybe consider trying another kind of fish when you're ready. my community tanks are so much less stressful than my bettas it's kinda ridiculous lol... or if you still wanna try for bettas, get one that's young and healthy!

[knightdykes]

earlier today I saw a betta on fb marketplace in really bad condition, his fins were practically melting from the ammonia in the tiny, tiny tank this person was selling him in. and it breaks my heart!!!! I finally have a bit of money in my account and it's taking everything I have to not reach out to someone selling a 5 or 10 gallon tank on fb to try to save this poor little guy... but I can't. I can't afford a tank stand, heater, substrate, a water testing kit, water conditioner, medication for the betta, live plants, a light ... the list of bare minumum materials I would need is insane. fish keeping is not a cheap hobby, and I don't have the income necessary to do things the right way. that poor fish is going to die a slow, painful death, and I can't save him.

[bogspotting]

The Bog Gets a Checkup

Drum roll, please...

Water chemistry!

Lake health!

Startling the neighbors by taking a turkey baster and going nuts on the Bog!

This week had it all and I'm here to report that, despite the neighbors threatening to call the police on me (note: they do not own the Bog. i wasn't anywhere near their property. They're just like this.), I put together a preliminary health check on the bog!

I will preface this in big red letters: I am not a biochemist. I’m not even a biologist. I’m just some guy with a few fancy test kits they use on their fish tank to check water quality. I followed the outline of the EPA’s National Lakes Assessment (found here: https://nationallakesassessment.epa.gov/webreport/) and a few other resources. Note that I am not entirely sure what the bog qualifies as, and I don’t have the tools to measure the depth of the bog in most spots, but it seems to fit the bill for this survey. I also, for the sake of ease, did my best to translate these findings into a 1-10 scale, with 1 being “this water is dead” and 10 being “call Gwyneth Paltrow, she can bottle and sell this water as a magical health supplement”. 

TL;DR: the bog is being smothered by garbage and dying organic matter.

Here’s what I put together: 

The most obvious measure of lake health is anthropogenic disturbance—basically, how much people have messed with the bog. The answer here is a lot. There is always trash floating in the water, stuck to the vegetation on the shores, half-buried in the muck… Which doesn’t lead to a very healthy lake. I give the Bog a 4/10 on the anthropogenic disturbance scale. It isn’t toxic sludge, but it could be kept cleaner. 

Then comes something known as Secchi Depth, which is a measure of how clear the water is. It’s a really neat little tool that you lower into the water and mark when it vanishes. 

Reports vary, but, in general, you want to aim for a 2-meter (or 6 feet) Secchi depth to be really healthy—the Bog scored at 2 feet. Not amazing. 3/10. 

Another physical aspect of lake health is water color. I pulled up a jar of the Bog and it’s the color of ginger ale. My research suggest that it’s a mix of algae and tannins—which is to be expected, considering how much plant matter is decaying in the bog. 

Look at this. Ick. 

7/10. 

Onto the chemistry! I am not a chemist, but I am a fish keeper and I do this kind of thing a lot. I pulled out my API freshwater testing kit to see what the Bog was like, and here’s what I came away with: 

pH: 7.4 

Square within the average range for lakes and streams, but considered a little basic for fish eggs and fry. We’ll call that a 8/10. 

Ammonia: .75ppm 

Not amazing. Ammonia is highly toxic, it comes from the breakdown of waste. There is a way to tell just how toxic, based on the pH and temperature, but it was a little too much math for me to manage on my own… Anyways, 5/10. 

Nitrite: 0ppm 

Nitrites are toxic too, so this is great. You get nitrites when ammonia is broken down by nitrifying bacteria, so if you have too much ammonia, you’ll usually have too many nitrites. 10/10. 

Nitrates: 2.5ppm 

The pretty older sister of Nitrites, when nitrites are broken down they turn into nitrates, which are less harmful. This is all part of the nitrogen cycle, which is something every aquarium owner both respects and fears. Lakes tend to do it on their own, however. 9/10

What does this all tell us? 

It tells us that the Bog is low on ammonia-oxidizing bacteria (AOB) but is doing alright on nitrite-oxidizing bacteria (NOB). I’m not entirely certain why that’s the case, but the Bog produces (or is supplied with) more ammonia than the AOB can consume. The reason the nitrites are there is likely due to the lack of submerged plantlife. Did I mention that there aren’t any plants in the Bog? Around it, sure, but in it? I haven’t seen anything. The entire bottom is covered in a thick layer of mulm (a mud-like substance made from decaying organic matter), which I assume has choked out the plants. Lack of plants means there’s nothing to eat up all those nitrates. 

Anyhow. 

Phosphates. 

Phosphates are an interesting measure of lake health. Essentially, phosphates are nutrients and having too many of them can lead to fluctuations in algae (the Bog has incredible algae blooms every fall—and it reeks) and even the development of blue-green algae, which creates cyanobacteria, which is very, very deadly. 

So I tested for both phosphates and blue-green algae. 

And there were 0 phosphates. 

No blue-green algae either, which is nice, but no phosphates is unusual. It explains the lack of plant growth, since phosphates are required for plants to exist, but it doesn’t explain the insane algae blooms we get every year. 

I can speculate that those blooms could coincide with people using fertilizer on their lawns to prep for winter, the runoff from which might cause a spike that encourages the algae, but I can’t test that. It could also be a cumulative effect from the runoff throughout the summer. I don’t know. It was unusual. The test, which should have turned a nice seafoam green, was essentially clear. Weird days. 

But! Good news! No blue-green algae, which means no cyanobacteria! The test for that was, in short, terrifying. You put water in a tube and then the tube explodes. It’s only BARELY mentioned that this will happen. It gets lava hot, spews boiling water everywhere, and smells like demons. But no cyanotoxins! Hooray! 10/10 for that! 5/10 for the phosphates. 

Let’s talk about the big boy now. The heavy hitter. The measurement that is first on the list of lake health measurements: dissolved oxygen. 

According to the USGS, “The oxygen content of surface waters of normal salinity in the summer is typically more than 8 milligrams per liter (8 mg/L); when oxygen concentrations are less than 2 mg/L, the water is defined as hypoxic (CENR, 2000). The hypoxia kills many organisms that cannot escape, and thus the hypoxic zone is informally known as the “dead zone.”” 

The lake is sitting at a 6 mg/l DO. Which is low. Why? Probably the lack of plants. This explains the algal blooms, at least, and why the lake smells like death on very hot days, when dissolved oxygen would be at its lowest. It could also suggest an excess of bacteria. 

4/10. 

65/100. A failing grade, but it could be worse! You can definitely pull that up by doing some extra credit! The EPA scale would likely call it "fair". I was able to use this nifty tool to look at some of my measurements and compare them to other lakes in my area: https://owshiny.epa.gov/nla-lake-context-tool/. This is what popped up for Secchi depth:

I was also able to reference some other data in terms of percentiles using this: https://nationallakesassessment.epa.gov/dashboard/?&view=indicator&studypop=al&subpop=epa+region+3&label=pe&condition=good&diff=2v3 If you're looking to check the health of your local body of water (assuming it hasn't already been done! You can check for that too!), I highly recommend poking around the EPA's resources.

If the Bog were one of my tanks, it'd be getting a thorough cleaning, an airstone, and a bunch of live plants.

[thegreataxolotlblog]

Axolotl's as pets

Despite being endangered, Axolotls are gaining a quick market as pets. whether or not this is good will be covered in a later post but for now we're talking about Axolotl's as pets,

Axolotl Behaviour and Temperament

While axolotls are relatively hardy to slight fluctuations in their environment, they also have delicate, soft bodies with permeable skin. In fact, most of their body is made of cartilage rather than bone. That means they should not be handled unless absolutely necessary. And if you do have to move them out of their tank, do so with a fine mesh net that won't entangle any of their body parts.

Once you have their housing setup correct, you generally only have to spend a few hours per week on feeding and cleaning. The rest is simply enjoying them as a quiet, aquatic companion. Axolotls tend to be fairly bold and are perfectly content to move about their tank as they're being watched by their humans. Some will come up to the side of their tank when a person is there observing them.

However, they aren’t particularly social animals and don’t require any tank companions. They should not be kept with other species as axolotls might try to eat pet fish, and the fish sometimes nip at them, as well. You even should be cautious about housing them with other axolotls. Juvenile axolotls can be cannibalistic toward one another, so they are best raised in separate enclosures. Adults can potentially be housed together, but still, watch out for cannibalistic tendencies. If a body part gets bitten off by a tank mate, an axolotl actually can regenerate it over time. However, it's still best to avoid this situation altogether.

Housing the Axolotl

At least a 15- to 20-gallon fish tank is recommended for axolotls. Make sure the tank has a secure lid, as it's not uncommon for these animals to try to jump out of their enclosure. A land area is unnecessary in the tank for these fully aquatic animals. At a minimum, the water depth should be slightly more than the length of your axolotl. But adding extra depth will help with water quality and give your animal more room to move.

Keep the tank in a cool room away from bright sunlight with the water temperature between 57 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit (14 and 20 degrees Celsius); don't allow it to get above 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius). No special lighting is required for axolotls (unlike many reptiles). In fact, a dark hiding spot, such as a flower pot laid on its side or an aquarium castle, is often appreciated.

Some owners opt to leave the bottom of the tank bare, though others believe this might stress the axolotl if it can't get a foothold on the smooth bottom. If gravel is used on the bottom, it must be coarse gravel that's bigger than the axolotl's head. Fine gravel might be ingested and cause an obstruction.

Tap water treated with an aquarium water conditioner that removes chlorine and chloramines is fine for axolotls. Never use distilled water, and make sure the pH of the water remains between 6.5 and 7.5. (You can find a water test kit to check at most pet stores.) Most owners find a filtered aquarium is easier to maintain because unfiltered water needs frequent changing to remove waste. However, if you choose to have a filter on the tank, the filtration rate should be slow. Powerful filters that create strong currents can stress an axolotl.

For a filtered tank, cleaning typically consists of a 20% water change each week, as well as siphoning waste from the bottom of the tank. If you're not using a filter, you likely will have to do a 20% water change daily or every other day. Never do a full water change, as this can alter the water chemistry too drastically and stress your Axolotl.

Food and Water

In the wild, axolotls feed on snails, worms, crustaceans, small fish, and small amphibians. In captivity, they can be fed a variety of brine shrimp, small strips of beef or liver, earthworms, bloodworms, tubifex worms, other frozen fish foods, and commercial fish pellets. Do not feed any worms or fish you caught yourself, as they can carry parasites. In general, no vitamin or mineral supplements are necessary.

Consult your veterinarian regarding the amount of food to offer, as well as how often to feed your axolotl, as this varies depending on age and size. In general, many adults take two to three feedings per week. One of the best methods to feed is by holding the food in round-nosed forceps in the tank near the animal. You also can simply drop the food in the water as close to the axolotl as possible. If your axolotl isn't interested in eating much during the day, try feeding it in the evening when it's typically more active. Remove any uneaten food from the tank every day to keep the water clean.

Common Health Problems

A notable characteristic of axolotls is their regenerative powers. In the case of injuries that aren’t life-threatening, they’re able to regrow their limbs, tail, and even other body parts, such as heart and eye tissue.

But this remarkable ability doesn't protect them from all health issues. Unsanitary tank conditions can lead to viral or bacterial infections, the signs of which include lethargy and a lack of appetite. Plus, ammonia build-up from waste in the tank can be toxic. If this occurs, it can interfere with the respiratory process causing damage to the gills as well as result in neurological damage.

Moreover, axolotls with gravel in their tank that's small enough to eat are prone to gastrointestinal obstructions. If your axolotl experiences an obstruction, it will likely be sluggish and not want to eat. And if it's not promptly treated, death can occur quickly.

Furthermore, axolotls rarely do undergo metamorphosis into a terrestrial form. The reasons for this are poorly understood, though it might have to do with hormones or water characteristics. The metamorphosis can be extremely stressful for an axolotl, and it can significantly shorten its lifespan. If you notice abnormal changes to your animal's body, such as it starting to grow larger, have a veterinarian who specializes in exotic pets examine it as soon as possible.

(Photo of unhealthy Axolotl)

Purchasing Your Axolotl

Always acquire an animal from a reputable breeder or rescue group. It's best not to buy an axolotl through the internet or a classified ad unless you've spoken directly with the seller, and they're able to provide you with adequate information on the animal. If they can't give you thorough documentation on its origin and health history, that's a red flag. It's also ideal to speak with people who have acquired animals from that seller to uncover any concerns. Plus, a local exotic veterinarian often can direct you to a good breeder or rescue.

Expect to pay between $20 and $70 on average. Animals with more rare coloring, such as copper, tend to cost more. A healthy axolotl will be active, and it might accept food if you offer it. Its skin shouldn't be flaky, and its body should be somewhat plump (as opposed to underweight), though it shouldn't have any abnormal swelling.

All information above was sourced from The Spruce Pets

[lovehymndead]

sometimes i forget im autistic and then someone will come into my work and ask if i know anything about bettas and suddenly i am alive. Like yes actually that tank is too small you should get a bigger tank and also let it cycle for 2-5 days at minimum and also you need a heater and a filter This filter is better than this one Thsi heater willl blow up if you use it Also you shouuld get these plants these are really good plants Also you should use gravel instead of sand Also did you know you can teach bettas tricks? Did you know your fish can recognize you and will swim up to you and knows when you have food in your hand? Did you know male bettas will sometimes make bubble nests and its very cute? Also you should get some test strips to manage your water quality but the API liquid test kit is better if youre gonna get really serious about your fish Which you will because it s Awesome and So so fun

[misssy721]

If you’ve ever wanted to add a touch of beauty and tranquility to your home, a fish tank is a great place to start. Caring for fish can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience, but it’s important to understand the basics of fish care. A beginner's guide to caring for fish can help you get started on the right foot. This guide will provide you with tips and tricks for setting up and maintaining a healthy aquarium. From selecting the right aquarium to maintaining the right levels of temperature and pH, these tips and tricks will help ensure your fish stay healthy and happy. You’ll also learn how to properly feed your fish, keep your tank clean, and introduce new fish to your tank. With the right knowledge, you can easily create a beautiful, vibrant home for your fish. Choosing the Right Aquarium Before you even start shopping for supplies, you’ll first need to decide on the size of your aquarium. Start by choosing an aquarium that’s large enough to comfortably house your desired amount of fish. For example, most freshwater fish should be kept in a tank that’s at least 10 gallons. Saltwater fish, on the other hand, require larger aquariums. Your aquarium should also have ample room for your fish to swim and explore. If you decide to keep fish that grow large, you may need a larger aquarium. You’ll also want to make sure you choose an aquarium made with high-quality materials. Avoid aquariums made with plastic, as these are prone to cracking and breaking. Setting Up the Aquarium Before you add fish to your aquarium, it’s important to properly set up and cycle the tank. You’ll first need to clean and sterilize the aquarium and all the materials used to set it up. Avoid cleaners that contain chlorine or phenols, as these may harm your fish. You’ll also want to make sure that you add live bacteria to your filter to help cycle the tank. Cycling the tank will allow beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter, breaking down harmful ammonia and nitrite in the water. It will also help your fish survive in the tank by reducing their stress levels. Once your aquarium has cycled and you’ve added your fish, you’ll need to maintain certain levels of water quality to ensure your fish stay healthy. You’ll want to keep your water clean by performing regular water changes. You should also test the water to make sure it’s at the right pH level. Maintaining the Right Temperature and pH The next step in caring for your fish is maintaining the right temperature and pH levels in the tank. The ideal temperature for a freshwater tank is between 72 and 79 degrees Fahrenheit. You can maintain this temperature by using a heater or a fish tank heater. A saltwater tank will have a higher temperature range of 68 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit. You can maintain this temperature by using a saltwater aquarium heater. You’ll also need to monitor your tank’s pH levels. The pH of a freshwater tank should be between 6 and 8, while the pH of a saltwater tank should be between 8 and 10. You can easily monitor your tank’s pH levels using a water test kit. To keep your tank at the correct pH level, you’ll need to add buffer to your tank. Feeding Your Fish The type of fish you keep will determine the best way to feed them. However, most fish can be fed a diet of aquatic pellets or flakes, freeze-dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, or a variety of other foods. You’ll also want to make sure you feed your fish the right amount of food. Feeding your fish the right amount of food will help keep your water clean and your fish healthy. It will also prevent your fish from growing too fast or getting sick. If you feed your fish too much, they may produce more waste. This will cause excess ammonia to build up in your tank, which can be harmful to your fish. Keeping the Tank Clean Keeping your tank clean is another essential part of fish care. You’ll need to remove fish waste from the water to prevent harmful ammonia from building up. You’ll also want to remove any uneaten food from the water to prevent it from rotting.

Weekly water changes will help keep your water clean and healthy. To do a weekly water change, you’ll need to take out 30% of your water, add new water, and replace your filter. Introducing New Fish to the Tank Once your aquarium has cycled and you’ve selected your fish, you’ll need to introduce them to your tank slowly. Start by adding smaller fish to your tank first, then add larger fish. Next, add your filter, followed by your aquarium decorations. Doing it this way will allow your filter to cycle the water and help keep your fish safe. Signs of a Healthy Aquarium A healthy fish tank will have vibrant, lively fish. Healthy fish will have shiny skin and clean, unclogged fins. They’ll also eat their food regularly and interact with each other. Healthy fish are also less prone to disease, so keeping them healthy will help keep your tank healthy. A healthy aquarium also has clean water that’s free from harmful bacteria and other contaminants. You can test your water for harmful bacteria and other contaminants using water test strips. These strips allow you to test your water for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and pH levels. Troubleshooting Common Issues Aquarium fish can often be affected by harmful bacteria and other contaminants. If your fish start to show signs of disease, such as losing their color or clamped fins, you may need to treat your tank. You can treat your tank by adding aquarium salt, aquarium antibiotics, aquarium anti-fungal medications, aquarium anti-parasitic medications, aquarium anti-protozoan medications, and aquarium anti-virals. You can also control the temperature in your tank to help prevent diseases. Some fish diseases thrive in warm water, while others thrive in cold water. Controlling the temperature in your tank can help keep your fish healthy. Caring for Specialized Fish Certain fish species require special attention. For example, you’ll need to keep your tetras at the right temperature and feed them a special diet. If you’re unsure if your desired fish species requires any special attention, ask a fish expert at your local pet store. If you plan on keeping tropical fish, you’ll need to be mindful of the temperature in your tank. Tropical fish prefer warmer water, so you’ll need to keep your tank above 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Alternatively, you may want to consider keeping tropical fish in a tank that’s kept at a cooler temperature, such as a goldfish tank. Aquarium Supplies and Equipment Once you have your aquarium set up, you’ll need to stock it with supplies and equipment. You’ll need to choose a filter, heater, aquarium light, gravel or sand, decorations, and a thermometer. Additionally, you may want to purchase a water test kit to keep track of the water quality in your tank. Conclusion A fish tank is a great addition to any home. A beginner’s guide to caring for fish can help you set up the perfect aquarium. Begin by choosing the right aquarium size, setting up the aquarium, and cycling the tank. Once your aquarium is set up, you’ll need to maintain the right temperature and pH levels and keep the tank clean. When your aquarium is ready, you can choose fish to add to your tank. With the right equipment and supplies, your aquarium will be beautiful and healthy.

[caffeine-n-words]

On Goldfish

Let's talk about goldfish. It's a popular first-time pet for people with toddlers--they think they can get a couple, put them in a tiny tank, drop in some flakes, so it's considered easy to care for. The toddler can look at it without worrying about the kid chasing around a cat or dog, which might hurt them if said-child does something foolish, like pull on a cat's tail. If it dies after a few months, oh well! It's just a goldfish. And if it gets too big and the owners don't want it anymore, it's often illegally released into a local stream or lake.

There are many, many problems with this entire mentality.

This is going to be an extremely brief overview of goldfish care. If you're considering getting one, please do your research before buying, because I guarantee it's more complicated than you think it is. Do not rely on pet store employees to know everything--they may be new, they may be filling in from another section, they may have zero interest in fish and only spit out the company line, they may still be learning and make mistakes.

Goldfish are a species of carp from China. If you get tired of your fish, please rehome it or donate it to an aquatic life rescue. Do not release it; it's invasive and will destroy the local ecosystem. We already have too many to deal with as it is.

Likewise, this fish shouldn't die after after a few months. With proper care, they can live 10+ years.

So then, what constitutes "proper care"?

Let's start with the tank. Do not place your goldfish in a dinky, 1-gallon bowl. Those things are incapable of supporting a filter or air pump, and getting the water balance correct is extremely difficult. Most people do this, and their fish dies within months. An experienced hobbyist could probably keep it alive for a few years--5 max.

For smaller species meant to live in a tank, they should be provided 10-20 gallons per fish.

Read that again.

PER

FISH.

They are not necessarily schooling fish. They're fine either alone or in a group. That's a big tank to deal with, so if you're just starting out and are determined to get a goldfish, get a smaller species and a 10 gallon tank. They even sell kits. If properly kept, these guys can live up to 10 years.

Then there are larger species. These ones can get up to 18 inches and should live in ponds. The goldfish you see at fairs? The feeder fish you see in pet stores? These are the ones that get enormous. If they're kept in a properly maintenanced pond, they can live 15-20 years, and there have been reports of longer--the oldest recorded was 43, according to Guinness.

Whichever method you decide to use, make sure to regularly test your water so you can keep on top of any problems that might develop. Keep an eye on the temperature, because they're cool water fish--you don't want it getting too much higher than maybe 70F. And they prefer slower currents.

So what do goldfish eat?

Goldfish are omnivores. If you're keeping a tank variety and want something shelf-stable, then goldfish pellets are often preferable to flakes; flakes don't sink, and a goldfish that takes in too much air can develop a swim bladder disorder.

You can supplement the fish food with other things, like live or frozen brine shrimp, or vegetables. An adult fish can be fed once per day, but the fish you see in pet shops or have delivered from a private breeder are not adults--they're babies, and they need to be fed several times a day so they can grow properly. The feeding instructions given on fish food often assume you're feeding an adult.

Is your head spinning yet?

I'm not one of those people who insist there are "good" and "bad" starter pets. You should start with whatever fascinates you the most. That fascination will get you through all the research and care requirements.

But goldfish are definitely a challenging starter pet. Again, I urge potential owners to do their research. Make sure you're willing to do everything that's required. Familiarize yourself with potential problems.

And if you decide to do it anyway? I wish you the best of luck and many happy years with your new fish!

[meowmeowuchiha]

how the snikety snack do I do the whole “set up aquarium keep fish alive and happy” thing?? I was gifted a 3 gal and a 5 gal tank and a bunch of this whit powder nonsense (looks like coke and I’m tired rn so I cannot be bothered to dig it out to figure out what it actually is) I’d like to do a Betta in the 3 gal and like maybe a couple small fish in the bigger one?? Do you have any recommendations? Thank you for your time and putting up with this ramble

DFZCGdgchvj

Okay so

Without knowing what the white powder is I can't tell you anything about that.

As for setting it up, it's going to be the same for a betta as it is for other small fish!!!

Find the substrate you want (gravel is easier to clean, but sometimes people would rather use sand) and after you rinse it (with gravel at least you poke a bunch of tiny holes in the bottom, cut the top off, then run it under the faucet) just dump it in the tank! Typically you want roughly a pound of substrate for each one gallon, but this can vary depending on how deep you want the substrate and the overall footprint of the tank.

Then, select an appropriately sized filter and heater. Personally, I don't recommend anything Tetra brand, as I've heard far more bad than good about it. My top recommendation for filters is the Fluval aquaclear series, as you can decide what kind of filter media you want, can adjust the flow rate, and they typically last a long time. I have the size 20 filter on my 3 gallon (it's recommended for 5-20 gal) and I can adjust the flow rate enough so it doesn't bother my half-moon betta at all!!! For heaters, it's a lot easier. I just have a little aqueon heater for my 3 gallon, and it's worked just fine for me. Just make sure you have a thermometer so you can monitor the temperature of the tank properly, because if you don't, you might not catch it if the heater breaks for some reason.

Then decide on the decor.

That's going to be more personal taste than anything, with the only real exception being if you have fish with very long, flowing fins (like most bettas you'll find in shops). Plastic plants tend to be really rough, and sometimes fish with large fins can knock them into the rough decor and shred them up a bit. So if you get a long finned betta, I recommend either silk or live plants. Most live plants don't require extra care, either! If you want to know more specifically about live aquarium plants, just shoot me another ask. I don't want to do a COMPLETE info dump on you all in one post.

Once you have all that decided, you put it all together and fill it up! If using tap water, you'll need a water conditioner to make it safe. I always recommend Prime. You get the most bang for your buck with that, and it doesn't just get rid of chlorine, but also chloramines, which some places use instead of chlorine. Most other conditioners ONLY remove chlorine.

With the betta, you can typically put one in immediately since they're incredibly hardy, but best practice is to wait for a week or so until the tank "cycles", meaning the nitrogen cycle has stabilized itself. With other fish, you practically HAVE TO wait until the cycle stabilizes. Big chain pet stores and even most local fish stores offer free testing of your water, so you'll know if it's cycled or not. You can also get your own testing kit, and I ALWAYS recommend the liquid test kits, as they're far more accurate and easier to read than the strips. They all have instructions in them and they're easy to follow, even if it can sometimes feel tedious.

Once everything is set up and fish are in there, then it's typically fairly simple.

Turn lights on and off, leaving them on for roughly 8 hours (6-10 is my recommendation if you want to avoid a bunch of algae)

Feed once a day, never any more than the fish can eat within one minute (I prefer pellet foods, as they make far less of a mess and are easier to portion. Bettas will get 2-4 pellets a day, usually)

Change roughly 20% of the water once a week to once every other week, depending on how many fish you have

If any issues like diseases crop up, then you can Google, ask pet store employees (those who work with fish at least), ask others you know who have fish, or ask me again!!!!

Best of luck in your new adventure and don't hesitate to reach out and send me another ask if you need to!!!

[chipped-chimera]

Time, yet again, to wade into a pit of contradictory information as I try to determine what I should do about my nuked tetra population while I'm still doing ich treatment.

(if you have some ideas/opinions about what I should do context below)

This is my first tank, so please be nice 🥺

I have a heavily planted, 20gallon (76L) freshwater aquarium which I had probably researched for about 3 months, then ran empty/with plants for about a month or so? before fish introduction. So absolutely cycled, bombproof setup that I have not seen a whiff of ammonia or nitrates in since I started testing (probably a month after it being cycling empty when my kit arrived).

I introduced 10 green neon tetra, which grew confident very quick within the new tank, like within the next day stopped schooling behaviour, bopping around and doing their own thing. But then I saw white spots appearing. In my delay of trying to determine if it was actually ich and conflicting info about it being 'stress ich' that could minimize in time with the stress reduction - probably me delaying it too because the meds were expensive - I probably doomed them.

I'm angry and sad at the same time, in part towards myself but mostly because I'm mad at the contradictory info leading to delay on a situation that was more time critical given the size of these little fish. Which I think led to their deaths.

I know quarantine is important but given my tank is heavily planted, I was struggling with bioload - as in not enough - so on the day I started ich treatment I put in 6 corycats which have been absolutely fine. So fine in fact I've noticed their barbels getting much longer! They're having a great time in there, and while I've seen some showing sign of being itchy, I've never seen a spot appear. Same with the Starlight Bristlenose, who was actually the first resident - she's weathered the ich outbreak pre-treatment fine (yeah I know it's hard to tell given she's a starlight but I've had a good look at her when I could, she's clear) and while she hides a lot during the day, I think she's happy - there are a stupid amount of tunnels and hidey holes in my setup, the centerpiece is a huge slab of driftwood so she has plenty to rasp on too. All the food is also the best quality I could get, and they get blanched veggies twice a week.

Unfortunately though, the delay was too late for the Tetra. First I lost one. Then more. I went from 10 to 3 today, if I am lucky it will stay at 3. Two of them look very good. One of them has minor body spotting. Worst comes to worst, it'll be 2. I think it'll stay that way, nothing new has been appearing.

What I am worried about now is I know the minimum for tetra is 8. While these guys I think know fairly well the tank is safe, and the presence of the corycats might help in terms of them having another grouping fish around to help them feel more confident, I don't want to be causing them unnecessary stress that might make the situation worse. Two of them left are grouping together, the one I am uncertain about is often hanging out on it's own which is making me worried I'll lose it too.

I am early on in the treatment at full dosage (I spent more time cranking up the dosage slowly since this is a planted tank with inverts, so that probably didn't help the ich situation) 25%~30% water changes daily.

Naturally online opinion on 'should I add fish during ich treatment' is about as confusing as it was when I was just trying to find info on ich. Some say hard no. Some say it's always in tanks anyway, it's the stress, may as well chuck them in during treatment. I'm going to have to grab another bottle of the stuff (so bleeding expensive) and I don't want to use more of it on a quarantine tank - right now anyway.

The treatment I am doing specifically targets parasites (Seachem Paraguard) but I also have Melafix and Pimafix, though I haven't really been dosing either since the smell of it I think irritates the tetra, and Paraguard supposedly has antibacterial elements that also target finrot. If I were to add new fish, I'd probably start adding both during the day, Paraguard goes in at night after a waterchange because it's lights-off after that (degrades under light).

If I added new fish, I'd be doing that for 14 days + maybe one more week just in case. But yeah, I have no fucking clue what to do and I very much want to not fuck this up anymore.

I'm also honestly kind of put off by tetra at this point - compared to the corycats they are very, very nervous and twitchy I think which didn't help their stress levels, even with me trying to make it as stress-free as possible. But also know I'm probably stuck with them if I want them to feel better.

Any thoughts/opinions would be good. I don't really have other treatment options available either btw, either because products are literally not available or the risk of killing plants/hurting other fish is too high (heat is NOT an option, corycats upper-limit is 26C so that's what the tank is set to)

My gut says it's probably okay to add fish, if I keep up treatment. But idk anymore :C

[feathersandfins1]

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[noisycowboyglitter]

Discus Fish Breeding: Choosing the Right Food for Your Breeding Pair

A discus fish breeder is a dedicated aquarist who specializes in the reproduction and rearing of discus fish, one of the most prized and challenging species in the freshwater aquarium hobby. These breeders combine extensive knowledge, meticulous care, and unwavering patience to successfully propagate these stunning, disc-shaped cichlids native to the Amazon basin.

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Discus fish breeding requires a deep understanding of water chemistry, nutrition, and behavioral patterns. Breeders must maintain pristine water conditions, carefully adjusting parameters like temperature, pH, and hardness to mimic the discus' natural habitat. They often use reverse osmosis systems and precise dosing of minerals to achieve the perfect water balance.

Nutrition plays a crucial role in discus breeding. Breeders typically cultivate live foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms, supplementing with high-quality prepared foods to ensure optimal health and vibrant coloration of their stock.

The breeding process itself demands close observation and timely intervention. Breeders must recognize courtship behaviors, provide suitable spawning surfaces, and sometimes assist in the care of fry, which feed on their parents' mucus secretions in the early stages of life.

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Successful discus fish breeders often develop their own lineages, selectively breeding for desirable traits such as color intensity, pattern, and body shape. Many become well-known within the aquarium community, supplying high-quality discus to hobbyists and retailers worldwide.

The work of a discus fish breeder is both an art and a science, requiring dedication, expertise, and a genuine passion for these magnificent aquatic jewels.

For the passionate aquarium seller or keeper, finding the perfect gift can be as diverse and colorful as the fish they care for. Consider practical items like high-quality water testing kits, advanced filtration systems, or LED lighting setups to enhance their aquatic displays. Decorative elements such as unique driftwood pieces, rare aquatic plants, or hand-crafted ornaments can add flair to their tanks.

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For the tech-savvy aquarist, automated feeding systems or smart monitoring devices make excellent gifts. Books on specialized aquascaping techniques or rare fish species can expand their knowledge. Personalized items like custom tank backgrounds or engraved maintenance tools add a thoughtful touch.

For a truly memorable gift, consider vouchers for aquarium supplies or even sponsorship of a coral fragment in their name at a conservation project. These gifts are sure to delight any aquarium enthusiast, supporting their passion for underwater worlds.

Carp fishing presents cater to the specific needs of anglers targeting these elusive freshwater fish. Popular gifts include specialized rod and reel combos, durable landing nets, and comfortable bivvies for long sessions. Bait-related items like boilie rollers, bait boats, or high-quality carp feeds are always appreciated. Tech gadgets such as bite

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alarms and fish finders enhance the fishing experience. For personal touches, consider custom tackle boxes or branded clothing. Books on carp fishing techniques or subscriptions to carp angling magazines make great educational gifts. These presents are sure to excite any carp fishing enthusiast.

[jackjohon]

Swimmingly Good: Tips for Choosing and Caring for Pet Fishes

Introduction:

Adding a fish tank to your home can bring a sense of tranquility and beauty, but it's essential to choose and care for your aquatic pets properly. Whether you're a beginner or experienced aquarist, these tips will help ensure your fish thrive in their new environment.

Research Fish Species: Before selecting pets fishes for your tank, research different species to determine compatibility, size, temperament, and care requirements. Consider factors such as tank size, water parameters, and social behaviors to create a harmonious aquatic community.

Choose the Right Tank: Select an appropriate tank size based on the needs of your chosen fish species. Larger tanks provide more stability and space for fish to swim and thrive. Ensure the tank has proper filtration, heating, and lighting to maintain a healthy aquatic environment.

Cycle the Tank: Before adding angelfish, cycle the tank to establish beneficial bacteria that break down waste and maintain water quality. Use a water testing kit to monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels during the cycling process. Cycling can take several weeks, so be patient and allow the tank to stabilize before adding fish.

Maintain Water Quality: Regular water changes are essential for maintaining optimal water quality and preventing ammonia and nitrite buildup. Test the water parameters regularly and perform partial water changes as needed to keep levels within acceptable ranges. Use a dechlorinate to remove chlorine and chloramines from tap water before adding it to the tank.

Provide Proper Nutrition: Feed your fish a balanced diet suited to their species and nutritional needs. Offer a variety of high-quality foods, including pellets, flakes, frozen, and live foods, to ensure they receive essential nutrients. Avoid overfeeding, as uneaten food can contribute to water pollution and health problems.

Monitor Fish Health: Watch for signs of illness or stress in your fish, such as changes in behavior, appetite, or appearance. Common health issues include ich, fin rot, and swim bladder disorders. Quarantine new fish before introducing them to the main tank to prevent the spread of disease.

Decorate the Tank: Enhance the visual appeal of your aquarium with decorative elements such as rocks, driftwood, plants, and substrate. Provide hiding places and natural habitats for fish to explore and seek refuge. Be mindful of the needs of your fish species when selecting tank décor.

Practice Regular Maintenance: Establish a routine maintenance schedule for cleaning the tank, replacing filter media, and pruning plants. Remove debris and uneaten food from the tank to prevent water quality issues. Keep equipment in good working order and address any issues promptly to ensure the health and well-being of your clown fish.

Conclusion:

With proper care and attention, pet fish can provide years of enjoyment and companionship. By following these tips for choosing and caring for your aquatic pets, you can create a thriving underwater ecosystem that brings beauty and serenity to your home.