#i mean i still have to fix the framing stuff in the intervening 50 some pages i've got so far but. i know what i'm doing now.

[bigcats-birds-and-books]

okay, so: i’ve been grumpy about How Slowly Revision Have Been Going (coming up on.....almost a Year......), because it’s felt like i’ve been trapped in The Beginning This Entire Time.

however: i’ve input most of what i’ve done so far, and it’s uh. 78 pages?? which. isn’t an insignificant chunk. and i’ve finally cracked what my major hangup was re: the slowness (in text, not in life although life hasn’t been a mystery for a while lol) and i’m slowly unfucking that, so. i think i’m feeling pretty good, all things considered??

[mysunfreckle]

I know you said you weren't going to write anymore of the crime boss au and you don't even need answer this but, in your opinion how do you think Enj and R ended up in a relationship? Personally I think that it was Enj seeing R and being like "I must ask him out" and then being a tiny bit weird (read: very weird) about it because he's bad at this sort of thing (And then there's me wondering how R found out about Enj being a criminal but I figured you like this kind of fluffy question more)

Of course I’mgoing to answer this, come on! (Are you the original requesting anon though? Ialways get so curious…) In any case. I adore questions like this, so have someramblings and a getting-together ficlet:

Enjoltaire, Fluffy Modern Crime AU, 400 w ramble + 1k ficlet

Grantaireis the only one of the Amis that didn’tgrow up in the neighbourhood they are protecting. He moves there looking for acheap place to live. He makes friends with j/b/m first and then Jehan andBahorel and Enjolras keeps hearing more and more about this funny artist personand he’s really not sure what he thinks of his friends hanging out with anoutsider so much. But then Bossuet introduces them and before Enj knows what isgoing on Grantaire has made him angry, made him laugh and made him blush, all in a space of ten minutes. Enjolras knowshe’s screwed before they’ve even finished their drinks.

Not that hedoes anything about it except vaguely try to be near R (you’re right, he’s badat this sort of thing). R thinks Enjolras’ attention is at least 50% disapproval,but he really likes Enjolras so all he does is being flippant and a bit flirty. Theirfriends all watch in fascination, but don’t intervene.

I am indeedall about the fluff and that means R would find out Enj is a criminal before they start dating. Les Amis havea certain reputation after all and it really isn’t too subtle that wheneverGrantaire tells any of them about the problems he sees around him, just on thestreet or affecting the people in his new building, they seem to magically disappear.When he finds out, he is not nearly as shocked as he could have been and toEnjolras surprise (and secret joy) almost his first reaction is that he wantsto join. (The whole group is delighted, because Grantaire makes a greataddition.) Naturally that means they spend more time together and that they seedifferent sides of each other, so they can get past their rather stupid way ofcommunicating a bit and actually become friends that understand each other.

They don’tget together until Grantaire’s car gets broken into and apart from some randomstuff he doesn’t care about, one of his folders with sketches goes missing. It’snot valuable, they must have just taken it because it was there and they werein a hurry. Grantaire is heartbroken, he tells everyone they’re ‘just sketches’and not to worry about it, but it feels like he’s lost a piece of his soul. Soof course the next night Enjolras shows up at his door:

 …

Grantairehad not expected Enjolras. Not at this hour. Jehan or Bahorel, yes, maybeBossuet, but not Enjolras.

“I know it’slate,” he says before Grantaire can even say a word. He sounds kind ofapologetic, but mostly just urgent. Whatever it is, it must be important.

“No, don’tworry about it,” Grantaire shakes his head. “Come in.”

Enjolrassteps inside and as soon as the door falls shut behind him he opens his bag andbegins to take something out. “Here,” he says tensely. “This is-”

“You’re shitting me!” Grantaire snatches the tatteredblack folder out of Enjolras’ hands. This is his. These are his stolensketches. He opens it with hands that are actually trembling. It really is his.Grantaire lets out a breath that he didn’t know had been holding sinceyesterday. He’s got his drawings back. All of them. “What the fuck Enjolras,” he says, looking up into Enjolras’ vaguely smilingface. “How the hell did you find it?”

Enjolrasclears his throat awkwardly, but his face is full of defiance. “I knew where tolook.”

Grantairedoes not believe that for a second. Cars get broken into by all sorts. Kids, loners andactual organized groups alike. There is no way Enjolras could have just knownwhere to go. Grantaire exhales again, closing the folder, but gripping it tightenough to make his knuckles go white.

“Are you…areyou glad?” Enjolras asks, suddenly sounding uncertain.

Glad?Grantaire looks up at him in incredulity. “Glad?” he echoes. “Enj, I couldfucking kiss you.”

The wordshave left his mouth before he can stop them, but who cares. It’s true. It’salways true, but at least under the current circumstances he can say it withoutweirding Enjolras out.

“Could orwould?”

Grantaireblinks. Enjolras is looking at him with an unfamiliar expression on his face.Maybe Grantaire weirded him out after all. “What?” he manages.

Enjolras isstanding very still and his eyes are fixed on Grantaire so decidedly that Grantairecan’t look away either. “Could you,” Enjolras says in a low voice. “Or would you? Kiss me, I mean.”

Grantairestares at him and he really wishes his mouth would check with his brain firstbefore it starts blabbering, because he hears himself say: “I could, but Iwouldn’t, because as romantic as showing up at my door late at night with thestolen pieces of my soul is, I think I can control myself.”

A slightlypuzzled look passes across Enjolras’s face and Grantaire doesn’t blame him. He doesn’t even know what that meant.Whatever it was though, he should have said it out loud.

Enjolras isstill looking at him, still standing very still and suddenly Grantaire gets thefeelings he’s not just standing still, he’s keeping himself that way. There’stension in his shoulders, there’s tension in his whole posture. Grantaire looksand says nothing. He’s still clutching the folder and he is genuinely unsurewhether he should move away from Enjolras or stay put. He’s unsure if he’s evencapable of moving away while he’s being looked at like that.

SuddenlyEnjolras drops his gaze. “I…I had to look at the drawings to know if there wereyours,” he says.

Grantaireclears his throat. “Don’t worry about it.” He’s not moving, even withoutEnjolras’ eyes on him. He’s kind of afraid that if he manages to move, it willbe towards Enjolras, because that’s really the only direction he wants to go.

“I know youdon’t like showing your sketches…” Enjolras says.

“Well, they’renot finished,” Grantaire answers, trying to talk through the tension in hischest. “And it’s not just sketches in there, it’s concepts, vague stuff forcollages and-”

“There weresketches of me,” Enjolras interrupts him and his eyes meet Grantaire’s again.

Grantaireshuts his mouth. The feeling sliding down his back should be dread, but it isn’t.Because Enjolras has that same unfamiliar expression on his face as before,except this time Grantaire recognizes it. He’s just never seen that look in Enjolras’ eyes. His heart jumps andGrantaire can feel heat rising to his cheeks. “Yeah…” he breathes. “I shouldhave asked I guess…”

“I don’tmind,” Enjolras says. His voice almost a whisper now, but he’s so close Grantairehas no trouble hearing him. When did he get so close? Grantaire can feel hisheart beating so fast he’s sure Enjolras must be able to hear it.

“I likethem,” Enjolras continues. “Your drawings, I mean, they’re beautiful. They allare. But I like the ones you did of me.”

Grantairenods silently. He’s not sure, of course he can’t be sure, but he really doesthink that Enjolras is looking at him like he-

“Maybe ifyou’d waited to ask me if you could draw me, you would have never done it?” Enjolrassays, eyes almost pleading.

“Maybe,”Grantaire swallows. Enjolras doesn’t have to ask. If he wants what Grantairethinks he does, he really doesn’t have to ask.

“There weremore of me,” Enjolras points out hesitantly. “…than of the others.”

“Yeah,”Grantaire says hoarsely and he really can’t think right now. Because Enjolras, whowalks around these streets like he belongs to them as much as they belong to him.Enjolras who never hesitates. Enjolras who is the leader of Les Amis and theprotector of this whole neighbourhood despite not wanting to admit to beingeither. That Enjolras, is slowlylifting a hand to Grantaire’s face.

That is probablywhen Grantaire’s brain cuts out completely, because there seems to be notransition between that moment and the moment when he’s got his fingers curledaround the front of Enjolras’ shirt and is being pressed back against the wall,Enjolras kissing him breathless. The folder with sketches is somewhere on the floor now and Grantaire doesn’t care. He tries to pull Enjolras even closer, despitethat being pretty much impossible and doesn’t let go until they both have tobreak apart to breathe. Enjolras takes a single gulp of air before frantically pressing hislips against Grantaire’s again and muttering something unintelligible.

“What?”Grantaire asks, muffled and Enjolras pulls back a little, panting.

His handsare still in Grantaire’s hair and his own hair is rapidly turning into a wildhalo of tussled curls, perfectly framing his face. “Will you go out with me?”he pants. “Please?”

Grantaire’s face breaks out in a grin. Please. “Yes,” he sayswarmly and fire dances in his chest as he sees the spark of joy on Enjolras’face. “But to be honest, I’d rather stay here.”

Enjolraslaughs and he sounds so happy that Grantaire is almost sorry that he stopslaughing to kiss him again. Almost.

[trendingnewsb]

The Ghan expedition exploring Australia’s great ‘in-between’

From Darwin, through Katherine, Alice Springs, Coober Pedy and finally to Adelaide, the train journey offers travellers something different each day

In the boundless island continent of Australia, too often visitors and citizens fly right over the top and out of the country rather than seeing whats in the middle. Because of the vast distances of unpopulated areas, Australians and the eight million tourists who visit each year mainly travel the country by aeroplane. We hop from capital city to tourist destination only looking out plane windows to view the barren land beneath. But theres something to be said for seeing the in-between.

Thats what makes the Ghan Expedition so special. The 2,979km train journey allows its guests to see Australia unadorned. The Ghan Expedition is a three-night, four-day journey, starting in Darwin and stopping in Katherine, Alice Springs and Coober Pedy, before arriving in Adelaide. At every stop, a number of off-board excursions are offered to passengers. Most are included in the cost of the ticket, while some such as scenic flights and helicopter rides are optional extras.

There are two classes on The Ghan, gold and platinum. Gold class includes two single bunks and an ensuite bathroom with a picture window out one side of the train. Platinum class features a double bed and window views out of both sides of the carriage. I travelled in gold class and was impressed by the high level of comfort of the cabin. Space is tight but neatly used. The bed linen is hotel quality. It is folded back and chocolates are left on your pillow each night.

The Ghan is a slick operation. Operator Great Southern Rail, the same company that runs the Indian Pacific Railway, has learned how to make its passengers feel special. Nice little touches such as the Appelles Apothecary toiletry range, made from Australian native ingredients and sourced sustainably round out an excellent menu, great logistics and a clever offering of excursions to make this trip value for money.

Its not cheap (the gold class twin cabin costs $3,299 per person) but if you dont have a lot of time, its a good way to see the centre of Australia and get a taste of Indigenous culture. Its an amuse-bouche, but a splendid one.

People of all ages, classes, backgrounds and nationalities hop aboard this train. Most passengers are retirees, but younger couples are attracted by the increasing number of active off-train excursions, and the impressive food and wine menu. I met couples from Austria, UK and US, and many Australians. I met one couple celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary and another celebrating a 40th birthday.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park remind you of your small place in the world. Photograph: Jonny Weeks for the Guardian

Brits Reg and Val Snell were on their 14th trip to Australia when I met them onboard. Each trip we try to do something different, Val told me. While Reg and Val had already been to Uluru and Alice Springs, the numerous excursions available meant they were able to see new sights at every stop.

Onboard the train, guests immediately gravitate to their closest lounge car. No sooner had we had a coffee, followed by a sparkling wine, than we were beckoned off to the Queen Adelaide Restaurant one of nine restaurant carriages on the Ghan for lunch. The restaurant is the stuff of romance novels: smart four-seater booths are set with starched white linen and separated with cut-glass frames. Each booth has a full picture window: this is dining with a view unlike any other.

I chose the buffalo curry for my lunch, which had a lovely depth of flavour with a punch of spice but not too hot. In retrospect, the tomato, sweet potato and beetroot tart would have been a lighter, smarter option given we were about to get off into the searing afternoon heat for a trip to the Nitmiluk Gorge. And again, the ice-cream selection would probably have been a better option for dessert, but how could I resist the mango and lemon myrtle cheesecake?

In Katherine, our first stop, I chose the gorge cruise as my excursion. There was also an option for a cruise to see ancient Indigenous rock art, a visit to a cattle station for those who had seen the gorge before, or a helicopter or fixed-wing plane flight over the gorge.

Nitmiluk Gorge (also known as Katherine Gorge) is a natural wonder. Nitmiluk means cicada country in the local Jawoyn Indigenous language and my memory of the trip will forever be set to the soundtrack of cicadas. The gorge was formed by an earthquake, but the Jawoyn story of Bulan, the rainbow serpent, carving a path through the rock is much more interesting.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of the gorge are extraordinary, and their orange, yellow and brown reflections on the crisp, still water remind you of your small place in the world as you cruise down the canyon between them. While flying around Uluru on day two was obviously both huge (the largest monolith in the world) and hugely impressive, the gorge cruise was my favourite off-board excursion of the trip. Maybe it has something to do with expectations, but I found the calm cruise between the imposing cliffs, along with the stories of the Jawoyn people, most enjoyable and eye-opening.

The food, wine and top-class service make the Ghan an unforgettable travel experience. Photograph: Ian Routledge/The Ghan

Then an evening surprise turned out to be the highlight of day two. We were promised an outback barbecue under the stars at Telegraph Station in Alice Springs, where you spend most of day two. Feeling tired after the flight to Uluru, and a rather abbreviated tour and lunch at the base, I was not exactly excited about a late night spent outdoors.

But after I had a hot shower (the ensuite showers have great pressure and a plentiful supply of hot water) had washed away all the red dirt that had stuck to me at Uluru, we caught a bus to Telegraph Station and I was greeted with sparkling wine and some delightful canapes, including pork belly, cured kangaroo with bush-spiced apple chutney and a lemon myrtle-infused house-smoked salmon fillet served under a majestic blue gum tree. Tired? Not me.

After a camel ride, a look around the station and more sparkling wine, the sumptuous barbecued thousand guineas tenderloin was served with jacket potato, garden salad and roast vegetables. The St Hallett Garden of Eden shiraz was the ideal match for this quintessential Aussie barbie. And just as it became dark enough to appreciate the blanket of stars we were bathed in, came the surprise an astronomy show.

Later, a band appeared and young and old joined on the dance floor. The band played so many encores that eventually train staff had to intervene to force the dancers back on to the bus so the train could depart on time. So much for an early night. Back on the train, we danced in the lounge car as the drinks continued to be poured.

Kathy Lawrence, who was on the Ghan with her husband to celebrate his 40th birthday, told me that the evening was one of the highlights of the three-week trip that had taken them to Darwin, Uluru, the Tiwi Islands and the Cobourg Peninsula. The astronomer and the live music made it a really good night, she said.

Day three took us to Coober Pedy, an outback town as famous for its underground homes as its opal mines. Coober Pedy is something you should see once, but once will probably do. Its a harsh town, hot and dry, and bleeding stories of fortunes won and lost. People come here to hide, a staff member told me, and it was not hard to believe. No one would come looking here even the wind turbine looked sad.

All the passengers I spoke to were fascinated by the place, though. The temperate underground homes and churches are unique, and the opals exquisite there was plenty of shopping going on. A Greek lunch of marinated octopus, souvlaki and salad in an underground mine was lovely, but the highlight of the day was a drive out to the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park to watch the sun set over the glorious, multicoloured hills and surrounding desert, washed down with a sparkling wine, of course. (No more alcohol, I heard one passenger groan but with all food and alcohol included in the ticket price, there was not much complaining.)

The high level of comfort of the cabin is impressive, and although the space is tight, its neatly used. Photograph: Heather Dinas Photography/The Ghan

Back at the train, we had some time before we had to board once more, which granted me the luxury of checking out the engines. With 295 guests onboard and 50 staff, the Ghan has two locomotives with diesel electric engines that weigh 132 tonnes each and have 4,400 horsepower. On the flat track of the Ghan, the second locomotive is only for backup, while on the Indian Pacific, it is used to help get up hills. At 1,800m long, it is as long as a train gets, Kingsley Schupelius, one of the drivers, tells me. With the beautiful scenery, he loves the job, which is fortunate because hes been doing it for 36 years. But even that level of experience cant stop you from hitting the odd animal.

You see a lot of wildlife, he tells me. Its mainly kangaroos and camels that get hit, which seems a shame since the trip is named after the cameleers who came to Australia with their camels from 1839 to help carry goods for explorers venturing inland. (The cameleers were believed to be from Afghanistan and nicknamed Ghans by the locals, although they hailed from all over central and middle-eastern Asia.) You know, night-time, you flash your lights, blow your horn, but you cant [miss], Kingsley says. Its dark and there are bushes around.

At almost 2km in length, the Ghan heads north across Northern Territory. Photograph: Tim Wimborne/Reuters

Theres a sombre mood in the lounge car that night, and not only because Ive re-told the drivers story of kangaroos and camels getting stuck underneath the train. Weve become a little pack, those of us who share dinner time and end up back in the lounge afterwards. Some people Ive been on several excursions with. Weve seen so much, weve explored the red centre and gazed at the stars, weve danced and sung and watched awe-struck this beautiful country, which no longer feels so barren. It will be hard to say goodbye the next day, but the memories of the in-between will last a lifetime.

Gabrielle Jackson travelled as a guest of Great Southern Rail.

2017/18 Ghan Expedition prices are:

Platinum Service: $5,239pp Gold Twin Service: $3,499 pp Gold Single Service: $3,139pp

All food, drink and most excursions are included. Advance purchase discounts available for bookings made six months in advance.

The 2017 Ghan Expedition season runs from 3 May to 25 October 2017. All southbound journeys are four-day/three-night Ghan Expedition journeys. All northbound services year-round are standard Ghan journeys, which are three days/two nights. Outside of Expedition season, the southbound services also operate on the standard three-day/two-night itinerary. The Ghan departs Adelaide every Sunday and Darwin every Wednesday.

Read more: http://ift.tt/2p5TPzp

from Viral News HQ http://ift.tt/2nQyFoC via Viral News HQ

[trendingnewsb]

The Ghan expedition exploring Australia’s great ‘in-between’

From Darwin, through Katherine, Alice Springs, Coober Pedy and finally to Adelaide, the train journey offers travellers something different each day

In the boundless island continent of Australia, too often visitors and citizens fly right over the top and out of the country rather than seeing whats in the middle. Because of the vast distances of unpopulated areas, Australians and the eight million tourists who visit each year mainly travel the country by aeroplane. We hop from capital city to tourist destination only looking out plane windows to view the barren land beneath. But theres something to be said for seeing the in-between.

Thats what makes the Ghan Expedition so special. The 2,979km train journey allows its guests to see Australia unadorned. The Ghan Expedition is a three-night, four-day journey, starting in Darwin and stopping in Katherine, Alice Springs and Coober Pedy, before arriving in Adelaide. At every stop, a number of off-board excursions are offered to passengers. Most are included in the cost of the ticket, while some such as scenic flights and helicopter rides are optional extras.

There are two classes on The Ghan, gold and platinum. Gold class includes two single bunks and an ensuite bathroom with a picture window out one side of the train. Platinum class features a double bed and window views out of both sides of the carriage. I travelled in gold class and was impressed by the high level of comfort of the cabin. Space is tight but neatly used. The bed linen is hotel quality. It is folded back and chocolates are left on your pillow each night.

The Ghan is a slick operation. Operator Great Southern Rail, the same company that runs the Indian Pacific Railway, has learned how to make its passengers feel special. Nice little touches such as the Appelles Apothecary toiletry range, made from Australian native ingredients and sourced sustainably round out an excellent menu, great logistics and a clever offering of excursions to make this trip value for money.

Its not cheap (the gold class twin cabin costs $3,299 per person) but if you dont have a lot of time, its a good way to see the centre of Australia and get a taste of Indigenous culture. Its an amuse-bouche, but a splendid one.

People of all ages, classes, backgrounds and nationalities hop aboard this train. Most passengers are retirees, but younger couples are attracted by the increasing number of active off-train excursions, and the impressive food and wine menu. I met couples from Austria, UK and US, and many Australians. I met one couple celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary and another celebrating a 40th birthday.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park remind you of your small place in the world. Photograph: Jonny Weeks for the Guardian

Brits Reg and Val Snell were on their 14th trip to Australia when I met them onboard. Each trip we try to do something different, Val told me. While Reg and Val had already been to Uluru and Alice Springs, the numerous excursions available meant they were able to see new sights at every stop.

Onboard the train, guests immediately gravitate to their closest lounge car. No sooner had we had a coffee, followed by a sparkling wine, than we were beckoned off to the Queen Adelaide Restaurant one of nine restaurant carriages on the Ghan for lunch. The restaurant is the stuff of romance novels: smart four-seater booths are set with starched white linen and separated with cut-glass frames. Each booth has a full picture window: this is dining with a view unlike any other.

I chose the buffalo curry for my lunch, which had a lovely depth of flavour with a punch of spice but not too hot. In retrospect, the tomato, sweet potato and beetroot tart would have been a lighter, smarter option given we were about to get off into the searing afternoon heat for a trip to the Nitmiluk Gorge. And again, the ice-cream selection would probably have been a better option for dessert, but how could I resist the mango and lemon myrtle cheesecake?

In Katherine, our first stop, I chose the gorge cruise as my excursion. There was also an option for a cruise to see ancient Indigenous rock art, a visit to a cattle station for those who had seen the gorge before, or a helicopter or fixed-wing plane flight over the gorge.

Nitmiluk Gorge (also known as Katherine Gorge) is a natural wonder. Nitmiluk means cicada country in the local Jawoyn Indigenous language and my memory of the trip will forever be set to the soundtrack of cicadas. The gorge was formed by an earthquake, but the Jawoyn story of Bulan, the rainbow serpent, carving a path through the rock is much more interesting.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of the gorge are extraordinary, and their orange, yellow and brown reflections on the crisp, still water remind you of your small place in the world as you cruise down the canyon between them. While flying around Uluru on day two was obviously both huge (the largest monolith in the world) and hugely impressive, the gorge cruise was my favourite off-board excursion of the trip. Maybe it has something to do with expectations, but I found the calm cruise between the imposing cliffs, along with the stories of the Jawoyn people, most enjoyable and eye-opening.

The food, wine and top-class service make the Ghan an unforgettable travel experience. Photograph: Ian Routledge/The Ghan

Then an evening surprise turned out to be the highlight of day two. We were promised an outback barbecue under the stars at Telegraph Station in Alice Springs, where you spend most of day two. Feeling tired after the flight to Uluru, and a rather abbreviated tour and lunch at the base, I was not exactly excited about a late night spent outdoors.

But after I had a hot shower (the ensuite showers have great pressure and a plentiful supply of hot water) had washed away all the red dirt that had stuck to me at Uluru, we caught a bus to Telegraph Station and I was greeted with sparkling wine and some delightful canapes, including pork belly, cured kangaroo with bush-spiced apple chutney and a lemon myrtle-infused house-smoked salmon fillet served under a majestic blue gum tree. Tired? Not me.

After a camel ride, a look around the station and more sparkling wine, the sumptuous barbecued thousand guineas tenderloin was served with jacket potato, garden salad and roast vegetables. The St Hallett Garden of Eden shiraz was the ideal match for this quintessential Aussie barbie. And just as it became dark enough to appreciate the blanket of stars we were bathed in, came the surprise an astronomy show.

Later, a band appeared and young and old joined on the dance floor. The band played so many encores that eventually train staff had to intervene to force the dancers back on to the bus so the train could depart on time. So much for an early night. Back on the train, we danced in the lounge car as the drinks continued to be poured.

Kathy Lawrence, who was on the Ghan with her husband to celebrate his 40th birthday, told me that the evening was one of the highlights of the three-week trip that had taken them to Darwin, Uluru, the Tiwi Islands and the Cobourg Peninsula. The astronomer and the live music made it a really good night, she said.

Day three took us to Coober Pedy, an outback town as famous for its underground homes as its opal mines. Coober Pedy is something you should see once, but once will probably do. Its a harsh town, hot and dry, and bleeding stories of fortunes won and lost. People come here to hide, a staff member told me, and it was not hard to believe. No one would come looking here even the wind turbine looked sad.

All the passengers I spoke to were fascinated by the place, though. The temperate underground homes and churches are unique, and the opals exquisite there was plenty of shopping going on. A Greek lunch of marinated octopus, souvlaki and salad in an underground mine was lovely, but the highlight of the day was a drive out to the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park to watch the sun set over the glorious, multicoloured hills and surrounding desert, washed down with a sparkling wine, of course. (No more alcohol, I heard one passenger groan but with all food and alcohol included in the ticket price, there was not much complaining.)

The high level of comfort of the cabin is impressive, and although the space is tight, its neatly used. Photograph: Heather Dinas Photography/The Ghan

Back at the train, we had some time before we had to board once more, which granted me the luxury of checking out the engines. With 295 guests onboard and 50 staff, the Ghan has two locomotives with diesel electric engines that weigh 132 tonnes each and have 4,400 horsepower. On the flat track of the Ghan, the second locomotive is only for backup, while on the Indian Pacific, it is used to help get up hills. At 1,800m long, it is as long as a train gets, Kingsley Schupelius, one of the drivers, tells me. With the beautiful scenery, he loves the job, which is fortunate because hes been doing it for 36 years. But even that level of experience cant stop you from hitting the odd animal.

You see a lot of wildlife, he tells me. Its mainly kangaroos and camels that get hit, which seems a shame since the trip is named after the cameleers who came to Australia with their camels from 1839 to help carry goods for explorers venturing inland. (The cameleers were believed to be from Afghanistan and nicknamed Ghans by the locals, although they hailed from all over central and middle-eastern Asia.) You know, night-time, you flash your lights, blow your horn, but you cant [miss], Kingsley says. Its dark and there are bushes around.

At almost 2km in length, the Ghan heads north across Northern Territory. Photograph: Tim Wimborne/Reuters

Theres a sombre mood in the lounge car that night, and not only because Ive re-told the drivers story of kangaroos and camels getting stuck underneath the train. Weve become a little pack, those of us who share dinner time and end up back in the lounge afterwards. Some people Ive been on several excursions with. Weve seen so much, weve explored the red centre and gazed at the stars, weve danced and sung and watched awe-struck this beautiful country, which no longer feels so barren. It will be hard to say goodbye the next day, but the memories of the in-between will last a lifetime.

Gabrielle Jackson travelled as a guest of Great Southern Rail.

2017/18 Ghan Expedition prices are:

Platinum Service: $5,239pp Gold Twin Service: $3,499 pp Gold Single Service: $3,139pp

All food, drink and most excursions are included. Advance purchase discounts available for bookings made six months in advance.

The 2017 Ghan Expedition season runs from 3 May to 25 October 2017. All southbound journeys are four-day/three-night Ghan Expedition journeys. All northbound services year-round are standard Ghan journeys, which are three days/two nights. Outside of Expedition season, the southbound services also operate on the standard three-day/two-night itinerary. The Ghan departs Adelaide every Sunday and Darwin every Wednesday.

Read more: http://ift.tt/2p5TPzp

from Viral News HQ http://ift.tt/2nQyFoC via Viral News HQ