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lovesosweeet · 1 year

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better left unsaid // cth

chapter two

in which orion has leukemia, and calum doesn’t know.

chapter zero, one

july 13, 2018

los angeles, california

calum

When we wrap up our final rehearsal for the week, the boys and I are both hyped for tour and drained from the whole thing before it’s even started. We’re all sweaty and eager to go home, yet we can’t manage to actually say goodbye to each other in the parking lot at our rehearsal facility.

It’s funny, seven years of spending practically every minute with these guys and I still find myself wanting to spend more time with them. I guess that’s family.

“What’s on the agenda for you and O tonight, Cal?” Ashton asks and leans against his car. He’s probably the sweatiest out of all of us, but to be honest, we’re all drenched.

I can’t help but smile when I think of her. “She’s been feeling kinda sick lately, so I was just gonna grab some ramen from that place near our apartment and we’ll just take an easy night in.”

“Ah, right before tour? Better not catch whatever she’s got,” Mike quips. “Maybe you should quarantine from each other.”

I roll my eyes. “I’m not quarantining from my girlfriend two weeks before I leave her for four months, especially not when she feels like shit.”

Mike mouths “whipped” to me before Luke intervenes. I pretend to whack Mike over the head and ruffle his hair. I know he’s just kidding, but he’s not wrong, so I wouldn’t actually care if he wasn’t.

“Alright, alright, cut it out you two. I’m calling it—let’s all go home now. See you on Monday morning.” Luke doesn’t wait for any of us to reply before he gets into his car and slams the door behind himself.

The rest of us laugh at his quick departure from the conversation but also take it as the end for us all. Mike and Ash give me a sweaty half hug before we’re all clambering into our own cars, mine the shittiest by far. This tank goes through gas at a rate that may honestly be illegal in California, but it’s my car and I love it. Besides, it runs. I get from point A to point B—what else do I need?

Orion. Ramen. That’s what I need.

The journey back to the heart of LA, including the pit stop at O’s favorite vegan ramen shop, takes me about an hour and a half. Actually, I guess it’s her second favorite. There was one in Madrid that she went to all the time that had a Winnie the Pooh sign, so naturally it became her favorite. That one was also far cheaper than any of the options in LA.

I park my shitty Jeep in the parking garage, next to her less shitty but equally beat up Honda Civic. The girl hits curbs and “bonks” other cars as she parallel parks all the time. Naturally that’s taken a toll on her car.

I swipe my fob to enter the building and nod to the security officer in the lobby.

If it weren’t for Orion going to UCLA, I probably wouldn’t live in such a central location, for safety reasons. When we decided to move in together, I didn’t want her to have to drive over an hour stuck in traffic to go to campus every day. Going from living on campus and being able to run to class 5 minutes before it starts is a big shift from living in an apartment, so I wanted it to be as easy as possible for her.

Thus, we live in a super secure building in Santa Monica with 24/7 onsite officers and fob entry for the parking garage and the building.

I take the elevator up to our floor and feel myself start to get giddy at the excitement of coming home to her. It’s so silly—we live together, have been together for two years, and yet I still get nervous to see her.

When I open the door to the apartment, Duke is waiting for me and I hear the sounds of a show playing on the TV in the living room.

“I come bearing gifts,” I call out and set our food on the entryway table while I kick off my shoes.

I’m met with silence.

“O, where are you?”

More silence.

I start walking through our home, looking for signs of life, but end up finding her curled up in a massive blanket on the couch, sleeping. She’s not wearing any makeup and her hair is dirty, pulled into a messy knot on top of her head. She looks adorable, but she must still feel kind of sick. She had gone to the doctor today since she keeps getting these bugs, constantly having a fever and feeling sick, then feeling better, but then the sickness comes back a few weeks later.

I carefully crawl onto the couch and gently lift her legs to lay across my lap, trying not to wake her up, but just wanting to be closer to her. My efforts are fruitless and she stirs, her eyes cracking open sleepily. When she sees me, she smiles.

“Hi,” she says quietly. “How was rehearsal?”

My shoulders rise and fall in a shrug. “Same old. How’re you feeling? Did the doctor have anything helpful?”

She sighs and shakes her head. “Not really, they took some blood samples and stuff to send off to a lab. They think it’s just a bug, maybe a weakened immune system for whatever reason—they said the blood test could help indicate a bunch of different things.”

I frown. She’s been feeling kinda crappy every few weeks for months now. “I’m sorry they don’t have an answer yet. I brought you ramen.”

And just like that, there’s life in her face and light in her eyes while she beams at me. “You’re the best ever.”

Orion sits up and scoots closer to me and lazily drapes her arms over my shoulders. Her brown eyes gaze into mine and she gives me a quick kiss, pulling away too soon for my liking.

“Just one? I brought you noodles!”

She giggles — my favorite sound — and then she’s kissing me again, her lips smooth and soft with her favorite lip balm. It’s birthday cake flavored and she’s gifted me a few tubes whenever she makes me random gift baskets. I’ve gotten shit from the guys for it since it has glitter in it, but who wouldn’t want to think of their girl every time they put on a layer of lip balm?

“Thank you for bringing me noodles.”

“Anything for you,” I say, giving her another kiss. She beams her bright smile at me and then rests her forehead on my shoulder while pulling me into a hug. “Want to eat and then we can take a shower?”

“That may be the best idea you’ve ever had,” Orion says, pulling me even closer to her than I already am, trying to get rid of any space there is between us.

—

A few hours later, we’re back on the couch, the sunset shining into our place through the windows, casting a warm glow over the entire space. We’re all tangled up in a mess of limbs and blanket and pillows; Orion is playing some silly game on her phone and I’m half paying attention to an episode of Brooklyn 99 on the TV. I know I have two more weeks here, but I can’t help but dread the thought of leaving Orion for months at a time. With her classes and our minimal breaks on this tour, we probably won’t get to see each other at all until after the tour is over.

We started out long distance, sort of, since we weren’t in the same place the whole time but saw each other frequently, but we haven’t been touring since the Sounds Live, Feels Live Tour ended a year and a half ago, so we haven’t really had to deal with being apart. I’m not worried about going long distance—Orion and I are stronger and happier than ever. I’m really just going to miss her… so much.

I’m thankful that tour is so crazy busy usually, so the time apart should fly by, and we’ll be having a great time playing shows every night and exploring different cities and meeting all the fans. I just wish O could come with us, but I’d never ask her to take a semester off. Her education is so important to her and I admire her for it, but I do almost want her to try a semester off now. Once she’s done with undergrad and is in law school, she definitely won’t be able to visit on tour, but that’s a problem for future us, I suppose.

They say distance makes the heart grow fonder, but mine is already growing fonder from a mere few inches away. I don’t need more distance.

“What are you thinking about?” Orion’s soft voice interrupts my thoughts.

“No thoughts,” I say, tracing circles on her back. “Head empty.”

She chuckles, but I feel her gaze boring into my face, studying me. “Don’t lie. I know you zoned out.”

I swear sometimes she knows me better than I know myself. Every gift she buys me is completely her own idea—she’s never once asked for ideas or guidance and it’s always something I didn’t know existed but I needed or something I simply needed or wanted. She remembers everything I’ve ever liked at every restaurant we have been to and she knows every word to our songs, which I can’t even say I do. She can tell when I’m drained from being around people and will offer for us to leave before I’ve even had a chance to realize I’m ready to go.

Seen. Known. Loved. I’ve never felt more love from anyone than I have felt from Orion.

“Nothing, really, just being sad about leaving you for a few months,” I reply. When I look down at her, she’s pouting at me with sad eyes.

“Stop being sappy,” she goes. She then rolls her eyes. “It’s not gonna be fun at all to tour the world with your best friends and perform music you wrote to thousands of adoring fans and fulfill your lifelong dream.”

This time I roll my eyes. “Of course it’ll be fun, but that doesn’t mean I can’t miss you at the same time!”

“Even if you were here, I’ll be so wrapped up in LSAT prep and law school apps and classes, you wouldn’t get to spend much time with me anyway.” I know she’d be busy, but we’d be in the same space, sharing the same air, sleeping in the same bed. She’s right though, just the amount of LSAT prep she’s been doing with some of the other kids on the pre-law track over the summer took up an insane amount of her time.

Oh, Orion. Even though she lives her life through emotion and feeling, she still somehow can be logical and rational when it counts, almost to a fault.

“I’m still gonna miss you, so, so much,” I clarify. We lock eyes, and I know that we both know that it’ll be a bittersweet few months apart.

“You won’t miss me. I’ll be just as annoying as I am normally, just from a distance. I can promise you that!”

I crack a smile. “Oh yeah, you’re so annoying. Leaving your contacts on the side of the sink and using the espresso machine at ungodly early hours of the day. Always texting me to bring you a snack between classes. Giving Duke a kiss before me when you get home. Honestly, I can’t stand you.”

She scoffs and lightly taps her hand against my face in a mock slap. “Wow, so you’re leaving me and insulting me all in the same breath? Hit me while I’m down, why don’t you?”

“Hey, you called yourself annoying. I’m just supporting you here.”

“Fine, I’ll stop bringing you coffee in bed then.”

“Wait, no, no, no, I take it all back, please use the espresso machine while I’m still asleep.”

Orion looks at me with her big brown eyes, so round and gleaming with light, staring at me with pure adoration. “I’m gonna miss you.”

I gasp. “I thought you just said that won’t be happening!”

“Oh my god, just stop talking and kiss me!” She laughs and flips over so our chests are pressed together and I can pull her even closer.

read chapter three

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a/n: hi hi. idk what i’m doing here getting back into writing is hard :’) happy friday folks

#5sos #5 seconds of summer #luke hemmings #calum hood #ashton irwin #fanfiction #fanfic #5sos fanfic #calum imagine #5sos fanfiction #calum x reader #boyfriend!calum #calum #better left unsaid

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udo0stories · 5 months

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You will be enthralled by Buenos Aires from the moment you arrive. This expansive capital city of South America is so colorful and opulent that it almost looks like Paris, I thought. or Madrid, or Mexico City. But wait until you see Buenos Aires' abundance of interesting activities. You are going to love the amazing food, amazing culture, and exceptional value! Tango performances aside, there are other reasons to visit Buenos Aires: the city's top-notch art museums, amazing live music, and art and culture in general. It is a culinary destination as well; steak is the specialty, of course, but there are also alfajores, empanadas, and a thriving international food scene. Furthermore, Buenos Aires is a fun city with lots of interesting and quirky bars, late-night dance clubs, and exciting live events. Buenos Aires is among the best-value major cities in the world due to its abundance of affordable options and surprisingly low prices. I went to Buenos Aires for the first time on my own when I was twenty-four years old, and I recently went back for a longer visit over fifteen years later. Has the city undergone changes? Has it ever happened? I have also changed. I cannot wait to tell you about the top activities in Buenos Aires. Come with me as we examine! Contributors to this post include Dale Peterson and Adventurous Kate. It was published in March of 2024. Buenos Aires is so much more than this picture suggests! through Shutterstock. Activities in Buenos Aires Examine Buenos Aires's Various Neighborhoods Discovering each of the many neighborhoods in Buenos Aires is one of my favorite things to do while visiting the city. You could visit every neighborhood in Buenos Aires for months and still not see them all. One of the best ways to explore lots of neighborhoods is to take the hop-on, hop-off bus tour. From above, you will be able to see all the best locations in the city and have a comprehensive overview of everything. However, if you’re short on time, this private walking tour takes you to several of the city’s best neighborhoods in one day. These are the top neighborhoods in Buenos Aires that I suggest you prioritize if you have more time to spend there: Palermo Palermo is a trendy, upscale neighborhood with some of the best restaurants, bars, and clubs in the city. It’s actually a huge neighborhood divided into sub-neighborhoods (including Palermo Chico, Palermo Soho, and Palermo Hollywood.) If you’re familiar with the neighborhoods of Mexico City, you’ll understand what I mean when I say that Palermo reminds me a lot of Roma Norte and La Condesa. In New York, Palermo would be a massive East Village. Palermo is home to many of my favorite restaurants in Buenos Aires, including Sacro (vegan), Don Julio (steakhouse), Mishiguene (Jewish Argentine cuisine), and La Carnicería (Argentine meat). In Palermo Soho, you’ll find many of the coolest spots in the city concentrated around the lively Plaza Serrano. In Palermo Chico, the oldest part of the neighborhood, you can explore some of the city’s best museums, like the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA). To learn more about Palermo, check out this graffiti and street art walking tour. Accompanied by a local guide, you’ll learn about Palermo’s history and the political origins of its street art. Keep an eye out for Conan O’Brien’s mural with Lionel Messi and Pope Francis—it cracked me up! El Caminito in La Boca, via Erwin Widmer on Shutterstock. The Boca Historically, one of Buenos Aires' most diverse neighborhoods has been this vibrant, working-class area. When immigrants came to Argentina in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, La Boca was the main port of entry, much like New York City was for them entering the United States. La Boca's most well-known location is El Caminito, a vibrant street dotted with old conventillos, or boarding houses. This street is featured in any photo you may have seen of La Boca. Benito Quinquela Martín, a local artist, spearheaded the neighborhood's revitalization beginning in the 1950s.

To truly understand La Boca's history, I highly suggest taking a guided tour of the area. An excellent method to thoroughly explore La Boca is with this guided walking tour. Remember that pickpocketing and minor crimes make La Boca one of the neighborhoods in Buenos Aires where you should be even more cautious. The most elegant street in Recoleta is Avenida Alvear. via Shutterstock user AlexCorv. Recupe y Retiro Strolling around Recoleta and Retiro, you could honestly wonder if you were in Paris or Latin America. Several of the buildings in these posh neighborhoods are reminiscent of the Haussmannian architecture of Paris and are home to upscale stores and hotels. The Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the most distinctive and exquisite cemeteries on earth and, in my opinion, a must-see attraction in Buenos Aires, is located in Recoleta. The enormous clock tower known as the Torre Monumental honors Argentina's independence and is located in Retiro. The nearby park is a well-liked gathering spot for the community. Buenos Aires' San Telmo is a bohemian neighborhood! The San Telmo Another European-style neighborhood that, in my opinion, could just as easily be placed in Madrid or Rome is San Telmo. The outdoor Feria de San Telmo market is held on Sundays, which makes this artsy, bohemian neighborhood very popular. Weekends are a great time to watch at the bustling Plaza Dorrego, which is a popular place for street tango. Because there are so many exciting late-night bars in San Telmo, it is also the ideal location for going out late. But San Telmo is another neighborhood to be on your guard because of an increased number of small-time crimes, such as pickpocketing at the bustling market. Puerto Madero skyscrapers, sourced from Shutterstock. Madero Puerto Situated near Buenos Aires' main port, Puerto Madero is a chic and contemporary neighborhood that makes for a pleasant stroll. It is the newest area of the city, full of gleaming skyscrapers, and it is close to San Nicolas, home to many of Buenos Aires' most significant landmarks. For a really unique experience, you can enjoy a sunset cruise with an open bar in Puerto Madero. For an hour, as the sun sets over the water, you will sail down the Rio de la Plata and enjoy views of the city. The US has the White House; Argentina has the Casa Rosada! See the Most Important Sites in San Nicolas, Buenos Aires You can spend an afternoon touring the many significant landmarks in San Nicolas, a historic neighborhood. The Casa Rosada, also known as the Pink House, is the most well-known. It serves as the president of Argentina's official office. It is situated on the large Plaza de Mayo, which also houses the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral and other significant buildings. The Obelisco, a colossal monument honoring Buenos Aires' founding, and the Avenida 9 de Julio, one of the world's broadest avenues, are also located in San Nicolas. These are Buenos Aires' main attractions! One of the most important things to do in Buenos Aires is to see a tango show! via Shutterstock via Gary Yim. Explore Buenos Aires' Tango scene. Tango is an experience that should not be missed while visiting Buenos Aires. The tango is the national dance of Argentina and a mainstay of Buenos Aires culture. There are numerous ways to enjoy tango in the city. Attending a tango performance is the first step. These events primarily serve tourists and are held in stunning historic locations throughout Buenos Aires. La Ventana is a popular tango show, or you can catch a performance at Teatro Astor Piazzolla. Going to a milonga is an additional option. The locals go out to dance for fun on these tango evenings. To learn about upcoming milongas, check local forums or ask around, as they are not very publicly announced in English. I attended one once, and I had some of my best people-watching experiences ever. Tango performances are also available in real time on the streets of Buenos Aires. The Sunday market in San Telmo and the El Caminito neighborhood of La Boca are two of the best places to do this.

Although it is free to watch street tango, do not forget to tip the dancers! At last, you can become a proficient tango dancer! Take a private tango lesson to learn the basic steps of the tango from a pro. Visiting Recoleta Cemetery is one of the best things to do in Buenos Aires. Go to Recoleta Cemetery. Even if you are not usually into cemeteries, I highly suggest visiting Recoleta Cemetery, as it is one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. This city of the dead, with its rows of massive stone mausoleums, is well worth a visit. Numerous well-known Argentines are buried there, notably Eva Peron (her grave is easy to miss!). Taking a guided walking tour is highly recommended to get the most out of the cemetery. You will discover more about the past of the graveyard and the individuals interred there. The cost of the walking tour is $10 USD, and cemetery admission is also an additional expense. Due to the unstable Argentinean currency, the admission fee varies, but it is approximately $7 USD and can only be paid with a credit card. Because this is a well-known tourist destination, you should be on the lookout for pickpockets. You can bet that when I got back, I kept a close eye on my bag because I had actually been pickpocketed near the cemetery back in 2008. The Ateneo Grand Splendid was amazing! What a memorable encounter! See the Grand Splendid, El Ateneo El Ateneo Grand Splendid is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. This 1919 theater, converted into a magnificent bookstore, is a sight to behold on Instagram. Bibliophiles should not miss this magnificent bookstore, which features multi-tiered balconies, frescoed ceilings, and exquisite original details. I was overjoyed beyond measure! The books are mostly in Spanish, with a tiny amount in English. In addition, there is a cafe and lots of comfortable spots to read. Recoleta Cemetery and El Ateneo Grand Splendid are both close by, so I recommend taking a look at both while you are in the area. Experience La Bomba de Tiempo La Bomba de Tiempo is a performance like no other, and one of the wildest nights out I’ve ever had! If you’ll be in the city on a Monday night, you can’t miss this energetic performance. It’s an incredible live percussion show, and it’s popular with locals and tourists alike. Every performance is unique because it’s based on improvisation between the conductor and the musicians. And everyone is dancing and jumping around to it all! The show takes place at the Ciudad Cultural Konex. Tickets are 3,200 ARS ($4 USD) and can be purchased online. Art on display at MALBA, my favorite museum in Buenos Aires, via Brester Irina on Shutterstock Visit Buenos Aires’s Many Museums Buenos Aires is a city of incredible museums. If you’re looking for an indoor activity to do on a rainy day or a day when it’s too hot outside, you can easily spend a few hours browsing one of these great museums. The MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinamericano de Buenos Aires) is my personal favorite, housing an impressive collection of Latin American art. Another must-visit museum for art lovers is the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which features noteworthy works from artists including Picasso, Van Gogh, El Greco, and more. A smaller museum worth a visit is Museo Evita, which is dedicated to the life and works of Eva Perón. This museum will give you more insight into one of Argentina’s most polarizing historical figures and features some really cool exhibits, including many of Evita’s iconic outfits. She was tiny! Some other museums to check out are the Palace of Running Waters (an offbeat museum housed in a historic water pumping station) and the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo, which is housed in an opulent early 20th-century mansion. San Telmo Market gets so busy! Visit San Telmo Market on a Sunday One of the best things to do in the bohemian San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires is visiting its famous Sunday market. The indoor Mercado de San Telmo is open every

day of the week, but on Sundays, a large outdoor market called the Feria de San Telmo takes place, filling the streets around the market hall with hundreds of stalls. It’s a great time, with plenty of opportunities for shopping, dining, and watching live tango on the street. You can also explore the antique shops and art galleries on the surrounding streets in San Telmo. The streets around the market get very crowded on Sundays, so be extra careful about watching your belongings, as it’s a popular spot for pickpockets. Our steak at Don Julio, absolutely beautifully done. Eat at a Fine Steakhouse Buenos Aires is home to some of the best steakhouses on the planet, and if you’re a meat-eater in the least, you need to try it! Two of the best spots in town are Don Julio and La Cabrera. I’ve been to both steakhouses, and most recently ate at Don Julio. This meal was expensive (honestly, the only significantly expensive meal in Buenos Aires, even though we ate at lots of nice places), but the steaks, the sides, the wine, and the atmosphere were top-notch. Don Julio is an experience, from the tomato vines covering the restaurant to the sparkling wine they serve you while waiting for your table. My top recommendation is to make a reservation VERY early, because they go fast. And if you’re not a meat-eater, have I got the place for you — Sacro. Charlie and I ended up at this high-end vegan restaurant on a whim, and SURPRISE — it was the best meal we had in Buenos Aires. Frank’s in Palermo Hollywood is a cocktail bar worth visiting! Cocktail-Hop at Buenos Aires’s Unique Bars Buenos Aires is filled with quirky and unique cocktail bars, especially in Palermo. If you’re looking for a fun night out, cocktail-hop your way through the neighborhood! Nearby in Palermo Hollywood, you’ll find Frank’s, a speakeasy-style bar with hidden rooms and passageways, all outfitted in dark wood and crystal chandeliers. It feels like you’ve time traveled to a mafia den during the prohibition era! A few other bars I enjoyed were Tres Monos, which is dark and has a tiki feel to it, and Backroom Bar, which has cool cocktails and jazz shows. Both of these bars are located in the trendy Palermo Soho neighborhood. Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires, via Walkabout Photo Guides on Shutterstock Tour Palacio Barolo Palacio Barolo is one of the most distinctive buildings in Buenos Aires due to its eclectic architectural style that combines Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and Gothic elements. This historic office building, which was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy, opened in 1923. Today, Palacio Barolo is still home to offices and businesses, but it’s also open for guided tours. This 1.5-hour guided tour will allow you to learn more about the history of this building and explore various spaces, including the upper balconies, which offer some of the best views you’ll see in the city. For an even more unique experience, this evening tour offers a chance to see Palacio Barolo by night and enjoy a glass of wine as you explore the building with a knowledgeable guide. Boca Juniors Football Fans, via Katarzyna Citko on Shutterstock Watch a Football Game One of the top things to do in Buenos Aires is seeing a football game (meaning soccer, my fellow Americans). Argentines go wild for fútbol, and watching a match is an experience you won’t soon forget. There are numerous football teams in Buenos Aires, but Boca Juniors is one of the most popular. You can watch Boca Juniors play at La Bombonera, a famous football stadium in the neighborhood of La Boca. I wouldn’t go solo to a game or even buy tickets on your own unless you have a local who knows what they’re doing. It’s difficult to score tickets, and scams abound. Instead, I’d recommend joining a tour, where they will make sure you have the best experience possible. Know that games can get pretty rowdy! This tour company is best for getting tickets to a Boca Juniors game. They also have tickets for other teams in Buenos Aires, including River Plate and San Lorenzo.

If you aren’t able to make a game, you can still take a tour of La Bombonera, as well as El Monumental, the stadium of the River Plate football team. This five-hour guided tour is the perfect experience for football enthusiasts. Cyclists in Buenos Aires, via Sandra Moraes on Shutterstock Explore Buenos Aires by bike Buenos Aires is a huge city, so exploring by bike makes it easier to cover more ground. The city is quite flat, and there are plenty of bike lanes, so it’s accessible even to beginner cyclists. This half-day bike tour is a great way to discover the city on two wheels. You’ll explore several important neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, including San Nicolas and La Boca. You’ll also cycle through the Reserva Ecologica, the largest park in Buenos Aires, which is located along the waterfront, before finishing the famed Plaza de Mayo. Come early to Cafe Tortoni, or you’ll be waiting in line forever. Grab a morning coffee at one of the “Bares Notables” Buenos Aires is home to a collection of historic cafes called “bares notables” that are beautifully preserved and just as popular today as they were decades ago. In these cafes, time stands still — in the best way. The most famous of the bares notables is Cafe Tortoni, a French-style cafe dating back to 1858. However, this cafe is extremely popular and it always has a line — either go right when they open for the day, or hit up a lesser-known cafe for something special. Las Violetas is a great cafe to check out for a cup of coffee and some sweet pastries or a slice of cake. You can find a full list of the historic cafes in Buenos Aires on this website. Alfajores, like this chocolate raspberry pistachio alfajor, are essential to any Buenos Aires food tour! Go on a Buenos Aires Food Tour The best way to experience the cuisine of Buenos Aires is on a local food tour! A food tour offers a great introduction to the delicious cuisine you’ll find all across the city. Most people think of steak when they think of Buenos Aires, but there’s so much more to Argentine food than that! This food tour will take you through the trendy Palermo neighborhood, stopping along the way at multiple eateries, from local hole-in-the-wall spots to fine dining restaurants. You’ll try eight different dishes, as well as plenty of Argentine wine! Another unique activity is the Argentine Experience, an interactive cooking class and tasting. You’ll learn how to prepare empanadas, mate, and alfajores, some of the most popular food and drinks in Argentina. You’ll also enjoy a steak dinner paired with four local wines. You can’t out-meat an Argentine! Try authentic Argentine asado An asado is a traditional Argentine barbecue with LOTS of meat. It refers to both the dish itself and the way the meat is prepared. If you want to try a typical Argentine asado, this is a great experience to book. Come hungry because over the course of several hours, you’ll enjoy a huge meal including appetizers, various cuts of meat, and dessert, all accompanied by local Malbec wine. Another cool experience is this rooftop asado in Buenos Aires. You’ll learn about what goes into the preparation of each of the dishes you’ll enjoy, including several types of meat, empanadas, and dulce de leche cake for dessert. And you’ll get to enjoy a great ambiance as you dine outdoors on a rooftop in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. One more option is this asado experience that takes place in the garden of a local family’s home. You’ll get to help the grill-master chef prepare your asado for dinner, as well as learn the secrets of making the perfect chimichurri sauce to accompany it. Mate and medialunas — that’s what Buenos Aires does! Via Shutterstock. Sample Argentinian mate If you’re wondering what those pots people are sipping from throughout Argentina, it’s mate (MAH-tay). Mate is a caffeinated herbal beverage that is extremely popular in Argentina. You’ll see people drinking it all day long from little gourd-like cups and metal straws.

Mate is a bit of an acquired taste, but it’s something you must try while in Argentina! This unique mate tasting experience will teach you exactly how to prepare mate like a real Argentine and give you a taste of this traditional beverage. Get ready for the strong, dark reds of Argentina! Go wine tasting Argentina is famous for its wines, especially deep, intense reds like Malbecs. If you can’t make it to the wine hub of Mendoza on this trip, go wine-tasting in Buenos Aires instead! There are plenty of ways to experience Argentina’s wine without straying far from the capital. While it’s true that most vineyards and wineries are located in the central part of the country around Mendoza, there are also several just outside Buenos Aires. This full-day tour takes you to Bodega Gamboa, a popular winery on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. It’s perfect for Malbec aficionados, as you’ll get to sample several varieties of this full-bodied red. You’ll also enjoy a picnic lunch in the vineyards with delicious local cheeses. Or you can try this tango lesson and wine tasting in Buenos Aires. You’ll spend an hour learning about Argentina’s national dance and practicing the basic steps of tango. Then, you can sit down and enjoy a one-hour tasting of local wines, with some freshly-made empanadas to snack on. A show at Teatro Colon is one of the truly special things to do in Buenos Aires. Via T photography on Shutterstock. Visit the Magnificent Teatro Colón Teatro Colón regularly ranks among the best opera houses in the world. This opera house in Buenos Aires opened in 1908 and is renowned for its opulent architecture and interiors. It’s also said to have the best acoustics in the world for performing opera. While in Buenos Aires, touring the theater is a must if you love visiting beautiful spaces. You can only visit the theater on a guided tour, which you can reserve tickets for here. On a guided tour, you’ll learn more about the history of the building and what makes it so special. You’ll have a chance to explore several halls inside the opera house, as well as the auditorium itself. For an even better experience, you can attend a performance at the Teatro Colon. You can see what’s currently on and purchase tickets to performances on the theater’s website. Centro Cultural Kirchner, via Brester Irina on Shutterstock Attend a Cultural Event in Buenos Aires As a world-class capital city, Buenos Aires is home to some great venues where you can attend cultural events for free or cheap. One of the best such venues is the CCK (formerly Centro Cultural Kirchner), which is one of the largest cultural centers in the world. The center hosts regular concerts and other performances. All events are free, but you will need to reserve tickets online (and spots fill up quickly!) Usina del Arte is another cultural center located in the vibrant La Boca neighborhood. The cultural center, which is housed in a former power plant, also has a regular schedule of concerts, performances, and art events. Almost all events are free. For something a little different, head to a horse race at Hipódromo de Palermo. This historic venue hosts horse races several days per week. Horse racing has been very popular in Buenos Aires since the 19th century, and attending a race is a unique cultural experience. You can attend races for free every Saturday at the Hipódromo de Palermo. Polo is surprisingly popular in Argentina! Via Shutterstock. Learn about polo While football may be the most popular sport in Argentina, you might be surprised to learn that polo is also hugely popular, especially in Buenos Aires. This is due to the prevalence of horses and the influence of gaucho (cowboy) culture in Argentina. The Campo Argentino de Polo is a massive polo field located in the heart of Palermo. This venue hosts some of the most important polo events in the country. You can play polo yourself on this half-day tour from Buenos Aires, where you’ll learn about polo from a pro and have a chance to saddle up and hone your skills.

Or, if you’d prefer to watch from the sidelines, this tour includes admission to a nighttime polo match plus unlimited drinks and snacks. Learning to make Argentine empanadas is a souvenir skill you can enjoy forever! Via Shutterstock. Take an Argentine cooking class If you want to learn how to cook some staples of Argentine cuisine while you’re in Buenos Aires, take a cooking class! This is a great way to learn more about the history and culture of Argentina and its food. You’ll also get to try your hand at preparing some classic dishes (and, of course, taste-test the results!). In this 3-hour cooking class, you’ll learn how to prepare empanadas and alfajores, two of the most common snacks in Argentina. Empanadas are made with flour and stuffed with cheese, meats, corn, or other fillings. Alfajores are delicate cookies filled with dulce de leche, a sweet caramel-like sauce that decorates many a sweet dish in Argentina. This class is a great introduction to Argentine cuisine. For a more in-depth experience, consider this 4-hour cooking class. You’ll prepare a multi-course meal with dishes like chipa (a yuca-based cheesy bread), corn stew with veal, and dulce de leche crepes for dessert. With both of these experiences, you’ll work alongside a local chef who will show you the right techniques for crafting these delicious dishes while also explaining their history and significance. A pretty garden in the Recoleta neighborhood. Wander the city gardens While there are several green spaces throughout Buenos Aires, you’ll find the biggest and the best in Palermo. Here, there are multiple interconnected public parks and gardens to explore. The locals of Buenos Aires love this area, which is known as the Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods), for walking, cycling, and roller skating. The Japanese Garden is a must-visit. This tranquil oasis opened in 1967 to celebrate a visit from Japan’s emperor and his wife. There’s a small admission fee of 1,500 ARS ($1.85 USD), but it’s worth the cost to stroll around this relaxing garden. There’s also a Japanese cultural center and restaurant inside the garden. Nearby, the Parque El Rosedal is also worth visiting. This sprawling, elegant park is filled with flowers, including numerous varieties of roses. While you can visit year-round, it’s most beautiful in the summer when the roses are in bloom. You can also check out the Buenos Aires Botanical Gardens while you’re in the area. This is a smaller garden, but it’s perfect to visit on a hot day because there’s plenty of shade. Planetario Galileo Galilei, via Andres Conema on Shutterstock Stargaze at Planetario Galileo Galilei After you’ve discovered the parks and gardens of Buenos Aires, head over to the Planetario Galileo Galilei for some stargazing. This planetarium is located close to the parks, and it resembles a giant UFO. You can purchase tickets to a stargazing show inside the planetarium for 3,000 ARS ($3.68 USD.) It’s a 45-minute show, and it’s important to note that it’s all in Spanish. There’s also a small museum with exhibits at the planetarium. The Tigre Delta is full of surprises, via Shutterstock. Take a day trip to the Tigre Delta One of the best day trips from Buenos Aires is the Tigre Delta. If you ask my friends in Buenos Aires, they will always recommend this as their top day trip from the city. The Tigre Delta, one of the largest natural deltas in the world, is just a 1.5-hour boat ride away from Buenos Aires. It’s home to cute little towns, buildings with interesting architecture, and low-lying wetlands. This day tour from Buenos Aires will take you by boat to the Tigre Delta, with stops in historic San Isidro and Tigre where you’ll be able to explore local markets and sample homemade empanadas. A day trip to Colonia del Sacramento is one of the best things to do in Buenos Aires! Take a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay Did you know that you can visit another country on a day trip from Buenos Aires? The town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay is just one hour and 15 minutes by ferry from Buenos Aires.

This charming small town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is well worth a visit, with picturesque cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, cute cafes, and artisan shops. You can visit Colonia del Sacramento on your own (I recommend booking ferries in advance using DirectFerries, as the ferry company wouldn’t accept foreign credit cards) or with a group tour. This group tour to Colonia del Sacramento includes hotel pick-up and drop-off, ferry tickets, and a two-hour walking tour in Colonia. You’ll also have a professional guide with you all day. If you’re visiting Colonia on your own, I recommend giving yourself five hours for exploration in town, and you’ll want to get an early start — lines for passport control in both Argentina and Uruguay can take a while, and you’ll have to pass through them twice. Scenes from an Estancia, via Shutterstock. Take a Day Trip to an Estancia Another one of the best day trips from Buenos Aires is visiting an estancia, or cattle ranch, in the countryside. Gaucho (cowboy) culture is a huge part of Argentine life, yet most visitors to Buenos Aires have no idea this even exists. This day tour from Buenos Aires is a great option if you want to visit a ranch. You’ll head out to the Pampas, or plains of Argentina, and visit a traditional ranch where you’ll be able to go horseback riding, watch a folklore show, and enjoy a typical asado lunch of grilled meats. You’ll also have the chance to watch gauchos at work and visit the small, historic town of San Antonio de Areco. Inside the Mercado de San Telmo. Watch your back for pickpocketing here! Is Buenos Aires Safe? Is Buenos Aires a safe city to visit? How safe? Well, to start, the vast majority of travelers go to Buenos Aires and have a great time, with no bad incidents. But this is a city where you need to be more vigilant about pickpocketing and theft. I liken Buenos Aires to Paris or Barcelona — a great city, but absolutely crawling with pickpockets, and you should expect them to be among you at any time. Keep an eye on your belongings, use a good purse that zips, and you may prefer taking an Uber at night rather than public transit. (And be sure to check out my top travel safety tips for women.) You might have noticed that I mentioned that there are some areas in town where you need to be especially vigilant: San Telmo (especially at the market on Sunday), La Boca and El Caminito, and the area around Recoleta Cemetery (where I myself was pickpocketed on my first day of solo travel EVER in 2008). Another big issue is that Argentina is going through economic and political instability. The value of the Argentine peso fluctuates continuously, so much that restaurants sometimes change their prices on a daily basis. There are two separate exchange rates, and you as a tourist can get a better rate for your money. ATMs and credit cards will give you good rates, but you can only take out a small amount of cash at a time. It’s a good idea to check in on the local news before and during your trip, just so you can be aware of what’s going on. Like any other city, if there’s protest or political event taking place, avoid that neighborhood. I’ve safely traveled during times of protest in Thailand, France, Greece, and the US and life is usually normal away from the protest areas. Just stay informed. I saw this mural in Palermo, was perplexed, found out Conan O’Brien had it commissioned for his visit to Buenos Aires, and then I couldn’t stop laughing! How Much Time to Spend in Buenos Aires How much time should you spend in Buenos Aires? Honestly, more than you think you need. I most recently spent a week in Buenos Aires and wish I had spent much longer. Even with seven days, there was so much I didn’t have time to do! For that reason, I recommend spending at least three full days in Buenos Aires proper so you have time to explore the city properly. If you have a fourth day, that would be a nice opportunity to visit Colonia del Sacramento or the Tigre Delta — or continue exploring the city.

I see a lot of people allot just a day or two to Buenos Aires — often when planning a trip to Patagonia or Antarctica — and if that’s you, consider adding on a few more days. How to get to Buenos Aires How can you get to Buenos Aires? As one of the largest cities in South America, Buenos Aires is a major air hub with plenty of international flights from North America and Europe. There are two airports in Buenos Aires — EZE hosts primarily international flights with some domestic options, and is an hour’s drive from the city, while AEP is within the city (it took us 25 minutes to get there from Palermo) and mainly offers domestic flights. There are also ferries from the cities of Colonia del Sacramento and Montevideo in Uruguay, and plenty of buses to further destinations in Argentina and beyond. (Just keep in mind that Argentina is a huge country, and bus journeys can be quite long!) Stay in Palermo to enjoy views of Buenos Aires like this one. Where to Stay in Buenos Aires Buenos Aires, as you well know by now, is a huge city with tons of different neighborhoods — so it’s important to choose a good one. My personal favorite neighborhood to stay in is Palermo, with tons of fabulous restaurants and bars, gardens, cool shops, and a lot of buzzing energy. The following properties are the top-rated options in Palermo. Top-Rated Luxury Hotel in Palermo: BE Jardin Escondido By Coppola is a luxurious boutique hotel in Palermo Soho where Francis Ford Coppola stayed while shooting a movie in Buenos Aires. Top-Rated Mid-Range Hotel in Palermo: The best mid-range hotel in Buenos Aires is Magnolia Hotel Boutique, which offers chic and comfortable rooms in the heart of Palermo. Top-Rated Budget Hotel in Palermo: Palermo Bridge is a solid budget hotel in a great location just a short walk away from Buenos Aires’ sprawling city gardens. Top-Rated Hostel in Palermo: For budget travelers and backpackers, PH Palermo Hostel is an affordable place to stay in a fun, lively area. You can visit Buenos Aires year-round, but rain is always a possibility. Best Time to Visit Buenos Aires When should you go to Buenos Aires? I feel like there’s never a bad time to visit Buenos Aires – yes, the seasons are flipped from the northern hemisphere, but the city has mild winters that are great for exploring. The climate is a bit more like Houston than Boston, so to speak, so don’t expect any snow in July. Keep in mind that Buenos Aires’s high season is during the summer months — December to March — and this can often be a hot and humid time to visit. While the city is on the Río de la Plata, you don’t get the cool breezes that you get in coastal cities. You might want to time your trip for the shoulder season (March to May or September to November) for nicer weather with fewer crowds. I love El Ateneo Grand Splendid — and Buenos Aires! Is Buenos Aires Worth It? Are you kidding me? Buenos Aires is incredibly worth it! I absolutely love this city, and I was most recently reminded of why I love it so much. The culture, the nightlife, the incredible food, all for surprisingly reasonable prices — it all adds up to a world-class city! I’m already trying to get myself back to Buenos Aires for a third time. We’ll see how that goes. As for you — I hope you have the best time in Buenos Aires! There’s nowhere else like it. More on Argentina: More on South America: Have you been to Buenos Aires? Any suggestions? Share away! You will be enthralled with Buenos Aires from the moment you arrive. This expansive capital city of South America is so colorful and opulent that it almost looks like Paris, I thought. or Madrid. or Mexico City. But wait until you see Buenos Aires' abundance of interesting activities. You are going to love the amazing food, amazing culture, and exceptional value! Tango performances aside, there are other reasons to visit Buenos Aires: the city's top-notch art museums, amazing live music, and art and culture in general. It is a culinary

destination as well; steak is the specialty, of course, but there is also alfajores, empanadas, and a thriving international food scene. Furthermore, Buenos Aires is a fun city with lots of interesting and quirky bars, late-night dance clubs, and exciting live events. Buenos Aires is among the best-value major cities in the world due to its abundance of affordable options and surprisingly low prices. I went to Buenos Aires for the first time on my own when I was twenty-four years old, and I recently went back for a longer visit over fifteen years later. Has the city undergone changes? Has it ever happened? I have also changed. I can not wait to tell you about the top activities in Buenos Aires. Come with me as we examine! Contributors to this post include Dale Peterson and Adventurous Kate. It was published in March of 2024. Buenos Aires is so much more than this picture suggests! through Shutterstock. Activities in Buenos Aires Examine Buenos Aires's Various Neighborhoods Discovering each of the many neighborhoods in Buenos Aires is one of my favorite things to do while visiting the city. You could visit every neighborhood in Buenos Aires for months and still not see them all. One of the best ways to explore lots of neighborhoods is to take the hop-on, hop-off bus tour. From above, you will be able to see all the best locations in the city and have a comprehensive overview of everything. However, if you’re short on time, this private walking tour takes you to several of the city’s best neighborhoods in one day. These are the top neighborhoods in Buenos Aires that I suggest you prioritize if you have more time to spend there: Palermo Palermo is a trendy, upscale neighborhood with some of the best restaurants, bars, and clubs in the city. It’s actually a huge neighborhood divided into sub-neighborhoods (including Palermo Chico, Palermo Soho, and Palermo Hollywood.) If you’re familiar with the neighborhoods of Mexico City, you’ll understand what I mean when I say that Palermo reminds me a lot of Roma Norte and La Condesa. In New York, Palermo would be a massive East Village. Palermo is home to many of my favorite restaurants in Buenos Aires, including Sacro (vegan), Don Julio (steakhouse), Mishiguene (Jewish Argentine cuisine), and La Carnicería (Argentine meat). In Palermo Soho, you’ll find many of the coolest spots in the city concentrated around the lively Plaza Serrano. In Palermo Chico, the oldest part of the neighborhood, you can explore some of the city’s best museums, like the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA). To learn more about Palermo, check out this graffiti and street art walking tour. Accompanied by a local guide, you’ll learn about Palermo’s history and the political origins of its street art. Keep an eye out for Conan O’Brien’s mural with Lionel Messi and Pope Francis—it cracked me up! El Caminito in La Boca, via Erwin Widmer on Shutterstock. The Boca Historically, one of Buenos Aires' most diverse neighborhoods has been this vibrant, working-class area. When immigrants came to Argentina in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, La Boca was the main port of entry, much like New York City was for them entering the United States. La Boca's most well-known location is El Caminito, a vibrant street dotted with old conventillos, or boarding houses. This street is featured in any photo you may have seen of La Boca. Benito Quinquela Martín, a local artist, spearheaded the neighborhood's revitalization beginning in the 1950s. To truly understand La Boca's history, I highly suggest taking a guided tour of the area. An excellent method to thoroughly explore La Boca is with this guided walking tour. Remember that pickpocketing and minor crimes make La Boca one of the neighborhoods in Buenos Aires where you should be even more cautious. The most elegant street in Recoleta is Avenida Alvear. via Shutterstock user AlexCorv. Recupe y Retiro Strolling around Recoleta and Retiro, you could honestly wonder if you are in Paris or Latin America.

Several of the buildings in these posh neighborhoods are reminiscent of the Haussmannian architecture of Paris and are home to upscale stores and hotels. The Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the most distinctive and exquisite cemeteries on earth and, in my opinion, a must-see attraction in Buenos Aires, is located in Recoleta. The enormous clock tower known as the Torre Monumental honors Argentina's independence and is located in Retiro. The nearby park is a well-liked gathering spot for the community. Buenos Aires' San Telmo is a bohemian neighborhood! The San Telmo Another European-style neighborhood that, in my opinion, could just as easily be placed in Madrid or Rome is San Telmo. The outdoor Feria de San Telmo market is held on Sundays, which makes this artsy, bohemian neighborhood very popular. Weekends are a great time to people watch at the bustling Plaza Dorrego, which is a popular place for street tango. Because there are so many exciting late-night bars in San Telmo, it is also the ideal location for going out late. But San Telmo is another neighborhood to be on your guard because of an increased number of small-time crimes, such as pickpocketing at the bustling market. Puerto Madero skyscrapers, sourced from Shutterstock. Madero Puerto Situated near Buenos Aires' main port, Puerto Madero is a chic and contemporary neighborhood that makes for a pleasant stroll. It is the newest area of the city, full of gleaming skyscrapers, and it is close to San Nicolas, home to many of Buenos Aires' most significant landmarks. For a really unique experience, you can enjoy a sunset cruise with an open bar in Puerto Madero. For an hour, as the sun sets over the water, you will sail down the Rio de la Plata and enjoy views of the city. The US has the White House; Argentina has the Casa Rosada! See the Most Important Sites in San Nicolas, Buenos Aires You can spend an afternoon touring the many significant landmarks in San Nicolas, a historic neighborhood. The Casa Rosada, also known as the Pink House, is the most well-known. It serves as the president of Argentina's official office. It is situated on the large Plaza de Mayo, which also houses the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral and other significant buildings. The Obelisco, a colossal monument honoring Buenos Aires' founding, and the Avenida 9 de Julio, one of the world's broadest avenues, are also located in San Nicolas. These are Buenos Aires' main attractions! One of the most important things to do in Buenos Aires is to see a tango show! via Shutterstock via Gary Yim. Explore Buenos Aires' Tango scene. Tango is an experience that should not be missed while visiting Buenos Aires. The tango is the national dance of Argentina and a mainstay of Buenos Aires culture. There are numerous ways to enjoy tango in the city. Attending a tango performance is the first. These events primarily serve tourists and are held in stunning historic locations throughout Buenos Aires. La Ventana is a popular tango show, or you can catch a performance at Teatro Astor Piazzolla. Going to a milonga is an additional option. The locals go out to dance for fun on these tango evenings. To learn about upcoming milongas, check local forums or ask around as they are not very publicly announced in English. I attended one once, and I had some of my best people-watching experiences ever. Tango performances are also available in real time on the streets of Buenos Aires. The Sunday market in San Telmo and the El Caminito neighborhood of La Boca are two of the greatest places to do this. Although it is free to watch street tango, do not forget to tip the dancers! At last, you can become a proficient tango dancer! Take a private tango lesson to learn the basic steps of the tango from a pro. Visiting Recoleta Cemetery is one of the best things to do in Buenos Aires. Go to Recoleta Cemetery. Even if you are not usually into cemeteries, I highly suggest visiting Recoleta Cemetery as it is one of the most famous cemeteries in the world.

This city of the dead, with its rows of massive stone mausoleums, is well worth a visit. Numerous well-known Argentines are buried there, notably Eva Peron (her grave is easy to miss!). Taking a guided walking tour is highly recommended to get the most out of the cemetery. You will discover more about the past of the graveyard and the individuals interred there. The cost of the walking tour is $10 USD, and cemetery admission is also an additional expense. Due to the unstable Argentinean currency, the admission fee varies, but it is approximately $7 USD and can only be paid with a credit card. Because this is a well-known tourist destination, you should be on the lookout for pickpockets. You can bet that when I got back, I kept a close eye on my bag because I had actually been pickpocketed near the cemetery back in 2008. El Ateneo Grand Splendid was amazing! What a memorable encounter! See the Grand Splendid El Ateneo El Ateneo Grand Splendid is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. This 1919 theater, converted into a magnificent bookstore, is a sight to behold on Instagram. Bibliophiles should not miss this magnificent bookstore, which features multi-tiered balconies, frescoed ceilings, and exquisite original details. I was overjoyed beyond measure! The books are mostly in Spanish, with a tiny amount in English. In addition, there is a cafe and lots of comfortable spots to read. Recoleta Cemetery and El Ateneo Grand Splendid are both close by, so I recommend taking a look at both while you are in the area. Experience La Bomba de Tiempo La Bomba de Tiempo is a performance like no other, and one of the wildest nights out I’ve ever had! If you’ll be in the city on a Monday night, you can’t miss this energetic performance. It’s an incredible live percussion show, and it’s popular with locals and tourists alike. Every performance is unique because it’s based on improvisation between the conductor and the musicians. And everyone is dancing and jumping around to it all! The show takes place at the Ciudad Cultural Konex. Tickets are 3,200 ARS ($4 USD) and can be purchased online. Art on display at MALBA, my favorite museum in Buenos Aires, via Brester Irina on Shutterstock Visit Buenos Aires’s Many Museums Buenos Aires is a city of incredible museums. If you’re looking for an indoor activity to do on a rainy day or a day when it’s too hot outside, you can easily spend a few hours browsing one of these great museums. The MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinamericano de Buenos Aires) is my personal favorite, housing an impressive collection of Latin American art. Another must-visit museum for art lovers is the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which features noteworthy works from artists including Picasso, Van Gogh, El Greco, and more. A smaller museum worth a visit is Museo Evita, which is dedicated to the life and works of Eva Perón. This museum will give you more insight into one of Argentina’s most polarizing historical figures and features some really cool exhibits, including many of Evita’s iconic outfits. She was tiny! Some other museums to check out are the Palace of Running Waters (an offbeat museum housed in a historic water pumping station) and the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo, which is housed in an opulent early 20th-century mansion. San Telmo Market gets so busy! Visit San Telmo Market on a Sunday One of the best things to do in the bohemian San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires is visiting its famous Sunday market. The indoor Mercado de San Telmo is open every day of the week, but on Sundays, a large outdoor market called the Feria de San Telmo takes place, filling the streets around the market hall with hundreds of stalls. It’s a great time, with plenty of opportunities for shopping, dining, and watching live tango on the street. You can also explore the antique shops and art galleries on the surrounding streets in San Telmo. The streets around the market get very crowded on Sundays, so be extra careful about watching your belongings, as it’s a popular spot for pickpockets.

Our steak at Don Julio, absolutely beautifully done. Eat at a Fine Steakhouse Buenos Aires is home to some of the best steakhouses on the planet, and if you’re a meat-eater in the least, you need to try it! Two of the best spots in town are Don Julio and La Cabrera. I’ve been to both steakhouses, and most recently ate at Don Julio. This meal was expensive (honestly, the only significantly expensive meal in Buenos Aires, even though we ate at lots of nice places), but the steaks, the sides, the wine, and the atmosphere were top-notch. Don Julio is an experience, from the tomato vines covering the restaurant to the sparkling wine they serve you while waiting for your table. My top recommendation is to make a reservation VERY early, because they go fast. And if you’re not a meat-eater, have I got the place for you — Sacro. Charlie and I ended up at this high-end vegan restaurant on a whim, and SURPRISE — it was the best meal we had in Buenos Aires. Frank’s in Palermo Hollywood is a cocktail bar worth visiting! Cocktail-Hop at Buenos Aires’s Unique Bars Buenos Aires is filled with quirky and unique cocktail bars, especially in Palermo. If you’re looking for a fun night out, cocktail-hop your way through the neighborhood! Nearby in Palermo Hollywood, you’ll find Frank’s, a speakeasy-style bar with hidden rooms and passageways, all outfitted in dark wood and crystal chandeliers. It feels like you’ve time traveled to a mafia den during the prohibition era! A few other bars I enjoyed were Tres Monos, which is dark and has a tiki feel to it, and Backroom Bar, which has cool cocktails and jazz shows. Both of these bars are located in the trendy Palermo Soho neighborhood. Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires, via Walkabout Photo Guides on Shutterstock Tour Palacio Barolo Palacio Barolo is one of the most distinctive buildings in Buenos Aires due to its eclectic architectural style that combines Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and Gothic elements. This historic office building, which was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy, opened in 1923. Today, Palacio Barolo is still home to offices and businesses, but it’s also open for guided tours. This 1.5-hour guided tour will allow you to learn more about the history of this building and explore various spaces, including the upper balconies, which offer some of the best views you’ll see in the city. For an even more unique experience, this evening tour offers a chance to see Palacio Barolo by night and enjoy a glass of wine as you explore the building with a knowledgeable guide. Boca Juniors Football Fans, via Katarzyna Citko on Shutterstock Watch a Football Game One of the top things to do in Buenos Aires is seeing a football game (meaning soccer, my fellow Americans). Argentines go wild for fútbol, and watching a match is an experience you won’t soon forget. There are numerous football teams in Buenos Aires, but Boca Juniors is one of the most popular. You can watch Boca Juniors play at La Bombonera, a famous football stadium in the neighborhood of La Boca. I wouldn’t go solo to a game or even buy tickets on your own unless you have a local who knows what they’re doing. It’s difficult to score tickets, and scams abound. Instead, I’d recommend joining a tour, where they will make sure you have the best experience possible. Know that games can get pretty rowdy! This tour company is best for getting tickets to a Boca Juniors game. They also have tickets for other teams in Buenos Aires, including River Plate and San Lorenzo. If you aren’t able to make a game, you can still take a tour of La Bombonera, as well as El Monumental, the stadium of the River Plate football team. This five-hour guided tour is the perfect experience for football enthusiasts. Cyclists in Buenos Aires, via Sandra Moraes on Shutterstock Explore Buenos Aires by bike Buenos Aires is a huge city, so exploring by bike makes it easier to cover more ground. The city is quite flat, and there are plenty of bike lanes, so it’s accessible even to beginner cyclists.

This half-day bike tour is a great way to discover the city on two wheels. You’ll explore several important neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, including San Nicolas and La Boca. You’ll also cycle through the Reserva Ecologica, the largest park in Buenos Aires, which is located along the waterfront, before finishing the famed Plaza de Mayo. Come early to Cafe Tortoni, or you’ll be waiting in line forever. Grab a morning coffee at one of the “Bares Notables” Buenos Aires is home to a collection of historic cafes called “bares notables” that are beautifully preserved and just as popular today as they were decades ago. In these cafes, time stands still — in the best way. The most famous of the bares notables is Cafe Tortoni, a French-style cafe dating back to 1858. However, this cafe is extremely popular and it always has a line — either go right when they open for the day, or hit up a lesser-known cafe for something special. Las Violetas is a great cafe to check out for a cup of coffee and some sweet pastries or a slice of cake. You can find a full list of the historic cafes in Buenos Aires on this website. Alfajores, like this chocolate raspberry pistachio alfajor, are essential to any Buenos Aires food tour! Go on a Buenos Aires Food Tour The best way to experience the cuisine of Buenos Aires is on a local food tour! A food tour offers a great introduction to the delicious cuisine you’ll find all across the city. Most people think of steak when they think of Buenos Aires, but there’s so much more to Argentine food than that! This food tour will take you through the trendy Palermo neighborhood, stopping along the way at multiple eateries, from local hole-in-the-wall spots to fine dining restaurants. You’ll try eight different dishes, as well as plenty of Argentine wine! Another unique activity is the Argentine Experience, an interactive cooking class and tasting. You’ll learn how to prepare empanadas, mate, and alfajores, some of the most popular food and drinks in Argentina. You’ll also enjoy a steak dinner paired with four local wines. You can’t out-meat an Argentine! Try authentic Argentine asado An asado is a traditional Argentine barbecue with LOTS of meat. It refers to both the dish itself and the way the meat is prepared. If you want to try a typical Argentine asado, this is a great experience to book. Come hungry because over the course of several hours, you’ll enjoy a huge meal including appetizers, various cuts of meat, and dessert, all accompanied by local Malbec wine. Another cool experience is this rooftop asado in Buenos Aires. You’ll learn about what goes into the preparation of each of the dishes you’ll enjoy, including several types of meat, empanadas, and dulce de leche cake for dessert. And you’ll get to enjoy a great ambiance as you dine outdoors on a rooftop in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. One more option is this asado experience that takes place in the garden of a local family’s home. You’ll get to help the grill-master chef prepare your asado for dinner, as well as learn the secrets of making the perfect chimichurri sauce to accompany it. Mate and medialunas — that’s what Buenos Aires does! Via Shutterstock. Sample Argentinian mate If you’re wondering what those pots people are sipping from throughout Argentina, it’s mate (MAH-tay). Mate is a caffeinated herbal beverage that is extremely popular in Argentina. You’ll see people drinking it all day long from little gourd-like cups and metal straws. Mate is a bit of an acquired taste, but it’s something you must try while in Argentina! This unique mate tasting experience will teach you exactly how to prepare mate like a real Argentine and give you a taste of this traditional beverage. Get ready for the strong, dark reds of Argentina! Go wine tasting Argentina is famous for its wines, especially deep, intense reds like Malbecs. If you can’t make it to the wine hub of Mendoza on this trip, go wine-tasting in Buenos Aires instead! There are plenty of ways to experience Argentina’s wine without straying far from the capital.

While it’s true that most vineyards and wineries are located in the central part of the country around Mendoza, there are also several just outside Buenos Aires. This full-day tour takes you to Bodega Gamboa, a popular winery on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. It’s perfect for Malbec aficionados, as you’ll get to sample several varieties of this full-bodied red. You’ll also enjoy a picnic lunch in the vineyards with delicious local cheeses. Or you can try this tango lesson and wine tasting in Buenos Aires. You’ll spend an hour learning about Argentina’s national dance and practicing the basic steps of tango. Then, you can sit down and enjoy a one-hour tasting of local wines, with some freshly-made empanadas to snack on. A show at Teatro Colon is one of the truly special things to do in Buenos Aires. Via T photography on Shutterstock. Visit the Magnificent Teatro Colón Teatro Colón regularly ranks among the best opera houses in the world. This opera house in Buenos Aires opened in 1908 and is renowned for its opulent architecture and interiors. It’s also said to have the best acoustics in the world for performing opera. While in Buenos Aires, touring the theater is a must if you love visiting beautiful spaces. You can only visit the theater on a guided tour, which you can reserve tickets for here. On a guided tour, you’ll learn more about the history of the building and what makes it so special. You’ll have a chance to explore several halls inside the opera house, as well as the auditorium itself. For an even better experience, you can attend a performance at the Teatro Colon. You can see what’s currently on and purchase tickets to performances on the theater’s website. Centro Cultural Kirchner, via Brester Irina on Shutterstock Attend a Cultural Event in Buenos Aires As a world-class capital city, Buenos Aires is home to some great venues where you can attend cultural events for free or cheap. One of the best such venues is the CCK (formerly Centro Cultural Kirchner), which is one of the largest cultural centers in the world. The center hosts regular concerts and other performances. All events are free, but you will need to reserve tickets online (and spots fill up quickly!) Usina del Arte is another cultural center located in the vibrant La Boca neighborhood. The cultural center, which is housed in a former power plant, also has a regular schedule of concerts, performances, and art events. Almost all events are free. For something a little different, head to a horse race at Hipódromo de Palermo. This historic venue hosts horse races several days per week. Horse racing has been very popular in Buenos Aires since the 19th century, and attending a race is a unique cultural experience. You can attend races for free every Saturday at the Hipódromo de Palermo. Polo is surprisingly popular in Argentina! Via Shutterstock. Learn about polo While football may be the most popular sport in Argentina, you might be surprised to learn that polo is also hugely popular, especially in Buenos Aires. This is due to the prevalence of horses and the influence of gaucho (cowboy) culture in Argentina. The Campo Argentino de Polo is a massive polo field located in the heart of Palermo. This venue hosts some of the most important polo events in the country. You can play polo yourself on this half-day tour from Buenos Aires, where you’ll learn about polo from a pro and have a chance to saddle up and hone your skills. Or, if you’d prefer to watch from the sidelines, this tour includes admission to a nighttime polo match plus unlimited drinks and snacks. Learning to make Argentine empanadas is a souvenir skill you can enjoy forever! Via Shutterstock. Take an Argentine cooking class If you want to learn how to cook some staples of Argentine cuisine while you’re in Buenos Aires, take a cooking class! This is a great way to learn more about the history and culture of Argentina and its food. You’ll also get to try your hand at preparing some classic dishes (and, of course, taste-test the results!).

In this 3-hour cooking class, you’ll learn how to prepare empanadas and alfajores, two of the most common snacks in Argentina. Empanadas are made with flour and stuffed with cheese, meats, corn, or other fillings. Alfajores are delicate cookies filled with dulce de leche, a sweet caramel-like sauce that decorates many a sweet dish in Argentina. This class is a great introduction to Argentine cuisine. For a more in-depth experience, consider this 4-hour cooking class. You’ll prepare a multi-course meal with dishes like chipa (a yuca-based cheesy bread), corn stew with veal, and dulce de leche crepes for dessert. With both of these experiences, you’ll work alongside a local chef who will show you the right techniques for crafting these delicious dishes while also explaining their history and significance. A pretty garden in the Recoleta neighborhood. Wander the city gardens While there are several green spaces throughout Buenos Aires, you’ll find the biggest and the best in Palermo. Here, there are multiple interconnected public parks and gardens to explore. The locals of Buenos Aires love this area, which is known as the Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods), for walking, cycling, and roller skating. The Japanese Garden is a must-visit. This tranquil oasis opened in 1967 to celebrate a visit from Japan’s emperor and his wife. There’s a small admission fee of 1,500 ARS ($1.85 USD), but it’s worth the cost to stroll around this relaxing garden. There’s also a Japanese cultural center and restaurant inside the garden. Nearby, the Parque El Rosedal is also worth visiting. This sprawling, elegant park is filled with flowers, including numerous varieties of roses. While you can visit year-round, it’s most beautiful in the summer when the roses are in bloom. You can also check out the Buenos Aires Botanical Gardens while you’re in the area. This is a smaller garden, but it’s perfect to visit on a hot day because there’s plenty of shade. Planetario Galileo Galilei, via Andres Conema on Shutterstock Stargaze at Planetario Galileo Galilei After you’ve discovered the parks and gardens of Buenos Aires, head over to the Planetario Galileo Galilei for some stargazing. This planetarium is located close to the parks, and it resembles a giant UFO. You can purchase tickets to a stargazing show inside the planetarium for 3,000 ARS ($3.68 USD.) It’s a 45-minute show, and it’s important to note that it’s all in Spanish. There’s also a small museum with exhibits at the planetarium. The Tigre Delta is full of surprises, via Shutterstock. Take a day trip to the Tigre Delta One of the best day trips from Buenos Aires is the Tigre Delta. If you ask my friends in Buenos Aires, they will always recommend this as their top day trip from the city. The Tigre Delta, one of the largest natural deltas in the world, is just a 1.5-hour boat ride away from Buenos Aires. It’s home to cute little towns, buildings with interesting architecture, and low-lying wetlands. This day tour from Buenos Aires will take you by boat to the Tigre Delta, with stops in historic San Isidro and Tigre where you’ll be able to explore local markets and sample homemade empanadas. A day trip to Colonia del Sacramento is one of the best things to do in Buenos Aires! Take a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay Did you know that you can visit another country on a day trip from Buenos Aires? The town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay is just one hour and 15 minutes by ferry from Buenos Aires. This charming small town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is well worth a visit, with picturesque cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, cute cafes, and artisan shops. You can visit Colonia del Sacramento on your own (I recommend booking ferries in advance using DirectFerries, as the ferry company wouldn’t accept foreign credit cards) or with a group tour. This group tour to Colonia del Sacramento includes hotel pick-up and drop-off, ferry tickets, and a two-hour walking tour in Colonia. You’ll also have a professional guide with you all day.

If you’re visiting Colonia on your own, I recommend giving yourself five hours for exploration in town, and you’ll want to get an early start — lines for passport control in both Argentina and Uruguay can take a while, and you’ll have to pass through them twice. Scenes from an Estancia, via Shutterstock. Take a Day Trip to an Estancia Another one of the best day trips from Buenos Aires is visiting an estancia, or cattle ranch, in the countryside. Gaucho (cowboy) culture is a huge part of Argentine life, yet most visitors to Buenos Aires have no idea this even exists. This day tour from Buenos Aires is a great option if you want to visit a ranch. You’ll head out to the Pampas, or plains of Argentina, and visit a traditional ranch where you’ll be able to go horseback riding, watch a folklore show, and enjoy a typical asado lunch of grilled meats. You’ll also have the chance to watch gauchos at work and visit the small, historic town of San Antonio de Areco. Inside the Mercado de San Telmo. Watch your back for pickpocketing here! Is Buenos Aires Safe? Is Buenos Aires a safe city to visit? How safe? Well, to start, the vast majority of travelers go to Buenos Aires and have a great time, with no bad incidents. But this is a city where you need to be more vigilant about pickpocketing and theft. I liken Buenos Aires to Paris or Barcelona — a great city, but absolutely crawling with pickpockets, and you should expect them to be among you at any time. Keep an eye on your belongings, use a good purse that zips, and you may prefer taking an Uber at night rather than public transit. (And be sure to check out my top travel safety tips for women.) You might have noticed that I mentioned that there are some areas in town where you need to be especially vigilant: San Telmo (especially at the market on Sunday), La Boca and El Caminito, and the area around Recoleta Cemetery (where I myself was pickpocketed on my first day of solo travel EVER in 2008). Another big issue is that Argentina is going through economic and political instability. The value of the Argentine peso fluctuates continuously, so much that restaurants sometimes change their prices on a daily basis. There are two separate exchange rates, and you as a tourist can get a better rate for your money. ATMs and credit cards will give you good rates, but you can only take out a small amount of cash at a time. It’s a good idea to check in on the local news before and during your trip, just so you can be aware of what’s going on. Like any other city, if there’s protest or political event taking place, avoid that neighborhood. I’ve safely traveled during times of protest in Thailand, France, Greece, and the US and life is usually normal away from the protest areas. Just stay informed. I saw this mural in Palermo, was perplexed, found out Conan O’Brien had it commissioned for his visit to Buenos Aires, and then I couldn’t stop laughing! How Much Time to Spend in Buenos Aires How much time should you spend in Buenos Aires? Honestly, more than you think you need. I most recently spent a week in Buenos Aires and wish I had spent much longer. Even with seven days, there was so much I didn’t have time to do! For that reason, I recommend spending at least three full days in Buenos Aires proper so you have time to explore the city properly. If you have a fourth day, that would be a nice opportunity to visit Colonia del Sacramento or the Tigre Delta — or continue exploring the city. I see a lot of people allot just a day or two to Buenos Aires — often when planning a trip to Patagonia or Antarctica — and if that’s you, consider adding on a few more days. How to get to Buenos Aires How can you get to Buenos Aires? As one of the largest cities in South America, Buenos Aires is a major air hub with plenty of international flights from North America and Europe. There are two airports in Buenos Aires — EZE hosts primarily international flights with some domestic options, and is an hour’s drive

from the city, while AEP is within the city (it took us 25 minutes to get there from Palermo) and mainly offers domestic flights. There are also ferries from the cities of Colonia del Sacramento and Montevideo in Uruguay, and plenty of buses to further destinations in Argentina and beyond. (Just keep in mind that Argentina is a huge country, and bus journeys can be quite long!) Stay in Palermo to enjoy views of Buenos Aires like this one. Where to Stay in Buenos Aires Buenos Aires, as you well know by now, is a huge city with tons of different neighborhoods — so it’s important to choose a good one. My personal favorite neighborhood to stay in is Palermo, with tons of fabulous restaurants and bars, gardens, cool shops, and a lot of buzzing energy. The following properties are the top-rated options in Palermo. Top-Rated Luxury Hotel in Palermo: BE Jardin Escondido By Coppola is a luxurious boutique hotel in Palermo Soho where Francis Ford Coppola stayed while shooting a movie in Buenos Aires. Top-Rated Mid-Range Hotel in Palermo: The best mid-range hotel in Buenos Aires is Magnolia Hotel Boutique, which offers chic and comfortable rooms in the heart of Palermo. Top-Rated Budget Hotel in Palermo: Palermo Bridge is a solid budget hotel in a great location just a short walk away from Buenos Aires’ sprawling city gardens. Top-Rated Hostel in Palermo: For budget travelers and backpackers, PH Palermo Hostel is an affordable place to stay in a fun, lively area. You can visit Buenos Aires year-round, but rain is always a possibility. Best Time to Visit Buenos Aires When should you go to Buenos Aires? I feel like there’s never a bad time to visit Buenos Aires – yes, the seasons are flipped from the northern hemisphere, but the city has mild winters that are great for exploring. The climate is a bit more like Houston than Boston, so to speak, so don’t expect any snow in July. Keep in mind that Buenos Aires’s high season is during the summer months — December to March — and this can often be a hot and humid time to visit. While the city is on the Río de la Plata, you don’t get the cool breezes that you get in coastal cities. You might want to time your trip for the shoulder season (March to May or September to November) for nicer weather with fewer crowds. I love El Ateneo Grand Splendid — and Buenos Aires! Is Buenos Aires Worth It? Are you kidding me? Buenos Aires is incredibly worth it! I absolutely love this city, and I was most recently reminded of why I love it so much. The culture, the nightlife, the incredible food, all for surprisingly reasonable prices — it all adds up to a world-class city! I’m already trying to get myself back to Buenos Aires for a third time. We’ll see how that goes. As for you — I hope you have the best time in Buenos Aires! There’s nowhere else like it. More on Argentina: More on South America: Have you been to Buenos Aires? Any suggestions? Share away!

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