“Chinatown, San Francisco California, 1895.” Photograph by Wilhelm Hester (from the University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections). This photo shows a view north up Washington Place, a.k.a. Washington Alley (“Fish Alley” to English speakers) or “Tuck Wo Gaai” (德和街) to old Chinatown’s residents.
Washington Place: Chinatown’s “Fish Alley” 德和街
The street on which one of my grandmothers was born in 1898 had already begun to acquire a rich photographic legacy as an iconic alleyway whose south-north axis connected Washington to Jackson Streets in San Francisco’s old Chinatown. Prior to the Great Earthquake and Fire of 1906, the city had designated the short street as “Washington Place.”
The photographers of old Chinatown often called the street (which would later be re-named Wentworth Place after the quake), as Washington Alley and “Fish Alley.” Chinatown residents referred to the alleyway as “Tuck Wo Gaai” (德和街; lit.: “Virtuous Harmony St.; canto: “Duck Wo gaai”), the name of a well-known business which was located at least as early as 1875 on the southwest corner of the “T” intersection of Washington Place with Jackson Street.
Fish Alley must be considered one of old Chinatown’s most famous streets, the images of which were captured by various photographers and artists during the 19th century. While far from complete, this article attempts to identify the businesses at each identifiable address from photos that are available online. The businesses operating on Washington Place during the latter decades of the 19th century established the small street as one of the iconic alleyways of the pre-1906 community. The photos are grouped roughly in the order they would have appeared to a pedestrian walking north on Fish Alley from Washington to Jackson streets.
“In the Heart of Chinatown, San Francisco, California” c. 1892. Photographer unknown, stereograph published by J.F. Jarvis (from the Robert N. Dennis collection, New York Public Library).
“In the Heart of Chinatown, San Francisco, U.S.A.” c. 1892. This enlarged photo from the original stereograph looks north up Washington Place or Alley, a.k.a. “Fish Alley,” from Washington to Jackson Street.
At least one motion picture of life on the street has survived to this day, a “Mutoscope” from April 1903. (See, e.g., https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53DTuc6-1hI&ab_channel=LibraryofCongress)
A portion of the hand-drawn map by immigration officer John Lynch from 1894. Washington Street at the southern end of Washington Place appears at the top of the image.
The attempts by local historians to identify various places on Fish Alley has also been helped by the preservation of a hand-drawn immigration officer map from 1894 (the “1894 Map”), as well as numerous business directories showing the names and addresses of the businesses operating on this street prior to the destruction of the neighborhood in 1906.
“Chinatown, San Francisco, Cal.” C. 1890. Photographer unknown (from the Marilyn Blaisdell Collection). This photo was taken from Washington Street looking north up Washington Place (a.k.a. Fish Alley) toward Jackson Street.
“Street in Chinese Quarter – San Francisco” c. 1870s. Photograph possibly taken by the studio of Thomas Houseworth & Co. Image courtesy of Wolfgang Sell of the National Stereoscopic Association. This stereocard shows Emperor Norton (at right) on Chinatown’s “Fish Alley” a.k.a. Washington Place (looking north toward Jackson Street).
By the 1870’s, Fish Alley or Washington Place had already acquired its status as a destination to view in old Chinatown. No less than a local celebrity such as Emperor Norton would pose for a photo on an ever-busy fish and poultry venue.
Untitled photo of Washington Place (a.k.a. Fish Alley), no date. Photo produced by the studio of Isaiah West Taber (from the collection of the California Historical Society). The Tuck Hing meat market appears at the left on the northwest corner of the T-intersection of Fish Alley and Washington Street. The identity of the photographer holding his camera and tripod at the left-center of the image is unknown.
“B 2689 Provision Market in Alley in Chinatown, San Francisco” c. 1891. Photograph probably by Carleton Watkins but printed as a [I.W.] Taber Photo (from the Marilyn Blaisdell collection). This photo shows a view north up Washington Place (a.k.a. Washington Alley or “Fish Alley” to English speakers) or “Tuck Wo Gaai” (德和街) taken sometime between 1880-1891. In a travel book in which the photo “The Provision Market [etc.]” appeared, the writer observed that the market “supplies a better class of food to customers than the markets in China itself. In China the shops sell, rats, mice, dogs, cats and snails; poultry is sold by the piece – so much for a leg, so much for a wing. In San Francisco food is more easily obtainable and money is not so scarce, so that the Chinaman lives better than in his own country… .”
“Chinatown at Night” published by Britton & Rey (from the collection of Wong Yuen-Ming). The postcard image was derived from the Taber Photo “B 2689 Provision Market in Alley in Chinatown, San Francisco” c. 1891.
The above photo and derivative postcard in this series was sold by Isaiah West Taber under the title “Provisions Market in Alley in Chinatown, San Francisco,” but the image was probably captured by Carleton Watkins and acquired by Taber in the aftermath of Watkins’ bankruptcy. The identity of the store shown at the left in the photo is well-known as the Tuck Hing meat market. The market appeared frequently in Chinatown directories from that era and the living memories of Chinatown’s oldest residents.
Listing for the Tuck Hing meat market at 746 Washington St. from the Horn Hong & Co. Chinatown Business Directory and lunar Calendar for 1892.
According to the directories and 1894 Map, the corner market was operated under the name “Tuck Hing Butchers” in a brick building at 746 Washington Street and its alley address at no. 2 Washington Place (in the Langley directory of 1895). The Tuck Hing meat market operated for about a century from 1888 to 1988 at the same northwest corner of the intersection of Washington Street with Washington Place (later named Wentworth).
Across the street from Tuck Hing, on the northeast corner of the intersection of Washington Place and Washington Street, a visitor to Fish Alley around the turn of the century would see another corner store, the Sun Lun Sang Co. at 1 Washington Place.
Fish Alley, no date. Photograph by Turrill & Miller from the Marilyn Blaisdell collection). The Sung Lun (or Lung) Sang, a.k.a. Sun Lung Sing (新聯生; canto: “Sun Luen Saang”) general merchandise store appears at right.
Listing for the Sun Lung Sang market at no. 1 Washington St. from the Horn Hong & Co. Chinatown Business Directory and Lunar Calendar for 1892.
“One Washington Place,” c. 1892-1896. Photograph by Arnold Genthe (from the collection of the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division). The store signage for Sun Lun Sang company (新聯生; canto: “sun luen saang”) appears along the left of the frame. The trees of Portsmouth Square and the tower portion of the Hall of Justice are visible through the open, south-facing window along Washington Street frontage.
Historian Jack Tchen identified the store at the northeast corner of Fish Alley and Washington Street as the Sun Lun Sang Co. (新聯生; canto: “Sun Luen Saang” ) “Caged chickens are clearly visible on the right,” Tchen writes. “The photograph was probably taken during New Year’s, because the children are dressed in fancy clothing. The simply dressed woman looking on is probably a house servant to a wealthy merchant family.”
“One Washington Place” c. 1897. Photograph by Arnold Genthe (from the collection of the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division). “In this view, taken sometime after 1897,” Jack Tchen writes, “the store sign reads ‘Yow Sing & Co., No. 2.’The man in the basement stairwell is holding a Chinese scale (cheng). The wooden panels on the left are used to board up the storefront after business hours.”
“Chinatown – fish market, circa 1900.” Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). A fishmonger talks to a young shopper while cleaning a fish at his sidewalk cutting board probably at no. 5 or 6/12 Washington Place, a.k.a. Fish Alley.
“Fish Market, two men,” c. 1900. Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). The same fishmonger talks to a male shopper in front of the store at 5 Washington Place. The window of the barbershop has been scratched out at the right of the frame.
D.H. Wulzen’s photos of a fish store serving a child customer and a lone man fortunately captured a faint images of its business signage, i.e., 昌聚魚鋪 = (lit. “Prosperous Gathering”; canto: “Cheung Jeuih yu poh”; pinyin: “Chāng jù yú pù”). The small store had apparently established itself after the preparation of the 1894 immigration map and by the turn of the century, its address at no. 5 or 6-1/2 Washington Place can be determined by its neighbor, whose business name on its window can be read as 同德 (canto: “Tuhng Duck”), a barbershop located at no. 3 Washington Place.
Listing for the “Tong Tuck” barbershop at 3 Washington Place from the Horn Hong & Co. Chinatown Business Directory and lunar Calendar for 1892.
Several photos of Arnold Genthe provide the basis for a reasonable guess about the Chung Hing & Co. poultry store’s probable occupancy of the space at no. 4 Washington Place.
“Fish Alley, Chinatown, San Francisco” a.k.a. “Booth, Fish Alley, Chinatown, San Francisco” undated [c. 1895- 1905]. Photograph by Arnold Genthe (from the collection of the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division). “Freshly killed chickens are hanging from the rack,” writes historian Jack Tchen, “with wooden chicken crates visible in the background. Fish as redisplayed on the table to the right. An American-made scale is hanging in the upper left-hand corner of the photograph.”
In addition to his Fish Alley photo which appeared in two editions of his photos of old Chinatown, Arnold Genthe took at least two other wider-angle images of the Chung Hing & Co. store.
“Two women and a child walking down a sidewalk between crates, Chinatown, San Francisco” c. 1896- 1906. Photograph by Arnold Genthe (from the collection of the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division).
This clumsily-named photo of a man and probably two daughters walking past a poultry store appears to be the same shop depicted in Genthe’s “Fish Alley” photo, at no. 4 Washington Place. Although two large lanterns adorn the entryway, the work table (at left), the scale and the basket of eggs suspended to the left of its entrance are identical.
“Vendors and a horse and cart on a street, Chinatown, San Francisco,” c. 1896- 1906. Photograph by Arnold Genthe (from the collection of the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division). This photo represents the third image captured by Genthe of the poultry store probably located at no. 4 Washington Place, a.k.a. Fish Alley. The presence of the pair of lanterns over the entryway to the store indicates that it was taken closer in time to the preceding photo of a man and his daughters walking past this store.
Genthe’s photos from across the alleyway affords a better view of the building elevations. The “Vendors” photo probably depicts the west side of Washington Place or Alley on which the poultry stores operated. From left to right, one sees the Fish Alley store occupying the larger opening of a brick building, followed by a narrower entry opening, presumably leading to a stairway to the upper floors. The horse cart is parked in front of a wooden structure which abuts a two-story brick building with a light façade which, in turn, is adjacent another brick building. This combination of buildings, i.e., “brick-wood-brick-brick” more closely fits the line of structures starting at no. 4 Washington Place and proceeding sequentially as noted on the 1894 Map sketched by immigration officer John Lynch (the “1894 Map”).
“Fish Market, Two Men,” circa 1901. Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). Wulzen’s photo depicts the same poultry store seen in Genthe’s “Fish Alley” and related photos. The store’s poultry cages against the left wall of the interior are more visible in the background. The stairway to the upper floors appears more clearly in the center, and the Wulzen photo confirms the wooden construction of the adjacent building at right.
Fortunately, Dietrich H. Wulzen, Jr., shared with his photographic peers a fascination with the businesses which operated on old Chinatown’s Fish Alley. Viewing both images of the same store by Genthe and Wulzen allows the viewer to understand better the context of the built environment of Fish Alley and, in particular, the location of the poultry store at no. 4 Washington Place.
“Clerk at poultry market, chicken hanging,” circa 1901. Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). Wulzen took another photo of the Chung Hing & Co. poultry store at 4 Washington Place from a different angle and into its interior. The “clerk” seen dressing a bird appears to be the same man seen in the background of the previous photo in this series.
In his book Picturing Chinatown: Art and Orientalism in San Francisco, art historian Anthony W. Lee wrote about Wulzen and “Fish Market, Two Men” as follows:
“[Wulzen] was especially attentive to Genthe’s pictures of these spaces in the quarter more frequented by the working class. Of his fifty-five plates, more than forty were shot in the alleys, including Fish Market, Two Men … photographed on Washington Place. It closely resembles Genthe’s picture of the same subject …, differing primarily in the angle of approach and the wares (fish, not poultry) that the vendor has displayed. Wulzen even carefully registers the sloping table and the slight angles of the two washbasins beneath it, just as Genthe had done.”
Unlike the case of several of his prominent contemporaries, Wulzen’s glass plate negatives escaped the destruction caused by the 1906 Earthquake and Fire, and his son Frank donated the negatives to the San Francisco Public Library (SFPL) on the 90th anniversary of the disaster. The SFPL added Wulzen’s Chinatown scenes to its online offerings in 2016. Born in 1862, Wulzen became a pharmacist in 1889, studying at the Affiliated Colleges on Parnassus Heights. In the 1890s, according to the SFPL, he became interested in photography and added a Kodak Agency to his drug store. Wulzen joined the California Camera Club and became known for a photographic style which was “straightforward and realistic, unlike the dominant ‘artist’ photography of the club.”
“Chinese Fish Peddler, San Francisco Chinatown” c. 1900. Photographer unknown (from the collection of the Monterey County Historical Society). This hitherto unidentified photo also appears to be the same shop at no. 4 Washington Place which had attracted the interests of photographers Genthe and Wulzen.
The 1894 Map identifies the shop at no. 4 Washington Place as the “Chung King poultry & fish” store, but the business listings of the day, such as the Horn Hom & Co. directory of 1892 lists the name as “Chung Hing” (祥興; canto: “Cheung Hing”), and the 1895 Langley directory denotes the name as “Chong Hing & Co., 4 Washington Alley.”
“The Fish Market” undated [c. 1895- 1905]. Photograph by Arnold Genthe (from the collection of the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division). A print of this photo is also known by the title “Fish Market Scales” (without attribution to Genthe) in the collection of the California Historical Society.
Based on the small sign appearing above the doorway on the right of the image, historian Jack Tchen identified the location of this scene as the Chong Tsui store (昌咀; lit. Prosperous Assemblage”; canto: “Cheung Jeuih”) at 5-½ Washington Place.
Examination of images by other photographers and the Horn Hom Co. business directory of 1892 indicate that Jack Tchen misidentified the store in his book about Arnold Genthe’s photographs. The Chinese signage over the main storefront entrance of the store shown in Genthe’s photo reads from right to left as 廣興 or Quong Hing (canto: “Gwong Hing”). The Quong Hing store was located at 7 Washington Place.
Listing for the “Qung Hing” meat market at 7 Washington Place from the Horn Hong & Co. Chinatown Business Directory and lunar Calendar for 1892.
Untitled photo of the Quong Hing store located at 7 Washington Place, c. 1892. Photographer unknown (from a private collector item on eBay). The sign for the store appears more clearly in the upper-right corner of this photo than as shown in the Arnold Genthe photo of the same store.
“Chinatown market, San Francisco California, 1895.” Photograph by Wilhelm Hester (from the University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections). The sign appearing in the left of the frame reads 恆昌棧 (canto: “Hun Cheung Jan”; lit. “Lasting Prosperity store”), which occupied the space at no. 7 Washington Place or Alley.
To some readers, the Chinese character “棧” could also be interpreted to be an “inn” or a boarding house. However, the Langley directories of 1894 and 1895 (the same year during which Wilhelm Hester took his photograph of a group of men gathered outside this storefront), lists a fish purveyor, “Hung Chong John, 7 Washington Alley.”
Hester is perhaps best known for his documenting the maritime activities of the Puget Sound Region and his time spent in Alaska during the gold rush of 1898. According to the University of Washington archivists, the bulk of his photos of the early history of ships and shipping in Washington State were taken between 1893 and 1906. Born in Germany in 1872, Hester moved to the Pacific Northwest in 1893. He established successful photo studios in Seattle and Tacoma, principally taking and selling photographs of maritime subjects, as ships from around the world and their crews docked at various Puget Sound ports.
The listing for the Hung Chong John store in the Langley directory of 1895
It appears that the Hung Chong John business shared the same address as the Quong Hing store. The address-sharing was not uncommon for this building. At least as early as 1885 (when the city prepared its “official map” of Chinatown), the building at no. 7 Washington Place was subdivided by three businesses all with the same address.
Detail showing the subdivision of the building at no. 7 Washington Place in the San Francisco Board of Supervisors official map of Chinatown, July 1885 (from the Cooper Chow collection at the Chinese Historical Society of America).
Untitled photo of the west side of Washington Place (a.k.a. “Fish Alley), probably in the morning. Photographer unknown. The wooden structure at left probably served as the shop spaces for the Kim Kee and Man Hop stores occupying the addresses at no. 6 - 8 Washington Place.
Unfortunately, the Langley directory of 1893 omits a separate Chinese directory and appears to have excluded Chinese businesses from its general listings. Based on its omission from the Horn Hong & Co. directory/calendar of 1892, the Hung Chong John store’s 1894 listing validates the year of 1895 during which Wilhelm Hester reportedly took his set of photos of Chinatown’s Fish Alley along Washington Place.
“Chinatown – fish market, c. 1900.” Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). D.H. Wulzen’s no-nonsense approach produced vivid images of one store in particular, the Hop Chong Jan company, located at 12 Washington Place.
D.H. Wulzen took at least three versions of his “Fish Market” photo (one of which is reversed on the SF Public Library website). The business sign on the middle column of the storefront reads as follows: 合昌棧 (canto: “Hop Cheung Jaanh”; pinyin: “Hé chāng zhàn”). According to the 1894 Map, a business named “Hop Chong Jan & Co.” was located on the east side of the street at no. 12 Washington Place (a.k.a. Fish Alley).
Detail from 1894 map of Washington Place or Alley by immigration officer John Lynch (from the collection of the National Archives).
Listing for the Hop Chong Jan market at 12 Washington Place from the Horn Hong & Co. Chinatown Business Directory and Lunar Calendar for 1892.
“Chinatown – fish market, c. 1900. Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). The business sign on the middle column of the storefront in this image is more faint, but the Chinese characters of 合昌棧 (canto: “Hop Cheung jaanh”; pinyin: “Hé chāng zhàn”) can be discerned.
The Hop Chong Jan company store also inspired other camerapersons to photograph its daily operations. The upper level of the building in which the Hop Chong Jan company at no. 12 Washington Place featured a wrought-iron balcony. The balcony grillwork enhanced interest in this building, as it figured prominently in other photographs and postcards from that era.
“Fish Alley, Chinatown” c. 1900. Photographer and postcard artist unknown, published by Edward H. Mitchell of San Francisco). Although unidentified, the postcard depicts the Hop Chong Jan company at no. 12 Washington Place. The details seen in the card are extraordinary, as they include sidewalk items seen in the photographs of the same building by D.H. Wulzen.
Untitled, San Francisco Chinatown, c. 1900. The sign on the column of the storefront 合昌棧 (canto: “Hop Cheung jaanh”; pinyin: “Hé Chāng zhàn”) can be seen in the center for the Hop Chong Jan fish market at no. 12 Washington Place.
“Chinatown market, San Francisco California, 1895.” Photograph by Wilhelm Hester (from the University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections). In this view of two men in front of the store at no. 12 Washington Place, looking toward the southeast from the middle of the alleyway, the sign on the column (in the right half of the frame) faintly reads 合昌棧 (canto: “Hop Cheung jaanh”; pinyin: “Hé Chāng zhàn”) for the Hop Chong Jan fish market.
“Chinatown market, San Francisco California, 1895.” Photograph by Wilhelm Hester (from the University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections). In this closer view of two Chinese and one white man in front of the store at no. 12 Washington Place, looking toward the southeast from the middle of the alleyway, the store’s sign cannot be seen. The presence of two lanterns from under the balcony’s overhang indicates that this photo was taken of the Hop Chong Jan (合昌棧; canto: “Hop Cheung jaanh”; pinyin: “Hé chāng zhàn”) market at a different time. Certain details such as the window at left, the hanging scale, and the display shelves are identical to Hester’s other photos of the store.
“Chinatown, San Francisco California,” c. 1895. Photograph by Wilhelm Hester (from the University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections). In this street scene showing two Chinese American men and a child in front of a market, the view is of no. 12 Washington Place, looking south down the east side of the alleyway toward Washington Street. Certain details such as the window at left, the hanging scale, and the display shelves are identical to Hester’s other photos of the Hop Chong Jan 合昌棧 (canto: “Hop Cheung jaanh”; pinyin: “Hé Chāng zhàn”) market.
Untitled photo of Washington Place, a.k.a. Fish Alley, in pre-1906 Chinatown. Photographer unknown (from the collection of the Bancroft Library). The photo shows almost the full elevation of the building at no. 12 Washington Place on the east side of the short street, looking north toward Jackson Street. To the right of the store frontage, a door and an interior stairway appears in virtually all images of the building at no. 12 Washington Place. The stairs presumably lead to the upper floors of the building. My grandmother, Lillian Hee, was born in one of upper apartments above this store on October 31,1898.
“Chinatown – fish market on Dupont Street, circa 1900.” Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library).
Wulzen’s photo of a fish market fortunately included the signage for “Hop Sing – clams” in the left of the frame. The San Francisco Public Library’s information that this market was located on Dupont Street is probably erroneous for at least several reasons. The 1894 Map by immigration officer John Lynch placed a “Hop Sing fish" company as located at No. 13 Washington Place (a.k.a. Fish Alley), on the west side of the street. Lynch also included a notation that the building was of “wood” construction, and Wulzen’s photo supports that conclusion. Moreover, the low-rise aspect of the building in the photo appears inconsistent with the higher elevation structures on Dupont Street in Chinatown. The Langley business directory of 1895 tends to support Lynch’s finding, although it lists a “Y Sing & Co.” at 13 Washington Alley, which might have been a typographical error.
“Chinatown – fish market, circa 1900.” Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). For this close-up shot of the same Hop Sing market (no. 13 Washington Place), the San Francisco Public Library has produced no evidence backing its claim of a Dupont St. location.
“Fish Market, One man sitting, "HOP SING CLAMS" sign,” circa 1900.” Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). This third shot of the Hop Sing market (at 13 Washington Place shows its operator during a lull in customers. The San Francisco Public Library also incorrectly identifies the location of the market on Dupont Street.
“Chinatown – fish market, circa 1900.” Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). Fortunately, the photograph shows a portion of the business sign above the man holding a scale and which was largely obscured by the store’s awning. According to the 1894 map and the Horn Hong & Co. directory of 1892, the Quong Shing (廣城; canto: “Gwang Sing”) store was located at no. 15 Washington Place. The 1894 map described the “Quong Shing & Co.” as a small general merchandise store.
“Fish Market, a woman watches a man weigh fish,” c. 1900. Photograph by D. H. Wulzen (from the D.H. Wulzen Glass Plate Negative Collection (Sfp 40), San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library). From a slightly different angle as the preceding photo, Wulzen took a second shot of the Quong Shing (廣城; canto: “Gwang Sing”) store was located at no. 15 Washington Place.
“Fishmonger.” Photographer unknown from the collection of the California Historical Society). The proprietor of a fish store provides an unusual smile in this photo taken on old Chinatown’s Fish Alley. The only clue to the store’s location are provided by the business signage in the upper center of the image and above a handwritten number “22” on the inside left wall of the shop entrance: a fanciful Chinese name 老倌 祥城魚棧客 (lit.: “Old Shepherd Felicitous City Fish Store”; canto: “Low gwun cheung sing yu jahn haak”; pinyin: Lǎo guān xiáng chéng yú zhàn kè).
The store at no. 22 Washington Place was located almost in the middle of the block on the eastern side of the street. Unfortunately, only the prior occupant of the storefront space was not noted on the 1894 Map, and the name of a predecessor business (“Tong Yuen Hing”) appears in the Horn Hong & Co. directory of 1892 at the address.
The middle portion of the hand-drawn map of Washington Place or Alley by immigration officer John Lynch from 1894. The southerly end of the alleyway appears at the top of the image.
The last third of the hand-drawn map of Washington Place or Alley by immigration officer John Lynch from 1894. The northerly end of the alleyway at Jackson Street appears toward the bottom of the sketch.
A portion of “No. 145. Chinese Restaurant, San Francisco. Cal.” c. 1875. Stereograph by J.J. Reilly (from the collection of the Oakland Museum of California). The barely discernible Chinese characters on the glass lanterns of the second floor balcony further attest to the restaurant’s name as 聚英楼 or, Cantonese pronunciation, “Jeuih Ying Lauh”). The Bishop directory of 1875 confirms that the English rendering of the restaurant’s name was “Choy Yan Low,” and its address listing read as follows: “restaurant SE cor [sic] Washington alley and Jackson.”
According to the maps of that era, the southeast corner of the intersection corresponded to the address of 633 Jackson Street. As indicated by the 1894 Map, gambling establishments dominated the northern end and eastside of Washington Place (as the pattern that appeared in the “vice map” prepared by the city in July 1885). Not surprising, three men can be seen standing on the eastside sidewalk of Washington Place (at right); they are positioned near the entrances to the gambling parlors.
Detail of the north end of Washington Place from the July 1885 “vice map” of prepared by San Francisco.
Untitled photo of the northern end of Washington Place, a.k.a. Fish Alley or Tuck Wo gaai, looking south from Jackson toward Washington Street, c. 1890s. Photographer unknown. The Tuck Wo (德和) market for which the short street of Washington Place was named by the Chinese, occupied the southwest corner of the intersection partially seen in the foreground and to the right of the frame (at 635 Jackson Street). The entrances to gambling parlors were located along the east side of the alleyway at the northern end of Fish Alley and across from the alleyway frontage of the Tuck Wo market.
“The Butcher, Chinatown, San Francisco” undated [c. 1895- 1905]. Photograph by Arnold Genthe (from the collection of the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division). Genthe mistakenly titled this photo, as the man working over the table is fileting fish from his storefront on Washington Place, a.k.a. Fish Alley.
“Fish Alley, Chinatown. San Francisco, California” c. 1905. Postcard probably based on a photograph by Charles Weidner. The view appears to look north on Washington Place, a.k.a. Fish Alley, in old Chinatown.
The status of Washington Place as “Fish Alley” as a fish and poultry destination appeared to have endured until the earthquake and fire of 1906. The small street suffered the same fate of obliteration as every other street in old Chinatown. As Will Irwin wrote about this lost street of old Chinatown (while offering nothing substantial about the Chinese themselves): “Where is Fish Alley, that horror to the nose, that perfume to the eye?”
“Fish Alley, Chinatown” c. 1898. Drawing by A.M. Robertson (from the collection of the Bancroft Library). In this artist’s rendering the markets on Washington Place of old Chinatown, the building at no. 12 is seen in the center, the birthplace of my grandmother in the same year this drawing was published.
In Chinatown today, the sign for the old alleyway still bears the old Chinese street name from the pioneer era.
The street sign for Wentworth Place on the northwest corner of its intersection with Washington Street, June 22, 2022. Photo by Doug Chan. The sign still bears the Chinese name for the small street,德和街(canto: “duck who gaai”), the name of an old Chinatown business which occupied the southwest corner of the “T” intersection of Wentworth Place and Jackson Street from at least 1875 to 1906.
Wentworth Place, May 14, 2021. Photograph by Doug Chan. The city renamed Washington Place, a.k.a. Washington Alley or “Fish Alley,” to Wentworth Place after Chinatown was rebuilt in the wake of the 1906 earthquake and fire. Since at least 1875, Chinatown’s residents have called this small street connecting Washington to Jackson streets as “Tuck Wo Gaai” (德和街).
Recollections of the now-legendary Fish Alley of old Chinatown have faded from living memory. Many, if not most, Chinatown residents are unaware of the street name’s origin.
Former Supervisor, Board of Education commissioner, and attorney Bill Maher on Wentworth Place between the rainstorms contemplates the small street of my grandmother's birth in 1898 as a third-generation Californian, Jan. 4, 2023. Photograph by Doug Chan. Once known as Washington Place and “Fish Alley” to English speakers, the street sign still bears the old Chinese urban pioneer name of “Tuck Wo St.” (德和街; canto: "Duck Wo gaai") for today's residents of San Francisco Chinatown.
The vitality of the small street, however, not only lives on with the stories and the old images of its past, but Wentworth Place also serves as the home of the “Lion’s Den Bar and Lounge.” As the first genuine nightclub to open in almost a half-century in Chinatown, its establishment might one day be regarded as one of the events which sparked an economic revival in the neighborhood.
Fish Alley: it’s where we began; it’s where we’ll begin again.
[updated 2023-1-6]
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