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Snowflake Cookie Pattern
Hook size: G (4mm)
Worsted weight yarn in blue, white, and beige.
Fiberfill
Bottom
Ch 2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. Sl st in 1st sc to join (12)
Rnd 3: Ch 1 , *sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times. Sl st in 1st sc to join (18)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, *2sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times. Sl st in 1st sc to join (24)
Rnd 5: Ch 1 *3sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times. Sl st in 1st sc to join (30)
Rnd 6: Ch 1 *4sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times. St st in 1st sc to join. (36)
FO and weave in ends.
Top
Ch 2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2: 2 scin each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times (18)
Rnd 4: *2 sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times. (24)
Rnd 5: *3sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times (30)
Rnd 6: *4sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times. (36)
FO, leave long tail for sewing
Stack top and bottom together with RS facing out. Sew together along the edges using long tail from top. When you’re a little more than half way around, stuff before sewing the rest together.
Icing
Ch 2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times (18)
Rnd 4: *2 sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times (24)
Rnd 5: *3 sc, inc, rep from * 5 more times (30)
FO, leave long tail for sewing
Embroider snowflake on top of icing before attaching icing.
Sew icing on top of the cookie.
Source for photo and pattern: www.squirrelpicnic.com
#amigpatterns#crocheting#crochet#crochet pattern#free pattern#freepattern#free crochet pattern#amigurumi#amigurumi pattern
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Easy Double Crochet Infinity Scarf
Hook size: N (9mm) You want a loose weave, a large hook helps keep the tension loose.
Gauge: 6 rows and 12 stitches per 4 inch square.
Ch 32
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd ch from hook. Dc 30 across the ch and turn. (31 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2, dc 30, turn.
Rows 3-72: Repeat row 2.
When you get to the end of the 72 rows you need to seam the ends together to make it an infinity scarf. You can do this any way you’d like to, but I think the easiest way to do it is to slip stitch the ends together.
#beginnerpattern#beginnerpatterns#adultpatterns#crochet#crocheting#scarf#crochet scarf#pattern#free pattern#freepattern#free crochet pattern
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We’re going to do something a bit different. I bought this book and since it is crochet related, I figured I would do a little book review for it.
Yarn Bombing: The Art of Crochet and Knit Graffiti by Mandy Moore and Leanne Prain
Reviewer:Kerry Clare
Publisher: Arsenal Pulp Press
Price: $21.95
Page Count: 232
ISBN: 978-1-55152-255-5
In Yarn Bombing Mandy Moore and Leanne Prain outline the knit/crochet graffiti phenomenon and provide the readers with the tools and knowledge to get involved and get started doing yarn bombing of their own.
To “yarn bomb” is to commit knit/crochet graffiti. “Tags” include car antenna cozies, doorknob covers, and tree sweaters. Employing interviews with international bombers and chapter headings like “Why Yarn Graffiti Is The Bomb” and “How to Build Your Arsenal,” Moore and Prain present the trend as a way to “take back the knit,” rendering the domestic craft as public art.
Moore is a technical editor of the website knitty.com, and Debbie Stoller (author of the seminal guide Stitch ‘n Bitch) offers a blurb. Yarn Bombing extendsStitch ‘n Bitch’s approach to knitting and crocheting, appealing to younger people with attractive photography and irreverent patterns, reclaiming knitting and crocheting as an act that is both feminist and anarchic.
Yarn Bombing succeeds with unorthodox patterns including a knitted mushroom and tulip, knit shoes slung over telephone lines, and poster frames. The book’s infectious spirit culminates in the final chapter, which details imaginative projects such as a crocheted army tank cozy meant as an anti-war protest and the world’s longest scarf.
But the yarn bombing trend seems to emergent to necessitate an entire book. Yarn Bombing’s history of graffiti is more rudimentary than informative (”Painted graffiti appeared on railroad boxcars in North America in the 1920s. During World War II, American troops left graffiti throughout Europe…”), and very basic introductions to knitting and crochet aren’t very useful. A section devoted to gauge is out of place in a guide dent on anarchy, and proffering resources such as Flickr or Facebook is redundant.
In general, however, the book’s spirit manages to inspire. While not an essential addition to any crafting library, Yarn Bombing stands out as a fun one.
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This free crochet pattern is from Bernat Yarns. You make 12 motifs and join them together to complete this afghan.
Materials
Berella Yarn (Solids: 3.5 oz/100 g/Ombres 3 oz/85 g) in the following colors:
MC: 8 balls/Ombres: 10 balls
Contrast A: 5 balls/Ombres: 6 balls
Contrast B: 5 balls/Ombres: 6 balls
Hook size 5mm (H)
With MC, ch 5. Join with ss to form ring.
1st rnd: Ch 3. 2 dc in ring. (Ch 2. 3 dc in ring) 3 times. Ch 2. Ss in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
2nd rnd: Join A in any ch 2 sp. (Ch 3. 2 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in same sp. Ch 1. *(3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. Ch 1. Rep from * twice more. Ss to top of ch 3.
3rd rnd: Ch 3. *Join B. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. Join A. Ch 1.** 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. 2 dc in same ch 1 sp as first ch 3. Ss to top of ch 3. Turn.
4th rnd: (WS). With A, ch 3. 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. *With C, ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp.** With A, (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Ch 1. Ss to top of ch 3. Fasten off all ends. Turn.
5th rnd: (RS). Join MC to any corner ch 2 sp. (Ch 3. 2 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in same sp. *(Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 3 times. Ch 1.** (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Sl st to top of ch 3. Turn.
6th rnd: (WS). Ch 3. 2 dc in first ch 1 sp. *(Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 3 times. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. Ch 1.** 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off. Turn.
7th rnd: (RS). Join A to any corner ch 2 sp. (Ch 3. 2 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in same sp. *(Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times. Ch 1.** (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Sl st to top of ch 3. Turn.
8th rnd: (WS). Ch 3. 2 dc in first ch 1 sp. *(Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. Ch 1.** 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Ss to top of ch 3. Fasten off. Turn.
9th rnd: (RS). Join B to 6th ch 1 sp from any corner ch 2 sp. (Ch 3. 2 dc) in same sp. Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice. *Join A. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 3 times.** Join B. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next corner ch 2 sp. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Ch 1. Sl st to top of ch 3. Turn.
10th rnd: (WS). With A, ch 1. Ss in each of next 3 dc. Sl st in next ch 1 sp. Ch 3. 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. *With B, (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 3 times. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 3 times.** Join A. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) twice. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Ch 1. Ss to top of ch 3. Fasten off B sections. Turn.
11th rnd: (RS). Join MC to 6th ch 1 sp from any corner ch 2 sp. (Ch 3. 2 dc) in same sp. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 3 times. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 4 times. *With A, ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp.** Join MC, (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 4 times. Ch 1. (3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 4 times. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Ch 1. Sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off A sections. Turn.
12th rnd: (WS). With last MC end, sl st in ch 1 sp. Ch 4. (3 dc in next ch 1 sp. Ch 1) 4 times. *(3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp.** (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 10 times. Ch 1. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times. Ch 1. 2 dc in same ch 1 sp as first ch 4. Sl st to 3rd ch of ch 4. Turn.
13th rnd: (RS). Sl st in each of next 2 dc. Ss in next ch 1 sp. (Ch 3. 2 dc) in same sp. [(Ch 1. 3 dc) in next ch 1 sp] 5 times. Ch 1. *(3 dc. Ch 2. 3 dc) in next ch 2 sp.** (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 11 times. Ch 1. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. (Ch 1. 3 dc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times. Ch 1. Ss to top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Joining:
Join Motifs into 3 strips, 4 motifs long as follows:
Joining Two Motifs: With RS facing each other position sides of Motifs tog. Join MC through corresponding corner ch 2 sps. Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp. (Ch 3. 1 sc through next corresponding ch 1 sps) 12 times. Ch 3. 1 sc through next corresponding corner ch 2 sps. Fasten off.
Joining Strips of Motifs: With RS facing each other position sides of Motifs tog. Join MC through corresponding corner ch 2 sps. Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp. (Ch 3. 1 sc through next corresponding ch 1 sps) 12 times.** (Ch 3. 1 sc through next corresponding corner ch 2 sps) twice. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Ch 3. 1 sc through next corresponding corner ch 2 sps. Fasten off.
Edging: With RS facing, join MC to top right corner ch 2 sp. Ch 1. [(1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) twice] in same sp. *[1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. (1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) in next ch 1 sp] 12 times. 1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. [(1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) in next corner ch 2 sp] twice.* Rep from * to * once. [1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. (1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) in next ch 1 sp] 12 times. 1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. [(1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) twice] in next corner ch 2 sp. Rep from * to * 3 times. [1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. (1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) in next ch 1 sp] 12 times. 1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. [(1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) twice] in next corner ch 2 sp. Rep from * to * twice. [1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. (1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) in next ch 1 sp] 12 times. 1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. [(1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) twice] in next corner ch 2 sp. Rep from * to * 3 times. [1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. (1 sc. Ch 4. 1 sc) in next ch 1 sp] 12 times. 1 sc in center dc of next 3 dc. Ss to first sc. Fasten off.
Read more at http://www.favecrafts.com/Crochet-Afghans/Blue-and-White-Crochet-Afghan-Pattern#7ot7cghBLHPLo3rt.99
#afhgansquarepattern#afghanpattern#beginnerpattern#crochet#crocheting#freepattern#free pattern#free crochet pattern#beginnerpatterns
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Wonky Granny Square Tutorial
The free pattern is available here.
Tutorial is compliments of Yarnspirations!
#tutorials#tutorial#crocheting#crochet#free pattern#crochet pattern#freepattern#free crochet pattern#yarnspiration#afghansquarepattern
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How to Crochet the Crocodile Stitch by Michael Sellick of the Crochet Crowd
This tutorial is the best tutorial for the crocodile stitch that is out there. He does an awesome job explaining and showing you how to do this stitch. If you’re wanting to learn the crocodile stitch, this is the video to watch.
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Crochet Sun
Yarn weight: 1 (Super fine)
Crochet hook: D-3 (3.25mm)
Magic ring
Round 1: Ch 2. 12 dc in ring. Sl st to top of first dc {12}
Round 2: Ch 3,dc in same st. 2 dc in each stitch to end {24}
Join with sc to top of ch 3
Round 3: Each sun ray is made like this: *into next st work 1 dc 1 tr [ch 2, sc in top of tr=picot] 1 dc, 1 hdc. 1 sc in next 2 sts* Repeat from * to * until you’ve made 7 sun rays
Work the 8th the same way but finishing with just 1 sc in last st and sl st into first joining sc made.
#crocheting#crochet#freepattern#free pattern#free crochet pattern#crochet pattern#miscpattern#miscpatterns
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Lady Fingerless Gloves
Yarn weight: 4 (Medium)
Crochet hook: 4.50mm
Ch 30
Join to first ch with sl st, be very careful not to twist the chain
Row 1: Ch 2. Hdc in each ch around. Join with sl st to second ch of last st
Row 2-6: Ch 2. Hdc in ech st around. Join with sl st to second ch of last st
(If you have larger hands you can easily make the palm/hand space longer by adding a few more rows.)
Row 7: Ch 2. Hdc in next 9 sts. Ch 4, sk next 4 sts. Hdc in rem sts. Join with sl st to second ch of last st
Row: 8-15: Ch 2. Hdc in each st around. Join with sl st in second ch of last st
If you want gloves to be longer, add more rows
Row 16: Turn so wrong side is facing you.Ch 3. Dc in first st. Sl st in next st. Yarn over insert hook through next st, yarn over again, pull back through the stitch, you have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over insert hook in same stitch. Yarn over and pull the loop back through the stitch. 4 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all of them. Sl st n next st. Continue to do this until you reach the end. Fasten off
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Mary Jane Slippers
Yarn weight: 4 (Medium). Make sure you use cotton yarn
Crochet hook: H-8 (5mm)
These slippers will fit US size 6.5-9. If your feet are on the larger end of things you can try using a larger hook size
Toe cap
The toe cap is worked in one continuous spiral.
Ch 6
Round 1: Dc into second ch from hook, dc into next 3 ch, 3 dc into last ch, then continue dc-ing up the other side as follows: dc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch. {12}
Round 2: Dc in each of next 5 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc into next 5 sts, 3 dc in next st {16}
Round 3: Dc in each of next 6 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc into next st, dc into next st {20}
Round 4: Dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc into next 9 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts {24}
Round 5: Dc in each st around {24}
Round 6: Dc in each st around {24}
Sole
Row 1: dc in first 8 sts of rnd 6. Mark first and last st in row, and 2 sts of tope cap on either side of the row. Ch 1 turn {8}
Row 2: Dc in each st around. Ch 1 turn {8}
Row 3-13: As row 2
Row 14: 2 dc n first st,dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in last st Ch 1 turn {10}
Row 15: Dc in each st. Ch 1 turn {10}
Row 16-19: A row 15
Row 20: 2 dc in first st, dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in last st. Ch 1 turn {12}
Row 21: Dc in each st. Ch 1 turn {12}
Row 22-23: As row 21
Row 24: Dc in first 2 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 turn {10}
Row 25: Dc in first 2 sts, sc2tog, dc n next 2 sts, sc2tog, dc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 turn {8}
Row 26: Dc in first 2 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in last 2 sts ch 1 turn {6}
Row 27: Dc in first st, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in last st {4} Do not turn. with cc mark firstand last sts n row 26 and 27
Upper
Round 1: withbottom sole facing you, dc in each row end {26} dc in each st on toe cap {17} dc up the row ends on other side {26} and dc in the 4 sts on the back {73} move markers as you crochet so that the ends of each side, toe cap and back, are marked
Round 2: Repeat round 1
In rounds 3-6 you’ll decrease at both ends of each side and at each side of the toe cap by double crocheting together the first two and last two stitches of both sides and the toe cap as follows:
Round 3: dc2tog, dc in next 22 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 13 sts, dc 2 tog, dc2tog, dc in next 22 sts, dc2tog, dc last 4 sts {67}
Round 4: dc2tog, dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog, sc2tog, dc in next 11 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 4 sts {61}
Round 5: dc2tog, dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 9 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 4 sts {55}
Round 6: dc2tog, dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 7 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 3 sts, sl st into last st. Fasten off
Strap
With color for trim ch 5, sl st into furthest ch from hook (this will be the button hole. If buttons have a diameter more than 1.5cm you may need to increase size of loop). Ch 16
Left slipper
Round 7: Join ch to left slipper on the right side in the 8th st from the front right corner. You’ll then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3-6 as follows: dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog, dc into 4 sts along back of slipper, dc2tog dc into next 14 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts. Dc up one side of the chain you made {16}, dc into each chain in the loop {5} and dc back down the other side of ch {16}
Right slipper
Round 7: Join chain to right slipper on the left side in the 8th stitch from the front left corner. You will then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3 – 6 as follows: dc into next 6 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next five stitches (across toe-cap), dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 14 stitches, dc2tog, dc into 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 8 stitches (the last dc goes into the same stitch that you joined the chain to the slipper). Then dc up one side of the chain you made (16 stitches), dc into each chain in the loop (5 stitches), and dc back down the other side of the chain (16 stitches).
Both slippers
Round 8: dc into each dc along top of slipper until you come back to strap. Fasten off and weave in ends
#crocheting#crochet#crochet pattern#free pattern#pattern#freepattern#slippers#crochet slippers#footwearpattern
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Tote Bag
Yarn weight: 4 (Medium). Make sure it’s cotton
Ch 40
Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and 1 sc in each ch. Don’t turn the work in the usual way. Ch 3, then, keeping your work facing you, turn it clockwise through 180 degrees and make 39 sc in the bottom st of your ch sts. Ch 3 then join with sl st to the first sc you made, this point marks the start of the next round, so place your stitch market here
Round 2: Sc 39, 3 sc in ch 3 sp; sc 39, 3 sc in ch 3 sp {84} Don’t join the round, just keep going in a spiral
Round 3: Sc 39, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc; sc 39, make 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts {90}
Round 4:Sc 39 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * twice. Sc 39 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * twice {96}
Round 5: Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc next 2 sc. Repeat from * twice. Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * twice {102}
Round 6: Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc. Repeat from * twice. Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc. Repeat from * twice. {108}
Round 7: Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc. Repeat from * twice. Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc. Repeat from * twice. {114}
Round 8: Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc. Repeat from * twice. Sc 39 *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc. Repeat from * twice {120}
Round 9: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 6 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 6 sc, repeat twice from * {126}
Round 10: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 7 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 7 sc, repeat twice from * {132}
Round 11: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 8 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 8 sc, repeat twice from * {138}
Round 12: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 9 sc, repeat twice from * {144}
Round 13: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 10 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 10 sc, repeat twice from * {150}
Round 14: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 11 sc, repeat twice from * {156}
Round 15: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, repeat twice from * {162}
Round 16: sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 13 sc, repeat twice from *; sc 39, *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 13 sc, repeat twice from * {168}
Now to start the lacy pattern. From now on you’ll be joining each round rather than working in a spiral.
Round 17: Ch 2, make 1 dc in each sc around. Join with ss.
Round 18: Join colour B and make sc in same place as ss, *ch3, sk 2 dc, 2 dc cluster in next dc, ch 3, sk 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, repeat from * all round until you are back at the start where you join final 3 ch to top of 1st sc with ss.
Round 19: Join colour C, ch 5, *sc in top of 2 dc tog, ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2, repeat from * all round, until you are back to the start, where you join with ss to ch 3 of the ch 5 that started this round.
Round 20: Still with colour C, ch 3, *2 dc in 2 ch sp, 1 dc in next sc, 2dc in 2 ch sp, 1 dc in next dc, repeat this pattern from the * all the way round until you are back to the start, join with ss to top of first ch 3.
Round 21: Join colour B and make sc in same place as ss, *ch3, sk 2 dc, 2 dc cluster in next dc, ch 3, sk 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, repeat from * all round until you are back at the start where you join final 3 ch to top of 1st sc with ss.
Round 22: Join colour A, ch 5, *sc in top of 2 dc tog, ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2, repeat from * all round, until you are back to the start, where you join with ss to ch 3 of the ch 5 that started this round.
Round 23: Still with colour A, ch 3, *2 dc in 2 ch sp, 1 dc in next sc, 2dc in 2 ch sp, 1 dc in next dc, repeat this pattern from the * all the way round until you are back to the start, join with ss to top of first ch 3.
Repeat the pattern of round 18-23, until you reach the end of row 58, which is the final row of the lacy patter.
Round 59: This would normally be a Round 23 style row, but instead of the usual pattern, continuing with colour A, ch 1, 2 sc in 2 ch sp (place marker in 1st of these 2 sc to mark the beginning of the round), sk sc, 2 sc in s ch sp, sk 1 dc, then continue all round and on to round 60 without joining the round and remembering to move your marker.
Round 60-63: sc in each sc around
Now you’ll be doing the shoulder strap.
Row 64: Sc 26. Ch 1
Row 65: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 20, ch 1
Row 66: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 15, ch 1 {19}
Row 67: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 14, ch 1 {18}
Row 68: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 13, ch 1 {17}
Row 69: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, ch 12, ch 1 {16}
Row 70: Turn sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 11, ch 1 {15}
Row 71: Turn sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 10, ch 1 {14}
Row 72: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 9 ch 1 {13}
Row 73: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 8, ch 1 {12}
Row 74: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 7, ch 1 {11}
Row 75: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 3, dec 1 sc over next 2 sc, sc 6, ch 1 {10}
Row 76: Turn, sk 1 ch, sc 10, ch 1.
Row 77-85: Repeat row 76
Row 86-90: Repeat row 76 using color B
Row 91-95: Repeat row 76 using color C
Row 96-111: Repeat row 76 using color A
Row 111-118: Repeat row 76 using color C
Row 119-122: Repeat row 76 using color B
Row 123-138: Repeat row 76 using color A
Row 139-143: Repeat row 76 using color C
Row 144-148: Repeat row 76 using color B
Row 149-158: Repeat row 76 using color A
Row 159: Still using color A, turn, sk1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 6 sc, ch 1 {11}
Row 160: Turn, sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 7 sc, ch 1 {12}
Row 161: Turn, sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 8 sc, ch 1 {13}
Row 162: Turn, sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 9 sc ch 1 {14}
Row 163: Turn, sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 10 sc, ch 1 {15}
Row 164: Turn sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 11 sc, ch 1 {16}
Row 165: Turn, sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. 12 sc, ch 1 {17}
Row 166: Turn, sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 13 sc, ch 1 {18}
Row 167: Turn, sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 14 sc, ch 1 {19}
Row 168: Turn sk 1 ch, 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 15 sc {20}
Fasten off. Leaving tail to stitch shoulder strap to the other side of the bag using a yarn needle.
#crochet pattern#crochet#crocheting#pattern#free pattern#freepattern#free crochet pattern#cotton#bagspursespattern#bagpursespattern#bagpursepattern
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Basic Baby Hat (3-6 months)
Yarn weight: Sport weight (3)
Crochet hook: G-6 (4mm)
Magic ring, ch 2. Begin rnd 1 in second ch from hook
Round 1: 12 hdc in magic ring. Pull titch.
Place stitch marker in first stitch and move up at the end of each round
Round 2: 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st *1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from* to end of round {18}
Round 3: 1 hdc in nest 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st *1 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * to end of round {24}
Round 4: 1 hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st *1 hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * to end of round {30}
Round 5: 1 hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st *1 hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * to the end of round {36}
Round 6: 1 hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc n next st *1 hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * to end of round. {42}
Round 7: 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st *1 hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * to end of round. {48}
Round 8: 1 hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st *1 hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * to end of round. {54}
Round 9: 1 hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st. *1 hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st. Repeat from * to end of round {60}
Round 10-25: Sc in each stitch around {60}
Fasten off and weave in ends
#crocheting#crochet#crochet pattern#free pattern#freepattern#free crochet pattern#babytoddlerpattern#babytoddlerpatterns
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andala Rug
Yarn: T-shirt yarn.
Crochet hook: Any size suitable for the t-shirt yarn
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3, then crochet 11 dc in the ring. Pull ring closed. Join with sl st in third ch of the first ch 3.
Round 2: Ch 3. Work another dc in the same st, then work 2 dc in each st around. Join with sl st in the top of beginning ch 3.
Round 3: Ch 3. Work 2 dc in next st, *1 dc, 2 dc* around. Join with sl st to the top of starting ch 3.
Round 4: Ch 3. Ch 2, sk a st, then *1 dc, ch 2, sk 1 st* around. Join with sl st in top of ch 3 starting chain
Round 5: Ch 3. Work 2 dc in the ch 2 sp. Work 1 dc in underlying dc, *inc, 1 dc in dc* around. Join with sl st in top of starting ch 3
Round 6: Change colour. Ch 3. Work 1 dc in next st, work 2 dc in the next st, then *2 dc, inc* around. Join with sl st to top ch of starting ch 3.
Round 7: Ch 3. Ch 2, sk a st, *1 dc, ch 2, sk 1 st* around. Join with sl st in top of starting ch 3
Round 8: Ch 3. Work 2 dc in ch 2 sp, work a dc in underlying dc, then *1 dc in dc* around. Join with sl st in the top ch of starting ch 3
Round 9: Change colour. Ch 3. Work 1 dc in next st, then 1 dc n each st around. Join with sl st in top ch of starting ch 3
Round 10: Ch 3. Ch 2, sk a st, then *1 dc, ch 2, sk 1 st* around. Join with sl st to top ch of beginning ch 3.
Round 11: Ch 3. 1 dc in ch 2 sp, work 1 dc in underlying dc. Work 2 dc in ch 2 sp then *1 dc in dc, 1 dc in ch 2 sp, 1 dc in dc, inc* around. join with sl st in top ch of starting ch 3
Round 12: Change colour. Ch 3. Dc around. Sl st in top ch of beginning ch 3
Round 13: Ch 3. Ch 2, sk a st. *1 dc, ch 2, sk 1 st* around. Join with sl st to top ch in beginning ch 3
Round 14-18: Continue alternating these rounds as you’ve been doing
Round 18: Ch 1. Work a sc in same st, sk 2 sts, work 6 dc in next st, sk 2 sts. *1 sc, sk 2 sts, 6 dc, sk 2 sts* around. Join with sl st to the first sc of the round. Fasten off
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Daisy Dishcloth
Yarn weight: 4 (Medium)
Crochet hook: H-8 (5mm)
Make sure you use cotton yarn
With MC ch 2
Round 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to first sc
Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc {12}
Round 3: Ch 1 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc {18}
Round 4: With color B, ch 1 *1 sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to first sc {24}
Round 5: With MC, ch 1. Working in back loop only of each sc, 1 sc in same sc as last sl st. 1 sc in next sc. *1 hdc in next sc. 3 dc in next sc. Ch 1. 3 dc in next sc. 1 hdc in next sc. 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc. Rep from* 3 more times, omitting 1 sc in each of last 2 sc at end of last rep. Join with sl st to first sc
Round 6: Ch 3. 1 dc in each of next 5 sts. *(2 dc. Ch 2. 2 dc) in next corner ch 1 sp. 1 dc in each of the next 10 sts. Rep from * around, ending last rep with 1 dc in each of the last 4 sts. Join with sl st to top of chain 3
Round 7: Ch 3. 1 dc in each of next 3 ds. *( Ch 1. Miss next dc. 1 dc in next dc) twice. Ch 1 (1 dc. Ch 2. 1 dc) in next corner ch 2 sp. Ch 1 (1 dc in next dc. Ch 1. Miss next dc) twice. 1 dc in each of next 6 dc. Rep from * around ending last rep with 1 dc in each of last 2 dc. Join with sl st to top of ch 3
Round 8: Ch 3.1 dc i each of next 3 dc. *(Ch 1. 1 dc in next dc) 3 times.Ch 1 (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in next corner ch 2 sp. (Ch 1, 1 dc in next dc) 3 times. Ch 1. 1 dc in each of next 6 dc. Rep from * around, ending last rep with 1 dc in each last 2 dc.Join with sl st to top of ch 3
Round 9: Ch 3. 1 dc in each of next 3 dc *(Ch 1. 1 dc in next dc) 4 times. Ch 1 (1 dc. Ch 2.1 dc) in next corner ch 2 sp. (Ch 1. 1 dc in next dc) 4 times. Ch 1. 1 dc in each of next 6 dc. Rep from * around, ending last rep with 1 dc in each of last 2 dc. Join with sl st to top of ch 3
Round 10-12: Cont in same manner, working 1 more rep of (ch 1. 1 dc in next dc) before and after each ch 2 sp. Fasten off
Petals
Round 1: With RS facing, join with sl st in any rem loop of 4th rnd. Ch 1. 1 dc in same sp. 1 sc in each of next 4 loops. *2 sc in next loop. 1 sc in each of next 5 loops. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc {28}
Round 2: *Ch 10. 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 dc in each of next 4 ch. 1 tr in each of next 3 ch. Miss next sc. Sl st in next sc. Rep from * around, ending with sl st in fist sc. 7 petals
Round 3: Working behind last rnd, sl st in each of next 2 sc. *Ch 10. 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 dc in each of next 4ch. 1 tr in each of next 3 ch. Miss next 3 sc of 1st rnd. Sl st in next sc. Rep from * around, ending with sl st in first sc. 7 petals. Fasten off
#crochet#crocheting#crochet pattern#freepattern#free pattern#free crochet pattern#cotton#cottonpattern#cottonpatterns
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Sunflower Granny Square
Crochet hook: I-9 (5.5mm)
Yarn weight: 4 (Medium)
Note: This is crocheted continually from flower to the square bed. Use any hook size you want for a bigger or smaller square, just choose a yarn type that matches.
Flower
Start with brown
Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc into ring, total 12 dc, sl st into first st to join
Round 2: ch 3, 1 dc into same st, inc dc into every st around, total 24 sts, sl st into first st to join
Round 3: Change to yellow yarn, crochet all sts into front loops only *ch 5, sl into 2nd ch from hook, sc into next ch, 2 hdc across, sl into next st* across. repeat * to * 24 times, you’ll have a total of 24 petals. Fasten off
Square bed
Round 1: work into back loop behind the flower. Use green. Join yarn into any back loop st, ch 4 (counts as first tr), 2 dc into same st, ch 1 , sk 1 st, 3 dc into next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 2 dc into next st, tr n same st, ch 3, skip 1 st *ch 4 into next st, 2 dc into same st, ch 1, skip 1 st, 3 dc into next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 2 dc into next st, tr into same st, ch 3, sk 1 st* repeat * to * 3 times
Round 2: ch 3 *(3 dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1) 2 times, 3 dc into next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, ch 1* repeat * to * 3 times. (3 dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1) 2 times. 3 dc into next ch 3 sp, ch 3, 2 dc into same loop, sl into first st to join
Round 3: change to dark green. Ch 3, 2 dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1 (3 dc into next ch 1 sp, ch 1) 2 times.3 dc into next ch 3 space, ch 3, 3 dc into same sp * (ch 1, 3 dc into next ch 1 sp) 3 times, ch 1 , 3 dc into next ch3 sp, ch 3, 3 dc into same space* repeat 3 times, ch 1, sl into first st to join
Fasten off and weave in ends
#crocheting#crochet#granny square#afghan square#pattern#crochet pattern#free pattern#freepattern#free crochet pattern#afghansquarepattern
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Amigurumi Apple
Finished size is about 3 inches wide and 3 inches tall (including the stem)
Crochet hook: 2.5mm
Yarn in fingering/baby weight in colors red, brown, and green. Along with small amount of pink and orange for face details
Stem
Use brown, double strand
Slip knot, ch 9
Round 1: sc in second ch from hook, sl st in next 7 sts
Fasten off and leave long tail for sewing
Apple
Use red
Slip knot, ch 2
Round 1: sc 8 in second ch from hook
Round 2: sc around {8}
Round 3: *inc, sc in next st, repeat * 4 times {12}
Round 4: sc around {12}
Round 5: *inc, sc in next st, repeat * 6 times {18}
Round 6: *sc in next 2 sts, inc, repeat * 6 times {24}
Round 7: sc n next st *inc sc in next 3 sts, repeat * 5 times, inc, sc in next 2 sts {30}
Round 8: *sc in next 4 sts, inc, repeat * 6 times {36}
Round 9: sc in next 2 sts *inc, sc in next 5 sts, repeat * 5 times, inc, sc in next 3 sts {42}
Round 10: sc in next 4 sts, *inc, sc in next 6 sts, repeat * 5 times, inc, sc in next 2 sts {48}
Round 11: *inc, sc in next 7 sts, repeat * 6 times {54}
Round 12: sc in next 4 sts, *inc, sc in next 8 sts, repeat * 5 times, inc, sc in next 4 sts {60}
Round 13-17: sc around {60}
Round 18: *inv dec, sc in next 13 sts, repeat * 4 times {56}
Round 19: sc around {56}
Round 20: *inv dec, sc in next 12 sts, repeat * 4 times {52}
Round 21: sc around {52}
Round 22: *inv dec, sc in next 11 sts, repeat * 4 times {48}
Round 23: sc around {48}
Round 24: *inv dec, sc in next 10 sts, repeat * 4 times {44}
Round 25: *inv dec, sc in next 9 sts, repeat * 4 times {40}
Round 26: *inv dec, sc in next 8 sts, repeat * 4 times {36}
Round 27: *inv dec, sc in next 4 sts, repeat * 6 times {30}
Round 28: sc in next 2 sts, *inv dec, sc in next 3 sts, repeat * 5 times, inv dec, sc in next st {24}
Attach stem and leaf
Stuff
Round 29: *inv dec, sc in next 2 sts, repeat * 6 times {18}
Round 30: sc around {18}
Round 31: inv dec in next 18 sts {9}
Assembly
Sew with tapestry needle to close up the bottom opening of the apple
Insert needle from center bottom to top. Insert needle back to the apple from center top but not the same place where the needle came out, back to the bottom. Pull to create indentation of the top and bottom center of the apple
Knot the yarn, hide the knot and yarn inside the apple
Embroider on the mouth, cheeks, and sew on the eyes
Note: You can use different yarn weight to create various sizes of apples
#crocheting#amigpatterns#amigurumi#amigurumipattern#pattern#crochet pattern#free pattern#free crochet pattern#freepattern
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Ocean Waves Afghan Pattern
Designed by Marianne Forrestal
Yarn in photo: Red Heart Super Saver in Soft Navy, Windsor Blue, Country Blue, Light Periwinkle, and Frosty Green.
Crochet hook: I-9 (5.5mm)
Yarn weight: 4 (Medium)
With color A, ch 139
Row 1: Beginning in 4th ch from hook, [dc2tog] 3 times, 3 dc in the next 3 ch *[dc2tog] 6 times, 3 dc in next 3 ch; repeat from * 7 more times, [dc2tog] 3 times, dc n last ch – 9 “waves”.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), turn, [dc2tog] 3 times, 3 dc in next 3 sts, *[dc2tog] 6 times, 3 dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * 7 more times, [dc2tog] 3 times, dc in top of turning ch-3. Fasten off
Row 3: Turn, join color B with sl st in first st, ch 3, working in back loops only, [dc2tog] 3 times, 3 dc in next 3 sts, *[dc2tog] 6 times, 3 dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * 7 more times, [dc2tog] 3 times. Working in both loops, dc in the top of turning ch 3
Row 4: Using B, and working on both loops, repeat row 2. Fasten off
Row 5: Using color C, repeat row 3.
Row 6: Continuing with C, and working in both loops, repeat row 2. Fasten off.
Row 7: Using color D, repeat row 3.
Row 8: Continuing with D, and working in both loops, repeat row 2. Fasten off
Row 9: Using color E, repeat row 3.
Row 10: Continuing with E and working in both loops, repeat row 2. Fasten off.
Row 11: Using A, repeat row 3.
Row 12: Continuing with A and working in both loops repeat row 2. Fasten off.
Rows 13-80: Repeat rows 3-12 six times, then repeat rows 3-10 once more.
*Photo from redheart.com*
#afghanpattern#crochet pattern#crocheting#crochet#free pattern#freepattern#freecrochetpattern#afghan
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General Crochet Terminology
This is the abbreviations of things you’re going to see when reading a pattern and what those abbreviations mean. These are very good things to remember if you want to begin crocheting. You’ll use these all the time.
**: Repeat instructions between asterisks.
approx: Approximately
beg: Begin/Beginning
bet: Between
CC: Contrasting Color
cont: Continue
MC: Main color
lp/lp’s: Loop/Loops
prev: Previous
rem: Remaining
rep: Repeat
RS: Right side
sk: Skip
sp: Space
st/st’s: Stitch/Stitches
t: Turn
tog: Together
WS: Wrong side
yo(h): Yarn over (hook)
blo: Back loops only
bp: Back post
ch-sp: Chain space
dec: Decrease
flo: Front loops only
fp: Front post
inc: Increase
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