lapetitejessica

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The Summer Garden, Saint Petersburg (by Fisss)

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Images of Paris à la Newyorker

thank you to sanjbound for the article, these images are priceless.

http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/culture/2013/12/if-the-new-yorker-were-set-in-paris.html?mobify=0#slide_ss_0=3

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Homecoming

I'm typing this not from the Starbucks at Saint Michel, nor from my little room in La Fondation, nor from the 6th floor bibliothèque at ISEP on that dear little Rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs.

I'm typing this from my bed, in my room, in my home, in Orange County, California. With my little puppy curled up in slumber by my feet.

The last week of Paris went by in a daze.  I turned in all of my papers, took my last final, packed my things, said goodbye to friends, went out for celebratory meals and drinks. 

Now that I'm back in my normal at-home routine, the entire things seems like one very long dream.

Today, when I drove my car to the grocery store, I thought of my weekly walks (typically in the pouring rain) to the Franprix down Boulevard Jourdan.  I thought about the ads in French that played as I shopped, of the long line because only one cash register was ever open.  Today, when the lady efficiently bagged my food for me, smiled at my brother, and told me to have a lovely day, I felt.. shocked.  Amazed. 

At the cafeteria-style restaurant I went to tonight, a new one which just opened in our area,  I filled my plate with kale, brocollini, blueberries, the works.  I thought to myself, "god bless california."  There was not a baguette to be found, nor a hunk of smelly cheese nor anything remotely French.  Phew.

The metro commutes.  The patisseries.  The endless cafés on every street boasting "ménus" and "formules."  The men walking across the bridges and down the sidewalks with baguettes under their arms.  The heavy euro coins rattling in my pocket.  The navigo pass hardly ever leaving the palm of my hand.  The sound of French conversation on every corner, on every pocket of the métro, in every shop.  The women with their tall black silhouettes and their scarves and their high heeled boots.  The eiffel tower rising into view.  The cobblestones.   All of it is gone.  And in relation to where I am now, on the other side of the world (but seeminly on another planet), Paris feels like something unreal.

The sun is shining here in Orange County.  The streets of suburbia are quiet, with the exception of gardeners next door and cars seldomnly gliding into garages. I drove my car, and realized how PRIVATE my method of transportation is here compared to the ever-crowded, ever-smelly RER and métro.  The lady who rang up our order at the restaurant smiled and told us to enjoy our meal.  The man who dished out my food asked me how my day went. 

Gertrude Stein said, "It is not what France gave you but what it did not take from you that was important."

Well, France gave me a heck of a lot.  Language skills, cultural understanding (as much of my own cultural as of Paris's), a sense of independence, a sense of confidence- a confidence that developed out of pure NEED, because you can't walk down the streets of Paris without a smug look which I like to call "resting bitch face."  Basically, your facial expression should obviously signify: "I know what I'm doing, I'm going somewhere important, and I'm doing it in heels. Don't you get in my way."

But in response to Gertrude Stein- France, or Paris, i should say, didn't take much from me at all.  Maybe my romantic notion of being "destined to live in Europe," or of being "meant to be Parisian."  Maybe my idea of Europe as a wonderland of history and culture and perfection--- because contrary to my previous system of belief, Europe is actually a real place too where people have their problems, where life isn't perfect, where feelings like loneliness and sadness CAN in fact emerge.  But I'm home now, and everything I left was here waiting for me upon my return: my family, my home, my things, my sense of self.  I feel more like myself here at home.  I look at all of my time in Paris with somewhat of a different light.  I appreciate it differently.  More, probably.

We were talking at the Great Canadian Pub my last night in Paris... one of my friends asked, "Overall, was your experience in Paris good or bad?" I thought of all the times I complained, all of the times Paris really got me down.  But then I thought of all the other things- the education, the traveling, the experience. "It was overall a positive experience.  I don't regret a single thing," I responded.  But to follow it up, "I wouldn't do it again."

I love home.  There's no place like it.  There's nothing like feeling comfortable and loved.  There's nothing like seeing the sun at all day-time hours. 

Homecoming feels so wonderfully good.

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crêpes off of rue mouffetard

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Une journée à Versailles

On Friday, my Plafonds de Paris cours "Ceilings of Paris," en anglais, had an excursion to Versailles to study the ceilings of Charles Le Brun.  Here are some snapshots of the visit.

My last trip to Versailles was when I was about 10, with my dad and my cousin.  My most vivid memories are of the giant pain-au-chocolate that we ate on the RER on the way there- the "giant panno" is still a part of family folklore- and the never ending gardens.  I was glad to return- I would have taken the trip earlier, but I knew I'd be coming for class, and figured once to the château would be enough.  It's actually quite an easy journey to Versailles from Paris- just a straight shot from the RER C, which has stops in Saint-Michel and Solferino (Musée d'Orsay!).

We got there a bit early, to explore the town, which is adorable and wonderful even if you completely cut out the château.

We walked around and admired the quaint streets and shops.

Café Juliette, for my sister!

Royal's Dog Toilettes, for les chiens royaux de Versailles! All the spoiled puppies get groomed here.  We need one in Orange County for Cinnamon.

We even found the marché of Versailles and bought abundant amounts of fresh veggies to snack on.

Then, of course, came the château itself.

I look kind of like an olive green marshmallow in these pictures because it was FREEZING.  The wind chill factor was intense- I was all bundled up, but still my hands and even teeth went numb!

En suivant: des photos des jardins de Versailles

Our professor told us that it's been theorized that every grand addition to the royal jardins of Versailles are linked to a specific party.  Basically, "party next thursday? cool, let's build a massive pond and a gazebo and a forest"

Basically, this place is gorgeous and I cannot imagine having these gardins at my disposal.  Marie Antoinette was a lucky gal.  Until she got her head chopped off.

Then there's the interior of the château:

And the royal bedrooms, which are mock-ups of the real thing, but still, I like the look of it:

Then there's the famous hall of mirrors:

And the sunset out the galerie window:

All in all, Versailles, you're a breathtaker.

But my neck will never be the same from staring at your ceilings for an unrelenting 3 hours.

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la vie parisienne

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Thanksgiving prompts the question that expatriates everywhere face: Shouldn't I be going home?

You should read this article.  But if you don't, here are my highlights:

"No matter how familiar Paris becomes, something always reminds me that I don’t belong."

"During conversations in French, I often have the sensation that someone is hitting my head. When surrounded by Parisians, I feel 40 percent fatter, and half as funny."

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L'hiver à Paris- Winter in Paris

Sorry I haven't posted in a while.  There are several reasons for my disappearance from Tumblr land:

-I've been writing 3 10-20 page research papers

-Paris has gotten freezing, so I don't go outside as much, which means I have less pretty things to take pictures of

-I've been in kind of a funk.  I'm going to blame it on SAD, aka Seasonal Affective Disorder, aka Winter Depression, aka i-haven't-seen-the-sun-in-weeks-and-my-body-is-sad-about-that.  It's a real thing. Just wikipedia it. 

BUT today, despite it being a frisky 40 degrees (I'm Orange-County-ian, this is like Antartica over here), the sun came out and shone down on Paris, France.  Granted, it didn't make things any warmer, but it was just nice to see something that wasn't a gray sky.

I had class at the Louvre today, in the studio where they do painting/general art restoration.  We watched as women skraped off residue from a piece of art that actually has not been seen since the 19th century.  It was an interesting séance.  I've never seen our professor so excited- she basically laughed maniacally when she saw them discover a sketch of a hand.

People and art...

After class, I walked from the Louvre to les Jardins des Tuileries to Place de la Concorde.  Paris was beautiful in its wintery glory.

And that's when I found heaven.

The happiest place in all of Paris.

Le Marché du Noël aux Champs Elysées.

The Champs is a long street- everyone knows this. It stretches from l'Arc du Triomphe all the way to Place de la Concorde.  And during Christmas, the ENTIRE thing is lined with booths selling winter-related items.

Vin chaud. Chocolate chaud. Cidre chaud.

Gaufres. Crépes.  Donuts.  Bretzels.

Cadeaux- bijoux, savons, écharpes.

And Christmas music was playing partout.

Here are some pictures, so you can live vicariously through through me and the pleasure I took from this Marché:

Guys, I'm obsessed with christmas.

Anyways.  After this, I went to ISEP, got some work done, found a store on Rue Vavin that sells Moleskine notebooks (outrageously overpriced, but I needed a new notebook and obviously only Moleskine will do) and then with bated breath took the métro to Auber, where I met my independent study tutor for my final presention.  I gave him my final paper (19 pages! and all in French!) and proceded with my "soutenance." Then he asked me about a million questions, and because I'm a Shakespeare nerd, I answered them sans aucun problème!  When I left the café (yes, in France, you give final presentations in cafés, apparently), I felt like a huge weight had been lifted off mes épaules.

Then my prof texted me saying that I forgot my scarf at the café. 

It was itchy anyways.  Good riddance.

Happy beginning of December, my lovelies!

Oh, and I'm back a week from tomorrow :)

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Fountain at Place de la Concorde by Radiopaedia on Flickr.

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Things I Learned Today in Paris

1. There is a whole social group of Parisian adults who spend their lives dedicated to studying ceilings, and they all know each other and like to talk about Fleur and Zephyr and things like that.

2. The Boulevard Saint-Michel Starbucks has semi-reliable internet and really comfy chairs (if you get lucky enough to find one that's not already occupied by an American tourist)

3. Even if you spent the whole past two weeks writing Part One of your research paper, and Even if your professor is aware that you only have 2 years of experience with the language, the professor will STILL demand more and better.

4. Sometimes the Indian sweets you bought from Gare du Nord combined with Project Free TV are the best parts of your day. Even when you live in Paris, the city of light and "love".

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Never pee in the bushes in front of your friend’s host family’s apartment.  Even if their toilet is out of order. 

French professors will be Offended if you mispell a word or use the wrong gender.  American professors would just roll their eyes and mark you down. French professors will be Offended.

Things I Learned Today in Paris

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The Seine and the sun ✕ Giordano Gobbo

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Bar-Hopping- Jessica's Guide to a Saturday night in the Latin Quarter

1. Bar 10

http://10bar.pagesperso-orange.fr/

A sangria bar!  Two stories of the cutest, most intimate decor. 14 euro pitchers of Sangria. 

2. L'Urgence

http://www.urgencebar.com/

This was my favorite of the places we went to.  The theme is medical emergencies- when you walk in, you see neon-illuminated X-rays in every color.  The drinks are all named after a different medical procedure, and they are served in baby bottles.  If you want something that tastes like pure candy, order the Lipposuction- it's bright blue and super tasty.  The drinks come served with freeze-dried candy things.  I was on a complete sugar high after an hour in this place.  They also serve a set of 4 shots in bright colors in test tubes!!!

3. Le zéro de conduite

http://www.zerodeconduite.fr/

If you feel like revisiting your childhood, this is the place to be.  They ALSO serve drinks in baby bottles (I don't know if this is just a Paris thing, or what it is, but it seems to be quite popular in many of the bars in this city) but they are all named off of characters in Disney movies!  To order, you have to draw the character on a little white board that they provide. Sanj and I ordered the shrek to share. If you ask, they'll give you child board/card games to play with and lollipops to suck on!

4. Prescription Cocktail Club

http://www.prescriptioncocktailclub.com/

Definitely the classiest bar of the bunch... this is a speak-easy themed bar which, when we were there, was SWIMMING with well-dressed drunk people.  The waiters are all attractive and dressed in 20s gear, and the drink menu is stunning.  However, be warned: if you order the mint julep, its overwhelmingly high alcohol content MAY kill you... I'm pretty sure it was a cup of pure liquor with a sprig of mint on top.

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Sitting in a window-seat in the Starbucks on Boulevard Saint Michel, writing an essay on Hamlet at la Comédie Française.  Sipping a soy latté.  One month til homecoming.  Things are ok.

I went to Shakespeare and Co before this, another thing to cross off my bucket list!

How Blvd Saint-Michel USED to look:

How it looks today:

Paris through the ages- always lovely, but sometimes I wish my life was Owen Wilson's in Midnight in Paris.

Ok I'm going to stop procrastinating now and go back to slaving away on this paper.

Au revoir!

[lapetitejessica]

Jeudi à Paris, Quand il n'arrête jamais à pleuvoir!

10:00 : Wake up, trip through room trying to get ready, take the RER to Line 4 to school. In a happy mood because there's something really wonderful about reading the morning newspaper (in French, bien sûr!) during one's morning transit.  I like mornings in Paris.  Everyone is dressed for work, ready to go, on the move.  I walk VERY quickly through the métros.  Seriously, don't get in my way.  I will run you over.

11:00: Cours de française!  We discuss the film, have a mini-debate over "les lois et interdictions contre la prostitution en France" and listen to a presentation on "l'art disparu" en France- the art that was lost or stolen during the Holocaust.

12:30: Back to the Louvre for my Ceilings of Paris class! This time, we spent the entire session in la Gallerie d'Apollon.  It's an endlessly impressive room, with lots of mythological significance- you've got the zodiac signs, the months, the seasons, the muses... very complete.

15:00 Met Sanj at la Musée d'Orsay, which has been on my bucket list since I got here.  This is where France has its Impressionist collection.  BUT we started off in the temporary exhibit... which was all about Naked Men in Art History. Ooooh yeah.

We basically spent an hour wandering through rooms looking at naked guys.  A well spent afternoon, I'd say. We weren't allowed to take pictures, but I snuck one because I'm a badass:

yup.  so there's that.

The museum was beautiful, but what was maybe even prettier was the view outside the window on the top floor:

Oh Paris.  You're a heart breaker.

We ended our time at Musée d'Orsay by walking through the collections of Monet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, etc.  All the goodies.  SO beautiful, but at this point I was museum-ed out.  I did buy some posters for my room as a petit souvenir!

Sanj and I were tired and hungry, so we wandered around for FOREVER, complaining about how difficult it is to find cheap healthy food in Paris.  Where is the Whole Foods when you need it?  I swear, when I step foot in a Trader Joes for the first time this winter break, I may just kiss the ground and break out into tears. 

Since healthy food just didn't seem to be an option, and it was cold and rainy outside, we decided to settle down in a little salon de thé.  It was adorable- so well decorated, with a classic menu full of glaces (ice cream), sorbet, and crépes.  We ordered bottles of Cidre Rosé (pink cider) because at this time of the day, pourquoi pas?

18:30 Finally return to my little Cité Universitaire, where I run to the Franprix and buy more microwaveable rice and apples, because that's the kind of superstar domestic goddess I am when it comes time to make dinner in la Fondation. 

And now I'm drinking tea, burning incense, and am probably going to watch True Blood because I'm too exhausted to fathom writing a research paper at the moment.

à bientôt, mes amis!

[lapetitejessica]

Le Cinema

Tonight was my premier expérience au cinéma français!

We saw La Vénus à la Fourrure by Roman Polanski, which is based on the Broadway play that recently came out, Venus in Fur.  I actually saw the original play at the Manhattan Theatre Club, so I was very excited when our french teacher announced a class outing to see this very film.

We went to the cinèma on St. Germain, right off the Odéon métro stop.

The film... well, I have to write a critique in French about it, so I won't say everything. 

A) I was proud to have understood basically all of it without a problem, but that could be because I was already very aware of the plot.  But still.  I never got lost in the actual language.  Yay.

B) I didn't like it nearly as much as the play. I remember leaving that theatre basically in tears, wowed by the amazing performances of Nina Arianda and Hugh Dancy and the intensity of the text.  We were all so PRESENT in that space.  Maybe that's the pitfall of putting a theatre piece on film.  You lose the essence. 

The film had its good moments, but at the end of it, I didn't feel anything except that Polanski is a weird guy. 

C) The woman playing Vanda is actually Polanski's wife, and she is WAY too old for the role.  I think she did a good job, but still. Nina Arianda set a much too high standard, and Emmanuelle Seigner did not meet it in the least.

Anyways, I did enjoy being in a movie theatre, and I did enjoy being reminded of this awesome play.  ALSO, saw a trailer for a new Marion Cotillard film called the Immigrant, and obvi cannot wait to see it!