#1910s chic

[mote-historie]

Evening gown by Lucile aka Lucy, Lady Duff-Gordon, Les Modes Paris, June 1914

[artdecoandmodernist]

Fabius Lorenzi, After the rain. Art Nouveau, 1913.

For sale: fine art america

[themadamechic]

| My biggest crush, its just something so special about him.

[ziseviolet]

Qipao/Cheongsam Taobao Shop Recs

A while ago I received a direct message asking for recs on where to buy qipao/cheongsam, and I figured I’d make a post for others who’d also be interested. 

First of all - I think qipao should be tried on and bought in-person if at all possible, since having the right fit is important - especially if it’s for a formal occasion like a wedding. However, since that’s often not possible, I’ve compiled a list of online shop recs, mainly for more casual occasions.

Since English-language online qipao shops are plentiful and easy to find, I’ll be focusing this list on Taobao shops only. Please note that these are my personal recs, based on my own aesthetic preferences. Thus most of the recs are for shops focused on retro-inspired, minguo-style qipao made using the traditional 平裁/pingcai (flat tailoring) method. Also, I have not actually purchased qipao from any of these shops (all my qipao were bought in person) - this is based mainly on how appealing I find the designs.

1. 嬉姷/Xi You - Elegant qipao modelled closely on historical designs, mainly from the Republican era/minguo. Careful attention paid to historical details. My favorite qipao shop to browse for fun:

2. 海上芳时/Shanghai Fancy - Specializes in chic minguo-style designs of the 1920s-1940s. Recently came out with a neat art deco-inspired collection:

3. 唐之语/Tang Zhi Yu - Retro-style qipao in a variety of bold prints, with a focus on the form-fitting designs of the 1950s-1960s, including those from the film “In the Mood for Love”:

4. 繁莳/Fancy Dream - Dreamy, delicate retro-inspired qipao and modified qipao. Also has a nice selection of winter majia (vests):

5. Top Ulara - A large selection of classic, retro-style qipao with a hint of glamour. Offers lots of long/thick/layered qipao suitable for colder weather:

6. 梦回故里/Menghui Guli - Nostalgic, conservative retro-style qipao for all seasons. Old-fashioned in a good way:

7. 柳园旗袍/Liuyuan Qipao - Retro-style qipao with bold and interesting prints, in styles from the 1910s to the 1960s. The shop currently doesn’t show any products, but hopefully it’ll restock soon:

8. 限时赏味/Xianshi Shangwei - Streamlined, retro-style qipao in subtle colors and prints that exemplify understated elegance: 

9. 茉茉/Momo - Tons of options for simple, cute, and casual retro-style qipao suitable for daily wear. Designs tend towards monochromes and all-over prints. Another review/rec here:

10. 珞珞如石/RoseEra - Simple yet elegant retro-style and contemporary qipao. I love the shop’s use of sheer fabrics & layering in its designs:

11. 向南飞FLY - Offers a selection of casually stylish retro-style qipao and modified qipao for daily chic:

12. 川黛/Chuan Dai - Soft, feminine, pastel-infused qipao & modified qipao in retro-inspired and contemporary styles:

13. 四斤自制/Sijin Studio - Creative, avant-garde takes on (modified) qipao & qipao-inspired outfits:

14. 密扇/Mukzin - Colorful, playful, and irreverent modified qipao and qipao-inspired outfits. There’s also an English website here:

If you like the above qipao but still want an English website, there are several Taobao resellers that carry similar designs - for example, Beth and Brian Qipao.

Finally, when it comes to in-person shops, I want to highlight Xiangjiang Silk Co., a relatively new boutique in New York City specializing in actual vintage 1950s-1960s qipao. There’s an article here on the boutique and its founder Heather Guo (who was featured in Vogue). Store visits are appointment-only, so you’ll have to reach out to Heather via her social media if you want to drop by.

If anyone has reviews of the above shops and/or more qipao shop recs, please share! ^^

Bonus: I also have online shop recs for hanfu (1, 2), modified hanfu/hanyuansu (1, 2), hanfu accessories, weimao, and hair accessories. 

[gogmstuff]

1910 Was a Big Year for Hats -

1910 The Black Feather Hat by Gustavv Klimt (location ?). From tumblr.com/lonequixote/128857458717/gustav-klimt-the-black-feather-hat 625X800.

According to Wikipedia, "Geneviève Lantelme (born Mathilde Hortense Claire Fossey, 20 May 1883 – 24/25 July 1911) was a French stage actress, socialite, fashion icon, and courtesan. Considered by her contemporaries to be one of the most beautiful women of the Belle Epoque..." She posed wearing the spectacular hats of the time.

Left 1910 (December) Lantelme in wide hat and Paquin dress photo by Reutlinger Les Modes. From verbinina.wordpress.com/page/8/; fixed spots w Pshop 1844X2691.

Right 1910 (January) Lantelme in hat by Marie-Louise Les Modes. From verbinina.wordpress.com/page/8/ 2048X2959.

1910 (July) Lantelme in hat by Carlier photo by Félix Les Modes. From verbinina.wordpress.com/page/8/; fixed spots w Pshop 1354X1458.

1910 (November) Lantelme modeling hats. From verbinina.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/lantelme-nov1910-2 2048X2828.

1910 (November) Lantelme modeling high hat. From verbinina.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/lantelme-nov1910-2 1295X1638.

Left 1910 (May) Les Modes Hats by Maison Dalnys. From les-modes.tumblr.com/search/1910s/page/13 1000X1802.

Right 1910 (August) Les Modes Hat by Alphonsine. From les-modes.tumblr.com/search/1910s/page/2; fixed spots w Pshop 1280X1800.

Left 1910 (May) Walking ensemble by Bernerd, Les Modes - photo by Félix. From les-modes.tumblr.com/page/13; fixed spots w Pshop 761X1920. This is a very subdued hat for 1910.

Right 1910 (October) Dresses and hats by Jeanne Lanvin, Les Modes - photo by Paul Nadar. From les-modes.tumblr.com/page/15; fixed spots w Pshop 1280X1804. Very subdued for the day.

Left 1910 Feathered hats at the races. From les-modes.tumblr.com/post/146935641890/fashion-at-the-races-les-modes-july-1910-photo; fixed spots w Pshop 755X1630.

Right 1910 Hat and parasol. From les-modes.tumblr.com/post/146935641890/fashion-at-the-races-les-modes-july-1910-photo; fixed spots w Pshop 750X1624.

1910 Pepita Teixidor Drawing by Ramon Casas (location ?). From titturasculturapoesiamusica.com/2014/08/Ramon-Casas-Carbo.html 1228X1600.

1910 The Blue Hat by Kees Van Dongen (private collection). From the discontinued Athenaeum Web site 841X1024.

[eldritchboop]

The Ancient Key to The Tarot - 21 Books

The Lost Book Project is charging $13 for this collection. If you found this roundup useful, consider donating to the Internet Archive instead.

Other roundups here

Learning the Tarot by Joan Bunning (1998)

The Way Of Tarot by Alejandro Jodorowsky (2004)

Illustrated Key to the Tarot - Veil of Divination by L. W. de Laurence (1916)

The Ultimate Guide To Tarot by Liz Dean (2015) Ed note: This book is still very much in print; link is a rental

The Voynich Manuscript (Unknown)

Absolute Key to Occult Science. The Tarot of the Bohemians (1819)

The Pictorial Key To The Tarot - A. E. Waite (1910)

The Symbolism of the Tarot by P.D. Ouspensky (1913)

General Book of the Tarot by A.E. Thierens (1930)

The New Golden Dawn Ritual Tarot by Chic Ciero (1996)

Tarot Spells by Renee Jenina (2000) Ed note: This book is still very much in print; link is a rental

Tarot Spreads - Get The Whole Story by James Ricklef (2004) Ed note: This book is still very much in print; not linked.

The Magical Ritual of the Sanctum Regnum (Unknown)

The Game of Life by Timothy Leary (1978)

The First Book of Luciferian Tarot by Michael Ford (2007) Ed note: This book is still very much in print; not linked.

Understanding Aleister Crowleys Thoth Tarot by Lon Milo Duquette (2002)

The Tarot by  S. L. MacGregor Mathers (1888)

Fortune-Telling by Cards by P.R.S. Foli (1900)

The Book of Thoth Book by Aleister Crowley (1944)

Introduction To The Study Of The Tarot by Paul Foster Case (1920)

Meditations On The Tarot by Valentin Tomberg (1980)

[thepastisalreadywritten]

Following the crowning of King Charles III and Queen Camilla over the weekend, May 6 will be seared into the memory as the anniversary of Their Majesties’ Coronation.

The world watched as foreign royals, world leaders, and members of the British Royal Family gathered to witness the couple being crowned in spectacular fashion at Westminster Abbey.

Yet it is not the only major royal event to have taken place on May 6.

In fact, the date is deeply entwined with the history of the House of Windsor.

King Edward VII, one of King Charles’s ancestors, died on 6 May 1910 and his son, King George V, succeeded him.

Princess Margaret married Antony Armstrong-Jones in one of the most incredible royal weddings of all time.

Shortly before midnight on 6 May 1910, King Edward VII died after suffering several heart attacks earlier that day.

It brought an end to his nine-year reign, which was dwarfed by that of his history-making mother, Queen Victoria.

Edward VII was succeeded by his son, King George V, who was proclaimed king the following day.

‘I have lost my best friend and the best of fathers,’ George mused in his diary.

King George V, the great-grandfather of King Charles III, ruled until 20 January 1936.

He was initially succeeded by his eldest son, King Edward VIII, although he ultimately abdicated in favour of his brother, King George VI, in order to marry the American divorcee Wallis Simpson.

There were many firsts attributed to Princess Margaret’s wedding to Antony Armstrong-Jones (created Earl of Snowdon on the day) on 6 May 1960.

Not only was it the first time that a King’s daughter had married a 'commoner’ in 400 years, it was also the first ever royal wedding to be televised (300 million watched it from across the globe) and saw Margaret herself wearing a tiara that she had purchased, rather than one from the family collection.

Margaret wore a silk organza dress designed by Norman Hartnell, the royal couturier who had previously created the Queen’s wedding dress some 13 years earlier.

A relatively chic and simple design – with a v-neck and long sleeves – befitting Margaret’s petite stature, the gown nevertheless still featured 30 metres of fabric to make the full skirt.

The ceremony was attended by 2,000 people, including European royalty, politicians and the social set.

Margaret had eight bridesmaids, including her niece, Princess Anne, her goddaughter, Marilyn Wills and Annabel Rhodes, a cousin from her mother’s side of the family.

Armstrong-Jones’ best man was Dr. Roger Gilliatt, son of the Queen’s gynaecologist.

The Queen’s younger sister had kept her relationship with the society snapper a secret until the announcement of their engagement on 27 February 1960.

However, the marriage wasn’t to last. The couple divorced in 1978.

The Queen remained close with her sister and her family until her death.

Princess Margaret’s descendants, including Lady Sarah Chatto and Lady Margarita Armstrong-Jones, will attend the Coronation.

xxx

Edited

[murfpersonalblog]

My IWTV Dream - Dracula meets Beauty & the Beast

I am the most disoriented person ever. I just woke up from the most detailed dream--it felt so real that I swore I had missed the premier of IWTV--not Season 2, but Season ONE y'all. 😅

But it was VERY different from AMC's IWTV, and now I know why, cuz last night I was rewatching WWDITS, and the day before that I was watching the premier of the new Castlevania series with my friends (we ended up gushing about IWTV and other vampire shows). Which explains a lot of why my dream went the way it did.

Ok, so it was still AMC!Loustat, and it was still 1910, but it was actually a Dracula/Beauty & the Beast fusion. After Louis' father died & left the DPDLs broke, Louis left NOLA to become an accountant/real estate agent/assistant for Marquis de Lioncourt, an uber rich European whose newspaper post he'd answered. (He took the job cuz MdL promised to send a HUGE advancement ahead of time, covering travel expenses & stuff, which Louis split with his family back in NOLA.) The Marquis wants to invest in properties across Europe & America, and needs someone to handle his daytime operations--basically, Louis is Roget & Johnathan Harker & Renfield.

Louis boards a ship to Europe, takes the steamtrain to France, and arrives by horse carriage at the Marquis' dilapidated chateau/castle (in my dream it's technically France, but it felt like Transylvania--again, I was watching Castlevania the other day & had Dracula on the brain).

The Marquis de Lioncourt is of course Lestat, but Dracula/Beauty & the Beast style he's not hot yet when they first meet--"velcome to my home~"--he's all gnarly Swamp King chic, "dead but delicious."

But that doesn't stop Les from charming Louis--reading his mind, talking/acting funny, and all his homoerotic "tricks," so Louis doesn't notice the dude's a frikkin corpse.

Louis asks the villagers in Auvergne about the Lioncourts, and they all say every Marquis over the generations has been weird (they're all Lestat, but the villagers don't know that, ofc), but that the Lioncourts keep the area safe from predators (LOL) and even send money to the needy so the whole town stays prosperous. Sure, people tend to go missing, stop asking questions! 👀

Eros & Psyche style, Louis very quickly catches on that the chateau is magic/haunted--ghost!Magnus is Cogsworth/Lumiere & ghost!Claudia is Chip/Mrs Potts. (He can sense & hear them, and kinda see them, cuz the DPDLs are distantly related to the Mayfairs through Julien, like in AMC's original pilot script.) They're barely enough to keep him company, but they're also withholding info like everyone else.

A lot of my dream was Louis managing Lestat's investments & exploring the chateau during the day--it's all super lavish Art Nouveau, like AMC's townhouse, but grimy & charred, like everything's 100 years old and been through a fire. Only Louis' wing is kept habitable. Wolves roam freely around the property, and though they're not tame, for some reason they never bother Louis. And ofc the West Wing is off limits. There's also the whole deal with music & magic--Louis hears Lestat playing the piano & violin obsessively, kinda like Edward Scissorhands with his ice sculptures & topiaries, or AR's Julien Mayfair & his haunted victrola. He hears the piano around sunset, almost like an alarm clock letting him know that Lestat is awake & might be available to talk. The violin is weird though, playing during the daytime when Lestat told Louis he would never be around, and when Louis asked if anyone else was in the house he was told No. At night Lestat plays piano beautifully for Louis sometimes (never the violin), and they talk & chat & get on well enough, but Lestat is also a moody manchild recluse with no manners, so "modernizing" him takes a lot of work & patience. Especially since he constantly skulks in the shadows, keeps the lights off/dim, and avoids letting Louis really ever look at him head on.

Of course there's the Library Scene TM (and ofc Lestat's useless arse is illiterate). Louis reads up on the Lioncourts, and realizes that the math ain't mathin, as Lestat, the villagers, the ghosts, and even the books aren't telling him anything substantial about the history of the area, family, chateau--nada. As Lestat's accountant he has access to the taxes/ledgers/etc, that only go as far as corroborating what the villagers already told him about centuries of Lioncourt Marquises all named Lestat--this current lord is the 7th generation (Lestat VII). But the longer Louis stays there, he starts becoming more sensitive/aware of the magic/curse on the chateau.

Soon enough, Louis starts having crazy dreams, glimpses of the chateau all restored and gorgeous, and populated by a whole court of people--by their voices he realizes that 2 of them are Magnus & Claudia. Most importantly, he sees the real Lestat, who's beautiful & debonair, and the only one he can actually talk to & engage with in the dream. Because basically, Lestat is seducing Louis in his sleep/head like some creeper.

Louis starts looking forward to going to sleep, so he can meet hot!Lestat in his dreams--black tar heroin to the rings of Saturn, etc. The dubcon is strong, cuz Lestat's like an incubus feeding on Louis in his sleep & taking Little Drinks; "I was being on hunted." Finally Louis is lucid enough to realize that Lestat's a vampire/loup garou--only seeing him at night, never eating, eavesdropping/catching him having literal conversations with the creatures of the night, etc. The longer Louis lived there, and the more Lestat drank from him, the younger/healthier Lestat started appearing when Louis was awake. Louis thought it was him rehabilitating/modernizing Lestat that caused the change, when really it was just his blood. Was anything between them real? The monstrous Lestat was more honest than the beautiful one!

Lestat lovebombs Louis, swearing that his affection is real, it's just that the dreams were a necessary evil. Louis asks why, but Lestat doesn't speak up. Assuming Lestat was too insecure to seduce/court him as a cadaver, Louis assures Lestat that he didn't need to be glamoured to accept the supernatural, not when the place is crawling with ghosts. Lestat admits that he was surprised that Louis could sense/hear them, and that's when he knew he could try reaching Louis through dreams. Things are going well until Lestat opens his big mouth and also admits that he gave Louis his blood in his sleep, which upsets Louis even more. Louis won't leave/quit, but he's not at all happy with Lestat's deceptions and ices him out--next time they talk or lay together, it will be on Louis' terms or not at all!

Later on, Louis realizes that it was Lestat's blood that made him more sensitive to the chateau's magic over time--not enough to turn him into a vampire, but more than enough to trigger his latent Mayfair abilities. He notices the entire chateau smells like smoke--the dirt and dust everywhere is actually ash. Magnus & Claudia's ghosts are sharper and Louis can actually see them now, too. Immediately he sees that both Magnus and Claudia are covered in burns. He asks what happened to them, but they literally cannot talk about it. He realizes that it's part of the curse. If he asks them direct Yes/No questions, they can answer him--so he learns that yes, they both died in a fire in the chateau a long time ago, and yes there is a curse, and yes Louis can help them, and yes they know how, and no they can't tell him how, and yes they know who cursed them, and yes the one who did it is still in the chateau. Only when he asks if it's Lestat, the ghosts just clam up and vanish.

So Louis goes investigating the next morning. The forbidden West Wing is locked off, but when he forces it open and rummages around he learns that it's actually Gabrielle's old bedroom. The REAL mess Louis finds is in the basement, Bluebeard/QotD style. He heard that same violin again, coming from the lower levels, and followed it to a secret door. In the basement is Lestat's coffin room, sealed tight cuz Lestat's asleep during the day. But there's also a stench coming from down the hall. It's not the smokey smell the curse had glamored away, this is a REAL stench: it's Lestat's blood-dungeon, where he keeps the Evil Doers he drains & kills--there's old bloody jars labelled Blood of a Murderer, Rapist, Thief, etc. (The reason Les was half starved is because the village is small and pickings are slim.)

Louis is horrified, and gets turned around when he stumbles out of the dungeon. He finds a gorgeous music room, with an old violin surrounded by faded sheet music--this must be where the violin Louis hears everyday is being played. He sits down to catch his breath, not really caring about investigating any further, but before he can even collect his thoughts Lestat barges into the room screaming for Louis to get out and not touch anything and leave.

Naturally, Louis runs for the hills. ghost!Claudia & Magnus follow him, begging him to come back, but he ignores them. He gets lost, and on the edge of the village in the woods is what turns out to be an old cemetery--Les Innocents, which is crawling with revenants.

Armand's coven abducts Louis and drags him into the catacombs, easily pulling from his mind that Louis was living with Lestat. He mercilessly harasses Louis, saying something about "doing to him what he did to Nicki," and how he'll use Louis as bait to jump Lestat and steal his secrets (about Those Who Must Be Kept ofc). But Louis insists that because Lestat kicked him out, he's not coming. But Louis' not helpless--ghost!Claudia & Magnus find Louis, and help him escape by burning the place down while the vamps are all asleep.

Louis runs back into the woods, as firemen from the village come to keep the fire from spreading--they're not even tryna go near Les Innocents, as they're actually well aware that Lestat & Armand have vampire territorial beef, and assume that Lestat must've finally decided to kick Armand out for good. No one told Lou that they knew about vamps, cuz as an outsider/stranger he wouldn't understand.

The ghosts ask Louis what he'll do now, but he's all shaken up. It doesn't matter anyway, cuz out of the mist comes Lestat like Mr. Darcy, headed right for Louis. Lestat is a sobbing weeping mess, and the blood loss from all his crying has degenerated him back to his cadaver-like form--Louis at first fears he's another of Armand's revenants. Lestat was scared he was too late--by the time he'd decided to go after Louis, the sun had risen, and Armand already had Louis locked up--and humans don't last long under Les Innocents. Louis says the ghosts helped him. Lestat is relieved; Louis' a strong witch, as only witches can get ghosts to help them so far away from the place they died. Louis asks "Is Nicki a ghost, too? Is he the one who's been playing violin everyday? Is he the one who cursed you? Is Nicki the one who can lift it?"

The floodgates open--Lestat can answer Yes/No questions, so he says Yes, Nicki was Lestat's lover back when they were both human, hundreds of years ago; they both loved playing music together, and dreamed of touring the world in a troupe. Magnus turned Lestat and took Lestat as his protege in the Blood. All the other servants were scared off, but Claudia was left behind & abandoned, so Lestat turned her. Nicki refused to be turned, appalled by their vampirism. The rival vampire in the area Armand kidnapped Nicki as leverage to get Magnus and/or Lestat to give up the secret of TWMBK (cuz Magnus knows Rhoshamandes, and Rhosh is from the First Brood). Magnus refused to say anything, even if Nicki would be killed, and convinced Lestat not to start a vampire war with Armand, who was gonna leave Lestat soon anyway. When Nicki learned of this betrayal, he cursed Lestat and the whole household: a fire started in the chateau the same night Armand killed Nicki, taking out Magnus & Claudia, and leaving Lestat burned & disfigured for centuries. Nicki's curse was a deadlock: the ghosts can't leave the castle, Lestat can't leave the village, and Armand can't leave Les Innocents. The best they can do is lure people to them. And they couldn't tell anyone about it, either--but ofc curses have loopholes, which is why Yes/No questions work.

Louis asks if he was lured as prey to the chateau, and Lestat laughs, it honestly was a coincidence that a human with witch-blood would answer his post--he really did need an assistant/accountant, to make sure his estate could maintain the villagers if anything happened to him; Lestat was certain he was dying before Louis showed up. The dreams were the only way Lestat could be whole again, away from Nicki's curse, safe in Louis' mind. Not everything in the dreams were his doing--Louis' own magic made it way stronger than it normal. But when Lestat realized he could speak freely in the dreams, he should have been honest with Louis, so he understands if Louis wants to leave--this has been a nightmare.

But Louis asks to be taken back to the chateau. Loustat & the ghosts all head back. Lo and behold, even though it's nighttime, the violin can be heard all the way outside, and when they enter the chateau Nicki's ghost is standing right there at the front door. Louis is very empathetic & sympathetic, and urges Nicki to release the curse so that he too can be free of this place. Lestat apologizes too, but Nicki's not really interested in what he has to say, LOL. Nicki hands Louis the old violin, and Louis smashes it, sets it on fire, and scatters the ashes out in the garden. Nicki vanishes for good, and Magnus & Claudia's souls are free.

As for Loustat, they decide to renovate the chateau. While it's under construction, they'll travel the world together. Louis remains Lestat's accountant/agent until they hire a new one (Roget), so that Lestat can turn Louis. They become vampire companions, and have a much healthier relationship.

I have insomnia, and these dreams are NOT helping.

[thedabara]

BEAUTY EVOLUTION OF SYLVIA SIDNEY

(1910-1999)

1929 cute as a button teenage flapper

1932 she is so beautiful with this hair

1934 her face is unique and a work of art

1937 her deep, sad eyes make her special

1941 mysterious sylvia as a fortune teller

1943 this 40s hair matches her face perfectly

1946 stunning and a bit older how lovely

1952 over 40 but looking ultra glamorous

1977 chic in the 70s aging gracefully

1982 her eyes tell a story i love her eyes

[akara33]

"La mode se démode, le style jamais."

Coco Chanel, auteure de cette citation est née le 19 août 1883. Prénommée Gabrielle, elle rêve de music-hall dans sa jeunesse, avant de mettre à profit ses connaissances en matière de couture. En confectionnant ses propres chapeaux et des tenues très originales pour l'époque, elle attire vite l'attention. Simples mais sophistiquées, ses réalisations plaisent à une riche clientèle qui se presse, dès les années 1910, dans les boutiques parisiennes que possède notre créatrice de mode. Sa grande idée est de libérer la femme, en lui fabriquant notamment des habits moins étriqués. Toujours à l'avant garde, elle popularise la coupe de cheveux "à la garçonne" et lance des tendances intemporelles comme la marinière ou la célèbre petite robe noire en 1926. Elle est aussi la première couturière à proposer à la vente ses propres parfums. Le N°5 est aujourd'hui encore le symbole incontesté du chic à la française...

[mote-historie]

Art Nouveau style Robe du Soir by Baron Christoff von Drecoll, Les Modes Paris, 1914

[awesomehoggirl]

meeting up with someone today who dresses like 1910 chic but i inflicted frank zappa valley girl on myself as soon as i woke up so now im like should i vibe match or oh ventura there she goes she just wants some bitchin clothes

[mayor-espino]

—     Location : L’antique c’est chic   —       With @javiervidal

Luis had been trying to think of something to gift for their Tin Anniversary. He’d have a much easier time if it had not been tradition to offer something made of damn tin. That would be when he thought of going for something dating back to the 1910′s instead. Yes, it was technically cheating on the traditions but Luis, while he usually showed respect for those, refused to buy a piece of trash to his husband. He’d pushed the door leading to this antique store on the advice of one of his collaborators. Sure enough the place looked like it had everything one could ask of an expensive antique store, and he’d have been delighted if it wasn’t for the fact that those places always made him feel out of place. It was silly, he knew that, but catching with his eye a £103,350 price tag on a tacky centerpiece made him feel even more uneasy.

[galvanizedfriend]

So, I might have a few questions per character, so excuse all of the coming asks. Rebekah Mikaelson. Who do you think her one true love is? Was her unwavering loyalty her undoing? Does she regret sleeping with Damon? Best outfit? Best episode? Best line?

Cristy 🤣🤣 I love that you sent me a bunch of asks about the characters to get me raaaaambling all night long 😌✨ You know me so well, ty! ❤

Ok, Rebekah! I'm sure the show wants us to think it was Marcel, but I refuse 🤣 I hated that ship, omg. She RAISED him from a kid, she was like a mother figure, WHYYYY would they do that? 🥲 In terms of relationships, I think out of all Rebekah's flings, what I liked the most was Stefan tbh. I thought they were really cute together, and that episode where he starts out by manipulating her and she knows what he's doing but plays along and then at the end he's just sort of enjoying himself was such a nice one and could've been the start of something. I would've liked to see them pursue that thing.

HOWEVER. I think Rebekah's one true love is herself. Like the moment she finally gets away from her family's drama and Klaus' control is probably when she was happiest. No need for a dude there.

I don't think she regrets sleeping with Damon lol I mean, he was definitely not a high point for her, but why would she regret it? He's hot, so whatever, and it's not like he was a controversial figure for her personally. I don't like how they were all 'Damon is using Rebekah', but wasn't she using him as well? So why can't it be mutually beneficial?

Oooh, best outfits! I love this red fit! I couldn't find a good pic of it on Rebekah, but that's the outfit on that other lady there (I think she's from Teen Wolf?)

And also this one from the masquerade ball. I really liked her general look in this episode! This dress was super pretty, she looked very chic.

And just basically all of her 1910s/20s outfits, both in TVD and TO! She looked so pretty in all of them!

I really liked her and Elena being BFFs when Elena didn't have her humanity. lol That episode where they go on a road trip, I think they're after the cure? Or something? And Rebekah kicks some guy's ass at a bar, and then they end up at the city where Katherine is. Those were nice episodes. I also really like the The Originals episode where Rebekah leaves as a main character, I think its 15 or 16 in season 1, Goodbye to Storyville or something. It's a very strong episode for her and Klaus and where they get to address a lot of the bitterness they had between them since TVD. After that, she only comes back for brief cameos here and there. The scene of her driving off in a convertible is very Rebekah! And I love the song playing in that scene, too. As for best line, you got me there 🤣 My memory is do bad, I don't remember many of her lines. I know she had so many snarky ones that I loved, but I can't think of any now. 🙃 I failed Rebekah 😭

[labyrinthoftartarus]

Discussing Iconic Fashion Trends: My Opinions and Analysis(Part 1)

Welcome to the artsy Labyrinth of Tartarus, wherein I discuss casually influential fashion trends spanning over decades and my personal take on each of them.

For this post, I will be using this website for obtaining the names and characteristics of each style and trend, just for easier analysis.

The 1800s- The S Bend Sillhouette.

The S-Bend Sillhouette was popularized in the 1800s, with the corset forming an S-shaped silhouette, enhancing the bust and hips while narrowing the waist and stomach to practically nothing.

During the shift from the Victorian Era(think polished and conservative colours, strict and bossy styles, and poised garments), the Edwardian Era of clothing seems to be a major upgrade, as this was the period when society was rapidly becoming less conservative and more modernized, giving women a chance to express themselves more lightly and carefree.

The above is an example of Victorian styles- puffy gowns, crinolines(the wired silhouettes for wearing gowns) with voluminous backs, and corsets exaggerated to portray "sexuality".

However, during the end of the Victorian Era and the beginning of the Edwardian Era, fashion in women evolved to a more chic, elegant style that is less restrictive and more carefree in nature. The style is so prominent that it has formed the basis for many fashion trends to this date.

Instead of gaudy and elaborate designs, simpler, more feminine designs with light clothing made of cotton and linen, often decorated with ruffles, floral prints, and lace.

The most prominent feature of the Edwardian Era was quite obviously the iconic S-Shaped Silhoutte. It enchanced the bust and protuded out the hip and butt while thinning the waist, to a slightly comical and an exaggerated look. As an ideal standard of beauty persists in each era, the Gibson Girl formed the basis of beauty.

The Gibson Girl- The Ideal woman of the Edwardian Era.

A messy, voluminous hairstyle with a slim yet curvacious figurine made a Gibson Girl- the epitome of elegance and sexuality. She had a rather large bust, an elegant figure with an exaggerated hip. She often wore seductive yet flowy, feminine clothing which was often elegant and poised. A sweetheart or a square neckline was implemented into the looks, abandoning the conservative and high necks of Victorian fashion(however, some sources claim Victorians were less conservative and did not implement high necklines in their fashion, which I am unaware of as both my researches clash. So I'd like someone to clarify.). Slightly messy updos were preferred. This style is effortless and chic and at the same time, not too sexualizing and revolting.

My opinions-

I honestly find Edwardian Fashion to be my favourite out of all historical fashion trends, because of its seductive yet poised silhouette and beautiful elements which embrace femininity and formed a basis for many hyperfeminine styles now. Gibson Girl was indeed toxic, as all beauty ideals are, due to its overexaggerated sS-Shaped Silhouette trend that was incredibly comfortable and unhealthy. However, the interpretation and style are magnificent and quite interesting.

Artwork of a Gibson Girl by Giovanni Boldini.

The 1910s- Hobble Skirt.

As women became comfortable in wearing clothes above the ankle, hobble skirts originated, evolving to be one of the most ridiculous fashion trends which somehow paved the way to be one of the most influential, too.

It is an ankle-length skirt that tapers at the end, just above the ankles. It was a massive failure that was popularized, as it limited movement and resulted in many accidents. However, due to its highly glamorous style, it was a staple for many upper-class women.

Because of its simple design, it became popular with the lower and middle classes and was quickly reproduced everywhere. Pleats, slits, or buttons were used to provide an easier movement.

This fashion trend died out quickly, for obvious reasons.

My opinions-

No words- it is ugly, it is ridiculous, it is downright stupid, and just...why? However, I am happy with the variant of the hobble skirt which prevails now- The pencil skirt. An elegant, minimalistic and chic variant of the dreadful hobble skirt.

Pencil Skirt.

The 1920s- Flapper Fashion and Black Dress By Chanel.

Flapper style originated in the 1920's and is one of the most popular and commonly recognized fashion trends in history. This fashion trend was scandalous and revolting as it challenged conservative society and paved way to its own subcultre.

Flapper styles are usually flowy, sultry, fluid garments in rectangular pieces of clothing which are heavily decorated with ornate designs, embedded with beads, and studded with sequins. They pose a polar opposite to the trends that prevailed earlier and were quite the opposite of modest and decent clothing. Feathers and other flamboyant details like exaggerated, fancy makeup were also incorporated.

Flappers were considered to be crass, immature women who flaunted their sexuality and showed their apparent distaste for societal norms. They wore bold makeup, and skimpy clothes, and had a casual approach to sex. They indulged in many foreplay parties and had a lot of freedom, owing to the availability of automobiles and the social and political disability caused by World War I.

A flapper dress. It reaches the knee, which was considered very short back then. The sleeveless dress was considered vulgar and scandalous.

Corsets have been discarded, and a box figure was obtained by the flapper style, giving a boyish look. Knee-length dresses were normalized, and dresses were made to look sexually appealing(show off legs and arms). Intricate patterns and beadwork were used.

Why do I love Flapper Styles?

Flapper style firstly is very chic and fancy. They are highly versatile and can be made into either an elegant dress or a striking party gown. It also has rooted itself in gothic and punk genres and has formed a staple of many aesthetical trends now.

Gothic subcultures adopted the flapper look as it is a symbol of individuality and expression.

The Roaring Twenties had a massive impact on society. It marked a period of transition from a conventional society to a carefree, scandalous society. It marks the beginning of artistic liberty in the clothing styles of women and a sense of individuality. For the first time in history, women wore knee-length skirts and sleeveless dresses and flaunted their sexuality.

During the roaring twenties, there was heavy progress in economical growth. People could afford dresses with elaborate and ornate decors and patterns. This contributed to the popularity of flapper styles.

The Roaring Twenties. A time of dramatic social, cultural, and political change affecting lifestyle, music, art, and society.

The Little Black Dress- A staple since the 1920s.

Everyone is familiar with the little black dress. It is considered a staple in every wardrobe, as it is a dress that can be worn for every occasion- be it a party, an interview, or a funeral. The history of the little black dress stretches back to the 1920s. It was released by Coco Chanel during the Great Depression. It became soon popularized due to its elegant and simple and highly versatile design, making it popular to this day.

The Original Black Dress, designed by Coco Chanel.

A sexier alternate designed by Coco herself- cinched waists and fuller skirts, giving a whole new dimension to the look.

Marilyn Monroe sporting an off-shoulder black dress.

The black dress quickly gained fame and it became a symbol of grace and minimalism.

My opinion-

I absolutely adore the flapper dress and the little black dress. It was a huge transition from the conservative era to a new era wherein women sexually embraced themselves and expressed their liberty through fashion. It brought a huge change to society and I give all my respect for that. I also find these styles to be stunning and really pretty.

The 1930s- Bias-Cut Gowns

By the end of the Great Depression, the loose flapper dresses got replaced by cocktail gowns of silk, satin, and rayon, which embrace and accentuate the female body. These dresses were effortless, sleek, and agile.

Madeleine Vionnet designed a bias cut, which stands iconic even today.

It exemplified the curves of a woman by incorporating sleek silky material, which would cling to the body and create a seductive, sexy silhouette without the usage of corsets and thus, ensuring no over-exaggeration of feminine bodies.

It marked the beginning of the femme fatale aesthetic, portraying sensual women who are potentially dangerous with the help of the silver screen.

The bias-cut gown still exists today and has been popularized recently, owing to its minimalistic yet sensual design.

Modern bias-cut gown.

My opinions-

I love, love, love, love, love bias-cut gowns. They awakened the femme fatale aesthetic and embraced the natural feminity of women by placing them in slinky ensembles. This look is iconic and will forever be iconic.

So, this is it for part one. I may make a part two of the iconic styles throughout history, because I really enjoy researching them. Till then, thank you for reading!

[lunetterievuedensemble]

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