#modified hanfu

[persephone-tearose]

photography by: Xie Zezeze

[fatrabbitr]

【Fanart】12 Girls Chibi

Actually there are 13 girls( •́ω•̀ )

[ziseviolet]

Qipao/Cheongsam Taobao Shop Recs

A while ago I received a direct message asking for recs on where to buy qipao/cheongsam, and I figured I’d make a post for others who’d also be interested. 

First of all - I think qipao should be tried on and bought in-person if at all possible, since having the right fit is important - especially if it’s for a formal occasion like a wedding. However, since that’s often not possible, I’ve compiled a list of online shop recs, mainly for more casual occasions.

Since English-language online qipao shops are plentiful and easy to find, I’ll be focusing this list on Taobao shops only. Please note that these are my personal recs, based on my own aesthetic preferences. Thus most of the recs are for shops focused on retro-inspired, minguo-style qipao made using the traditional 平裁/pingcai (flat tailoring) method. Also, I have not actually purchased qipao from any of these shops (all my qipao were bought in person) - this is based mainly on how appealing I find the designs.

1. 嬉姷/Xi You - Elegant qipao modelled closely on historical designs, mainly from the Republican era/minguo. Careful attention paid to historical details. My favorite qipao shop to browse for fun:

2. 海上芳时/Shanghai Fancy - Specializes in chic minguo-style designs of the 1920s-1940s. Recently came out with a neat art deco-inspired collection:

3. 唐之语/Tang Zhi Yu - Retro-style qipao in a variety of bold prints, with a focus on the form-fitting designs of the 1950s-1960s, including those from the film “In the Mood for Love”:

4. 繁莳/Fancy Dream - Dreamy, delicate retro-inspired qipao and modified qipao. Also has a nice selection of winter majia (vests):

5. Top Ulara - A large selection of classic, retro-style qipao with a hint of glamour. Offers lots of long/thick/layered qipao suitable for colder weather:

6. 梦回故里/Menghui Guli - Nostalgic, conservative retro-style qipao for all seasons. Old-fashioned in a good way:

7. 柳园旗袍/Liuyuan Qipao - Retro-style qipao with bold and interesting prints, in styles from the 1910s to the 1960s. The shop currently doesn���t show any products, but hopefully it’ll restock soon:

8. 限时赏味/Xianshi Shangwei - Streamlined, retro-style qipao in subtle colors and prints that exemplify understated elegance: 

9. 茉茉/Momo - Tons of options for simple, cute, and casual retro-style qipao suitable for daily wear. Designs tend towards monochromes and all-over prints. Another review/rec here:

10. 珞珞如石/RoseEra - Simple yet elegant retro-style and contemporary qipao. I love the shop’s use of sheer fabrics & layering in its designs:

11. 向南飞FLY - Offers a selection of casually stylish retro-style qipao and modified qipao for daily chic:

12. 川黛/Chuan Dai - Soft, feminine, pastel-infused qipao & modified qipao in retro-inspired and contemporary styles:

13. 四斤自制/Sijin Studio - Creative, avant-garde takes on (modified) qipao & qipao-inspired outfits:

14. 密扇/Mukzin - Colorful, playful, and irreverent modified qipao and qipao-inspired outfits. There’s also an English website here:

If you like the above qipao but still want an English website, there are several Taobao resellers that carry similar designs - for example, Beth and Brian Qipao.

Finally, when it comes to in-person shops, I want to highlight Xiangjiang Silk Co., a relatively new boutique in New York City specializing in actual vintage 1950s-1960s qipao. There’s an article here on the boutique and its founder Heather Guo (who was featured in Vogue). Store visits are appointment-only, so you’ll have to reach out to Heather via her social media if you want to drop by.

If anyone has reviews of the above shops and/or more qipao shop recs, please share! ^^

Bonus: I also have online shop recs for hanfu (1, 2), modified hanfu/hanyuansu (1, 2), hanfu accessories, weimao, and hair accessories. 

[fuckyeahchinesefashion]

chinese hanyuansu fashion

[jayswing101]

Fill for G1 - Black Cloaked Envoy on my Guardian Bingo Card!

The base pattern is taken from this daxiushan (大袖衫) pattern. To make this daxiushan (Heipaoshi's Version), I shortened the sleeves a bit, added extra length to the body, added a hood, and added the weird gauzy bits on the back. I also added some cording on the shoulders and the sides of the hood, following the design from the show as closely as I could. You'll also notice a couple decorative bands of black ribbon on the chest and at the waist, as well as a square of skightly different black fabric on the back — these are also embellishments added to follow the model in the drama.

Fabric: raw silk noil, cotton lining in the hood, a silk habotai square, silk gauze, silk ribbons, cotton cording. Entirely handsewn using waxed black linen thread.

[fouryearsofshades]

electric-heated zhongyi by 如是观原创汉服.

[gabriel-d-artemius]

Hanfu related clothes I've made in the past 8 months

Hello!!! It's been a while, hasn't it? I'd like to preface this post by saying that I'm a slow maker and a procrastinator and so, I've only managed to make 4 articles of clothing in the last 8 months. I've bought fabric for some more but my brain looks at them and goes "uh, another time" and so, it's been left for later.

For those of you who saw my first post but not the second: my patterns arrived!! I got them from this wonderful shop in taobao and they've made my day. I've only so far used two patterns and I've had to cut them all out first, which, given I bought 9, it was a lot of work. So I only started to use them later in the last 3 months or so.

The first thing I made after april was a short, sleeveless beizi. It could also maybe be called a parallel collar banbi? As I make modified clothing as the mood strikes me, please take with a grain of salt all the names I use to refer to what I make, if someone in the comments corrects me, please do listen to them! Now, I got some stripy transparent viscose (rayon in some places) for cheap, which was why I made this. It needed its own pattern that I had to make myself, as at that moment in time I still hadn't received the ones I ordered so if anyone wants it, do tell me, I'll send it to you. It's very cute and comfortable and you'll see I french-seamed it. I discovered, in the process of making the previous banbi, that I absolutely hate sergers. So this is how I've made all my clothes since. I also had to finish the edges by had, as the fabric was very delicate and couldn't withstand the force of the sewing machine. But it came out very nice and airy and it's quite comfortable. I'm going to modify its pattern later to make a bijia, as I don't have a pattern for it, and I think it'll work nicely.

The next thing I made was still without a pattern and it was... challenging. I wanted to do kind of a banbi to use as a top in summer. I made it myself and then used a cross collared shirt I had as comparison, to see if it made sense. As I wanted a wider design on the collar, as in more open, I could only do so much with it. I had to modify it a little bit after I thought it done but it came out nicely. The only thing I'm not really happy with is the collar, as I wanted to make it with two fabrics, but I didn't want the one complimenting the main one to be "inside" as I've seen in many pieces similar to this one. I don't know how that is made and I certainly don't know how it should be made in this position so I just, rolled with it. I think I will unpick it in the future and make it another way, I don't like how it falls against the fabric, it kinda becomes taught and bunches, even if from afar one can't see it. If anyone has any idea how to make this better, please do hit me up xD Currently it's sandwitched between the collar and the body, kinda like a second collar, but because it falls to the other side it gets warped. Also, I wanted to do this in a nicer fabric but I was aware enough to try it with this one first, which was cheaper, in case something went wrong xD The other one is already cut and is only waiting on me thinking how to make the collar better. I made this with the beizi in mind so there's a picture with the two of them. Below another with the beizi and the nice fabric (it has fishies!!!).

Look at my happy face :DDD

Finally, the next thing I made using the pattern I got from the shop, and I made some pants!!! I had to adapt the pattern a bit, because it was for long pants and I wanted shorts for summer (and the fabric I had wasn't enough to make long pants, so shorts it was). I had to raise the crotch some, because the cut I made fell just at that line and it would have become a skirt (as you'll see in the first photo, the second is of the modified crotch) but the rest I made according to the pattern. I do have the slight suspicion though, that either I read the instructions wrongly or they were wrong because it came out very tight and I didn't see an opening anywhere but the waistband so I have to check on that (I added an opening on the side and put in a zipper). I also wanted to use a different fabric that I purchased just for this but I got very afraid of fucking it up so I got another fabric that I had destined for something else and used it as a trial. It did come out quite nicely, though I know I'll be making a couple of changes to the other one, that has already been cut and is waiting for the perfect moment.

I think you're getting my color palete from this, no? xD

And the last thing I finished last week and I also used one of the patterns I bought, the one for a shan, more specifically, and is the one that so far I love the most. I made it as a jacket with a cotton flannel I bought specifically for it and that I had my eye on for half a year and it's beauful. I love it. It's so soft, it's my favorite thing. They say cotton is cold and it sure doesn't give me much warmth outside but at some point I might give it a lining in linen, which is a termo-regulator fabric, and so that'll hopefully fix the issue. Right now it seems there's no linen in the stores because people don't think of linen as a winter fabric here, which it absolutely can be, so I'm pondering whether to wait until they stock it again or buy it in another country and have it delivered. Whichever's cheaper I guess. I'm just sad I forgot to add pockets ;__; (And I'm certainly not going to unpick it to add them now).

Do forgive my posing prowess, as it is nonexistent. To this one I added an interlining for the collar to stiffen it, as that's something I noticed I should have done with the previous jacket. Jacket I'm currently unpicking to fix it once and for all :D This one was also french-seamed and let me tell you, my sewing machine did NOT like that at all. I'll have to plan for it in future projects xD I am thinking of adding a belt to this one, as I think it would make the sihouette better when it's closed, but we'll see.

I want to make more pants in the future, as it's getting quite cold over here, so i have that to plan for, but for now I have a couple of short pieces I have to sew before the weekend so that will have to wait. Maybe I'll post something over here asking for help, because there's some pants I don't even know how to name or how to look for them xD

So see you when I make more things!!

[fatrabbit]

【Fanart】12 Girls Chibi

Actually there are 13 girls( •́ω•̀ )

[shroudkeeper]

..𝒎𝒚 𝒍𝒐𝒗𝒆 𝒇𝒐𝒓 𝒉𝒊𝒎, 𝒍𝒊𝒌𝒆 𝒂 𝒔𝒐𝒏𝒈𝒃𝒊𝒓𝒅’𝒔 𝒓𝒊𝒃 𝒄𝒂𝒈𝒆 𝒑𝒊𝒄𝒌𝒆𝒅 𝒄𝒍𝒆𝒂𝒏.

[malicemismanager]

I haven't finished some stuff for my con outfits (for next month fuuuuuuuuuuuu), of particular importance being the mushroom hat that entire outfit, y'know, depends on. I'm still (theoretically) working on my Yiling Laozu cosplay (I'll get back to it after the con. Honest), and like barely halfway through that. And yet, my brain is now trying to set allll that aside and start working on Xie Lian, and like. Bruh. No? We don't have the time for this. We don't have the money for this. Calm the fuck down, cabrón.

Why am I like this. 😐

[art-of-treble]

pansy asymmetrical bridal qipao - qipology (x)

[fatrabbitr]

【Fanart】十二女子

试着整了改良汉服与时装的混搭ᕕ(ᐛ)ᕗ（不我只是想画漂亮妹子）

Try to mix Hanfu with modern clothings~ (No I just wanna draw pretty girrrls)

[ziseviolet]

Hello, I would like to communicate that it would be better if you change "modernized hanfu" into "hanfu theme modern dresses" because most of those dresses are actually Western dresses with classical Chinese element woven into their designs.

Hi, thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply!

I actually don't use the term "modernized hanfu" anymore, as it tends to imply that "traditional" hanfu isn't compatible with modern living, and/or equate modernity with Westernization, neither of which I agree with.

Instead of the loaded term "modernized hanfu" with its problematic implications, here are the two terms I do use:

1) Modified hanfu/改良汉服 (gailiang hanfu) - "gailiang/改良" is defined as "improved" or "reformed", but I don't like how these words imply that "traditional" hanfu is somehow inferior to hanfu that's been altered, so I use the neutral word "modified" instead as its English equivalent. I use the term "modified hanfu" to describe garments that are mostly constructed using traditional methods, but may have non-traditional alterations, including: shortened hems, non-traditional materials (e.g. lace, denim, leather), non-traditional parts (e.g. pockets, buttons, zippers, elastic, ruffles, bows), etc.

For example, below is a modified hanfu outfit from Yuan Shan Qiao/远山乔. At first glance it might not look like hanfu, but this is actually a Ming dynasty-style outfit comprised of a standing-collar short shan, square-collar bijia, and shortened mamianqun. Whimsical lace accents and accessories complete the "Alice in Wonderland" vibe:

2) Hanyuansu/汉元素 - "han/汉" is short for "hanfu", and "yuansu/元素" means "element(s)". Thus, "hanyuansu" is a term that refers to clothing with elements of hanfu. I also like to think of it as "hanfu-inspired" clothing. I use the term "hanyuansu" to describe garments that incorporate elements of hanfu (e.g. patterns, motifs, embroidery, etc.) but are constructed using non-traditional shapes and methods. "Hanyuansu" can be used to describe what anon's referring to in their message - Western dresses with classical Chinese element woven into their designs.

For example, below is a hanyuansu outfit from Chuan Dai/川黛. At first glance, it looks like a regular two-piece ruqun/shanqun with modified sleeves. However, this is actually a one-piece dress, with the top and skirt sections sewn together. As such, this is not hanfu, but rather hanyuansu made to resemble hanfu:

With that being said, the distinction between "modified hanfu" and "hanyuansu" isn't always clear-cut, and there is often a lot of overlap between them. Therefore, the two terms are used interchangeably in many cases.

There are more examples in my modified hanfu and hanyuansu tags. Bonus: I also have a post with recs for modified hanfu/hanyuansu shops here.

Hope this helps!

[fuckyeahchinesefashion]

chinese fashion by 鹭洲集汉服馆 

[tossawary]

Sewing adventures continue with delightful surprises. I was paging through a pattern book in the fabric store, looking for ideas on what garments I might be able to make and modify, and looked through the costume section for fun. Lots of Jane Austen historical dresses and "we legally cannot specifically say this is intended for 'Game of Thrones' cosplay" "medieval" outfits in there, which was to be expected, and then I turned the page and barked out a surprise laugh because there was a photograph of a woman who was VERY CLEARLY cosplaying as Lan Wangji from "The Untamed".

It's not a surprise that cosplayers go to fabric stores and buy patterns. In my ten years of experience or so with this stuff, the stereotypical middle-aged and old ladies who work there will often very happily tell you about their previous encounters with the cosplayers helping to keep them in business. I simply haven't been to a convention since before COVID and had not known that "The Untamed" had become THAT level of popular.

Delightful.

EDIT: Here's the link to the pattern I originally encountered and a link to the cosplayer's own website.

[sleepytoycollection]

When Quill Talyntino was formally introduced by Monster High I immediately fell in love with how adorable she was. Unfortunately, her introduction was tied to a poll on who got to be the next doll made, which she (understandably) lost to Finnigan Wake, another cool character and doll.

Despite this, at the time I had hoped that Monster High might make her eventually anyway, seeing as they had eventually released every doll from a previous poll.

Then G1 was cancelled. So any potential doll for Quill was lost. Oof.

At the time I didn't really feel like I had the skills to make her design myself, but I decided I still wanted her as a doll and gave it a stab.

The base doll is a Venus McFlytrap, and the wings are from an EAH Cupid doll. I rerooted her hair with embroidery floss, and sculpted her face feathers and distinct nose with milliput.

As I wasn't the biggest fan of her cannon dress, I decided to change it up by making it a modified hanfu, with a pattern by DGRequium on etsy. The only part of their pattern I changed was the skirt, to make it a bit more like her dress in the show. I was going to giver her boots, but didn't have any spare ones that fit and wasn't about to pay a fortune for some off ebay, so I just created the vibe with long socks and Raven Queen shoes.

I think she turned out really cute and I'm so happy I was finally able to add Quill to my collection.