#Cars Simplified

[lazychimken]

What is Bumblebee and bulkheads relationship in the age swap au? Just curious,also Arcee and Ratchet as well

I answered what Bumblebee’s and Bulkhead’s relationship is like here, so let’s go with Arcee and Ratchet!

In this au Arcee is a mechanic in training instead of an intelligence officer to help her fit in better with the whole Omega Supreme situation. She is here by convenience, as she wants to gain some credits (money?) to fund her true passion of becoming a teacher. As such, she doesn’t really take her work seriously which goes against Ratchet’s personality initially.

I know her personality here differs a lot from the og series, but to be fair she didn’t even have that much of a personality there to begin with due to all that memory erasing stuff 💀 imma just give her some of her bubbly yet deadpan personality.

Ratchet always had a bit of a short fuse, he had little patience with anyone. Which made his choice of career a shock to those who knew him because why would such a rude and impatient bot become a medic? Nevertheless, Ratchet was determined to become the best medic he could become, as within that persona of his he has a soft spark that cares deeply for the wellbeing of those around him. Arcee certainly put him to the test in the beginnings of their friendship however, as she was just as insistent on butting helms with Ratchet as he was to her.

But they managed to grow close during their time at the academy, and have even teamed up to catch a Decepticon stealing important Autobot medical records and blueprints 👀 It was during this escapade that Ratchet became aware of Arcee’s true passion of becoming a teacher and he sees that she cares for the safety of other bots just as much as he does. Arcee sees that Ratchet’s seemingly angry personality is just him being worried for others but doesn’t show it in a proper way.

Their newfound understanding of one another leads to them having a tight bond that can defeat any adversary in their way! Both Bumblebee and Optimus agree that the pair is a perfect inclusion for the team while stuck on Earth, even if they need practice fighting against the Decepticons.

[cardboardmoon]

Burger Saga part two

In hindsight this probably wasn’t a good idea

Anyway next week we see what Robby’s been up to

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[sirsparklepants]

Listen. I love all the Honda Odyssey porn as much as the next bitch but I think I'm potentially the only one who DOESN'T think they fucked then. Hear me out! I think it's SO much funnier if they literally fought until Wade passed out and then Logan took the time to tie him up so tightly it's like he was tucking him in for bed and then laid down to sleep next to him and they didn't even fuck first. Also, it's more fun for me personally if the sexual tension is just sublimated the whole movie. You kidnap a guy, let him intimately get to know your insides, literally combine atoms with him while a song about blowjobs plays, and take him home to meet your family and you STILL haven't fucked yet. It's hilarious.

[tangerinelabyrinth]

Martha Jones really is the strongest character in all of Doctor Who because you mean to tell me that after watching a man that you have feelings for erase his memory while making you take care of him in a time period you are not safe in for three months as you watch him fall in love with a racist woman that he later invites to travel with the two of you, you then have to turn around and work in a shop to support him while he does fuckall except record some videos because he got his "car" stolen by some "statues" and in the end all you get is a hug and a "thanks."

[fandomaddict505]

Fixing a road is hard work!

[myfootyrthroat]

I think the most annoying student usage of ChatGPT that I saw wasn't using it to generate writing, it was using it as a reference. (And not specific to GenAI or to students, but...)

People would come to me with a problem, show me what wasn't working, and I'd ask how they had even gotten to their starting point. Usually along the lines of:

Me: Wait, how did you figure out how to dilute this auxin? The rate seems really high. Student: I asked ChatGPT. Me: Wait, why? The usage rates are printed on the bottle, and in the grower guide. What did you ask ChatGPT? Student: I asked "How much Bonzi to use" and it said 6fl oz/gal.

And that just wouldn't be enough information/context for anything/anyone to correctly answer. (For reference, the actual usage rates for Bonzi vary between .0016 fl oz/gal and 6.4 fl oz/gal, depending on what the crop is, what it's being used for, and how it's being applied.) At least looking at the bottle or grower's guide, you'd probably be prompted "Oh, I need to specify that it's pansies, I'm trying to keep them short before blooming, and I'm doing a foliar spray." I was usually more confused why the first resource was any kind of search because the hardcopy reference information was literally right there.

[champmorado]

Got a real dozy of an art request.

Can ya doodle a bit of Long Ge and Vitaly Petrov at a zoo watching penguins?

thank you so much for sending a request!!!!

heres them watching some king planeguins ^_^

[shimera]

Ooh I guess I'm doing it... The post about car paint job from the worker's point of view.

Tiny disclaimer: I'm not an overly experienced professional (even tho I've been doing all this almost every day rn) and some things I'll mention may vary from workshop to workshop so yeah I'mma explain the way I've personally experienced this kind of job

Also I'm not talking about small touch-ups like a scratch or a small ship of some sort, this post is about going BIG starting from repainting a rusted corner of a door and to a fully new paint job like if you want to change the color of a whole car.

Don't feel obliged to follow all this in your fics and other works tho, I completely understand that sometimes you simplify stuff for the sake of the plot, and to be honest I do that too.

I also sincerely apologize if some of the terms aren't completely correct as english is not my first language

Warning: long post ahead

So, where do I start... Well, the whole process is in fact REALLY time consuming. You can do all the steps as fast as you can, yes, but still you'll be stuck with drying all the layers of the primer, base coat and clear coat anyway (this can be sped up with some infrared lamps and stuff but if you don't have these... Well, it is what it is). Also it usually takes at least 2-4 people to get the parts ready. Depending on your skills you can do it by yourself as well but for that you'd need to know how to disassemble and assemble a car, the process of preparing the parts you're gonna paint and master your painting skills to get the result you're looking for (plus sometimes you'll need to know how to weld and fix some big dents too). At my workplace all these jobs (except preparing the parts and painting them) are done by separate people, but as I said earlier, it may vary.

DEMOLISHING

First, you decide what are you going to take off the car and how much of it has to go. I'm not really involved in the process of it as I'm not a mechanic (fitter?), but yea usually you need to take off bumpers (especially if they're a part that's getting fixed and repainted), doors, hood, trunk and front&rear window glass are optional most of the time; if the hood or a door is getting painted we usually take it off. The trunk is also taken off to repaint but sometimes it can stay if there are parts close enough to it that get painted as well (for example, I've prepared a trunk and both of the rear fenders, so the trunk stayed on the car). Also most of the time the inner door panels are taken off when the door is painted, the window glass is optional but to avoid damaging it if something goes wrong we keep it in closed position or take it off; door handles always have to go separately. Oh and sometimes you'll have to take the wheels off too if they're gonna get in the way later on.

PROTECT ANYTHING THAT'S LEFT

So, the first step was successful: you figured out what, how and how much to disassemble and may think now you can start preparing the parts-- Oop, not so fast. Now you have to protect anything that you didn't take off and don't want to accidentally damage/get dirty. If the part is still on the car and any door opening is gonna be involved (and believe me, it most likely will) or they were taken off - you better cover the doorways with paper and masking tape, because you don't want the interior to get all dusty and filled with sand!! And the absolute best thing will be to cover all the remaining parts too (there are covers made for that but technically any overly huge plastic bag thingy will do) because you don't want the primer to leave any residue on them. Also you absolutely don't want to damage anything that's close to the repainted part so it's gets covered with some masking tape and/or reinforced tape - the more, the better, you can never be too careful, but remember that it's also kind of a time consuming process (sometimes it takes up to half a day to cover everything up if you're doing it alone, but most of the time it's from about twenty minutes to an hour or so)

REPAIRING AND SANDING

Finally you made it through this step too, congrats! Now the action begins: you need to get that baby ready to get a new paint job.

In my workplace the cars we paint almost every time have some chips (these can rust really well quite fast so it's important not to miss out any), scratches (they can show through the new paint if you don't sand them down completely) and of course some amount of rust, so first thing you want to do is to make sure none of it stays where it was. Most of the time you don't need to take all the paint amd primer off, so that's when you take an eccentric machine and start sanding away everything you want gone. Sometimes if the paint peels off by itself at some spots you have to sand all of it or it might start doing the same in the other spots. Sometimes you'll find out the car was already repaired and there are layers of putty there - if there's no signs of rusting underneath, you want to sand it as little as possible because the other option is to put it all back on by yourself AND make the shape of a part look like it's never been repaired, and it's not a simple task if you don't have years of experience behind your back.

The dents are treated depending on their size: if it's small enough you sand it until bare metal shows up and then cover up with some putty - make sure to really press it in so it won't sag after you finished everything. If it's big you grab some tools and fix it or call someone who knows how to fix those (that's my option at the moment sadly) and get them to fix it. Some putty still will be applied on top to make sure the detail is smooth just as new.

Sometimes it's necessary to wield parts that were too damaged. Sadly, I don't know much of it, but it's most likely a job for a couple hours or so (but there was a really fucked up extremely rusted car that's been in work for almost HALF A YEAR- yeah our wielder quit right after finishing the poor thing😭 and the car itself was released into the wild just a couple days ago). The thing I know tho is that even after sanding down everything you welded, you most likely still will have to cover it all up with putty because it won't be looking good without it. And make sure to use the right grit sandpaper because if it's too harsh it Will Absolutely Show Through after you paint it. Even if you did put some putty on top.

The rust itself may be treated a couple ways. If it's light enough that there are just some spots sitting on top of the metal then you just sand it down and call it a day. If it's so bad that chunks of metal are falling off by themselves or there are holes in it you call your wielder to cut the thing off and put a new piece of metal to cover the hole up. And if it's something in between, you go grab a sandblasting gun and all the protective gear you can find because it's about to get DIRTY. The process is quite simple: all you need to do is to connect the thing to a compressor, get yourself some clean fine sand (or else you'll be REALLY annoyed when you'll need to adjust it every ten seconds because some shit got stuck in it TRUST ME I KNOW (and also it can damage the equipment)) and start blasting the rust with it. But it's also really slow as the range of where the sand is hitting the metal is small, and you'll have to go over the same spot a couple times from different angles to really get all that rust removed. And if you blast a spot for too long it also may develop a bulge. After all this you also clean it all up and (optionally) add some putty on top. If you really want to get it extra protected you can first apply a layer of epoxy primer to the area you just relieved of rust and only after it's cured you can add the putty.

If you're working with bumpers tho it's best if you put as little putty on it as possible. These things are made to be flexible and the putty is not so it can and will fall off if any accidents that involve the bumper being squished happen. If you can sand that chip off - you do it. Also the fact of them being kind of flexible leads to paint developing some cracks that go deep through the layers and sometimes into the plastic as well. This mostly happens when it developed too many layers of paint over the years of repainting the thing, what leads to losing a lot of flexibility of the said paint, so while the bumper gets a hit and bounces back - the layers crack. And yeah if you see it you sand it down COMPLETELY or it will show through.

Last step is to make sure everything is smooth, the layers (top coat, base coat, primer and sometimes additional coats of paint from previous jobs) are stretched while sanding those (so there are no bumps there) and the grit of the sandpaper Was Small Enough because otherwise It Will Show Through.

PRIMER AND SANDING AGAIN

Now that you've got through the first round of sanding you need to put a coat of epoxy primer if there was bare metal involved and 2-5 coats of acrylic primer on top (both preferably two-component and applied with a spray gun). There's not much to say about this except that you most likely will need to do some additional masking. And if you do fuck up on this step (like overflow the paint at some spots that it starts dripping) it's still fixable: the second round of sanding is waiting for you just as finishes drying. The time of curing for the primer depends on it's type, manufacturer and the temperature you're working in, but mostl likely it's gonna take around 8 hours at the room temperature or around half an hour with the lamps.

Now that it's all cured the parts are ready to sand yet again - even if it was all perfect before you still need to make sure it's smooth, looks like it's supposed to look and has enough sandpaper scratches because the paint won't stick to a shiny-smooth surface. So sanding down it is - finer grit this time, but it is still necessary, especially if there were any repairs. The area you're going to sand this time (if just a part of a detail is going to be repainted) also is a lot bigger than you prepared at this point because to make it look as if there were no repaints at all the base coat and the top coat both need to be applied in a way that will not look bumpy. Also there are some steps to take if you've repaired some stuff there: first you sand the thing with your hands and a sanding block, and after that you get a finer grit sandpaper and - again - an eccentric machine and make sure you got all the previous scratches out or else It Will Show Through.

Finally, it's all ready - now you need just to rip most of the previous covers off, tape on some new ones adjusted to the new sanded area (takes a shit ton of time again and you better not miss this step) and you're ready to degrease the thing and FINALLY paint it. At this point depending on the equipment you've already spent around 1-3 days on the thing (including all the waiting and stuff. You absolutely can and will prepare other parts while you wait).

WOW YOU DID IT! NOW PAINT AND NOT DIE

I'm not really involved in the painting process yet (oh the lack of skill), but what I know about it is the fact that the white paint is the one which lets you get away with the biggest amount of mistakes of all. And if the paint has any shimmer/glitter in it... Well, it takes some skills to make it lay flat and not become a spotty mess (if you do fuck up at this point you'll have to repeat some sanding). Also the base coat is usually really thin as it only gives the color to a piece. The clear top coat is the one that's both the heaviest and the thickest because it's supposed to protect everything else. After applying all this you leave it to dry for around 17-24 hours (the more the better), assemble everything back together and technically you're done. Or are you?

MAKE IT SHINY

Now we've come to the additional step. Polishing. Some workshop do it, some don't. In my workplace we don't go an extra mile for it, but we still do polish the parts we painted to give it some extra shine and get rid of occasional dust that landed before painting process was finished and small drips of the top coat. First you sand these - and only these - down with a really fine grit sandpaper (preferably also wet) by hand and polish it until shiny again using different compounds and fur/foam discs and the machine almost like you've used before but this one has even more speed and power. Finding all the dust pieces especially on the big surfaces like a hood or a roof is quite a challenge - sometimes you will miss a couple and will have to go back a few steps back to sand them off. You should also rinse the car after the polishing because it gets quite dirty from time to time and these compounds are not very easy to get off when they dry.

Finally, everything is nice, smooth, shiny amd clean, and you can finally say you're done! Thanks for reading everyone, I hope you learned something useful today! If I missed out on something, feel free to ask any questions, I'll do my best to clear all that up for you!

[dennistakesamentalhealthday]

his mommy is a skeleton btw. if you care

[silentsialia]

I am a person who graduated from a top 20 university in the whole United States. Less than 10% acceptance rate, a hundred thousand applicants but only like 3 thousand get accepted, the whole shebang. I might suffer from a bit of imposter syndrome at times, but I can assure you I was "smart" enough to get into the school with my credentials alone. With that being said, even if I had the money and resources, I don't think I could ever be "smart" enough to drive an f1 car. Just trying to understand the basic car parts and physics for f1 cars is very complicated to me. I may have gotten a good education but I don't nor will I ever possess the range to have good technical knowledge about F1 cars.

[kindchenschema]

cuddy and house are thirteen's parents who also have sex with her. once again welcome to class

[theomaru]

i made a 3d model of my friend autobot saboteur jazz :D

im going to try and use him as a base to make a bunch more :3

[chibikittens]

Me after Gnosia: ...maybe someday I can recover from this TT^TT

ORV: I think the fuck not

[whoops-lost-the-ranger]

Transformers Five Pebbles scribble

[bluejaysfeathers]

The other tip is to always keep track of “what should this person already know?” To use a really basic example, if someone calling is really from my car insurance, they should be able to tell me what car, right? Like at least the basic shit like model and year. But they won’t, and they can’t, because they don’t know, and they’re hoping I’ll tell them- or at least just not ask questions. Start with your own baseline of evidence, and as OP noted don’t let them trick you into accepting something else instead.

Something to watch for, which I learned from stage magic but which is extremely relevant to detecting scams as well:

The magician or scammer will *tell you* how he is going to prove his honesty.

The magician rifles through the deck until you say "stop", then he says, "Are you sure? I'll keep going if you want." and asks "Now, you agree that you could have stopped anywhere you wanted, so there's absolutely no way I could know which card you got" and because it's a magic show and you aren't paying close attention you didn't notice he didn't deal a card from where you stopped, he dealt the bottom card of the deck.

The magician doesn't ask you, "What would it take for you to believe this" because you might say, "I'd need you to use a sealed deck" or "I'd have to personally shuffle the deck" or some other proof that would make the trick impossible.

Magicians say "You agree that if I did *this*, it would mean *that*, right?" and you say yes, and it feels like you are the one who got to verify things, but of course the magician is lying and the proof is nothing of the kind.

Scammers do the same thing. A really concrete example is phone scammers pretending to be working for the government will say, "Look, I see you're skeptical if I'm who I say I am, I'm going to hang up and call back, and you'll see on the caller ID it says, 'FBI' and that tells you that I'm really working for the government."

Now, caller ID can be spoofed pretty easily, so it doesn't prove anything at all.

But it *feels* to you like you demanded proof and the scammer was willing to give you the proof.

But you didn't tell the scammer what out would take to prove it to you, the scammer told you what the proof would be.

This is actually like a really basic thing to look for if you want to start decoding magic tricks and scams.

[david-watts]

are you English

how do I answer this. well. I'm australian, and whilst there is a lot of english heritage in me my family has always been closer to the scottish side of the tree than the english side. but that happens when they disown you. unfortunately it's a little more difficult to forget when you look in the mirror and see the resemblance to them lmao