#Double Chain Sewing Machine

[just-a-sketchbook]

First Quilt!

It has been a lot of fun and a lot of trial and error but it's done!!!

It's roughly 1.20 x 1.20m (which is a number of feet I can't be bothered to look up but let's say it's about child sized and it'll be great to chill on the couch).

I want to thank @langdon813 who I've never talked to (sorry if you hate being tagged) but whose gorgeous Drunkard path quilts made me wanna do it too :)

I had never done any quilting before (but I did sew), so here's what I've learned, if any beginner is interested in jumping off the deep end the way I did and wants advice from someone who has freshly acquired experience but will also not use any confusing technical terms (with pictures!) :

Fabric picking : so most advice I read was to go for pre-selected bundles of fabric that already go together, but I'm contrary and like to do my own thing so I used wax fabric (the blue ones on top the pile) I had laying around, which I strongly recommend: it's very easy to cut due to it being waxed, and I added a few fat squares from the shop, plus I also had the orange and blue floral and I based the coulour scheme on it. One thing that's true is it would have been easier to work with fabric of the same thickness, and the floral was givne to me by my ma who got in on trip to Thailand and it was alot thinner than the rest which didn't help.

Cutting: I got a rotary cutter for the occasion and it's great! Do not maybe push too hard on it and give yourself nerve damage the way I did (temporary but still), it's actually ery sharp and easy to use, so long as your template doesn't slip you're fine

Piecing :Yes you can do curved piecing even if you have zero experience, you just gotta make a template and

pin it a lot.

1/4 inch margins is the standard so I rolled with it because I don't like converting, but when you're strictly metric it is kind of annoying but doable because my machine does have a 1/4 inch mark and if you stick a length of tape along it it's pretty easy to follow, even for curved piecing.

Layout: At some point you've got to decide the layout is done, because I've re-arranged the blocks at least 6 times and it's a very good way to go insane. (For rough reference, my plan was to have no repeat fabrics in any of the circle-in-a-square blocks, and I only made one mistake which I clocked too late to change)

Chain piecing!! Meaning you pile your blocks together in a specific order (that I personnaly wrote straight up on each piece with a very sophisticated letter/numbers down/across system) and then just sew them together in a line without having to cut the thread between each pair. Looks a little like a fanion banner and at some point it feels like you'll be forever tangled into it but then it's magic :) It's not that hard actually and will save you a lot of time + there's a lot of online tutorials you can use.

Basting! (which it took me while to understand is the part where you attach the backing, the fluff and the quilt top together) : you need more safety pins. Safety pins will save you from the wrinkles and the unfortunate oopsies of realising you've caught your backing double folded into your quilting stitch, which I did a good three times and was not fun to undo. Also, I forgot to tape the backing to the floor and it probably would have helped with the wrinkling...

Backing : I used an old linen table cloth I got for 10€ at a charity shop, and I've still got about 2/3 of it left, so I recommend that, it's sturdy but soft enough, doesn't thread easily and can be washed at very high temps, if that's a thing you do.

Quilting! Well, my machine came with a quilting foot for free motion quilting (which means you're the one moving the fabric along in whichever direction and you can sort of draw with your stitches) and it seemed fun so I did that, and here's what I learned : curves are hard but doable, also my machine doesn't like to go back (kept skipping sitiches for some reason) so it involves a lot of shifting the quilt around, which isn't easy considering the bulk. And also, drawing the quilting pattern you want so you can follow it while quilting actually does help, I used an iron/heat-erasable pen and it worked just fine. Check your stitch tension, mine was too loose and I realised too late so there's spots where I could pull on the thread and it looped, had to stitch back over that.

Quilitng pattern : I wasn't sure what to do, supposedly your batting (aka: the fluff) comes with instructions on how tight you should quilt to avoid it coming apart through use but I got mine cut at the fabric shop and forgot to ask so I just rolled with a rough 10cm maximum distance in between stitching lines but tried to do less in most places. According to many blogs : the tighter your lines the stiffer your quilt, so I kept it loose for comfort. (Picture is halfway done, I added a smaller square/circle inside each square/circle and if you look at it you'll see it's actually diagonal lines form one end of the fabric to the other.)

Binding is boring, and there's nothing to it. I got a length of pre-cut bias binding, machine-sewed it front to front to the quilt top side of the quilt and the folded it back and secured it by hand to the back with a ladder stitch. Took me roughly and entire rewatch of the Last Of Us. There's a trick to doing the corners that's fairly simple but I've lost the tutorial...

Overall : I got myself a quilting book with techinques and such and it helped, but there's a ton of stuff online, and once you get over the very Christian American mum vibe of most of the blogs, it's all very helpful (and gorgeous!) (no offense meant to Christian American mums, it's just a bit of a culture shock from where I'm standing).

[trishmishtree]

The more time I spend sewing my own clothes, the more I've come to accept that I have a stupidly short waist, and no commercial pattern, modern or historical reproduction, ever fits me right (except, like, empire waist dresses)... so say hello to the 1890s inspired waistcoat that I self-drafted using a modern princess seam bodice patten!

It took a mockup or two, but I think it got me there faster than a commercial pattern would have, since the base princess seam pattern already fit me (traced off an existing modern dress I own). Besides, a lot of the components are already there, including those curvy front darts, which is what you get if you take a princess bodice pattern and tape together the front and side-front pieces from the shoulder down to the apex of the bust but then leave the rest of the seam open like a dart. (We're not going to talk about the fit of the back because I still need to do a swayback adjustment to my bodice block. Someday I will make a matching puffy-sleeved Eton jacket to wear over it and then we'll never need to see this wrinkly ill-fitting back again. )

The design of the waistcoat is based on the Truly Victorian and Black Snail 1890s waistcoat patterns. I don't buy TV patterns, ever (owing to some racist comments the owner made and then doubled down on a few years ago about the Costume College "silk road" theme), and Black Snail has a habit of automatically factoring 2 inches of waist reduction into the final garment (which really doesn't work with my skeletal structure and inability to reduce my waist, and only added to my fears of trying to fit that pattern to my stupid short torso).

I'm wearing the skirt and waistcoat over my Elphaba shirtdress from last month and the period-appropriate underpinnings (chemise, c0rset, hip padding, and petticoat--oh, and I made sleeve supports to keep those puffed shirt sleeves from collapsing). I also added extra stays inside the waistcoat to give it more structure so it can also be worn without a c0rset (my waist measures the same with or without one anyway) or over modern clothes if I ever wanted to do that.

There's also a little welt pocket on the left side for a pocket watch and chain. The pocket was a last minute addition, and it kind of shows. If I had been planning ahead, I would've moved the dart placement more medially to give the pocket more room to exist and not be shoved so far to the side. I'll have to make a note on my pattern to fix that for next time.

Entire thing is 100% hand sewn because my machine is still on the fritz. This is only my second attempt at tailoring, but I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out.

[spectre-ship]

the waistcoat I mentioned in my last sewing projects post! since this has a lot more moving parts and involved some more complex work than the shirts, this was something of a practice exercise, so I did it with a kinda cheap print from a quilting fabrics store. since I had a lot of fun with this I plan to make more in blue and red/gold fabrics that I have, which will hopefully, unlike the print, not leave little white marks everywhere a needle pokes through.

big note for next time is to try and pay more attention to the pocket welts (the little strips that cover the opening), since the pattern doesn't quite match up on either of them & the attachment is a bit shoddy.

...but a very exciting note for next time, or the time after, whenever I use the red/gold fabric, is that I will be using these:

these brass buttons were dated to the late 1830s by the antiques store I bought them at (a cursory Google suggests that button enthusiasts concur.) there are seven in total, which is a couple more than I need for the front closure, so I might see about making that one double-breasted and keep the seventh around for a spare or memento or what have you. hang it off my watch chain maybe.

also, it's a bit too dark to get a good image of it right now, but soon I'll have a picture to share of my "new" sewing machine! I mostly plan to use it for seams and other concealable structural elements--hand finishing is too much fun & provides too neat of a finish for me to give it up.

[averixus]

I made a t-shirt! It was quite a simple project, but it's the first time I've worked with jersey so it was an adventure.

I drafted the pattern mostly based on an existing t-shirt that I like. The fabric is 100% cotton interlock jersey. After one brief frustrating attempt to use solid chalk to mark the fabric, I got some chalk wheel pens which are amazing. And I used a rotary cutter which was great too, I think scissors on stretchy fabric would have been horrible.

I did all the sewing using my mini vintage chain stitch machine that I restored last year.

My brother made a t-shirt a while back and told me that he struggled most with applying the binding to the collar, so I decided to just.. not do that. Some of my commercially-made t-shirts just have a double-folded hem at the collar and I like the look of that anyway so that's what I went for. I hemmed the front and back pieces separately first, before joining them at the shoulders.

Because of the shape of the collar, I had to notch the hem allowance at the corners which means there's some exposed raw edge inside, which I regret. Next time I'll adust the curve of the collar so it's shallow enough that the fabric can roll over without needing to be cut.

I like the way the finished collar looks from the outside though.

I decided to do all the construction with french seams to protect the raw edges (since I'm not overlocking or zigzagging anything). But it was actually kind of a nightmare, because the tiny machine can't cope with all the layers of fabric where two seams or seam+hem intersect. I had to keep re-doing the parts where the seams cross, and even had to resort to manually moving the thread into the right part of the mechanism from underneath the machine on every stitch just to get through the hard parts without it snapping yet again. Next time I'll give up on the french seam and maybe just do an extra line of stitching to reinforce the edges.

I'm also not totally happy with the shape and fit of the sleeves, the armpit area is a bit tight and weird. I think the sleeve openings just need to be bigger, so I need to reshape the armscye on the pattern for next time.

I'm pleased overall though. I learned a lot and I got a definitely wearable t-shirt out of it. :)

[hidefdoritos]

Today's Mending

So, today is the third day I'm down with Covid. Or maybe-Covid. The campus nurse says there's been something similar going around campus, and anyone who's seen a doctor has tested negative. So did I, though I feel exactly like the past 3 times. Whatever. I'm staying away from people, wearing a mask into the bathroom and laundry room, getting takeout from the dining hall, and doing my best to recover.

I'm not well enough to sit up at my sewing machine yet, so I've been a floor goblin today. In the meager patch of sunlight that comes through our window, I've been putting the "slow" in "slow fashion."

First we have this shirt. I thrifted a small shirt that said "ADHD is awesome" and had a little squirrel. I cut out the graphics, intending to sew them onto this shirt. However, within about 15 minutes, I lost them in my own room. I find this ironic. So, while I wait for them to turn back up, I painted a wiggly dashed line all over the back as a squirrel trail.

The pocket of this hoodie had a little hole.

Ladder stitching a t-shirt armpit.

A couple tiny holes appeared in some work sweats.

I found a tiny hole in this hoodie sleeve, so now there's a tiny mend.

Snagged this shirt on a bin at work and tore an L-shaped hole.

The serging by the pocket of my base layer leggings started to come out.

Finally, these are both thrifted statement necklaces. I took the pendants off and doubled or tripled the chain, and added a loop for the fastener to hook onto.

That's about it for today. I'm gonna go get take-out dinner from the dining hall and then probably go to bed as the sun sets.

[bitstitchbitch]

fun fact - handmade, sustainable clothing is expensive for a reason! I just spent $90 on cheapish 100% wool yarn that is probably-hopefully enough for a crocheted sweater (I should have bought another 1-2 balls, but planned poorly). This is yarn from a good-sized company - it was manufactured, not hand spun or dyed to my knowledge. Hand-dyed / spun yarn is double that cost, easily. Again, this is just the yarn. A good crochet hook is around $10. Add another couple of bucks for stitch markers and other misc. tools. Patterns can be bought, found online for free, or you can make your own which is what I’m doing. Working without a pattern requires more time - I spent ~1.5 hours today making test swatches just to decide stitch and gauges. Now consider that higher quality yarn comes in hanks, not the pre-wound balls that you usually find in Michael’s or Joann’s. I wind by hand, so that takes 1.5-2 hours to do all six balls. And only once all of this is done can I begin to make my sweater. Which will probably take 20+ hours. So add in labor costs, let alone profit margins and other business expenses and you start to see why most people don’t sell large crochet items. Not many people want to pay over $300 for a sweater (and remember, this is cheapish wool yarn at $14 / 219 yards, not $30 / 150 yards of hand dyed cashmere, so double the cost if we’re talking premium materials).

Hell I made a crochet afghan with cheap cheap acrylic yarn (literally what you find in Michael’s). $75 materials, but it took me 120+ hours of work and the base cost (labor + materials) would be at least $1000 before profit margin. Then consider that it took me over 9 months to finish. I love that afghan. It’s going to last my whole lifetime. I have similar afghans that my great and great great grandmothers passed down to me - it’s literally an heirloom item. I have no regrets about spending all that time and money on it. But holy fuck, it would not be worth it as a business venture.

I guess my belated point is, consider this the next time you complain about the cost of sustainable, ethically produced clothing. And consider that sustainable clothing usually has more longevity if properly cared for. You can usually thrift for immediate needs and save up for those long lasting items! Just never buy crochet items from a store. It’s such a scam. If the price is affordable, it’s probably unethical (small items are still sketchy, but if it’s local business and not a chain you might be okay - some people can make money off crochet if they’re making small items). There are other methods of sustainable clothing production that can produce cheaper items (machine knitting for example, and even sewing is typically faster) but materials are almost always going to come at a premium and hand sewn/ knitted / crochet is going to be even more so.

[digeethegenie]

Under The Fury's Eye

MSQ Adaptation

Events of Lv 50. - "Divine Intervention"

DRK ARR Questline

A still recovering Yujo is called to the defense of Alphinaud and Tataru when they are accused of hearsay.

CW: Language, Verbal Abuse of a Minor, Depiction of a Panic Attack

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Once again, Yujo found herself alone with her thoughts.

The only thing separating her and the halls of Ishgardian justice was an ornate set of double doors.

It was bad enough that milk-sup idiot, Alphinaud, had gotten himself accused of heresy for snooping around in the school yard, but he just had to drag Tataru into his mess as well.

When she got her hands on him- Yujo thought to herself- she was going to make absolutely sure he knew exactly where he stood, and- when she was done with him- that he was a foot shorter than her.

"'My' Warrior of Light." she uttered under her breath with disdain, shaking her head.

She replayed Alphanaud's bragging on endless loop in her mind.

The prologue to the Scions' downfall.

Each detail of Alphinaud's foolish scheme replayed in her mind, slower each time. The more she thought about it, the more each moment stretched, taut with the gravity of impending failure.

She should have strangled the idea of a fourth, independent, grand company in the cot. Just one rebuke, sewing the seed of doubt Alphinaud mind would have sufficed.

The words, festering with the poison of hindsight, bubbled up her throat like bile. "Alph, I've seen the play you took the name from. The Zodiac Brave Story? The airship that the final battle happens on explodes, killing everyone. Naming ourselves after the victims of an airship explosion is just asking for it."

But no. Instead, She stood by- encouraged it, even-, and watched as he fashioned the noose around the Scion's necks, and kicked the platform from under foot.

She felt her teeth clench, her jaw aching from the pressure. "Stupid… mother-latched milk-sup, know-nothing, lordling…" The last words erupted from her lips like steam escaping a kettle at full boil. Her words hissed through clenched teeth, like steam straining against the confines of a kettle at boiling point. With a sharp kick at the empty air, she released but a fragment of her pent-up anger.

"Arsehole!"

Just as the cuss came out from her mouth, Yujo could hear a similar ring echo in her ear. Her heart skipped a beat. It was her linkpearl, ringing a sound that was so familiar but yet so alien in it's prolonged silence. Wearing it had become a habit, more decorative than functional since it was disconnected from the Scions' network. It wasn't even attuned into any network. It was more the symbol of some forlorn hope on her end that a member of the Scions had escaped the monetarists' wrath and would call her for help. She needed an excuse- 'any excuse'- to escape from this whole gilded of a country. To break free of the golden chains of political machinations, and do something that mattered again, and fight back against the shadows she knew still lurked in the corners of Eoreza.

She pressed her finger against the linkpearl, and pushed it deep into her ear to take the call.

"H-Hello?" she asked, her voice trembling with trepidation, barely registering a whisper. In the darkest part of her mind, she half-expected silence- a cruel trick played by her strained senses- and yet, she clung on desperately for the hope of a voice- any voice- of someone who mattered.

'Yuyujo.'

A coldness washed over her, one that pierced with more bite than even the chill of the snow-covered walls that enclosed her. Even as the linkperl whispered a soft static- a reminder of its disconnection- Fray's penetrating voice came through, clear and sharp. She was watching. Silent, unseen, but undeniably present through the linkperl, her presence making whatever small motes of candlelight in the room bow before it. In turn, the shadows around Yujo's tiny lalafell body grew more dense, and oppressive.

She had made it clear, even in her silence, that she was always watching.

'I, too, shall be in the stands. I expect to see progress in your training today.'

"Well, yes. B-but I won't be-"

'Yes, yes. You will be using those Martial Artes of yours, and even in your weakened state, you can absolutely beat up a couple of self-important religious thugs. Besides that, deploying my dark artes in a holy tribune is suicide by rank stupidity. The milk-sup's way of things.'

Hearing the derogatory slang out of someone else's mouth- even if it was something she had just muttered to herself- made it quite clear how rude and awful it sounded.

And yet, she couldn’t argue with it, not really.

'The wildwood brute that levied the accusations against the brat and the moppet- Grinnaux- was the one that tried to put me to the sword. He certainly gave it his worst, but… well… we both know how that went.'

Yujo nodded.

'He will be too busy beating the shite out of the milk-sup to notice you. Your opponent will be his second. You're the moppet's champion, after all.'

"I don't see how-"

'I want you to take them 'both' out.'

"But isn't that-"

'I know what I said, Yuyujo. Take them both out. No mercy. The rules don't protect you- they bind you, and make you watch as they gleefully destroy what you love. Every. Single Time.'

Yujo bit into her bottom lip at that point. Fray was right.

'Don't be sloppy. Use every trick you have as a martial artist. You have one task. Tear. Your Opponents. Apart. Am I clear?'

"I- Yes."

'Good. You will overcome this trail and it will not be close. Make sure you don't have to do it a second time, understood?'

The call cut itself short, and Yujo was on her own again.

As the linkpearl's static faded, a heavy silence fell over Yujo. She paced across the dimly lit room, each step a battle between fear and resolve. The weight of what she must do pressed down on her, as tangible as the fingerless gloves that protected her fists.

She didn't know what to make of it. Fray was right- she was always right. Yujo had absolutely let herself be led by others- even those with good intentions Minfilia, and Nanamo- and it was high time that came to an end.

It was her decision to leave Spira. She walked out on the Archery guild when she could no longer tolerate the offensive nonsense spewing out of Silvairre's mouth. She agreed, with a handshake, to join the Scions.

She decided, believing she had all the time on the star, not to not return to the Waking Sands immediately after she defeated Titan.

…

Fray was right- she was always right.

"… So I clam the right to name a champion!"

Hearing Tataru's terrified squeak- vaguely following the script that Haurchefant had trained her and Alphinaud to recite during this trial- pulled Yujo back to reality.

"Very well." the adjudicator announced. "To the old, the infirm, the young, and the weak, this right we allow. And who will stand for this woman and fight in the name of her innocence?"

Oh well—Yujo thought to herself—whatever reservations she had needed shoving right to the back of her mind. She could wallow in her self-loathing about it later.

'Or never', she could imagine Fray arguing. 'Never sounds good.'

"I will!"

At her call, the doors opened, and Yujo walked through.

Alphinaud's expression betrayed his surprise; he hadn’t been sure if Yujo would answer the summons. Tataru's face, in contrast, lit up with relief and gratitude, glad that her fellow Lalafell had come to her aid.

After a brief consultation with his fellow judges, the Adjudicator raised his hand solemnly. "O, Halone, render unto us Your Judgment!" he proclaimed, invoking the ceremonial words as the pit separating the court's benches from the judge's row was bridged by platforms cranking into place from both sides.

"Thank you, Yujo. I will do what I can to support you." Alphinaud began, his voice tinged with hopeful determination. "Now, let us teach these noble sers the folly of—"

"Stop." Yujo raised her hand, cutting him off sharply. "I'm not here to wipe your arse. I'm here to save Tataru." Positioning herself, she adopted the coeurl stance, her eyes scanning the forming arena.

"Just stay out of my way."

"Right," Alphinaud replied, a flicker of hurt crossing his features as he opened his tome. "Sorry."

Yujo took a deep breath and exhaled, her breath slowly escaping as a vapor. 'No more games. No more politics' she thought, her fingers flexing inside her gloves. 'It's just me, these two brutes, and Tataru's freedom.'

"Raise up, those who are righteous," Proclaimed the Adjudicator "And cast down the wicked!"

Grinnaux, a tall- even by elezen standards- dark skinned man, smirked, and readied himself to strike Yujo. "This is too easy. I will enjoy pealing this upstart brat open. Teach her the truth of things."

His second, Ser Paulcrain- also an elezen, of the Heavensward, but a lighter complexion- shook his head and readied his spear by pointing it at Yujo's direction. "Just focus on your target. The lalafell is mine. Go play with the boy."

A grunt of annoyance rumbled out of the brute. "But it was you who… Humph. Waste of my bloody time. Come on then, Brat!"

Alphinaud made the first move by jumping back and firing a couple of bolts at Grinnaux. The magic glanced off his opponents armor, leaving barely an impression.

He barely had the chance to utter something to the effect of "Oh Shi—" before the bull charged him. Alphinaud's face registered shock as the brute’s charge connected, hurling his body across the arena like a ragdoll. He hit the ground hard, his tome scattering beside him, pages fluttering wildly as if a chobobo had been caught in a sudden gale.

"Alphinaud!" Tataru called out, her voice tinged with panic for the boy.

Yujo caught sight of Grinnaux's devastating attack out of the corner of her eye as she was avoiding Paulcrain's spear jabs. Even with all the hatred for Alphinaud that had festered inside her over the last six months, she knew she couldn't leave him to his fate. She turned her attention to Grinnaux, readied herself to flash-step over to the Bull, and—

'Stop.'

The command ringing clear in her ear gave made her hault mid-action. Continuing to wave through Paulcrain's thrusts, she quickly scanned the the arena's viewing gallery.

And then she saw Her.

Fray, as she had promised, In full view.

Why was she…?

Why wasn't anyone…?

'I have not changed my mind. Yuyujo. You can let The Bull chew the cud for a little bit. Focus on Paulcrain.' Fray's voice was calm. Dispassionate.

Yujo found herself caught between the instinct to rescue and the directive to focus on her immediate threat. Her every movement was a delicate dance to avoid Paulcrain's deadly spear.

"I can't just let him-"

'He 'deserves' this, Yuyujo. A couple of broken bones will serve well to remind him the game he is playing. Focus on Paulcrain.'

Grinnaux, watching the scene unfold, allowed a dirty, undignified grin to cross. "Let's just put this to bed, already." From under his armor he pulled out a chain, he took his attention away from Alphinaud, and whirled it over his head to prepare it with aetheric energy.

The grin growing manic, he threw the chain at the distracted Yujo. Seeing what was happening, Alphinaud gritted his teeth, and willed every thing in his body to pushing himself up to stand up.

"Yujo!" he shouted pushing off the ground with desperate effort.

With a solid shove, he sent Yujo sprawling to the ground and narrowly clear of Grinnaux's attack. The chain, missing it's intended target, whipped around like a snake hunting for pray, and wrapped around Aphinaud, closing around him in a vice grip. As they dug deep into his flesh, Alphinaud could only cry out in horrific pain as he struggled like a animal caught in the viper's grip.

"Yujo!" Tataru shouted out as Yujo pulled herself together, "Alphinaud's in trouble"

Alphinaud's cries became even more pained as the chains coiled tightly around him. The sounds were punctuated by the sickening pop of joints cracking, drawing her attention back to his suffering.

Yujo turned her attention to the stands, to Fray, desperate for her permission.

Instead she met the burning gaze of her mentor's red eyes, piercing into the back of her soul.

'Leave. Him.'

At the cold, heartless, command of her teacher, memories overwhelmed Yujo like a dam bursting open.

Every failure, every victim, every loss pressed down on her, threatening to swallow her whole. The victims of the Rising Sands massacre. Livia, Rhitahtyn, Gaius. G'raha. Nanamo, sprawled on the floor, her body ravaged by poison. Rahbuan, broken and mutilated. The other Scions—

"I… can't!"

The faces of the dead blurred into Fray’s veiled visage, her gaze knowing and damning, burning with red intensity. ‘You have failed everyone you've met,’ her master's voice hissed. ‘Will you fail yourself?’

Yujo closed her eyes tight, steadying her breath as her teeth ground together. She had reached the line she would not cross. The decision weighed heavy in her chest, but it was, undeniably, hers.

"No."

Grinnaux sneered at Yujo’s hesitation, mistaking it for weakness. "Some champions you two turned out to be." He spat in contempt. "Oh well, time to skin the rabbits!" he said, ready to pull on the chain, drag Alphinaud into range, and put his axe through him.

Alphinaud, bound, desperate, and in termandous pain, could only clench his teeth, and brace for a swift end.

“Grinnaux, to your side!” came Paulcrain's panicked cry.

Instead of Alphinaud’s screams, the crowd heard a sickening crunch. Grinnaux’s axe clattered to the ground as he clutched his nose, shattered by Yujo’s powerful soaring kick. The chains loosened and fell slack as their master staggered backwards in shock.

Silence fell over the arena, all eyes on the Lalafell who now stood beside Alphinaud, the air still crackling with the force of her intervention.

"Y-Yujo!" Alphinaud managed to sputter, surprise etched across his face.

"I'm borrowing this," Yujo stated matter-of-factly, as with a swift motion, she untied the blue ribbon that bound his silver hair. His hair cascaded freely as she pulled the ribbon taut in front of her, then gestured provocatively at Paulcrain—an invitation to come closer, to engage her directly.

"You upstart cow!" Paulcrain yelled, thrusting his spear forward. Yujo sprang into her counter, leaping up to plant both feet on the spear's shaft and crossing her arms. In a fluid motion, she looped Alphinaud's ribbon around Paulcrain's face. He howled in blind terror as she yanked the ribbon taut, using it to catapult herself forward. She loosened her grip just long enough for the knight to glimpse her pulling her head back. Then, with a thunderous crack, she delivered a decisive headbutt straight to his face.

He slumped to the ground, his spear falling beside him. Yujo landed lightly on her feet, staring down at his crumpled form.

“Well, that’s one down, at least.”

Yujo could tell, without needing to look up, that Fray was not impressed.

The red mists of rage descending over him. Grinnaux roared and grabbed his axe, swinging it down on the ground with brutal force to strike the lalafell.

Yujo effortlessly leapt aside. Before he could even register his miss, she launched herself at his neck with a flying knee press. Despite his towering height, the Bull crashed to the ground.

Still perched atop his neck, Yujo looked at him, fixed him with resentful eyes- dark, stagnant pools of nothing- and drew her clenched hand back.

For the first time in his life- one that had no want but for his own brutish desires, one that allowed him to do whatever he pleased under the shelter of his house-leading uncle's coin- The Bull was intimate with Fear.

"Don't…"

Her fist shot past his head and slammed into the ground. An instant later, it erupted into a crater around them.

Grinnaux stared, transfixed, at the tiny fist—smaller than half his own—that had shattered stone. When he looked back at Yujo, her chilling gaze made it clear: that could have been his skull.

She said nothing at first, letting the silence choke him. Then, a single word:

"Yield."

As he lay, his smallclothes now damp and reeking of stale ale, The Bull had no option but to submit, his voice soaked in horror.

The crowd could only utter amongst each other in hushed tones, astounded at the sight of two of the Heavensward, the Archbishop's own personal guard, having been bested- not just that, laid low- by a lalafell.

Finally, the Adjudicator lifted his hand. "This trail is over, and The Fury has spoken! Alphinaud Leveilleur, Tataru Taru. You are hereby acquitted of all charges."

Realizing what had just happened, Tataru perked up. "W-We Won? I-I mean, YES! WE WON!"

"Blessed are we who receive of Her wisdom, and see justice wrought by Her divine hand! Petitioners, accused, go forth in peace!"

Slowly, the crowd began to murmur and file out of the tribunal hall, their appetite for Ishgardian justice sated.

Yujo slowly eased herself off of the blubbering Grinnaux, short on breath, and weak in the knees. Her mind was a mess. She wasn't even sure if she call this a victory.

She noticed Alphinaud's hand, an offer to the Warrior of Light up. She looked at the hand, and then Alphinaud. Slowly, hesitantly, she reached towards the hand.

Inches away from taking his hand, the visions struck again.

"My Warrior of Light," echoing over and over in her head. His tone twisted with each repetition, growing more malicious until it hammered at her skull, relentless and cruel, until—

With a hard, sharp, crack, she slapped the hand away. The sound echoed in the now silent arena. Without uttering a word, she turned and walked off, each step becoming heavier than the last.

Alphinaud, left dumbstruck, could do nothing but watch her go. Tataru approached, placing a gentle, reassuring hand on his back.

Two guards approached and motioned for them to return to the defendant’s chambers. They obeyed, Tataru's stride far more steady and sure with the danger past.

All the while, Fray lingered, watching the scene with burning eyes before she vanished into what was left of the dispersing crowd.

= = =

"What were you thinking?!" Fray's slicing roar echoed in the defendant's chambers.

Alphinaud shrunk back, reduced to trembling at the Dark Knight's imposing figure as she leaned in on him.

"This is not a game, Alphinaud Leveilleur!"

He didn't dare meet her gaze, his eyes settling instead on Yujo, who stood silently beside Fray, her expression unreadable.

The Dark Knight's voice cracked as she threw her hand towards Tataru. "Every time you do something like this, you put people's lives at risk!"

The outburst sparked a raw nerve in Yujo. Her hands trembled as they rose and found purchase in her hair, fingers raking through her head in frustration, desperate to find the source of her woes from within her blonde locks, and tear it out.

She barely noticed Alphinaud flinch, or how Tataru's eyes widened at the rebuke.

"Seven Hells, Alphinaud!" Fray continued, unbridled fury in her voice. "People- No! OUR FRIENDS!- HAVE died because of your recklessness!"

"I… actually… It's… It's my fault." Tataru’s quivering yet determined voice interjected.

Fray spun around to face Tataru, the fire in her eyes dimming, if only slightly. The lalafellin secretary stood, her trembling fists clenched at her sides, and on the verge of tears.

"Those knights started a fight in the Forgotten Knight," She explained. "I… I tried to help an au ra man and an elezen girl out of the pub, and they caught me. Alphinaud… he jumped to my defense. They used his research at the Scholasticate as an excuse to accuse him of heresy."

Fray tilted her head. "An au ra man… and an elezen girl?" she asked, her tone softened. The question lingered in the air, as she tried to remember why that was important. Suddenly, she shook her head and her frustrations bubbled up again. With a stark and heavy sigh, she pulled Alphinaud's ribbon out of her pocket, and threw it his feet.

"Just… Just get out of my face, Alphinaud."

He stooped down to pick up the ribbon, muttered something inaudible, and retreated. Tataru hesitated, glancing back at Yujo with concern before quietly slipping out after him, the door closing with a soft thud behind her.

Silence pressed in, thick and stifling. Fray rubbed the bridge of her nose and sighed wearily, her frustration palpable.

'That goes for you too, Yuyujo.'

Yujo looked up, startled. There was Fray again, leaning against the chamber wall with arms crossed and crimson glare fixed on her. It felt as though the woman had always been there, looming in Yujo’s periphery, waiting for this moment.

'I distinctly remember telling you 'not' to save the milk-sup from The Bull. And what do you do?'

"I know," Yujo muttered with her voice trembling with guilt, head bowed slightly. "I didn’t think… I just… my body just moved on its own. I'm not any happier about it than you are."

Fray's eyes narrowed into tiny red slits. 'Oh, I'm quite sure. But this… this can't keep happening, Yuyujo. Are we clear?'

That question bore into her, heavy and inescapable, making Yujo’s stomach churn. She could feel the her teacher's reprimands lingering like chains wrapped tightly around her chest, squeezing the life out of her. She raised a trembling hand to her temple, brushing the edge of her hairline as she tried to steady herself.

"What in Yunalesca's name am I 'doing'?" she whispered.

The silence stretched uncomfortably, amplifying Frey's unspoken judgements, until the doors burst open with sudden, almost childlike exuberance.

'Tch, we'll finish this later.' Fray curtly muttered. Yujo blinked, and in that instant, Fray was gone, as though she had evaporated into the shadows.

Confused and detached, Yujo turned toward the doors. There stood Haurchefant, arms spread wide, his face alight with a grin as warm and radiant as the Ul’dahn sun.

"The woman of the hour!" he proclaimed, voice beaming with pride and enthusiasm.

The abrupt shift left Yujo’s heart fluttering. Moments ago, she was drowning in remorse and rebuke, and now she was blinded by this all-too carefree brightness. She was too stunned to speak, forced to stand between the shadow cast by Fray’s scorn and the light of Haurchefant’s earnestness.

= = >

[sunderedstar]

absolutely could not find the table of contents for Keith A. Smith's Non-Adhesive Binding Volume II: 1- 2- & 3-Section Sewings online anywhere, so here it is. for all your ILL/resource sharing/page scan request needs.

Part 1 1-Section Sewings

16 3-Hole PAMPHLET STITCH SEWING

20 DASH SEWING

21 THE LACED DASH

22 FIGURE 8

24 DOT-DASH SEWING (machine stitch)

26 THE TWIST Exit Backward

28 THE TWIST Exit Forward

29 DOUBLE DASH Alternating Exits

30 THE TWIST Exit Backward and Link

34 PEARL DASH

35 BOW TIE Running Stitch Sewing

36 THE HITCH Exit Backward, Lap and loop

38 ALTERNATING HITCH

42 SEWN CHAINS (linking to form a chain)

Part 2 - 2-SECTION SEWINGS

52 PARALLEL BARS

54 THE DASH

56 DOT-DASH

57 DASH BARS

59 DIAGONALS BARS

60 ALTERNATING DIAGONALS BARS

62 BARS ARROWS

65 STANDING Z'S OR LYING N's

68 BROKEN Z's

70 ZIGZAG

71 LIGHTNING BOLT

73 PINKING SHEARS

74 PINKING SHEARS WITH BARS

76 CARETS

78 SETS OF DIAGONAL BARS

80 LATTICE

82 Xs

83 ALTERNATING X's

84 2-SECTION TWISTED X

86 TWISTED X WITH BARS

88 LINKED X

90 SOFT K

92 TIED BOW

94 BARBER POLE

97 DESCENDING Xs

102 ALPHA Alternating Loops

104 THE WATERFALL Twin Link Stitch Sewing

107 CROSSED SNOWSHOES Intersecting
Chain Stitch Sewing

110 THREAD EYE A Link Stitch Sewing

113 THREAD EYE WITH X's A Link Stitch
Sewing

116 2-SECTION RUNNING STITCH

SEWING

Part 3 - 3-SECTION SEWINGS

132 MULTIPLE SECTION PAMPHLET
SEWING

134 MULTIPLE SECTION FIGURE 8
SEWING 1-Needle Sewing

135 MULTIPLE SECTION FIGURE 8
SEWING 2-Needle Sewing

138 MULTIPLE SECTION, MULTIPLE FIGURE & SEWINGS 1-Needle Sewing

140 TRIPLE DASH

142 TRIPLE DASH VARIATION

145 MULTI-SECTION ON TAPES LACED
INTO PAPER COVER

150 TANGENT BARS

154 UNEVEN BARS

156 ALTERNATING BARS

158 ALTERNATING LOOPED BARS

159 THE ROPE

162 TRIPLE PARQUET

164 PARQUETRY

165 G's

168 H's

170 BROKEN H's

172 DOVE TAIL

174 VERTICAL T's

177 FALLING DIAGONALS

178 DASHES & DIAGONALS

180 PAIRED DIAGONALS

182 STAGGERED DIAGONALS

184 STAGGERED DIAGONALS VARIATION

186 TRIDENT

188 ALTERNATING TRIDENTS I

189 ALTERNATING TRIDENTS I

190 S's

191 DOUBLE DIAMONDS

192 HEXAGONALS

193 ROCKET

194 LEAVES

196 HOUND'S-TOOTH CHECK

198 Ks

200 BRACKETS

202 SEVEN 7's

204 BROKEN HERRINGBONE

206 FOLDING V's

208 V's

208 V's I

210 TOUCHING ARROWS

212 AEROS Arrows

214 ISOLATED DIAMONDS

216 TOUCHING DIAMONDS

218 PISCES

220 TIRE TRACKS

222 ASSEMBLY LINE Z's

224 STAIR-STEPS

226 SAW BLADES

228 OPEN BOOK

230 ARROWHEAD

232 DIAGONAL T's

234 +s

236 +'s and X's

238 CONTIGUOUS X's (even number)

240 ISOLATED X's

242 CONTIGUOUS X's (odd number)

244 DOS ESQUIS

245 HURRICANE FENCE

246 DIAMOND X

248 3-SECTION TWISTED X

250 TIED CROSS

254 BOW TIED

258 HORSESHOES

260 LOOP THE LOOP

262 PINCHED P's

264. BOBBIN

268 SIDE BOW

270 COILED LINE

274 TRIPLE CHAIN

279 WOVEN CHAIN

283 LINKED STAR

286 BUTTERFLY STROKE

290 SHOOTING STAR

294 SPINE BRAID

296 THE COIL SPRING

[borninwinter81]

DIY cybergoth collar

I've been customising this dress, and I thought it would be cool to have a matching collar. Pics with and without flash to show how it might look under club lights!

I used some of the yellow fabric, cut a piece that was a little longer than the length around my neck so it can overlap at the ends, and a little more than twice as wide as I needed.

I doubled it over and sewed around the edges - pro tip - to save having to turn it inside out, just turn in all the edges a little, iron them down, then fold over along the width and top-stitch all around the edge. This will make it nice and flat, and save the tedium of turning a narrow piece of fabric inside out.

I didn't have any yellow thread so used black for contrast in a narrow zig-zag, and deliberately made it messy. Messy on purpose > trying to be neat and failing! I used my sewing machine but this could also be done by hand.

The reflector was stolen from a high visibility jacket which I don't really wear anymore. I glued it down first using pva glue, and then put spikes through which will help hold it in place if the glue starts to degrade. These are the screw on kind where you poke a hole through for the base and screw the spike on. The ring is from a key-chain, and this will just be sewn on by hand.

I always fasten collars and chokers with heavy duty snap studs. These are cheaper and safer than a buckle (no choking hazard if the collar gets caught on something or someone grabs it as they'll break apart under pressure) but are still very secure and are neater and easier to fasten than using safety pins or similar.

They come in a packet, each stud has 4 parts and the tool for attaching them is included. You'll need something to make a small hole to insert them. I have a leather punch but you could just use the end of scissors to poke a hole. You'll also need a hammer and a sturdy surface to do this on. I usually use my kitchen floor, you might end up damaging a tabletop or desk.

The instructions are usually printed on the packet but they're pretty simple to figure out, not too different to inserting eyelets. Just make sure you're inserting them the right way around so you can close them correctly - check and double check before hammering them shut! Can be bought online, but sewing and crafting stores usually have them too.

[thefertilizerequipment]

Analysis of NPK blending fertilizer production line process characteristics

NPK blended fertilizer is a compound fertilizer made by physically mixing nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and other base fertilizers. NPK blending fertilizer production line process offers features like flexible formulation, low investment, and strong adaptability, allowing it to meet the nutrient needs of different crops and soil types.

1.Raw Material Pre-treatment

Raw Material Selection: Base fertilizers like urea, monoammonium phosphate (MAP), potassium chloride (MOP), and potassium sulfate (SOP) must meet particle size standards (1-4mm) to ensure even mixing.

Crushing and Screening: Large particles need processing by a chain crusher and grading via a vibrating screen to prevent clumping, which affects mixing effectiveness.

2.Automatic Batching and Mixing

Computer-Controlled Weighing: A PLC automatic batching system precisely adjusts the N, P, K ratios with an error ≤1%.

Double Axis Paddle Mixing: A high-efficiency mixer achieves a uniformity ≥95% in just 3-5 minutes, preventing nutrient segregation.

3.Finished Product Handling

Anti-Caking Treatment: Coating oil or anti-caking agents are added to improve storage stability.

Automatic Packaging: Quantitative packing scales + sewing machines support different bag sizes (5-50kg) to meet diverse market demands.

Outstanding Features of NPK Blending Process:

1.Flexible Adaptation: Formulas can be quickly adjusted to produce specialized fertilizers with different NPK ratios (like 15-15-15, 20-10-10).

2.Low Investment, Quick Returns: Compared to chemically synthesized compound fertilizers, equipment investment is reduced by over 50%, making it suitable for small and medium-sized enterprises.

3.Energy Efficient and Eco-Friendly: No high-temperature chemical reactions mean lower energy consumption and no wastewater or exhaust gas emissions.

4.High Adaptability: Medium or trace elements (calcium, magnesium, sulfur) or organic matter can be added to meet the needs of specialty fertilizers.

With advantages like simple processing, flexible formulation, and controllable costs, NPK blending fertilizer production lines have become a key choice in the compound fertilizer market.

[movingscales]

Portable two thread chain stitch bag closing machine

needle thread double lock chain stitch bag closing machine Improved economy, two thread double locked chainstitch bag closing machine, standard version with vertical acting presser foot system for closing filled bags. Sewing parts with special rust prevention coating and wider. Guides for filler cord for sealing the needle punctures.

Independently adjustable chaining and presser foot pressure for optimized bag feeding. Low thread tension reduces the risk of thread breakage. Internal forced lubrication, shell design casting. Low noise and vibration. Improved needle thread take up control.

Portable two thread stitch sewing bag closing machine Portable two thread chain stitch bag closing machine with direct drive by fan-cooled electric motor. Combined upper and lower feed for greater power grips both sides of the bag, even on difficult materials. Motor housing and handle made of fiber-glass reinforced break-resistant polyamide. Sealed, dust proof and permanently lubricated motor ball bearings. Power cable 5 m long.

Single needle sewing machine for closing woven bags Single needle machine for closing of all kinds of filled bags made of multi-wall paper, PP/PE woven cloth, jute, cotton bags etc. Equipped with mechanically operated continuously running thread chain cutting knives. The operator has to guide the thread chain between these knives for cutting the thread chain at the end of the seam.

Automatic sewing needle thread machine for sack, bags Automatic sewing needle machine specially designed to operate as an integrated part of sealing system.Features continuous motion feeding; the timed needle moves in epicyclical rotations as the bag passes through the sewing head. Power driven feed rollers ensure accurate feeding of the bag and avoid damage to the sack.

Thank you for allowing Accurate Weighing Scales (U) Ltd the privilege to serve you in advance. For inquiries on deliveries contact us Office +256 (0) 705 577 823, +256 (0) 775 259 917 Address: Wandegeya KCCA Market South Wing, 2nd Floor Room SSF 036 Email: weighingscales@countrywinggroup.com

[scalesscales]

Portable two thread chain stitch bag closing machine

needle thread double lock chain stitch bag closing machine Improved economy, two thread double locked chainstitch bag closing machine, standard version with vertical acting presser foot system for closing filled bags. Sewing parts with special rust prevention coating and wider. Guides for filler cord for sealing the needle punctures.

Independently adjustable chaining and presser foot pressure for optimized bag feeding. Low thread tension reduces the risk of thread breakage. Internal forced lubrication, shell design casting. Low noise and vibration. Improved needle thread take up control.

Portable two thread stitch sewing bag closing machine Portable two thread chain stitch bag closing machine with direct drive by fan-cooled electric motor. Combined upper and lower feed for greater power grips both sides of the bag, even on difficult materials. Motor housing and handle made of fiber-glass reinforced break-resistant polyamide. Sealed, dust proof and permanently lubricated motor ball bearings. Power cable 5 m long.

Single needle sewing machine for closing woven bags Single needle machine for closing of all kinds of filled bags made of multi-wall paper, PP/PE woven cloth, jute, cotton bags etc. Equipped with mechanically operated continuously running thread chain cutting knives. The operator has to guide the thread chain between these knives for cutting the thread chain at the end of the seam.

Automatic sewing needle thread machine for sack, bags Automatic sewing needle machine specially designed to operate as an integrated part of sealing system.Features continuous motion feeding; the timed needle moves in epicyclical rotations as the bag passes through the sewing head. Power driven feed rollers ensure accurate feeding of the bag and avoid damage to the sack.

Thank you for allowing Accurate Weighing Scales (U) Ltd the privilege to serve you in advance. For inquiries on deliveries contact us Office +256 (0) 705 577 823, +256 (0) 775 259 917 Address: Wandegeya KCCA Market South Wing, 2nd Floor Room SSF 036 Email: weighingscales@countrywinggroup.com

[powerscales]

needle thread double lock chain stitch bag closing machine

needle thread double lock chain stitch bag closing machine Improved economy, two thread double locked chainstitch bag closing machine, standard version with vertical acting presser foot system for closing filled bags. Sewing parts with special rust prevention coating and wider. Guides for filler cord for sealing the needle punctures.

Independently adjustable chaining and presser foot pressure for optimized bag feeding. Low thread tension reduces the risk of thread breakage. Internal forced lubrication, shell design casting. Low noise and vibration. Improved needle thread take up control.

Portable two thread stitch sewing bag closing machine Portable two thread chain stitch bag closing machine with direct drive by fan-cooled electric motor. Combined upper and lower feed for greater power grips both sides of the bag, even on difficult materials. Motor housing and handle made of fiber-glass reinforced break-resistant polyamide. Sealed, dust proof and permanently lubricated motor ball bearings. Power cable 5 m long.

Single needle sewing machine for closing woven bags Single needle machine for closing of all kinds of filled bags made of multi-wall paper, PP/PE woven cloth, jute, cotton bags etc. Equipped with mechanically operated continuously running thread chain cutting knives. The operator has to guide the thread chain between these knives for cutting the thread chain at the end of the seam.

Automatic sewing needle thread machine for sack, bags Automatic sewing needle machine specially designed to operate as an integrated part of sealing system.Features continuous motion feeding; the timed needle moves in epicyclical rotations as the bag passes through the sewing head. Power driven feed rollers ensure accurate feeding of the bag and avoid damage to the sack.

Thank you for allowing Accurate Weighing Scales (U) Ltd the privilege to serve you in advance. For inquiries on deliveries contact us Office +256 (0) 705 577 823, +256 (0) 775 259 917 Address: Wandegeya KCCA Market South Wing, 2nd Floor Room SSF 036 Email: weighingscales@countrywinggroup.com

[scalesweightopen]

Automatic single needle industrial closing machine for bags

needle thread double lock chain stitch bag closing machine Improved economy, two thread double locked chainstitch bag closing machine, standard version with vertical acting presser foot system for closing filled bags. Sewing parts with special rust prevention coating and wider. Guides for filler cord for sealing the needle punctures.

Independently adjustable chaining and presser foot pressure for optimized bag feeding. Low thread tension reduces the risk of thread breakage. Internal forced lubrication, shell design casting. Low noise and vibration. Improved needle thread take up control.

Portable two thread stitch sewing bag closing machine Portable two thread chain stitch bag closing machine with direct drive by fan-cooled electric motor. Combined upper and lower feed for greater power grips both sides of the bag, even on difficult materials. Motor housing and handle made of fiber-glass reinforced break-resistant polyamide. Sealed, dust proof and permanently lubricated motor ball bearings. Power cable 5 m long.

Single needle sewing machine for closing woven bags Single needle machine for closing of all kinds of filled bags made of multi-wall paper, PP/PE woven cloth, jute, cotton bags etc. Equipped with mechanically operated continuously running thread chain cutting knives. The operator has to guide the thread chain between these knives for cutting the thread chain at the end of the seam.

Automatic sewing needle thread machine for sack, bags Automatic sewing needle machine specially designed to operate as an integrated part of sealing system.Features continuous motion feeding; the timed needle moves in epicyclical rotations as the bag passes through the sewing head. Power driven feed rollers ensure accurate feeding of the bag and avoid damage to the sack.

Thank you for allowing Accurate Weighing Scales (U) Ltd the privilege to serve you in advance. For inquiries on deliveries contact us Office +256 (0) 705 577 823, +256 (0) 775 259 917 Address: Wandegeya KCCA Market South Wing, 2nd Floor Room SSF 036 Email: weighingscales@countrywinggroup.com