#Pc hardware

[whatslessthanoverwatch2skin]

For the price of an Overwatch 2 skin, you can get a 256GB SSD Internal Drive for $19.99 USD.

[dimalink]

Cleaning the metal

So, at the village, sometimes I do something, it happens, this summer. And, I transport there all details of old computer by firm Nixdorf. I and my brother, we take all the things apart, we deconstruct computer. And in this state – we check all details. To search for rust. It is lots of rust. And transport to the village all the details. To remove rust. I do remove from rust with a special cleaning tool. Brother buy it. It helps. It removes rust very good.

I think, I can remove rust. And I do not know, can I do it till the end of summer. When I do remove rust – I put on gas mask. And hands are defensed with rubber gloves. And, at first, I with brush do lubricate with a cleaning tool. And after - with metal toothbrush I start to rub.

And, it is lots of rust, of course. But, as I think, I can do it more or less. In some places where, rust is not deep – everything is easy and fast. And, there are places with rust that built in deep into metal. So, in this case it is much more difficult.

So, I need to push with power. And it has such orange layer inside. And, it is goes out as a crumbling dust. And in places where it is easy to remove rust – it reminds dust, or better to say, dirt, and with a water and cleaning tool remove it.

I take a notice, that some parts of computer case, are easy to bend.  And I need to think - can I to make metal more strong. And to think – what to do with power block. All upper layer is in rust. I think, it is possible to remove rust. And inside everything looks in a good state. So, I think I need another power block case.

And, in main, I can say, it is goes good. Remove from rust. As, I finish I,t I think what to do next.

Computer case is normal. In some places, it is not durable. And in some place, it will stay with rust, but a little of rust points. And main rust layer - it can be removed from details. It is for sure.

And what to do with case for power adapter I do not know. It is someway all in rust. And can it be a stronger, more durable metal case. So, it is interesting. And I do not have answers yet. First, I remove everything from rust.

Small moment. It is a message from a summer period. It is published now. As I find a time for it. Slowly I am restoring my old computer.

Dima Link is making retro videogames, apps, a little of music, write stories, and some retro more.

WEBSITE: http://www.dimalink.tv-games.ru/home_eng.html ITCHIO: https://dimalink.itch.io/ GAMEJOLT: https://gamejolt.com/@DimaLink/games

BLOGGER: https://dimalinkeng.blogspot.com/ DISCORD: https://discord.com/invite/F24Kw7TaH4 TUMBLR: https://dimalink.tumblr.com/

[gynoidgearhead]

you've heard of gaslight gatekeep girlboss

now get ready for benchmark bootstrap bottleneck

[11-eyed-rook]

Computer parts! :3

[enterpriselaplink]

Laplink: 40 Years of Enhancing Public Sector Efficiency with Automated PCmover Solutions

For over 40 years, Laplink has delivered solutions to the public sector. Their PCmover software enhances efficiency in government agencies by automating PC hardware and OS refreshes. This solution offers substantial cost savings compared to traditional, labor-intensive migration methods, helping agencies serve citizens more effectively.

[gamingwartech]

I write about gaming PC, hardware, laptops and compare their specs

[gamesfan34260]

The new PC saga

So recently I had a hardware failure with my old desktop computer. It's served me well, my little war machine has been marching on for what must be a decade now. (I don't know when I got it exactly, but that feels right) However, it started having more and more issues that I, at the time, chalked up to the hard drive (The thing that keeps all your files long term) and it's definitely not helping, but I discovered that wasn't the issue.

Turns out the power supply was actually at fault for a lot of the issues, like it turning off randomly and restarting…or freezing moments after booting, I'm not sure how that works but sure. Anyway, order a new PSU and it works fine. Clean out my PC which I hadn't done in-well, however long I built it because my PC is right up against the wall of my tiny room, so I can't really do that without a whole saga full of me stabbing myself on a table, so I tend to avoid it if I can.

I figured, however, that it was time for an upgrade anyway so I waited for my new parts to come after making sure the rest of the PC was fine and I didn't lose any important data. Today is the day that I finally got the last part of my new PC (Which, the BIOS is not a part I expected to cause me problems but I guess it didn't like my HDD because it refused to boot until I enabled a specific setting)

Now, what I failed to mention is that I have this beefy aftermarket CPU cooler, I think it's called an EVO 212, and it's great at making sure your computer is chill! Like, I forgot to plug the fan back in and it still worked just fine…minus the metal part being a burning hazard to any fool who dares touch it. (I am the fool) Problem is: this cooler is so beefy that it doesn't actually fit in my case properly, I need to wrap the case's cover over it, which isn't ideal to do with inflexible metal but I did it somehow!

So I did a bit of reading and people were saying the stock cooler for the new CPU, an i5 12400F, is actually pretty good. I decide "y'know what? Maybe I should just give it a try" and was THAT a mistake! Now, it's been a while since I used a stock cooler, but I don't think they ran at 45C when doing nothing! Idle, I expected about 34C, not sometimes hopping up to 60 for funsies to make the fan say hello!

"Well, maybe it just sucks at staying cool when idle, maybe the heat dissipating really gets going at faster speeds" is what I thought but….the fact it reached 100C would say otherwise. I understand I'm a bit out of the loop when it comes to how modern computer hardware operates after my first and only time building a PC, but I don't think that's the new normal.

…I think I should just go get stabbed by a table again to swap out the cooler, even if it is very inconvenient. I can't be dealing with that.

[gamers-arsenal-blog]

Corsair ha lanciato questo sistema raffreddamento PC con focus sulla facilità d'installazione, gestione cavi e illuminazione RGB e rumorosità ridotta. Perfetto per builder esperti in cerca di ordine e design come anche per principianti. Scopri tutto sui Kit Ventole Corsair Link RX120 e RX140 RGB nella nostra recensione.

[gamersguide]

DEEPCOOL AK500 CPU COOLER | HOW GOOD IS IT?

The DeepCool AK500 is a high-performance CPU cooler designed to keep your system running cool and quiet. This single-tower cooler boasts a variety of features that make it a compelling option for both budget-minded builders and those seeking a balance of performance and noise levels. Let’s explore it thoroughly:

Design and Construction:

Heatsink:

Unlike bulkier dual-tower coolers, the AK500 employs a single-tower heatsink, making it ideal for mid-tower and smaller cases where space is a concern. Despite its single-tower design, the AK500 boasts a large heatsink measuring 127 x 90 x 158mm, providing ample surface area for efficient heat dissipation.

The AK500 utilizes DeepCool’s signature black matrix fin design. These fins are strategically staggered to create micro-channels, increasing airflow and heat exchange with the surrounding air. The heat pipes directly touch the CPU’s integrated heat spreader (IHS), eliminating thermal resistance and ensuring rapid heat transfer from the CPU core.

Heat Pipes:

Five 6mm nickel-plated copper heat pipes efficiently transfer heat away from the CPU core and distribute it evenly across the large heatsink. Balanced Bidirectional Heat Pipe Technology optimizes the heat pipes’ layout to counteract the effects of gravity, ensuring efficient heat transfer even in vertical PC cases.

Fan:

The fluid dynamic bearing (FDB) fan uses a lubricating fluid to reduce friction, resulting in smoother operation, lower noise levels, and increased lifespan compared to sleeve bearing fans. The fan speed is intelligently controlled by the motherboard based on CPU temperature, ensuring optimal cooling while minimizing noise when the system is under low load.

Additional Details:

The heatpipes are angled slightly to ensure 100% compatibility with most standard and high-profile RAM modules, eliminating clearance issues. The AK500 is built with high-quality materials, including a nickel-plated base and aluminum fins, ensuring long-lasting performance and reliability.

Performance and Cooling:

Credit: Dannys Tech Channel

Cooling Capacity:

240W TDP rating signifies the maximum amount of heat the AK500 can effectively dissipate, making it suitable for cooling most modern CPUs, including mid-range and high-performance processors with a TDP of up to 240W. The combination of a large heatsink, five heat pipes, and Direct Touch technology facilitates efficient heat transfer away from the CPU core.

The black matrix fin design and PWM-controlled 120mm FDB fan work together to generate optimal airflow throughout the heatsink, effectively transferring heat to the surrounding environment.

Performance in Practice:

While real-world performance can vary depending on specific system configurations and usage scenarios, independent tests and user reviews consistently show that the AK500 is capable of maintaining safe CPU temperatures even under demanding workloads. Depending on your specific CPU and other system components, the AK500 may offer limited headroom for overclocking. However, it should be sufficient for moderate overclocking on most mid-range CPUs.

Noise Levels:

One of the AK500’s key strengths is its quiet operation. The FDB fan and PWM control work together to minimize noise generation. The fan operates at speeds between 300 and 1,500 RPM, depending on the CPU temperature. At its lowest speed, the AK500 is nearly inaudible, making it suitable for noise-sensitive environments.

While the AK500 prioritizes quiet operation, it’s important to remember that noise levels will increase as the fan ramps up under heavier loads to maintain optimal cooling. Users seeking absolute silence at the expense of some cooling performance might need to consider alternative cooling solutions.

Installation and Compatibility:

The DeepCool AK500 boasts a user-friendly and straightforward installation process. This makes it a great choice for both experienced builders and beginners. 

Installation Process:

Prepare your system: Before installation, ensure your system is powered off and unplugged. Locate the motherboard socket and remove any existing coolers or thermal paste.

Mount the backplate: The AK500 utilizes a universal backplate design compatible with various Intel and AMD sockets. Position the backplate on the backside of your motherboard and secure it using the provided screws.

Attach the mounting brackets: Depending on your specific CPU socket, attach the designated mounting brackets to the backplate using the included thumbscrews.

Apply thermal paste: Apply a thin, even layer of thermal paste (not included) onto the center of your CPU’s integrated heat spreader (IHS).

Position the heatsink: Carefully place the heatsink onto the CPU, ensuring the heat pipes make proper contact with the CPU’s IHS.

Secure the heatsink: Secure the heatsink to the mounting brackets using the provided thumbscrews. Tighten them evenly in an alternating pattern to avoid uneven pressure.

Compatibility:

The AK500 is compatible with a wide range of Intel and AMD CPU sockets, including:

Intel: LGA 115x, 1200, 1700, 2066

AMD: AM4, AM5

Installation Process:

Prepare your system: Before installation, ensure your system is powered off and unplugged. Locate the motherboard socket and remove any existing coolers or thermal paste.

Mount the backplate: The AK500 utilizes a universal backplate design compatible with various Intel and AMD sockets. Position the backplate on the backside of your motherboard and secure it using the provided screws.

Attach the mounting brackets: Depending on your specific CPU socket, attach the designated mounting brackets to the backplate using the included thumbscrews.

Apply thermal paste: Apply a thin, even layer of thermal paste (not included) onto the center of your CPU’s integrated heat spreader (IHS).

Position the heatsink: Carefully place the heatsink onto the CPU, ensuring the heat pipes make proper contact with the CPU’s IHS.

Secure the heatsink: Secure the heatsink to the mounting brackets using the provided thumbscrews. Tighten them evenly in an alternating pattern to avoid uneven pressure.

Compatibility:

Read Here

Originally Published @ Gamers' Guide

[tech-n-autos]

Every time

[arcadebroke]

[smashtalkgg]

Gigabyte leaks RTX 4070 and 4060 graphics cards accidentally

An accident by Gigabyte ended up leaking their RTX 4070 and RTX 4060 graphics card. The information has been leaked while the RTX 40-series is in its growing phase. Though both have been leaked, we have not heard much about the RTX 4060 as of now. What did the leak reveal about the RTX 4070 and RTX 4060? As the leak suggests, Gigabyte’s update for its motherboard software has now added support…

[sillythoughtsaboutstupidthings]

GPU Industry Rant

I'm angry, angry about graphics cards.

Why?

Because what used to be a fun exercise in trying to find the best value or trying to find a good deal at a shoestring budget has turned into "how long do I need to wait to find something that isn't awful value".

It used to be that you could get a reasonably decent new gaming GPU for about $100-$150 and every new generation there'd be new cards in that price range that were a decent bit better. You used to be able to get a genuinely good gaming GPU at $150-250 with significant improvements every generation.

What used to be

It has soon been 4 years since the release of the GTX 1650, and about 3.5 years since the 1660 Super and 1650 Super. These three cards represent the last time there was a step forward at these two price points.

In 2016 we had the GTX 1050ti at $150, the RX 470 at $180 and the RX 480 at $200 ($250 for the 8GB model). The 1050ti was pretty awful value compared to the 25% faster RX 470, but it still beat previous generation $200 cards by a few percent. The GTX 1650 then at $150 just about matched the RX 470 in 2019, still not a great value improvement, especially since AMD released the slightly faster RX 570 at $170 in 2017, but at least you paid slightly less for about a match in performance. The GTX 1650 Super half a year later was about similar, matching or slightly beating the RX 580 (which in turn was a bit faster than the 480 and slightly cheaper) at $160, making for a small step up in performance compared to the RX 570. The 1660 Super at around the same time set you back $230 while providing about 25% more performance than a 1650 Super or RX 580, making it on par with 2016′s $450 GTX 1070, quite an improvement in value.

As for cards below $150, we've had nothing since the GT 1030 ($70 2017), RX 550 ($80 2017) RX 560 ($100 2017) and GTX 1050 ($110 2016).

Since then we've had

the GTX 1630, a card that costs $150 while performing somewhere between a 1050 and 1050ti, making it uncompetitive against the bad value 1050ti from 2016. The only way to make the 1630 look good is if you compared it to the 950 from 2015. The RX 6400, $160 for a card that gets beaten by the 1650 by a slight margin while also having issues in older PCs due to limited x4 PCI-E bandwidth. The RX 6500XT a $200 card that gets handily beaten by the 1650 Super with the same PCI-E issue as the 6400. The RTX 3050 a $250 (in theory at least) card that very slightly beats the 1660 Super. You're pretty much paying at least $20 more for unusable raytracing and the privilege of being able to use DLSS.

Cope

Some youtubers a while back went on about how "the age of the APU" is coming or something like that. Arguing that anything up to about $150 will be made obsolete by integrated graphics. They were technically correct, but only if you compare the latest and greatest iGPU in laptop CPUs, the Radeon 680M to the GTX 1630, which as I mentioned earlier is worse than a 1050ti, a $150 GPU that's coming up on its 7th birthday in a few months. Presumably the same 680M and possibly a 12CU RDNA 3 GPU will make it into some Ryzen 7000G APUs later this year, but even then I think top iGPU (which will be included in a CPU that'll be more expensive that it would've been to buy a cheap CPU + GPU combo back in the day) only might match RX 6400 performance or maybe 1650 performance, certainly not 1650 Super performance and absolutely not what ought to have been $150 performance this generation (which is to say something closer to the RTX 3050).

Hope

At least the used market is back to relatively normal, so if you want RX 6500XT performance but don't feel like paying $200 for it you can just buy a used RX 580 for like $90 or if you want better you can go for a 1660 Super for about $130 (both "buy it now" prices on ebay). The prices of these used cards are scaled quite appropriately from what new card pricing for the same performance levels ought to be.

The downside of buying older cards is that they don't always age that well. The GTX 9 and 10-series have aged like fine milk in the latest games (which is to say that relative performance to the 20 and 16-series is down by a lot) and AMD dropped support for their 2012-2015 lineup in 2021.

Additional notes

It is worth mentioning that the RX 6600 is currently available at $250 in the US when on a small discount and provides a good 25% performance uplift compared to the RTX 3050/GTX 1660 Super, however this pricing is not universal, the same card on German amazon is €280 or $300, on canadian amazon the best I found was 270 USD. Here in Sweden some part of increased prices is definitely due to inflation, 1660 Supers used to be around 2700 SEK, now an RX 6600 is at best 3200 SEK which is a pretty big change, sure it currently translates to just below $250 before our 25% sales tax, but that doesn't make it feel any better.

[guildwarsgirl]

My poor gaming PC is having hardware problems. So I sadly won't be playing GW2 for a while till I can get it fixed. My hard drive is healthy, but it's most likely due to my RAM or something else going bad, so my mom is probably just gonna use the warranty to get a replacement.

[fuzzytimes1]

Ryzen 7000X3D Pricing, Arc Updates, The PC is Dead | The complete nerd episode. 246 - PC world

Ryzen 7000X3D Pricing, Arc Updates, The PC is Dead | The complete nerd episode. 246PC world Source link