It is a terrible thing for an entire people to surrender to the notion that one-ninth of its population is beneath them.
JAMES BALDWIN Debates William F. Buckley
At Cambridge University’s Union Hall
Delivered February 18, 1965
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19th Century facial hair: A brief history
Prior to the 1850s, it was very unusual for men the Great Britain or the United States to wear facial hair. But by the second half of the century, fashionable men were sporting copious and often outrageous beards and mustaches. When and how did the change in fashion occur?
Some British officers stationed abroad in the vast empire began to imitate Continental European officers, for whom mustaches were fashionable. Indeed, on the continent having a mustache tended to indicate that the mustachioed man was in the military, which is why pacifist anabaptist men wore (and continue to wear) beards without mustaches. But in the British army, with few exceptions, full beards were banned.
Members of the Coldstream Guards, 1821
That regulation changed out of necessity during the Crimean War. Because of a shortage of shaving soap, and to protect the soldiers’ faces from the extreme cold temperatures, the men were allowed and encouraged to grow beards. When the bearded soldiers returned to heroes’ welcomes in Great Britain, Queen Victoria remarked that their beards made them “the picture of real fighting men.” Suddenly beards were associated not with slovenliness or insanity, but with courage and manliness, and they began to sprout on the faces of civilians and soldiers alike. Magazines and newspapers carried the new style across the ocean, and it soon swept the male population of the United States as well, so that whereas facial hair had been very rarely seen before, by the time of the American Civil War most men were bearded.
Soldiers of the 42nd (The Royal Highland) Regiment of Foot, 1856
In 1860 the British army enacted regulations preventing soldiers from shaving above their lips, essentially mandating mustaches for men who could grow them. In time beards were again prohibited, but the military mustaches remained, with regiments often adopting mustache styles unique to their regiment.
It all ended, however, during World War I with the advent of chemical warfare. The necessity of wearing gas masks, and the fact that the masks would not seal on a bearded face, caused the enactment of regulations requiring that soldiers be cleanshaven.
Farriers of the Royal Artillery, WWI
These days the British and U.S. armies again allow mustaches, but, with some limited exceptions, beards are prohibited unless worn for religious reasons. Beards have always been allowed in the British navy, by the way, but are allowed only with an approved waiver in the U.S. navy.
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I was today years old when I learned that the word for Mandarin in Mandarin is 普通话 and now I'm lmao because it is the most Chinese thing ever for the Middle Kingdom around which the world revolves to call their language "ordinary talk" in contrast to everyone else.
And to be clear I don't mean this disparagingly, I think it's fascinating as an example of how history and language frame word creation, how cultures see themselves, etc. I think it's so cool. I will never forget this word. It will be on my slowly fomenting next list of more of my favorite words in Chinese. It's absolutely intriguing and neat.
But I was also extremely "wut" at first because I know all the characters individually and didn't realize that TOGETHER they meant Mandarin so I just thought DuChinese was being weird about comparing Cantonese with other Chinese dialects (the reading was about dialects). 🤣🤣🤣
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