#pouter pigeon silhouette

[gogmstuff]

Its the 1900s (from top to bottom) -

Mrs. Charles Pelham Curtis (Ellen Sears Amory Anderson Curtis) by John Singer Sargent (Portland Mueum of Art - Portland, Maine, USA). From Wikimedia; suppressed veiling reflection in top fifth w Pshop 1176X1999 @72 778kj.

1902 Mrs. Charles Beatty Alexander by John Singer Sargent (Sotheby's - Lot 110). From their Web site 2880X4442 @72 2.7Mj.

Black hat by Frank Weston Benson (location ?). From tumblr.com/andrayblue; removed spots w Pshop 901X1143 @72 578kj.

1904 Hermine Gallia by Gustav Klimt (National Gallery - London, UK). From inf.news/zh-hans/culture/8946e046a20c5d2bc5bdf7c6f3ae374a.html 2358X4226 @72 4Mj.

1906 Mercedes Mendeville, condesa de San Félix by Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (Museo nacional del Prado - Madrid, Spain). From Wikimedia 1435X2952 @300 2.6Mj.

1907 María Luisa Maldonado, marquesa de Torneros, hija del conde de Villagonzalo by Joaquin Sorolla y Bástida (auctioned by Bonhams). From their Web site 1618X2742 @72 7.2Mp.

[marzipanandminutiae]

out of curiosity, is there anything that comes to mind when asked about particularly,,,,, interesting victorian fashion choices? like stuff you don’t like?

oh man. definitely. see also: Why I'm Glad I Don't Actually Live In a 1:1 Aesthetic Copy of the 19th Century. the whole "respectability = relatively current silhouette" means I'd have had to wear a lot of these things to keep up with the times if I had any sort of decent lifespan. after all, being born in the 1850s enables you to be a twentysomething or thirtysomething in the Peak Marzi 1870s-80s...but then you get to the 1890s (still decent but not ideal for me) and the slow but steady downward spiral that comes after

but the one thing I could have avoided without social censure is Eye-Searing Color Combinations:

we get it. you have aniline dyes. I will NOT be dressing in 1980s Christmas wrapping paper, thank you.

and I would definitely have limited the circumference of my Leg o'Mutton Sleeves:

the one Victorian- and earlier Georgian -undergarment that does seem 100% cumbersome, ridiculous, and pointless to me is the sleeve-plumper. I do not like puffed sleeves enough to go about with a pillow strapped to each bicep, thank you very much

another one society wouldn't care about- banish from my sight all Heart-Shaped Jewelry:

Maybe I'd feel differently if I weren't a former (19)90s girl who had all the heart-shaped plastic trinkets, but it just looks tacky to me. even in gold and gems

and your humble correspondent never will be persuaded to adopt Curly Microbangs:

This is Norwegian actress Sofie Reimers in the 1880s. And she's rocking the look; it's just. not for me.

nor yet, earlier in the Victorian era, Deceptively Simple 1830s-40s Hair Loops:

If they sat smoothly against your cheeks, they'd look nice. Instead you get this weird Faux Blunt Bob look that is just doing nothing for anyone. Not even this lovely Marina Bychkova doll lady in evening attire.

finally, I would loathe to the very depths of my soul fashion's madate to wear The Pouter Pigeon Silhouette:

TO WHOM DOES THE "SMUGGLING BOWLING BALL IN BLOUSE" LOOK APPEAL????

[petite-girl1-blog]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Edwardian Antique Dress.

[professorpski]

Wash and Wear in 1904: Fabric Catalog in the New York Public Library

One of the unusual sources of fashion history is the catalog put together for retailers by manufacturers to show all the fabric which they might offer to their customers. The New York Public Library has digitized some of these items in their collection, including this one from 1904 in a booklet entitled Enter Wash Fabrics from H. B. Clafin Company of New York. The cover is weirdly uninviting, with an old wooden door, but once opened, pretty cotton fabrics of various kinds are illustrated with fashion images form the period.

You see at top, two daytime dresses worn by grown women. The silhouette of that era was sometimes called “pouter pigeon” with the puffy bodice that looked like a pigeon puffing up its chest. Women sometimes wore rows of ruffles as underwear at the bustline to help fill out such a bodice. The sleeves are puffed too and lace, which was made by machine by then, marked edges, tiers, and seams. The waist was strongly marked, and skirts were trim through the hips and then flared below into multiple gores falling down to the ground. For years, women’s dress reformers had complained about the filth a women’s skirt were dragged through everyday, especially in an era when horses worked in the streets. But it wasn’t until the 1910s that daytime skirts came off the ground and stayed off.

The other images is of very young woman and then a girl. Notice how the silhouette is similar, but the skirts are off the ground, a nod to the reality of the  need for play and easy movement in the young. Not that grown women wouldn’t need such easy movement too, but they didn’t make it as easy for them. But then this was an era when a “walking dress” was a distinct garment and its slightly shorter and narrower skirt made it work. Our two women in the garden, in contrast, do not seem in much of a hurry.

Notice that both fabrics were named with French terms: Chaine leno and Oxford Nonpareil, a nod to the status of France as the fashion capital of the North Atlantic World.

You can find this whole booklet here at the New York Public LIbrary: https://digitalcollections.nypl.org/collections/enter-wash-dress-fabrics-mdcccciiii#/?tab=about

[lilyabsinthe]

The Walking Suit Circa 1912

The Walking Suit Circa 1912

The Teens Era was a time of fashion transition as styles moved away from the tightly sculpted silhouettes of the 1890s and early 1900s. Corsetry was shifting, placing a greater emphasis on creating a smooth, slender upright profile and flattening the breast line- the “pouter pigeon” look was definitely out- and whether it was daytime or evening, the general silhouette remained the same. 🙂 Teens…

[gogmstuff]

1900s fashion and glamour (from top to bottom) -

1907 Miss Faith Moore by Philip Alexius de László (location ?). From tierradentro.tumblr.com/post/77730212995/the-garden-of-delights-portrait-of-miss-faith 1280X1573.

1908 Sylvia by William McGregor Paxton (location ?). From tumblr.com/ataraxiaandserenity; enlarged to screen 1036X1295.

1908 Madame Lebreton by Eugen von Blaas (location ?). From Merinok's Facebook pages1440X1800.

[gogmstuff]

1900 Elegant Lady by Frank Markham Skipworth (private collection). From history-of-fashion.tumblr.com/image/168362737004 via pinterest.com/GloccaMoraBird/1900s-dresses/ 820X1102.

1900 Ita Wegman by ?. From pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1900s-daywear/1900/ 982X1920.

1900s Grand Duke Konstantin &d Grand Duches Elisabeth Mavrikievna. From royalisticism.blogspot.com/2014/05/the-grand-dukes_12.html via pinterest.com/sullyclan/konstantin-konstantinovich/; fixed spots w Pshop & mono-color tint 872X1037.

1900s Lady Ivy Chamberlain. From antique-royals.tumblr.com/tagged/vintage 1093X1704.

1900s Negligée dress. From susannaives.com/wordpress/2012/04/fashion-from-paris-les-modes-february-1907/attachment/7/; fixed spots w Pshop & enlarged by half 810X1146.

1900s Smoking. From antique-royals.tumblr.com/tagged/vintage 805X1063. You’ve come a long, long way.

1900s Ready for the Park, Afternoon by Alastair K. Macdonald. From Mariana's photostream on flickr 764X1198.

[gogmstuff]

1900s fashions (from top to bottom) -

Le Parasol by Paul César Helleu (Sotheby's - 22May14 auction Lot 49) 2880X3528 @72 2.4Mj. There is a trace of pouter pigeon visible.

1909 Princess Victoria by ?. From tumblr.com/blog/view/royaland1427X2000 @72 621kj.

About Town by Paolo Sala (Sotheby's - 22May14 auction Lot 44) 2880X4035 @72 4.3Mj.The year 1910 saw tailored dresses without distinct waistlines like this one in a transition from pouter pigeon to blouson waistlines.

[gogmstuff]

1900s dresses -

Top left  ca. 1903 Front of evening dress by Henriette Favre (Metropolitan). From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1113X2048.

Top center  ca. 1903 Side of evening dress by Henriette Favre (Metropolitan). From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1513X2048.

Top right  ca. 1903 Back of evening dress by Henriette Favre (Metropolitan). From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1280X1904

Second row  1903 Woman by Emilio Gola (location ?). From tumblr.com/toanunnery 747X1280.

Third row  1900s Lady (photo by Helene  Mrozowsky. From tumblr.com/blog/view/fashionsfromthepast1008X1920.

Fourth row left  1908 Paquin walking dress and jacket front (auction by Tessier Sarou). From tumblr.com/fashion-inspiration-s 1280X1920.

Fourth row right  1908 Paquin walking dress and jacket back (auction by Tessier Sarou). From tumblr.com/fashion-inspiration-s 1280X1920.

Fifth ro.  1909 Mabel Love by Dover Street Studios. From tumblr.com/blog/view/fashionsfromthepast 2048X2807.

[gogmstuff]

1908 Corset ad. From lamodedelabelleepoque.tumblr.com/post/91898735429; fixed flaws & spots w Pshop & enlarged by half 552X1140.

[gogmstuff]

1908 (April issue) Les Modes Le Corset Thylda - photo by Félix. From gallica.bnf.fr; fixed spots & flaws w Pshop 1738X2461.

[gogmstuff]

ca. 1908 La moda elegante ilustrada by anonymous (Rijksmuseum). From their Web site; fixed spots & flaws w Pshop 5290X3907.

[gogmstuff]

1908 (December) Les Modes - Le corset Thylda - Photo byFélix. From gallica.bnf.fr; fixed spots & flaws w Pshop 1503X2090.

1908 (September) Les Modes - Le corset Thylda - photo by Félix. From gallica.bnf.fr; fixed spots & flaws w Pshop1539X2115.

[gogmstuff]

It’s Between 1900 and 1909, pouter pigeon silhouettes -

Top  ca. 1900 Une Guinguette á Paris by René Rousseau-Decelle (location ?). From tumblr.com/artthatgivesmefeelings; fixed spots w Pshop 2048X1406.

Second row  1902 Lady in Yellow by Susan Watkins (location ?). From tumblr.com/beautifulcentury 975X1280.

Third row left  1906 Florentia Maria Crawshay, née Woods by John Henry Frederick Bacon Merthyr (Cyfarthfa Castle Museum & Art Gallery - Tydfil, Merthyr Tydfil, UK). From Wikimedia 986X1200.

Third row right  1906 Mrs. William George Raphael by John Singer Sargent (location ?). From tumblr.com/eirene 1229X1683.

Fourth row  1907 Señora Teodolina de Alvear De Lezica by Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (Setdart - 23Mar23 auction Lot 55). From invaluable.com; fixed flaw, spots, & cracks w Pshop 3112X3768.

Fifth row left  1908 Giséle by Elizabeth Shippen Green Elliott (location ?). From tumblr.com/beautifulcentury 1475X2482.

Fifth row right  1908 Jessica Penn in Black with White Plumes by Robert Henri (location ?). From tumblr.com/orchideennacht; shadows 50% & fixed spots w Pshop 922X1920.

Sixth row  1909 Tea Leaves by William McGregor Paxton (location ?). From tumblr.com/catherinedefrance 1194X1500.

[marzipanandminutiae]

Googling “pouter pigeon silhouette why” on this fine Sunday morning

[petite-girl1-blog]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Edwardian Antique Dress.