One of the best crack climbs I’ve had the pleasure of sending. My 500th climb and my hardest trad climb flash to the day!
Scarface 5.11
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Discussion with my climbing instructor …
Instructor: I think most people who climb probably have autism or are at least on the neurodiverse spectrum
Me: Why? (internally feeling a bit seen)
Instructor: we mainly get two types of people at the wall, the ones who get obsessed about routes and figuring out puzzles. And the ones who get really into climbing, buy all the kit, and then stop when they don’t get it after a short while
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So here’s me with new shoes, new harness, full membership and a block of lessons - as well as loads of new podcasts/books about climbing. I think he knows which one I am and I realise that a new hyper focus is in full swing
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Pitch 4 of Quite Something, Wolfberg Cracks, Cedarberg, South Africa
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Dovedale Groove (1985)
Chris Bonington and Don Whillans
Directed by Paul Berriff
Produced by Border Television
Lakeland Rock Series (2/6)
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Lunchtime par Shawn
Via Flickr :
Stephanie Hayos, ready for lunch, Tenaya Peak, Tuolumne, Yosemite, California, U.S.A., © 2015 Shawn Boye
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Today at the climbing wall …
Instructor: [to group] what are you main fears and worries about climbing?
Group: like heights, maybe falling, not being flexible enough
Me: that I’m too heavy for my belayer to stop me falling
Instructor: ahh (looks up and down my body, then at the tiny woman next to me) yeah, that might be a problem. In a wall it’s easy, your belayer just attaches to a sandbag and then lifts completely off the ground.
Me: what about outside?
Instructor: you’ll just have to attach yourself to a really big rock.
I can confirm this has in no way reduced my fear.
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The Climb (2023) makes me fall more in love with the sport the further down the competition we go! The show so far has highlighted all the things that make that sport so special - especially the people and the sense of community. And the challenges have been planned so well it does a good job of testing the competitors' skills in all forms of climbing, pushing them out of their comfort zones WITHOUT forgetting that their safety comes first.
I am so completely hooked and I can't wait it's summer so I can head outdoors to climb as well.
PS: Cat is an absolute legend, I'll never again use my reach as an excuse for not sending a route, he's 5 feet short (his words, not mine) and he keeps on sending route after route (he's the one of the three in the right side of the pic, in the bluish jacket - short king 👑)
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(via https://youtube.com/watch?v=vJ8mGKMcmDY&feature=share)
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