Downloaded the Xadia mobile game and though I have Android Version 12 and plenty of storage space, but it's extremely laggy. There's a part on Chapter 1 where the environmental assets completely glitch out and I just had to run through it blindly until it looked normal again.
Despite the mega framerate lag I managed to mash my way through the battles of chapter 1... I was thinking I could possibly brute force through the lag, I've done it in games before... but the final boss (I assume?) does an attack at the beginning that makes the game instantly freeze. And then my phone restarts.
I don't play mobile games often so I don't have a frame of reference. But I didn't think my phone was this crusty.
What the heck are the minimum requirements for an android phone to be able to run the game without FREEZING AND CRASHING????
Please don't tell me you need a $200-$500+ phone to play this game. I don't know how I would determine if a phone would run games better than my current one, if it just needs to have 6GB RAM or what. I might be stuck waiting and praying for a pc version that can be played on Steam Deck, because my pc is really old.
I may spend most of time using technology, but GOD do I hate technology at times.
I was planning to upgrade my phone later in the year for an upcoming mobile game - I didn't know about this one until its release - but I would be willing to upgrade earlier if it's possible to get a phone for $100 or less that could run it... I don't know how to be sure...
Xadia might not be that good of a mobile game but, I can't even get through one level to find out if I like it
"Compatibility: Works on your device" Does it though???? Does it really????? It clocks in and spends the rest of the shift smoking out back.
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Understanding the Differences Between DDR3 and DDR4 RAM
When building or upgrading a computer, one of the critical components to consider is the system’s memory or RAM (Random Access Memory). Among the various types of RAM available, DDR3 and DDR4 are the most commonly discussed. While both serve the same fundamental purpose of temporarily storing data for quick access by the CPU, DDR3 and DDR4 differ significantly in terms of performance, power consumption, and overall capabilities. Understanding these differences can help you make an informed decision when selecting RAM for your needs.
Introduction to DDR3 and DDR4
DDR3 RAM (Double Data Rate 3) was introduced in 2007, succeeding DDR2. It brought improvements in speed and efficiency over its predecessor, making it a popular choice for many years. However, as computing demands grew, the need for faster and more efficient memory became apparent, leading to the development of DDR4 RAM (Double Data Rate 4), which was introduced in 2014.
Performance and Speed
One of the most noticeable differences between DDR3 and DDR4 RAM is their performance and speed. DDR4 offers significantly higher data transfer rates compared to DDR3.
DDR3: Typically operates at speeds ranging from 800 MHz to 2133 MHz. The data rate is doubled from the base clock speed, hence the term "Double Data Rate."
DDR4: Operates at speeds starting from 2133 MHz and can go up to 4266 MHz or higher. This increase in speed translates to faster data processing and improved overall system performance.
The increased speed of DDR4 RAM allows for better handling of high-performance tasks such as gaming, video editing, and other demanding applications. This makes DDR4 a preferable choice for modern computing environments where speed is crucial.
Latency
While DDR4 RAM offers higher speeds, it also typically has higher latency compared to DDR3. Latency refers to the delay before the transfer of data begins following an instruction for its transfer. DDR4 RAM usually has a higher CAS latency (Column Address Strobe latency) compared to DDR3. However, the higher data transfer rates of DDR4 generally compensate for the increased latency, resulting in overall better performance.
Power Consumption
Another significant difference between DDR3 and DDR4 is power consumption. DDR4 RAM operates at a lower voltage than DDR3, which contributes to energy efficiency and reduced heat generation.
DDR3: Operates at 1.5V (standard) and 1.35V (low voltage, DDR3L).
DDR4: Operates at 1.2V (standard) and can go down to 1.05V (low voltage, DDR4L).
This reduction in voltage not only makes DDR4 more energy-efficient but also enhances the longevity of the memory modules and the system as a whole. For devices that require prolonged battery life, such as laptops and mobile devices, DDR4's lower power consumption is a significant advantage.
Density and Capacity
DDR4 RAM modules are available in higher capacities than DDR3. This means that DDR4 can support more memory per module, which is beneficial for tasks that require a large amount of RAM, such as virtualization, large databases, and extensive multitasking.
DDR3: Typically available in capacities up to 8GB per module.
DDR4: Available in capacities up to 16GB or 32GB per module, with the potential for even higher capacities as technology advances.
This increased capacity is crucial for modern applications and operating systems, which are becoming increasingly memory-hungry.
Compatibility and Architecture
DDR3 and DDR4 are not interchangeable due to differences in their architecture. Each type of RAM has a different number of pins and operates at different voltages, necessitating different motherboard sockets.
DDR3: Has 240 pins.
DDR4: Has 288 pins.
This means that upgrading from DDR3 to DDR4 RAM typically requires a new motherboard that supports DDR4. This can be a significant consideration in the cost and feasibility of upgrading a system.
Conclusion
In summary, DDR4 RAM represents a substantial improvement over DDR3 in terms of speed, power efficiency, and capacity. While DDR3 may still be sufficient for less demanding applications or older systems, DDR4 is the preferred choice for modern computing due to its superior performance and efficiency. When considering an upgrade or building a new system, opting for DDR4 can provide a noticeable boost in performance and future-proof your investment.
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So You Need To Buy A Computer But You Don't Know What Specs Are Good These Days
Hi.
This is literally my job.
Lots of people are buying computers for school right now or are replacing computers as their five-year-old college laptop craps out so here's the standard specs you should be looking for in a (windows) computer purchase in August 2023.
PROCESSOR
Intel i5 (no older than 10th Gen)
Ryzen 7
You can get away with a Ryzen 5 but an intel i3 should be an absolute last resort. You want at least an intel i5 or a Ryzen 7 processor. The current generation of intel processors is 13, but anything 10 or newer is perfectly fine. DO NOT get a higher performance line with an older generation; a 13th gen i5 is better than an 8th gen i7. (Unfortunately I don't know enough about ryzens to tell you which generation is the earliest you should get, but staying within 3 generations is a good rule of thumb)
RAM
8GB absolute minimum
If you don't have at least 8GB RAM on a modern computer it's going to be very, very slow. Ideally you want a computer with at least 16GB, and it's a good idea to get a computer that will let you add or swap RAM down the line (nearly all desktops will let you do this, for laptops you need to check the specs for Memory and see how many slots there are and how many slots are available; laptops with soldered RAM cannot have the memory upgraded - this is common in very slim laptops)
STORAGE
256GB SSD
Computers mostly come with SSDs these days; SSDs are faster than HDDs but typically have lower storage for the same price. That being said: SSDs are coming down in price and if you're installing your own drive you can easily upgrade the size for a low cost. Unfortunately that doesn't do anything for you for the initial purchase.
A lot of cheaper laptops will have a 128GB SSD and, because a lot of stuff is stored in the cloud these days, that can be functional. I still recommend getting a bit more storage than that because it's nice if you can store your music and documents and photos on your device instead of on the cloud. You want to be able to access your files even if you don't have internet access.
But don't get a computer with a big HDD instead of getting a computer with a small SSD. The difference in speed is noticeable.
SCREEN (laptop specific)
Personally I find that touchscreens have a negative impact on battery life and are easier to fuck up than standard screens. They are also harder to replace if they get broken. I do not recommend getting a touch screen unless you absolutely have to.
A lot of college students especially tend to look for the biggest laptop screen possible; don't do that. It's a pain in the ass to carry a 17" laptop around campus and with the way that everything is so thin these days it's easier to damage a 17" screen than a 14" screen.
On the other end of that: laptops with 13" screens tend to be very slim devices that are glued shut and impossible to work on or upgrade.
Your best bet (for both functionality and price) is either a 14" or a 15.6" screen. If you absolutely positively need to have a 10-key keyboard on your laptop, get the 15.6". If you need something portable more than you need 10-key, get a 14"
FORM FACTOR (desktop specific)
If you purchase an all-in-one desktop computer I will begin manifesting in your house physically. All-in-ones take away every advantage desktops have in terms of upgradeability and maintenance; they are expensive and difficult to repair and usually not worth the cost of disassembling to upgrade.
There are about four standard sizes of desktop PC: All-in-One (the size of a monitor with no other footprint), Tower (Big! probably at least two feet long in two directions), Small Form Factor Tower (Very moderate - about the size of a large shoebox), and Mini/Micro/Tiny (Small! about the size of a small hardcover book).
If you are concerned about space you are much better off getting a MicroPC and a bracket to put it on your monitor than you are getting an all-in-one. This will be about a million percent easier to work on than an all-in-one and this way if your monitor dies your computer is still functional.
Small form factor towers and towers are the easiest to work on and upgrade; if you need a burly graphics card you need to get a full size tower, but for everything else a small form factor tower will be fine. Most of our business sales are SFF towers and MicroPCs, the only time we get something larger is if we have to put a $700 graphics card in it. SFF towers will accept small graphics cards and can handle upgrades to the power supply; MicroPCs can only have the RAM and SSD upgraded and don't have room for any other components or their own internal power supply.
WARRANTY
Most desktops come with either a 1 or 3 year warranty; either of these is fine and if you want to upgrade a 1 year to a 3 year that is also fine. I've generally found that if something is going to do a warranty failure on desktop it's going to do it the first year, so you don't get a hell of a lot of added mileage out of an extended warranty but it doesn't hurt and sometimes pays off to do a 3-year.
Laptops are a different story. Laptops mostly come with a 1-year warranty and what I recommend everyone does for every laptop that will allow it is to upgrade that to the longest warranty you can get with added drop/damage protection. The most common question our customers have about laptops is if we can replace a screen and the answer is usually "yes, but it's going to be expensive." If you're purchasing a low-end laptop, the parts and labor for replacing a screen can easily cost more than half the price of a new laptop. HOWEVER, the way that most screens get broken is by getting dropped. So if you have a warranty with drop protection, you just send that sucker back to the factory and they fix it for you.
So, if it is at all possible, check if the manufacturer of a laptop you're looking at has a warranty option with drop protection. Then, within 30 days (though ideally on the first day you get it) of owning your laptop, go to the manufacturer site, register your serial number, and upgrade the warranty. If you can't afford a 3-year upgrade at once set a reminder for yourself to annually renew. But get that drop protection, especially if you are a college student or if you've got kids.
And never, ever put pens or pencils on your laptop keyboard. I've seen people ruin thousand dollar, brand-new laptops that they can't afford to fix because they closed the screen on a ten cent pencil. Keep liquids away from them too.
LIFESPAN
There's a reasonable chance that any computer you buy today will still be able to turn on and run a program or two in ten years. That does not mean that it is "functional."
At my office we estimate that the functional lifespan of desktops is 5-7 years and the functional lifespan of laptops is 3-5 years. Laptops get more wear and tear than desktops and desktops are easier to upgrade to keep them running. At 5 years for desktops and 3 years for laptops you should look at upgrading the RAM in the device and possibly consider replacing the SSD with a new (possibly larger) model, because SSDs and HDDs don't last forever.
COST
This means that you should think of your computers as an annual investment rather than as a one-time purchase. It is more worthwhile to pay $700 for a laptop that will work well for five years than it is to pay $300 for a laptop that will be outdated and slow in one year (which is what will happen if you get an 8th gen i3 with 8GB RAM). If you are going to get a $300 laptop try to get specs as close as possible to the minimums I've laid out here.
If you have to compromise on these specs, the one that is least fixable is the processor. If you get a laptop with an i3 processor you aren't going to be able to upgrade it even if you can add more RAM or a bigger SSD. If you have to get lower specs in order to afford the device put your money into the processor and make sure that the computer has available slots for upgrade and that neither the RAM nor the SSD is soldered to the motherboard. (one easy way to check this is to search "[computer model] RAM upgrade" on youtube and see if anyone has made a video showing what the inside of the laptop looks like and how much effort it takes to replace parts)
Computers are expensive right now. This is frustrating, because historically consumer computer prices have been on a downward trend but since 2020 that trend has been all over the place. Desktop computers are quite expensive at the moment (August 2023) and decent laptops are extremely variably priced.
If you are looking for a decent, upgradeable laptop that will last you a few years, here are a couple of options that you can purchase in August 2023 that have good prices for their specs:
14" Lenovo - $670 - 11th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 512GB SSD
15.6" HP - $540 - 11th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 256GB SSD
14" Dell - $710 - 12th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 256GB SSD
If you are looking for a decent, affordable desktop that will last you a few years, here are a couple of options that you can purchase in August 2023 that have good prices for their specs:
SFF HP - $620 - 10th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD
SFF Lenovo - $560 - Ryzen 7 5000 series, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD
Dell Tower - $800 - 10th-gen i7, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD
If I were going to buy any of these I'd probably get the HP laptop or the Dell Tower. The HP Laptop is actually a really good price for what it is.
Anyway happy computering.
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