thetastytraveller

[thetastytraveller]

  1:30 pm: Hit up the Steam Whistle Brewery for some real Canadian ale 

Truth? We tried to go to the Toronto aquarium and the line was insane so when we saw a brewery across the street we thought, it’s 5 o’clock somewhere and we headed straight for the Stream Whistle Brewery. Upon entering this magical establishment (beer is good, mmkay?) we were given a sample of the brewery’s flagship beer, which obvs made us decide to spend the next few hours sipping on Canadian ale and eating giant pickles.

4 pm: Bike off some of that food and beer and head to Chinatown 

Once our stomachs had consumed enough beer to make the rainy Toronto skies seem much brighter, we started strolling towards Chinatown. We soon realized this was a lot further away than we had thought. Never fear, Toronto bike sharing is here! We jumped on one of the city bikes and rode our way up a slight incline for about twenty minutes (harder than it sounds).

Once we got to Chinatown we were honestly so wiped out from the cycling that we decided to skip the food and just do a bit of shopping instead. My fave buy was a wooden back scratcher, cause who doesn’t need one of those?

6 pm: Chill out in Kensington Market and hang with the locals at Hotbox Coffee House 

Kensington Market was my favorite part of Toronto and I really, really enjoyed the laid back atmosphere and general chillness in this area. As soon as we arrived we wandered around taking tons of photos of all the shops that are run out of what reminded me of San Francisco Bay’s town houses, and obvs we noticed there were several dispensaries too. After a good hour of wandering, we made our way to Hotbox Coffee House, which is a cafe with a lush outdoor seating area in the back where you can smoke the pot you bought at the dispensary down the street (if you’re into that sort of thing). In addition to letting you smoke (weed, not cigarettes), Hotbox Coffee House also has board games, making it the perfect place to while away a few hours whilst waiting for your stomach to catch up with your brain and prepare to eat again.

10 pm: Head home and order some authentic Nepalese dumplings on UberEATS 

As the old saying goes, home is where UberEATS delivers. Now I’m not usually one to recommend you skip exploring a foreign city in order to eat takeout at home, but we were so blown away by the Nepalese food we ordered on UberEATS that I had to add it to my list. We ordered spicy crispy beef and Nepalese momos (lamb dumplings), and the food was delivered piping hot, in under 30 minutes. I’m not a Nepalese food expert but these were the best momos I’ve ever had, and the beef was spicy in a beautiful but not overpowering manner.

Day 2: Exploring Dundas West & eating all the food 

11 am: You’re on holiday, have a cocktail or try a local Canadian ale 

The bars around Toronto are plentiful and extremely welcoming, and we found ourselves chatting with the bartenders and getting city tips in a number of establishments. Do yourself a favor and take the time to have a drink, talk to the locals and just chill while watching the city go by.

Noon: Have a porchetta sandwich from Porchetta & Co.

This is another foodie destination that was recommended by the late Anthony Bourdain, and as opposed to the peameal bacon sandwich, this really did live up to our expectations. Pork crackling and roast stuffed in a hot bun with onions, hot sauce and mustard. Simple. Elegant. Divine.

  1 pm: Head for Toronto City Airport and take the ferry if you can 

We had booked a flight to Boston without realizing we weren’t flying from Pearson International Airport but rather from Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport (which turned out to be a blessing as it’s much easier to get to). Located in the middle of the city, not only was the Airport small and easy to navigate, but the views you get when flying out are unbeatable. When arriving at the airport give yourself enough time to take the ferry across from the mainland as this too is an adventure in itself.

Stay tuned for more updates from my travels around the world!

24 hours munching on delightfully scrumptious treats in Toronto, Canada 1:30 pm: Hit up the Steam Whistle Brewery for some real Canadian ale  Truth? We tried to go to the Toronto aquarium and the line was insane so when we saw a brewery across the street we thought, it's 5 o'clock somewhere and we headed straight for the Stream Whistle Brewery.

[thetastytraveller]

Cafe Central is a French bistro located on Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement in the center of Paris. Right next to the Eiffel Tower, this is a pedestrian street lined with beautiful shops, cafes and grocers, with focus on the best products a foodie could wish for. From one of the best cheese mongers in the city, to an establishment dedicated to selling only the finest wild caught salmon, this is the perfect place to spend a few hours wandering and grazing on a lazy weekend afternoon.

Cafe Central is located about halfway down Rue Cler, and the service is classically Parisian, but friendly. The waiters will go out of their way to make sure you have an exquisite dining experience, but remember that this is Paris and your meal will take time, as it’s not untypical to sit down for two to three hours to enjoy your Saturday lunch.

Since moving to Paris we have been coming here on a regular basis (monthly really), so I do think it’s fair to say that I’m quite the expert when it comes to the Cafe Central menu. They have specials on a daily basis which vary, and are always a treat, but here are the menu staples that you can enjoy any day at this classic bistro on Rue Cler.

1. Escargot XXL

Escargot XXL are traditional French snails served in garlic butter, but these ones are about double as big as the ones you’re probably used to. I didn’t used to be a fan of escargot myself, but after living in France for a few years they’ve now grown on me, and the ones served at Cafe Central are the best I’ve had yet.

2. Smoked salmon blinis with sour cream

Salmon and blinis are a starter many of you may recognize, but what makes Cafe Central’s version stand out is the incredibly fresh salmon which is presented in a delicate and thoughtful manner. Served with sour cream, fresh lemon and dill, the only reason a person wouldn’t like this is if they don’t like fish or salmon.

In which case, they probably should stay away from this appetizer and order the next thing on my list instead.

3. French onion soup

Everyone knows what French onion soup is, but it’s not always easy to find something worth writing about when it comes to a version of the classic French dish in Paris. Cafe Central, however, not only ensures that the onions in the soup are caramelized beyond recognition, and in turn, sweet to the point of tasting close to a dessert, but the cheese and bread crust is something that even Jamie Oliver would have a hard time competing with.

The cheese crust is so well ingrained in the soup bowl that you can’t see any of the savory liquid below it, and it takes a few swats with the spoon before you break through the wall. And once you do, you’ll find yourself greedily wrestling with the strings of cheesy emulsion that are making their way to your deliriously happy mouth. Don’t say I didn’t warn you – this soup is addictive.

4. Confit de Canard

Duck? Good? Duck fat? Good? Duck roasted in it’s own fat, and then served on top of roasted potatoes? Damn good.

And that’s what this classically French dish is really, a simple marriage of a duck and it’s own worst (or best) body part, which funnily enough, becomes a concoction that could be likened to food heaven. Eat it with gusto, or don’t eat it at all.

5. Parmesan risotto with brown butter scallops and rucola 

This is exactly what it sounds like – a beautifully creamy, cheesy risotto topped with flash fried scallops topped with rucola and balsamic reduction. Served with an extra bowl of Parmesan on the side, this meal is the epitome of all that is beautiful about all carb, protein & cheese combinations.

6. The bread – the bread – the bread

The baguette served with your meal at Cafe Central is locally sourced (I believe it comes from the bakery down the street), and it is absolutely out of this world. With the perfect crunch on the outside, and fluffy, light dough on the inside, make sure to save some for the end of your meal, to use to scoop up the soupy remnants of your main dish.

Stay tuned for more food adventures from #thetastytraveller!

The 6 best menu picks at Cafe Central in Paris Cafe Central is a French bistro located on Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement in the center of Paris.

[thetastytraveller]

Destination Java - Part 2

Destination Java – Part 2

Our Javanese road trip continued from Pangandaran Beach to the city of Wonosobo, located high above the clouds in the mist-ridden, and in comparison to the South Java coast, very chilly mountains. There was no air-conditioning in our room, and that’s saying a lot in Indonesia. We decided to take the back roads (which included a boat trip through mangroves and a chance encounter with a woman who…

[thetastytraveller]

What happens when you put a traveller who is always hungry, smack-dab in the middle of one of the foodie capitals of the world? Magic.

Before jetting off on a two week holiday to the Philippines, my partner and I spent last Christmas in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia with my parents and a few friends who live in KL. Because of the sheer number of places we tested in foodie-centric KL, this post is dedicated to the nibbles and bites you can munch your way through in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, including the famous Petaling Street and surrounding area.

Stepping onto Petaling Street is a sensory overload, with vendors selling durian, rambutan, and other beautiful and lush Southeast Asian fruits, while hawkers fry up hot flashes of stir fried flat rice noodles in fiery woks next to groups of relaxed locals munching on roasted Chinese chestnuts and gulping down ice-cold Carlsberg beer.

Char Kwetiau / Char Kuey Teow 

These stir-fried flat rice noodles with pork, chicken, prawns and vegetables (or any combination of meat and vegetables really) are a staple across Southeast Asia, but traditional kwetiau is said to stem from Penang, Malaysia’s foodie capital (quite possibly the world’s, if you believe this post).  Having grown up in Indonesia, I have had many varieties of kwetiau throughout my life, but I must say that the one served in Chinatown at 2 am on a random Monday evening in December was one of the best.

Whether this was the deep and almost sensual charcoal flavour from the well-seasoned and overused wok, or the beer and giddiness of sitting by the side of the road at an hour where most people’s minds are in la-la-land (in whichever context you wish to imagine this), the noodles married beautifully with the pork, chicken and prawns, and I slurped up each and every bite.

2. Cantonese Kwetiau / Chow Fun

So I’m obviously a noodle fan, and this was the first time I tried Cantonese kwetiau, which is a bit like a soupy version of the fried kwetiau. I ate some of it because, well, I take my duties as The Tasty Traveller very seriously, but I simply couldn’t finish the noodle-based concoction as it felt way too slimy and wet for my liking (and not in the good way). The seafood was good, the noodles themselves were good, but when mixed together it just all became a bit strange.

3.Black Hokkien Mee

Hokkien noodles stir-fried in an open fire work with thick, sweet soy sauce, prawns, pork fat and chilli reminded me a bit of char kwetiau, but a much gooier, sweetly condensed version. I had read a lot about this dish before our first nibble on Petaling Street, and to be honest, my initial reaction was not what I expected. The first bite knocked me back with overwhelming sweetness, but as the pork fat rendered with the chilli, it all started to come together quite nicely and before I knew it I was halfway through the dish.

Perfect with beer (like most of the dishes I had in Chinatown).

4. Durian

The smelliest fruit in the world (really!)

Anyone who has travelled or lived in Southeast Asia will be very familiar with durian. And whether you are a hater or a lover of this infamous fruit, you will, undoubtedly have formed some kind of opinion in regards to the smelliest fruit in the world. The skin of the fruit is very much like jackfruit (spiky and thick), but as opposed to it’s less volatile cousin, durian has an odour which can be compared to slowly rotting cheese, or volcanic lava.

Due to the nature of this widely celebrated fruit, durian is banned on airplanes, in hotels, at restaurants, and in most public places. But if you can get over the initial stink, and let yourself have a bite of the gooey, mushy insides, you will be rewarded with a sweet, almost vanilla like flavour, which will surprise and delight you, and quickly turn you from a potential durian-hater to lover.

5.Crispy Roast Pork Belly

It’s common knowledge that the Chinese do pork, and they do it well. Whether it’s ground and mixed inside of beautiful dumplings with chicken broth (like xiao long bao), or simply crisped up over a barbecue, when I eat Chinese food, I always make sure that I order something that oinked in its previous life.

Crispy roast pork belly combines the subtle flavours of pork with  a soft (fat) and crunchy (skin) finish, making your mouth explode in pork-induced fireworks. Served with chilli, soy and rice, this is one of my favourite dishes on earth! Whether it’s served in the Chinese way (as above) or in the Danish way (just the pork meat, fat and crackling with potatoes and gravy), the combination of several parts of pig in your mouth at once is mind-blowing.

Other honourable mentions for eats in KL’s Chinatown (and this list isn’t exhaustive) are:

Hainan Chicken Rice

Nasi Goreng

Nasi Campur

Chee Cheong Fun (Rice Noodle Rolls)

Satay

We arrived in Malaysia with bellies rumbling in excitement, and after several days of feasting on local delights we left the country with bellies purring in pleasure. Look out for an upcoming post on the other foodie delights we ate our way through in Kuala Lumpur!

Terima Kasih Kuala Lumpur, sampai jumpa lagi! 

Stepping onto Petaling Street is a sensory overload, with vendors selling durian, rambutan, and other beautiful and lush Southeast Asian fruits, while hawkers fry up hot flashes of stir fried flat rice noodles in fiery woks next to groups of relaxed locals munching on roasted Chinese chestnuts and gulping down ice-cold Carlsberg beer. What happens when you put a traveller who is always hungry, smack-dab in the middle of one of the foodie capitals of the world? 

[thetastytraveller]

6 Reasons I'm Not Leaving France (Anytime Soon)

6 Reasons I’m Not Leaving France (Anytime Soon)

1. The chateaus  2. The wine 3. The weather  4. The cheese 5. The nature  6. The French 

[thetastytraveller]

I visited Lisbon for a long weekend last summer, and although it may be super cliche to say, I fell in love with absolutely everything about this stunning city by the sea. Portugal’s capital has a really genuine and relaxed vibe, and in the evenings the vibrant energy of the city can be heard through the sounds of the deep and beautiful melancholic sounds of Fado in the old town’s narrow streets, balanced perfectly with locals laughing from rooftops.

So, without further ado, here are my top eight tips for enjoying yourself to the max in Lisbon, Portugal.

1. Stay in an Airbnb

Experience the city like a real Lisbonite, and set yourself up with a cozy Airbnb somewhere near the city center. This will give let you live like a local or like a tourist, depending on what most tickles your fancy. We took advantage of the local restaurants, supermarkets and bars in our area, and felt lucky to see a side of Lisbon that we wouldn’t have visited otherwise. We managed to score ourselves a stay in an architect’s house, which was complete with a back garden where we enjoyed our breakfast in the morning sun and cocktails in the evenings.

2. Eat seafood until you burst – and then have some more 

Lisbon is chock full of amazing seafood, and our daily dose of fresh fish, prawns, crab and other delicacies freshly caught from the sea was definitely the highlight of our trip. When visiting Lisbon, a must-do is going to a Cervejaria, a traditional Portuguese restaurant specialising in either meat or seafood. Be prepared for frantic service and to sit shoulder to shoulder with locals gulping down kilos of fresh fish, cockles, and crab, and get ready to have a lot fun! The seafood is consumed with your hands, and you wear a plastic bib to protect your clothes from the shellfish mania. I had seen an episode of Anthony Bourdain where he visited a Cervejaria before our trip, and as I dipped my sixth salty shrimp into the fresh garlic aioli, and gulped down my ice cold Sagres, I whole heartedly agreed with Bourdain’s Cervejaria recommendation.

We visited O Palacio Restaurante Cervejaria, which was to die for, and I would highly recommend this to anyone who loves seafood, beer, and friendly, down-to-earth Portuguese service.

3.  Head to Cascais for a day

Although we only had a few days in Lisbon, we had heard so many wonderful things about Cascais that we decided to jump on a train after breakfast one day to explore the Portuguese seaside town. It took us less than an hour to get to Cascais from Lisbon, and as we started wandering around the quaint little town, we were met with bursts of flora crawling across beautifully designed houses, and the smell of freshly grilled seafood wafted in the air.

This naturally meant that our attention soon turned to lunch, and after taking a dip in the sea we wandered into town to have a light bite. This quickly turned into a three course meal complete with a cheeky bottle of Portuguese rose wine (obvs) to wash down the beautiful seafood. We finished the meal and wandered back to the beach, where we spent the afternoon reading books, dipping in the warm ocean, and sipping margaritas at at beach side bar.

Grilled king prawns with new potatoes

Red wine poached pear with cinnamon

Freshly grilled octopus with boiled eggs and potatoes

4. Enjoy the sounds of Fado at dusk

Fado is a traditional Portuguese music genre dating back to the 1820s (according to this Wikipedia post), and the melancholic songs are sung in a somewhat opera like manner. Lisbon is full of ‘Fado’ restaurants where you can go and enjoy a traditional dinner whilst listening to these hauntingly deep songs sung with a moving passion. We didn’t make it to a restaurant with Fado music, but were privy to several performances on our wanderings around the city.

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5. Explore the city by foot and check out the amazing tiles!

Lisbon, and Portugal, is known for its tiles. And what would the country be without them? Lisbon is a brilliant blend of old and new, and I adored wandering around the city noticing all the different pieces of meticulous art that decorated many (if not most) of the buildings. I hadn’t been aware of the history of these artistic masterpieces before visiting Portugal, and unsurprisingly they are an Arab influence, dating back to the 13th century. ‘Azulejo’ (meaning colored stones) were used not only as aesthetically pleasing decorations for buildings, but also as a way to control the temperature of houses, keeping them cool in the blistering Mediterranean sun.

6. Talk to the locals

Portuguese people are not only friendly, they are really, really hospitable and open to tourists, in a way that I haven’t felt very often in other European cities. Most of the locals we met spoke fluent English, and everyone had a story to tell and pieces of advice on which restaurants, bars and sights to see.

Posting to my social channels (especially Instagram and Twitter) was also the perfect way to get insider tips, and I quickly met fellow Instagrammers residing in Lisbon who were keen to tell me about their favourite city haunts. They say there are over 365 different types of Bacalhau (cod) dishes in Portugal, and that you could literally eat a different traditional Portuguese version of this fish every day for a year without running out of choices. Upon hearing this (through Instagram), I decided to take on the challenge of trying as many types of Bacalhau as I could on our long weekend, kind of like the Forrest Gump of Cod, if you will. I bought my first tinned Bacalhau as soon as I landed in Lisbon, and managed to try at least five different types on our three day tour. From tinned and salted cod, to cheesy fritters, the best Bacalhau of them all was had at the Museu da Cerveja in downtown Lisbon.

7. Relax and enjoy being next to the ocean

I am inclined to say that Lisbon is one of my favorite cities in the world to wander around aimlessly in. The seafront is a romantic haven which will keep your ears occupied listening to live tunes blending with the gentle splash of waves while your hands nurse your fourth cocktail. The salty breeze speckled our nights with warm balminess which was the perfect respite after a day spent in the warm sun, and we truly enjoyed just sitting by the water, watching the world go by.

Beachside pop-up bars are very popular in Lisbon

Pastel de Nata

Urban gardening is everywhere in this city

8. Check out Time Out Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon

A few years ago the city’s old main market hall was transformed into the foodie haven that is Time Out Mercado da Ribeira Lisbon, which is a HUGE indoor space made up of everything a hungry traveller could dream of: small restaurant stalls serving modern Portuguese food with a twist, innovative cocktail bars to gulp down fresh and fruity concoctions, specialist shops devoted to tinned Portuguese delicacies, a stall dedicated to edible plants and herbs, the list goes on.

We kicked off our snackventures with a traditional duck croquette with an orange compote finish from Cozinha Da Felicidade, which was a glorious mixture of sweet and savoury, with the duck fat marrying nicely with the tart orange dressing. Next up on the list was a steak tip dish with jalapeños and pickled vegetables from the same place, which wasn’t nearly as good as the croquette, and had a bland finish to it. We rounded off our late afternoon snack session by ordering glazed pork belly with sweet potato mash from Marlene Vieira, which was bursting with flavour, but the crackling wasn’t crispy, so that was a bit of a letdown. We may or may not also have had several other croquettes during our foodscapades, but these were not documented.

Glazed pork belly with sweet potato mash

Traditional duck croquette with an orange compote finish

Steak tips with jalapeños and pickled vegetables

And finally, no trip to Portugal would be complete without trying the Pastel de Nata, a traditional Portuguese egg custard tart topped with cinnamon. We didn’t make it to Belem, home of the original Pastel de Nata, but we had one really good flaky goodness alternative at Pastelaria Orion in Lisbon.

Our trip was short, but oh so very, very sweet. Until next time, you beautiful lady by the sea.

Obrigado Lisbon! 

8 ways to have an epic Lisbon adventure I visited Lisbon for a long weekend last summer, and although it may be super cliche to say, I fell in love with absolutely everything about this stunning city by the sea.

[thetastytraveller]

Let’s start with the obvious. One can not go to the Alps, nor France even, without indulging in some of the local regional delicacies. Whether it be a marvelously crunchy, freshly baked walnut loaf with duck pate or a Tartiflette swimming in cheese and lardons, what you eat when on holiday is so inherently important to your vacation pleasure that the effect these calorie bombs may have on your waistline will be long forgotten at your baguette’s first cheesy dip.

Having spent many an evening researching the French town of Annecy before traveling from Paris for the long Easter weekend, I must say that I thought I was beyond prepared for the foodie adventures this small Alp town has to offer. But alas, TripAdvisor may have a plethora of reviews, but the sheer excitement at seeing the cheese, the wine, the fresh produce and everything in between is something no website could prepare me for.

We arrived on a Friday evening and stayed at Hotel des Marquisats, which is about a 20 minute stroll from downtown Annecy. With a balcony room overlooking the lake, we knew we were in for a weekend of supreme relaxation and sporadic gluttony as soon as we pulled up. Cue happy feelings.

The Rhône-Alpes region in France is famous for its cheesy delicacies, and although this wasn’t the prime reason we decided to spend our long weekend in Annecy, by the time we sat down to our first meal it was already painfully obvious that we would be rolling ourselves out of most of the establishments we were lucky to frequent.

#1 – Fondue. Any. Type.  

It’s important to note that there are several varieties of fondue (with mushrooms, without, with three cheeses, with meat) the choice is endless. We decided to stick to the very traditional 3 cheese fondue, with an extra side of charcuterie for added protein. The fondue is made up of 3 local cheeses, cooked with a dry white wine to cut some of the fat. The result is a beautiful cheesy soup which requires you to dip French baguette directly into the warm medley with metal prongs. It’s a bit sadistic, and it’s amazing.

We enjoyed our 3 cheese fondue at La Bastille restaurant, which is situated right on the canal in Annecy’s old town. Although the place doesn’t get great reviews on Trip Advisor, we were pleasantly surprised at not only the quality of the food, but the prices and service were also top notch.

Where?

La Bastille Annecy: Try the Fondue Savoyarde aux 3 Fromages made up of a melted medley of Emmental, Comte, and and Beaufort cheese, served with crusty baguette and green salad. The baked Reblochon cheese (see #8) was also beautiful.

 #2 – Bacon and cheese baguettes (yes, really) 

Because not having time to sit down at a restaurant should not mean that you miss out on the award winning medley of cheese and bread (please see fondue above for more information). This bread is for the wild foodie who’s in a bit of a rush.

Where?

Across from L’Estaminet: Any of the many bakeries around Annecy, but there is one really cute bakery right across from L’Estaminet in old town and they also serve the most amazing walnut tarts with honey, and walnut bread which will still be fresh in the morning and has a beautifully imbalanced walnut to bread ratio. In favor of the nuts.

#3 – Tartiflette 

After moving to France last year I’ve heard many locals gush about the joy of the Tartiflette. In essence this is a baked dish made up of sliced potatoes, cream, lardons and onions topped with heart stopping amounts of cheese and baked in the oven. Traditionally served with a green salad and baguette to mop up the creamy love pools at the bottom of your plate.

C’est extraordinaire!

Where?

Le Ramoneur Savoyard: Along with fondue and raclette, you can have this dish almost anywhere in Annecy. However, I had my Tartiflette at Le Ramoneur Savoyard, which is a super cute little restaurant a view streets away from the hustle and bustle of the canals. The service is friendly and warm, and the food is even more comforting.

This was the Tartiflette with Reblochon cheese and green salad, which came out to be 16€50 (which was around the standard price of a meal in town).

#4 – Mussels (because some people can’t live on cheese and cheese alone) 

There comes a time in any cheese lover’s life when their palate needs a change. For my significant other this came on day two of our Annecy adventure, and so he ordered Spanish inspired mussels with chorizo, prawns and garlic. In his words it was a beautiful foodie dance of epic Spanish & French proportions.

Where?

L’Estaminet:This was right across from the bakery where you could buy Bacon and Cheese baguettes, and we had been eyeing this restaurant on the Saturday when the weather was amazing. We walked past it several times, but with each hour the place only seemed to get more busy, and our impatience pushed us to try another restaurant that day. However, on the Sunday the weather had turned, meaning L’Estaminet finally had a few available tables (outdoors, in the cold), so we merrily sat ourselves down to give the place a try.

The Moules Les Madrilènes were cooked with white wine, onions, shallots, garlic, chorizo, Spigol and prawns, and were served with beautifully cooked french fries, for around 17€00.

#5 – Raclette meets Tartiflette 

If the old saying of you are what you eat were true then I’d expect many French people to walk around with heads shaped as Comte or Brie. This analysis leads me to conclude that the saying isn’t true, and so my cheese induced Annecy adventures continued with this mix of Tartiflette with spicy sausage and raclette melted cheese on top. Mon dieu 😄

Where?

L’Estaminet: As my boyfriend enjoyed his mussels and frites, I continued the epic culinary cheese adventure with this Tartiflette complete with sausage and raclette cheese melted on top. Served with fresh bread (which was much lighter and fluffier than the other baguettes we were served), this meal was extremely hearty, a bit spicy, and probably not the best base for walking around the city all day. But I did it, I survived, and although we ended up hanging out at a pub for a few hours after this meal, I put that down to the rain, not the creamy cheese gain.

#6- Steak 

After a three day tour of Annecy’s local delights we decided to take a break and head to a steakhouse. I ordered a beautiful, 200 gram Pepper Beef steak with a side of creamed spinach and a cheeky glass of wine (because France). My boyfriend had an order of ribs with barbecue sauce and was very pleased with his order. There was no cheese in sight.

Where?

Le Wyn: A steakhouse a bit outside of Annecy center, this restaurant reminded us of an American barbecue joint, complete with cow decorations and friendly, laid-back staff. The meat was cooked with respect and love, and the portions were perfect for an indulgent carnivorous midday excursion.

The 200 g Rumpsteak  was served with homemade bearnaise sauce and salad for 18€00.

#7 – Fusion Cheese Sandwiches 

Fancy some Tartiflette but don’t want to miss the last thirty minutes of the market? Have a Tartiflette sandwich! Craving Raclette but need to catch a bus? Have a Raclette sandwich!

(I am in no way endorsed nor connected to any Tartiflette nor Raclette sandwich establishments in Annecy – I am just truly very excited by this fusion sandwich invention).

Where?

Across from The Captain Pub: This sandwich place was right across from Annecy’s cutest pub (in my opinion) and it seemed very fitting to build up your appetite with a few pints of good ale in the rustic pub before heading across the street to indulge your senses in a raclette sandwich.

#8- Baked Reblochon–cheese served with ham, potatoes & salad

This was the first meal we had in Annecy, and was basically baked Reblochon cheese served with all the mountainous staples you could dream of. Smoked ham, boiled potatoes, green salad, pickled onions and cornichons all paired with crusty baguette and washed down with a beautiful Cotes du Rhone was truly an epic way to lay the foundation for our Annecy culinary adventures.

Mountain food and mountain mood = Perfect attitude

Where?

La Bastille Annecy: Same place we had the fondue (see above), the Reblochon Pane et assortiment de Charcuterie came in at 19€90.

#9- Savoy Burger with Reblochon cheese

I call this a Savoy Mountain Burger. Cause if you’re in the mood for a classic meal like a cheeseburger with fries then why not add some melted Reblochon cheese, caramelized onions, and sweet pickles on top of artisan Marmillon bread?

Where?

Le Ramoneur Savoyard: This was the same place I had the Tartiflette with Reblochon cheese and green salad, whilst my boyfriend had the Savoie Burger with Reblochon cheese and fries for 17€50.

——–

Annecy is a beautiful place, and although we only had a few days there I am already planning a longer visit for next summer where we spend at least a week exploring the region and its delights in depth. The tiny cobbled streets lined up against turquoise canals and maroon and duck egg colored houses, all leaning up against the snowy mountain capped range make for a stunning setting for a weekend getaway.

 A bientôt Annecy!

               9 (mostly cheesy) things to eat in Annecy, France Let's start with the obvious. One can not go to the Alps, nor France even, without indulging in some of the local regional delicacies.

[thetastytraveller]

Au Revoir London!

“A man of ordinary talent will always be ordinary, whether he travels or not; but a man of superior talent will go to pieces if he remains forever in the same place.” – Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

Moving to a new country is kind of like transgressing backwards in time, to a period in which your every notion was based on learning the basics.

Facing the world just as a child does, with wonder,…

[thetastytraveller]

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” – Ernest Hemingway

Paris, oh Paris! I must admit that before visiting this glorious, beautiful, friendly, foodie haven, I had the misconception that I wouldn’t be a fan of the French capital.

But oh, how wrong I was! The sights, sounds, nibbles, licks, gulps and sheer genuineness that Paris so lightly holds in esteem means that you will be met with a new surprise and impression around each street corner as you mosey from one arrondissement to the next.

My boyfriend moved to Paris in September of this year, so we headed over to check out the city for a long weekend in late August. We stayed in the 15th district and from here we wandered into the welcoming arms of what I suspect will quickly become one of my favorite cities.

In an urban playground which is overflowing with everything from French bistros and fromageries, along with historical sights, to gorgeous art galleries and well-priced wine bars and patisseries, where does a first timer in Paris begin? As you can probably tell from the food-centric words I have chosen to begin my ramblings, part, no, most, of the reason I can confidently say that I madly, truly, deeply falling in love with Paris is the city’s gastronomy.

As I arrived by Eurostar from London very late Friday night, I began my Parisian foodventure on Saturday morning, with a classically French breakfast. The delicate, crisp and warm buttery croissant melted in my mouth almost like a mousse, just in time for my pack-a-punch espresso to soak up the last crumbly remains.

Now the French take their food seriously, and this means that unless you unluckily wander into a tourist trap, the cuisine you are served at most Parisian estaurants will almost certainly be of a satisfactory standard, if not higher. The patisseries that lay hidden down narrow alleys give away their location with the sweet waft of fresh quiche lorraine and strawberry tarts that fills the cool, crisp morning air.

The sight of a local walking down the capital’s distinctly wide and grand boulevards with a baguette takes me aback at first, but my boyfriend is quick to point out that there are many a-citizen briskly rushing home with not one, not two, but three or four giant bread loaves in hand.

This really is my kinda place.

Markets: Marche

Parisian markets really do deserve all the praise they get, and probably could do with being hyped up even more, in my foodie opinion. Living in London, I have a fair share of markets on my doorstep, but there is something different about French markets, something more organic, more traditional, more raw.

Perhaps it is the plethora of fresh produce that meets a visitor’s eyes: freshly picked chantarrelles call out longingly next to giant organically farmed tomatoes of all colors, not to mention the freshly shucked clams and boeuf bourgignon tempting growling stomachs and eyes to instant indulgence.

To begin our market crawl we head to Marche Raspail, an organic market with the most amazing variety of fresh produce and treats, only open a few times a week. The abundance of cheese, charcuterie, fresh seafod, vegetables and fruits had a profound effect on the gastronomer in me, as I inwardly began to joyfully weep and marvel at my first experience with such a wonderful produce playground.

I could feel it in my bones. This was the beginning of something new. Something greater and (to be honest) probably quite a bit more expensive, than my Aldi and Lidl days. A world in which a trip to the market on Sunday morning would bear fruit in tender lamb stews with honey glazed carrots and fennel in the evening, served after an ice-cold platter of fresh oysters had been devoured by my local Parisian foodie friends.

My heart was growing, as was my bank adviser’s blood pressure, and as I continued to wander past stall after stall of delicious delicacy I had an almost “coming home” like feeling, almost as if I knew Paris was one of those places I would always belong.

And all this after just fifteen minutes at a market.

We tried to hold back with our gluttony, seeing as we had just had a breakfast of croissants and coffee, and were looking forward to many a feast later in the day, and, knowing us, well into the night. Our discipline was no match to the savory parcels of happiness that greeted us at every seller however, and we gave into temptation quicker than you can say Voila! 

We shared a courgette quiche, was not as good as the quiche lorraine we would later eat at a patisserie close to the Eiffel Tower.  But it was still definitely worth a mention, with a crumbly and rich crust; the sweetness of the vegetable a nice contrast to the hearty base. We didn’t try the tomato quiche, although I am sure it was stunning, as there were only 2 left when we made our pit-stop at around 12:30 p.m.

Bakeries: Patisseries

It is a global truth that Paris is home to some of the best baked goods this side of heaven. With the aforementioned baguettes reigning the streets like starchy soldiers, a trip to France would not be complete without several trips to the local patisserie.

As a curious and almost always hungry globetrotter, I made no attempts at hiding the fact that I was very much planning on visiting several of these carb-laden establishments on my short weekend trip.

The first place we frequented was a small, but busy bakery not far from Paris’ most recognized landmark, the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement. The shop windows greeted sweet fanatics with displays made of pure chocolate, cleverly reproducing one of the world’s most well recognized sights, La Dame de Fer, the city’s very own Iron Lady.

Hiding behind the chocolatey masterpiece lay every type of pastry you could imagine, from beautifully colored macaroons, to freshly baked pain au chocolates and creamy eclairs.

We chose to share a chocolate eclair and a classic quiche lorraine, starting with the latter to tingle and tease our salivating taste buds with the savory blend of smoked ham lardons and creamy cheese. The quiche was delicate, extremely crumbly (but not in a falling to bits manner), buttery and rich, and was the perfect base for the creamy, fluffy, savory, slightly salty (those lardons are essential) and altogether exquisite filling. As I took bite after bite of the quiche I reveled in the simplicity of this classic pie, a reminder that complex does not always equate to better.

On to dessert.

The chocolate eclair had a crunchy exterior which gave way to a molten lava like cream inviting us to gasp at what lay before us. We devoured the sweet pastry as if it were our last, and promised each other that this was definitely only the beginning of our romantic rendezvouses with this particular patisserie.

Now if only I could remember the name of the place.

For Guardian’s top 10 Paris patisseries, check out this link. Stay tuned for more of my Parisian escapades in upcoming posts!

Merci beaucoup!

Paris: Let the (foodie) love affair begin "If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."

[thetastytraveller]

I spent a few days in the Cotswolds with my family this past week, going from one small village to the next in search of elusive traditional British pub grub, cozy Bed and Breakfasts with quintessentially English breakfast fry ups and the best ale this side of the Thames.

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Before delving into my British adventure, it’s important to explain a little about the Cotswolds, as I had honestly never heard of this region before moving to London last year. The Cotswolds is an area in south central England, a few hours drive from London, or if taking the train from the city, an hour and fifteen minutes journey from Paddington Station. Making up the Cotswolds are many small towns and villages, stretching across approximately 25 miles (40 km) horizontally and 90 miles (145 km) vertically. Made up of rolling hills, this region is known for its Jurassic limestone which has created a “grassland habitat rare in the UK“, and which also lends a hand to the local stone, the yellow Cotswold stone. In many of the pictures here you will be able to see the yellow brick houses made up of this golden mineral.

Day 1: Painswick

We visited on a long weekend, and only made it to a few villages in Gloucestershire, namely Painswick, Fairford, Rodmarton and Cirencester. Taking the train to Stroud, my family came to pick me up in from the station and we drove directly to Painswick as it was raining, to check into a very cute B&B, The Falcon Hotel Painswick.

Complete with a resident cat.

As evening was upon us, and the weather a tad disagreeable we decided to go straight to dinner at the restaurant within the Inn, and what a treat it turned out to be! The menu was innovative, with traditional, seasonal English ingredients served with a modern twist, and at extremely reasonable prices to boot. The dining hall was pretty full, but we had booked a table with the receptionist / bartender and were brought straight to our table, with a bottle of Grey Goose vodka as the reserved sign.

I was a little disappointed when the waitress took away the bottle as we sat down, but this was probably for the best. Wait scratch that, it was for the best.

We decided to split two starters between the three of us, settling on one of the specials of the day,  a salad of melon served with coconut, pecan nuts, raspberry sorbet and chili sauce. This was absolutely divine, and the young fresh coconut and fresh sorbet made the appetizer seem almost dessert like, with the chili pushing it towards a savory dish nonetheless (picture below). The other starter we chose was a parsnip and potato soup, served with warm baguette, which was also very tasty, but nothing out of the usual.

My dad decided to have a chicken and corn pie, which he said was good, but nothing to write home about. I had a bite and thought it was just perfect, as it is only fair to note that a traditional English pie is not something oozing with spice and tangy flavours, but rather a warm, comfort food type of meal which goes perfectly with an ice cold brew.

My mom settled on one of the a’la carte choices, a delectable pan fried sea bream served with tomato ratatouille. Fresh, light and with a whole load of flavour, she was definitely a happy camper throughout dinner.

I chose one of the specials, which as a salmon lover I couldn’t resist: Salmon with horseradish and smoked salmon crust with asparagus and tarragon cream.

Excuse my French, but ooh la’ la’!!!

It was, in three words:

Zesty.

Exquisite.

Magnifique.

We rounded off dinner with a glass of red wine and some scotch and before I knew it magical Cotswold elves were dancing in my head, singing songs of spectacularly quaint and cozy English inns and food that would put Gordon Ramsey to shame.

We woke up to one of the most hyggelige (cozy, cute, quaint, snuggly, warm, delightful) breakfasts I’ve had in a long time with a small table set up for guests to serve themselves yoghurt, fruit and berries, granola and a variety of cereals, milk, and orange as well as blackcurrant juice (my favorite)!

Next to the breakfast buffet was a black board with various warm breakfast dishes that could be made to order, including a traditional English fry up and scrambled eggs with salmon.

Oh and a French press of coffee for each guest, might I add. What more could anyone ask for?

We meandered around Painswick for a few hours after breakfast, taking in the views and the old town feel this village has to offer. Having been on Trip Advisor to see if there were any restaurants in the town that had been recommended, we stumbled upon two, the Patchwork Mouse cafe and Oliva’s. Deciding we wanted a little more than coffee and cake we settled on the latter, an Italian style bistro and deli.

I had a prawn salad which, to be honest, had so many prawns I could barely eat them all (although…. I did), and my parents split a ham and cheese panini with oregano, served with a side salad. We were all content and pleasantly full after our quick lunch, and ready to take on Fairford, another Cotswold town where we would spend the night.

Day 2: Fairford and Cirencester

Having moved on from one small town to the next, we settled in at The Bull Hotel in Fairford for two nights of R&E (rest and exploration). The first evening we went to a country pub for steak night, which, as you can probably guess, consisted of steak with chips (fries to all you yanks) and peas. Classic, standard, British pub grub. I, needless to say, washed down my 5 star meal with a pint of Carling, one of my go to beers after having settled in the UK.

We woke in the morning to another English breakfast fry up, which, to be honest wasn’t what I was really in the mood for. I never thought I’d say this but all I really wanted was a bit of fruit and some yoghurt.

First world problems ey?

The day took us out of Fairford and to Rodmarton, a small town in the Cotswolds where my father’s ancestors, the Prouty’s descended from. We went to see the local church and poked around the village a bit, with my dad oohing and aahing at the fact that his great-great-great-great-great-great grandfather had lived there. I must say his excitement was contagious and I also found myself dreaming myself back to yonder times, where smartphones and internet were obsolete and people were born, grew up, and died in the same small town. Whether this is something I am envious of is another story.

Cirencester: Cornish pastys, cider and a classic English town!

Cirencester, also known as the Queen of the Cotswalds, is larger than Painswick, with a whopping 19,000 residents and  84 restaurants on Trip Advisor, and it really should be on everyone’s to see list when visiting the Cotswolds.  Nestled between a medieval church (which looks just like what you would imagine Cinderella’s castle to look like like) and brick tea houses lie cute little boutique shops, galleries, restaurants, coffee shops and the like. Seeing as we were spending a few days in Fairford, we drove to Cirencester twice, giving us a chance to really explore the high street and surrounding area, as well as try out two local restaurants for lunch.

The first day we dined at The Fleece restaurant, which serves traditional English food, with a twist (see a theme here?). I opted for a Chicken Caesar Salad with a poached egg, and my parents both had open faced smoked salmon sandwiches with boiled eggs and avocado, and both options were light, delicious, and just what the local Cotswolds doctor would have ordered, I’m sure.

On the second day we went to the Bear Inn restaurant, right at the start of Cirencester High Street. The food here was tasty, but service was slow and I wouldn’t recommend this to anyone looking to consume a meal within an hour of ordering it. Yes, it was that slow.

I ordered a chicken breast with truffle oil mashed potatoes and mushroom cream sauce, while my partner had a vegetarian lasagne with wild mushrooms and spinach. Both meals were better looking on paper than in real life. Shame.

The ultimate British nibbles n’tipples: Cider and cornish pasty

What would a trip to the English countryside be without tasting a local cider or two? An embarrassment at best! Although I didn’t take pictures of the different ciders I had on tap, the two bottled ciders below were truly divine!

We bought a few variations of cider to try at home and both were dry, easy to drink, and had a really nice fresh apple flavour. I truly do prefer these ciders to the sweeter, almost juice-like concoctions often sold on the mainstream drinks market.

Seeing as my parents were visiting from Asia, we couldn’t really drive all the way to the Cotswolds for a real English break without having some traditional nibbles n’ tipples from the region, now could we?

Having never tried a Cornish pasty, my dad and I ventured into buying a few mini ones and sharing them. We tried an onion and cheese pasty, a traditional beef one, and a pork and apple pasty to round out our tasting platter. I must say the cheese and onion one was the one that I will remember with most fondness

Quintessentially English. Quintessentially divine.

West Cornwall Pasty Company.

Where meat and savory fillings meets the ultimate pastry, in a mouth watering culmination of flavours.

Our trip was a short, but sweet one, and the Cotswolds has definitely earned itself a spot on my ‘already-visited-but-still-on-the-bucket-list’ list.

The cozy Cotswolds: A step back in time I spent a few days in the Cotswolds with my family this past week, going from one small village to the next in search of elusive traditional British pub grub, cozy Bed and Breakfasts with quintessentially English breakfast fry ups and the best ale this side of the Thames.

[thetastytraveller]

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