Indeed. Okay, no hate to white dresses here, but hasn't it been a little played out? After all, history is on our side. While white wedding dresses certainly existed before Queen Victoria, the theme still perseveres today to the point of boredom.
Take this gown from 1894. Between that bodice, the taffeta, the lace, and those absolutely over-the-top gigot sleeves, I'm in heaven. With the right hat and flowers, what look that would be coming down the aisle! Plus, you could always use it again later, you know, if things didn't turn out.
That gorgeous blue is, indeed, the product of aniline dyes (which the museum so nicely points out). Though they weren't uncommon by the time, they were still costly and impressive to behold.
Wedding dress, 1894, Wales, maker unknown. Gift of Miss C Rothwell, 1982. CC BY-NC-ND 4.0. Te Papa (PC002548) - Museum of New Zealand.
So, this is the other Moulin Rouge! This one is a Toulouse-Lautrec biopic starring Jose Ferrer, and I confess that I didn't even know it existed until I started looking up the academy awards. It's quite the visual feast! I particularly liked this recreation of a dress worn by Jane Avril in one of Toulouse-Lautrec's most famous depictions of her. The poster doesn't show a lot of details of the dress, due largely to the pose and the angle; so the designer, Marcel Vertès, did a good job of interpreting it.
Her bonnet is particularly interesting. The high crown would have been very old-fashioned for the 1890s, and the sort of wooly texture of it is very unusual (which is to say, probably a Hollywood invention). The orange and black feathers, as well as the black tie under the chin, are very true to the original art.
Behold, bone silk satin and chemical lace combine to make one stellar gown from 1893. And with short sleeves! That's rare to see.
What is chemical lace? Well, it's one of the ways we used to make machine-made lace that included burning way embroidery to make lace. Though it was faster than making lace by hand, it was a pretty caustic business for everyone involved. As a result, it's mostly fallen out of favor for other machine-made options.
This dress looks to me like a half-mourning gown, especially considering that the beads are all jet. Hard to say for certain. But I love bone silk, it's that neutral white that's almost pink, and with the black lace against it, it's just stunning.
This movie is set in the early 1890s, and we can see that the bustle of the 1880s has disappeared, while the large puffed sleeves haven't appeared yet. The "tassel" trim around the waist is a bit odd, as is the asymmetrical brown stripe down the side of the skirt, but I'll assume they're based on some kind of period example. I do like the draped epaulet effect at the shoulders, with the little tassels to finish it off, and the hat ties everything together nicely.
Getting witchy with it at a private cast and crew screening for my latest film Damned Supper. From the waist up I made everything, the vest and shirtwaist were of the 1890s variety using a couple Black Snail patterns.
As sleepless nights continued, Dianora faced the tribulations of her pregnancy, whilst Gianluca seemingly lived in his own world of career jargon. The poor girl became haunted with all such emotions and sought consolation from her husband, and yet she found him, awake as she, with a glass of wine as he finally concluded his work day, without an ounce of sympathetic conversation offered to her. Of course, Dianora loved Gianluca but her physical woes altered her as irritated and melancholic, discovering that Gianluca’s blissfulness could only enrage her on account of her own pains.
However, with such heightened emotions of spite, finally came calmness with the swiftness of Gianluca’s apology. He did not become defensive, rather taking note of his wife’s dismay, for this time he realised fighting for his pride was not worth Dianora’s suffering. As each day went on, their child grew, but as did the ups and downs between the two of them; as usually, Dianora could entertain herself when Gianluca was working, she was now but confined to their home, not bothering to dress, nor change from her undergarments. Thus, her loneliness could only consolidate the pain her body was inflicting on her.
Yet, despite all this, Gianluca’s light-hearted, and poorly timed, jest of her mother-in-law was still able to make her smile.